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A HANDBOOK 

FOR 


TRAVELLERS ON THE CONTINENT. 


NOTICE. 


This Edition of the Handbook has been subjected to a careful and thorough, 
revision. The Editor trusts that the imperfections and errors will he found 
to have been considerably diminished. His own personal rectification of mis¬ 
takes and omissions has been most materially aided by the communications of 
numerous and obliging correspondents, many of them personally unknown to 
him, to whom he takes this opportunity of returning his acknowledgments. 
He begs, at the same time, to repeat his request that travellers who may in the 
use of the Handbook detect any faults or omissions which they can correct 

A " " 

from personal knowledge , will have the kindness to mark them down on the spot, 
with the date when they are made , and communicate to him a notice of the 
same, favouring him at the same time with their names—addressed to the care 
of Mr. Murray, Albemarle Street. The Editor ventures to remind his corre¬ 
spondents that by such communications they are not merely furnishing the means 
of improving the Handbook, but are contributing to the benefit, information, 
and comfort of future travellers. 

*** No attention can be paid to letters from innkeepers in praise of their 
own houses; and the postage of them is so onerous that they cannot be 
received. 

Caution to Travellers. —The introduction into England of foreign pirated 
Editions of the works of British authors, in which the copyright subsists, is 
totally prohibited by Act of Parliament. Travellers should therefore bear in 
mind that even a single copy is contraband, and is liable to seizure at the English 
Custom-house. 

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tinent, under pretext of procuring recommendations and favourable notices 
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to him. All those, therefore, who put confidence in such promises, may rest 
assured that they will be defrauded of their money without attaining their 



A 


HANDBOOK FOR TRAVELLERS 

ON 

THE CONTINENT: 


BEING A GUIDE TO 

HOLLAND, BELGIUM, PRUSSIA, NORTHERN GERMANY, AND 
THE RHINE FROM HOLLAND TO SWITZERLAND. 


TOJjj pap au& J)Iam 

i 'S'trw-A., ^ w* 


SEVENTEENTH EDITION , CORRECTED. 


o 1 
) ) d 




-- ' 

LONDON: 

JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET. 



PARIS: A. & W. GALIGNANI AND CO.; XAYPER AND BOYVEAU. 
LEIPZIG: BROCKIIAUS. NEW YORK: WILEY. 

1870. 





The Eight of Translation is reserved. 


TIIE ENGLISH EDITIONS OF MURRAY’S HANDBOOKS MAY BE OBTAINED OF THE 

FOLLOWING AGENTS :— 


Germany , Holland , and Belgium. 


} 


AIX-LA- 
CHAPELLE 
AMSTERDAM’ 
ANTWERP '. 
BADEN-BADEN 
BERLIN . 
BRUSSELS 

CARLSRUHE . 
COLOGNE. 
DRESDEN 
FRANKFURT . 
GRATZ . 

THE HAGUE . 
HAMBURG . 
HEIDELBERG. 


I. A. MAYER. 

J. MULLER.—W. KIRBERGER. 
MAX. KORNICKEK. 

D. R. MARX. 

ASHER. 

MUQUARDT. — KIESSLING 
& CO. 

A. BIELEFELD. 

GUEVEN.—NELTE & CO. 
ARNOLD. 

C. JUGEL. 

LEUSCHNER A LUBENSKY. 
NIJHOFF A CO. 

MAUKE SOHNE. 

MOHR. 


KISSINGEN 
LEIPZIG . 
LUXEMBOURG 
MANNHEIM 

MUNICH . . 

NURNBERG . 
PESTH . 

PRAGUE . 
ROTTERDAM . 
STUTTGART . 
TRIESTE . . 

VIENNA . 
WIESBADEN , 


% 


C. JUGEL. 

BROCKHAUS.—DURR. 

IIUCK.- 

ARTARIA A FONTAINE.— 
LOFFLER.—KOTTER. 
LITERARISCH-ARTISTISCHE 
ANSTALT.—I. PALM. 
SCHRAG—ZEISER. 

H ARTLEBEN.—G.H EC KEN AST. 
—OSTERLAMM.—RATH. 
CALVE. 

KRAMERS.—PETRI. 

P WPFP 

MUNSTER.—COEN. 

C. GEROLD.— BRAUMULLEK, 
KREIDEL. 


BASLE . 
BERNE . 
COIRE 

CONSTANCE . 
GENEVA . 


LAUSANNE . 
LUCERNE. 


BOLOGNA 
FLORENCE . 
GENOA . 

LEGHORN 
LUCCA . 
MANTUA. 
MILAN . 


MODENA. 
NAPLES . 
PALERMO 


AMIENS . 
ANGERS . 
AVIGNON 
AVRANCHES . 
BAYONNE 
BORDEAUX . 

BOULOGNE . 
BREST . 
CAEN 

CALAIS . 
CANNES . 

CHERBOURG . 
DIEPPE . 
DINANT . 
DOUAI 

DUNKERQUE . 
GRENOBLE . 
HAVRE . 

LILLE 
LYONS . 

MARSEILLES . 


GIBRALTAR . 
LISBON . 


S T. PETERS¬ 
BURG. 

Malta. 

MUIR. 


Switzerland. 


H. GEORG.—H. AMBERGER. 
DALP.—JEUT & REINERT. 
GRUBENMANN. 

MECK. 

H. GEORG_DESROGIS.— 

CHERBULIEZ.—MONROE.— 
GHISLETTY. 

T. ROUSSYw 
F. KAISER. 


NEUCHATEL . GERSTER. 
SCHAFFHAUSEN IUJRTER. 

SOLEURE. . JENT. 

ST. GALLEN . HUBER. 

ZURICH . • H. FUSSLI A CO.—MEYER 

& ZELLER. 

H. F. LEUTHOLD, Post- 
etragge. 


Italy. 


MARSIGLI & ROCCHl.j 
GOODBAN. 

GRONDONA & CO.-ANTOINE 
BEUF. 

MAZZAJOLI. 

F. BARON. 

NEGRETTI. 

ARTARIA. — DUMOLARD. 


PARMA 
PISA . 
PERUGIA 
ROME 

SIENA 

TURIN 


FRERES.—G. BRIGOLA. 
L. RONCHI. 

VINCENZI & ROSSI. 

DO RANT. 

PEDONE. 


VENICE . 
VERONA . 


. J. ZANGHIERI. 

. NISTRI.—JOS. VANNUCCI11. 

. VINCENZ. BARTELL1. 

. SPITHOVER.—PIALE.— 
MONALDINI. 

. ONORATO PORRI. 

. MAGGI.—L. BEUF.—MA¬ 
RI F/rri.—BOCC A FRERES. 
. MONSTER. — COEN.— 
MEINERS. 

. H. F. MONSTER.—MEINERS. 


France. 


CARON 

HARASS E'. 

CLE’MENT ST. JUST. 

AN FRAY. 

JAYMEBON.—LASSERRE. 

CHAUMAS.—MULLER.—SAU- 
VAT.—FERET. 

WATEL.—MF.RRIDEW, 

HEBERT. 

BOISARD. — LEGOST. — CLE- 
RISSE'. 

RIGAUX CATJX.' 

BARBERY FRERES.— 
ROBANDY. 

Mllk. LECOUFFLET. 

MARAIS. 

COSTE. . 

JACQUART.—I.EMALE. 

VANDENBUSSCIIK. 

VF.LLOT ET COMP. 

BOURDIGNON.-FOUCHER.— 
Mmb. BUYS. 

BE'GHIN. 

AYNE' FILS.—SCHEURING.— 
ME'RA. 

CAMOIN FRERES.— 
MEUNIER. 


METZ 

MONTPELLIER 
MULHOUSE . 
NANCY . 
NANTES . 

NICE 

ORLEANS. 

PARIS 

PAU . 

PERPIGNAN . 
REIMS 

ROCHEFORT . 
ROUEN . 
SAUMUR . 

ST. ETIENNE . 
ST. MAI.O. 

ST. QUENTIN . 
STRASBURG . 

TOULON . 
TOULOUSE 
TOURS . 
TROYES . 


ROWSWELL 
MATT. LEWTAS. 


Spain and Portugal. 

I MADRID . 

I MALAGA . 

Russia. 


MRS. WATKIN.—WOLFF. 


MOSCOW . W. 
ODESSA . 


WARION. 

LEVALLE. 

RISLER. 

GONICT. 

PETIPAS. —POIRIER LEGROS. 
—ANDRE'. 

BARBERY FRERES.—JOUGLA. 
GATINEAU.—PESTY. 
GALIGNANI. — XAVIER AND 
BOYVEAU. 

LA FON. 

JULIA FRERES. 

BRISSART BINET.— 
GEOFFROY.—GIRET. 
BOUCARD. 

LEBRUMENT.—HAULARD. 
GAULTIER BRIE'RE. 
DELARUE. 

HUE. 

DOLOY. 

TREUTTEL ET WIIRTZ.— 

G RUCKER—DERI VAUX. 
MONGE ET VILLAMUS. 
GIMET & COTELLE. 
GEORGET. 

LALOY.—DUFEY ROBERT. 


DURAN —BAILL1ERE 
FR. DE MOYA. 


GAUTIER—DEUBNER—LANG. 
CAMOIN FRERESa 


Ionian Islands. Constantinople. Greece. 

CORFU, J. W. TAYLOR. WICK. ATHENS, A NAST. 







PREFACE. 



The Guide Books which preceded the Handbooks were for the most part 
either general descriptions compiled by persons not acquainted with the 
spots, and therefore imperfect and erroneous, or local histories, written 
by residents who did not sufficiently discriminate between what is peculiar 
to the place, and what is not worth seeing, or may he seen equally well 
or to greater advantage somewhere else. They were often mere reprints 
of works published many years before, by no means corrected or brought 
down to the day; and whether accurate or not originally, are become, 
from the mere change which each year produces, faulty and antiquated. 
The principle upon which the Handbooks are constructed is that of 
obtaining the information on the spot, and not from books only. 

The writer of the Handbook has endeavoured to confine himself to 
matter-of-fact descriptions of what ought to he seen at each place, and is 
calculated to interest an intelligent English traveller, without bewildering 
his readers with an account of all that may be seen. 

This volume is so arranged as to be fitted for the use of the English 
traveller: it is complete in itself as far as it goes, and is intended to pre¬ 
clude the necessity of resorting to any other Guide Book in the countries 
which it professes to describe. 

Should the book be found to possess any superiority over others of its 
class, it is because it is based upon a personal knowledge of the countries 
described; since those routes which have not been travelled over by the 
author himself have, with very few exceptions, been revised by friends 
to whom they are actually known. 

That such a work can be faultless is impossible. The mere progress 
of time and march of improvements necessarily introduce errors. The 
author has taken pains to correct this by careful and continual revision ; 
the effect of which may be seen by comparing every new edition with those 
preceding it. He throws himself on the indulgence of his readers, to 
excuse inaccuracies ; and he most particularly requests all who make use of 
it to favour him by transmitting, through his publisher, a notice of any 
mistakes or omissions which they may discover. The blunders of the 




vi 


PREFACE. 


author of a { Tour on the Continent,’ published for the edification of 
the public at home, may escape detection; but a book of this kind, 
every word of which is liable to be weighed and verified on the spot, 
is subjected to a much more severe test and criticism. What Dr. Johnson 
said of Dictionaries is also applicable to Guide Books:—“ They are like 
watches ; the worst is better than none—the best cannot be expected to go 
quite true.” 

The writer begs to express his acknowledgments to numerous friends 
who have favoured him with notes and corrections. 


CONTENTS 


INTRODUCTION. 

Page 

Information which may be of use before leaving England . . . ix 

Skeleton Tours. Time required from London to the chief cities of the 

Continent . xxviii 

Tables of Foreign Measures and Money ..... xxxv 

SECT. I.—HOLLAND. 

/ 

Introductory Information.. 

Routes.24 

i 

SECT. II.—BELGIUM. 

Introductory Information.91 

Routes.104 

SECT. III.—GERMANY. 

General Information.213 

i 

SECT. IV.—PRUSSIA.—NORTHERN GERMANY.—THE RHINE. 

Introductory Information.232 

Routes.236 

SECT. V.—PRUSSIA, continued— MECKLENBURG.—HANOVER.— 
BRUNSWICK.—HESSE CASSEL.—THE HANSE TOWNS. 

Routes.331 

SECT. VI.—PRUSSIA, continued. 

Routes . . 420 

SECT. VII.—SAXONY. 

Introductory Information ......... 453 

Routes.454 

SECT. VIII. — NASSAU. — FRANKFURT. — HESSE - DARMSTADT. — 

RHENISH BAVARIA.—BADEN.—THE RHINE from Mayence to 

Strasburg. 

Preliminary Information.509 

Routes.511 

Index.589 















ABBREVIATIONS, &c., USED IN THE HANDBOOK. 

The points of the Compass are marked simply by the letters N. S. E. W. 

(rt.) right, (l.) left. The right bank of a river is that -which lies on the right 
hand of a person whose back is turned towards the source, or the quarter from 
which the current descends. 

m. =r mile; R. or Rte. = Route; St. or Stat. = Railway Station. 

Eng. Ch. Service = English Church Service. 

An asterisk (*) to call attention of travellers to objects of note, Inns de¬ 
serving commendation, and the like. 

When miles are spoken of without any descriptive epithet, English statute 
miles are to be understood. 

The names of inns precede the description of every place (often in a paren¬ 
thesis), because the first information needed by a traveller is where to lodge. 
The best inns, as far as they can be determined, are placed first. 

Instead of designating a town by the vague words “large” or “small,” the 
amount of the population, according to the latest census, is almost invariably 
stated, as presenting a more exact scale of the importance and size of the place. 

In order to avoid repetition, the Routes through the larger states of Europe 
are preceded by a chapter of preliminary information; and, to facilitate reference 
to it, each division or paragraph is separately numbered. 

Every Route has a number, corresponding with the figures attached to the 
Route on the Map, which thus serves as an index to the Book; at the same time 
that it presents a tolerably exact view of the great high roads of Europe, and of 
the course of public conveyances. 

The Map of Germany is to be placed at the end of the book. The Plans of 
Amsterdam, Antwerp, Brussels, Cologne, Hamburg, Berlin, Dresden, and 
Frankfurt-on-the-Main, are to be placed respectively opposite to the com¬ 
mencement of the descriptions of those towns. 





INTRODUCTION, 


CONTAINING INFORMATION WHICH MAY BE OF USE BEFORE 

LEAVING ENGLAND, 


a, Maxims and Hints for Travelling. — b. Language. —c. Money; Circular 
Notes. —d. Passports. —e. Couriers. —f. Carriage. —g. Requisites for Tra¬ 
velling; Luggage; Dress. —h. Steamboats from England. —i. Landing on 
the Continent; Custom-houses and Commissionaires. —k. British Custom¬ 
house; Transmission of Baggage or Goods from the Continent to England.— 1. 
Inns and Innkeepers. —m. English Church on the Continent. —n. A few Ske¬ 
leton Tours. —o. Foreign Measures of Length reduced to English ; Tables of 
the Relative Value of the Money of Germany compared with that of England 
and France. 


a. Maxims and Hints for Travelling. 

“ Travel in the younger sort is a part of education ; in the elder, a part 
of experience. He that travelleth into a country before he hath some en¬ 
trance into the language, goeth to school and not to travel. That young men 
travel under some tutor, or grave servant, I allow well; so that he be 
such a one that hath the language, and hath been in the country before; 
whereby he may be able to tell them what things are worthy to be seen in 
the country where they go, what acquaintances they are to seek, what 
exercise or discipline the place yieldeth; for else young men shall go 
hooded, and look abroad little. The things to be seen and observed are 
the courts of princes, especially when they give audience to ambassadors ; 
the courts of justice while they sit and hear causes ; and so of consistories 
ecclesiastic; the churches and monasteries, with the monuments which are 
therein extant; the walls and fortifications of cities and towns: and so 
the havens and harbours, antiquities and ruins, libraries, colleges, disputa¬ 
tions, and lectures, where any are ; shipping and navies ; houses and gar¬ 
dens of state and pleasure near great cities ; armouries, arsenals, magazines, 
exchanges, burses, warehouses; exercises of horsemanship, fencing, train¬ 
ing of soldiers, and the like ; comedies, such whereunto the better sort of 
persons do resort; treasuries of jewels and robes ; cabinets and rarities ; 
and, to conclude, whatsoever is memorable in the places where they go; 
after all which the tutors or servants ought to make diligent inquiry. As 
for triumphs, masks, feasts, weddings, funerals, capital executions, and 
such shows, men need not to be put in mind of them ; yet are they not to 
be neglected. If you will have a young man to put his travel into a little 
room, and in a short time to gather much, this you must do : first, as was 
said, he must have some entrance into the language before he goeth ; then 
he must have such a servant or tutor as knoweth the country, as was 

a 3 







X 


a. MAXIMS AND HINTS 


likewise said: let him carry with him also some card or book describing 
the country where he travelleth, which will be a good key to his inquiry ; 
let him keep also a diary; let him not stay long in one city or town—more 
or less as the place deserveth, but not long; nay, when he stayeth in one 
city or town, let him change his lodging from one end and part of the 
town to another, which is a great adamant of acquaintance; let him 
sequester himself from the company of his countrymen, and diet in such 
places where there is good company of the nation where he travelleth ; let 
him, upon his removes from one place to another, procure recommenda¬ 
tion to some person of quality residing in the place whither he removeth, 
that he may use his favour in those things he desireth to see or know— 
thus he may abridge his travel with much profit. As for the acquaintance 
which is to be sought in travel, that which is most of all profitable is 
acquaintance with the secretaries and employed men of ambassadors ; for 
so in travelling in one country he shall suck the experience of many: let 
him also see and visit eminent persons in all kinds which are of great 
name abroad, that he may be able to tell how the life agreetli with the 
fame : for quarrels, they are with care and discretion to be avoided ; they 
are commonly for mistresses, healths, place, and wmrds; and let a man 
beware how he keepeth company with choleric and quarrelsome persons, 
for they will engage him into their own quarrels. When a traveller 
returneth home, let him not leave the countries where be hath travelled 
altogether behind him; but maintain a correspondence by letters with 
those of his acquaintance which are of most w r orth: and let his travel 
appear rather in his discourse than in his apparel or gesture; and in his 
discourse let him be rather advised in his answers than forward to tell 
stories: and let it appear that he doth not change his country manners for 
those of foreign parts, but only prick in some flowers of that he hath 
learned abroad into the customs of his own country.”— Lord Bacon. 
Essays , XIX. 


“ Ours is a nation of travellers; and no wonder, when the elements 
air, water, fire, attend at outbidding, to transport us from shore to shore ; 
when the ship rushes into the deep, her track the foam as of some mighty 
torrent, and, in three hours or less, we stand gazing and gazed at among a 
foreign people. None want an excuse. If rich, they go to enjoy ; if poor, 
to retrench; if sick, to recover ; if studious, to learn ; if learned, to relax 
from their studies. But whatever they may say, whatever they may 
believe, they go for the most part on the same errand; nor will those who 
reflect think that errand an idle one. 

“ Almost all men are over-anxious. No sooner do they enter the world 
than they lose that taste for natural and simple pleasures, so remarkable 
in early life. Every hour do they ask themselves what progress they have 
made in the pursuit of wealth or honour ; and on they go as their fathers 
went before them, till, weary and sick at heart, they look back with a 
sigh of regret to the golden time of their childhood. 

“ Now travel, and foreign travel more particularly, restores to us in a 
great degree what we have lost. When the anchor is heaved, we double 
down the leaf, and for a while at least all effort is over. The old cares 
are left clustering round the old objects, and at every step, as we proceed, 





FOR TRAVELLING. 


XI 

the slightest circumstance amuses and interests. All is new and strange. 
We surrender ourselves, and feel once again as children. Like them, we 
enjoy eagerly; like them, when we fret, we fret only for the moment: 
and here the resemblance is very remarkable; for if a journey has its 
pains as well as its pleasures (and there is nothing unmixed in the world), 
the pains are no sooner over than they are forgotten, while the pleasures 
live long in the memory. 

“ Nor is it surely without another advantage. If life be short, not so 
to many of us are its days and its hours. When the blood slumbers in the 
veins, how often do we wish that the earth would turn faster on its axis, 
that the sun would rise and set before it does, and, to escape from the 
weight of time, how many follies, how many crimes are committed ! Men 
rush on danger, and even on death. Intrigue, play, foreign and domestic 
broil, such are their resources; and, when these things fail, they destroy 
themselves. 

“ Now, in travelling, we multiply events, and innocently. We set out, 
as it were, on our adventures; and many are those that occur to us, 
morning, noon, and night. The day we come to a place which we have 
long heard and read of,—and in Italy we do so continually,—it is an era 
in our lives; and from that moment the very name calls up a picture. 
How delightfully, too, does the knowledge flow in upon us, and how fast! 
Would he who sat in a corner of his library, poring over his books and 
maps, learn more or so much in the time, as he who, with his eyes and his 
heart open, is receiving impressions all day long from the things them¬ 
selves ? How accurately do they arrange themselves in our memory,— 
towns, rivers, mountains; and in what living colours do we recal the 
dresses, manners, and customs of the people ! Our sight is the noblest of all 
our senses,—‘ It fills the mind with most ideas, converses with its objects 
at the greatest distance, and continues longest in action without being 
tired.’ Our sight is on the alert when we travel; and its exercise is then 
so delightful that we forget the profit in the pleasure. 

“ Like a river that gathers, that refines as it runs,—like a spring that 
takes its course through some rich vein of mineral,—we improve, and im¬ 
perceptibly—nor in the head only, but in the heart. Our prejudices leave 
us one by one. Seas and mountains are no longer our boundaries; we 
learn to love, and esteem, and admire beyond them. Our benevolence 
extends itself with our knowledge. And must we not return better 
citizens than we went? For the more we become acquainted with the in¬ 
stitutions of other countries, the more highly must we value our own.”— 
Samuel Rogers . 


“ Even of those who wish to profit by travelling there are many who 
do not sufficiently consider that, to see and hear with understanding, they 
should come provided with some other stores besides a purse and a pass¬ 
port ; and that one who is unacquainted with the language, history, and 
geography of the country through which he is passing, is as incapable of 
gaining information from intercourse with foreigners as if he w T ere deaf or 
dumb. ‘ Necesse est facere sumptum qui quserit lucrum or, as Johnson 
has well said, ‘ A man must carry knowledge with him, if he would bring 
home knowledge.’ ”— J. W .— Quarterly Review. 





Xll 


a. MAXIMS AND HINTS 


“ The enjoyment of travelling, like other pleasures, must be purchased 
at some little expense; and he whose good humour can be ruffled by every 
petty inconvenience he may chance to encounter had unquestionably better 
remain at home .”—Captain Hamilton. 


“ Travelling may be said to be a state of great pleasure mixed with 
great annoyance ; but by management the former may be much increased, 
and the latter proportionably diminished. 

“ Wherever you are, it is good to fall into the customs and habits of the 
place ; for though sometimes they may be a little inconvenient, it is gene¬ 
rally much more so to run counter to them. Those who have their own 
way never succeed but at much greater cost than success is worth.”— 
Walker's Original. 


“ One of the greatest annoyances in travelling is continual exposure to 
imposition; but this may, by good management, be frequently avoided, 
either altogether or in part, as by bad management it may be greatly in¬ 
creased. 

“ My observation tells me there is no preventive against these different 
kinds of imposition so sure as a certain quiet composed bearing, indicative 
at once of self-respect, and of consideration for others. I have made many 
experiments in the matter, under various circumstances, both in this 
country and abroad, and the result seems to me to be, that by such beha¬ 
viour you insure greater attention at a lower cost than by any other 
course ; and, having adopted such a course, I think that on the Continent 
you may still be exposed, when actually travelling, to imposition to the 
extent of about ten per cent, upon your expenditure, to which, for com¬ 
fort’s sake, and to avoid the chance of being wrong, which frequently 
happens in small matters, it is wise to submit, without keeping yourself 
in a constant fever and state of distraction from the objects only worthy of 
attention.”— Walker's Original. 

The reflections of Tristram Shandy on this head are not to be sur¬ 
passed:—“ Yet, notwithstanding all this, and a pistol tinder-box, which 
was, moreover, filched from me at Sienna, and twice that I paid five pauls 
for two hard eggs, once at Radicofani, and a second time at Capua,—I do 
not think a journey through France or Italy, provided a man keep his 
temper all the way, so bad a thing as some people would make you be¬ 
lieve. There must be ups and downs , or how the deuce should we get 
into valleys, where nature spreads so many tables of entertainment ? It is 
nonsense to suppose they will lend you their voitures to be shaken to 
pieces for nothing; and unless you pay twelve sous for greasing your 
wheels, how should the poor peasant get butter for his bread? We realty 
expect too much ; and for the livre or two above par for your supper and 
bed, at the most they are but one shilling and ninepence halfpenny. 
Who would embroil their philosophy for it? For Heaven’s sake and your 
own pay it—pay it with both hands open !”— Sterne. 




FOR TRAVELLING. xiii 

* c Not the least important of the requisites for a traveller is the temper 
in which he should undertake to perform his journey. It is not sufficient 
for a pleasant excursion on the Continent that he has money enough to 
meet his expenses. The comfort with which an Englishman—who under¬ 
stands the word better than any other—is likely to enjoy an excursion in 
lands where the language, manners, and customs are so different from his 
own, will greatly depend upon his carrying with him a ready stock of 
good temper and forbearance, which have more certain currency than gold 
in the purchase of civilities and efforts to please. A man will see more, 
enjoy more, and learn more, by carrying with him his head and heart in 
good travelling trim, than can be obtained by having his pockets full of 
letters of credit, without this necessary state of mind and feelings. It is a 
fact deeply to be regretted, that many vulgar and half-witted Englishmen 
think, if they leave home with money, they can command anything ; that 
it is mean to be civil, and beneath them to feel grateful for any efforts to 
oblige them made by those for whose services they pay. The presumption 
of our countrymen is proverbial on the Continent; fortunately, the excep¬ 
tions are numerous, and we are spoken of as an unaccountable people, when 
some men of unquestionable character and fortune display examples of 
suavity and true gentility which cannot be surpassed on earth; the 
foreigner is thus puzzled to know how to estimate our national character. 
It is a vulgar prejudice that all foreigners cheat the English, and that 
caution is necessary to guard against the constant attempts to overreach 
them. That some such characters are met with cannot be denied; but 
those whose rapacity is thus made to characterise a class have been often 
created by the meanness and prejudices and thoughtless extravagance of 
the travellers themselves. It is a bad feeling to set out with, that you 
must be always on your guard. Custom has established certain charges, 
and any deviation from them is soon detected; but it too often happens 
that things are demanded by the traveller which are very expensive, or 
difficult to procure: the charge for these is protested against as extrava¬ 
gant, though the injustice is entirely on the side of the grumbler. Firm¬ 
ness in not paying more than what is customary, unless such extraordinary 
trouble has been given, will always succeed ; and good humour will lower 
a bill more readily than violence.”— Brockedon. 


“ It is particularly desirable to make the necessary arrangements with 
respect to luggage, passports, &c., a little beforehand, and not to be in a 
feverish heat and bustle at the last moment, with the chance of forgetting 
something of importance. Setting out at one’s ease is a good omen for the 
rest of the journey. With respect to luggage I recommend the greatest 
compactness possible, as being attended with constant and many advan¬ 
tages ; and, in general, I think people are rather over-provident in taking 
more than they want. Avoid being intrusted with sealed letters, or carry¬ 
ing anything contraband, for yourself or others. The necessity for con¬ 
cealment causes a perpetual anxiety, and has a tendency to destroy that 
openness of manner which is often very serviceable in getting on. Avoid 
also commissions.”— Walker's Original. 



b. LANGUAGE. 


xiv 

.Tamque ascendebat collem, qui plurimus urbi 
Imminet, adversasque aspectat desuper arces.—V irG. 

The quickest mode of acquiring a good idea of any place is to take the 
earliest opportunity of ascending some tower or eminence, from which there 
is a commanding view, with some person who can point out the most re¬ 
markable objects. If this is followed up by wandering about without a 
guide, and trusting solely to your own observation, you will be as well 
acquainted with the localities in a few hours as the generality of travellers 
would be in a week, or perhaps better, because your impressions will be 
stronger. I do not mean by this to supersede the employment of guides 
in sight-seeing, for they are very useful in saving time. 

b. Language. 

The Emperor Charles Y. used to say, that in proportion to the number 
of languages a man knew, he was so many more times a man. No one 
should think of travelling before he has made some acquaintance with the 
language of the country he is about to visit. This should be the first, as 
it is the best, preparation for a journey. It will prove as good as a doubly- 
filled purse to the traveller—as two pair of eyes and one pair of ears—for, 
without it, the one pair he possesses is likely to be of little use. 

The only other advice which will be here offered to the traveller is, that 
he should make up his mind beforehand what line of route he proposes to 
follow, and gain some acquaintance with the country before setting out by 
perusing the best works descriptive of it; that he should lay in such a 
stock of good temper and patience as is not likely soon to be exhausted, 
whatever mishaps may befal him ; and that he should divest himself, as 
soon as possible, of his prejudices, and especially of the idea of the amazing 
superiority of England above all other countries, in all respects. 


c. Money—Circular Notes. 

The safest, most economical, and most convenient mode of carrying 
money abroad to meet the expenses of a journey, is in the shape of circular 
notes , which may be obtained from Messrs. Herries, Farquhar, and Co. ; 
Coutts and Co.; Sir Claude Scott, Bt., and Co., Cavendish Square ; Messrs. 
Twining, in the Strand, near Temple Bar; the Union Bank; London 
and Westminster; and the other chief Banks in London. These notes 
possess this great advantage over a common letter of credit, that the bearer 
may receive his money at many different places instead of one fixed spot 
alone. The traveller, having determined how much money he will require 
for his journey,* pays in that sum to the banker, and receives in exchange, 
without any charge, notes to the same amount, each of the value of 10/. or 

* It is difficult, if not impossible, to fix with any approach to exactness the average rate of 
expenses of a traveller abroad, as it depends so much on his own habits and the extent of his 
days’ journeys, and varies in different countries ; but, unless the expenditure be v-erv lavish, 
20s. to 25s. a day for each individual ought fully to cover the outlay. On a pedestrian 
excursion in remote situations, the expenses can hardly exceed from 8s. to 10s. per diem. The 
cost ofliving at foreign inns is insignificant compared with that of locomotion, and the* latter 
will of course be proportionately increased when the traveller proceeds rapidly, making 
long days’ journeys. The above calculation will be near the mark if he travel 70 or 80 
English miles a-day; if he limit himself to 40 or 50,the expense will probably not exceed 20s. 
or each person. 



C. MONEY—CIRCULAR NOTES. XV 

201. or upwards, together with a general letter of order , addressed by the 
house to its foreign agents, which, while it serves to identify the bearer, also 
gives him a claim to their good offices, in case he may need them. The 
letter is addressed to nearly 200 agents and correspondents in different 
parts of Europe, so that, wherever the traveller may be, he cannot be very 
far removed from his supplies. 

“ The value of the notes is reduced into foreign money, at the current 
usance course of exchange on London, at the time and place of payment, sub¬ 
ject to no deduction for commission , or to any other charge whatever, unless 
the payment be required in some particular coin which bears a premium. 
They are drawn to order, and the traveller will naturally, for his own 
security, not endorse them till he receives the money ; besides which, such 
cheques are so concerted with the agents as to render a successful forgery 
of his name very difficult.” 

Owing to the number of English who now go abroad, these circular 
letters can no longer be expected to serve as a private letter of introduction ; 
but it is of no slight importance in many cases of difficulty to the stranger, 
in a strange place, to be able to produce a reference to some person of 
respectability; and the parties to whom these letters are addressed are 
usually ready to afford friendly advice and assistance to those who 
need it. 

English Bank-notes are very convenient in Belgium and all parts of 
Germany. The exchange is somewhat lower than for Circular Notes. 

It is advisable to take a supply of English gold, not only to pay the 
expenses in the steamboat and on landing, but also to guard against run¬ 
ning short of money in places where circular notes cannot be cashed. 
English sovereigns bear a premium all over Germany, and in shops and 
inns at all the large towns they ought to be taken at their full value. 
When the stranger, however, requires to change this or any other money 
into the current coin of the country in which he is travelling, the best plan 
is to take them to some authorised Money-changer (Geld-wechsler, Chan- 
geur de monnaies), who from his profession is necessarily acquainted with 
the rate of exchange (such persons are to be found in almost every town); 
and by no means to change them at shops or inns, where, from ignorance or 
fraud, travellers are liable to be cheated. 

Waiters, and clerks of steamboats and railway offices, are too apt to pre¬ 
sume upon the traveller’s ignorance by depreciating the value of Napoleons, 
Sovereigns, and 10-Guilder-pieces, unless the stranger be aware of the true 
value, and demand specifically the full amount of change. 

A traveller, in changing a circular note, will of course take the money 
of the country, provided he intends remaining long enough in it to expend 
the sum taken. The Prussian Bank-notes for 10, 5, and 1 dollar, &c., are 
current in every part of Germany where the custom-house system (Zoll- 
verein) prevails. In changing circular notes take care that the banker 
does not give you notes of foreign states, as the traveller will lose upon 
them in paying them away. 

The best continental gold coins which persons bound for the Continent 
can take with them out of England are Napoleons. Gold coins are rare in 
some parts, and must be purchased at a premium by those who require 
them. 


xvi c. Money—circular notes, d. passport. 

The best silver coins are, for Northern Germany, Prussian dollars, 
since the coins of Prussia (except the small pieces) now pass current 
in all the states which are members of the Custom-house Union 
(Zollverein); and for Southern Germany, florins and half-florins, which 
are current from Frankfurt and Dresden southwards. 

It is essential to be provided with the legal money of the country in 
which you are travelling, if you would avoid delay or extortion at inns, 
post-houses, &c. In merely passing through a country, it is expedient to 
take no more of its coins than are necessary to carry one through it, as 
almost every state has a distinct coinage, and a certain loss must be sus¬ 
tained by each exchange. 


d. Passports — English, Passports. 

By a decree of the Emperor Napoleon III., British subjects are admitted 
into France, and allowed to travel through the country, except in war 
time, without Passports, on merely declaring their nationality. Passports 
are no longer insisted on in Belgium, Holland, Prussia, Switzerland, Italy 
or Austria; but Englishmen are advised not to travel without this im¬ 
portant certificate of identification (indeed it is not prudent to dispense 
with it). 

Regulations respecting Passports. — 1. Applications for Foreign-office 
Passports must be made in writing, and enclosed in a cover addressed to 
“ The Chief Clerk, Foreign-office, London,” with the word “ Passport” con¬ 
spicuously written on the cover. 

2. The charge on the issue of a Passport, whatever number of persons 
may be named in it, is 2s.; and if it is desired that the Passport should be 
sent by post, that sum must be forwarded with the application for the 
Passport by a Post-office order, made payable at the Post-office, Charing 
Cross, London, to the Chief Clerk of the Foreign-office, Francis B. Alston”, 
Esq. Postage stamps will not be received in payment. 

3. Foreign-office Passports are granted only to British-born subjects, or 
to such foreigners as have become naturalised, either by Act of Parliament 
or by a Certificate of Naturalisation granted by the Secretary of State for 
the Home Department. When the party is a “Naturalised British subject ” 
he will be so designated in his Passport; and if his Certificate of Naturaliza¬ 
tion be dated subsequently to the 24th of August, 1850, and previously to 
the 1st of August, 1858, his Passport will be marked as good for one year 
only; or should the certificate be dated subsequently to the 1st of August, 
1858, his Passport will in that case be marked as good for six months only, 
except in cases where a license for a longer period of residence abroad has 
been granted by the Secretary of State for the Home Department; but 
this regulation will not preclude any person whom it affects from obtaining 
at the Foreign-office, at any future time, on his producing his old Passport, 
a fresh Passport in exchange for it for a further limited period, without 
being required to pay a fresh charge. A Foreign-office Passport granted to 
a British-bom subject or to a “Naturalised British subject” who has been 
naturalised by Act of Parliament, or whose Certificate of Naturalisation is 
dated previously to the 24th of August, 1850, is not limited in point of 






d. passports: English. xvii 

time, but is available for any time, or for any number of journeys to the 
Continent. 

4. Passports are granted to all persons either known to the Secretary of 
State or recommended to him by some person who is known to him ; or 
upon the application of any Banking Firm established in London or in any 
part of the United Kingdom ; or upon the production of a Certificate of 
Identity signed by any mayor, magistrate, Justice of the Peace, minister of 
religion, physician, surgeon, solicitor, or notary, resident in the United 
Kingdom. 

5. If the applicant for a Passport be a naturalised British subject, his 
Certificate of Naturalisation, with his signature subscribed to the oath 
printed on the third page of it, must be forwarded to the Foreign-office 
with the Certificate of Identity granted on his behalf; and his Certificate 
of Naturalisation will be returned with the Passport to the person who 
may have granted the Certificate of Identity, in order that he may cause 
such naturalised British subject to sign the Passport in his presence. The 
agents at the outports are not authorised to grant Passports to naturalised 
British subjects, and such persons, if resident in London or in the suburbs, 
should apply personally for their Passports at the Foreign-office. 

6. Passports are issued at the Foreign-office between the hours of 11 and 
4 on the’day following that on which the application for the Passport has 
been received at the Foreign-office; but the Passports will be issued at 
the outports immediately on application, accompanied by the production of 
a Certificate of Identity, within such hours as may be fixed with regard to 
the convenience of persons desirous of embarking for the Continent. 

7. A Passport cannot be sent by the Foreign-office, or by an agent at an 
outport, to a person already abroad ; such person, being a British-born 
subject, should apply for one to the nearest British Mission or Consulate. 
A Passport cannot be issued abroad to a naturalised British subject except 
for a direct journey to England, or in the case of a Colonial naturalised 
subject for a journey back to the colony where he has been naturalised. 
Neither can a Passport granted at the Foreign-office to a naturalised British 
subject for a limited period be renewed by Her Majesty’s diplomatic or 
consular agents in foreign countries ; but only at the Foreign-office. 

8. The bearer of every Passport granted by the Foreign-office should 
sign his Passport as soon as he receives it; without such signature either 
the visa may be refused, or the validity of the Passport questioned abroad. 
Travellers about to proceed to Russia, Turkey, and Portugal, can have their 
Passports vise at the under-mentioned places respectively; for Russia, at 
the Russian Consulate, 32, Great Winchester Street; for Turkey, at the 
Turkish Embassy, 1, Bryanston-square; and for Portugal, at the Portu¬ 
guese Consulate, 5, Jeffrey’s-square. Travellers about to proceed to Austria, 
Bavaria, Belgium, Denmark, The Netherlands, France, Italy, Prussia, 
Saxony, Spain, Sweden and Norway, or Wurtemberg, need not obtain the 
visa of the diplomatic or consular agents of those countries respectively 
resident in the United Kingdom. 

N.B. Travellers who may have any intention of visiting the Russian 


iViii 


d. PASSPORTS! ENGLISH. 


empire at any time in the course of their travels, are particularly and 
earnestly advised not to quit England without having had their Passports 
vise at the Kussian Consulate in London.* 


Model form of Certificate of Identity to be written out in full, signed and 
sealed by the person giving it; and also by the person in whose behalf it 
is granted. 

“ (Date of place and day of the month.) 

“ The undersigned, Mayor of ( Magistrate, Justice of the Peace , Minister, 
Physician , Surgeon , Solicitor or Notary , as the case may be), residing 
at hereby certifies that A. B. (Christian 

and surname to be written at length ), whose signature is written at 

foot, is { a BrihsJl * u tyect l and requires a Passport to enable 

* \ a naturalized British subject ) 1 1 

Um \*mZdonthe Continent } ^companied, as the case may he, by 
his wife and children , with their tutor , named C. D. ( Christian and sur- 

name to he written, at length), { “ ^f'alM British subject] and 

governess , and maid-servant («r servants ), and man-servant 

(or servants ), named E. F., a British subject (or subjects ), and a courier, 
named G. H., a naturalised British subject. 


“ (Seal). 


“ (Signed) 

“ (With the usual signature.) 


“ Signature of the above-named.” 


As a general rule, the utmost care should be taken of the passport. It 
should always be carried about the person, in readiness when called for; and, 
to preserve it from being worn out, which it is likely to be from friction in 
the pocket, and being thumbed by the horny fingers of so many police 
agents and gensdarmes at each successive vise, it is convenient to have it 
bound up in a pocket-book , with blank leaves to receive signatures when 
the vacant space on the passport itself is covered. 

Travellers on the Continent are not now troubled about their passport; 
but it is useful to have one to show at the Post-office when asking for 
letters—the sight of it will procure admission to many foreign galleries 
and collections. 

The different members of a family can have their names included in one 
passport, but friends travelling together had better provide themselves 
with distinct passports. Male servants should also have separate pass¬ 
ports, distinct from their masters’. 

N.B.—The signature which the bearer of a passport must attach to it 
when it is delivered to him ought to be written as clearly and distinctly as 
possible, that it may be easily read. 


* Any information or further explanations will he given by Messrs. Lee and Carter, 440, West 
Strand, by Messrs. Dorrell <k Son, 15, Charing Cross, or by Mr. Stanford, Charing Cross, who 
supply pocket-cases for passports and other articles useful for travellers. 





tl PASSPORTS ! AUSTRIAN. 6. COURIERS. 


xix 

Austrian Passport. 

The signature of an Austrian ambassador or minister is no longer required 
to the passport of a British subject. The Austrian dominions can now be 
entered without it. 

Passports cannot be sent by the Foreign Office to persons already abroad. 
Such persons should apply to the nearest British mission or consulate. 

e. Couriers. 

. Travellers not familiar with foreign languages, who have ladies, a car¬ 
riage, and luggage, require a servant, especially on hurried journeys. 

It is notorious that English servants taken for the first time to the Con¬ 
tinent, and ignorant of every language but their own, are worse than use¬ 
less—they are an encumbrance. The traveller who requires a servant at 
any rate had better take a foreign one ; but he who speaks the language of the 
Continent himself, and will submit to the details of the coinage and the post¬ 
books, may save himself much expense by dispensing with a servant 
altogether. Thus the knowledge of language becomes a source of eco¬ 
nomy. A courier, however, though an expensive luxury, is one which 
conduces much to the ease and pleasure of travelling, and few who can 
afford one will forego the advantage of his services. He relieves his mas¬ 
ter from much fatigue of body and perplexity of mind, in unravelling the 
difficulties of long bills and foreign moneys, sparing his temper the trials 
it is likely to endure from disputes with innkeepers, postmasters, and the 
like. If clever and experienced, and disposed to consult the comfort 
of his employer, he is a most useful person. Although in these days of 
railways he is not required to precede the carriage at each stage, to secure 
relays of post-horses, his duties at the Pailway Station in taking tickets, 
booking and attending to the luggage—both departing and arriving—and 
in securing good seats in the train for his party, are equally important. He 
must make arrangements for his employer’s reception at inns where he in¬ 
tends to pass the night; must secure comfortable rooms, clean and well-aired 
beds, and order meals to be prepared, fires to be lighted, taking care that 
his master is called in proper time, and that the post-horses are ordered at 
the right hour. He ought to have a thorough knowledge of everything 
that relates to the care of a carriage; he should examine it at the end of 
each day’s journey to ascertain whether it requires any repairs, which 
should be executed before setting out; and it is his fault if any accident 
occur en route from neglect of such precautions. He should superintend 
the packing and unpacking of the luggage, should know the number of 
parcels, &c., and be on his guard against leaving anything behind. It falls 
to the courier to pay innkeepers, postmasters, and postboys, and he ought 
to take care that his master is not overcharged. Besides this, he performs 
all the services of waiting and attendance, cleaning and brushing clothes, 
&c. He ought to write as well as speak the language of the countries he 
is about to visit, so as to be able to communicate by letter with inn¬ 
keepers, when it is necessary to bespeak accommodation beforehand; and 
he is not perfectly accomplished unless he have a smattering of the art of 
cookery. 








XX 


e. COURIERS. 


“ The faults of many of the couriers who offer their services to travellers j 
are numerous and serious: though the usual wages of ten Napoleons 
a month, to find themselves, he paid them, they live at the cost of the 
traveller; that is, they pay nothing at the inns ; hut if this were all, it 
would he unimportant; the fact is, that they regularly sell their families 1 
to certain innkeepers, to whom they are known on the road, and de- j 
mand a gratuity proportioned to the number and stay of their party : this s 
is recharged in some form from the traveller. On the road, if a dishonest 
courier pay the postilions, he pockets something at each relay, generally 
from their remuneration, which in the course of a long journey becomes 
of a serious amount. The author, after having long submitted to sys¬ 
tematic and customary peculation until it passed endurance, found, from 'the 
hour that he parted with his courier, that the bills at the inns fell above 
20 per cent, without previous arrangement; and that the postilions were 
grateful and pleased for less than the courier said he had paid for their 
services when they were dissatisfied. 

“ There are, however, honest couriers ; and when their services can be 
obtained they are truly valuable, especially to those who have never 
travelled before.”— Brockedon's Roadbook to Naples. 

“ It is manifest from the duties of a courier that he has the temptation 
and opportunity of being dishonest; but so has every servant in whom con¬ 
fidence is placed, and to whom property is intrusted; but it is as repugnant 
to our feelings, as it is at variance with our experience, to condemn couriers 
or any other class. There are honest and faithful couriers, who not only 
protect their employers from the imposition of others, but vigilantly and 
indefatigably perform their duty in other respects. For the sake of servant 
and master we advise travellers to settle their courier’s accounts regularly 
and at short intervals, and to examine minutely the book of expenses. 
We have no hesitation in saying that, especially to a family, a good 
courier is invaluable in saving time, trouble, money, and loss of temper to 
his master.”— Dr. S. 

It would greatly improve the relations in which traveller, innkeeper, 
and courier mutually stand to one another, if the practice were introduced 
of the master (traveller) paying for his courier as he does for any other 
servant. At present, though the courier nominally provides for himself 
at an inn, his board and lodging in reality form an addition to the master’s 
bill. 

The usual wages of a courier while travelling are from SI. to 10?. a 
month,—if he be engaged for less than 2 months, he will probably expect 
12?.; if his services be retained while his master is stationary in a place, 
he ought not to expect more than 6?. supposing his engagement to last 
for ten or twelve months. 

Couriers and travelling servants may be heard of in London at the 
Couriers' Union * a respectable association, chiefly of Germans and Swiss, 
under a Committee of couriers and tradespeople, who admit into their 
body, and recommend to travellers, only such as are of unexceptionable 
character ; office, 12, Bury Street, St. James’s ; Mr. Th. Yates is Secretary. 
The same may be said of the United Couriers' Society , whose office is at 

* Also at Lee's, 440, West Strand, and Dm-ell & Son’s, 15, Charing Cross. 




XXI 


/. CARRIAGE. 

Webster’s, 60, Piccadilly, where necessary information may be obtained. 
There is another society, chiefly of Italians, also respectable, at 38, Golden 
Square. Couriers ought on no account to be engaged without producing 
unexceptionable testimonials as to character, such as would be required of 
any other servant. A less expensive, and sometimes very honest, 
domestic may be found among the Swiss, Piedmontese, and Germans, 
in Paris, Geneva, and other continental cities, who will be satisfied 
with 5Z. a-month wages, but caution must be exercised in receiving 
such. In some countries of the Continent, such as Norway and Sweden, 
Eussia, Poland, and Hungary, a servant acquainted with their languages 
is quite essential to a traveller’s comfort. In a large part of Germany 
the French language is literally useless. 


/. Carriage. 

The rapid formation and ramifications of railways through all parts of 
the Continent, in combination with the extension of steam navigation on all 
the rivers, have operated as an argument against taking a carriage from 
England. With such expeditious and comfortable modes of travelling at 
command, it is far better for those who study economy at all, to hire 
vehicles from place to place when required, or for a fixed period, from a 
foreign coachmaker, than to carry a private carriage for several hundred 
miles by steamboat or railroad, as a piece of luggage, without deriving any 
benefit from it,—with the heavy expense of transport by water and land, 
added to that of conveying it between the railway stations and the inns. 

On the other hand, notwithstanding the increasing number of rail¬ 
roads, there is still some advantage where four or more persons aro 
travelling together, and for any considerable distance, in taking a carriage. 
Owing to the very high charges, and strict regulations about luggage, the 
expense to such a party is not much increased thereby, as the whole party 
may occupy the carriage, paying only 2nd, or in some cases ( e . g. Prague 
to Vienna) 3rd class fare ; while the luggage, being contained in the car¬ 
riage, creates no additional charge. If such a party, not having a carriage, 
' travel in 1st class places, and take a good deal of luggage,—and English 
people usually do both,—their transit expenses will probably be as great 
without as with a carriage. Some trouble, too, is saved in passing cus¬ 
tom-houses by having a carriage, provided there is good management. 

English carriages, especially those made in London, are far more to be de¬ 
pended on than any continental carriage, for ease and durability. An excel¬ 
lent carriage may be hired of a London maker for 10/. a month, and, 
when the journey lasts for three months, at 8/. a month. The coachmaker 
undertakes to defray the cost of all repairs rendered necessary by wear and 
tear, though not those caused by accidents, while the journey lasts. 

As a measure of economy, where persons intend to travel post, it is 
desirable to save the expense of freight in steamboats, sometimes amount¬ 
ing to 10/. or 12/. to and fro, and of duty in passing through France, as well 
as to avoid the injury which a vehicle will inevitably sustain from a jour¬ 
ney on the Continent. In this case it is expedient either to hire one at the 
foreign seaport at which the traveller lands, or to purchase one of foreign 
make. 





f. CARRIAGE. 


xxii 

The best form of carriage for a small party is the Cdleche , or Britzka, 
which, by the application of leather curtains or moveable windows, may 
be made to hold four persons inside under cover in case of rainy 
weather. 

The travelling carriage should have a driving seat in front , since in some 
countries the expense of one horse may be saved if the postboy drives 
from the box; if he rides, the postmaster is authorized to add an extra 
horse for him to ride on, and this even in the case of a britzka holding 
only two persons. 

A box should be attached to the carriage, containing a wrench for 
taking off the carriage wheels, a number of extra linchpins, and pieces 
of tin to fasten the linchpins. Candles should be placed in the lamps; 
they are often called for on an emergency, and in situations where they 
are not to be got in a hurry. Not only should a drag (shoe) be taken, 
or two of them for a heavy carriage, but also a chain with a hook, to attach 
to a spoke of the wheel, along with the drag, so that, in case of its failing, 
the traveller has a second safeguard to depend on. The drag should be 
of large size, and of very well tempered metal: an ordinary drag, such 
as is made on the Continent, will be worn out in half an hour in descend¬ 
ing the interminable declivities of one of the great Alpine passes. Wheels 
with patent boxes are not understood on the Continent, and, if they 
should go wrong, could with difficulty be repaired; thus common axles 
are preferable, unless with a servant who understands perfectly the manage¬ 
ment of the others. 

When a journey of only a few weeks is meditated, such as a tour up the 
Rhine and back, it is not worth while to take a carriage, now that the 
extension of railroads and steamers affords such facilities for public 
travelling. 


g. Requisites for Travelling—Luggage and Dress. 

The warning cannot be too often repeated, or too emphatically enforced 
on the traveller, that, if he values money, temper, comfort, and time, he 
will take with him as little luggage as possible. On the Belgian and 
German Railroads passengers are allowed to retain parcels which are not 
too large to go under the seat of the carriages ; all larger articles are taken 
from them, and the trouble, time, anxiety, and expense, which are saved 
by having only a bag which may be thus stowed away and carried in the 
hand, are incalculable. In cases, however, where the travelling party is 
large and a good deal of luggage is indispensable, it is a great mistake to 
distribute it in many small packages. Three large portmanteaus are 
infinitely better than six small ones : they are more easily found on 
arrival, more quickly opened at the custom-house, cost the same when you 
are charged by weight, and of course half when you are charged by 
package. For men, perhaps nothing is better than the old-fashioned 



g. REQUISITES FOR TRAVELLING. xxiii 

, leather portmanteau ; eschew all “ compendiums ” and patent inventions. 
i j For ladies, nothing is so good as a stout wicker basket, lined inside 
i with oilskin, and outside with tarpaulin; it combines lightness with 
capacity. 

Provide yourself with a pair of shooting-boots with cloth or leather tops 
; in England, where alone they can be procured good, and with a pair of 
thin boots for dress. In foreign towns you can supply yourself, for dress, 

; with polished leather shoes, which, being cheap, may be thrown aside 
when done with. This arrangement will prevent the necessity of 
loading yourself with a large stock of boots, boot-trees, and boot-cases. 
Razors and strops can be had good nowhere out of England: they are 
conveniently carried in a rolling leather dressing-case. A portable india- 
rubber bath, with a bellows to distend it, packing into the compass of 
about a foot square, is an immense comfort in summer in a hot and 
dusty climate. 

For the pedestrian the shoes , or buttoned boots , ought to be double- 
soled, provided with hobnails, such as are worn in shooting in England, 
and without iron heels, which are dangerous, and liable to slip in walking 
over rocks; the weight of a shoe of this kind is counterbalanced by 
the effectual protection afforded to the feet against sharp rocks and loose 
stones, which cause contusions, and are a great source of fatigue and pain. 
They should be so large as not to pinch any part of the foot. 

The soles should be made large, not only to afford the feet a firm bearing, 
but that the projecting edge may protect the feet from blows from large 
stones, &c. Small screws will be found better than nails, as nails are apt 
to be knocked out by striking against rocks, and the screws hold together the 
different layers of the soles, which when thick will often, after being much 
wetted, separate from each other. The experienced pedestrian never com¬ 
mences a journey with new shoes, but with a pair that have already conformed 
to the shape of the feet. Cotton stockings cut the feet to pieces on a long 
walk ; in their places, thick knit worsted socks, or cotton stockings with 
worsted feet, ought invariably to be worn. If shoes be worn, gaiters 
are useful in wet weather to keep the socks clean, at other times to 
prevent small stones from falling into the shoes, but they are liable to 
heat the ankles. It is advisable to travel in woollen trowsers, not in 
linen, which afford no protection against rain or changes of temperature 
in mountain regions ; those of Tweed stuff are very suitable. 

As to costume, the best rule is to choose that which is not conspicuous 
or unusual—a light loose morning coat for travelling, which will keep off 
dust and rain: even the English shooting-jacket has of late become 
familiar to foreigners. 

A knapsack may be purchased at a much cheaper rate abroad, and on 
a much better plan, than those made in England. Portmanteaus are 
better in England than anywhere else. Soap * is indispensable, never being 
provided in Continental inns. Glycerine tablet is useful to protect the 
skin of the face from blisters by sun and snow. 

A flask, to hold brandy or kirschwasser, is necessary on mountain 
excursions : it should be remembered, however, that spirits ought to be 

* Simpson, Payne, and Co.'s Oxford and Cambridge Soap is excellent for these purposes, as 
well as for shaving. May be procured at Barclay’s, Regent Street, or Gilbert's, New Bond Street. 



XXIV 


h. STEAMBOATS. 


resorted to less as a restorative than as a protection against cold and wet, 
and to mix with water, which ought never to he drunk cold or unmixed , 
during a walk. The best restorative is tea, and it can he procured good 
in Holland, and in most of the large towns of Germany. 

Carey, optician, 181, Strand, makes excellent pocket Telescopes , about 
four inches long, combining, with a small size, considerable power and 
an extensive range. Black glass spectacles are the best protection for the 
eyes against the glare of the sun in a southern climate. Spectacles are 
almost indispensable in railway travelling, for those who ride in 3rd class 
carriages, to protect the eyes from dust and cinders. A very neat portable 
writing-case is made by Lee, 440, West Strand, who keeps also polyglot 
washing-books in 7 or 8 languages. 

A stout leather or canvas bag, to hold silver crown-pieces and dollars ;— 
cards, adhesive labels, pieces of parchment or leather for writing directions 
for the baggage (the managers of public conveyances abroad often insist 
upon each package being addressed before they will take charge of it);— 
and one or two leather straps, to keep together small parcels, will bo 
found very useful. 


h. Steamboats from England to Holland, Belgium, France, and 

Germany. 

a . General Steam Navigation Company— Offices, 69, Lombard Street, and 

37, Regent Circus, Piccadilly. 

From St. Katherine’s Wharf:— 

From London to Rotterdam (18 hrs.), Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday. 

,, Ostend (10 hrs.), twice a week (Wednesday and Saturday) 

,, Antwerp, Tuesday and Thursday. 

,, Hamburg (37 hrs.), twice a week. 

,, Boulogne, in 8 hrs., 4 or 5 times a week. 

Belgian Company. 

From London to Antwerp, every Sunday. 

Great Eastern Railway Company. 

Steamers from Harwich , weather permitting. 

From Bishopsgate Stat. to Harwich in 2 hrs. 35 m. 

„ Harwich to Rotterdam in 12 hrs. about. 

,, Antwerp in 17 hrs. about. 

London to Dunkirk, from Fenning’s Wharf, 2 or 3 times a week. 
Netherlands Steam Company. 

London to Rotterdam, Sunday, from off the Tower, or from Blackwall. 

*** Berths may be secured in the steamers belonging to the General Stcar. 
Navigation Company; but they should be taken some time beforehand. 














i. LANDING—CUSTOM-HOUSES—COMMISSIONAIRES. XXV 

Begistration of Baggage. 

Travellers going direct from London to Paris, Brussels, Cologne, &c., and not 
requiring their baggage on the way, should register it at the Custom-house in 
the Illy. Stations at London, or Dover, or Folkestone. 

Passengers by mail train from Calais or Cologne run the risk of leaving their 
baggage behind, or of losing the first train after landing, unless their baggage is 
registered. 

Registered baggage cannot be got at on the road, or until it has reached its 
destination. 


i. Landing on the Continent—Custom-houses—Commissionaires. 

When the steamboat reaches its destined port, the shore is usually beset 
by a crowd of clamorous agents from the different hotels, each vociferating 
the name and praises of that for which he is employed, stunning the dis¬ 
tracted stranger with their cries, and nearly scratching his face with their 
proffered cards. The only mode of rescuing himself from these tormentors, 
who often beset him a dozen at a time, is to make up his mind beforehand 
to what hotel he will go, and to name it at once. The Agent or Commis¬ 
sionaire of the house then steps forward, and the rest fall back, while he 
takes the new arrival under his protection, extricates him from the throng, 
and conducts him to his quarters. 

Passengers are not allowed to take their baggage on shore with them ; 
it is conveyed at once from the vessel to the Custom-house by the Custom¬ 
house porters, who are answerable for the safety of everything. The 
owner, instead of appearing himself to claim it, had better send his servant, 
or the Commissionaire of the inn, intrusting him with the keys, in order 
that he may open and clear each package. This is his usual duty, and 
the landlord of the inn, who employs him, is answerable for his honesty. 
Personal attendance at a Custom-house is by no means calculated to put 
the traveller in good humour. Indeed, it is a severe trial to his patience, 
first to wait till his turn comes, amidst the elbowing of porters, and next 
to look on while his well-packed trunk is tossed over “ with a cruel, hard¬ 
hearted sort of civility which leaves nothing to complain of, and everything 
to lament.” Indeed, the search into the baggage is often more severe in 
the presence of the traveller, which seems sometimes to give rise to a sus¬ 
picion of smuggling. He that would keep his temper, and does not grudge 
a fee of two francs to the Commissionaire, will intrust to him his keys, 
and, dismissing the care of his baggage from his thoughts, amuse himself 
for an hour or so, when he will probably find his effects conveyed to his 
chamber, very often not opened at all, generally only slightly examined. 

If, however, the baggage contain any contraband articles, it is advisable 
to declare them beforehand, and to pay the duty. 

“ Those who would travel with comfort should be particularly on their 
guard against rendering themselves liable to detention or penalty at the 
foreign Custom-houses. They should avoid taking anything which is 
contraband, either for themselves or for their friends; for it too often 
happens that travellers on the Continent are meanly solicited to take those 
th'-r-s for their friends who are abroad which they dare not send by the' 

[n. g.] b 





XXVI 


k. BRITISH CUSTOM-HOUSE. 


public conveyance, thus rendering their travelling friends liable to penalty 
and punishment. This is more strikingly the case where they are requested 
to take letters, for which public conveyances are provided: in this case 
they suffer their friends to run a great risk for the sake of saving the 
postage. Such conduct is most unpardonable.”— Brochedon. 


h . British Custom-house—Transmission of Goods from the 

Continent. 

In England the right of personal search exists only where the Custom¬ 
house officer has good cause to suspect that contraband goods are concealed 
about the person. The suspected individual may call upon a justice of 
the peace, or a comptroller of the Customs, to decide whether the suspicion 
is well founded. The luggage of passengers by steamboat going to 
London is now examined on board the vessels between Gravesend and 
London; while luggage arriving from Ostend, Calais, or Boulogne by the 
S. E. Railway (Dover) is examined at the London Bridge station or Charing 
Cross. 

Travellers who send works of art, or other valuable property, from the 
Continent to London, should consign them to the care of an agent at the 
Custom-house in London, as such articles are frequently injured and need¬ 
less expense incurred from want of a person to take charge of them when 
they arrive, and to see them examined, entered, and properly repacked. 
The charge is the same whether the goods are so consigned or not. 

Messrs. M‘Cracken and Co., 7, Old Jewry, London, are long-established 
and highly trustworthy agents, and have a very large list of foreign corre¬ 
spondents, especially in Italy. Messrs. Lightly and Simon, 123, Fen- 
church Street, may also be mentioned. 

For lists of foreign correspondents, see the advertiser at the end of this 
volume. 

N.B.—Goods must be examined when they arrive in London, therefore pack¬ 
ages that are locked should have the keys attached. 


1 . Inns and Innkeepers. 

It is the universal custom in Continental hotels to lock the door of 
your rooms when you go out, and to deposit the keys with the porter in 
the hall, where a large board will be seen, on which are painted the 
numbers of all the apartments, each furnished with a hook to hang the 
key upon. The cards of callers, parcels, and letters, may be delivered to 
the care of the porter ; and purchases made in a town should be addressed 
with the number of the room. 

“ Many hotels, on the Rhine and elsewhere, charge a single traveller 
(who supped in the salle a manger and slept one night) a franc for wax 
candles. This is not to be admitted, unless he have a private sitting- 
room. I have never paid it, finding it immediately withdrawn on remon¬ 
strance. If travellers will not resist, they will be compelled to pay it on 
the plea of custom; nay, they will be forced to pay for wax candles for 
their servants! 



1 . INNS AND INNKEEPERS.— m . ENGLISH CHURCH. XXvii 

“ It is the interest of every hotel-keeper to supply his guests with 
information relative to the modes of leaving him: this renders their return 
more probable.” 

t Caution to Innkeepers and others .—A person or persons have for years 
past been extorting money from innkeepers, tradespeople, artists, and 
others on the Continent, under pretext of procuring recommendations and 
favourable notices of them and their establishments in “ the Red Books,” 
Livres Rouges, thereby implying the Handbooks for Travellers. The 
Editor, therefore, thinks proper to warn all whom it may concern, that 
recommendations in the Handbooks are not to be obtained by purchase, 
and that the persons alluded to are not only unauthorised by him, but are 
totally unknown to him. All those, therefore, who put confidence in such 
promises may rest assured that they will be defrauded of their money 
without attaining their object. 

The characters of inns, good and bad, inserted in the Handbook, are 
given either from personal knowledge or upon unexceptionable authority 
of travellers whose names and residences are known to the Editor. Where 
the objections stated in this book no longer exist, and where a positive 
improvement has taken place, the Editor is always ready to listen to 
respectable and well-authenticated testimony, and to remove in future 
editions the condemnatory epithets or passages. Thus he hopes to stimu¬ 
late to exertion and amendment, to protect travellers from neglect and 
imposition, and to do justice to deserving innkeepers. 

m . English Church on the Continent. 

An interesting and useful little book has been published by the 
Messrs. Rivington, in Waterloo Place, giving “ An Account of the 
Foreign Settlements of the English Church, including a Notice of the 
Times of Service, and other information useful to Travellers and Foreign 
Residents.” It will be seen that there is an English minister and congre¬ 
gation ir very many of the principal towns included in this Handbook. 
Most of these ministers officiate under a licence from the Bishop of 
London. In one or two cases they derive a portion of their income from 
an allowance made by the home or some foreign government; but, 
except in these cases, the income of the minister, and the funds necessary 
for the services of the church, and for obtaining a place for public 
worship, are dependent upon the voluntary payments of English resi¬ 
dents and travellers. 




( xxviii ) 

n. A FEW SKELETON TOURS UPON THE CONTINENT; 

WITH AN APPROXIMATE STATEMENT OF THE TIME REQUIRED TO TRAVEL FROM 
PLACE TO PLACE, AND OF THE DURATION OF THE HALTS TO BE MADE AT THE 
MOST REMARKABLE SPOTS. 


*** The first Column denotes the Hours or Days actually occupied in Travelling, 
not including stoppages at night. The second Column gives the probable 
duration of the Halts to he made for sight-seeing. The brackets [ ] denote 
side excursions, which may be omitted if time require it. 


A.— Tour through Holland. 
About a Fortnight or three "Weeks. 

Hours in Days of 
Travelling. Sojourn. 

From London to Rotter¬ 


dam 25 
Harwich 
Delft 
Hague . 
Leiden . 
Haarlem 
Amsterdam 
Alkmaar 
Helder . 
Medemblick 
Broek 
Saar dam. 
Amsterdam 
Utrecht . 
Arnhem . 
Nijmegen 
Rotterdam 


hrs., 


or 


ky 

20 


c3 

>1 

ci 

P3 


S 

4, 

1 

2 


9 

8 

2 

1 

it 

o 

u 

8 


1 

2 

_1 

4 


2 

1 


1 

4 


or 3 

A 

4 


(By steam-boat.) 

B. — London to the Borders of 
Switzerland, through Belgium 
and up the Rhine. 

A Tour of about six weeks, allowing 
ample time to see all that is most re¬ 
markable by the way. 

Hours in Days of 
Travelling. Sojourn. 

London to Ostend by 
Dover. 

Bruges . 

Ghent 
Antwerp . 

Mechlin . 

Brussels . 

Waterloo 

Namur or Huy 


• 

8 


11 

a 

1 

o 

1| 

3 

Ph 

1 

2 

1 


9 

i 

6 


a 

2 


1 or 2" 

2 or 3 


1 

4t 


[Excursion to Dinantand back, 10 hrs.] 

Hours in Days of 
Travelling. Sojourn. 


1 1 

4 

2 
2 
6 


1* 


i 

a 

X 

4 


S 

4 

1 

2 

H 

.1 

cy 

2 ~ 

1* 

H 

i 

u 

2* 

12 


1 

O 

*] 


Liege . . . 

[Spa .... 

Aix-la-Chapelle 1 rd 2 1 or 2 

Cologne . . . J 2 

[Altenberg and back . 

Bonn, and . . "I ^ 

Godesberg . . / g 

[Lake of Laach . . 

Coblenz . . . 

St. Goar . . 

Bacharach . . 

Bingen . . . 

Riidesheim . . 

Mayence . . 

[Wiesbaden. . 

Frankfurt . . 

Darmstadt . . 

[Odenwald . . 

Heidelberg . . | rd 1£ lor 

Carlsruhe . . 

Baden . . . 

Strasburg (Kehl.) 

Freiburg . . 

Schaffhausen . 

The excursions through Switzerland 
are given in Handbook for Switzer¬ 
land. 

Return from Switzerland to London 
via Paris. 

Hours. 

Basle to Strasburg (Railroad) . 4| 

Strasburg to Paris . . . . 13J 

Paris to London.11 


H 

2 G ] 

1 

2 


n 

i] 


i] 

2 

1 

2 
3 

1 

1_ 

2 

























n. SKELETON TOURS, 


xxix 


45 Days 
Rhenish 


C. — A Tour of about 
through Belgium, 

Prussia, and Nassau. 

Hours in Nights to 
Travelling, he passed. 

By Steamboat from London to 


10 


* 

* 

% # 
** 


2* 

If 

•m 

5 

9 

12 to 


• • • 

/ 15 

[ip 

9 

• ** 


3 

• • • 

| Railrd. 

• 4 

. H 

• H 


* 

4? & & 
■* * 


Ostend 
Bruges 
Ghent 
Brussels 
Waterloo I 
Namur ) 

Huy 
Liege 
Spa . 

Malmedi 

Treves . . . . 

Descent of Moselle to' 

Coblenz 
St. Goar 
Bacharach 
Bingen 
Mayence 
Frankfurt 
Wiesbaden 
Schwalbach. . . 

Ems. 

Coblenz .... 

Andemach (Railrd.) 

[Excursion to Laacher-See, 1 day] 
Remagen (Railrd.) . If 
[Excursion up the Ahr 10 


2 

4 


* 

*■ 

* 

* 


Godesberg (Railrd.) 
[Excursion to Friesdorf 
— Drachenfels 
— Heisterbach 

Bonn. . . . . . 

Cologne 
Aix-la-Cha- 
pelle 
Liege 
Louvain 
Malines 
Antwerp 
London (by Steamer) 


cS 

O 

r3 

c3 

Ph 


2 

6 

5] 


4 

3 


8| 


0 
*] 


* 

** 

* 


25 


Distances in Eng. miles from Lon¬ 
don to Frankfurt, by Rotterdam, 
Antwerp, and Ostend. 

Miles. 

London to Brielle . .180 
Brielle to Rotterdam. 20 

- 200 


Or by Harwich, Rly. 

Rotterdam, Steam. 


Rotterdam to Emmerich . 

87 

—■ to Hague 13 


— to Amster- 


dam 50 


Emmerich to Diisseldorf 

48 

Diisseldorf to Cologne. . 

22J 


135 


— 

to Elberfeld, 

16 


Cologne 

to Bonn . . 18 


Bonn 

to Coblenz . 40 

00 

o 

*|M 

Coblenz 

to Boppart . 14^ 

to Caub . . 16| 


Boppart 


Caub 

to Bingen . . 11 X 


Bingen 

to Bieberich . 14| 


Bieberich 

to Wiesbaden 


— 

to Mayence . b 

59f 

Mayence 

•> 

to Frankfurt 21 


to Mannhcim42j 



— 

5411 


London to Cologne, the direct 
route, by Antwerp, Aerschot, 
Maestricht, Aix. 


London 

to Flushing . 163 


Flushing 

to Antwerp . 66 

229 

Antwerp 

to Maestricht 


Maestricht to Aix-la-Chapelle 
Aix-la-Chapelle . . \ 

34 

45 

— 

to Cologne / * * * 



381 

London 

to Ostend .... 

136 

Ostend 

to Ghent 44| 


— 

to Brussels 30| 


— 

to Liege .... 

160 



296 


b 3 


























XXX 


n /skeleton tours. 


D. —London to Cologne, Frankfurt, 
and Basle, by Dover and Calais. 

(By Steam all the way.) 

By avoiding all stoppages, except to 
sleep at night, it is possible to reach 
Frankfurt on the 3rd night from 
London. 

Hours 
in going. 

... 2 


London to Dover . . . 

Calais.2 

LiBe.2f 

Ghent. . 3 

Malines ....... If 

Liege.2 f 

Yerviers.If 

Aix-la-Chapelle .... 1 

Cologne.If 

Coblenz. . 2 

Mayence. 2~ 

Frankfurt (Railway) . . It 

Basle (Railway) . . . 


o 

-P> 

n 

o 

rQ 


i 

8 Q 


31 


E.— London to Trieste, by Berlin, 
Leipzig, Dresden, Prague, and 
Vienna. 

London to Hours. 

Ostend by Dover. 8 


Aix-la-Chapelle 
Ruhrort. 
Minden . 
Hanover 
Magdeburg 
Berlin 
Dresden 
Prague 
Vienna 
Trieste 


r a 

ci 

O 

23 

c3 

Ph 


Another Route is, London to 
Hamburg by steamer 
[Magdeburg j ^ . . 

Berlin . . 

Dresden J Ph . . 


3* 

5f 

H 

3* 

5* 


12 $ 

22 


52 

7f 




-71* 

Berlin is connected with Vienna by 
2 lines of railway. The one by Dresden 
and Prague, as above, 24f hrs. The 
other takes 23f hrs., viz.— 

Breslau.10$ 

Ratibor.4 

Vienna.9 


23$ 


F.— London to Munich, Salzburg, 
and Vienna. 

Hours in Days of 
Travelling. Sojourn. 

To Frankfurt . . . .31 ^ ^ 01 

Heidelberg (Railroad) 3$ 




Bruchsal 
Stuttgart 
Him . . 
Augsburg 

Munich . 

Salzburg 
Hallein 
Berchtesgaden 


c3 

O 

ri 

c3 

Ph 


14, as 
in'B. 
. 1 
. 1 
. 1 


3 

4 

3 

7* 

jsj several 




} 


excur¬ 

sions. 


Ischl 
Traunsee and Fall) 
Linz . . . . { 

By Danube to Vienna. 
Or by Rail .... 



G.— London to Salzburg and Mu¬ 
nich, by Wurzburg, Nuremberg, 
and the Danube. 

Hours in Days of 
Travelling. Sojourn. 

To Frankfurt, as in D .31 
Wurzburg j ^ . . . 3$ 

Wnrpmtiprcr . . 5 


Nuremberg, d 
Ratisbon . | Ph . . . 3 

Linz \by steam down/12 


9 

6.40 


Vienna/ the Danube \ 
or by Rail . 

From Linz to the 
Falls of the Traun, 
the Lake of Gmun- 
den, and Ischl 
Salzburg . . . 

Munich . . . 

Heidelberg . . 

England by the Rhine as in B. 


12 


3 or 4 


as in F. 


II.— London to Dresden, the Saxon 
Switzerland, and Bohemian 


Baths. 

To Frankfurt as in D. 
Cassel.... 
Eisenach 
Gotha 
Erfurt 
Weimar 
Leipzig 
Dresden (Railway). 


Railway 7 


J* 

46£ 


Hours in Days of 
Travelling. Sojourn. 
31 








































tl. SKELETON TOURS. 


Hours in Days of 
# Travelling. Sojourn. 

[Excursion to Saxon 
Switzerland.] 

Teplitz.8 1 

Carlsbad.13 . . 1 

Prague.17 . . 3 

Vienna.15 . . — 

Or from Prague to 
Linz.28f 


I.—Another Route from Dresden. 

Hrs. in Days of 
Travelling. Sojourn. 

Dresden 

[Excursion to Saxon Swit¬ 
zerland, 3 or 4 days.] 

Herrnhut and Zittau 

(Railroad) . . . 3f . . — 

[Excursion to the Riesenge- 
birge and thence to Prague, 

4 or 5 days.] 

Prague.— . . 3 

Carlsbad.13 . . 1 

Marienbad .... 5 . . 1 

Eger and Franzensbad 3 . . 1 

Alexandersbad. . . 4 . . A 

[Excursion to the Fichtelge- 
birge and thence to Bai- 
reuth, 2 or 3 days.] 

[Excursion to Franconian 
Switzerland and thence to 
Bamberg, 3 days.] 

Bamberg .... — . . 1 

Kissingen and Briick- 

enau.8 . . 2 

Frankfurt .... 8 . . — 


K.—Sketch of a Second Tour in 
the Neighbourhood of the Rhine 

BY LESS FREQUENTED ROUTES, IN¬ 
TENDED FOR SUCH AS ARE ALREADY 

acquainted with Routes A and B. 


Hours in Days of 
Travelling. Sojourn. 

London to Calais... 4 . . — 


Ypres . . . > 
Toumay . . 


6 

. . - 

a , 

2 f 

. . - 

Mons. . . 

c3 • 

4 

# # - 

Namur . . 

O 

\ A5 • 

3 

# .- 

D inant . . 

( '3 . 

3 

# - 

Luxemburg . 

Ph 

5 

. .- 

Treves . . , 

Descent of 

Moselle 

4 

1 or 2 

to Coblenz: 

« * i 

12 

• • r 

Excursions . 

• • • 

— 

. . 2 


&XX1 


Hours in Days of 
Travelling. Sojourn. 


Bingen (Railroad) . 

If 

• • 

— 

Kreuznach. and Ober- 
stein • • * • • 

2 

• • 


Alzei and Mont Ton- 
nerre. 

6 

• • 


Kaiserslautern . . .] 

Landstuhl . . . > 

8 

• • 


Diirkheim . . .J 
Landau . 

8 

• • 


Annweiler and back . 

1 

• • 

x 

4 

Spires. 

4 

• • 

* 

Carlsruhe .... 

2*1 

as in 

Strasburg .... 

2*} 

B. 


Ban de la Roche and 
back. 

2 days. 


Over the Kniebis to 
Tubingen . . . 

12 hours. 


Stuttgart .... 

3 


3 

Heilbronn .... 

2 


6k 

Descent of Neckar 

8 



Erbach, in the Oden- 
wald. 

8 



Frankfurt .... 

8 


— 

Taunus Mountains to 
Limbing .... 

8 



Siegburg .... 

11 


— 

Cologne. 

3 

• • 



L. —Paris to St. Petersburg in 
7 DAYS. 

Paris to Cologne . . 12 hrs. 

Hamburg .... 26 

Liibeck.3 

St. Petersburg by steam, 60 to 70 

hours. 


M. — What may be done in Three 
Weeks, travelling by public convey¬ 
ance, and now and then at night, and 
halting on Sundays. 

Hours in 

Days. Travelling. 


1 London to Ostend, by Dover 


9 jBruges . . 

/ %> 

{Ghent. . . 


Q j Ghent. . . 


u ( Antwerp . . 

. 

4 Antwerp . . 


^ | Antwerp . . 

° l Brussels . . 



6 Brussels and Waterloo 

7 By Charleroi and the Meuse 

to Liege—Railway . . 


7 


1 


6 


If 


11 

































n. SKELETON TOURS. 


xxxii 


Days. 

g*( Aix-la-Chapelle ) 

to Cologne U ail 
p j Cologne . . 

(Coblenz . . J 

( Coblenz, Ehrenbreitstein, 

&c. 

St. Goar (rail or river) 

11 To Riidesheim, seeing 
Itheinstein and the 
Niederwald. 

12 To 'Wiesbaden) 


Hours in 
Travelling. 
. 4 


13 To Frankfurt / 


Railrd. 


14 To Heidelberg (Railroad) 
- „ | Heidelberg . . . 

0 (To Mannheim. . . 


12 

4 

2 


16 By steam to Cologne 

17 Railroad to Ostend . 

18 Ostend to London 


14 

13 

9 


Four days more would enable the 
traveller to include Baden and Stras- 
biu’g. 

This route here laid down would 
give a traveller the opportunity of 
seeing several most interesting cities 
and much fine scenery — though of 
course they could not be explored 
thoroughly in such a flying visit. A 
great many of our countrymen, having 
no fixed plan to travel by, seem only 
to calculate how far from home they 
can go in a limited time, and are con¬ 
tented with what they can see from the 
deck of the steamer and the window 
of the Train. They would be much 
more gratified were they to portion out 
their time somewhat in the manner 
indicated above. 


N.— London to Milan by Strasburg 

AND THE SPLUGEN PASS. 

Hours in. Days of 
Travelling. Sojourn. 


To Paris. 

11 . 

Basle (railway) . . 

13* . 

Zurich (railway) . . 

3* . 

Coire (across the 


lakes of Zurich and 


Wallenstadt) . . 

8 . 

Spliigen. 

7 . 

Milan. 

16 . 


From Paris to Milan, by Lucerne 
and the St. Gothard, takes 46 hrs. tra¬ 
velling. By Mont Ccnis (railroad all 
the way) to Turin in 35 hours. 


0.—London to Naples. 

Hours on the way. 

To Paris by Folkestone and 

Boulogne.11 

Chalons-sur-Saoncj 
Lyons . . . . I by rail-1 igl 

Avignon. . . . j way / " 4 

Marseilles . . .J 

Genoa . . . .) c' s s «? f 30 

Leghorn . . .1 Jj»sl 24 

Civita Yecchia 24 

Naples . . . .J .o jj’oS l 25 
This journey is practicable in 4* 
days by the direct Boats from Marseilles, 
only stopping at Civita Yecchia. 


P.— London to Constantinople and 
Athens, down the Danube. 

Days in Travelling. 
London to Frankfurt by 

Ostend and Cologne . . 1* 

Frankfurt to Ratisbon . . 1* 

Ratisbon by steam down the 
Danube to Yienna... 2 

=3 «• f Vienna to 
e 1 Pest 1 day 

Orsova 2* 

^ § j Galatz 3 

n % [ Constantinople 2* 

Constantinople to 
Smyrna, by steam every week. 
Athens, every week. 

The most agreeable way of reaching 
Constantinople or Athens is by the 
Austrian Lloyd Steamers from Trieste. 
Steamers leave Trieste—for Constanti¬ 
nople, by way of Corfu, Syra, Smyrna, 
&c., every Thursday—for Athens, by 
Ancona, Brindisi, Corfu, Patras, Lutraki, 
and by carriages across the Isthmus to 
Calimaki. 



59 hours. 



















n . skeleton tours. 


xxxiii 


Time required in travelling from London to the principal Places 

on the Continent. 

(Exclusive of delays in ■waiting for public conveyance, steamers, &c.) 

Antwerp steamer from London 

-rail to Dover, by Calais and Gand 

■-steamer to Ostend 

Amsterdam via Rotterdam 
Ancona via Paris and Turin . 

Bale by Paris and Strasbourg (or Mulbausc) 

-by Cologne and the Rhine 

Bayonne by Paris rail 

Constantinople} ^ Pest ( raawa rt> and tllcnce *>“ 

Berlin by Cologne and Minden 

*- by Rotterdam, Oberhauscn, and Minden 

- by Rotterdam, Utrecht, Zutphen, Salzbcrgen, and 

by Hamburg 


Danube 


{ 


Brindisi via Turin and Mt. Cenis . 

Brussels by Calais or Ostend 
Cologne via Calais, or Ostend, or Rotterdam 

— by Antwerp, Aerschot, Maestricht, and Aix 


— to Berlin by Elberfeld 


Copenhagen 

Como by Bale and St. Gothard 
Cracow by Breslau (railway) . 

Dresden by Rotterdam, Oberhausen, and Leipsig 
Florence by Paris, Mt. Cenis, and Turin 
Frankfurt-on-thc-Main by Cologne 
Geneva by Paris and Macon . 

- by Neuchatel 

Hanover by Cologne or Rotterdam 

-by Hamburg . 

Interlachen by Bale and Berne 
Leipsic by Cologne or Rotterdam 
Leghorn by Marseilles . 

Lyons by Paris 

Madrid by Paris and Bayonne (railway) 

Marseilles by Paris and Lyons (Exp. railway 
Milan by Macon, Geneva, and Mount Cenis 

-by Zurich and the Spliigen . 

Munich by Frankfurt, Wiirtzburg, and Augsburg 

- by Paris, Strasburg, and Stuttgart 

Naples by Marseilles 
Paris by Folkestone and Boulogne . 

Paris by Brighton, Dieppe, and Rouen 
Pest by Dresden and Vienna (railway) 

Rome by Marseilles 

Stockholm. 

Strasburg by Paris.... 

St. Petersburg by Berlin and Dunabourg 

.-by Liibeck ... 

Trieste by Dresden and Vienna (4 days and nights) 


Ianover 


4 

3 








15 hours 

15 

99 

15 

19 

21 

99 

58 

>> 

24 

99 

44 


28 


6 

days 

12 


32 hours 

30 


28 

» 

61 


65 

>> 

14 


20 

» 

18 

»» 

12 

V 

2* 

days 

60 hours 

3 

days 

to 42 hours 


72 
to 36 
26 
23 
to 27 
48 
44 
36 
to 82 
20 
52 
to 28 

H 
H 


» 

JJ 

>> 

>> 

» 

» 


days 


- ?? 
45 hours 
35 „ 

4f days 
10 hours 
12 „ 
70 .. 

3f days 
4 or 5 „ 
22 hours 
5 days 
6 or 7 „ 
82 hours 

































XXXIV 


n . SKELETON TOURS. 


Turin by Paris, and Mont Cenis (40 hours), rail all the way . 
Venice by Dresden, Vienna, and Trieste. 

■ -by Munich and the Tyrol. Brenner Pass . 

-by Mont Cenis, Turin, and Milan .... 

-by Zurich, the Spliigen, and Milan .... 

Vienna by Frankfurt and Ratisbon, and thence down the Danube 
-by Cologne, Magdeburg, and Dresden (railway) 

■ -by Paris, Strasburg, Munich, Salzburg [Exp. 50.] 

Warsaw by Breslau (railway). 


2 days 
days 
5 


2f 




. 2 ± „ 

97 hours 


60 

60 


5 ? 


3^ days 


Hours. 


Paris to Cologne.1 

-to Berlin.24 

-to Milan.36 

-to Venice.51 

•-to Florence.56 

-to Turin.35 


Hours. 

-to Genoa.38 

-to Konigsberg .... 43 

-to St. Petersburg . . 140^ 

Berlin to Vienna.24£ 

-to St. Petersburg (Post) 110 


*** Those among the above routes which belong to Southern Germany are 
described in the second Volume of the Handbook. The Swiss routes will be 
found in the Handbook for Switzerland. 




























( XXXV ) 


o. Table A. 


Various Foreign Measures of Length reduced to English Measure. 



English mile. 

Eng. m. 

Furl. 

Yards. 


1 Dutch mile . . = 

3*634= 

3 

0 

16 

or 19* =1° 

1 Belgian post . = 

4*66 = 

4 

4 

61 

14*83=1° 

1 Germ. Geogr. mile = 

4*6 = 

4 

4 

176 

15* =1° 

1 Prussian mile . = 

4*68 = 

4 

5 

96 

14*77=1° 

1 Saxon mile . . = 

4*66 = 

4 

5 

61 

14*83=1° 

1 Hanoverian mile = 

4-6 = 

4 

4 

176 

15* =1° 

1 m. Hesse Darmst. = 

4*66 = 

4 

5 

61 

14*83=1° 


The Prussian or Rhineland foot, which is divided into 12 inches = 12 , 356 
English inches, or 0*31382 metre. The Prussian ell is 25|r Prussian inches 
= 26*256 English inches, or 0*6669 metre. The ruthe is 12 Prussian or Rhine¬ 
land feet = 4*118 English yards. A Prussian mile is 2000 ruthen = 7*532 
kilometres. 

The Dresden foot = 11*24 English inches, or 14 Dresden feet = 13 English 
feet, nearly. 1 Dresden ell = 2 Dresden feet= 1 ft. 10f inch. English, nearly. 
21 Dresden ells =13 English yards. 1 Dresden ruthe = 8 Dresden ells = 4*996 
English yards. 

In Belgium, since 1820, the French decimal system, founded on the metre, 
is generally used. 1 metre = 39*37079 English inches; 1 kilometre = 1093*6331 
English yards; 1 myriametre = 6 miles 5 furlongs 176 yards, English measure; 
1610 metres = 1 English mile. 














* 

( xxxvi ) 

Table B. 

English Money reduced to an equivalent Value in the 


10 


15 


20 


25 


30 


35 


40 


English 

Money. 

United States. 

Austria. 1 

Germany. 

Prussia.2 

£. 

s. 

d. 

Dols. | 

Cts. 

FI. 

Kr. 

Th. 

S. Gr. 

0 

0 

1 

0 

02 

0 

4g 

0 

of 

0 

0 

2 

0 

04 

0 

3 3 

0 

U 

0 

0 

3 

0 

06 

0 

12 j 

0 

2§ 

0 

0 

4 

0 

08 

0 

161 

0 

31 

0 

0 

5 

0 

10 

0 

205 

0 

4 S 

0 

0 

6 

0 

12 

0 

25 

0 

5 

0 

0 

7 

0 

14 

0 

29 h 

0 

51 

0 

0 

8 

0 

16 

0 

331 

0 


0 

0 

9 

0 

18 

0 

37i 

0 

7 3 
' 5 

0 

0 10 

0 

20 

0 

41 =| 

0 

8 2 
° 3 

0 

0 11 

0 

22 

0 

45§ 

0 

q i 
y 3 

0 

1 

0 

0 

24 

0 

50 

0 

10 

0 

2 

0 

0 

49 

1 

0 

0 

20 

0 

3 

0 

0 

73 

1 

50 

1 

0 

0 

4 

0 

0 

97 

2 

0 

1 

10 

0 

5 

0 

1 

21 

2 

50 

1 

20 

0 

6 

0 

1 

46 

3 

0 

2 

0 

0 

7 

0 

1 

70 

3 

50 

2 

10 

0 

8 

0 

1 

94 

4 

0 

2 

20 

0 

9 

0 

2 

18 

4 

50 

3 

0 

0 

10 

0 

2 

43 

5 

0 

3 

10 

0 

11 

0 

2 

67 

5 

50 

3 

20 

0 

12 

0 

2 

91 

6 

0 

4 

0 

0 

13 

0 

3 

16 

6 

50 

4 

10 

0 

14 

0 

3 

40 

7 

0 

4 

20 

0 

15 

0 

3 

64 

7 

50 

5 

0 

0 

16 

0 

3 

88 

8 

0 

5 

10 

0 

17 

0 

4 

13 

8 

50 

5 

20 

0 

18 

0 

4 

37 

9 

0 

6 

0 

0 

19 

0 

4 

61 

9 

50 

6 

10 

1 

0 

0 

4 

86 

10 

0 

6 

20 

2 

0 

0 

9 

71 

20 

0 

13 

10 

3 

0 

0 

14 

57 

30 

0 

20 

0 

4 

0 

0 

19 

42 

40 

0 

26 

20 

5 

0 

0 

24 

28 

50 

0 

33 

10 

6 

0 

0 

29 

13 

60 

0 

40 

0 

7 

0 

0 

33 

99 

70 

0 

46 

20 

8 

0 

0 

38 

84 

80 

0 

53 

10 

9 

0 

0 

43 

70 

90 

0 

60 

0 

10 

0 

0 

48 

56 

100 

0 

66 

20 

20 

0 

0 

97 

11 

200 

0 

133 

10 

30 

0 

0 

145 

67 

300 

0 

200 

0 

40 

0 

0 

194 

22 

400 

0 

266 

20 

50 

0 

0 

242 

78 

500 

0 

333 

10 


10 . 


15. 


20 . 


25 . 


30. 


35. 


40. 


l 100 Kreuzers . . . 

.2 30 Silver Groschen i . 

8 60 Kreuzers . . . 

4 20 Stivers . . 

5 16 Hamburg Shillings 


= to 1 Florin. 
= to 1 Thaler. 
= to 1 Gulden. 
= to 1 Guilder. 
= to 1 Mare. 


































































( Vi ) 

Table B. 


Money of various States on the Continent of Europe. 



Bavaria. 





France.6 


Wiirtemberg. 

Baden. 3 

Holland. 4 

Hamburg. 5 

Belgium. 

Switzerland. 

Italy. 


FI. 

Kr. 

Gui. 

Stiv. 

Mar. 

Sch. 

Fr. 

Cts. 


0 

3 

0 

1 

0 

M 

0 



0 

6 

0 

2 

0 

2? 

0 

23ft 


0 

9 

0 

3 

0 

3f 

0 

31ft 


0 

12 

0 

4 

0 

4f 

0 

41ft 

52ft 

. 5 

0 

15 

0 

5 

0 

5f 

0 


0 

18 

0 

6 

0 

6 j 

0 

62ft 


0 

21 

0 

7 

0 

8 

0 

72{i 


0 

0 

24 

27 

0 

0 

8 

9 

0 

0 

9} 

102 

0 

0 

83ft 

93ft 

4 2 

M2 

.10 

0 

30 

0 

10 

0 

Ilf 

1 


0 

33 

0 

11 

0 

12f 

1 

14 7 


0 

36 

0 

12 

0 

13f 

1 

25 


1 

12 

1 

4 

1 

112 

2 

50 


1 

48 

1 

16 

2 

9J 

3 

75 


2 

24 

2 

8 

3 

6? 

5 

0 


3 

0 

3 

0 

4 

4f 

6 

25 


3 

36 

3 

12 

5 

2? 

7 

50 


4 

12 

4 

4 

6 

0 

8 

75 


4 

48 

4 

16 

6 

13f 

10 

0 

.20 

5 

24 

5 

8 

7 

Ilf 

11 

25 


6 

0 

6 

0 

8 


12 

50 


6 

36 

6 

12 

9 

6f 

13 

75 


7 

12 

7 

4 

10 

4 f 

15 

0 


7 

48 

7 

16 

1 1 

2f 

16 

25 

.25 

8 

24 

8 

8 

12 

0 

17 

50 


9 

0 

9 

0 

12 

13 f 

18 

75 


9 

36 

9 

12 

13 

Ilf 

20 

0 


10 

12 

10 

4 

14 

q i 
u 7 

21 

25 


10 

48 

10 

16 

15 

92 

22 

50 

.30 

11 

24 

11 

8 

16 

4f 

23 

75 


12 

0 

12 

0 

17 

2 f 

25 

0 * 


24 

0 

24 

0 

34 

4f 

50 

0 


36 

0 

36 

0 

51 

6 f 

75 

0 


48 

0 

48 

0 

68 

9 7 

100 

0 

.35 

60 

0 

60 

0 

85 

nf 

125 

0 


72 

0 

72 

0 

102 

13 f 

150 

0 


84 

0 

84 

0 

120 

0 

175 

0 


96 

0 

96 

0 

137 

2 7 

200 

0 


108 

0 

108 

0 

154 


225 

0 

.40 

120 

0 

120 

0 

171 

6 | 

250 

0 


240 

0 

240 

0 

342 

13 f 

500 

0 


360 

0 

360 

0 

514 

4 f 

750 

0 


480 

0 

480 

0 

685 

Ilf 

1000 

0 


600 

0 

600 

0 

857 

2 f 

1250 

0 


a ] 00 Centimes = to 1 Franc. 

If more be received for a pound sterling than is expressed on this scale, it 
will be so much gain by the exchange; if less, it will he so much loss. 

(This is not for the use of merchants, but travellers. , 

[x. G.J C 


5 

10 

15 

20 

25 

30 

35 

40 


































































( xxxviii ) 


Table C. 
PRUSSIAN MONEY, 


Reduced to its Value at par in the Money of 


Prussian Dollars 
courant of 30 
Silver Grosclien. 

Frankfort , 
Nassau, 
Bavaria, §c. 

Florins of 

60 

Kreutzers. 

France and 
Switzerland. 

Francs 

containing 

100 

Centimes 

United States. 

England. 

Pound Sterling 
of 

20 Shillings, 
or 

240 Pence. 

Th. 

G. 

FI. 

Kr. 

Fr. 

C. 

Dols. 

Cts. 

£. s. d. 

— 

1 

— 

3| 

— 

12 

—. 

02 

0 0 1* 

— 

2 


7 

— 

25 

-- 

05 

0 0 2* 

— 

3 

— 

10g 

— 

37 

— 

07 

0 0 3| 

— 

4 

— 

14 

— 

49 

— 

09 

0 0 4f 

— 

5 

— 

17± 

— 

62 

— 

12 

0 0 5g 

— 

6 

— 

21 

— 

74 

— 

14 

0 0 7 

— 

7 

— 

24i 

— 

87 

— 

16 

o o 81 

— 

8 

— 

•28 

— 

99 

— 

19 

0 0 9} 

— ’ 

9 

— 

31f 

1 

11 

— 

21 

0 0 10i 

-- 

10 

— 

35 

1 

23 

— 

23 

0 0 112 

— 

20 

1 

10 

2 

46 

— 

48 

0 1 11* 

1 

_ 

1 

45 

3 

69 

, 

71 

0 2 11 

2 

— 

3 

30 

7 

39 

1 

41 

0 5 10 

3 

— 

5 

15 

11 

8 

2 

12 

0 8 9 

4 

— 

7 

— 

14 

78 

2 

83 

0 11 8 

5 

— 

8 

45 

18 

47 

3 

54 

0 14 7 

6 

T 

10 

30 

22 

17 

4 

25 

0 17 6 

7 

— 

12 

15 

25 

86 

4 

96 

1 0 5 

8 

— 

14 

— 

29 

55 

5 

67 

13 4 

9 

— 

15 

45 

33 

25 

6 

38 

16 3 

10 

—_ 

17 

30 

36 

94 

7 

08 

19 2 

20 

— 

35 

— 

73 

88 

14 

16 

2 18 4 

30 

— 

52 

30 

110 

82 

21 

24 

4 7 6 

40 

— 

70 

— 

147 

76 

28 

32 

5 16 8 

50 

_ 

87 

30 

184 

71 

35 

40 

7 5 10 

60 

— 

105 


221 

65 

42 

48 

8 15 0 

70 

— 

122 

30 

268 

59 

49 

57 

10 4 2 

80 

— 

140 

- 

295 

53 

56 

55 

11 13 4 

90 

— 

157 

oU 

332 

47 

63 

73 

13 2 6 

o 

o 

rH • 


175 

— 

369 

41 

70 

81 

14 11 8 




























( xxxix ) 


Table D. 


MONEY OF NASSAU, FRANKFURT, BADEN, WURTEMBERG, 

BAY ARIA, &c. 

FLORINS, reduced to the Value at par of the Money of 


Florins 

(an pied de 24 11.) 

. of 

60 Kreutzers. 

France. 

Francs of 
100 

Centimes. 

United States. 

Dollars 

of 

100 Cents. 

North Germany. 
Prussia. 
Dollars 
courant of 

30 

Silver 

Grosclien. 

England. 

Founds Sterling 
of 

20 Shillings 
or 

240 Pence. 

FI. 

Kr. 

Fr. 

C. 

Dols. 

Cts. 

T. 

Gr. 

£m 

s. 

d. 

_ 

1 

_ 

4 

— 

01 

-- 

-,3 

0 

0 

0.1 

— 

2 

— 

7 

— 

01 

— 

-,6 

0 

0 

01 

— 

3 

— 

11 


02 

— 

-,9 

0 

0 

1 

— 

4 

— 

14 

” 

03 

— 

1.1 

0 

0 

n 

— 

5 

— 

18 


03 

— 

1,4 

0 

0 

n 

— 

6 

— 

22 

— 

04 

— 

1,7 

0 

0 

2 

— 

7 

— 

25 

_ 

05 

— 

2,- 

0 

0 

21 

— 

8 

— 

29 

— 

05 

— 

2,3 

0 

0 

2J 

_ 

9 

_ 

32 

— 

06 

— 

2,6 

0 

0 

3 

— 

10 

— 

36 

— 

07 

— 

2,9 

0 

0 

3J 

— 

20 

—. 

72 


13 

— 

5,7 

0 

0 

6 i 

— 

30 

1 

8 

— 

20 

— 

8,6 

0 

0 

10 

— 

40 

1 

44 

— 

27 

— 

11,4 

0 

1 

il 

— 

50 

1 

80 

— 

33 

— 

14,3 

0 

1 

42 

1 


2 

15 


40 

_ 

17,1 

0 

1 

8 

2 

_ 

4 

31 

— 

81 

1 

4,3. 

0 

3 

4 

3 

_ 

6 

46 

1 

21 

1 

21,4 

0 

5 

0 

4 

_ 

8 

62 

1 

62 

2 

8,6 

0 

6 

8 

5 

_ 

10 

77 

2 

02 

2 

25,7 

0 

8 

4 

6 

_ 

12 

93 

2 

43 

3 

12,9 

0 

10 

0 

7 

_ 

15 

8 

2 

83 

4 

— 

0 

11 

8 

8 

_ 

17 

24 

3 

24 

4 

17,1 

0 

13 

4 

9 


19 

39 

3 

64 

5 

4,3 

0 

15 

0 

10 

_ 

21 

55 

4 

04 

5 

21,4 

0 

16 

8 

20 

_ . 

43 

10 

8 

10 

11 

12,9 

1 

13 

4 

30 

_ 

64 

65 

12 

14 

17 

4,3 

2 

10 

0 

40 

- , 

86 

20 

16 

19 

22 

25,7 

3 

6 

* 8 

50 

- 

107 

74 

20 

23 

28 

17,1 

4 

3 

4 

60 

_ 

129 

29 

24 

28 

34 

8,6 

5 

0 

0 

70 

_ 

150 

84 

28 

32 

40 

— 

5 

16 

8 

80 

_ 

172 

39 

32 

37 

45 

21,4 

6 

13 

4 

90 

_ 

193 

94 

36 

42 

51 

12,9 

7 

10 

0 

too 

— 

215 

49 

40 

46 

57 

4,3 

8 

6 

8 























LIST OF PLANS. 


4 


Amsterdam. 

Antwerp. 

Brussels. 

Liege. 

Aix-la-Chapelle. 

Cologne.. 

Bonn. 

Coblenz. 

Treves . 

Environs of Treves. 

Hamburg. 

Berlin. 

,, Old Museum. 

,, New Museum. 

Dresden. 

Picture Gallery, Dresden . . . 

Frankfurt a. M. 

Castle of Heidelberg. 

Travelling Clue Map of Germany 


PAGE 

to face 49 
„ 142 

,, lo9 
. 180, 181 
. . 243 


to face 249 
. . 266 

. . 278 

. . 310 

. . 311 


to face 332 




> > 


345 

351 

353 

468 

474 


to face 523 

. . 561 

. at end. 




























A HANDBOOK 

FOR 

TRAVELLERS ON THE CONTINENT. 


SECTION I. 


HOLLAND, or THE NETHERLANDS. 

Introductory Information. 


§ 1 . Passports. — 2. Money. — 3. Custom-house. — 4. Travelling in Holland: Railroads , 
Posting, Diligences, Roads, Maps, — 5, Travelling by Water, Trekschuiten. — 6. 
Drinking Water. — 7. Inns. — 8. General View of Holland .— 9. Dykes .— 10. Canals, 
—11. Polders, Turbaries, and Peat. —12. Dunes. —13. Gardens and Summer¬ 
houses. —14. Dutch School of Painting; Picture Galleries in Holland .— 15, 
Some Peculiarities in Dutch Manners. — 16. Music, Organs ,— 17, Agriculture. 

Routes. 

(In the Table of Contents throughout this hook the names of places are printed ^ 
in italics only in those Routes where they are described .) 


ROUTE PAGE 

1. London to Rotterdam .... 24 

2. Rotterdam to Amsterdam, by 

Delft, the Hague, Leiden, and 
Haarlem—Rail (Ilollandsche- 
Spoorweg).28 

3. Amsterdam to Broek, and the 

Great North Holland Ship Canal. 
Amsterdam to Zaandarn . . 60 

4. Haarlem to the Helder, by Alk- 

maar and Het Nieuwe Diep, 
and back to Amsterdam—Rail 64 

5. Amsterdam or Rotterdam, to 

Cologne, by Utrecht and Arn¬ 
hem [ Nijmegen ], by Cleves, or 
by Oberhausen.70 

6. Amsterdam or Rotterdam to 

Zwolle and Kampen, by Utrecht 
and Amersfoort. Rail . . 73 

7. Amsterdam to Enkhuizen and 

Harlingen (Steamer), Leeu- 
warden (Rail), Groningen, 

Assen, Meppel, and Zwolle 
(Diligence); Pauper Colonies 

of Frederiksoord . 75 

7a. Amsterdam to Zwolle and 
Leeuwarden by Meppel. The 
Pauper Colonies .... 76 


79 


80 

82 

82 

85 


ROUTE PAGE 

8. Groningen to Emden, Leer, and 

Rheine.78 

9. Arnhem to Zutphen, Deventer, 

and Zwolle—Rail . . . 

10. Rotterdam (by Gouda) or Am¬ 
sterdam to Utrecht, Arnhem, 

Zutphen, Salzbergen, Han¬ 
over, Berlin, andN. Germany 

11. The Rhine in Holland (A) 

(a) Rotterdam to Nijmegen 

by the Waal branch . . 

(b) Rotterdam to Arnhem 

by the Lek branch . . . 

12. Rotterdam to Antwerp, by 

Moerdijk [Breda), (Railway) 

(Bois le Due, Tilburg) or 
by Steamer, passing Ber- 

gen-op-Zoom .86 

12a. Roosendaal Stat. to Bergen - 

op-Zoom, Goes, and Flushing 89 

13. Utrecht to Kuilenberg, Herto- 

genbosh (Bois le Due) to 
Eindhoven, Venlo, Roermond, 
and Maestricht . * . . 90 

N.B.—The Rhine from Nijmegen to 
Cologne and Mayence is described 
under Germany. 


§ 1. Passports. 

It is well for an Englishman to be provided with a Foreign Office passport, 
but passports are not required from British subjects travelling in Holland. 

[N. G.] U 

















2 


§ 2, MONEY.— 3. CUSTOM-HOUSE.— 4. TEA YELLING. Sect. I. 


§ 2. Money. 


Accounts are kept in guilders and cents. 

The guilder, or Dutch florin, is worth Is. 8 cl. English. It is divided into 20 
stuivers, and into 100 cents: 1 stuiver = 5 cents, is worth 1 penny English. 

Cents. Stuivers. s. cl. 

The guilder (or Dutch florin) = Germ, florin = 100 = 20 
^ guilder = 50 = 10 

Silver] \ guilder (called Vijfjes or Quartjes) = 25 = 5 

T ' n guilder or dubbeltje 


Coins. 


Stuiver or ^ guilder 


50 

25 

10 

5 

250 


2 

1 

50 


1 

0 

0 

0 

0 

4 


8 

10 

5 

2 

1 

o 


Jlixdollar (Rijksdaaldcr) =2% guilders 

v (Munt-Biljet (Mint-notes) of 10, 50, and 100 guilders. 

f f aper Bank-Bil)et (Bank-notes) of 25, 40, 60, 100, 200, 300, 500, and 1000 

Money. J gu iia e rs. 

By the above table it will be seen that, at par, the sovereign is worth 12 
guilders ; the value of gold, however, being depreciated in Holland, the average 
exchange is not more than 11 guilders 60 cents. 

The difference between cents and centimes should be borne in mind. Cent, a 
Dutch coin, is the Tj | g of a guilder, or of Is. 8 d. Centime, a French coin, is 
the part of a franc, or of 1 0d. The cent is equal to 2 centimes, and is worth i 
of a penny English. The guilder is worth 2 French francs 5 sous, and is the 
same as the German florin (24 to the mark of silver). 

Travellers should provide themselves with Dutch money at Rotterdam, or at 
the first town of Holland they enter, as French coins are not cur-rent here as they 
are in Belgium. The new Dutch coins are current also in Belgium, and up tho 
Rhine as far as Cologne. 


3. Custom-house. 




The Dutch custom-house officers are usually civil, and by no means trouble¬ 
some in examining the baggage of persons not travelling with merchandise. A 
small fee here, as elsewhere, to the subordinate officer may expedite and tend to 
lighten the search in the traveller’s portmanteau, but civility and a readiness to 
lay open the baggage is better still. As a general rule in this and other countries 
of the continent, persons travelling in their own carnage are subjected to very 
little inconvenience from the custom-house officers. 


§ 4. Travelling in Holland—Railroads, Diligences, Roads, and Maps. 

The English and French languages are generally understood at the best inns 
and by the inhabitants of the principal Dutch towns. Let the stranger, how¬ 
ever, be on his guard against the voluntary guides and hotel-touters who infest 
Railway stations, steamboat wharves, &c. They are, for the most part, consum¬ 
mate blackguards (many are J ews), and will at least fleece the traveller, if they 
do not lead him into disreputable places. The Inns which they recommend 
should be carefully avoided. 

Railroads (Ijzeren-spoorweg) are opened from Amsterdam to Haarlem the 
Hague, and Rotterdam; Amsterdam to Rotterdam by Gouda and Arnhem to 
Utrecht; Alkmaarto thellelder; Amsterdam to Utrecht and to Arnhem ; thence 
to Germany either via Emmerich and Oberhausen to Hanover, or by Sevenaar 
and Cleves to Cologne; Rotterdam by steamer to Moerdyk, and thence bv rail to 
the Belgian frontier, to Antwerp and Breda. From Breda to Tilburg, Boxtol 
and Bergen-op-Zoom. From Arnhem to Zutphen and Deventer, thence (1866) 








3 


Holland. § 4, 5. travelling in Holland. 

to Zwolle; from Harlingen to Leeuwarden, thence ( 1866 ) to Groningen, Leer, 
and Zwolle: Hasselt to Roermonde and Maestricht. The Dutch railways are 
generally well managed, and the station-houses well arranged. 2nd-class 
carriages are protected from the weather. Vigilantes (cabs) and omnibuses ply to 
and from the stations. Travellers, however, must be on their guard aa-ainst 
Dutch cabmen, who generally make an extortionate demand on foreign fares: 
they should be made to produce their tariff ( tarief ), which they often remove 
from sight when strangers hire their cabs. The porters on the Dutch railways 
are not by law entitled to any gratuity. 

On the Dutch railways only 40 lbs. of luggage allowed; all above this must be 
paid for. 

The lines from Rotterdam to Amsterdam deserve the attention of the 
engineer, from the number of canals which they have to cross, which pre¬ 
sented considerable difficulties, overcome by ingenious expedients, such as rolling 
and swing bridges. A large part of the lines is founded on piles, often under 
water, and the roadway is laid on faggots bound together by stakes and 
wattles. 

Posting. —The posting regulations introduced into Holland by the French 
have been abolished, owing to the increased facilities of railway travelling. Job 
carriages and horses can be hired in the large towns, as in England, but in such 
cases, as there are no government regulations, a bargain must be struck before¬ 
hand, according to the distance. The charge per post for 2 horses and driver 
ought not to exceed 2 guilders. 

The Dutch post is somewhat less than 5 English miles. The Dutch league 
(ure gaans), or the distance a man will walk in an horn, is 5555 metres = Sj? 
English miles. 

Diligences. —On all the great roads, which have no competing railroad, nume¬ 
rous diligences run several times a-day. They are very precise in the time 
of starting. They belong to private individuals or companies licensed by 
Government. The best are those of Van Gend and Loos; they are roomy and 
convenient, and travel at the rate of about 6 miles an hour. If more persons 
apply for places than can be accommodated in the coach, an additional car¬ 
riage, or “ by-chaise,” is prepared, by which the passenger may proceed at the 
same rate of fare as by the main diligence. 

A job carnage (glaswagen) with 2 horses may be hired for 14 guilders per 
diem. The average expense of a hired carriage and horses is about one-fourth 
less than in England. 

Roads. —The high roads connecting the principal towns and villages of 1ST. and 
S. Holland are generally paved with bricks, and are excellent. The cross roads 
consist merely of loose sand, and are wretchedly bad, and in wet weather barely 
passable. There, are no stones in a large part of Holland; but the want of 
stones is supplied by a small and tough kind of brick called klinker, which, 
after the foundation of the road is levelled, are placed edgewise close together, 
and the interstices filled with sand, so as to form a hard, smooth, and level 
highway, very pleasant to travel over. The average cost of making such a road 
is about 17,000 guild., more than 1400/., per English mile. As all heavy goods 
are conveyed by water or rail, the wear and tear on the roads, traversed almost 
entirely by light carriages, is not very great. In many parts the roads run on 
the tops of the dykes; and, as there are no parapets or railings, there is at least 
the appearance of danger, and accidents sometimes happen. 

The tolls are very high, sometimes equalling in one stage the expense of one 
post-horse. A carriage with 4 wheels and 2 horses pays from 6 to 8 stivers at 
each turnpike; and a toll generally occurs every 3 miles English. The passage 
money for crossing ferries is also high. 

The best English Map of Holland and Belgium is that published by Mr. John 
Arrowsmith. 

B 2 



4 


§ 5 . TRAVELLING BY WATER—TREIiSCHIJITEN. 


Sect, I, 


§ 5. Travelling by Water—Treksciiuiten. 

The canals of Holland are as numerous as roads in other countries, and afford 
the most abundant means of conveyance in every direction. 

Barges, called Trekschuiten (drag-boats), navigate the canals, and convey 
passengers and goods: they are nearly filled by a long low cabin, divided by a 
partition into two parts; the fore-cabin, called raim, appropriated to servants 
and common people; and the after-cabin, or rocf , set apart for the better 
classes, and a little more expensive; it is smaller, and will contain 8 or 10 per¬ 
sons. The roef has a small open space at the stern, where you can stand upright 
and breathe the air beside the steersman. It is generally fitted up with neatness, 
and may he engaged by a party exclusively for their own use. The barge is 
more commodious for night travelling and less fatiguing than the diligence, and 
the traveller may enjoy a comfortable sleep, provided the gnats permit. It 
must, however, he understood that Dutch people of any station rarely resort to 
the trekschuit. 

The to wing-horse is ridden by a lad (het jagertje), who receives a few cents at 
each stage, and is well paid with a stiver. It is amusing to observe how 
quickly and neatly he passes the numerous bridges, disengaging the towing-rope, 
and fastening it again, without impeding the progress of the vessel. Whenever 
the barge approaches another coming in a contrary direction, the boatmen ex¬ 
change the two monosyllables “ buy” and “ vull,” indicating which is to go to 
the right and which to the left, and the one drops his rope for the other to pass 
over. 

The advantages of the trekschuit are principally its cheapness. The usual 
cost of travelling by it is about a stiver a mile. 

Its disadvantages are—1st, That it rarely travels faster than 4 miles an hour; 
2ndly, Though the banks of the canal are often enlivened by gardens and villas, 
yet it sometimes happens that they are so high as to shut out all view, which is 
very tiresome and monotonous; 3rdly, The annoyance of tobacco smoke, and 
bad smells from the water in hot weather; and 4thly, The trekschuit almost 
invariably stops on the outside of the town to which it is bound, and does not 
enter it: hence you have sometimes to walk more than a mile to reach an inn, 
and are compelled to intrust your luggage to porters, who, though they do not 
deserve the character of thieves, which Mrs. Starke bestowed on them, are at 
least exorbitant in their charges; so that you are compelled to pay sometimes 
twice as much for the carriage of a portmanteau and bag into a town as for the 
whole passage by the boat. 

Passengers proceeding to Germany vi& Rotterdam should not be induced by 
the cheapness of the fare to take through tickets by the Rhine steamers, as they 
leave early in the morning, so that passengers will probably have to wait a 
whole day at Rotterdam. On board the steamers of the Netherlands’ Company 
passengers are not allowed to sleep at night, but must go on shore (unless they 
have hired a private cabin), so that the expense at the journey’s end is as great 
as if they had travelled by rail. It is seldom, however, that the London steamers 
arrive in the summer too late for the express train to Germany (12*15), so 
that passengers can, if they wish, proceed at once without entering a Dutch 
hotel, and arrive at Bonn the same evening. Here commences that portion of 
the Rhine which ought not to be missed; between Bonn and Rotterdam the 
river journey is generally considered wearisome and monotonous. 

The railways now established and extending through Holland will gradually 
divert much of the traffic from the old channel of the slow canal and trekschuit * 
still, notwithstanding all the drawbacks, for the mere novelty of the thing', 
no one should visit Holland without making trial of this, the national con¬ 
veyance. On a fine day it is a very agreeable mode of travelling. 


Holland. § 6 . water.— 7 . inns.—8. general view. 6 

Excepting on the lines where railways are opened, the communication is kept 
up constantly between all the great towns of Holland and the intervening places 
by trekschuits. A boat sets out several times a day, starting with the greatest 
punctuality; and if a passenger be not on board at the stroke of the clock, he runs 
a risk of losing his passage. 


§ 6. Drinking Water, 

In the provinces of the Netherlands bordering on the sea the water is generally 
very had, not drinkable; and strangers should be careful to avoid it altogether, 
except externally, or they may suffer from bowel complaints, and be delayed on 
their journey. In many parts good drinking water is brought in large stone bot¬ 
tles from Utrecht; so that Utrecht water must he asked for at inns. As a sub¬ 
stitute for spring water, the effervescent waters of Seltzer, Geilnau, and Fachin- 
gen, all coming from the Brunnen of Nassau, are much drunk at meals; a large 
bottle costs about 5 d. A very agreeable beverage is formed by mixing these 
waters with Rhenish or Moselle wine and sugar: some consider red Bordeaux 
wine, or a little lemon-juice and sugar, added to the Seltzer water, a more palat¬ 
able drmk. Amsterdam is now well supplied by a water company from Utrecht. 

§ 7. Inns—CafAs. 

Holland is an expensive country to live in; the florin (guilder) does not 
go much further than the franc in Belgium or France ; the wages of labour and 
taxes are very high; the inns are consequently nearly as dear as in England. 
Notwithstanding this, excepting the very best, they are inferior to those of 
most other countries of Western Europe. Dutch inns and beds are, however, 
generally clean. 

Charge s.—A hed-room, which may also be used as a sitting-room, costs, on an 
average, from 1 to 3 guilders; dinner at the table-d’hote, If to 2f guilders ; 
ditto in private, 2 to 3 guilders; breakfast with tea or coffee, 70 cents. Service 
h guilder per diem. The dinner-hour, at tables-d’hote is usually 4 o’clock. 

The waiter is called Jan throughout Holland. 

From f to f a guilder is charged in the bills for the servants daily; but the 
cleaning of shoes and clothes is done by commissionaires , who also serve as 
laquais de place. They are amply paid with If or 2 guilders for a whole 
day’s services, and with 1 guilder for f a day. The Porter (Kruijer), who carries 
luggage from the coach or railway oflice to the inn, or vice versa, will expect 
25 cents. Omnibus fare is the same. 

Cafe's in Holland are not resorted to by ladies. If you want an ice you must 
repair to the confectioner, where they are good and moderate. 


§ 8. A GENERAL VIEW OF HOLLAND. 

There is not, perhaps, a country in Europe which will more surprise an in¬ 
telligent traveller than Holland. Although so near to our coasts, and so easily 
accessible, it is too often passed over by the English in their haste to reach the 
picturesque scenes of the Rhine and Switzerland. The attractions of Holland 
are certainly of a different kind; but they are of a character so entirely peculiar, 
that, whether a traveller visit this country at the outset or termination of his 
tour, he will be equally sure to find in it what he has not seen before. 

The routes from Rotterdam to Amsterdam, and thence to Cologne, described 
in the following pages, may he fully explored in a week or ten days ; and there 




6 


Sect. I. 


§ 8. GENERAL VIEW OF HOLLAND. 

are few roads in Europe which in so small a space have so many curiosities 
to show, and upon which lie so many cities, great in commerce and renowned, in 
history. To a stranger Holland appears hardly endurable as a countiy to reside 
in, hut for a journey of a week the universal flatness and the monotony of 
scenery are not tiresome. The aspect of the country is 'too strange to fatigue, 
and, indeed, in sunny weather, is very fertile in picturesque effects. 

A large part of Holland is a delta, formed of the alluvium deposited hy the 
Rhine and other rivers, in the same manner as the Delta of Egypt has been 
formed by the Nile. The greater portion of it has been perseveringly rescued 
from the water, to whose dominion it may almost he said to belong, hy the con¬ 
tinual efforts and ingenuity of man, and in a long series of years. Much of it is 
mud driven up hy the sea, in return for what it carries away from some parts of 
the coast. Were human agency and care removed hut for 6 months, the waves 
would, without doubt, regain their ancient dominion—so much of the land lies 
below the level of the sea; and an extensive tract of the country would he 
reduced to the state of those vast wastes, composed of sand and mud-banks, 
quite unfit for human habitation, which now lie at the mouths of the Nile and 
Mississippi. And yet these fields, gained with such difficulty, and preserved by 
constant watchfulness, from the waters, have been, in more instances than one, 
inundated by their owners during their contests with foreign foes; and Dutch 
patriotism has not hesitated to subject the land to temporary ruin in the desire 
of preserving liberty. The cutting of the dykes, and opening of the sluice-gates, 
which was resorted to in order to free Holland from Spanish tyranny, was a 
desperate resource, and in itself a national calamity, entailing beggary for some 
years upon a large portion of the population, owing to the length of time and 
the very great expense which a second recovery of the land from the sea required. 
This glorious sacrifice, however, served to show that it needs not the mountains 
of Switzerland nor the fastnesses of Tyrol to enable a brave people to defend 
their native land. 

Holland may he considered in many respects as the most wonderful countiy, 
perhaps, under the sun: it is certainly unlike every other. What elsewhere 
would he considered as impossible has here been carried into effect, and incon¬ 
gruities have been rendered consistent. “ The house built upon the sand” may 
here he seen standing; neither Amsterdam nor Rotterdam has any better foun¬ 
dation than sand, into which piles are driven through many feet of superincum¬ 
bent hog earth ; and to form a correct idea of these and other wonderful cities 
and towns standing on the morass, one must not forget the millions of solid beams 
hidden under ground which support them. We speak contemptuously of any¬ 
thing which is held together by straws, yet a long line of coast of several pro¬ 
vinces is consolidated hy no other means than a few reeds intermixed with straw 
wisps, or woven, into mats. Without this frail hut effectual support, the fickle 
dunes, or sand-hills, would he driven about into the interior, and would over¬ 
whelm whole districts of cultivated land. In Holland the laws of nature seem 
to he reversed; the sea is higher than the land; the lowest ground in the country 
is 24 feet below high-water mark, and, when the tide is driven high by the wind, 
30 feet! In no other country do the keels of the ships float above the chimneys 
of the houses, and nowhere else does the frog, croaking from among the bul¬ 
rushes, look down upon the swallow on the house-top. Where rivers take their 
course, it is not in hods of then’ own choosing; they are compelled to pass 
through canals, and are confined within fixed hounds hy the stupendous mounds 
imposed on them hy human art , which has also succeeded in overcoming the 
everywhere else resistless impetuosity of the ocean: here, and nowhere else 
does the sea appear to have half obeyed the command, “ Thus far shalt thou go! 
and no farther.” 

In a veiy extensive district the canals are brimful of water, which can hardly 
stir, and, when in motion, flows with a current barely perceptible. There is not 


Holland. 


§ 8. GENERAL VIEW OF HOLLAND. 7 

a stone or pebble to be found, and there are no hills, save such as are raised by 
the winds; unless, indeed, we take into consideration those vast artificial moun¬ 
tains of granite, which have been brought at enormous expense from Norway 
and Sweden, and sunk under water to serve as barriers to the sea. Excepting 
the eastern provinces, the parks of Haarlem and the Hague, and the avenues 
leading from one city to another, the land does not produce much wood; but 
then entire Norwegian forests have been buried beneath the mud in the shape of 
piles. “ The total of the hydraulic works between the Dollart and the Schelde 
have been estimated by a competent judge to have cost 300,000,000/. sterling, 
and form in so small a country a most astonishing monument of human industry.” 
— Telford. 

The constant attention which a Dutchman has been obliged to give to main¬ 
taining in perfect order the great works on which his safety depends, and the 
artificial nature of the country itself which he has formed for his residence and 
support, has given a formal and methodical direction to his tastes in cases where 
Nature would have been better left to herself. Thus trees are often found grow¬ 
ing, not in the natural way, but as they have been arranged by the plummet and 
line, in rank and file in straight rows and avenues. Their branches are not 
allowed to spread abroad as nature intended, but are cut and clipped till they 
are transformed into green walls, or are even trained into more grotesque 
shapes. By way of improving still further upon nature, the trunks and. 
lower branches are sometimes painted over with bright colours in North 
Holland, partly for the sake of cleanliness, partly to preserve them from 
insects. 

The Dutchman may be said to have made even the wind his slave. It might 
be supposed that the universal flatness, and the absence of those elevations which 
afford shelter to other countries, would leave this at the mercy of every blast that 
blows, to sweep everything before it. So far is this from being the case, that not 
a breath of air is allowed to pass without paying toll, as it were, by turning a wind¬ 
mill. These machines are so numerous in N. and S. Holland, that they may be 
said to be never out of sight in a Dutch landscape. In the suburbs of great cities 
they are congregated like armies of giants spreading out their broad arms, as if 
to protect the streets and houses which they overlook. With us they are rarely 
used except to grind com: in Holland they are employed almost as variously as 
the steam-engine ; they saw timber, crush rape-seeds for oil, grind snuff, beat 
hemp, &c.; but the principal sendee which they perform is in draining the land; 
and here the Dutch have most ingeniously set the wind to counteract the water. 
At least one half of the windmills have water-wheels attached to them, which act 
as pumps, and, by constantly raising the water into the canals, alone keep the 
low land dry and fit for cultivation and the habitation of man. As, however, 
experience has shown that a first-rate mill is advantageously applied to raise 
water only 1 ell (=3*28 ft.) at once, 3 or 4 are often planted in a row on 
stages one above the other, each pumping up the water to the stage above it. 
They are constructed of much larger dimensions than with us: a single sail 
is often 120 feet long, and the usual length is 80 feet. There are said to be 
9000 windmills in Holland, and the annual cost of them is valued at 3,600,000 
dollars. 

To sum up all, to such an extent do paradoxes prevail in Holland, that even 
the cows' tails , in other countries proverbial for growing downwards, and descend¬ 
ing in the world as they advance in age, here grow upwards: for, with the view 
of promoting the cleanliness of the animal while in the stall, the tail is tied up 
to a ring in the roof of the stable. This may be seen in Broek and elsewhere in 
Holland. ( See Boute 3.) 

Many authors have exercised their wit or spleen in describing this singular 
country. Thus, Voltaire took leave of the land and people in these sarcastic 
words: “Adieu! canaux, canards, canaille.” 



8 


Sect. T. 


§ 8. GENERAL VIEW OF HOLLAND. 

The following verses are from the works of Andrew Marvel:— 

“ Holland, that scarce deserves the name of land. 

As but the offscouring of the British sand, 

And so much earth as was contributed 
By English pilots when they heav’d the lead; 

Or what by the ocean’s slow alluvion fell, 

Of shipwreck’d cockle and the muscle-shell; 

This indigested vomit of the sea 
Fell to the Dutch by just propriety. 


“ Glad, then, as miners who have found the ore, 
They, with mad labour, fish’d the land to shore, 
And div’d as desperately for each piece 
Of earth, as if’t had been of ambergris; 

Collecting anxiously small loads of clay, 

Less than what building swallows bear away; 

Or than those pills which sordid beetles roll. 
Transfusing into them their dunghill soul. 

“ How did they rivet with gigantic piles, 

Thorough the centre their new-catched miles! 

And to the stake a struggling country bound, 
Where barking waves still bait the forced ground ; 
Building their watery Babel far more high 
To reach the sea, than those to scale the sky. 

“ Yet still his claim the injur’d Ocean lay’d, 

And oft at leap-frog o’er their steeples play’d ; 

As if on purpose it on land had come 
To show them what’s their mare liberum. 

“ A daily deluge over them does boil; 

The earth and water play at level coil. 

The fish ofttimes the burgher dispossess’d. 

And sat, not as a meat, but as a guest; 

And oft the tritons and the sea-nvmphs saw 
Whole shoals of Dutch serv’d up for Cabillau; 

Or, as they over the new level rang'd, 

For pickled herring, pickled herring chang’d. 
Nature, it seem’d, asham’d of her mistake, 

Would throw their land away at duck and drake.’ ’ 


The author of 1 Hudibras ’ describes Holland as 

“ A country that draws fifty feet of water, 

In which men live as in the hold of nature. 

And w'hen the sea does in upon them break, 

And drowns a province, does but spring a leak.” 

And its inhabitants— 

“ That always ply the pump, and never think 
They can be safe, but at the rate they sink : 

That live as if they had been run aground, 

And when they die are cast away and drown’d: 

That dwell in ships, like swarms of rats, and prey 
Upon the goods all nations’ fleets convey; 

And when their merchants are blown up and crack’d, 
W’hole towns are cast away in storms, and wrack’d; 
That feed, like cannibals, on other fishes, 

And serve their cousin-germans up in dishes. 

A land that rides at anchor, and is moor’d, 

In which they do not live, but go aboard.”— Butler. 



No books can be read with greater pleasure or advantage by a stranger about 
to visit Holland, desiring information respecting the historv, than ^MotW’, 
‘ Rise of the Dutch Republic/ and ‘ United Netherlands.’ ' ^ 


Holland. 


§ 9. DYKES. 


9 


§ 9. Dykes. 

Holland includes some of the lowest land on the continent of Europe. To 
keep out the ocean from the sea-hound provinces, and prevent its acquiring 
territory which seems to he its own, immense dykes or ramparts of earth and 
stone are raised along the coast, so broad and strong a 3 to prevent the water 
passing through them, and sufficiently lofty to hid defiance to inundation at high 
tide. The rivers and inland lakes in many parts of the country are quite as 
dangerous as the sea, and their waters require to be restrained by dykes nearly 
as extensive as the sea-dykes. 

The first thing necessary in the construction of these bulwarks is, to secure a 
solid foundation, sufficiently strong to support the immense weight to be laid 
upon it, by ramming down the soil, and by laying a substratum of clay, or by 
driving in piles when it is incoherent. Were the foundation porous, the water 
would undermine it, and the dykes sink down into a hollow. The foimdation 
of a sea-dyke is from 120 to 150 feet in width. The rampart itself is composed, 
as far as possible, of clay: whenever that material is difficult to procure, the face 
of the dyke is made of clay, and the interior of earth, sand, and clay; but clay 
alone is preferred, as being water-proof. The face of the dyke on the water side 
is made to slope very gradually: in river dykes generally rising 1 foot in 4 or 6, 
and in the great sea-dyke of Kappel still more gradually, or 1 foot in 13. This 
very gradual slope is owing, both to the loose nature of material used, and to an 
opinion that it is better to allow the force of the wave to expend itself over a 
long incline. The dyke is protected, or in a manner thatched, by willow twigs 
interwoven so as to form a sort of wicker-work, and the interstices are filled up 
with clay puddled to render it compact. This wicker-work is renewed eveiy 
throe or four years, occasioning a considerable consumption of willow boughs, 
and the willow-tree is cultivated to a great extent for this purpose. The dykes 
are frequently planted with trees, as their spreading and interlacing roots assist 
greatly in binding the earth together. The base is often faced with masonry 
and protected by vast heaps of stones usually brought from Norway, and by rows 
of piles 16 feet long, projecting 6 or 7 feet above ground, connected by timber, 
and filled in with fascines weighted with stones: the upper part of the dyke is 
covered with turf, and rises sometimes to the height of 40 feet. A road runs 
along the top, or immediately within it. 

“ The dykes, when seen only at one spot, may probably not strike the merely 
cursory observer as very extraordinary; but when it is recollected that tho 
greater part of Holland is fenced in by similar bulwarks equally massive and 
costly, they will appear wonderful.”— I. W. C. The most stupendous of these 
embankments are the Dykes of the Helder (see Route 4), and of West Kappel, 
at the W. extremity of the island of Walcheren (see Route 18). The annual 
expense of keeping in repair each of them alone amounts to 75,000 guilders 
(about 6400/.) ; while the sum total annually expended throughout Holland in 
the repair of dykes and regulation of water-levels varies from 5,000,000 to 
7,000,000 guilders (nearly 600,000/.). A special corps of engineers called Water- 
staat, including among them many men of science, having received a special 
instruction in the new college at Delft, are employed entirely in watching the 
state of the waters and guarding against all accidents from irruptions,—a most 
important duty, upon -which the national welfare, and, indeed, existence, of 
Holland may be said to depend. Dining the winter they are stationed near 
those spots where danger is most to be apprehended, and magazines are erected, 
provided with the necessaiy stores and implements, so as to be ready at a mo¬ 
ment’s notice. 

The winter is the season most liable to accidents, when it not unfrequently 
happens that long prevailing S.W. winds, acting on the surface of the Atlantic, 
drive an accumulation of waters round the north of Scotland into the German 
Ocean. If these are succeeded by very violent tempests blowing from the N.W., 

B 3 


Sect. I. 


10 § 9. DYKES. 

the effect is, to pi'opel the sea with great violence southward through the British 
Channel: but the straits of Dover are too narrow to admit the augmented body 
of water readily to pass, and in consequence it falls back upon the coast of Hol¬ 
land. At such moments the “ broad ocean” may truly be said “to lean against 
the land,” and the strength of the dykes alone preserves it from submersion. 
To guard against such an assault the utmost energy, activity, and skill are 
required. Watchmen are posted day and night along the line of threatened 
attack, to give instantaneous warning if symptoms of weakness are anywhere 
observed in the ramparts ; and workmen are appointed by the authorities to be 
in readiness in the neighbouring villages. 

It may easily be imagined with what intense anxiety the rising tide is, at such 
times, observed. The accumulation of waters in the ocean causes them to ascend 
far above the ordinary high-water mark; and if they only surmount the top of 
the dyke so as to flow over it, its ruin is inevitable. When such a calamity is 
anticipated, the alarm bell is rung, and every man hastens to his post. With 
the utmost rapidity, an upper rampart is constructed upon the top of the dyke, 
to keep out the waters. It is incredible in how short a time a bulwark of this 
kind is elevated; it is a race between the tide and the embankment. If the 
strength and solidity of the dyke be doubtful, and a breach be apprehended, 
large sheets of sailcloth or mats of woven straw and rushes are laid on the out¬ 
side, in the same manner as a leak is sometimes stopped in a ship. This prevents 
the earth’s being washed away by the action of the waves. It must be remem¬ 
bered that the works, raised at such an emergency, vast as they are, are only 
temporary, and are removed whenever the clanger is past. Instances are not 
rare in which these precautions have proved quite ineffectual; and whole dis¬ 
tricts have been overwhelmed and lost for ever in the sea, or in the Rhine and 
its branches. The greater part of the space now occupied by the Zuider Zee 
was dry land down to the 13th century. In the time of the Romans the IJssel 
emptied itself into the lake Flevo. Beyond this lake, to the S. and W., the 
Zuider Zee, then also a fresh-water lake, discharged itself by a river, the Vlie, 
which followed nearly the present channel of that name, entering the ocean 
between what are now the islands of Ylieland and Ter-schelling. The action of 
the waters gradually destroyed the tract of land which divided these lakes. In 
1170, during a great flood, the waters of the southern lake rose to the gates of 
Utrecht, and the lake was greatly extended, especially towards the N. West 
Friesland, it is said, however, still stretched across the Zuider Zee from Petten 
and Medemblick to the Lauwer Zee. From that time, for upwards of 200 years, 
it continued to increase, swallowing up “ whole forests and many thousand acres 
of land, so that large ships might be navigated where carriages used to travel.” 
At last, in 1396, Lake Flevo entirely disappeared, the existing islands were 
formed, or completely separated from the mainland, and the Zuider Zee con¬ 
verted into an arm of the German Ocean. The Gulf of Dollart, in the province 
of Groningen, was the result of the inundation of 1277, which swallowed up 44 
villages. Similar calamities have several times produced the same effects in that 
province. Even so late as 1717, 1560 habitations disappeared beneath the 
waters of the ocean, which had thus broken its bounds. The Biesbosch near 
Dort, and the sandbanks near South Beveland, called Verdronken Land (dawned 
land), are two other examples of submerged districts. 

Of all the united provinces, Friesland and Groningen have suffered and 
continue to suffer, most from floods. The annals of Friesland present the 
most extraordinary series of disasters from the ocean, and these better 
than anything else, will serve to show by what an unstable tenure the 
Dutch hold the land. “ Friesland was inundated in 533 792 806 839 
1164, 1170, 1210, 1221, 1230, 1237 (this year the island called Ylieland 
was formed), 1248, 1249, 1250 (the consequence of this inundation was a 
pestilence, which destroyed several thousand persons), 1277 (this year the 
Gulf of Dollart was formed)—in 1287 the Zuider Zee assumed its present ex- 


11 


Holland. § 9. dykes.—inundations of the thine. 

tent and shape, and 80,000 persons lost their lives in the inundation—1336, 
1400, 1421, 1429, 1516, 1524 (three inundations in this year), 1530, 1532, 1559, 
1570. On Nov. 1 an inundation occurred which covered even the heights 
called Wieren, and cut off, in different parts of Holland, 100,000 persons, 30,000 
of whom were Frieslanders. From this year the inundations are less frequent; 
as an improved method of constructing the dykes was then introduced by the 
Spanish governor Robles, who at the same time passed a law that they should 
in future be kept up by the owners of the land. Those recorded since 1570 
were in 1610, 1675, 1717, 1776, Feb. 5, 1825, and Mar. 1 , 1855.” — Gauthier , 
Voyageur dans les Pays-Bas. 

Rut Holland is exposed to far greater danger from internal inundations than 
even from inroads of the sea, arising from the stopping up of the rivers by the 
ice when the thaw sets in. All the ice of the Rhine and Meuse must necessarily 
pass the Dutch rivers ; if then it happens that the ice on the German Rhine get 
loose before the Dutch rivers are free, or if the ice is stopped in its course in a 
narrow part, it forms itself into one solid dam, stretching across from one bank 
to the other, sometimes 2 miles or more in length, adhering closely to the bed of 
the river and rising in icebergs high above its surface, so as to arrest the passage of 
the water, which, as it rises, must necessarily overflow the dykes behind it. In 
1799, when the very existence of a large part of Holland was threatened by an 
inundation from this source, more formidable perhaps than any other on record, 
the Rhine rose at Nijmegen 7 feet in one hour; and when the accumulated waters 
at last broke the ice-dam, they hurried down icebergs so tall as to conceal the 
houses of Nijmegen from the view of those on the opposite bank. At the mo¬ 
ment the dam burst, the river was filled with ice to the bottom, which, as it 
scraped along, carried off the gravel with it. So extensive and numerous were 
the dyke ruptures that a large part of Holland on both banks of the Rhine and 
Waal was laid under water; the icebergs crossed the polders, sweeping away 
houses built on the dykes, and the loss of life of men and cattle was enormous. 
Holland is much more liable to river inundation since the improvements in the 
course of the Upper Rhine and the removal of the impediments at the Bingen 
Loch, as more water now passes in a given time than formerly. The danger 
now recurs every winter, especially when a hard frost, during which much snoAv 
has fallen in Germany, is followed by a sudden thaw. 

The arms of one of the United Provinces is a lion swimming, with the motto, 
Luctor, et emergo, “ I strive, and keep my head above water.” It might 
be generally applied to the whole country, which has to maintain a perpetual 
struggle for existence against difficulties never to be entirely removed. 
The inhabitant of the provinces bordering on the sea or the Rhine, constantly 
threatened with the danger of submersion, is not more secure than he who 
! dwells on the side of Etna, or at the foot of Vesuvius, with a volcano 
heaving beneath him . A stranger can have a full impression of this only 
when he walks at the foot of one of those vast dykes, and hears the roar 
of the waves on the outside, 16 or" 20 feet higher than his head. Some 
parts of the countiy lie several feet below the actual bed of the Rhine; 
as, for instance, the Ablasserwaard, near Gorcum, Indeed, the industry 
of the early inhabitants of Holland in restraining their rivers between dykes, so 
as to prevent periodical inundations, threatens their descendants with a serious 
calamity at no distant period. It is the nature of all rivers liable to inundation 
to deposit great part of the sullage on their immediate banks, and raise them 
higher than the morass behind. Their beds, too, are continually raised by the 
deposit of the earthy particles mechanically suspended in the water. Hence the 
Rhine and other great rivei’s now flow along the ridges of great causeways or 
natural embankments formed of the deposit brought down by them in the course 
of ages, and far higher than the surrounding country. This must in all pro¬ 
bability be broken through some day or other, and the Rhine will find a new 
outlet to the sea. The same effect may be seen in the Po and Adige. See 
Handbook for N. Italy. 




12 § 10. CANALS.—11. polders. Sect. 1. 

The expense of maintaining the dykes is supported by taxes levied by com¬ 
missioners appointed for the purpose. 

§ 10. Canals. 

Holland is so intersected with canals, that to a person looking down upon it 
from a balloon they would have the appearance of a network extending from one 
end of the country to the other. They serve, 1st, as the means of communica¬ 
tion ; every little town and village having its own system of canals, which con¬ 
nect it with all the places around. 2dly, as drains to carry off the superfluous 
water of the country. 3dly, in the place of walls and hedges: fields, gardens, 
and houses are surrounded by canals or moats, as in other countries by fences ; 
and they afford an equally good protection. 

The canals differ considerably from those of England, which are measured out 
so as barely to admit two narrow barges to pass, and interrupted at short dis¬ 
tances by locks. In Holland, as the canal is the drain as well as the highway 
of the country, and rids the land of its superabundant moisture, there is no re¬ 
striction to its breadth; and as there is little variation of level, few locks are 
required: but those canals which empty themselves into the sea are provided 
with sluice-gates to prevent the influx of the tides, which are often higher than 
the waters of the canal itself. 

The several heights of the waters of Holland are referred to the Amsterdam 
Pile, which is considered to have been the mean height of the water in the 
in the century before last, but high water in those days was 2 or 3 inches above 
the present level. 

The principal canals are 60 ft. broad and 6 ft. deep. Not only the surface, 
but even the bottom, is frequently higher than the adjoining land. The North 
Holland ship canal is truly one of the marvels of the country, and should be 
viewed by every traveller who visits Amsterdam. In its dimensions it is the 
largest not only in Holland but in Europe (Route 3). 

The discovery of the lock, an invention altogether modern, and which has 
given an entirely new feature to the inland navigation of Europe, has been 
claimed both by the Italians and the Dutch. “ There is strong reason to believe 
that in Holland the lock was known, and in use, at least a century before its 
application in Italy.”— Telford : Edin. Cgd. Inclined planes for transferring 
vessels from one level to another, similar to those in China, under the name of 
rolling bridges , have been long known in Holland. The object seems to have 
been, not so much to overcome a difference of level, as to prevent the transfer- ' 
ence of water from one tract of country to another, on account of the jealousy of 
drainage. One of the most remarkable of this kind is the Ocertoom , between 
Amsterdam and the Haarlem Meer, which is preferred on account of the interest 
which the city of Haarlem has in continuing the ship navigation through the 
ancient sea sluices of Sparendam. (On the subject of this section see the article 
‘ Navigation Inland ’ in the Edin. Cgd. by Telford.) 


§ 11. Polders, Turbaries, and Peat. 

Polder is the name given to a piece of ground below the level of the sea or 
river, Which, having once been a morass or lake (plus, Anglice plash), has been 
surrounded by embankments, and then cleared of the water by pumps. So 
large a part of Holland and Belgium was originally in the condition of morass 
that whole districts are composed entirely of polders partitioned off by dykes or 
ramparts; and the ground thus drained is usually remarkable for its richness 
and fertility. Many of the polders in the Rijnland, or district around Leiden 
are 32 ft. below the sea. 

Besides the natural lakes, the extent of surface covered by water has been 
much increased by digging for fuel. The natural fuel of the Netherlands is 


13 


Holland. § 11 . polders. 

peat, the brown spongy peat obtained from the higher bogs (hooge veenen, or 
fens) of Friesland, and the black, solid, and more earthy peat of the low mosses 
(laage veenen) of IN’, and S. Holland, whose surface is rarely above the level of 
the sea. From Rotterdam to the Helder they cover a very large area, and have 
proved rich mines of fuel for many ages. The annual consumption at present is 
estimated at 10 million tons. The peat is conveyed through the canals and 
across arms of the sea in barges, called turf-potten. The Dutch drove the 
Spanish fleet out of the Zuider Zee in vessels of this kind. The landing and 
conveyance of turf on shore is the privilege of a peculiar corporation of porters. 
But where the peat was extracted stagnant water took its place. Scooped up 
from beneath this gathering water as long as any available turf existed, or as 
long as it could easily be reached, the quaking bogs were succeeded by lakes, 
often from 12 to 20 ft. deep below low water,—sometimes of considerable 
extent, scattered in numbers over the country, and frequently separated only 
by narrow intervals of unsteady land between. 

In draining one of these morasses, or inland seas, and rendering it fit for cul¬ 
tivation, the first operation consists in damming it in with a rampart of earth 
sufficiently strong and high to prevent foreign water from flowing into it. Out¬ 
side this rampart or dyke a ringsloot or surrounding drain is made, of dimensions 
sufficient to be a navigable canal. Windmills are then erected on the edge of 
the dyke, each of which works a water-wheel. Pumps are very seldom used in 
draining, as the water is usually highly charged with silt, and is not required to 
be raised a very great height. Steam-power is of late and partial introduc¬ 
tion. The instruments employed are, the scoop-wheel, the screw of Archi¬ 
medes, and the inclined scoop-wheel, or Eckhardt wheel. When a great 
undertaking of drainage is going on, houses are erected in a convenient 
situation on the dyke, where the engineers and a committee of the pro¬ 
prietors constantly reside, and carefully watch the progress which the wind¬ 
mills are making. In most cases the undertakers are compelled by government 
regulations to complete the drainage at a certain period of the year, for the 
very obvious reason that, if the ground were not cleared of the water until the 
beginning of the summer heat, the exhalations would materially increase the 
marsh fevers which generally prevail in the first years of an extensive drainage. 

The mills raise the water from the marsh to the ringsloot or canal, which con¬ 
veys it to a river or to the sea. But most frequently the whole of this great 
operation cannot be performed at once: and where the marshes are of too great 
a depth below the surrounding country, two or three dykes and as many canals 
are made, at different levels, rising by degrees to the upper canal, in which the 
whole terminates. In the Schermer-Meer, for instance, there are four stages of 
canals. Every piece of ground forms a long parallelogram, separated from the 
next by a broad deep ditch, which, in reality, is a first canal. This serves to 
convey part of the harvest; to carry off the water which, but for this, would 
continue on the ground; but, above all, as an enclosure, which renders it un¬ 
necessary to guard the flocks,. which seldom attempt to pass over this obstruc¬ 
tion. The canals communicate, by means of the above-mentioned mills, with 
those of the second stage along the roads; lastly, two or three upper canals 
traverse the whole of the polder, like great arteries, carrying all these lower 
waters into one grand canal made below the dyke, and immediately connected 
with the sea. These canals, on four different levels, are, in general, com¬ 
pletely separated, but are made to communicate whenever it is desired, and 
the precise proportion which is thought necessary may be established between 
them. 

“ It is easy to conceive the extreme fertility acquired by land managed in this 
manner. Formed originally of mud, which was itself rich, it is covered almost 
all the year round with herbs which contribute to its fertility. All the water 
which might be injurious is drawn off at pleasure, by means of the mills, and a 
regular and gradual irrigation is introduced at the most favourable moment. 


14 


Sect. I 


§ 11. POLDERS. 

“ The appearance of the polder itself, when you have got into it, is very dif¬ 
ferent from the upper country; and, though more remarkable, it is decidedly 
less agreeable. Each object reminds you that you are at the bottom of a lake, 
on a factitious soil, where everything is calculated. When the draining is 
finished, the undertakers have very regularly portioned out the conquest they 
have made from the waters; they have divided and subdivided it into perfectly 
equal parts : they have dug canals, made roads, planted trees in perfect right 
lines, proscribed all curves, all variation in the distance, and placed at the head 
of each farm a square habitation, which is always similar to its neighbour. Very 
accurately surrounded with 20 trees, often fine, but never graceful, these re¬ 
doubts resemble neither farm-houses, which would be less carefully kept, and 
more animated, nor country seats, where something could be dedicated to plea¬ 
sure. Their large roofs, coming down nearly to the ground in four equal slopes, 
rest upon brick walls, which are always neat, but never elegant. They look as 
if they had just sprung up like mushrooms among the tufted grass which sur¬ 
rounds them, and which seems never to have been trodden under foot.”— A 
Journey in North Holland. 

In forming an idea of the power which will be required to bale out the water 
from a lake, or to maintain it in the state of a polder, three considerations are to 
be taken into account: 1st, The depth of water in the lake a-t its mean level, 
which indicates the power necessary merely to drain the lake ; 2ndly, The ave¬ 
rage yearly fall of rain and average yearly evaporation, the difference being to 
be removed by pumping; lastly, The quantity of spring or ooze water likely 
to make its way into the hollow land. 

An excellent opportunity will be afforded to the traveller to view the results 
and processes of a drainage on the very largest scale in the empty and now cul¬ 
tivated basin of the great Lake of Haarlem (Route 2). 

The better class of polders, with a good soil, when richly manured and care¬ 
fully cleared of weeds, especially those recently redeemed from the sea, are of 
great value, and highly productive as arable land; but the greater part furnish 
pasture or hay for the cattle, and are by no means of inferior value in this graz¬ 
ing country. 

Many polders are subjected to annual inundations in the winter time, which, 
however, do no harm, if the water which covers them be not salt, and provided 
it can be removed by the end of May. The proprietors of the polders pay a cer¬ 
tain sum to be permitted to discharge the water pumped out of them into the 
neighbouring canals. 

It may, at first sight, appear singular that the polders, the source of agricul¬ 
tural wealth, should be equally important to the country in a military point of 
view; this is, however, the case. By opening the sluices, cutting the dykes, 
and inundating the low meadows they enclose—a measure fraught with ruin, 
and therefore only resorted to at the last extremity—the Dutch may bid defiance 
to the strongest force brought against them: as, though the depth of water and 
mud upon a submerged polder is sufficiently great to check the advance of an 
army, it is too shallow to admit the passage of any but small boats. It is true 
that a hard frost sometimes converts the water, which serves as a defence in 
summer, into a bridge for the invading foes in winter. By availing themselves 
. of the desperate resource of drowning the land to save it, the Dutch purchased 
their freedom from the yoke of Spain; and Europe beheld with astonishment the 
most powerful monarch in the world, upon whose dominions the sun never set, 
baffled by the hardy efforts of the inhabitants of a country which in extent is 
not much greater than Yorkshire. In a following age, 1672, at a time when 
most of the provinces had opened their gates in consternation to Louis XIY., 
Holland opened to him her sluices, and was thus preserved from French tyranny. 
She has made the same sacrifice with equal success at various other periods of her 
history ; and even in 1830-32 everything was prepared to inundate the country, 
in the event of an inroad of the French army into Holland, which was at that 
time threatened. 


Holland. § 12. dunes.— 13. gardens And summer-houses. 


15 


§ 12. Dunes. 

The Dunes, or sand-hills, which extend along the coast of Holland from Dun¬ 
kirk, nearly without interruption, to the Helder, varying in breadth between 
1 and 3 miles, and rising sometimes to 40 or 50 ft. in height, are formed en¬ 
tirely by the action of the wind blowing up the sand of the sea-shore; they are 
a source of good and evil to the country; they serve as a natural barrier to keep 
out the ocean,—a benefit which, but for the ingenuity and contrivance of man, 
would be more than counterbalanced by the injury done by their progress 
inland. On the sea-shore they are mere loose heaps, driven about by every 
blast, like snow-wreaths on the Alps; and, were they not restrained, would 
move onward year after year and inundate the country. In passing over a 
desert of this kind at Schevening, on a windy day, the atmosphere appears dim 
with the particles of sand blown like smoke through the air. The height of the 
dunes depends upon the fineness of the sand, as the wind has, of course, the most 
power in transporting the minuter particles. Camperdown, memorable in the 
naval annals of Britain, is one of the loftiest on the whole coast, owing to this 
cause. 

To check the dispersion of the sand, and the evil attending it, the dunes are 
sowed regularly every year with plants congenial to it, for even sand has a vege¬ 
tation peculiar to itself, which may be called luxuriant: but a species of coarse 
reed-grass, or seabent, which grows near the sea (Arundo arenaria), whose 
roots sometimes spread to a distance of 30 ft., is principally employed, and 
to greatest advantage. In a short time the roots spread and combine, so as to 
hold fast the sand, and cover the surface with a succession of verdant vegetation, 
which, growing and decaying on it, accumulates upon it a layer of earth capable 
at length of producing a crop of excellent potatoes, and even of supporting plan¬ 
tations of firs. Most of the plants thus cultivated on the dunes may be seen in 
the Botanic Garden at Leiden. 

Before the attempt was made to arrest the progress of the sand, it had ad¬ 
vanced, in the course of centuries, far into the interior; and it has recently been 
found worth while, in some instances, to dig away and remove the superincum¬ 
bent hillocks, and lay bare the good soil buried by them: since, on being again 
exposed to the air and light, it is found to be still fertile and productive. (As to 
the subjects treated of in Sections 8-12, see Art. VI., Edin. Rev., Oct. 1847, 
vol. lxxxvi. p. 419.) 


§ 13. Gardens and Summer-Houses. 

Though the charm of variety of aspect and inequality of surface has been 
denied by nature to Holland, compensation is made for this, in a certain degree, 
by the high cultivation of its fields and gardens. In whatever direction the 
traveller passes through the country, and whether by road or canal, he will find 
the way enlivened by country seats (buiten plaatsen) and pleasure-gardens ; in 
the laying out and maintaining of which great wealth is expended, though they 
do not always show much taste. They present the most perfect pictures of 
prettiness, with their meandering walks and fantastically cut parterres, filled with 
flowers of gaudiest hue. If possible, each garden is provided with a fish-pond ; 
and, if it be wanting, the first step which a Dutch proprietor invariably takes, 
upon entering a newly-acquired demesne, is to dig a large hole that he may 
convert into a pond; so great an attachment does he appear to have for that 
element which surrounds him on all sides, which is never out of his sight, and 
which invariably stagnates before his door in the shape of a canal. At the ex¬ 
tremity of the garden a pair of iron gates is erected, often more for ornament 
than use. Through these, or through a gap made purposely in the hedge, the 
passer-by is admitted to spend his admiration on the beauties within,—on the 
pyramids of flower-pots, trim box borders, and velvet lawns and grass-plots. At 
the very end of the garden, overlooking the high road or canal, a summer-house 





18 § 13. gardens And summer-houses. Sect. I. 

is always placed, called zomerhuis (summer-house), tuinhuis (garden-house), or 
koepel (cupola); this is the resort of the family in spring and summer after¬ 
noons. Here the men smoke their pipes and sip their beer, coffee, or tea; the 
old ladies ply the knitting needle, and the young ones amuse themselves with 
eyeing and criticising the passers-by. In the neighbourhood of all the large 
towns, the citizens and tradespeople, who have their shops and counting-houses 
in the crowded and narrow streets, generally have such a pavilion in a small 
garden on the outskirts, even though they have no house attached to it, to which 
they can retire when the business of the day is over. Very frequently, on enter¬ 
ing the town, the traveller passes through a whole street of such gazabos. By a 
peculiarity of taste, they are invariably placed in a stagnant' ditch, which is 
usually covered with a luxuriant crop of green duckweed, and often offends the 
nose by the noisome odours which it exhales. The consequence is, that ere the 
sun goes down, however warm the evening, these ditch-bestriding pleasure- 
houses must be abandoned to the neighbourly frogs; and they who should 
venture to prolong their evening recreations beyond a certain hour might pay 
for their temerity with a fever produced by the unwholesome exhalations which 
then begin to rise. 

“ These little buildings are so very numerous as to form a characteristic 
feature of the country. Each villa has its name or some motto inscribed over the 
gateway, the choice of which is generally meant to bespeak content and comfort 
on the part of the owner ; and they afford a source of amusement to the stranger 
as he passes along. Thus, among others, we read, ‘ Lust en rust/ Pleasure and 
ease; ‘ Wei tevreeden/ Well contented; ‘Mijngenegenheidis voldaan/ My desire 
is satisfied; ‘ Mijn lust en leven/ My pleasure and life ; ‘ Niet zoo kwaalijk/ 
Not so bad; ‘ Gerustelijk en wel tevreeden/ Tranquil and content; ‘ Vriendschap 
en gezelschap,’ Friendship and sociability; ‘ Het vermaak is in’t hovenieren/ 
There is pleasure in gardening. And over the entrance to one of the tea-gardens 
near Rotterdam was inscribed, ‘ De vleesch potten van Egypte/ The flesh-pots of 
Egypt. Some of the larger gardens abound with fruits and vegetables, and beds 
and borders of flowering shrubs and plants are laid out in all the grotesque 
shapes that can be imagined. It must be confessed, however, that an air of 
comfort presides over these villas. Most of the dwelling-houses are gaily painted 
in lively colours; all the offices and out-houses are kept in neat order; while the 
verdant meadows are covered with the finest cattle, most speckled black and 
white.”— Family Tour in South Holland. 

The following description proceeds from the sarcastic and dashing pen of the 
author of “Vathek,” and maybe regarded as an amusing caricature of Dutch 
taste:—“ Every flower that wealth can purchase diffuses its perfume on one side; 
whilst every stench a canal can exhale poisons the air on the other. These slug¬ 
gish puddles, defy all the power of the United Provinces, and retain the freedom 
of stinking in spite of any endeavour to conquer the filthiness. But perhaps I 
am too bold in my assertion, for I have no authority to mention any attempts to 
purify these noxious pools. Who knows but their odour is congenial to a Dutch 
constitution ? One should be inclined to this supposition by the numerous ban- 
queting-rooms and pleasure-houses which hang directly above their surface and 
seem calculated on purpose to enjoy them. If frogs were not excluded from the 
magistrature of their country (and I cannot but think it a little hard that they 
are), one should not wonder at this choice. Such burgomasters might erect their 
pavilions in such situations. But, after all, I am not greatly surprised at the 
fishiness of their sight, since very slight authority would persuade me there was 
a period when Holland was all water and the ancestors of the present inhabitants 
fish. A certain oysterishness of eye and flabbiness of complexion are almost proof 
sufficient of this aquatic descent; and pray tell me for what purpose arc such 
galligaskins as the Dutch burthen themselves with contrived, but to tuck up a 

flouncing tail and thus cloak the deformity of a dolphin-like termination?”_ 

Bcchford. 


Holland. 


§ 14. DUTCH SCHOOL OP PAINTING. 


17 


§ 14. Dutch School of Painting*—Picture-Galleries in Holland. 

One point to ‘which the traveller in Holland ought certainly to direct his at¬ 
tention is the collections of pictures of the Dutch school. Though specimens of 
its masters are dispersed through all the galleries of Europe, they are nowhere 
seen in greater perfection than in the museums of the Hague and Amsterdam, 
and in the numerous private cabinets in these and other Dutch towns. 

The great excellence of the criticisms on art and descriptions of paintings given 
by Sir J oshua Reynolds in his 1 Tour in Holland and Flanders/ and their utility 
and value to all who would form a correct taste and accurate estimation of paint¬ 
ings, have induced the editor to incorporate in this work the greater portion of 
them. The quotations are marked by the letter R. 

By way of introduction, his remarks on the Dutch school are inserted here; 
while those on the Flemish school, and especially on Rubens, are reserved for the 
description of Belgium. On quitting Holland he observes— 

“ The account of the Dutch pictures is, I confess, more barren of entertainment 
than I expected. One could wish to be able to convey to the reader some idea of 
that excellence, the sight of which has afforded so much pleasure; but as their 
merit often consists in the truth of representation alone, whatever praise they 
deserve, whatever pleasure they give when under the eye, they make but a poor 
figure in description. It is to the eye only that the works of this school are ad¬ 
dressed ; it is not, therefore, to be wondered at that what was intended solely for 
the gratification of one sense succeeds but ill when applied to another. 

“A market-woman with a hare in her hand, a man blowing a trumpet, or a 
boy blowing bubbles, a view of the inside or outside of a church, are the subjects 
of some of their most valuable pictures ; but there is still entertainment even in 
such pictures : however uninteresting their subjects, there is some pleasure in the 
contemplation of the truth of the imitation. But to the painter they afford like¬ 
wise instruction in his profession. Here he may learn the art of colouring and 
composition, a skilful management of light and shade, and, indeed, all the me¬ 
chanical parts of the art, as well as in any other school whatever. The same 
skill which is practised by Rubens and Titian in their large works is here ex¬ 
hibited, though on a smaller scale. Painters should go to the Dutch school to 
learn the art of painting as they would go to a grammar-school to learn languages. 
They must go to Italy to learn the higher branches of knowledge. 

“We must be content to make up our idea of perfection from the excellences 
which are dispersed over the world. A poetical imagination, expression, cha¬ 
racter, or even correctness of drawing, are seldom united with that power of 
colouring which would set off these excellences to the best advantage; and in 
this, perhaps, no school ever excelled the Dutch. An artist, by a close examina • 
tion of their works, may, in a few hours, make himself master of the principles 
on which they wrought, which cost them whole ages, and perhaps the experience 
of a succession of ages, to ascertain. * 

“ The most considerable of the Dutch schools are Rembrandt, Teniers, Jan 
Steen, Ostade, Brouwer, Gerard Douw, Mieris, Metzu, and Terbmg: these excel 
in small conversations; for landscapes and cattle, Wouwermans, P. Potter, 
Berchem, Ruysdael, Hobbema, Adrian Yandervelde, Both, and Cuyp; and for 
buildings, Vanderheyden; for sea views, W. Yandervelde jun. and Backhuy- 
sen; for dead and live game and birds, Weenix and Hondekoeter; for 
flowers, De Heem, Yanhuysum, Rachel Ruisch, and Breughel; and for inte- 

* To enter fully into the history of the different schools of art is beyond the purpose and 
scope of this work : but the excellent Handbooks of Painting by Kugler (Italian schools edited 
by Sir Charles Eastlake, P.R.A., and German and Dutch schools edited by Sir Edmund Head), 
and that of the Spanish and French schools by Sir E. Head, may safely be recommended as indis¬ 
pensable companions to those who visit the picture-galleries of the Continent. 



18 § 14. DUTCH SCHOOL OF PAINTltfG.— 15. PECULIARITIES. Sect. 1. 

riors and perspectives, Peter de Hooghe. These make the bulk of the Dutch 
school. 

“1 consider those painters as belonging to this school who painted only small 
conversations and landscapes, &c. Though some of those were bom in Flanders, 
their works are principally found in Holland: and to separate them from the 
Flemish school, which generally painted figures large as life, it appears to me 
more reasonable to class them with the Dutch painters, and to distinguish those 
two schools rather by their style and manner than by the place where the artist 
happened to be born. 

“ Rembrandt may be considered as belonging to both, or either, as he painted 
both large and small pictures. 

“ The works of David Teniers jun. are worthy the closest attention of a 
painter who desires to excel in the mechanical knowledge of his art. His man¬ 
ner of touching, or what we call handling, has, perhaps, never been equalled. 
There is in his pictures that exact mixture of softness and sharpness which is 
difficult to execute. 

' “Jan Steen has a strong manly style of painting, which might become even 
the design of Raffaelle; and he has shown the greatest skill in composition and 
management of light and shadow, as well as great truth in the expression and 
character of his figures. 

“The landscapes of Ruysdael have not only great force, but have a freshness 
which is seen in scarce any other painter. What excellence in colouring and 
handling is to be found in the dead game of Weenix ! 

“ A clearness and brilliancy of colouring may be learned by examining the 
flower-pieces of De Heem, Huysum, and Mignon; and a short time employed in 
painting flowers would make no improper part of a painter’s study. Rubens’s 
pictures strongly remind one of a nosegay of flowers, where all the colours are 
bright, clear, and transparent.” 

8o many changes have taken place in the situation and condition of the pic¬ 
tures described by Sir Joshua, both in private and public collections, since 1781, 
when he travelled, more especially in consequence of the French revolution, as to 
detract from the value of his work as a guide; and it would only confuse the 
reader to present it entire and in its original form. A careful arrangement and 
selection of the descriptions has therefore been made, after comparing them on 
the spot with the pictures as they exist; and they are here distributed in the 
places where the paintings are now to be found; while a great many works of 
art of the highest excellence, not seen by Sir Joshua, but added to the various 
collections since his time, are likewise enumerated. 

§ 15. Some Peculiarities in Dutch Manners, etc. 

A voyage round half the globe would scarcely transport the English traveller 
to a scene more strange and enlivening, or more different from what he sees at 
home, than that presented by the streets of a Dutch town. They are so 
thoroughly intersected by canals ( grachteri ), that most of them might properly be 
termed quays, lined with houses and bordered with rows of tall trees. The canals 
swarm with the picturesque craft whose gilt prows, round stems, and painted 
sides are rendered so familiar beforehand by the paintings of Cuyp, Yandervelde, 
and other Dutch artists. At intervals the canals are crossed by drawbridges 
(ophaalbruggen), by which a communication is kept up between one part of the town 
and another. The intermixture of trees, water, shipping, and houses ; the bustle 
of loading and unloading vessels in front of the owners’ doors ; and the tall red brick 
houses, with variously pointed gables and variegated tiles, so highly polished 
that they glitter in the sunshine, have a pleasing as well as novel aspect. 

Mirrors. —One of the first things that will strike a stranger’s eye in a Dutch 
town are the little mirrors ( spiegels ) projecting in front of the windows of almost 


Holland. § 15. peculiarities in dutch manners, etc. 19 

all the houses. They consist of two pieces of glass placed at an angle of 45° 
to each other, the one reflecting up, the other down the street. By means of this 
contrivance the Dutch lady may see all that passes outside, without the trouble 
of going to the window, or the necessity of exposing herself to the vulgar gaze ; 
and, while she sits ensconced behind the gauze blind, may continue her knitting 
or sewing uninterruptedly. 

Cleanliness .—It may appear paradoxical to say that cleanliness is carried to 
excess in Holland; but the passion for purifying really runs to such a height 
among Dutch housewives that the assertion is by no means groundless: 
everything bas an air of freshness. It will he productive of some amuse¬ 
ment to issue out into the streets of a Dutch town early on a Saturday 
morning. It is on the last day of the week that an extraordinary schoonmaken 
(cleaning) takes place. Every house door presents a scene of most energetic 
activity—the brushing and mopping, the scrubbing and scraping, are not 
confined to steps and doorways—the pavement, wall, windows, however 
guiltless they may be of impurity, are all equally subjected to the same cotu’sc 
of ablution. Those spots which are out of the reach of hand or broom do 
not escape a well-aimed stream from the pipe of a small engine-pump, which is 
always reserved for such service. The unsuspecting stranger who walks the 
streets early in the morning is subjected to the danger of perpetual wettings. He 
looks up to ascertain whence the shower descends, and he perceives a diligent 
servant girl, stretched out of a window two-thirds of her length, and, with eyes 
intently turned upwards, discharging bowls full of water upon some refractory 
stain, imperceptible to all but herself. Spiders must stand a worse chance here 
than in any other country of the globe. Assiduous war is waged against them, the 
weapon in use being a broom as long as a boarding pike; and the forlorn attempt 
! of a solitary spinner to establish himself in the corner of a window, to which 
elsewhere he might be supposed to have a prescriptive right, is immediately de- 
i tected and scattered to the winds. The purification does not end without sub¬ 
jecting the instrument of cleanliness, the broom itself, however worn out or old, 
to a course of cleansing. Within doors equal purity and precision reign. In 
some parts of Holland, when a farmer or peasant of the better class receives a 
visitor, he is obliged to put off his shoes before he enters the house ; but he is every¬ 
where expected to clean them most carefully before admission is granted. In 
the dailies of North Holland, and especially in the far-famed village of Broek, 
the traveller will have the best opportunity of appreciating the full extent of 
Dutch cleanliness. It does not, however, require a long acquaintance with the 
Dutch to remark that this persevering and almost painful cleanliness is not 
always extended to their persons, especially among the lower orders, who indeed 
are not more cleanly than the same class in England. 

One of the essentials of comfort for a Dutch lady is the Vuur Stoof , a square 
box, open on one side to admit an earthen pan filled with hot embers of turf, 
and perforated at the top to allow the heat to ascend and warm the feet: it serves 
as a footstool, and is concealed under the dress. The use of it is rarely dispensed 
with, whatever be the season, in doors or out—the citizen’s wife has it carried 
after her by her servant to church or the theatre. Hundreds of these fire-pots 
may be seen piled up in the aisles of the churches. 

To announce that sickness is in a house, the knocker is not tied up as with us, 
but a paper is stuck upon the door, containing the daily bulletin of the invalid’s 
health, drawn up by a doctor, which prevents the necessity of ringing and the 
chance of disturbing the sick person when friends come to inquire after him. In 
two of the towns of Holland, Haarlem and Enckhuysen, when there is a “ lady 
in the straw,” a silk pincushion covered and fringed with plaited lace is exposed 
at the door—the sex of the infant is marked by the colour; if a boy red, if a girl 
white. The house which shows in this manner that the number of its inhabit¬ 
ants has been increased by a birth enjoys by ancient law and custom various 




20 § lo. PECULIARITIES IX MANNERS, ETC.—16. MtJSIC. Sect. I. 


immunities and privileges. For a certain number of days nothing which is 
likely to disturb a lady so situated is allowed to approach it. It is protected 
from legal executions; no bailiffs dare to molest its inmates ; no soldiers can be 
billeted in it; and, when troops pass it on the march, the drums cease to beat. 

A sort of basket decorated with evergreen, ears of com, bits of silk and tinsel 
hung out over a shop door, denotes the recent arrival of herrings, much prized 
as a delicacy by the Dutch. 

Before a traveller has been many days in Holland he will probably meet in 
the street a man dressed in black, with a cocked hat and wig, a long crape hat¬ 
band, and a short cloak: he is called the Aanspreker, and his duty is, on the 
death of any one, to announce the event to the friends or connections of the 
deceased. 

The Kermis (wake or fair) is a sort of Dutch carnival, and exhibits many 
peculiarities of character. The servant-girls, when being hired, always stipulate 
with their masters for a certain number of holidays or kermis-days. They swarm 
at these festivals in company with their “ sweethearts f* indeed, sweethearts are 
sometimes hired for these occasions, so that the damsels who have not one for love 
may have him for money. 

The Stork .—One of the peculiarities of Holland is the sort of veneration in 
which the stork (called ooyevaar) is held by the peasant inhabitants. These 
birds are not only never injured or disturbed, but a cartwheel or some other contri* 
vance is often placed on the house-top for their use, if not expressly to invite them 
to settle, at least to prevent their becoming a nuisance, since otherwise the bird, 
attracted by the warmth of the fire, would naturally deposit the materials of its 
nest on the chimney-top itself, so as to stop it up, dirty the house, and perhaps 
set it on fire, which the owner prevents by a stand or rest so placed as to allow 
the smoke to escape from beneath it. Their huge nests may be seen perched on 
the roofs of farm-houses, and even in the town, on the edge of a gable, or near a 
chimney: it is considered a good omen to a dwelling and its inmates if the stork 
select it for its habitation ; and to kill one of these birds is looked upon in hardly 
any other light than a crime. The main army of storks migrate to a southern 
climate about the middle of August, taking with them the young brood which 
they have reared. They return in the spring about the month of May. The 
old ones never fail to seek out their former nests. During a great fire, which, 
in 1536, destroyed a large part of the town of Delft, the storks were seen bear¬ 
ing away their young ones from their nest through the midst of the flames, and, 
where they were unable to effect this, perishing with them rather than abandon 
them. Several of the Dutch poets allude to this well-authenticated fact. 

Nightingales, and singing birds in general, are also protected from molestation 
in Holland; and bird-nesting, and every other injury to the melodists of the 
wood, is severely punished by local laws. 













§ 16 . Music— Organs. 

“ The lover of music fares meagrely in Holland. The operatic theatres 
at. Amsterdam and the Hague are principally occupied (when open) by 
third-rate German, French) and Italian companies, which may be also met with 
in the smaller towns, shorn, of course, to provincial dimensions. But those who 
are ‘ curious in organs ’ will find much to interest them in Holland. The taste 
for mechanical devices, which has planted bleating clockwork sheep in Mijnheer’s 
pleasure-garden, has indulged itself, with more dignity, in commissioning for the 
churches instruments grand in scale, and curious in the variety of their com¬ 
ponent parts. If Holland cannot be said to have possessed a school of organ- 
builders analogous, for instance, to the famous Alsatian family of the Silber- 
manns, yet the land possessed, during the last century, several men of renown, 





Holland. § 16. music—organs.—IT. agriculture. 21 

such as Batti of Utrecht, Christian Miiller of Amsterdam (the builder of the 
Haarlem organ), and Hess of Gonda. The organs at Haarlem, Rotterdam, Am¬ 
sterdam, Gouda, Delft, and Utrecht (and I have been told also at Leeuwarden, 
Beverwijk, and Nijmegen), are all worthy of attention. There are many treatises 
on organ-building in Dutch. The players seem generally in no respect worthy 
of their instruments, yet the powerful and unisonal psalmody sustained by the 
full organ, and filling the lofty churches with a volume of rich and robust sound, 
treats those attending public worship to a musical effect such as I, at least, have 
heard in no other place.”— H. F. C. 

N.B.—To obtain admission to the churches of Holland, at times when they 
are not open for service, a fee of 15 to 35 cents is paid. 


§ 17. AGRICULTURE. 

Owing to the peculiar situation and the nature of the soil of Holland the 
agriculturist has to contend with many difficulties, and consequently to resort to 
many methods and resources not much attended to in other countries. Travellers 
therefore, who take an interest in agriculture may observe much deserving of 
their attention. Dutch dairy-farms, too, have long been famous. A few of the 
more remarkable peculiarities and features of the agriculture of the Netherlands 
are here pointed out. Those who wish for further information on these subjects 
i may consult the following works, from which these observations are extracted :— 
On the Agriculture of the Netherlands , Agric. Journal , vol. ii. pp. 43-64; vol. 

| iii. 40-263. Outlines of Flemish Husbandry—Library of Useful Knowledge. 
British Husbandry , vol. iii. 

The climate of the Netherlands, from the borders of France to the northern 
part of Holland along the coast and for 50 or 60 miles inland, differs little from 
that of Kent or Essex. It is warmer in summer and colder in winter than the 
1 central part of England. The quantity of rain which falls there is not so great, 
especially in winter, as in those parts of England which lie on the opposite 
( coast; but the snow covers the ground for a much longer time. Hence a ma- 
i terial difference exists in the time of ploughing and sowing. 

The quality of the soil is various. Towards the N. part of Flanders and 
Antwerp, and the S. part of Holland, it is very barren. If it were not 
for a small portion of mud occasionally mixed with this soil, the water would 
i freely percolate through it, and no vegetation could be supported. In pro- 
, portion to the quantity of the mud, which is a very fine clay, with a portion of 
decayed shells and organic matter, the soil is more or less fertile; and when 
the mud enters largely into it, a rich compact loam is formed. In many places 
there are alternate narrow strata of sand and loam, which being mixed together 
form a very productive soil. 

When the sand is deep, with little or no loam near the surface, it is a tedious 
process to bring the land into cultivation. Much of the sandy heaths which lie 
between Antwerp and the Maas remain in a state of nature, producing nothing 
but scanty tufts of heath interspersed with a few very coarse grasses. Some 
spots have been brought under cultivation by the most indefatigable industry. 
By trenching and levelling, mixing the heavier soils with the sand, by a careful 
addition of manure both solid and liquid, and by first sowing such plants as will 
grow on this barren soil, a stratum of productive soil is gradually collected. If 
manure cannot be had, broom is first sown. This grows on the most barren soils; 
in three years it is cut for fagots for the bakers and brickmakers. It has some¬ 
what improved the soil, which is next sown with buckwheat, or even with rye. 
After this, clover and potatoes follow ; and these crops furnishing manure, im¬ 
provement goes on rapidly. If about 20 small cart-loads of dung can be brought 
on each acre of the newly-trenched ground, the progress is much more rapid. 



22 


Sect. I. 


§ 17. AGRICULTURE. 

Potatoes are then the first crop. Then follows rye, after the land has been 
manured to the same extent as before. In this clover is sown in the succeeding 
spring. After rye comes buckwheat, without any manure; then potatoes again, 
manured as at first; and the same rotation of crops follows. 

It is evident how important a good supply of manure is to success in cultivat¬ 
ing such land. The most rapid improver of loose sands is liquid manure. Ac¬ 
cordingly, the greatest attention is paid to the collection and preparation of 
manure, more especially of liquid manure. Every farm has one or more capa¬ 
cious tanks, whose construction will be found worthy of the attention of the agri¬ 
culturist. The instruments of tillage are few and simple, especially the ploughs, 
which, however, are well adapted to the light soil of the country. An instru¬ 
ment, called a traineau in Belgium, is used to level the surface of the light soils, 
'without too much compressing them. A rodded hurdle is also used for the same 
pui’pose. The harrows are mostly triangular, with wooden teeth set at an acute 
angle forwards. The mollebart , which is used in the levelling of newly-trenched 
land, is an instrument peculiarly Flemish or Dutch : it is a very large wooden 
shovel, in form like a housemaid’s dustpan, with a stout long handle. To fully 
understand its use, it must be seen worked by a skilful hand. The spade and 
shovel are also largely used in the tillage of the Netherlands. Considerable 
attention is paid in the Netherlands, hut especially in Flanders, to a proper rota¬ 
tion of crops. The rotations observed are founded on long experience. Manure, 
both solid and liquid, is applied constantly to the soil in great abundance. It is 
by this means that the character of the poor soils becomes in a few years entirely 
changed. Great attention is paid to the choice of seed. The quantity of seed on 
a given extent of land in the Netherlands is much smaller than it usually is in 
England. This is owing to the greater attention paid to prepare the land for 
receiving the seed. The surface is brought to a finer tilth, by repeated harrow¬ 
ing with light wooden harrows. Mixed seed is sometimes sown, as a mixture of 
wheat and rye, which, indeed, is known in Yorkshire, where it is called meslin. 
In Flanders it is called meteil. The sowing of carrots amongst a growing crop 
is peculiar to the Netherlands. The Friesland oats are well known in England 
as of a very good quality for brewing, and great crops of them are raised in the 
rich alluvial soils of Holland. Chicory is much cultivated, the dried roots of 
which are roasted and used instead of coflee. The root contains a strong hitter, 
and is used instead of hops in beer. It is sown about the beginning of April, and 
the roots are taken up in September, and are then of the size of a small carrot. 
The leaves, if eaten by cows, give a had taste to their milk. Flax, hemp, and 
the oily seeds, especially colza or rape, arc also extensively cultivated in the. 
Netherlands. In many parts of the Netherlands, owing to the constant presence 
of water, the soil is better calculated for meadows than arable land. In these 
meadows, especially in N. Holland and Friesland, a very fine breed of milch 
cows and oxen is fed. The quantity of butter exported (chiefly to England), 
and its value in foreign markets, prove that the operations of the dairy are well 
conducted. The rich soil, no doubt, gives a good quality to the butter; hut 
this is not the only cause of its superiority. The extraordinary cleanliness of 
every part of a dairy, and its furniture, show the unremitted attention of the 
dairywoman. Besides this, the stables, the cows, and even the litter, are kept 
so clean that it is a pleasure to walk through them; and the family often 
make one end of the cow-house their usual sitting-room, having a fire-place at 
one end, and always at least one comfortable bed for a labourer or servant who 
always sleeps in the cow-house. 

The arrangement of a Dutch dairy is as follows:—The building is generally 
like a large barn, with a roof coming to within 7 or 8 feet of the ground, some¬ 
times tiled or slated, but more often thatched with reeds, which make it warm in 
winter. Through the middle, from end to end, is a space 10 or 12 feet broad 
payed with hard bricks. The heads of the cows are placed towards this middle 










Holland. 


§ 17. AGRICULTURE. 


23- 


space, from which all their food is given to them in a shallow trough made of 
bricks, with a gentle fall from end to end to allow of sweeping and washing. As 
straw is scarce, the cows lie on smooth bricks laid sloping, and slightly hollow 
in the middle ; and their beds are made of such a length, that when the cows 
stand their tails hang over a gutter to receive the dung and urine. The clean¬ 
liness is carried to such a degree, that in many cow-houses there are pulleys, and 
lines over them, with a weight at one end, the other being fastened to the end 
of the tail of a cow to keep it up, and prevent its dipping into the gutter behind. 
Everything which falls from the cow is swept away immediately, and the water 
arising from the constant washing of every part of the cow-house runs into a 
tank, and serves to dilute the dung, which, after a time, is pumped up, and either 
earned in water-carts to the meadows, or mixed up with earth and the litter of 
the horses into compost. 

The cows usually come into their winter quarters in November, and are put 
out to graze in May, if the weather is mild. When first the cows are let out 
into the meadows, a piece of coarse cloth is put over their loins, and tied round 
their bodies, to prevent the injurious effects of cold dews and fogs. 

The milk-room is almost always vaulted, and sunk somewhat under the level 
of the ground. The floor is laid with porous tiles, and, being kept wet, the eva¬ 
poration keeps the cellar cool. The milk is brought from the cow-house in large 
brass vessels in the shape of the Etruscan water-cans, which, when full, carry 
the milk without much shaking. Salt is added to the butter as soon as made : 
no Dutchman would touch butter which had no salt in it, however fresh it might 
be. The butter made in summer, when the cows feed in the pastures, is of a 
very fine golden colour and agreeable taste. When the pastures are not so rich, 
i this colour is sometimes given artificially, but the natural colour cannot be 
imitated so as to deceive any but the inexperienced. 

The best Dutch cheese is a new milk cheese made near Gouda, and called 
Gouda cheese. The little round cheeses are made near Edam. Some of the 
i cream has been subtracted and made into butter, and the cheese is what would 
be called half-meal cheese in England. It is very strongly salted by soaking it 
in brine. The common skim-milk cheeses have seeds of cummin mixed with 
( the curd, and are made of the size of our Cheshire cheeses. It is a poor cheese, 

' and seldom exported. 

Very large oxen are fatted in the rich meadows of N. Holland. They have 
S large hones, and are deficient in some points considered essential by the feeder 

I for a cattle show ; but the chief object of the breed is milk. The meat is ex¬ 
cellent. Large quantities of oxen and sheep are exported to England, in 
steamers which take no other cargo, chiefly from Harlingen. 

The sheep of the Netherlands are almost universally large, long-legged 
> animals, with dropping ears, which have nothing hut their size to recommend 
| them. 

The horses in the Netherlands may he divided into two distinct breeds,—the 
t heavy Flanders horses, which are either light chesnut coloured, with white tails 
| and manes, or roan. They are bulky and inactive, and inferior to the Suffolk 
I punch, which breed, no doubt, came originally from Flanders, but has been 
j improved by care in breeding. The Friesland horses are mostly black, and some 
of them are very strong and active, and will do much work and draw very heavy 
I loads. A breed of very fast trotters is encouraged by trotting matches. The 
| Dutch waggons are light, with a very narrow track, to accommodate them to the 
| narrow roads on the tops of the dykes. A pole would be a great incumbrance in 
I turning within a very narrow space; hence a curious substitute has been adopted. 
I A very short crooked pole rises in front, and the driver directs it with his foot. 

[ A person unaccustomed to its use could never drive a Dutch waggon, which re¬ 
quires great skill and judgment to steer it. A drunken driver is discovered a 
long way off by the oscillations of his waggon, which frequently runs off the 




ROUTE 1.—LONDON TO ROTTERDAM. 


Sect. I. 


24 


dyke, and is overturned into the ditch on either side, the horses having .no 
power to keep it straight when the crooked pole has not a steady foot to guide 
the front wheels. The Dutchmen usually make their horses trot in the waggon 
when not heavily loaded. 


ROUTES THROUGH HOLLAND. 


ROUTE 1. 

LONDON TO ROTTERDAM. 

Steamers 4 times a week in summer. 
The General Steam Navigation Com¬ 
pany’s vessels run from St. Katherine’s 
Dock, at 11 a.m. precisely, every Wed¬ 
nesday, and Saturday, returning also on 
those days. The Netherlands Steamers , the 
BATAViERand Fyenoord, leave Black- 
wall Pier every Sunday at 11, returning 
on Tuesday, landing her passengers at 
Thames Haven, whence a special train 
takes them to London; average passage 

15 hrs. One of the steamers of the 
Great Eastern Ely. Company is adver¬ 
tised to leave Harwich for Eotterdam 
every Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday. 
This is a tidal service, and passengers 
can hook through from Bishopsgate 
Station. Steamers also from Hull and 
Newcastle to Eotterdam. The average 
passage from London to Eotterdam is 

16 to 18 hrs., from Hull 22, from New¬ 
castle 36. Fares 20s. and fore .cabin 15s. 

The Maas (French Meuse) is the 
estuary through which a large portion 
of the combined waters of the Ehine 
and Meuse find an outlet to the sea 
18 m. below Eotterdam. The bar at 
its mouth is difficult to pass at low 
tide, when there is but 7 feet water 
upon it. The first appearance of 
Holland exhibits nothing but a strip 
of land on each side, literally “ a 
willow-tufted hank,” barely raised 
above the water. 

The low sandy mud bank projecting 


into the sea on your left as you enter 
the Maas is called the Hoek van Hol¬ 
land (corner of Holland). 

1. The small fortified town of Bridle, 
on the left bank of the river (right hand 
in ascending), soon appears in sight. 
Here custom-house officers come on 
board to fasten down the hold of the ves¬ 
sel, to examine the ship’s papers and the 
passengers’ luggage. There is a ferry 
over the Maas at this place, and the pilots, 
who carry vessels up the river, reside 
here. It was the birthplace of Admirals 
Tromp and de Witt, and is historicaUv 
remarkable as the first place which fell 
into the hands of the Dutch; having 
been taken from the Spaniards, 1572, 
by a bold attack of the Water Gueux, 
under the command of William de la 
March, who had been expelled from 
the ports of England by Queen Eliza-, : 
beth. It may thus be considered as 
the nucleus of the Eepublic of Hol¬ 
land. This exploit was the first in¬ 
stance of open resistance to the power 
of Philip II. of Spain, and led the way 
for the liberation of the country from 
the Spanish yoke. In 1585 Brielle 
was delivered up to Queen Elizabeth 
as one of the cautionary towns, and re¬ 
mained in the hands of the English till 
1616. 

About 5 miles above Brielle is the 
entrance to the New Canal of Voor- 
den, crossing the island of Voom, by 
which large vessels pass from the 
Maas to the spacious harbour of 
Hellvoetsluis, and avoid the shallow 
bar at the mouth of the Maas. The 













Holland. 


25 


ROUTE 1.—ROTTERDAM. 


largest Indiamen reach the sea' in 
two days from Rotterdam. At Ilell- 
voetsluis is a royal dock and arsenal. 
It is the principal naval station of the 
Dutch on the S., being to Rotter¬ 
dam and the mouths of the Rhine and 
Maas what the Holder is to Amster¬ 
dam and the Zuider-Zee. William III. 
embarked there for England in 1688. 

rt. Higher up is Ylaardingen, the 
head-quarters of the Dutch Herring 
Fishery, for which it fits out annually 
from 100 to 150 vessels; the total 
number from the whole of Holland 
in the present state of the fisheries 
falls short of 300. On the 10th or 
11th of June the officers employed in 
the herring fleet repair to the Stadhuis, 
and take an oath to obey the laws of 
the fishery; on the 14th they hoist 
their flags, and go to church to pray 
for a prosperous season; on the 15th 
they set sail, and the day is kept as a 
holiday by the townspeople. The 
fishery lasts from June 2 till October 
30. The fish first caught are sent off 
in swift - sailing yachts to Holland, 
where their arrival is awaited with the 
most anxious expectation. Watchmen 
are set on Ylaardingen steeple to look 
out for the vessel; the cargo usually 
sells for 800 florins, and the first kegs 
of herrings are sent to the lung of 
Holland and his ministers. Still nearer 
to Rotterdam, though not at the river 
side, is Schiedam (14,600 Inhab.), 
famous for its distilleries of the finest 
Geneva, of which there are not less 
than 174 in this small town. The town, 
surrounded by windmills, is never free 
from the smoke issuing from its numc- 
i rous tall chimneys. 

At a turn of the river Rotterdam 
comes suddenly into sight. The Maas 
in front of the town is from 30 to 40 ft. 
deep, so that the largest India vessels 
approach close to the houses, and the 
steamers land their passengers on one 
of the fine quays forming the frontage 
of the river. The first of these is the 
Willems or Weste-kade (West-quay); 
the second, the Old Quay, is called the 
Boompjes (from a row of young elms, j 
boompje signifying little tree), and the 
third, the Ooste-kade (East-quay) — 
the three extending upwards of 2 m. 
[n. g.] 


The Boompjes may, perhaps, recall to 
mind Clieyne Walk, at Chelsea, though 
I on a larger scale, with the advantage of 
having deep water close in shore. Some 
of the best houses are situated on these 
handsome quays. 

Rotterdam. —Inns: New Bath Hotel, 

I on the Boompjes, near the steamers— 
dinner, 14 guilder; table-d’hote at 4; 
vin ordinaire, guilder; beds, 1 to 
14 guilder; — Hotel Victoria on the 
West-quay, well spoken of, 1870;— 

I Hotel des Pays-Bas, Korte Hoogstraat; 
—Hotel Verhaaren and Hotel Weimer, 
Spaansche Kade ;—St. Lucas and Arend 
(Eagle), in the Hoogstraat, commer¬ 
cial houses—good table-d’hote. (See 
Introd., § 4). N.B.—A good hotel is 
much wanted here. 

Rotterdam, the second city of Hol¬ 
land in population and commerce, lies 
on the rt. bank of the Maas; it has 
114,000 Inhab., and is distant about 18 
m. from the sea. It is built in the 
! form of a triangle, one side of which 
| rests on the Maas; it consists of as 
many canals as streets; the three prin¬ 
cipal ones called Leuve, Oude, and 
Nieuwe havens (harbours), open into 
j the Maas, and communicate with the 
various canals which intersect the 
town; thus not only affording a con- 
J stant supply of water to the canals, but, 
by the ebbing and flowing of the tide, 
keeping up a circulation, and preserving 
the water from becoming stagnant and 
putrid; the tide rises commonly 10 or 
12 ft. 

The communication between different 
! parts of the town is maintained by 
a great number of handsome iron ba¬ 
lance bridges, and a few clumsy draw¬ 
bridges suspended by heavy beams of 
wood overhead. The canals serve as 
docks, being deep enough to admit 
vessels of large burden close to the 
doors of the houses and magazines of 
their owners, so that they can discharge 
their cargoes with little trouble and 
cost. Its ready access to the sea gives 
Rotterdam a great advantage as a port; 
and since the separation from Belgium 
it has been rapidly rising in wealth and 
population, at the expense of its rival 
Antwerp. Indeed, since steam has 

C 













26 


ROUTE 1 .—ROTTERDAM. Sect. I. 


aided inland navigation, the position of 
Rotterdam has become superior to that 
of Amsterdam, and it and Hamburg 
now form the great inlets and outlets 
of Germany. The foreign commerce 
of Rotterdam chiefly depends on the 
connection with Java, Sumatra, &c., and 
that trade at present employs nearly 
200 of the finest class of merchant-ships. 
The West India trade, carried on with 
Surinam, is reviving. The trade in 
provisions is very great: much corn is 
brought down the Rhine from the 
interior of Germany, mostly for re¬ 
shipment to England. Nearly a million 
bales of Java coffee are sold here, and 
at Amsterdam, annually, chiefly to 
Russian and German houses. 

A stranger who has never seen a 
Dutch' town before will find more 
amusement in merely walking through 
the streets than in any of the sights 
which guide-books are usually con¬ 
tented to enumerate. He will be 
struck with the novel and picturesque 
combination of water, bridges, trees, 
and shipping, in the heart of a city. 
He will remark the quaint buildings 
with gables facing the street, and often 
overhanging the foundation more than 
a foot; the canals traversed by innu¬ 
merable drawbridges opening and shut¬ 
ting to allow the passage of vessels. 
The shoes of the horses, which it is 
not improbable he may compare to 
pattens; the wooden sabots of the 
peasants; the brass milk-pails, glisten¬ 
ing like polished armour; the little 
mirror fastened before the window 
of every house (§ 15); and the rude 
busts of Turks’ or Moors’ heads in 
front of the druggists’ shops, called, 
from their open mouths, Gapers , are all 
novelties not to be met with in his own 
country. 

An enormous dyke or dam , erected 
at the junction of a small stream called 
the Rotte with the Maas, whence comes 
the name Rotterdam , passes through 
the centre of the town. It originally 
protected the country behind it from 
inundations during high tides of the 
Maas. The Hoogstraat (High Street) 
stands upon this dam ; and the newest 
part of the town is built on the ground 
extending between it and the Eoompjes, 


and gained from the Maas since the 
dam was erected. 

The handsome block of buildings, in¬ 
cluding the Yacht Club, at the AY. end of 
the town, Weste or Willems Kade (here 
many of the steamers land their pas¬ 
sengers), stands on what was a mudbank 
before 1850, while at the E. end, be¬ 
yond the new bridge, a piece of ground 
taken from the river no longer ago 
than 1858 is occupied by the Rhenish 
Railway Station and other buildings. 
Here also is the wharf for inland 
steamers. The new dock for E. India- 
men and other large ships is at the W. 
end, near the park. 

The objects worthy of observation 
are, The statue of Erasmus , who was 
a native of this place. It is of bronze, 
and stands on a wide bridge over a 
canal, which serves the purposes of a 
market-place, called the Groote Markt, 
near the centre of the town. Eras¬ 
mus’s real name was Gerrit Gerritz, 
which, in accordance with the custom 
of the learned of his time, he translated 
into Desiderius Erasmus. The house 
in which he was born (1467) still* 
exists ; it is turned into a gin - shop, 
and is situated in the Breede Iverk 
Straat, leading to the Great Church. 
It bears a small statue of the scholar, 
with the inscription, “ Hcec est parva 
domus, magnus qua natus Erasmus.” 

The Great Church of St. Lawrence , 
Groote Kerk (built in 1472), of brick, 
contains the monuments of the Ad¬ 
mirals de AYitt and Cortenaer, and 
Vice - Admiral (Schoutbijnacht) van 
Brakel, all erected to their memory by 
the States General, and bearing epi¬ 
taphs in old Dutch verse. The very 
fine Organ , finished about 1840, accord¬ 
ing to some is superior in size and tone 
to that of Haarlem, the largest metal 
pipe being 36 ft. long and 17 inches in 
diameter, and the number of stops 90, 
and of pipes 6500! It is 90 ft. high. 
The organist will play at any time in 
consideration of a fee of 10 guilders for 
the hour. They who do not intend to 
visit Haarlem will do well to hear this in¬ 
strument. The tower affords an exten¬ 
sive view of the country around, which, 
in the direction of Delft and Gouda, as 







Holland. 


ROUTE 1.—ROTTERDAM. 


in many other parts of Holland, is 
almost equally divided between land 
and water. It is truly dcbateable 
ground—intersected in all directions by 
canals, and trees in straight avenues, 
its flat surface dotted with farm and 
summer houses, while an occasional 
steeple and a number of windmills, with 
the towers of Delft, Hague, Utrecht, and 
Amsterdam in the far distance, alone 
break the level line of a Dutch horizon. 
Charge for ascending 30 cents. 

The other public buildings are, the 
Exchange , where business is transacted 
daily at 1 (scientific persons visiting 
llotterdam should see the collection of 
philosophical instruments, and the 
library, in the room above it;)— 
the Stadhuis or Town Hall , a large 
building with a Composite portico ;— 
and the house formerly occupied by 
the East India Company, on the 
Boompjes, turned into warehouses since 
the company was broken up ; but none 
of them deserve either minute descrip¬ 
tion or examination. The philosopher 
Bayle, when exiled from France, ended 
his days here, in one of the houses 
on the Boompjes. 

A fine bronze monument of Gysbert 
Karel Van Hogendorf, 1813, by Joseph 
Geefs, will be found in the Van Hogen¬ 
dorf Plein, just behind the Museum. 

The Museum , founded by Jacob Otto 
Boymans, contains about 300 interest¬ 
ing paintings, among which are several 
by Albert Cuyp. A portrait of Erasmus 
by Albert Durer; u The Union of the 
Associated Provinces,” by Rembrandt; 
a portrait by Rubens; two large pieces 
by Ary Scheffer, “Le Coupe de Nappe,” 
and “ Le Larmoyeur.” Also two heads 
of infants—two by Philip AVouverman, 
one by Jan AVouverman. The Museum 
is open every day except Monday. On 
Sundays, from 11 to 3, fee 5 cents; 
other days, from 10 to 4, fee 50 cents. 

One day will suffice to see all that 
is remarkable in llotterdam. 

The English Episcopalian church , at the 
end of the Haringvliet (service at 11 and 
6 every Sunday), was erected 1706 by 
subscriptions from English residents of 
8000/., to which Queen Anne contributed 
500/., and the Duke of Marlborough 
100/. It was used by Napoleon as a 


27 

stable for his horses. There is a Scotch 
Presbyterian church on the Schottsche 
Dijk, erected by the Scotch residents in 
the 17th centy. (service 10 f 30), and an 
English Presbyterian church in the middle 
of the Haringvliet (service at 10 a.m.). 
This, though served by ministers from 
Great Britain, forms part of the National 
Church establishment, the salary be- 
ing paid by the Dutch government. 

The water of the Maas, which is 
drunk here, sometimes causes consider¬ 
able annoyance to persons unaccustomed 
to it: travellers should avoid it (§ 6) 
and drink Selzer water. 

In the suburbs are many places of 
entertainment, with Gardens , not un¬ 
like tea-gardens in England, except 
that some of them are frequented by 
the higher classes of citizens, and par¬ 
take of the nature of a club. Here are 
found billiard and ball rooms, skittle- 
grounds, refreshments of various kinds, 
and much smoking. 

At the AV. end of the town is the 
New Park —beautifully laid out grounds, 
much frequented by the public during 
the summer. On AVednesday evenings 
military concerts, as also on Sundays at 
1, when the ladies of Rotterdam come 
forth in all the glories of dress and 
parade. Within this park is a statue , 
in white marble, of the Dutch popu¬ 
lar poet—the poet-merchant— Pollens, 
Outside the Delft gate, and adjoining 
the rly. stat., are the Zoological Gardens 
(50 cents admission). Beautiful birds 
from Java and Celebes. 

Physicians: Drs. A"an der Pant and 
Maury. 

English and Foreign Rooks, including 
Maps and Handbooks, will be found at 
Mr. Kramers's Library , Gelderscho 
kade. 

There are several Clubs (Amicitia, 
Doelen, Lees Kabinet) here, where Eng¬ 
lish and continental newspapers are 
taken in; a stranger may be introduced 
by a member. 

This was the native place of Adrian 
van der AA r erf,‘ van der Neer, Netseher, 
and Zachtlceven, painters, and of James 
Crofts, Duke of Monmouth, son of 
Charles II. by Lucy AVaters. 

The Post Office (het Postkantoor) is 
in the AVijnstraat. 

c 2 





28 


ROUTE 2. —ROTTERDAM 

Trekschuiten (§ 5) start every hour in 
the day to Delft and the Hague: the 
fare to the Hague is 12 stivers; Delft, 
8 stivers. 

Railways. — Hollandsche Spoonveg 
(Stat. outside of Delfsche Poort), to 
Leiden, Hague, Amsterdam ; — from 
Moerdijk on Hollands Diep to Antwerp 
and Breda. (Rte. 13.) Rijn Spoorweg 
(Stat. on the Qua! above the town), to 
Gouda, Utrecht, Amsterdam, Emmerich, 
Oberhausen, and all parts of Germany. 
Rtes. 9 and 34. Also to Hanover and 
Berlin direct by Salzbergen (Rte. 10 ). 

Steamboats daily to Nijmegen in 8-10; 
to Moerdijk in 2 hours; to Middelburg, 
in Zealand, in 9 ; nearly every hour to 
Dort in If hr.; to Gouda and back 
daily; weekly to Havre and Dunkirk; to 
London every Tucs., Thurs., and Satur¬ 
day ; to Antwerp daily, in 63 hours (see 
Rte. 18); to Bois le Due (Hertogenbosch) 
daily, in 8 hours ; to Hull every Wed¬ 
nesday and Saturday; to Newcastle, 
Glasgow, and Leith every Saturday. 

Cabs , vigilantes, await the arrival of 
every train and steamer; fare, to or 
from the stat., 1 gr.—baggage 15 cents 
extra. 

A steam ferry-boat plies across the 
Maas to Fijenoord , where are exten¬ 
sive steam shipyards and building- 
docks employing 700 men: the fare is 
10 cents. The island of IJsselmonde, 
which here forms the l. bank of the 
Maas, though but 15 m. long by 7 wide, 
is said to be surrounded and intersected 
by dykes measuring 200 m. in length. 

The annual Kermis, or fair, begins 
on the second Monday in August, and 
lasts a week. 


TO AMSTERDAM. DELFT. Sect. I. 


ROUTE 2. * 

ROTTERDAM TO AMSTERDAM, BY DELFT, 

THE HAGUE, LEIDEN, AND HAARLEM. 

—RAILROAD—(HOLLANDSCHE - SPOOR- 

WEG). 

About 52f Eng. m. 9 trains a day; 
to the Hague, 13 m., in 45 min.; to 
Amsterdam in 2| hrs. 

This railway was the first con¬ 
structed in Holland. The difficulties 
of construction arising from the peculiar 
physical character of the ground were 
the least that the company had to con¬ 
tend against, far greater being the 
hostility of the proprietors of the land. 
The part between Haarlem and Am¬ 
sterdam was opened 1839. The engineer 
was the Chevalier F. W. Conrad. 

Trekschuiten to Delft in 2 hrs. 

The old road to Delft is pleasantly 
varied with villas and gardens, and runs 
for a considerable distance alongside of 
the canal, as, indeed is the ease with 
most roads in Holland. 

Terminus at Rotterdam outside the 
Delft gate; rt. Overschie; 1. lies Delf- 
shaven on the Maas. 

Schiedam Stat. —(Inn, none.) The 
town is on the 1 ., surrounded by wind¬ 
mills, and enveloped in everlasting 
smoke, rising from its 300 distilleries of 
gin (jenever, i. e. juniper). Though of 
little interest to the passing traveller, 
Schiedam is one of the wealthiest cities 
of Holland, arising from the great ex¬ 
tent of its shipping and manufactories. 
The human inhabitants of the town 
are 16,000, whilst its porcine population 
amounts to 40,000. (See Rte. 1 .) The 
cattle hereabouts are fed on the grain 
from the distilleries, hence the tubs 
placed in the fields. 

Delft. Stat.— Inn, Den Bolk. On 
the Schie, 8 m. from Rotterdam, 21,700 
Inhab.; and said to derive its name 
from delven, to dig. This town, “ the 
parent of pottery,” has been supplanted, 
even in Holland itself, in its chief article 
of produce, to which it has given a 
name (Delft-ware, in Dutch plateel), by 



Holland. 


ROUTE 2. —DELFT. CHURCHES. 


29 


the superior manufactures of England, 
and the improved taste introduced by 
Wedgwood in the making of pottery. 
All the earthenware now made here is 
of the coarser kind, and employs very 
few persons. 

The government has a school here 
for training candidates for the East 
Indian engineering and civil service. 

The streets appear empty and dull, 
but there is enough to amuse a traveller 
for an hour or two. 

The Stadhuis, in a fine market-place, 
is a picturesque building, in the Dutch 
style (17th centy. ?), of stone, richly de¬ 
corated with cornices, obelisks, pecli- 
mented windows, and pilastered gables. 
In the centre of the roof rises a square 
tower. 

The New Church (b. 1381) in the 
great square contains the costly monu¬ 
ment, clustered with columns and rich 
in marble, hut in very bad taste, erected 
by the United Provinces to the me¬ 
mory of William I., Prince of Orange, 
who was assassinated at Delft, 10th 
July, 1584. Pepys styles it “ a stately 
tomb of marble and brass, wherein, 
among other varieties, there are the 
angels with their trumpets, expressed 
as it were crying.” William’s statue in 
marble, in his robes, with sword and 
sceptre, reclines upon the tomb ; and at 
his feet is the figure of his favourite little 
dog, whose afiection saved his master’s 
life from the midnight attack of some 
Spanish assassins, who had planned to 
murder him while asleep in his camp, 
near Mechlin, 1572. The Spaniards, 
advancing stealthily under cover of the 
darkness, had nearly reached the tent, 
when the vigilance of the dog, whose 
instinct appears to have told him that 
they were enemies, detected their ap¬ 
proach. He instantly jumped upon the 
bed, and, by harking violently and tearing 
off the clothes with his teeth and feet, 
roused his master in time to enable him 
to escape. The faithful animal pined 
to death after his master’s decease. The 
inscription .on the tomb makes mention 
of the dog’s attachment. There is a 
second and better statue of the prince 
under the arch at the head of the tomb, 
eated, in full armour. Beneath is the 
burial-vault of the present royal family 


of Holland. Here also is the simple 
monument of Grotius, who was a native 
of Delft, and is intei’red in this church. 
This church contains a fine organ. 

In the Old v Church (Oude Kerk), 
which has a leaning tower, is the mo¬ 
nument of Admiral Tromp, the veteran 
of 32 sea-fights, who conquered the 
English fleet undef Blake, in the Downs, 
1652, and afterwards sailed through 
the channel with a broom at his mast¬ 
head, to signify that he had swept the 
sea of the English. He was killed at 
last in an engagement, represented in 
bas-relief on his tomb, between Scheven- 
ing and the mouth of the Maas, in 
which the English were victorious. 
“ His epitaph is concluded thus:—‘ Tan¬ 
dem bello Anglico tantum non victor, 
ceite invictus, vivere et vincere dcsiit.’ 
i There is a sea-fight cut in marble, 

| with the smoke the best expressed that 
ever I saw in my life.”— Pepys. In the 
same church are buried Piet Ilein, who 
from a fisher-lad of Delshaven rose 
to be admiral, captured the Spanish 
I silver fleet, and died for his country; 
and Leeuwenhoek, the naturalist, also a 
native of Delft. The Grand Pensionary 
Heinsius, the friend and fellow-coun¬ 
cillor of Marlborough and Eugene, was 
also bom here. 

The house in which AVilliam Prince 
of Orange (born at Dillenburg in 
Nassau) was assassinated by the Jesuits 
is nearly opposite to the W. end of the 
Old Chiuch; it is called the Prinsenhof, 
originally the Convent of St. Agatha, 
and is now a barrack. After crossing 
the court, a small door on the rt. 
leads to the spot where the murder was 
committed. The identical staircase 
which he was about to ascend after din¬ 
ner, and the passage where the mur¬ 
derer Balthazar Gdrard stood,—so near 
to his victim that the pistol must 
almost have touched his body,—will 
assuredly be looked upon with interest 
by every traveller. An inscription, on 
a stone let into the wall, records the 
event; and 3 holes, bored in another 
stone below it, pass for the actual 
marks of the poisoned bullets which killed 
him. He expired in the arms of his 
sister, and his wife (daughter of Coligny, 
who had been murdered in her sight, 








30 


ROUTE 2. —THE HAGUE. 


Sect. 1* 


at the St. Bartholomew massacre)- 
The last words of the hero were, “Mon 
Dieu, aye pitie de moi et de ce pauvre 
peuple! ” The assassin was a native of 
Burgundy, and an avowed agent of 
Philip II. of Spain, and of the Jesuits. 
William had escaped 8 successive mur¬ 
derous attempts, all coming from the 
same quarter. In the month after his 
assassination the states of Holland 
met at Delft, and placed his son Mau¬ 
rice, then a youth of 17, at the head of 
affairs. (See Motley’s ‘ United Nether¬ 
lands.’) 

On an island surrounded by canals, 
near the entrance of the town, is the 
State Arsenal of Holland, an extensive 
and gloomy building, looking like a 
fortress, and ornamented with the arms 
of the ancient Dutch republic. It was 
originally the Dutch East India House. 
Near the Prinsenhof is the College, 
where the engineers of the Water- 
Staat (§, 9) receive instruction in all 
matters relating to the dykes, dams, 
and drainage of Holland—an important 
branch of the national service. 

Okey, Barkstead, and Corbet, the regi¬ 
cides, settled at Delft. They were seized 
in an alehouse here by Sir George Down¬ 
ing, the English envoy at the Hague, 
sent to London, and executed at Tyburn. 

Between Delft and the Hague (about 
4~ m.) the trckschuit will be found 
an agreeable and good conveyance. 
The canal from Delft to Leiden is by 
many considered as being the Fossa 
Corbulonis, and probably a part of the 
ancient excavation has been adopted. 
Corbulus employed his soldiers in exca¬ 
vating this canal in order to unite the 
Phine and the Maes. ( Tacitus , Annal., 
11 , 20 .) 

The country is even more thickly, 
spread over with cottages, villas, coun¬ 
try seats, and gardens (§ 13), than on 
the other side of Delft. On the left of 
the canal and high road, but on the 
right of the railroad, appears the spire 
of the church of Ryswyk, near which 
the famous treaty of peace was signed 
(1697) between England, France, Hol¬ 
land, Germany, and Spain, in a house 
of the Prince of Orange, now removed; 
its site is marked by an obelisk. 

24 m. Tiie Hague St at. (La Haye, 


in French; S’Gravenhage in Dutch; 
Haag in German.) Inns : Hotel Belle¬ 
vue, well situated, facing the park, near 
the Museum and English Chapel; bed, 

1 gr. 50 c.; table d’hote at 5, 2 gr.; tea, 
60 c.; breakfast, 70 c.; wax lights, 40 c. 
Hotel de VEurope, Lange Houtstraat, 
close to the Museum; table-d’hote : 
Marechal Turenne, good. Hotel Paulez 
(Heerenlogement) opposite Theatre, 
comfortable; good table-d’hote. *Oude 
Doelen, very comfortable. (Doel is the 
Dutch for the bull’s eye in the target, 
derived from times when archery was the 
favourite amusement, and the inn the 
place of resort for the various companies 
or guilds of marksmen when the con¬ 
test was decided.) Keizershof (Imperial 
Hotel); Twee Steden (Two Towns). 

The population is 88,000: 25,000 
Rom. Cath. 

Though long the residence of the 
Stadtholders, and now of the Xing of 
Holland, up to the beginning of the 
present century the Hague ranked 
only as a village, because it had neither 
corporation nor walls, and did not re¬ 
turn members to the States General; 
Louis Bonaparte, however, during his 
rule, conferred on it the privileges of a 
city. Other Dutch cities owe their rise 
to commerce or manufactures; this to 
the residence of a comt, the presence of 
the Government and States General, and 
the abode of foreign ministers. Its origin 
may be traced to a hunting-seat' of the 
Counts of Holland, built here in 1250 ; 
and its name to the Counts' Hedge (S'Gra¬ 
ven Hage) surrounding their park. Few 
continental cities have made since 
1850 so much perceptible progress in 
comfort and luxury as the Hague. 
Canals have been drained and con¬ 
verted into handsome streets, palatial 
residences; handsome mansions and 
villas have been erected, and gardens 
and parks been laid out with an expen¬ 
sive profusion. 

The principal streets are, the Voor- 
hout, lined with trees and bordered 
with splendid hotels ; the Prinsesse- 
gracht, Kncuterdijk, and Noord Einde. 
The Yijverberg (the fish-pond hill) 
is a square or place, with avenues of 
trees forming a shady promenade on 
the one side, and a piece of water on 





Holland, r. 2 . —the Hague. binnenhof. museum of pictures. 31 


the other. It is in. Holland alone 
that so gentle a rise in the ground as 
is here perceptible would be dignified 
with the name of a hill. 

On the S. side of the Vijverberg 
stands the Binnenhof , so called because 
it formed the “inner court” of the 
Count’s palace, an irregular building of 
various dates. The Gothic hall in the 
centre of it, now used for the drawing 
of the lottery ( Loterijzaal ), and criminal 
court ( ffoog Geregtshof ), is the oldest 
building in the Hague, and the only re¬ 
maining fragment of the original palace 
of the Counts of Holland. It is a fine 
room, with a pointed roof, supported by 
a Gothic framework of wood, somewhat 
in the style of that of Westminster Hall. 
It possesses some interest in an histo¬ 
rical point of view; since, upon a scaf¬ 
folding erected opposite to the door, on 
a level with the top of the steps, the 
virtuous and inflexible Barneveld, 
Grand Pensionary of Holland, was be¬ 
headed in 1618, at the ago of 72. This 
event is a stain on the character of 
Prince Maurice of Nassau; but it is 
not true, as some have asserted, that he i 
looked on from a side window dining 
his rival’s execution. The people be¬ 
held it with tears; and many came to 
gather the sand wet with his blood 
to keep it carefully in phials. The 
Chambers of the States General or 
Dutch parliament, and several of the 
public offices, are situated in the Bin- 
nenhof. The public are freely ad¬ 
mitted to the debates of both Chambers. 

Between the Buitenhof (Outer Court) 
and the Vijverberg is an old gate-tower, 
called Gevangenpoort (prison-gate), re¬ 
markable as the place in which Corne¬ 
lius De Witt was confined, 1G72, on a false 
charge of conspiring to assassinate the 
Prince of Orange. The populace, in¬ 
cited to fury by the calumnies circu- j 
lated against him and his brother John, I 
the Grand Pensionary, broke into the 
prison at a moment when the latter 
had been enticed hither by a report that 
his brother’s life was in danger, dragged 
them forth, and literally tore them to 
pieces, with ferocity more befitting 
wild beasts than human beings. The j 


State Prisons, besides the interest they 
possess from historical associations, are 
curious, on account of “ the tortures in¬ 
flicted on the prisoners (within the last 
two centuries), not sin-passed in cruelty 
even at Venice in its worst times : the 
rack, the pulley, the oubliettes, &c., are 
still shown.”— L. Fm. A few yards 
from the spot where the De Witts were 
murdered, in the Kneuterdijk, opposite 
the Hertogstraatje, may be seen the mo¬ 
dest mansion of the Grand Pensionary 
De Witt, who, though the first citizen of 
the richest country in the world, and 
perhaps the profoundest statesman in 
Europe, baffling the encroaching policy 
of France, and frightening London with 
the roar of his cannon in the Thames, 
was never seen in public but in the 
most homely dress, kept only a single 
servant, and rarely made use of a coach. 
Barneveld lived in a house which now 
forms part of the hotel of the Minister 
of Finance in the Lange Voorhout. 

The Royal Museum comprises *Pic- 
turc Gallery and Cabinet of Curiosities, 
and is situated in the building called 
Maurits Huis, from Prince Maurice 
of Nassau, Governor of Brazil, and 
afterwards of Cleve, by whom it was 
built. It is between the Plein and 
the Vijver. They are open to the pub¬ 
lic daily, except Sunday, from 9 to 3, 
on Saturday from 10^ to 1. At other 
times, when the Gallery is opened ex¬ 
pressly for strangers, it is usual to give 
the door-keeper a guilder. 

The Picture Gallery is almost entirely 
confined to the works of Dutch mas¬ 
ters, and contains some of their finest 
works. Open daily, free, 10 to 4. 

N.B.—In'the last week of April the 
gallery is closed, in order to be cleaned, 
and the pictures are taken down. 

The most remarkable pictures are 
arranged in alphabetical order in the 
following list,— 

Berghem: An Italian View. — Ban¬ 
ditti robbing a Caravan: excellent. 

Ferdinand Bol: Portrait of Admiral 
de Buyter. 

John Breughel: “Two pictures of 
flowers and fruits, with animals; one 
serves for a border to a bad portrait (?), 
the other (called the Flight into Egypt) 







32 ROUTE 2.— THE HAGUE. 

to a picture of Rottenhamer: the frames 
are much better than the pictures.”— R. 
Figures by Rubens. Paradise. The 
largest and best of Breughel’s pictures 
on this subject: see Kugler. 

Gerard Rome: A Woman sitting 
near a window, with a child in a 
Cradle ; a very pleasing picture. — “A 
woman with a light.” R. Very highly 
finished. 

Albert Barer : Two portraits, said to 
be of Laurence Coster, the inventor of 
printing, and P. Aretin. 

Be Heem: “Fruit, done with the 
utmost perfection.” R. 

Van der Heist: Portrait of Paul Potter, 
taken a few days before his death. 

Hoekgeest (a rare master): The tomb 
of William Prince of Orange in the 
New Church, Delft. “It is painted in 
the manner of De Witt, hut I think 
better.” R. 

Holbein: A small portrait of a 
man with a hawk; on it is written 
Robert Cheseman, 1533. “Admirable 
for its truth and precision, and ex¬ 
tremely well coloured. The blue flat 
ground behind the head gives a general 
effect of dryness to the picture: had 
the ground been varied, and made to 
harmonise more with the figure, this 
portrait might have stood in compe¬ 
tition with the works of the best por¬ 
trait painters.” R. —Jane Seymour.—A 
portrait called Sir Thomas More; on 
it is the date 1542: it is quite unlike 
Sir T. More, who was beheaded 6 July, 
1535 :—fine portraits. 

Hondekoeter fy Weenix: One or two 
admirable specimens of these masters, 
representing birds and game alive and 
dead. 

Van Huissum: Fruit and flower pieces. 

Keyzer: Four Burgomasters of Ani- 
' sterdam deliberating on the reception 
of Mary de Medici into their city. 
“A very good picture.”—A small full- 
length of a Magistrate in black: excel¬ 
lent. 

Lingelbach: The Departure of Charles 
II. from Scheveningen for England in 
1660. 

Metzu: Emblematical representation 
of Justice. 

F. Mieris: Boy blowing bubbles. 
“ Dutch gallantry: a man pinching the 


MUSEUM OF PICTURES. Sect. I. 

ear of a dog, which lies on his mistress’s 
lap.” R. Called in the catalogue, 
The Painter and his Wife. 

A. Van Ostade: “ The exterior and 
interior of a cottage.” 

Paul Potter: ** Young Bull,—his 
masterpiece, remarkable as one of the 
few examples in which the artist painted 
animals as large as life. “There can¬ 
not be a greater contrast to a very ge¬ 
neralised mode of treatment than that 
displayed in the celebrated picture of 
1 The Bull,’ by P. Potter, which ap¬ 
proaches the nearest to deception of any 
really fine work of art I have seen. 
The painter seems to have omitted no¬ 
thing that he saw in nature which art 
could represent, and yet its reality is 
free from any still-life unpleasantness. 
It is admired for its truth, but to a 
cultivated eye it has that something 
more than mere truth that is indis¬ 
pensable to a work of art; it has great 
taste throughout—displayed no less in 
the general arrangement of the masses 
and forms than in the most minute 
particulars. The grandeur of the sky, 
and the beautiful treatment of the 
distant meadow, show that the painter 
had the power of seizing the finest 
characteristics of the large features 
of nature, while the exquisite manner 
in which the beautiful forms of the 
leaves of a dock, and their colours, com¬ 
pose with one of the legs of the young 
bull, display as fine an eye for her 
most intricate beauties. Throughout 
the picture, indeed, we see that the 
hand has been directed by the eye of 
a consummate artist, and not merely 
by a skilful copyist.” C. R. Leslie , R.A. 
This picture was carried to Paris by the 
French, and was classed by them fourth 
in value of all the paintings then in the 
Louvre; the Transfiguration, by Ra¬ 
phael, ranking first; the Commu¬ 
nion of St. Jerome, by Domenichino, 
second; and Titian’s Peter Martyr, third. 
They who know those three great works 
will probably be startled at the place 
thus assigned to this picture. Paul 
Potter’s Bull has been valued at 5000/.; 
the Dutch government, it is stated, of¬ 
fered Napoleon 4 times that sum if he 
would consent to suffer it to remain at 
the Hague.—The Cow chinking; “ finely 






Holland. route 2.—the hague. museum of pictures. 


33 


painted, remarkable for the strong re* 
flection in the water.” R.* 

Poussin: Venus asleep: a Satyr 
drawing off the drapery. R. The 
painting to which Sir Joshua alludes 
is probably described in the catalogue 
as the Dream of Astolpho, from Ariosto, 
by one of Rubens’s scholars. 

Rembrandt : “ The Lesson in Ana¬ 
tomy,” a Surgeon, Professor Tulp, 
attended by his Pupils, proceeding 
to dissect a Dead Body. Though 
an unpleasing subject, it is a most 
wonderful painting, and one of the 
artist’s finest works. “To avoid 
making it an object disagreeable to look 
at, the figure is but just cut at the 
wrist and fore-arm. There are 7 other 
portraits, coloured like nature itself, 
fresh and highly finished; one of the 
figures behind has a paper in his hand, 
on which are written the names of the 
rest. Rembrandt has also added his own 
name, with the date, 1632. The dead 
body is perfectly well drawn (a little 
fore-shortened), and seems to have been 
just washed. Nothing can be more 
truly the colour of dead flesh. The 
legs and feet, which are nearest the 
eye, are in shadow; the principal light, 
which is on the body, is by that means 
preserved of a compact form.” R. 
Physicians assert that they can ascer¬ 
tain that it is the body of a person who 
died from inflammation of the lungs. 
This picture formerly stood in the An¬ 
atomy School (Snijkamer) of Amster¬ 
dam, but was purchased by the King 
for 32,000 guilders (2700/.)—Portrait 
of an officer with hat and feathers: 
“ for colouring and force nothing can 
exceed it.” R. —St. Simeon receiving 
the Infant Jesus in the Temple.—“ A 
study of Susanna for a picture. It 
appears very extraordinary that Rem¬ 
brandt should have taken so much 
pains, and have made at last so very 
ugly and ill-favoured a figure; but his 
attention was principally directed to 
the colouring and effect, in which, it 
must be acknowledged, he has attained 
the highest degree of excellence.” R. 

Rubens: His first wife, Catherine 

* The quotations marked R. are derived 
1‘rom Sir Joshua Reynolds’ * Tour in Holland 
and Flanders.’ 


Brintes; and his second wife, Helena 
Forman: “both fine portraits; but 
the last by far the most beautiful 
and the best coloured.” R. —Portrait of 
his confessor. 

Schalken: A Lady at her Toilette. A 
beautiful candlelight effect. — Portrait 
of William III. 

Snyders: “A large hunting piece, 
well painted, but it occupies too much 
space. His works, from the subjects, 
their size, and, we may add, from their 
being so common, seem to be better 
suited to a hall or ante-room than any 
other place.” R. The landscape is by 
Rubens. 

Jan Steen: The Menagerie, one of his 
best works. In the distance the house 
at Hondsholrcdijk.—Human life (see 
Kugler, German and Dutch Schools); 
and other very good pictures. 

Teniers : “An alchemist.” — “A 
kitchen.” R. 

Terburg: A Woman seated on the 
ground, leaning her elbow against a 
man’s knee, and a trumpeter delivering 
a letter.” R. 

Unknown: Portrait of the Emperor 
Charles V.; a sketch. 

Vanderwerf: The Flight into Egypt: 
“ one of his best.” R. 

Van Dyk: Six portraits of the Huy¬ 
gens family. — Portrait of Simon, a 
painter of Antwerp. “This is one of 
the very few pictures that can be seen 
of Van Dyk which is in perfect preser¬ 
vation; and, on examining it closely, 
it appeared to me a perfect pattern of 
portrait-painting; every part is dis¬ 
tinctly marked, but with the lightest 
hand, and without destroying the 
breadth of light: the colouring is per¬ 
fectly true to nature, though it has not 
the brilliant effect of sunshine such as 
is seen in Rubens’s wife: it is nature 
seen by common daylight.” R. —Two 
fine portraits of a Gentleman, and 
“ a Lady with a feather in 1 er 
hand; ” R. : called, incorrectly, the 
Duke and Duchess of Buckingham; 
from the coat of arms in the corner, 
they are probably either Dutch or Ger¬ 
man.—“A Virgin and Infant Christ, 
coloured in the manner of Rubens, so 
much so as to appear, at first sight, to 
be of his hand; but the character of 

c 3 








34 


ROUTE ' 2 .—THE HAGUE. MUSEUM. 


the child shows it to he Van Dyk’s.” 
R. The only picture in the gallery 
answering to this description is one at¬ 
tributed (and to all appearance cor¬ 
rectly) to Murillo. 

Velasquez: Portrait of a hoy: said 
to he Charles Balthazar, son of Philip 
IV. of Spain. 

A. Van de Velde: The seashore at 
Schevening. 

Vernet: A storm at sea. 

Wouvermans: A Battle-piece ; “ The 
Hay Cart; ” and “ The Manege three 
excellent specimens of this artist. ‘ ‘ Here 
are many of the best works of Wouver- 
mans, whose pictures are well worthy 
the attention and close examination of 
a painter. One of the most remarkable 
of them is known by the name of the 
Hay Cart: another, in which there is 
a coach and horses, is equally excellent. 
These pictures are in his three different 
manners : his middle manner is by 
much the best; the first and last have 
not that liquid softness which charac¬ 
terises his best works. Besides his 
great skill in colouring, his horses are 
correctly drawn, very spirited, of a 
beautiful form, and always in unison 
with their ground. Upon the whole, 
he is one of the few painters whose ex¬ 
cellence, in his way, is such as leaves 
nothing to be wished for.” R. 

The * Royal Cabinet of Curiosities , a 
highly interesting collection, is placed 
in the lower story of the Maurits Huis. 
Several apartments are occupied en¬ 
tirely with objects of curiosity from 
China and Japan, and rare productions 
brought from the Dutch colonies; one 
division is devoted to historical relics of 
distinguished persons. Some of the most 
remarkable objects arc here enumerated, 
but a catalogue is almost indispens¬ 
able. 

The costumes of China, illustrated by 
figures of persons of various ranks, in 
porcelain, as the Emperor, a Bonze or 
Priest, Mandarins, &c., each in his pe¬ 
culiar dress. An immense variety of 
articles manufactured by the Chinese in 
porcelain. Figures and other objects 
elaborately carved in ivory, mother-of- 
pearl, and soap-stone or steatite. A 
chess-board, differing but little from that 
of Europe; articles in daily use amongst 


Sect. i. 

the Chinese, as the chopsticks, which 
serve instead of knives and forks; the 
calculating table (swampon, or abacus), 
with which they cast accounts; speci¬ 
mens of visiting cards 2 feet square, &c.; 
and a view of the palace of the Emperor 
of China at Pekin. 

The rarities from Japan are unique , 
as the Dutch, previously to the Treaty 
of 1858, were the only European 
nation admitted into that country, and 
had therefore alone opportunities for 
procuring curiosities. They give a most 
satisfactory insight into the manners 
and habits of that remote and highly 
civilised country. A plan of Jeddo, 
the metropolis of Japan, a city of 
at least 2,000,000 Inhab., and 20 
leagues in circumference. A curious 
model, made by the Japanese, with the 
most minute attention to details, of the 
island of Decima, the Dutch Factory in 
Japan. Several hundred figures are in¬ 
troduced into it, giving a precise idea of 
the occupation of the people, the furni¬ 
ture of their houses, their dress, &c.— 
The Deities of China and Japan in porce¬ 
lain, &c. A whole wardrobe of J apanese 
dresses, made of silks and other stuffs. 

A large collection of Japan ware, as 
boxes, trays, tea-chests, &c., of far finer 
workmanship and more elaborately 
painted than the ordinary specimens 
commonly met with in Europe. Japan¬ 
ese weapons, particularly various species 
of krits or dirks, and swords, of remark¬ 
ably fine steel, which in temper are said 
to surpass anything which Birmingham, 
or even Damascus, can produce. The 
J apanese are tremendously expert in the 
use of this their favourite weapon: with 
one blow they can sever a man’s body 
in twain. The upper classes of society 
claim the privilege of wearing two 
swords at once. The matchlock barrels 
deposited here are excellent in the 
quality of the steel and in the beauty of 
the workmanship. Among the articles 
of military equipment is a coat of Ja¬ 
panese mail, with a steel visor formed 
into a grotesque face, and •ornamented 
with mustachios of bristles and horns of 
brass. A Norim on, or Japanese palan¬ 
quin. The needles and other apparatus 
j with which the operation of acupunc¬ 
ture is performed by the Japanese 






35 


Holland. route 2.—the iiague. 

physicians, arc descrying the attention 
of medical men. 

Many cases arc entirely filled with 
dresses, arms, implements, canoes, and 
household utensils of savage nations, 
from various parts of the world. Here 
is a model of Fieschi’s infernal machine, 
and a Russian knout. 

Among the Historical Relics are the 
armour of Admiral de Ruitcr, with the 
medal and chain given him by the States 
General. The baton of Admiral Piet 
Ilein. The armour of Admiral Tromp, 
with the marks of more than one bullet 
on it. The chairs of Jacqucline of Hol¬ 
land, and of Barnevcld, brought from 
his prison. The portrait and sword of 
Van Speyk, who blew up his vessel 
before Antwerp, 1S31; and the chair on 
which General Chasse sat during the 
siege of the citadel. A portion of the 
bed on which the Czar Peter slept in 
his hut at Zaandam. The shirt and 
waistcoat worn by William III. of Eng¬ 
land the last three days of his life. A 
specimen of the beggar’s bowl (jatte de 
Gueitx ) which formed a part of the in¬ 
signia of the confederate chiefs who 
freed Holland from the yoke of Spain, 
worn by them along with a wallet, as 
symbols of the name of beggar (gueux), 
with which their enemies intended to 
have stigmatised them. A ball of wood, 
full of nails, each driven in by one of 
the confederates when they swore to be 
faithful to one another and stedfast in 
the enterprise. The dress of William 
Prince of Orange on the day when he 
was murdered- at Delft by Balthazar 
Gerard. It is a plain grey leathern 
doublet, sprinkled with blood, pierced 
by the balls, and showing marks of the 
powder. By the side of it is the pistol 
used by the assassin, and two of the 
fatal bullets. A model of the cabin in 
which Peter the Great resided while a 
shipbuilder at Zaandam. A large baby- 
house, fitted up to show the nature of a 
Dutch menage, intended by Peter as a 
present to his wife. 

Opposite to the Palace of the King of 
Holland, in the Noord Einde, is the New 
Palace , built in the Gothic style by 
the late King (who died 1849), and since 
his death has been uninhabited. 

The Royal Library in the Yoorhout 


ROYAL LIBRARY, ETC. 

consists of about 100,000 vols., open to 
the public on Mon.,Wed.,and Fri. Here 
may be seen the. prayer-books, richly 
adorned with miniatures,of Philip le Bon, 
of Catherine de’ Medici and Catherine of 
Aragon, and a Bible presented to Wil¬ 
liam and Mary of England at their 
coronation, with these words in the 
title-page, in the Queen’s own hand: 
“ This book was given the king and I 
at our crownation. Marie R.” Among 
the MSS. is a copy of the Treaty of 
Utrecht; the original is in the Archives. 

The collection of medals (to the num¬ 
ber of 35,000) and of gems in the same 
building is very extensive and rich. 
There are 300 cameos, the greater part 
antique—among them, the apotheosis of 
Claudius, one of the largest known, and 
of fine workmanship. Among the modern 
cameos, a portrait of Queen Elizabeth is 
very fine. 

The lover of the fine arts ought not to 
quit the Hague without visiting the Pri¬ 
vate Cabinets of M. Weimar (chiefly 
miniatures), Noordeinde :—and of M. 
Stecngracht, on the Yijverberg, which 
contains fine works of Teniers , Jan 
Steen , Mieris , Van der Velde , Metzu y 
Backliuysen , Rembrandt ; 2 portraits 

by Van dcr Ilelst , 2 by C. Netscher, a 
Paul Potter , 2 portraits by Gerard 
Dow , a De Hooghe; and in the first 
room are some good modern Dutch 
pictures. It is shown daily before 12 : 
a fee to the intelligent servant, who 
shows it, is well deserved. 

The cabinet of the late Baron de 
Westreencn, bequeathed by him to the 
nation, in his house, now Museum Meer- 
manno-Westreenen, Princessen-Gracht, 
contains, besides a fine collection of coins 
and antiquities, several works of early 
art. There are specimens of Byzantine 
art and works of Cimabue , Giotto , Duccio , 
Ambrogio Lauratti , J. van Eych , and of 
the early schools of Florence, Pisa, and 
Sienna. 

Statues. —A fine bronze Statue of 
William I., Prince of Orange, by M. 
Royer, stands in the middle of the 
Plein , near the Museum. His faithful 
dog bears him company (see Delft). 
Statue of William II., King of the 
Netherlands, in the Buitcnhof, erected 
by the nation, 1853. Equestrian Statue 









36 


ROUTE 2. —THE HAGUE. BOSCH. SCHEVENINGEN. Sect. I. 


of William I. (the Silent), Prince of 
Orange, opposite the King’s Palace, 
erected 1854. 

English Ch. service on Sundays at 11 
and 7, in an iron ch. brought oyer from 
England and set down in the Kazerne 
Straat, 7 min. walk from the Bellevue. 

Huygens, the inventor of the pendu¬ 
lum clock, and William III. of England, 
were natives of the Hague. 

A number of tame storks may be seen 
stalking about in the Fish Market , where 
a small house like a dog-kennel has been 
built for them. They are kept at the 
public expense for the same reason that 
bears are kept at Berne and eagles at 
Geneva—because the arms of the Hague 
are a stork. 

Th eStadhuis, though small, is interest¬ 
ing (b. 1564), its fa 9 ade ornamented 
with carving and statues, surmounted 
by a tower. 

The Post Office (Postkantoor) is in the 
Place, adjoining the Stad/mis and the 
Groote Kerk. Telegraph Office, Bin- 
nenhof. 

In the Theatre (Schouwburg , at the 
angle of the Wijde Voorhoul) French 
operas arc performed twice a week, and 
Dutch twice, in autumn and winter. 

There is a brass-cannon foundry at 
the Hague, opposite the Malibaan. 

Be Boer's Bazaar , Zee Straat, on way 
to Scheveningen, has a wonderful col¬ 
lection of Chinese and Japanese cu¬ 
riosities, bronzes, jewels, &c. 

At the Hague the water is more stag¬ 
nant than in almost any other part of 
Holland. Though so near the sea, the 
canals and streams do not empty them¬ 
selves into it, on the contrary flow from 
it. A steam-engine outside the town 
raises up water from the Dunes and con¬ 
veys it to the Yij verberg, whose stagnant 
Water it displaces into the canals, and, 
at last, effecting a feeble current through 
the Hague, pushes out a portion into the 
canal leading to Delft. From Delft 
the water barely flows to the borders 
of the Meuse, above Hotter dam, where it 
i f again pumped up and discharged into 


that river. This may be well seen in a 
clear day from the top of St. James's 
church. 

The Zoological and Botanical Garden 
contains some rare animals and plants, 
and is prettily laid out. 

On the outskirts of the town, about 
a mile distant, at the side of the road to 
Haarlem, lies the palace called the House 
in the Wood (Huis ten Bosch), now 
the private residence of the Queen of 
the Netherlands. The billiard-room is 
hung round with family portraits— 
among them the Governor of Friesland 
by Van JDgk, and the children of 
Charles I. by Netscher. The great 
hall, called Oranje Zaal (Orange Hall), 
was built by a Princess of Solms, grand¬ 
mother of our William III., and deco¬ 
rated with paintings in honoiu' of her 
husband, Prince Frederick Henry of 
Orange. “ It is painted on every side, 
and every recess and corner has some 
allegorical story by Jordaens, Yan Tul- 
den, Lievens, or Hondthorst. The dif¬ 
ferent hands that have been here em¬ 
ployed make variety, it is true, but it is 
variety of ivretchcdness. A triumphal 
entry, by Jordaens, is the best, and this 
is but a confused business: the only part 
which deserves any commendation is the 
four horses of the chariot, which are 
well painted. It is remarkable that the 
foremost leg of each horse is raised, 
which gives them the formality of 
trained soldiers.”— R. The picture no 
doubt displays much bad taste and 
drawing; but the group of female 
prisoners and that of Yenus and her 
nymphs have all the brilliant transpa¬ 
rency of Hubens’ colouring. The next 
in merit is that of Neptune stilling the 
tempest—“ Quos ego,” also by Jordaens. 
The apartments which surround this 
hall were added afterwards. Some of 
the rooms are himg with Chinese silk. 

The Bosch , or Wood, a dull park, 
nearly 2 m. long, abounds in forest- 
trees, here allowed to grow as nature 
intended them, unclipped. A military 
band plays here on Wed. and Sun. 
afternoons. 

Scheveningen, about 3 m. from the 
Hague, on the sea-shore, is a fishing 






Holland. 


ROUTE 2.—HAGUE TO LEIDEN. 


37 


village of 8000 Inhab. It is much 
frequented by the aristocracy of Hol¬ 
land, though it is perhaps the dearest 
and least satisfactory of bathing- 
places in Europe. Omnibuses every hr. 
from the Yijver Plaatz. The carriages 
of the Tramway Companies leave the 
Hague every half-hour for Schcven- 
ingen. Fare 20 and 30 cents. The 
road from the Hague to Scheveningen 
passes through a long avenue of trees, 
and is one of the most pleasant walks 
in Holland. A little to the right of 
the road on returning is Zorgvliet, once 
the residence of the poet Jacob Cats: a 
stone tablet at which he used to write, 
with a hole cut in it for an inkstand, is 
shown in the garden. 

The costume worn by the fishwives 
of Scheveningen is singular. The fisher¬ 
men convey their fish to the Hague 
in carts drawn by dogs; in returning 
the master supplies the place of the fish, 
and may he seen, to use the words of the 
facetious author of Yathek, “ airing 
himself in a one-dog chaise.” 

The sand-hills thrown up by the wind 
along the beach conceal all views of the 
sea till the traveller is close upon it. 

Scheveningen was the place from 
which Charles II. embarked for England 
at the Restoration ; and here the Prince 
of Orange landed in 1813, some months 
before the downfall of Buonaparte. The 
village originally extended some way 
beyond the church towards the sea; but 
that portion of it was swallowed up by 
a dreadful inundation, 1570. Alongside 
of the fishing village has sprung up a 
collection of elegant villas, including 
that of Prince Frederick; in front of 
these runs a terrace paved with clinkers. 

To the right of the village, in the 
midst of a desert of undulating sand¬ 
hills (see Dunes, § 12), is a pavilion of 
the late Queen of Holland; and, be¬ 
yond it, the Grand Hotel des Bains , 
which unite the accommodations of 
an Hotel and Cafe with warm baths ; 
while bathing-machines are provided 
on the shore for those who prefer a 
cold bath in the sea. The house be¬ 
longs to the Corporation of the Hague, 
and prices are fixed by tariff. The 
charges are veiy high. Apartments let 
at 3, 2, and 1 guilders per diem; but an 


allowance is made to persons who take 
up their abode for several weeks. Table- 
d’hote (open Tafel) at 4, 2 fl.; a bottle 
of vin ordinaire, 1 fl. 50 c; dinner in 
private, from 1 fl. 50 c. to 2 fl. 50. c.; 
breakfast with tea or coffee, 60 c.; a 
warm bath, 1 fl. 10 c.; a bathing- 
machine, 1 fl. Petit H. des Bains more 
moderate, but bad smells. Fish may 
be had here in great perfection, and are 
generally eaten at breakfast. There is 
a large Restaurant on the Dunes. 


Railway, Hague to Leiden. — Trains 
5 times a day to Leiden, 10 miles (i 
hour), Haarlem, Amsterdam, and 6 times 
to Rotterdam. 

rt. See the spire of the ch. of Voor- 
burg , a small hamlet E. of the Hague, 
near the site of the Forum Hadriani of 
the Romans. Remains of Roman build¬ 
ings, baths, broken potteiy, utensils, 
and other articles of much interest, have 
been dug up here, and are now to be 
seen in the museum at Leiden. Hear 
Voorburg isHofwyk,the house where the 
brothers Huygens lived. (See Rte. 10.) 

Between the Hague and Leiden are 
many country houses and gardens, with 
their meandering walks, formal clipped 
hedges, and parterres cut in patterns 
filled with flowers. There is an undu¬ 
lation in the surface of the groimd, 
which shows that this part of the coun¬ 
try was originally in a great degree 
composed of Dunes (§ 12) similar to 
those now forming along the sea-shore. 

Nieuwer Oosteinde St at. 

Voorschoten Stat. 

The narrowed stream of the Rhine is 
crossed near Yink, before reaching Lei¬ 
den, by a timber bridge with 5 openings, 
one of which is furnished with sliding- 
platforms, in order to allow the masts of 
vessels to pass. The Leiden station 
stands on such bad ground that it was 
necessary to construct a raft, placed 
upon oak piles, to receive the foundation 
of the building! 

37 m. Leiden Stat .—No good Inn. 










38 


ROUTE 2. —LEIDEN. THE SIEGE. 


Sect. 1. 


De Zon Hotel Vcrhaaf, very fair. 
Cafe Zomerzorg, in a garden near the 
Stat. Leiden may be seen by non- 
scientific travellers in 3 or 4 hrs., leav¬ 
ing luggage at the stat. Take a vigi¬ 
lante at 1 gr. the hr. 

Leiden, situated on that branch of 
the Bhine which alone retains its ori¬ 
ginal name as far as the sea, and which 
here resembles an artificial canal, has 
38,300 Inhab., but is built to hold 
90,000. In its present name may still 
he traced that which the Bomans gave 
it— Lugdunum Batavorum. In the centre 
of the town is the fragment of a round 
tower, de Burg , built on a mound of 
earth: it is said to have been raised by 
Drusus, though attributed by some to the 
Anglo-Saxon Ilengist. There is a walk 
round the top of it, but it is not suffi¬ 
ciently high to afford a good view of the 
town. It stands in a tea-garden, and 
10 cents, or 2 stivers, is charged to each 
person for admission. Leiden has 8 
gates, and is surrounded by a moat, and 
ramparts which have been tastefully ar¬ 
ranged as public walks. It is divided 
by the Bhine into 50 islets joined by 
145 stone bridges. 

The Toicn Hall ( Stadhuis ), in the 
Breedstraat (Broad Street, the prin¬ 
cipal and longest in the town), is a 
singular hut picturesque old building, 
erected in 1574. In the council and 
audience chambers, on the first floor, 
are several pictures: among them the 
Last Judgment, by Lucas Van Leyden , 
an extraordinary composition, but which 
must be judged with reference to the 
period when it was done—it has been 
much injured; a Crucifixion, by Corne¬ 
lius Engelbrecht ; several good portraits 
of the city guard, by Vanschooten . 
There is a picture by Van Bree, a modern 
artist, together with a portrait, by Govert 
Flinch, , of the burgomaster, Peter Van- 
derwerf, who so bravely defended the 
town during the memorable siege of 
1574, and here, with inflexible forti¬ 
tude, resisted the summons to surrender 
made by the starving and tumultuous 
mob of townsfolk, when they broke into 
the council-chamber. Here is the shop- 
board of Jan Beukcler, the Anabaptist 
leader, better known as John of Leiden. 


Leiden has been rendered celebrated 
in the annals of the Low Countries, 
and, indeed, in the history of the world, 
by the siege which it endured from the 
Spaniards under Valdez in 1573-4. The 
defence of the place was intrusted to 
John Vander Does; the burgomaster of 
the town was Pieter Adrianzoon Van- 
derwerf; and the example of heroism 
and endurance afforded by the citizens 
under their guidance has not been sur¬ 
passed in any country. When Yander 
Does was ui'gcd by Valdez to surrender, 
he replied, in the name of the inhabit¬ 
ants, that “ when provisions failed them 
they would devour their left hands, re¬ 
serving their right to defend their 
liberty.” For nearly four months the 
inhabitants had held out without mur¬ 
muring ; every individual, even to the 
women and children, taking a share in 
the defence. For seven weeks bread 
had not been seen within the walls; 
provisions had been exhausted, and the 
horrors of famine had driven the be¬ 
sieged to appease their hunger with the 
flesh of horses, dogs, cats, and other foul 
animals; roots and weeds were eagerly 
sought for. So strictly was the block¬ 
ade maintained, that every attempt on 
the part of their friends to throw in pro¬ 
visions had failed. Pestilence came in 
the train of famine, and carried off at 
least 6000 of the inhabitants, so that 
the duty of burying them was almost 
too severe for those who were left, worn 
out by fatigue, watching, and emacia¬ 
tion. At length two carrier pigeons 
flew into the town, bearing tidings that 
relief was at hand. The Prince of 
Orange had finally adopted the deter¬ 
mination of cutting the dykes of the 
Maas and IJssel, to relieve the heroic 
town. As this fearful alternative could 
not be resorted to without involving in 
ruin the whole province of Holland, it is 
not to be wondered at that it was only 
adopted after much hesitation and as a 
last resoiwce. But the inundation, even 
when the water was admitted, did not 
produce the anticipated results; although 
the country between Gouda, Dort, Bot- 
terdam, and Leiden was submerged, it 
j only rose a few feet. The flotilla of 200 
boats, built by the Prince of Orange at 
| Bottcrdam, and manned by 800 Zealand- 








Holland. 

ers under Boisot, destined for the relief 
of the town, was thus prevented ap¬ 
proaching it, though the inhabitants 
could easily descry it from their walls. 
Then it was that, driven frantic by dis¬ 
appointment as well as suffering, they 
approached, in a tumultuous mob, the 
burgomaster, and demanded from him, 
peremptorily, bread or the surrender of 
the town. “ I have sworn to defend 
this city,” answered the heroic governor, 
“ and by God’s help I mean to keep 
that oath. Bread I have none ; but, if 
my body can afford you relief and enable 
you to prolong the defence, take it and 
tear it to pieces, and let those who are 
most hungry among you share it.” Such 
noble devotion was not without its 
effect: the most clamorous were abashed, 
and they all retired in silence; but, for¬ 
tunately the misery of the besieged was 
now nearly at an end, and another 
power above that of man effected the 
relief of the town of Leiden. The wind, 
which had for many weeks been in the 
N.E., changed to the n.w., driving the 
tide up the river ; it then suddenly 
veered to the s., and one of those violent 
and continued storms which, even when 
the dykes are entire, cause such anxiety 
for the safety of the country, acting 
with accumulated violence upon the 
waters, widened the breaches already 
cut in the dykes, and drove in the flood 
upon the land with the force of an over¬ 
whelming torrent. The inundation not 
only spread as far as the walls of Leiden, 
but with such suddenness that the ram¬ 
parts thrown up by the Spaniards were 
surrounded, and more than 1000 of their 
soldiers were overwhelmed by the flood. 
The same tide which swept them away 
earned the flotilla of boats of the Prince 
of Orange, laden with provisions, to the 
gates of Leiden. An amphibious battle 
was fought among the branches of the 
trees, partly on the dykes, partly in 
boats, and in the end the Spaniards, who 
had boasted that it was as impossible for 
the Dutch to save Leiden from their 
hands as to pluck the stars from heaven, 
Avere dri\ r en from their palisades and | 
entrenchments. This almost miraculous 
deliverance took place on the 3rd of Oc¬ 
tober, 1574, a day still commemorated [ 
by the citizens. As an additional proof j 


39 

of Divine interference on this occasion, 
the Dutch historians remark that the 
wind from the s.av., which had carried 
the water up to the Avails, after three 
days turned to the n.e., so as effectually 
to drive it back again. Thus it might 
avcII bo said that both wind and water 
fought in the defence of Leiden.—(See 
Motley’s ‘ ltise of the Dutch Re¬ 
public.’) 

The spirit Avhich then animated the 
Dutch nation is by no means extinct, as 
their patriotic exertions after the sepa¬ 
ration of their country from Belgium, 
in 1830, have shoAvn. At the first call 
the whole of the students of this and 
other Dutch universities quitted their 
studies, and, enrolling themselves iuto 
a corps, marched to the frontier, and 
not only distinguished themselves in 
the conflicts that took place, but re¬ 
mained in arms for the space of one 
year as volunteers. 

The University is remarkable, not 
only as one of the most distinguished 
schools of learning in Europe, and 
for the valuable museums attached 
to it, but also on account of its origin 
and foundation, Avhich dates from the 
time of the siege. The Prince of 
Orange, with the view of rewarding 
the citizens for the bravery they dis¬ 
played on that occasion, ga\ T e them the 
choice of tAVO privileges—either an 
exemption from certain taxes, or a uni¬ 
versity : much to their credit they 
chose the latter. It at one time at¬ 
tained so high a reputation for learning, 
that Leiden earned the appellation of 
the Athens of the West. In the list of 
its distinguished professors and scholars 
it numbers Grotius and Descartes, Sal- 
masius, Scaligcr, and Boerhaave, Avho 
Avas professor of medicine. Evelyn, 
Goldsmith, and many other celebrated 
Englishmen, studied here. Arminius 
and Gomarus, the authors of the rival 
doctrines in religion named after them, 
Avere professors here, and the memor¬ 
able controversy between them com¬ 
menced in the University. Leiden still 
affords excellent opportunities to the 
student of medicine or natural history, 
from the extent and A r alue of its collec¬ 
tions in all departments. The building 


ROUTE 2.—LEIDEN. UNIVERSITY. 





4o 


route 2.—leiden. museum. 


Sect. 1. 


of this University is not distinguished 
for its architecture. The Academical 
Senate Hall, in which degrees are con¬ 
ferred, contains over the mantel-piece a 
likeness of the founder, and its walls are 
covered from top to bottom with more 
than 100 portraits of professors, from 
the time of Scaliger down to the pre¬ 
sent. There are at present about 400 
students, mostly of law. 

The Museum, of Natural History in 
the Rapenburg (open daily from 9 to 
3) is one of the richest and most exten¬ 
sive in Europe, especially in all the 
productions of the Dutch colonies in the 
East, Java, Japan, the Cape, Surinam, 
and West Indies: there are many rare 
specimens not to be found elsewhere, 
very excellently preserved, and the 
whole is admirably arranged. 

The department of Birds is enriched 
by the collection made by M. Tem- 
minck, perhaps the finest in Europe. 

The cabinet of Comparative Anatomy 
is one of the most complete in Europe. 
It contains preparations and skeletons 
of animals from the camelopard down 
to the mouse, and is well arranged, hut 
is interesting only to the student and 
man of science. 

Among the shells are specimens of 
those which produce pearl, and of the 
pearl itself in all its different stages of 
formation; also portions of the wooden 
piles which support the dykes on some 
parts of the Dutch coast, perforated by 
the teredo to such an extent that the 
total ruin of the dykes was at one time 
apprehended. Luckily the danger did 
not spread very far, and the threatened 
scourge disappeared. It is supposed 
that the worm had been brought over 
from the tropical seas in the timber of 
some vessel, but that it had been killed 
in a few seasons by the rigour of a 
northern climate. Means have been 
taken since its appearance to guard 
against the danger in future. The 
dykes arc now protected at their base by 
stones brought from Norway orTournay, 
and the lock-gates are coppered. 

Among the minerals a mass of native 
gold, from the island of Aruba, weigh¬ 
ing 17 lbs., a large crystal of emerald, 
and an unset topaz, of a brownish- 


yellow colour, from Ceylon, the largest 
in Europe, should not be overlooked. 

Among the insects are various spe¬ 
cimens of spectrum, nearly a foot long ; 
also the leaf insect. 

The Egyptian Museum (het Museum 
van Oudheden), in the Breede Straat, 
under the able direction of Dr. C. Lee- 
mans, includes numerous valuable and 
highly interesting monuments, partly 
historical, partly illustrative of the mode 
of life of that ancient people. The 
Papyri, some musical instruments, in¬ 
scriptions, numerous fine stone tablets 
of a very early period, a monolithic 
temple, cut out of a single huge block 
of red granite, many sarcophagi and 
mummies, as well as rich ornaments in 
gold and precious stones, offer abundant 
interest to the learned antiquary and to 
the curious traveller. Of jewellery and 
trinkets, once, doubtless, the delight of 
the ladies of Thebes, and such as were 
borrowed by the children of Israel on 
their departure from Egypt, there is a 
large assortment. A massive armlet 
of solid gold bears the name of a king 
(Thotmes II.), who is supposed to 
have been the oppressor of the Israel¬ 
ites ; if so, it may possibly have been 
seen by Moses himself. The Museum 
also embraces many ancient objects of 
Roman art; an Etruscan statue of a 
boy holding a goose in his arms is 
curious for the style of art. Six monu¬ 
mental fragments, bearing Punic in¬ 
scriptions, and some sculptures, were 
brought from the ruins of Carthage. 
There are, besides, a number of colossal 
Indian statues and other objects here. 
Model of a so-called “ Hun’s bed ” (Dol¬ 
man) from the Province of Dreuthe. 
A heap of broken pottery and other 
objects discovered at Voorburg, near 
the Hague, are curious relics of the 
Roman settlement in this country. 

The Agricultural collections in Leiden 
are very eminent. The Library is very 
extensive, and contains some of the rarest 
oriental MSS. known, collected in the 
East by Golius in the 17 th century. 

The * Japanese Collection, in the Breede 
Straat, under the care of Dr. C. Leemans 
(open daily, 9 to 3 ; fee for each person 
4 guilder) is decidedly the finest and most 







Holland, route 2.—leiden. botanical garden, churches. 41 


extensive in Europe, and was formed 
by Dr. Siebold, a German physician, in 
the course of a residence in Japan of 
8 years, some of which were spent in 
prison. It is interesting not only from 
the number of the articles, but from 
their careful and judicious arrange-' 
ment. It unites everything from the 
most common to the most rare and 
valuable objects relating to the mode 
of life, manners and customs, &c., of 
the Japanese, and furnishes remarkable 
evidence of their advance in civiliza¬ 
tion. It contains implements of hus¬ 
bandry ; whatever is used for ordinary 
domestic purposes; dresses, arms, tools, 
vases—many of them remarkable for 
their workmanship as well as their anti¬ 
quity; models; well-executed sketches; 
coloured drawings ; a library of printed 
books, MSS., and maps; a complete set I 
of musical instniments; idols, and even 
the sacred objects appertaining to their 
worship, an altar, and the furniture of; 
the temple; a series of Japanese coins 
and medals, and a complete set of 
Chinese coins, from the 2nd century 
before orm era. 

The Botanical Garden is famous for 
its early directors—Linnaeus, Boerhaave, 
Clusius, and others—and is still a use- 
fid and instructive school of botany. 
Those who look for fine hothouses and 
pretty gardens will be disappointed. 
The collection of plants is very ex¬ 
tensive, and is preserved in excellent 
order, under the care of Mr. Wette. 
In the conservatories are reared the j 
cinnamon, cinchona (from which come j 
bark and quinine), coffee, cotton, ma¬ 
hogany, &c.,' and a fine collection of 
orchids. 

Obs. out of doors, a Salisburia 50 ft. 
high; a Gleditschia and Catalpa of 
great size; also the trunk of a tree, 
which has been sawn asunder, and 
shows in the very centre an iron tri¬ 
dent or fork buried in the middle of the 
wood. 

The large open space, called de 
Ruine, in the street named Rapenburg , 
now planted with trees, was formerly 
covered with houses, 300 of which were 
demolished in 1807 by the fearful ex¬ 
plosion of a barge laden with gun¬ 
powder, while lying in the canal, in the 


very heart of the town. 150 persons 
were killed. The accident is said to 
have been caused by the bargemen 
frying bacon on the deck. 

In the Church of St. Peter , built 1315, 
of brick, is the monument of Boer¬ 
haave, the physician, with the modest 
inscription, “ Salutifero Boerhaavii 
Genio sacrumsurrounded by others 
in memory of the most distinguished 
worthies of the University, as Dodo- 
naeus, Spanheim, the two Meermans, 
Clusius, Scaliger, Camper, and others. 
Among them is one of a professor J. 
Luzac, killed by the explosion of 1807, 
representing him in bas-relief, in the 
state in which he was found after his 
death. Here is a flamboyant rood- 
screen ; wood, with brass mullions. 

In the Church of St. Pancras , called 
the Hooglandsche Kerk (1280), remark¬ 
able for its long transepts, is a small 
monument to the brave burgomaster 
Vanderwerf, who refused to yield up the 
town to the Spaniards. 

The most frequented Promenade is 
without the walls, close by the side of 
that branch of the Rhine which waters 
and surrounds the town, shaded by a 
double row of trees. In the neighbour¬ 
hood of Leiden are the retreats of several 
distinguished men. In the Chateau of 
Endegeest (on the way to Katwyk) 
Descartes wrote many of his works; 
and the country seat of Boerhaave still 
bears his name. 

Leiden is surrounded by windmills ; 
but they who inquire for that in which 
Rembrandt was born will learn that 
the one in which the painter is said to 
have been born, 1606, has long since 
been removed. It is recorded that his 
father, Herman Gerretz van Rhyn, was 
owner of a corn-mill, situated between 
Layerdorp and Koukerk. Otto Ven- 
nius, master of Rubens, 1556, Jan 
Steen, 1636, Gerard Douw, W. Vande- 
veldc, Mieris, and many other distin¬ 
guished painters, were born here; as 
were the Elzevirs, famous printers, 
known by the editions of the classics bear¬ 
ing their name, and printed in Leiden. 

[About 5g m. from Leiden, on the sea- 










42 


ROUTE 2. —KATWIJK. LtilDEN TO HAARLEM. 


Sect. I. 


shore, is Katwijh , where the expiring 
Rhine is helped to discharge itself into 
the sea by means of a canal with gi¬ 
gantic sluice-gates. The mouth of the 
Rhine had remained closed from the 
year 840, when a violent tempest 
heaped up an impenetrable harrier of 
sand at its embouchure, until 1809, 
when the sluices were formed. As long 
as the river was left to itself, it was lost 
before it reached the sea in the vast 
beds of sand which it there encountered, 
and which either lay below the level of 
the tides, or were so flat that water 
could hardly pass through or drain off 
them. Thus only a small part of the 
Rhine, dribbling into insignificant 
streams, ever found its way out: the 
rest settled into stagnant pools, con¬ 
verting the whole district into a pesti¬ 
lential morass. To remedy this evil, 
and also to give a new outlet to the 
Haarlemmer Meer and to the super¬ 
fluous waters of the district of the 
Rijnland, a wide artificial channel has 
been formed, provided with a triple set 
of sluices; the first having 2 pair, the 
second 4 pair, and the last, nearest the 
sea, 7 pair of gates. "When the tide 
flows the gates are shut to prevent the 
entrance of the sea, which at high water 
rises against them 12 ft., and the level 
of the sea on the outside is equal if not 
above that of the canal within. During 
ebb-tide the flood-gates are opened by 
means of machinery for 5 or 6 hours, 
to allow the accumulated streams to 
pass out, and, in their passage, to clear 
away the sands collected by the waves 
on the outside. It has been calculated 
that the volume of water passing out 
in a second equals 100,000 cubic ft. 
When the sea is much agitated, and the 
wind, blowing towards the shore, pre¬ 
vents the tide retiring to its usual dis¬ 
tance, it is impossible to open the gates 
at all. The dykes which have been 
raised at the entrance of the canal, and 
on the sea-shore, are truly stupendous ; 
they are founded upon piles driven into 
the loose sand, and faced with solid 
masonry of limestone from Tournay. 
These hydraulic works were executed 
during the reign of King Louis Buona¬ 
parte by an engineer named Conrad. 
This exit of the Rhine presents 


nothing very striking to the eye. The 
sight of a set of flood-gates, even though 
they surpass in strength and ingenuity 
any similar construction in Europe, 
will hardly repay a traveller who does 
not take a particular interest in such 
subjects for making a detour to Katwijk. 
Besides, there is hardly sufficient iden¬ 
tity with the Rhine in this diminished 
stream to arouse the imagination. This 
channel, it is true, retains conventionally 
the name of the Rhine; hut the great 
river whose infant stream rises from 
under the glaciers of Mount Adula, and 
which, after collecting from a thousand 
tributaries the melted snows of the 
Alps, forms a barrier between mighty 
nations, and pours its full stream among 
the sunny and vine-clad slopes of the 
Rheingau, and beneath the frowning 
and bristling crags of the Lurley and 
Ehrenbreitstein, now finds its way to 
the ocean by other channels. 

Katwijk is a considerable village of 
4000 Inhab., with a comfortable and 
moderate Hotel (Badhuis) on the Dunes, 
near the sluices. The sea-bathing 
is excellent, and Dutch families de¬ 
siring quiet resort hither in preference 
to Scheveningen.] 

Omnibuses and steamers on the Rhine 
from Leiden to Katwijk several times 
daily. 

Railroad from Leiden to Haarlem 
and Amsterdam :—trains 9 times a-day 
in 1 hr. to Haarlem, 18 m.;—to Rot¬ 
terdam, 23 m., 5 times a-day. 

Warmond St at., rt. see the College 
for Rom. Catholic priests. Travellers 
interested about the draining of the 
Haarlem lake or machinery should stop 
at Warmond, and take a carriage from 
the inn there and go and see the Leegh- 
water-engine (see further on). Those 
who stop at Leiden will do better in 
taking a carriage thence, as the distance 
is not much greater from Leiden than 
from Warmond; and, after having 
seen the Leeghwater, they may either 
return to Leiden or proceed to War¬ 
mond stat. 

About two-thirds of the distance 
from Leiden to Warmond the railway 
crosses the “ Warmonder Leede,” one 






Holland. 


43 


ROUTE 2.- 

of the navigable canals, which at the 
same time act as drains for conveying 
water from the interior of the country 
into the sea by the dykes of Katwijk, 
The centre opening of the bridge here is 
of a novel construction, on the system of 
a sliding-bridge. The nature of the soil 
between Leiden and the “ Warmonder 
Leede ” was such as to render it neces¬ 
sary to form the railway on fascines or 
faggots. The line is partly cut through 
bare sand-hills, the E. extremity of the 
Dunes (§ 12). 

Piet-Gyzenbrug Stat. 

Veenenburg Stat. 

flillegomerbeek Stat. 

Vogelenzang Stat. Here is the steam- 
engine for pumping up the fresh water 
from areservoirof 7acs., among the dimes 
of Haarlem, to supply the city of Amster¬ 
dam, , a work effected by British capital 
in 1855. The conduit passes under nu¬ 
merous canals in flexible or jointed 
pipes, and crosses the great sluices at 
Halfweg. Near Bennebroek, the canal 
of Leiden and the high road are both 
crossed by a trelliswork bridge, 177 ft. 
in length, and at an angle of 30° with 
the canal. 

Linnaeus resided long in the house of 
Hartekamp, near Bennebroek, then in¬ 
habited by the rich English merchant 
Clifford, whose name and collection he 
has immortalised in his work, the 
Hortus Cliffordianus. He also composed 
his ‘ System of Natural History ’ while 
living there. 

On approaching Haarlem the num¬ 
ber of country seats greatly increases. 
About 3 m. before reaching Haarlem, 
a little off the high road, is the ruined 
castle of Teilingen, the residence of the 
unfortunate Jacqueline of Holland. 

61 j m .—Haarlem Stat., N. side of 
town. Here refreshments may be ob¬ 
tained, and baggage left. An hour or two 
will suffice for H aarlem. A street leads 
N. and S. from the station through the 
town, passing the market-place and the 
great Church, to the Houtpoort (gate of 
the wood), \ hr’s. walk. Within the 
park or public garden, called the Hout 
(wood), which is one of the boasts of 
Haarlem, 10 min. walk outside the 
gate, is the Pavilion , a house built by 


-HAARLEM. 

M. Hope, the banker, of Amsterdam, 
sold afterwards to Louis Buonaparte. 
It now belongs to the King, and the 
lower story is converted into a picture- 
gallery to contain the works of modem 
Dutch artists, formerly at the Hague. 

There are some fine pictures in this 
collection, among which may be noted 
the following:— 

Bosboom .—Interior of the church at 
Breda, with the mausoleum of Count 
Engelbert II. of Nassau. Eeckhout. —A 
sick lady visited by her physician ; 
the Marriage of Jacqueline of Bavaria 
and John IV., Duke of Brabant. 
Verpoeken. — Landscape with cattle. 
Kruse man, C. — The Entombment; — 
Departure of Philip II. from the 
Netherlands; Two Italian Peasant 
Women; — Kruseman , J. A. — Elijah 
and the Shunamite woman; Girl sleep¬ 
ing. Maas. —The Good Samaritan. 
Meyer. —Wreck of the William I. on 
the coral rock of Lucipara, 1837. 
Navez .—The meeting of Isaac and 
Rebecca. Noel .—A Vintner caressing a 
young girl. Pieneman. —De Rijk, be¬ 
fore the Governor Requesens; Heroism 
of Hambrock on the Isle of Formosa, 
1663; Battle of Waterloo, the Prince 
of Orange wounded by the side of the 
Duke of Wellington. Vervloet. —The 
Chiueli of St. Peter, Rome. Wal- 
dorp. — Marine views. Paijen. — 
Views in Java. Godercharle. —(Sculp¬ 
ture) Venus taking water with a shell. 
OpenTues., Thurs., Sat.,and Sun., from 
10 till 4. On other days admission may 
be had by strangers on paying a fee 
of 25 cents each. 

Haarlem. Inns: Alouetto (Lceu- 
wrik), Zyl Straat; good—Crown, in 
the Market-place opposite Great Ch.). 
Haarlem is situated on the Spaarn: it 
has 29,500 Inhab., just half of what it 
once contained. The most remarkable 
thing here is the * Organ in the Great 
Church of St. Bavon. “ This has been 
long one of the best established lions of 
the Continent, and must be owned alike 
by the few and by the many to merit 
its high reputation. It was built by 
Christian Muller of Amsterdam, in 
1738, and was for many years assumed 
to be the largest and finest organ in the 






44 


ROUTE 2. —HAARLEM. ORGAN. PRINTING. 


Sect. I. 


world. Recently it has been surpassed 
in scale by our own instruments at 
York and Birmingham, and, it is said, 
by the new organ at Rotterdam, and 
rivalled, if not outdone, as to quality, 
by Mooser’s capital organ at Fribourg 
in Switzerland. The number of pipes 
is 5000, the number of stops 60; it has 
3 manuals (rows of keys for the hands) 
and a pedal-board (for the feet). The 
organist’s fee is 12 guilders (17.), and 1 
gl. for the blower, for his performance 
at private hours (precisely double his 
honorarium in Dr. Burney’s time) : it 
matters not how large the party. At 
this private performance the player 
makes a liberal but tasteless exhibition 
of the solo stops in turn, including that 
which imitates bells and the far-famed 
vox humana stop, and winding up with 
‘ The Storm,’ a piece of clap-trap 
music in the obsolete style of ‘ The 
Battle of Prague.’ When ‘ The 
Storm ’ is over strangers are invited to 
ascend into the organ-loft to examine 
the instrument; they may also pro¬ 
cure a specification of the stops, &c., 
from the organist. Every Tues. and 
Thurs., from 1 to 2, a selection of music 
is played, to which all the world is 
admitted gratuitously. The supre¬ 
macy of the Haarlem organ lies in 
its great and general beauty and 
sweetness of tone ; since, without dis¬ 
paragement of the marvels so dear to 
the valets-de-place, every musician 
must agree with Burney, who remarked 
(a propos of this very instrument) that 
‘ all these enormous machines seem 
loaded with useless stops, or such as 
contribute to augment noise and to 
stiffen the touch.’ The vox humana 
stop is to be heard in as great perfection 
at Gouda, and in more eminent and 
speaking beauty at Fribourg. In any 
case such travellers as are unwilling to 
expend a sovereign for their solitary 
delectation may content themselves with 
the public exhibition, for in this the 
organ and its component stops are fairly 
exhibited without their being put 
through the puppet-show antics dis¬ 
tasteful to every true musician. Pro¬ 
bably a slight fee will procure for those 
desiring it the inspection of the instru¬ 


ment. But neither in public nor in 
private must the amateur expect to be 
regaled by a great player interpreting 
the great music befitting such a great 
organ.”— H. F. C. 

There are 5000 pipes in this, and 
4500 in the York organ. The greatest 
metal pipe at Haarlem is 15 inches in 
diameter, that of York 20 inches; the 
Haarlem organ has only 2 pipes 32 feet 
in length and 8 of 16 feet, while that 
of York has four of 32 feet and 20 of 
16 feet. 

The church itself is very lofty; the 
nave is divided from the choir by a very 
fine rood-screen of brass and wood, orna¬ 
mented with curious grotesque figures 
(opossums with pouches buckled on their 
backs) and foliage. In one of the walls 
a cannon-ball still remains imbedded, 
a relic of the memorable siege by the 
Spaniards in 1572. Plerc are monu¬ 
ments to Conrad, who built the Katwyk 
sluices (d. 1808), to Bilderdijk, the 
Dutch poet and friend of Southey 
(d. 1831), and to L. Coster the printer. 

The Dutch nation, and the inhabit¬ 
ants of Haarlem in particular, are very 
anxious to obtain for their townsman, 
Laurence Janszoon Coster, the credit of 
the invention of Printing, grounding 
his claims upon a dubious local tradi¬ 
tion, which cannot be traced farther 
back than the middle of the 16th cen- 
tury, and upon this passage in the 
Chronicle of Cologne (date 1499) :— 
“ Before the art of printing was in¬ 
vented at Mainz, they had printed in 
Holland, as is proved by the Donatus;” 
but no mention is here made of Coster. 
His statue is placed in the open market¬ 
place, near St. Bavon, fronting the house 
where he lived. In the Stadhuis are pre¬ 
served one or two small folios without 
date or printer’s name, of the kind called 
block books, each page being printed in 
a common ink from a single block, said 
to be of 1428 (twelve years before Gutem- 
berg’s attempt); another, “ Spiegel der 
Menschelijke Behoudenisse (Speculum 
humanae Salvationis),” in double co¬ 
lumn and printing ink, is referred to 
the year 1440. Along with them are 
shown specimens of the original blocks, 
or wooden types, invented and used by 




Holland. 


ROUTE 2. —HAARLEM. TULITS. 


45 


Coster. He may possibly have origin- | 
ated the idea of taking off impressions 
with ink upon paper from solid wooden 
blocks. His attempts were made, it is 
said, as early as 1420-25, and may have 
led the way to the perfection of the 
invention. This seems to be the exact 
extent of his claim to the discovery. 
The merit of forming moveable metal 
types, or single letters cast in a mould, 
capable of being employed in many 
books successively—in fact, the art of 
printing—is now proved, almost beyond 
a doubt, to belong to John Gutemberg, 
of Mayence. The Dutch, however, do 
not abate their claims, and a controver¬ 
sial war is still waged on the subject. 
The arguments in favour of Coster may 
be seen in Ottley, History of Engraving, 
vol. i. Haarlem still possesses a type- 
foundry, celebrated especially for He¬ 
brew and Greek types cast in it. 

The Stadhuis , an edifice older than 
the siege (although 1630-33 is inscribed 
on it), also contains a collection of 
national portraits of the greatest in¬ 
terest and originality, formerly dis¬ 
persed in hospitals and convents in 
Haarlem, — including probably the 
finest works of Frank Hals , a group of 
old women, in the dress of their guild, 
wearing medals; two pictures of 
officers of the Archer Guilds of St. 
George and St. Adrian;— Van de Heist 
archers drinking;— Franz Hals is a 
painter whose high eminence is little 
known in England, but who may here 
be appreciated;— Bray, 4 old women 
in grey seated at a table ;— Heemskirk, 
St. Luke painting the Virgin; and 
G. Cornelisz, portraits of archers, &c. 
Among the collection of antiquities see 
the first efforts of Koster in printing; 
and a Flag carried at the siege 
of 1573. Here also is a Torture 
Chamber , with the rack and other in¬ 
struments. Admission 10 to 3; fee 
25 cents. 

Haarlem is famous for its * hya¬ 
cinths, tulips, and other flowers, which 
grow not only in gardens, but in open 
fields of many hundred acres, in the 
utmost luxuriance and beauty, in a soil 
particularly congenial to them, viz. an 
artificial combination of light sand with 
rotted eow-dung; while water lies so 


near the surface that their roots readily 
find nourishment during the time of 
growth, the dry season. The hya¬ 
cinths are at their best during the first 
half, the tulips during the second half 
of April: then the beds are in their 
greatest beauty; but it is at other 
seasons worth while to visit one of the 
numerous Nursery Gardens (Blocmcn 
Tuin) in the S. outskirts of the town, 
where there is at all times something to 
be seen, and where roots and seeds may 
be purchased. Mynherr Krelage's is the 
best and largest in Holland, situated 
between the pavilion and the town. 
The gardens of a great part of Europe 
are supplied from Haarlem; but the 
trade in tulips is not carried on as in the 
days of the Tulipornania, and 100 florins 
is now a very large sum for a root. 

“ The enormous prices that were 
actually given for real tulip bulbs, of 
particular kinds, formed but a small 
fraction of the extent to which the 
mercantile transactions in this gaudy 
flower were carried. Beckman states on 
Dutch authorities that 400 perits in 
weight (something less than a grain) of 
the bulb of a tulip named Admiral Leif- 
ken, cost 4400 fl.; and 200 of another, 
named Semper Augustus, 2000 fl. Of 
this last, he tells us, it once happened 
there were only two roots to be had, 
the one at Amsterdam, the other at 
Haarlem; and that for one of these 
were offered 4600 fl., a new carriage, 
two grey horses, and a complete set of 
harness; and that another person offered 
12 acres of land.- The truth is, that 
these tulip-roots were never bought or 
sold, but they became the medium of a 
systematised species of gambling. The 
bulbs, and their divisions into perits, 
became like the different stocks in our 
public funds, and were bought and sold 
at different prices from day to day, the 
parties settling their account at fixed 
periods; the innocent tulips all the 
while never once appearing in the 
transactions. ‘ Before the tulip season 
was over,’ says Beckman, 1 more roots 
were sold and purchased, bespoke aud 
promised to be delivered, than in all 
probability were to be found in the 
gardens of Holland; and when Semper 
Augustus was not to be had anywhere, 




40 


ROUTE 2. —HAARLEM. MUSEUMS. SIEGE. 


Sect. I. 


which happened twice, no species per¬ 
haps was oftener purchased and sold.’ 
This kind of sheer gambling reached at 
length to such a height, that the go¬ 
vernment found it necessary to inter¬ 
fere and put a stop to it.”— Family 
Tour in South Holland. 

The Teylerian Museum , an institution 
for the promotion of learning, founded 
by an opulent merchant, after whom it 
is named, contains a few good paintings 
of modern Dutch artists, a remarkable 
collection of prints , especially rich in 
works of A. Ostade; and a collection of 
coins and fossils : among the latter are 
one or two specimens described by 
Cuvier, including the jaw of a fossil 
saurian, brought from the celebrated 
quarries at Maestricht, 1766, and a la¬ 
boratory well stored with philosophical 
instruments. 

The Haarlem Society possesses a 
Museum of Natural History. 

Several Cotton Factories were esta¬ 
blished in this neighbourhood, under 
the patronage of William I.: they have 
increased both in number and the quan¬ 
tity of goods they manufacture since the 
separation of Holland from Belgium. 

There are extensive Bleacheries of 
linen here: they owe their reputation 
to some peculiar property supposed to 
exist in the water. Before the dis¬ 
covery of bleaching by chlorine, the 
fine linens made in Silesia, as well as 
those of Friesland, were sent hither 
to be bleached; and being then ex¬ 
ported direct to England, were named 
after the country from whence they were 
embarked, not that in which they were 
made. Such fabrics are still known in 
commerce by the name of Holland. 

Haarlem is the birthplace of the 
painters Wynants, Ostade, Wouver- 
mans, Berghem, and Ruisdael. 

In the environs of Haarlem are nu¬ 
merous tasteful villas of Amsterdam 
capitalists and some agreeable Walks , 
especially those constructed on the site 
of the ancient Ramparts, which no one 
should leave unseen. 

3m. N.W. of Haarlem is Bloemcndaal 
(Inn, Zomcrzorg) a village of country- 
seats, at the hack of the Dunes (§ 12), 
which enjoy so mild a climate that 
small vineyards are planted upon 


them. The range of sand-hills, 3 m. 
wide, is one vast rabbit-warren. The 
highest eminence is the Brederodsche 
Berg, or Blue Stairs, 20 min. Avalk 
from the Zomerzorg—behind the great 
Lunatic Asylum. The view from it is 
j very peculiar, extending over Haar- 
i lem, the Wyker Meer, the Y, Amster- 
j dam, and the windmills of Saardam. 

| At the foot of this hill lie the ruins 
! of the Castle of Brederode , a brick build¬ 
ing— seat of the Brederodes, one of 
whom was the leader in the struggle 
which freed Holland from the yoke of 
Spain.* 

The citizens of Haarlem even sur¬ 
passed their neighbours of Leiden in 
their brave resistance to the Spaniards. 
The siege of Haarlem preceded that of 
Leiden; and as the distinguished con¬ 
duct of its defenders served as an ex¬ 
ample of patriotism to their fellow- 
countrymen, so the bloody tragedy 
which followed it, and the sacrilegious 
breach of faith on the part of the con¬ 
querors, lighted up a spirit of resist¬ 
ance and abhorrence of the Spaniards, 
which led the way to a long series of 
martial exploits performed by the 
Dutch in the sieges of Leiden and 
Alkmaar, and occasioned in a few short 
years the total expulsion of their op¬ 
pressors from Holland. Haarlem was 
by no means strongly fortified; indeed, 
its external defences were weak in the 
eyes of an engineer, and even its re¬ 
sources within were hut small. The 
garrison was limited to 4000 soldiers, 
among whom were some Scotch; but 
every citizen became a soldier for the 
occasion; nay, not men alone, but even 
women, bore arms ; and a body of 300, 
under the guidance of the heroine 
Kenan Hasselaer, enrolled themselves 
in a company, and did duty with 
shouldered pike and musket. Though 
the Spaniards had made formidable 
breaches in the walls near the gates of 
the Cross and of St. John, two assaults 
on them had failed; and, after seven 
months of fruitless hostilities and a 
loss of 10,000 men, they were com¬ 
pelled to turn the siege into a blockade. 
In order to maintain it with the utmost 
strictness, and to cut off all approach 
from the water, a fleet of war-boats 





Holland . route 2.—haarlem. 

was introduced upon the Lake of 
Haarlem. Several attempts on the 
part of their friends to throw in sup¬ 
plies totally failed; the garrison, having 
consumed everything within the walls 
down to the grass which grew between 
the stones of the streets, and seeing no 
alternative hut to die of starvation, de¬ 
termined to place the women and chil¬ 
dren in their centre, and cut their way 
through the enemy’s camp. The Spa¬ 
niards, however, having heard of this, 
and fearing the effects of their despair, 
sent a flag of truce, and offered terms 
of pardon and amnesty, on condition of 
surrender of the town and 57 of the 
chief inhabitants. A condition so hard 
would not have been granted, had not 
these 57 devoted citizens voluntarily 
yielded themselves up. When the 
Spaniards entered, they found the gar¬ 
rison of 4000 reduced to 1800. Three 
days passed, and the promise given by 
the Spaniards was kept, and the arms 
of the townspeople were surrendered; 
hut when all suspicion of treachery was 
lulled, the bloodhounds of the cruel Alva, 
and his son Ferdinand of Toledo, were 
let loose on the unsuspecting and now 
unarmed citizens. Ripperda, the go¬ 
vernor, and the 57 were first sacrificed; 
and afterwards four executioners were 
called in and kept constantly at work, 
until 2000 persons, including the Pro¬ 
testant ministers, the soldiers of the 
garrison, and many citizens, had been 
inh um anly butchered in cold blood. 
Towards the conclusion of the tragedy 
the executioners became so exhausted, 
that the remaining victims were tied 
two and two, and thrown into the Lake 
of Haarlem. The siege lasted from 
December, 1572, to July, 1573. Four 
years after the town again fell into the 
hands of the Dutch. 

The excursion through North Holland 
(Rte. 4) commences here; by following it 
the traveller may see the most interest¬ 
ing and primitive part of the country, 
and reach Amsterdam in 2 or 3 days. 

Railway to Alkmaar and Helder hy 
Beverwijk (Rte. 4). 

Railroad, Haarlem to Amsterdam, 
12 m. Trains 10 times a-day, in 30 
min. Omnibuses convey passengers 
to and from the station at Haarlem 


AirROACH TO AMSTERDAM. 47 

for 15 c. == 3d., and at Amsterdam for 
20 c. = 4 d. 

The railway bridge over the Spaarne, 
at Haarlem, is of iron, with six open¬ 
ings ; the two middle openings have a 
swing bridge of a very simple and solid 
construction, which opens and shuts 
both openings at the same time, to ren¬ 
der the passage of vessels as rapid as 
possible, as between 14 and 15 thousand 
pass through annually. The principal 
beams are each 75| ft. long, and were 
cast in a single piece: the whole bridge 
weighs upwards of 110 tons, and the 
machinery for moving it is so perfect, 
that one man turns it easily in 2 
min. The bridge is only shut dur¬ 
ing the passage of the train: a self¬ 
acting signal is attached to it. The 
line throughout, between Haarlem and 
Amsterdam, is formed on fascines. In 
marshy spots all the earthworks are 
laid on beds of fascines more or less 
extensive according to the nature of 
the ground. Where the railway tra¬ 
verses pools of water, the fascines alter¬ 
nate with beds of rubble, and are held 
together by stakes and wattles, until 
the weight of the earth laid upon them 
becomes settled and the mass consoli¬ 
dated. The earthwork is chiefly com¬ 
posed of sand from the sea-beach, and 
is covered with turf. 

The road to Amsterdam leads out of 
a venerable gateway, a relic of the 
ancient fortifications of the town, 
which probably withstood the attacks 
of the Spaniards during the memorable 
siege. 

Outside of the gates the traveller has 
before him a singularly monotonous 
prospect. The high road to Amster¬ 
dam runs as straight as an arrow as 
far as the eye can reach; on one side 
of it is the equally straight canal, and 
nearly parallel with it the Railroad; 
rt. a circular fort, erected 1860, Fort an 
de Lieds. The causeway, elevated above 
the surrounding country, is carried 
along the summit of a dyke, originally 
constructed of prodigious strength, to 
restrain the waters of the Haarlem 
Lake, now converted into a Polder or 
sunk meadow, and scattered over with 
neat houses built since the drainage 



48 


ROUTE 2.— LAKE OF HAARLEM. 


Sect. I. 


was effected, from among- which rise 
the tall chimneys of several pumping- 
engines. 

Since the 15th cent, a body of water 
called the Lake of Haarlem spread itself 
over, and, in fact, swallowed up, a large 
portion of the districts known as the 
Rijn and Amstel-land. Previous to 
that time the lake can scarcely he said 
to have existed, except that a spot in 
the middle of it, and deep below the 
surface, was then occupied by a marsh 
of considerable extent. Several villages, 
originally at a distance from the water, 
were surrounded by it, and compelled to 
assume a sort of amphibious existence, 
half in and half out of the water. The 
lake at length expanded over an area 
of ground 11 leagues in circumference. 
Nothing hut the strength and perfection 
of the dykes prevented the bordering 
districts, already partly below the level 
of the waters, from being swallowed up 
in ruin. The annual expense of keeping 
them in repair was enormous. 

The States General of Holland at 
length sanctioned a plan for converting 
the bed of the lake into arable and pasture 
land. Operations were commenced in 
the spring of 1840, by forming a water¬ 
tight double rampart or dyke and ring- 
canal round the lake, into which the 
water was pumped up, and discharged 
through the Katwijk, the Spaarne, and 
the sluices at Ilalfweg, into the sea. 

Three enormous pumping engines 
have been erected, one near AVarmond, 
another opposite the old entrance of 
the Spaarne into the lake, and the third 
to the S.E. of Halfweg, and between it 
and Slooten. The average depth of the 
lake was 13 ft. below the general level 
of the surface water of the canal and 
water-courses conducting to the sea- 
sluices. The area was 45,230 acres; the 
estimated contents to be pumped out 
about 800 or 1000 million tons. 

At the end of 4 years’ pumping, in¬ 
terrupted at times by the difficulty of 
expelling the water through the canal 
into the sea whenever the wind blew 
strongly from the N. and N.AY., the 
lake-bed was laid entirely dry in 1853— 
as dry as any land in South Holland 
can be; nearly the whole of which 
has been sold at prices varying from 


1 51. to 21/. per acre. No bones of 
men or animals, nor any objects of i 
human workmanship, were found in 
the bed. 

The Haarlem lake is now converted 
into a Polder, and its basin is covered 
with rich crops—meadow and grass— 
and occupied by numerous hamlets and ; 
farm-steadings. Its population amounts 
to 7250. It maintains 2000 horses, 5786 
horned cattle, 9000 sheep and pigs. It 
is kept dry by the aid of three monster 
steam-engines, at a cost not much ex- I 
ceeding 2s. an acre per ann. They ! 
maintain the surface of the water in the : 
drains at 18 in. below the general level 1 
of the bottom. The district then laid i 
bare, however, is subject, especially in I 
summer, to low fever, owing to the I 
exhalations from the soil, which has 1 
lessened the value of the land in the j 
market. 

The engine called the Leeghwater 1 
(in honour of a Dutch engineer, : 
who first proposed to drain the lake | 
in 1623), which is near Warmond, \ 
was the first erected. It lifts 11 
pumps, each of 63-in. diameter; each 1 
pump is furnished with a cast-iron ba¬ 
lance beam, and, except 3, the balance * 
beams are placed opposite to each other 
in pairs, with a lift of 13 ft. The I 
engine easily worked the 11 pumps ij 
simultaneously, the net load of water l 
lifted being 81-7 tons, and the dis¬ 
charge 63 tons per stroke. The other i 
two engines, called the -Cruquius and 
A r an Lynden, after two celebrated men 
who at various periods interested them¬ 
selves in promoting the drainage of the 
lake, have about 100 h.p. more than 
the Leeghwater. The engines were 1 
constructed at Ilayle Foundrvin Corn¬ 
wall.* 

A visit to that engine, which stands 
where the Spaarne entered the Haarlem ' 
lake, may be easily made by getting a ■ 
boat at Haarlem and rowing up the 
river. Those who object to a boat 
may walk along the path on the eastern j 
hank of the river, at the end of which 
is a ferry over to the dyke on which j 
the engine stands. 

The approach to Amsterdam, over ■ 
causeways traversing a broad expanse : 
of water, resembles that which leads to 











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Holland. 


ROUTE 2. —AMSTERDAM. 


Mexico. Another coincidence is that 
the Spaniards were engaged in a nearly 
similar contest in both places. During 
the siege of Haarlem there were fre¬ 
quent combats of an almost amphibious 
character, partly in boats, partly on the 
causeways, between the Dutch and the 
Spaniards, exactly like those which 
took place between Cortez and the 
Mexicans. The Dutch had a second 
time occasion to resort to the like ex¬ 
pedient of Hooding this part of the 
country, to resist the armies of Louis 
XIV.; and, more recently, the same 
thing was done in the war of the 
French revolution, Jan. 1795. 

At Halfweg — half - way between 
Haarlem and Amsterdam—there is a 
portage in the canal, here interrupted 
by the enormous sluices which pre¬ 
vious to the drainage separated the 
waters of the IJ from those of the 
Haarlem Lake. The effect of open¬ 
ing them, and allowing the waters 
of the IJ to enter the Haarlem Mecr, 
would have been to submerge a great 
part of the province of Holland to a 
distance of 30 m., with an inundation 
covering not only the meadows, but 
even the dykes themselves. “ The height 
of the water is regulated by means 
of sluices and gauge-posts, marked with 
very minute divisions; and the greatest 
attention is paid to the state of the 
waters at this particular spot: it is one 
of the principal stations of the Water- 
staat (§ 9). The safety of Amsterdam 
and the surrounding country from in- 
undations depended upon the manage¬ 
ment of these sluices.” 

The railroad passes near the sluices, 
close to an old chateau called Zwanen- 
burg; it then makes a bend, after which 
it continues in a straight line on to 
Amsterdam. 

The most conspicuous objects, on ap¬ 
proaching the town from the land side, 
are the windmills, one of which is 
perched on each of the 26 bastions, 
now no longer of use as fortifications; 
they serve to grind the flour which 
supplies the town. The fosse surround¬ 
ing the town is 80 ft. wide. 

[n. g.] 


49 

75 m. Amsterdam Terminus is near 
the harbour, outside "Willems-Poort, a 
long way from the centre of the town. 
Omnibuses convey passengers for 4 sti¬ 
vers as far as the Dam, or Paleis Plein. 
It is best to take a vigilante for 1 
guilder. 

Amsterdam. — Inns : New Amstel 
Hotel, a large building well managed, 
but a long way from the centre of the 
town, close to the Utrecht Ply. Stat.: 
—H. des Pays-Bas; *Brack’s Oude 
Doelen—both good, and nearly of 
equal merit; both in Doelen Straat; 
Keizerskroon, Kalverstraat. The Old 
Bible, a good and quiet house frequented 
by English and Americans; Warmoes 
Straat—H. du Vieux Comte, in the 
Kalver Straat, a quiet house. Good 
drinking-water, from Haarlem, is now 
laid on in all the best hotels, from the 
English company’s waterworks. 

A walk or drive through Amsterdam , to 
include the most remarkable objects:— 
The Palace and view from the tower; 
Picture Gallery at the Trippenhuis; 
pictures of Mr. Hoop and Mr. Six ; the 
Exchange at 1 o’clock: a walk along 
the Quays and Dykes, to view the 
shipping, harbour, and docks; the 
Zoological Garden. The Exhibition 
building opposite the Amstel Hotel. 

English Episcopal Church on the Groene 
Burgwal; service at 10^ a.m. A 
Scotch Presbyterian Church has long 
been established here, service at 10. 

Physician , Dr. Davids, Y. 237, Hcei’en 
Gracht, is an English physician. 

Steamboats to Zaandam nearly every 
hour ; Alkmaar 6 times a day; Helder 
twice (Pte. 3). To Harlingen and 
Enkhuizen daily; Kampen once 
(Pte. 7). 

A steam ferry - boat is constantly 
plying to Buiksloot and the mouth of 
the Texel canal. Pte. 3. 

The Post Office is on the Voor Burg¬ 
wal, behind the palace. 


D 




50 


ROUTE 2.—AMSTERDAM. 


Sect. I. 


Consuls from Great Britain and the 
U. S. 

Cafes. — Poolsche Koffihuis, Cafe 
Franqais, and Niow6 Ivoffyhaus, in 
the Ivalvcr Straat. 

The finest shops are in the Kalver 
Straat, which is also the most frequented 
thoroughfare ; in the Nieuwedijk—both 
leading out of the square in which the 
Palace is situated; and in the Warmoes 
Straat. 

The Lees Museum, or Subscription 
Reading-room , is on the Kokin. The 
principal English, French and German 
papers and periodicals are found here. 
Strangers can be introduced by mem¬ 
bers. 

Omnibuses ply between the Dam, or 
Palace-plain, and the railway stations. 
Fare, 20 cents. 

Amsterdam, the principal city of Hol¬ 
land, is situated at the confluence of the 
river Amstel with the arm of the Zuider 
Zee called the IJ (pronounced Eye), 
which in front of Amsterdam is from 8 
to 9 fathoms in depth, and forms a well- 
sheltered harbour. It has 261,500 Inhab., 
of whom 35,000 are Jews. Its ground- 
plan has somewhat the shape of a 
half-bent bow; the straight line, repre¬ 
senting the string, rests on the IJ, and 
the curved line forms its boundary on the 
land side. Its walls are surrounded by 
a semicircular canal or wide fosse, and 
within the city are 4 other great canals, 
all running in curves, parallel with the 
outer one. They are called Prinsen 
Gracht, Keizers Gracht, Heeren Gracht, 
and Singel, the last being the inner¬ 
most. The Keizers Gracht is 140 ft. 
wide. They are lined with handsome 
houses; each of the first 3 is at least 2 
m. long, and in their buildings as well 
as dimensions may bear comparison 
with the finest streets in Europe. It 
is 12 m. in circumference. The 70 small 
canals which intersect the town in all 
directions divide it into 90 islands, and 
are traversed by 250 bridges. The repair 
of bridges, cleansing and clearing canals, 
and repairing dykes, in Amsterdam 
alone, amounts to several thousand 


guilders daily. This will be better un¬ 
derstood when it is known that, were it 
not for the most skilful management of 
sluices and dykes, the city of Amster¬ 
dam might be submerged at any mo¬ 
ment. All things considered, it is one 
of the most wonderful cities in Eu¬ 
rope. In the strange intermixture of 
land and water it may be compared to 
Venice; and the splendour of some of 
its buildings, though not equalling 
that of the Sea Cybele, may be said 
to approximate to it, but the houses 
are almost all of brick, and the canals 
differ from those of Venice in being 
lined with quays. 

The whole city, its houses, canals, 
and sluices, are founded upon piles; 
which gave occasion to Erasmus to say 
that he had reached a city whose in¬ 
habitants, like crows, lived on the tops 
of trees. The upper stratum is literally 
nothing more than bog and loose sand; 
and until the piles are driven through 
this into the firm soil below, no struc¬ 
ture can be raised with a chance 
of stability. In 1822 the enormous 
com warehouses, originally built for 
the Dutch East India Company, ac¬ 
tually sank down into the mud, from 
the piles having given way. They 
contained at the time more than 70,000 
cwt. of com: a weight which the foun¬ 
dation beneath was incapable of sup¬ 
porting. A kind of hackney-coach 
cnWc&Sleepkoets, still seen, though rarely 
in Amsterdam, consists of the body of 
a coach or fly, mounted upon a sledge 
drawn by one horse, while the driver, 
walking beside him, holds in one hand 
a bit of cloth or rag dipped in oil 
and fastened to the end of a string; 
this he contrives to drop, at inter¬ 
vals, under the runners of the sledge 
to diminish the friction. Heavy burdens 
are almost entirely transported along the 
canals, and from thence to the ware¬ 
houses on similar sledges. 

The havens and canals are shallow, 
being about 8 ft. deep at ordinary water. 
They are, therefore, fit for the Rhine 
vessels and Dutch coasters, but do not 
admit vessels for foreign trade. These 
lie along the booms and in front of the 
town, and the goods are transferred by 
means of the numerous canals of the 















Holland. 


ROUTE 2. -AMSTERDAM. PALACE. 


51 


city. There is a good deal of mud 
deposited at the bottom of the canals, 
which when disturbed by the barges 
produces a most noisome effluvium in 
hot weather, when the water is said to 
“grow.” Machines are constantly at 
work to clear out the mud, which is 
sent to distant parts as manure. Mills 
have also been employed to give an 
artificial motion to the waters, and 
prevent their becoming stagnant; but 
the same object is now attained by more 
simple means. To effect a circulation 
in the canals is most essential to the 
health of the inhabitants. The Amstel 
at its entrance into the city is 11 in. 
below the mean level of the German 
Ocean, the lowest tide is only 1^ ft. 
lower than the Amstel. It is therefore 
evident that the canals can be emptied, 
and that partially, only at low water. 
The Damrak is the point of discharge. 
At high water the sluices which admit 
the Amstel into the town are closed for 
a short time, and the sea-water allowed 
then to circulate through the town, 
until it is again expelled by the river. 

The enormous dams thrown up since 
1851 in front of the town, for a great 
distance along the side towards the IJ, 
resist the influx of the sea into the 
mouths of the canals, and are provided 
with flood-gates of the strongest con¬ 
struction, to withstand the pressure of 
high tides. They also form 2 great 
basins, Ooster- and Wester-Dock, capa¬ 
ble of receiving 1000 vessels. 

A great *Sea Canal from Amsterdam 
direct to the North Sea through the 
isthmus of N. Holland is being con¬ 
structed. The \j will be drained on 
both sides of the canal, which will be 
only 15 m. in length, available at all 
tides for the largest ships, and forming 
a harbour of refuge at its mouth, &c., 
at the same time stopping out the 
Zuider Zee. (See Bte. 4, Velzen.) 
The huge Dam and sluices, founded in 
a lake of mud on 10,000 piles, to keep 
out the Zuider Zee, may be seen in a 
walk to Paddenhoek, m., passing the 
Docks on the way. 

The Palace (Het Paleis), on the Dam, 
formerly Th,e Stadhuis, is a vast and im¬ 
posing edifice of stone, standing upon 
13,659 piles driven 70 ft. deep into the 


ground. The architect was Van Campen; 
the first stone was laid 1648, and the 
building finished 1655. It was originally 
occupied by the magistracy, for town 
councils, judicial tribunals, and the Idee. 
During the reign of Louis Buonaparte 
it became his palace, and the late King 
resided in it whenever he visited 
Amsterdam. The main entrance is be¬ 
hind. The treasures of the once cele¬ 
brated bank of Amsterdam, which used 
to regulate the exchanges of Europe, 
were kept in the vaults below the 
building, which are still used for the 
same purpose by the bank of the Nether¬ 
lands. It is chiefly remarkable for 
one grand Hall, occupying the centre 
of the building, lined with white Italian 
marble, 120 ft. long and 57 ft. wide, 
and nearly 100 ft. high. The sculp¬ 
tured bas-reliefs which adorn the build¬ 
ing are by Arthur Qnellin } and deserve 
notice as works of art, those especially 
which adorn the two pediments; many 
of those in the interior are appropriate 
and well executed: thus over the door 
of the room which was the secretary’s 
is a dog watching his dead master, and 
a figure of Silence with her finger on 
her lips, as emblems of fidelity and 
secrecy. The Bankrupt Court contains 
a group representing Daedalus and 
Icarus—in allusion to rash speculations 
and their ruinous consequences. In the 
Audience Chamber is a large picture, by 
Wappers , of Yan Speyk blowing up his 
ship. It is worth while to see the View 
from the tower on the summit of the 
building. This is the best place to 
obtain a tolerably correct idea of this 
wonderful city, with its broad canals, 
avenues of green trees running through 
the heart of the town, houses with 
forked chimneys and projecting gables, 
many of them bowing forward or lean¬ 
ing backwards, from subsidence in their 
foundations. These form the fore¬ 
ground of the picture. The horizon 
extends on the N. side over the Zuider 
Zee, over the IJ, to the numerous wind¬ 
mills and red roofs of Zaandam, the 
N. Holland canal and the towers of 
Alkmaar; S. over the site of the Haar¬ 
lem Meer, now ploughed by the share 
and no longer by the keel; S.E. appear 
the towers of Utrecht and Amersfort; 

D 2 



52 


ROUTE 2. —AMSTERDAM. CHURCHES. 


Sect. I. 


and \V. the spire of Haarlem, with the 
straight canal and railway pointing 
towards it. 

In the middle of the Dam rises the 
Cross of Metal, a national monument to 
the Dutch soldiers who fell in the cam¬ 
paign of 1830-31. 

The present Stadhuis, or Town Hall, 
on the Achter Burgwal (formerly the 
Admiralty), contains good pictures— 
portraits of burgomasters and citizens 
of Amsterdam, by Van der Heist, Frans 
Hals , Govert Flinch , &c.; also a capital 
Lingelbach , a view of the palace while 
building; and a view of it finished by 
Van der Ulft. 

The Hew Exchange , built 1845, is a 
handsome edifice in front of the palace: 
its construction was a work of great 
difficulty on account of the looseness of 
the soil, a mere turbary or bog, which 
caused the foundations to give way. 
3 o’clock is the daily hour of high change. 
Amsterdam has lost ground in commerce 
since the introduction of free trade and 
steam navigation ; her merchants have 
sunk into a stockjobbing aristocracy, 
investing enormous capital in state 
loans. 

The Palais des Beaux Arts , near the 
Amstel, was erected, in imitation of our 
Exhibition building in Hyde Park, of 
glass and iron. It is surrounded by a 
garden. 

The Churches of Amsterdam, stripped 
of almost every decoration at the 
Reformation, are in themselves rather 
barren of interest, forming a complete 
contrast to the richly ornamented struc¬ 
tures of Belgium. 

The Oude Kerb (Old Church), in the 
Warmoes Straat, has 3 fine windows of 
painted glass, executed between 1549 
and 1648; the tombs of several Dutch 
admirals; a list of the persons killed 
in Amsterdam by the Anabaptists, 1535; 
and a fine set of chimes. The Organ is 
esteemed by many not inferior, as to 
tone, to that of Haarlem. “It is as 
gorgeously framed as if it had been con¬ 
trived for some Jesuits’ church. The 
gallery in which it stands is richly in¬ 
laid with porphyry and white marble: 
its case is florid, with the most heavy 
and profuse carving and gilding. The 
tones are rich, firm, and brilliant. It 


has 68 stops, 3 rows of keys, and a full 
complement of pedals. In short, it is 
a first-rate instrument, finished about 
1760, by Batti, of Utrecht, in comple¬ 
tion of an organ begun in 1736.”— 
H. F. C. 

The Nieuwe Kerb (so called, though 
built in 1408), on the Damrak, close to 
the palace, is one of the finest churches 
in Holland: it has a fine open screen of 
brass. It contains, among many public 
monuments, those of Admiral de Ruiter, 
the commander who sailed up the Med¬ 
way and burnt the English fleet at 
Chatham, who at different times con¬ 
tended with the English admirals Blake, 
Monk, and Prince Rupert, and who 
commanded the Dutch at the battle of 
Solebay. He is styled, in his somewhat 
pompous epitaph, “ immensi tremor 
Oceani.” There are also monuments to 
Captain Bentinck, killed in the battle 
of Doggerbank, 1781, to the poet Yon- 
del, and to Van Speyk, who blew up 
himself and his ship, in the Scheldt, 
1831, rather than yield to the Belgians. 
(Rte. 18.) The splendidly carved pul¬ 
pit, with its huge sounding-board, was 
executed by Albert Yincken Brinck, in 
1649. 

The churches in Holland are, per¬ 
haps, more numerously and regularly 
attended than even in England. The 
sermons to be preached on Sunday are 
announced beforehand in placards, like 
playbills with us. The congregation 
sit during the sermon with their hats 
on or off, indifferently, just as the mem¬ 
bers in our II. of Commons. In most 
of the churches service is performed 3 
or 4 times. The form of religion is 
chiefly Dutch Presbyterian, though 
there are many Lutherans; the Go¬ 
vernment aids both, as well as the 
Scotch Presbyterian. 

The Jews, who form a large part 
of the population, reside in a particular 
quarter, they have 4 Synagogues: the 
most splendid is that of the Portuguese, 
in the Muiderstraat, which is worth 
visiting. The streets leading to it 
seem but a repetition of Monmouth 9 
Street, St. Giles’s—the same dirt and 
filthy smells, the same old clothes. 
The Jews of Amsterdam are, from their 
wealth, a very influential body. Ba- 



Holland. 


53 


ROUTE 2.—AMSTERDAM. PICTURES. 


ruch Spinosa, the metaphysician, was 
a native of Amsterdam, and son of a 
Portuguese Jew (1632). 

The * Museum or Picture* Gallery — 
placed in the Trippenhuis (a name de¬ 
rived from its former owner), in the 
Klovenicrsburgwal—is open to the pub¬ 
lic from 10 to 3 daily: on Saturday, 
when it is not open to the public, it is 
usual to give a guilder to the keeper 
for admission for a party. Many of the 
pictures are attached to shutters, which 
admit of being drawn forward upon 
hinges in order that they may be seen 
under the most favourable lights. It is 
completely a National Gallery, being- 
composed almost entirely of works of 
the Dutch school, of which it contains 
many chefs-d’ceuvre. 

One of the most noteworthy pictures 
is “The Banquet of the Archers” 
by Van der Heist , representing the 
City Guard of Amsterdam met to 
celebrate the Treaty of Munster, 
1648; an event which, as it first 
confirmed the independence of the 
Dutch nation, was justly considered 
a subject worthy the pencil of the 
artist. The figures, 25 in number, are 
portraits; the names are inscribed above, 
hut there are no persons in any way 
distinguished among them. One of 
them represents the lieutenant of the 
company, and his dress is the uniform 
of the Dutch schuttcrij (militia) of that 
period. “ This is, perhaps, the first 
picture of portraits in the world, com¬ 
prehending more of those qualities 
which make a perfect portrait than any 
other I have ever seen. They are cor- 
rectly drawn, both head and figure, and 
well coloured, and have a great variety 
of action, characters, and countenances; 
and those so lively and truly expressing 
what they are about, that the spectator 
has nothing to wish for. Of this pic¬ 
ture I had heard great commendations; 
hut it as far exceeded my expectation 
as that of Rembrand, the Night Watch, 
fell below it.” P. The preference of 
Sir Joshua hardly agrees with the 
estimate of the best Art critics of the 
present day, who esteem “the Night 
Watch” more.—Portraits of 3 mem¬ 


bers of the Archers’ Guild, seated at a 
table, holding the prizes for the best 
shots, a sceptre, a goblet, and a chain; 
a fourth man, said to be the painter, 
a woman, and a dog. In the back¬ 
ground 3 young marksmen. “ An 
admirable picture.” P. Portrait of 
Mary, daughter of Charles I., wife of 
William II., P. of Orange, and mother 
of William III. of England. Van der 
Ilelst is a scarce master, and his works 
are nowhere to be found in equal per¬ 
fection with those at Amsterdam. 

Bachhuysen. —The Pensionary John 
de Witt embarking on board of the 
Fleet in 1665. A view of Amsterdam. 
Berghem. — Several fine Landscapes; 
one particularly, called an Italian Land¬ 
scape. Ferdinand Bol. —Portrait of Ad¬ 
miral de Iluiter. 

Gaspar Crayer. —The Adoration of the 
Shepherds. A Descent from the Cross. 
Cuyp and Both. —Some admirable land¬ 
scapes. 

GerardDouw. —The Evening School, a 
painting in which the effect of candle¬ 
light is wonderfully portrayed: no less 
than 5 different lights are introduced 
into the picture, and variously thrown 
upon the 12 figures which compose it. 
A Hermit in a Cave before a Crucifix 
surprisingly finished. 

Hondekoeter. — Several pictures of 
fowls, game, rare birds, &c., unequalled 
in their class probably in the world. 
One of the most remarkable is that 
known as “ the Floating Feather,” in 
which a Pelican is introduced with 
Ducks swimming. Van Huy sum. — 
Fruit and Flower pieces. 

Carl du Jardin. — Portraits of the 5 
Governors of the Spinhouse at Amster¬ 
dam. “ They are all dressed in black; 
and, being upon a light background, 
have a wonderful relief. The heads 
are executed with a most careful and 
masterly touch, and the repose and har¬ 
mony of colouring spread over the whole 
picture are admirable.” P. The por¬ 
traits of this artist are rare, as ho is 
generally looked upon as a painter of 
landscapes, sheep, and small figures. 
There are 3 other good pictures by him, 
and no other collection probably pos- 


* A new Museum is in progress. 






54 


ROUTE 2. —AMSTERDAM. PICTURES. 


Sect. I. 


sesses works of his showing equal ex¬ 
cellence. 

Lievens. —Portrait of Vondel the poet. 

Miereveld. —Portraits of William I. 
and Maurice, Princes of Orange. 

Ostade , A. —The Painter in his Study. 
Ostade , J. —A laughing Peasant with a 
jug in his hand. 

Paul Potter. —A Landscape with Cat¬ 
tle, and a Woman suckling a Child. 
Orpheus charming the Beasts. A 
Bear Hunt, one of the few paintings 
by this master in which the figures 
are as large as life. A part of the ori¬ 
ginal painting has peeled off the canvas. 

Rembrandt. —The picture called the 
* Night Watch probably represents a com¬ 
pany of archers, with their leader, Cap¬ 
tain Kok, going out to shoot at the butts. 
It appears to have been much damaged. 
The name of Rembrandt is upon it, 
with the date, 1642. The unfavourable 
opinion of it expressed by Sir Joshua 
Reynolds is not confirmed by judges of 
art in the present day, who consider that 
he does injustice to one of the finest 
and most wonderful productions of the 
great painter. Another first-rate paint¬ 
ing is the ''''Portraits of 5 Syndics of the 
Drapers' Company and their servant. 
They are seated round a table, appa¬ 
rently conversing on matters of business. 
The heads are finely painted, particu¬ 
larly the one nearest to the right. 
There are parts of this painting which, 
in force of execution, the painter pro¬ 
bably never surpassed. It is pro¬ 
nounced to be the finest “ portrait 
group” in the world. Ruisdael. —A 
magnificent waterfall. The castle of 
Bentheim. The same subject is to be 
found at Dresden. 

Schalken. —William III., a portrait 
by candlelight. II. Walpole says that 
the artist made the King hold the can¬ 
dle until the tallow ran down and burnt 
his hand. Two Boys; one eating soup, 
the other an egg, with his face slobbered 
over by the yolk; called “ Every one to 
his fancywhich motto is written on 


the picture. Jan Steen is, perhaps, no¬ 
where seen to greater advantage. A 
Baker at a Window, and a Boy blowing 
a Horn to let the neighbours know that 
the rolls are ready. A Village Quack. 
The Fete of St. Nicholas, an occasion 
when the Dutch every year make pre¬ 
sents of bonbons to their children who 
behave well, while the naughty ones 
are left without anything, or receive a 
whipping. The story is admirably told 
in this picture, which is a chef-d’oeuvre 
of the master. Snyders. —Dead Wildfowl. 

Teniers. —Temptation of St. Anthony. 
A Peasant drinking and smoking. 
Terburg. —A Lady in 'White Satin talk¬ 
ing with a lady and gentleman. Her 
back only is seen, but the whole atti¬ 
tude shows that she is struggling with 
her feelings. (See Kugler, § LV. 5.) The 
Ministers at the Congress of Munster. 

A. Vander Venne. —Portrait of William 
I., taken after his death. IV. Vandc- 
velde. —View of Amsterdam, from the 
Schreijershoek Tower; dated 1686. 
“ One of the most capital works of this 
artist.” R. Paintings of the Sea Fight 
between the Dutch and English, which 
lasted 4 days, and in which the Dutch 
were victorious: one represents the 
battle between De Ruiter and General 
Monk, in which 4 English line-of- 
battle ships were taken. Calms at Sea, 
painted with the most exquisite clear¬ 
ness, and with that wonderful effect 
of distance over the surface of the 
water which is the peculiar excellence 
of Vandevelde. Vandyk. —Portraits of 
the Children of Charles I.: one of them, 
the Princess Mary, became the wife of 
William II., Prince of Orange. Francis 
Van der Borght, a masterly portrait. 

Weenix. —Dead Game. Wouvermans. 
—A Stag Hunt, in this artist’s best 
manner. The Chasse au Vol, Hawking 
Party. A pictiu-e representing officers 
plundered and boxmd by peasants. The 
horse is exquisitely painted. All three 
are very fine : there are others of great 
excellence, as, a Landscape, with a 
white Horse. 

The Museum also contains one of the 
most remarkable collections of prints in 








55 


ROUTE 2. —AMSTERDAM. CHARITIES. 


Holland. 

Europe, particularly rich in the Dutch 
ard Flemish masters, formed by Mr. 
Vf.n Leyden, and purchased by Louis 
Buonaparte, K. of Holland. It occupies 
200 portfolios. 

A fine Statue of Rembrandt was erected 
in the Botermarkt, 1851. 

In the Spin-house , or prison for female 
offenders, in the Nieuwe Prinsen Gracht, 
are several pictures and portraits of 
directors of the establishment, by Ru¬ 
bens and Van Dyk, exceedingly fine, and 
well worth notice. 

The cabinet bequeathed to the Royal 
Academy ay the late M. van der Hoop , 
shown for i small fee (50 cents), now in 
the Oude Man Huis, is also first-rate: it 
has an excellent Landscape by Adrian 
Vunder veldt, with figures of the painter 
and his family ; and one of the finest 
Ostades known, from the cabinet of the 
Duchesse de Berry; fine Adrian of 
Utrecht , Both, Mieris, Jan Steen. 

There are several first-rate Private 
Collections of pictures in Amsterdam: 
that belonging ;o M. Six (Heerengracht, 
bij de Vijzelstraat, X. No. 397) contains 
Reinbrandfs ^ length sketch of the 
Burgomaster Sis, painted with great 
power and effect; and of Madame Six, 
a wonderful picture.— G. Dome, A Girl 
with a Birdcage, exquisitely finished. 
—Metzu , A Fishwife. — Cuyp, Sunny 
Landscape, ship3 and water; and a 
moonlight view.— F. der Neer , Moon¬ 
light.— Hobbema, Landscape.— Ruisdael , 
ditto.— Wynants , ditto.— Paul Potter , 
Cattle; good.— Jan Steen , A Jewish 
Marriage. Weem'x, Dead Game. 

The gallery of Mrs. van Loon contains 
fine specimens of the Dutch school. This 
gallery may, perhaps, be seen by ap¬ 
plying, by letter, to the owners. 

The Fodor Museum on the Iveisers- 
gracht, bequeathed to the city by a 
Mr. Fodor, contains a very valuable 
collection of modern paintings, ancient 
and modern drawings, etchings, and 
engravings. They are preserved in a 
handsome building erected with every 
convenience and arrangement desirable 
for giving due effect to the extensive 


collection it contains; charge for ad¬ 
mission, 50 cents. Open daily, 10 to 2. 

The Historic Gallery of Pictures, con¬ 
tributions by the principal Dutch artists 
of the day, in one of the rooms of the 
Artist’s Club, Arti ct Amicitiae, on the 
Rokin, is open to the public on pay¬ 
ment of 25 cents, and is well worth a 
visit. 

Amsterdam is remarkable for the 
number and extensive bounty of the 
Charitable Institutions which it supports, 
for the most part, by voluntary contri¬ 
butions of its benevolent citizens. It 
is recorded that, when some one in con¬ 
versation with Charles II. prognosti¬ 
cated speedy ruin to the city from the 
meditated attack of Louis XIV.’s armies, 
Charles, who was well acquainted with 
the country from a long residence in it, 
replied, “ I am of opinion that Provi¬ 
dence will preserve Amsterdam, if it 
were only for the great charity they 
have for their poor.” This city alone, it 
is said, numbers no fewer than 23 insti¬ 
tutions of benevolence, including hos¬ 
pitals for the reception of the aged and 
infirm, the insane, orphans and widows, 
foundlings, &c., some of them attached 
to the churches of peculiar religions, 
others open to all sects without distinc¬ 
tion. At one time more than 20,000 
poor people received their daily bread 
and board from charity. Begging is 
forbidden, and is severely punished. 

Some of the almshouses, such, for in¬ 
stance, as the hospital for Protestant old 
men and women, on the Amstel, look 
more like princes’ palaces than lodgings 
for poor people. The Burgher Orphan 
Asylum receives 700 or 800 children, boys 
and girls, until they are 20 years of age; 
and before they are sent out into the 
world they are instructed in some trade 
or profession. They are well taken care 
of, and are very healthy. 

The orphan children of the different 
asylums are generally distinguished by 
a particular dress: those of the Protes¬ 
tant Burgher House (in which Van 
Speyk was brought up) wear black and 
red jackets; the girls of the Roman 
Catholic Orphan House wear black, 
with a white band round the head: the 
orphans educated in the Almosoniers’ 






56 


ROUTE 2. —AMSTERDAM. SOCIETIES. PROMENADES. Sect. L 


Orphan House are dressed in black, and 
wear round the left arm the colours of 
the town—a black, red, and white band, 
with a number. The intention of these 
costumes is to prevent their entrance 
into playhouses, gin-shops, or other 
improper places; a severe penalty being 
inflicted on persons who should admit 
children thus attired. 

There is a class of Provident Institu¬ 
tions here and in other Dutch towns, 
called Proveniers Haizen (providers’ 
houses), for the reception and comfort¬ 
able maintenance of old men and women, 
who pay a comparatively small sum, 
proportioned to their age (e. g. from 50 
to 55 years, 2000 guilders; 55 to 60, 
1500; 70 years and upwards, 500 guil¬ 
ders), for admittance, and are supported 
in respectability to the end of their days. 
They form a very suitable retreat for 
domestic servants, who by timely sav¬ 
ings may obtain an entrance; indeed, 
masters and mistresses sometimes re¬ 
ward old and faithful domestics by pay¬ 
ing for their admission. 

The poor throughout Holland are 
generally supported by voluntary con¬ 
tributions. In all the churches collec¬ 
tions are made every Sunday by the 
deacons, who go round to all present, 
carrying a little bag attached to the end 
of a stick, like a landing-net, with a 
monitory bell fixed to it, into which 
every person drops something suited to 
his means. 

There are also good institutions for 
the blind, and deaf and dumb. 

The Dutch are not altogether ab¬ 
sorbed in commerce, so as to be able to 
devote no time to literature and the arts; 
witness the society called Felix Mentis , 
from the first words of a Latin inscrip¬ 
tion placed upon the building, which is 
founded and supported entirely by mer¬ 
chants and citizens. The building is 
situated in the Kcizers Gracht. In its 
nature it bears some resemblance to the 
Iloyal Institution in London. It con¬ 
tains a libraiy r , museum, collections of 
casts of ancient statues, of chemical and 
mathematical instruments, a reading- 
room, and a very fine concert-room and 


observatory. Lectures are given m 
various branches of art, science, and 
literature. Though there is little in the 
building, perhaps, to take up the time 
of a stranger merely passing through 
the city, any intelligent individual, about 
to reside here, would find it an agreeable 
resource. 

There are many other useful societies, 
the most prominent being the Associa¬ 
tion for the Promotion of the Putlic Weal 
(Maatschappij tot nut van’t algemeen). 

It was established in 1784, by a simple 
Baptist clergyman named Nieuwen- 
huizen, at Monnikendam, and it now 
numbers 200 offsets or branch societies, 
and 13,000 members, extending all over 
Holland. Its object is the instruction 
and improvement in condition of the 
lower classes: 1. By promoting the 
education of the young, improving 
school books, establishing Sunday 
schools, and providing for the children 
after quitting school—establishing book 
societies and libraries for the poor. 

2. By extending information to adults 
by popular writings, pullic lectures, and 
the institution of bailcs for saving. 

3. By the distribution of public rewards 
to the industrious and virtuous among 
the poorer classes; bestowing medals on 
such as have risked t'aeir lives in pre¬ 
serving those of others, &c. The head¬ 
quarters of this admirable society are at 
Amsterdam, where an annual meeting 
of the members is held on the second 
Tuesday of August. A subscription of 
5 or 6 guilders yearly constitutes a 
member. Its influence had begun to 
extend to Belgium before the revolution 
of 1830, but has since been checked and 
totally suppressed by the priests. 

The Promenades are the Plantaadjc, . 
or Plantation , at the end of the Heeren 
Gracht, surrounded by canals, and not 
far from the dockyards. Near this is 
the * Zoological Garden, which deserves 
a visit (admission 50 cents). It is a 
place of general resort with the upper 
classes on Sunday afternoons and 
Wednesday evenings. It has a spacious 
and excellent Museum of shells, mine¬ 
rals, and skeletons well arranged, as 
also of Japanese curiosities. Not far 








Holland. route 2 . —Amsterdam, modes oe living. 


off is the Park, a private club, to 
which strangers may be admitted by a 
member. A people’s park has been 
laid out outside the Leyden-gate. 

The Amstel river is a great trunk of 
navigation. It is embanked, and navi¬ 
gable 11 m., to the boundary of the 
district at Amstcl-mondhard, where it 
divides into 2 branches, which unite 
with numerous canals, both in this 
district and that of Rijnland. The. 
banks of the Amstel, outside the Utrecht 
gate, are much resorted to. 

The want of spring-water, formerly 
severely felt in the city, is now supplied 
by a Water Company , established by Bri¬ 
tish capitalists, who have conveyed into 
Amsterdam pure water from the Dunes, 
near Haarlem. It is already laid on in 
the principal streets, and the good Hotels 
arc abundantly furnished. 

A portion of the poorer inhabitants 
live entirely in the cellars of the houses. 
There is also a class who live constantly 
upon the canals, making their vessels 
their home. “ In this and in many 
other respects the Dutch bear a strong- 
resemblance to the Chinese: like that 
industrious and economical race, they 
keep their hogs, their ducks, and other 
domestic animals constantly on board. 
Their cabins display the same neatness 
as the parlours of their countrymen on 
shore; the women employ themselves in 
all the domestic offices, and are assi¬ 
duous in embellishing their little sitting- 
rooms with the labours of the needle; 
and many of them have little gardens 
of tulips, hyacinths, anemones, and 
various other flowers. Some of these 
vessels are of great length, but generally 
narrow, suitable to the canals and sluices 
of the towns.”— Family Tour. 

“This mode of living is a good 
example of Dutch industry and thrift. 
A man marries—he and his wife possess 
or purchase a small boat that will carry 
1 to 3 tons. They live and cook on 
board, move about, carry articles to and 
from markets; and their first, if not 
second child is born, or at least nursed, 
in this puny vessel. The wife nurses 
the children, mends, and often makes, 


51 

all the family clothes, cooks, and assists 
in navigating the craft, especially in 
steering; when you may, at the same 
time, observe the husband with a rope 
over his shoulder dragging the boat 
along a canal or river when the wind is 
adverse. In process of time they buy a 
larger vessel, probably of 6 or 7 tons, 
and, if the smaller one be not unfit for 
use, sell it to a young beginning couple. 
In the second vessel then- family grows, 
until they are probably strong enough 
to manage together, with perhaps an 
additional hand or two, one of those 
large vessels, carrying from 200 to 400 
tons, called Rhine boats: on board of all 
which the population live in the manner 
before described.”— Commerc. Statisc. 

One of the most interesting spots in 
Amsterdam, from the bustle displayed 
on it, is the Harbour and the Quay , 
along the bank of the IJ. The two 
enormous dykes or dams constructed at 
vast expense, nearly parallel with tha 
shore, serve the double purpose of pro¬ 
tecting a part of the town from inunda¬ 
tions to which it was previously ex¬ 
posed, and of gaining from the river a 
considerable Space forming capacious 
basins or docks ( Oostelijk and Westelijk 
Dok ), capable of holding nearly 1000 
vessels, and closed by large sluice-gates. 
Between the two dams two rows of 
strong piles (bearing the singular name 
of Due d’Alben) extend. Openings are 
left at intervals between them to allow 
ships to enter and depart; these are 
closed at night by booms, so as to sepa¬ 
rate the harbour from the IJ. At the ex¬ 
tremity of the western dam, near the fish- 
market, is the Herring Packery, where, 
during the season of the herring fishery, 
all the business connected with the exa¬ 
mining, sorting the fish, and repacking 
them for foreign markets, is transacted 
in the presence of officers' appointed 
by the authorities. Every proceeding 
with respect to the herring fishery is re¬ 
gulated by a committee of managers, or 
shareholders, called commissioners of 
the Great Fishery (by which is meant 
the herring fishery), approved of by the 
government, and under the inspection 
of officers appointed by them. These 
regulations are exceedingly minute and 

D 3 










58 


ROUTE 2 . —AMSTERDAM. FISHERY. DOCKYARD 


Sect. L 


precise. “ The period when the fishery 
might begin is fixed at 5 min. past 
12 o’clock on the night of the 24th 
June; and the master and pilot of every 
vessel leaving Holland for the fishery 
are obliged to make oath that they will 
respect them. The species of salt to bo 
used in curing the different sorts of her¬ 
rings is also fixed by law; and there are 
endless rules with respect to the size of 
the barrels, the number and thickness 
of the staves of which they were to be 
made, the guttings and packing of the 
herring, the branding of the barrel. 
These regulations are intended to secure 
to the Hollanders that superiority which 
they had early attained in the fishery, 
to obtain for the Dutch herrings the 
best price in foreign markets, and to 
prevent the herrings being injured by 
the bad faith of individuals.”— McCul¬ 
loch’s Dictionary of Commerce. 

The fishery, however, is sadly fallen 
off at present; scarcely 200 herring 
vessels are sent out from the whole of 
Holland, instead of 2000, the number 
employed in former days. Still the 
arrival of the herrings is looked for 
with eager anticipation at Amsterdam : 
a premium is given to the first buss 
which lands a cargo; small kegs are 
then sold at a high price ; and a single 
herring often fetches as much as 5s. 
The art of curing herrings was invented 
by one William Beukels, of Biervliet, 
a Fleming; but it is not the fact that 
the Dutch and English derive from his 
name the word pickle ; which is no¬ 
thing more than the Dutch pekel 
(brine). In veneration for one who 
had conferred so great a benefit on his 
country, the Emperor Charles Y. made 
a pilgrimage to his tomb. 

Close to the Haringpakkerij is a 
bridge stretching across the harbour to 
the tavern (tailed Nieuwe-Stads-Herberg , 
which is the starting - place of the 
steamers to Saardam, and of the ferry¬ 
boat to Buiksloot. (Etc. 3.) Further 
on, by the side of the harbour, stands 
the antique Schreijershoelitoren (Weeper’s 
Corner Tower), so called because, being 
situated near the quay from which 
vessels used to set sail, it was a con¬ 
stant scene of lamentation and tears, 


which were shed by friends, wives, and 
children, at the departure of their hus¬ 
bands, fathers, or other relatives and 
connections. It dates from 1482.. 

The humble dwelling of the heroic De 
Ruyter still exists, No. 80, on the Y< 
Gracht or Buitenkant. 


On the Dam stands the house of the 
Zeemanshoop (Seamen’s Club), an asso¬ 
ciation of 300 members, chiefly ship 
captains, with which a charitable 
foundation for the benefit of their 
widows and orphans is connected. 
Many of the first people of Amsterdam 
are enrolled as members. 

Near the E. dock is the Naval 
Academy (Kweek-school voor de Zee- 
vaart), in which the sons of sailors are 
provided by the government with an 
education fitting them for the naval 
profession. In the yard attached to the 
building is a frigate fully rigged, to 
make the pupils acquainted with the 
details of a ship’s equipment. Their 
dormitory also is fitted up like the be- 
tween-decks of a man-of-war; every 
boy sleeps in his hammock, suspended 
from the roof, above his locker or chest 
in which his clothes, &c., are kept. 

Further E., beyond the quay of the 
IJ-gracht, a long bridge leads to the 
island of Kattenburg, on which is 
situated the National Dockyard (Lands, 
or Rijkswerf). It is now separated 
from the TJ by the eastern dam. It 
is the largest naval depot and arsenal 
in Holland; there are usually several 
vessels of war on the stocks. Admis¬ 
sion may be obtained by showing a 
written order from the British or Ame¬ 
rican consul to view it—its slips, rope- 
walks, model-room, in which are pre¬ 
served specimens of the worm-eaten 
piles alluded to above ; but an Eng¬ 
lishman will find that it is not to be 
compared with the dockyards of his own 
country. 

In the latter part of the 13th cent. 
Amsterdam was still a cluster of fisher¬ 
men’s huts, in a salt marsh. Its great 
advance in wealth and importance 
took place in the 16th cent., after the 
siege of Antwerp, when the persecu- 




Holland, route 2 . —Amsterdam. 

tions of the Spaniards in the Flemish 
provinces drove so many valuable sub¬ 
jects, active merchants, and clever manu¬ 
facturers, to seek for safety and the free 
exercise of the Protestant faith in Hol¬ 
land and England. Many wealthy in¬ 
habitants of the city also are descend¬ 
ants of refugees driven out of France 
on the revocation of the Edict of Nantes. 

It is supposed that Fenelon had Am¬ 
sterdam in view while describing Tyre 
in his Telemaquc. Its prosperity for 
a long time depended on its shipping, 
which engrossed the carrying trade of 
the whole world, and likewise had the 
effect of rearing a bold race of sailors, 
ready to fight the battles of their coun¬ 
try, and to brave storms and tempests, 
in every sea under heaven. At one 
period the trade in butter and cheese 
brought 1,000,000 ducats annually to 
Amsterdam. The Bank of Amsterdam , 
described by Adam Smith, no longer 
exists: another, the present Bank of 
the Netherlands on the Rokin, was set 
up by King William I., and the ca¬ 
pitalists here still continue the bankers 
of a large part of Europe. 

The Manufactures of Amsterdam com¬ 
prehend, besides those of cotton and 
woollen stuffs, which are to be found 
elsewhere, one or two which are almost 
peculiar to the spot; for example, the 
refineries of borax, a salt which is pro¬ 
duced from the mud of large lakes in 
Thibet, Persia, Tuscany, and South 
America; of camphor, the coagulated 
sap of a tree, found principally in 
China: it is used extensively in medi-' 
cine; while borax is an ingredient for 
making the solder used by jewellers. 
Smalt manufactories.—Smalt is a blue 
glassy substance produced from cobalt: 
the artificers of Amsterdam alone know 
how to refine it in the best manner, by 
grinding it minutely, and by other 
methods, which are kept secret. They 
produce a great variety of shades in 
the colour, which is chiefly employed 
in painting china. Many other articles 
are manufactured here, by methods 
believed to be known only in Amster¬ 
dam ; such as cinnabar or vermilion, 
rouge, white lead, and aquafortis; gold 
lace, and a great variety of scents and 


MANUFACTURES. THEATRES. 

perfumed oils, are also objects of com¬ 
merce. 

The art of cutting diamonds was 
for a long time confined to the Jews 
of Amsterdam and Antwerp. It is 
supposed not to have been known in 
Europe earlier than the 15th cent. 
The diamond mills at Amsterdam are 
numerous, and are exclusively the pro¬ 
perty of Jews, consequently are closed 
on Saturday, but not on Sunday. They 
are worked by steam-engines, setting in 
motion a number of small wheels, whose 
cogs, acting on regular metal plates, 
cause them to revolve 2000 times in a 
minute. Pulverised diamond is placed 
on these; and the stone to be polished, 
fastened in a metal cap, b 3 ^ means of an 
amalgam of zinc and quicksilver, is sub¬ 
mitted to the friction of the adamantine 
particles: each wheel can operate on 4 
stones at once. In order to cut the 
diamond, diamond-dust is fixed on metal 
wire that is moved rapidly backwards 
and forwards over the stone to be cut. 
Each perfect stone has 64 facets, each 
rose 32. M. Coster’s mills, which employ 
neai’ly 500 men, can be visited on 
obtaining, through the landlord of the 
hotel, a card of introduction. A fee 
of a florin for a small party, for the 
workmen’s sick-fund, is expected. 

Theatres. — Open alternately every 
day in the week but Sunday; per¬ 
formances begin at 6 or half-past 6.— 
1. The Dutch Theatre (Stads Schouw- 
burg, near the Leiden-gate), open in 
winter with Italian operas, Dutch 
tragedy and comedy. 2. The German 
Theatre , in the Amstel Straat, for 
German representations only. There 
is also a smaller theatre where vaude* 
villcs are represented, called The Salon 
des Var idles: it is much frequented, 
as smoking is allowed. Entrance 15 
stivers. Concerts are given at Fras¬ 
cati’s, in the Nes, in winter: at the 
Grand Hall in The Park in summer on 
Sundays. Theatres are closed from 
May to Aug. 31. 

Excellent curagoa is made at Am¬ 
sterdam at two-thirds of the English 
price ; it may be purchased very good 
at "Wynand Focking’s, in de Pijl Steeg, 



60 


ROUTE 3.—AMSTERDAM TO BROEK. 


Sect. I* 


near tlie Exchange. Anisette is another 
good liqueur manufactured here: the 
best may he got of Bols, in het Loosje. 

The annual Kermis or Fair (§ 15) 
takes place at the beginning of Sep¬ 
tember, and, while it lasts, attracts 
hither multitudes from the northern 
provinces. It may be styled the Dutch 
Carnival. 

Railroads (Hollandschc Spoorweg)— 
to Haarlem, Leiden, Hague, and Rot¬ 
terdam—terminus outside the Willems 
or Haarlem gate:—Rijn Spoorweg, to 
Arnhem and Rotterdam, via Utrecht; 
also to Dusseldorf, Cologne: — to 
Zwolle and Ivampen (Rte. 6) ; to Arn- 
heim, Zutphen, Salzbergen, Hanover, 
and Berlin (Rte. 10), terminus outside 
the Weesper gate (Rte. 5). 


ROUTE 3. 

AMSTERDAM TO BROEK, AND THE GREAT 

NORTH HOLLAND SHIP CANAL. AM¬ 
STERDAM TO ZAANDAM. 

Broek. — A steam ferry - boat plies 
every hour from the tavern called 
Nieuwe Stads-IIerbcrg, rising on piles 
in the midst of the IJ, to the S. point of 
the opposite shore of Waterland, l|m. 
from Buiksloot. Trekschuits ply from 
the same house to Broek 4 times 
a-day. The best way is to take the 
steamer to Zaandam, there hire a 
carriage for Broek (with 1 horse 5 
grs., exclusive of tolls and driver), 
which will bring you back to Buiksloot 
ferry (Tollhuis), where you embark for 
Amsterdam. 

The harbour of Amsterdam is fenced 
in with 2 long lines of piles driven 
into the mud, having open spaces at 
intervals to allow vessels to enter and 
depart. These openings are closed at 
night with booms, or large trees co¬ 
vered with iron spikes, which are drawn 
across and fastened with chains. About 
1810 it was discovered that a molluscous 
animal (Teredo navalis ) had reduced the 
piles, though of the finest heart of oak, 
to a state resembling honeycomb, so as 
to require constant renewal. 

In traversing the harbour long rows 
of little pavilions, raised upon wooden 
piers, are remarked, stretching far out 
from shore, several feet above the water. 
These are summer-houses belonging to 
the citizens, the owners of pleasure- 
boats, who delight to come hither and 
smoke their pipes and sip their wine, 




Holland. 


Cl 


ROUTE 3v—BUIKSLOOT. SHIP CANAL. 


beer, or coffee. From the landing-place 
Amsterdam is seen to great advantage, 
stretching along the opposite shore of 
the IJ. It is by far the best view of 
the city, and is a picture of wealth and 
industry, bearing witness to the extent 
of the trade which is still carried on 
with almost all parts of the globe. 

The is frozen over in severe win¬ 
ters. In the winter of 1794-5 the Dutch 
fleet lying in the JJ, opposite Amster¬ 
dam, was captured by a Fi’encli corps 
of cavalry and flying artillery! The 
vessels were frozen up in the ice at the 
time, and the detachment from the in¬ 
vading army crossed the ice to attack 
them. 

Buiksloot is a large village at the 
"Waterland dyke, abounding in spacious 
inns, with numerous apartments for the 
reception of guests from Amsterdam. 
Inns : ' Do Boer’s and Geritzen’s. 
Carriages may be hired here to go to 
Brock (4 m.) and return for 6 grs.; 
to Zaandam for 4 grs.; Momiikendam 
4^ grs.; Edam 5 grs. The longer tour 
by Broek, Monnikendam, Edam, Pur- 
merende (where is the only tolerable 
inn on the route, at which travellers may 
dine), to Saardam, costs 16 grs., and 
will occupy a whole day. 

The Grand Ship Canal of North 
Holland commences here directly oppo¬ 
site Amsterdam, and extends to Holder 
and the Texel, a^distance of 51 m. It is 
one of the greatest undertakings of the 
kin d ever executed. At the surface it 
is 124 ft. wide, at the bottom 31 ft., a 
breadth sufficient to admit two frigates 
to pass, and probably greater than that 
of any other canal in the world; and it 
is 21 ft. deep. It has locks only at 
each end. The lock-gates exceed in 
dimensions the largest in the docks of 
Liverpool; they are founded upon piles 
driven through the mud into sand. 
The level of the canal at Buiksloot is 
10 ft. below the mean height of the sea, 
and of course many feet below high 
tides. As a work of utility this canal 
deserves the highest praise, since it 
enables vessels to enter and quit the 


port of Amsterdam with safety, and 
without any delay, in defiance of con¬ 
trary winds, and unimpeded either by 
the storms or the thousand sandbanks 
of the dangerous Zuider Zee : at the 
same time avoiding the trouble and 
risk of passing the bar at the mouth of 
the IJ, called the Pampus, over which 
lay the only outlet to the sea before this 
canal was made. 

Large vessels were formerly obliged to 
discharge their cargoes on the outside of 
the harbour of Amsterdam, and were 
then lifted out of the water and floated 
over the bar by means of a machine 
called a camel, a species of double chest 
of wood, the 2 halves of which are 
shaped to fit the hull of a ship. Being 
filled with water and sunk, they arc 
attached to the side of the vessel to be 
lifted. The water is then pumped out 
of them, and of course, as they become 
buoyant, they raise the ship with them. 

The time employed in tracking the 
fly-boats from Amsterdam to the Holder, 
by the canal, is 10 hrs.; moderate sized 
vessels in about 18 hrs.; and large East 
Indiamen are tracked in 2, 3, or 4 days, 
according to the wind. Such vessels 
were not unfr equently detained as many 
weeks by tempestuous weather and other 
obstacles before they could make this 
short voyage by sea. 

The difficulties which opposed the 
formation of this canal, through ground 
consisting of low swamp and loose sand, 
increase our admiration of the skill and 
perseverance by which it was planned 
and executed. The original sea-shore, 
which is the only firm ground in New 
Holland, was found by boring to be 
43 ft. under the present surface, and 
the foundations of the locks were laid 
at that depth. One principal difficulty 
which occurs is the preventing the 
loose and silty soil which forms the 
banks of the canal from sliding down 
into the bottom and filling up the 
channel. Blanken was the engineer; 
it was begun 1819 and finished in 1825, 
at a cost of nearly IJ million sterling. 
The only disadvantage to which it is 
liable is that of being choked up by 
ice in winter. Some years ago 35,000 




Sect. 1. 


6 2 


ROUTE 3.—BROEK. 


guilders, about 3000/., were expended 
in cutting a passage through the ice for 
several outward-bound vessels. 

The road to Broek is dull; it runs 
through a flat country of meadows by 
the side of the N. H. Canal, as far as 
half way, and at the 2 nd bridge quits 
this and follows the Broek Canal, along 
which men and women, harnessed like 
horses to the towing rope, may be seen 
submitting to the drudgery of tracking 
barges laden with fruit and vegetables 
for the Amsterdam market. The habi¬ 
tations passed on the way are mostly 
cottages of one story, surmounted by 
roofs nearly twice as high as the walls; 
these serve as storerooms for the winter 
stock of hay. 

Broek (pronounced Brook), cele¬ 
brated as the cleanest village in the 
world, is a place of considerable extent, 
built on the border of a large pond or 
lake. Many of its 800 Inhab. are 
merchants, landed proprietors, under¬ 
writers, stockbrokers, or tradesmen 
who have amassed fortunes and retired 
from business. Some of them are taken 
up with the manufacture of those little 
round cheeses known all over the world 
as Dutch cheeses, an article of great 
traffic, and source of considerable wealth 
to the province of North Holland. 
“ There is neither horse nor cart road 
through the place, so we were obliged 
to leave our carriage at a small inn on 
its outskirts, and to walk through it. 
A notice on a board warns strangers that 
they are not to smoke in the village 
without a stopper on their pipe, nor to 
ride through it, but must dismount and 
lead their horse at a foot pace! The 
narrow lanes or passages which inter¬ 
sect it are paved with bricks or little 
stones set in patterns. Broek has been 
the subject of many exaggerated de¬ 
scriptions ; this, for instance, is dignified 
in the Guide-books by the name of 
mosaic. The paths are strewed with 
sand or shells. The houses are mostly 
of wood, painted white and green, 
with roofs of glazed tiles of dif¬ 
ferent colours : the habitations of the 
poorer classes are usually only of 
one story; those of the rich are for 


the most part of the style which 
has been appropriately called ‘ the 
florid Cockney,’ something between 
Grecian, Chinese, and Saracenic : one 
has a pasteboard-looking front, in¬ 
tended to represent a temple; another 
is painted with such various colours as 
to call to mind the scenery of a theatre. 
Many of them are planted at the edge 
of canals and are approached by bridges 
formed of planks. Broek has an in¬ 
animate and listless appearance, owing 
to the custom of keeping the front door 
and windows always closed, save for 
the entrance of the bridal pair after 
marriage, and for the exit of a 0017)80 
for burial. No one should visit Broek 
without entering one of the houses, as 
the interior -is far more curious than the 
outside. The greater part of them are 
private dwellings, and of coui’se strangers 
are not admitted without an introduction 
to their owners. Before almost every 
house in the place we had remarked a 
large collection of shoes and sabots, for 
the inmates usually put them off at the 
door, like the Turks, and walk through 
the house in slippers or stockings ; and 
even the Emperor Alexander, it is said, 
on visiting Broek, was compelled to 
comply with this usage.” 

“ On entering one of the numerous 
dairy-farms where cheese is made, we 
found a stable for the cows in winter 
running round three sides of it, the 
centre and remaining side being set 
apart for human beings. The cows were 
all absent from home in their summer 
quarters—the fields. I am sure that f 0 of 
the poor people of England, and a much 
larger proportion of the Irish, are not so 
well and cleanly lodged as the brutes in 
this country. The pavement was of 
Dutch tiles, the walls of deal boards, 
not painted or rough sawn, but as 
smooth and as clean as a dining-table 
in an English farm-house. From one 
end of the stable to the other runs a 
gutter, and above it, over each stall, a 
hook is fastened in the ceiling. When 
the cattle are within doors their tails, 
from motives of cleanliness, that they 
may not dangle in the dirt and besmear 
their comely sides, are tied up to these 
hooks in the ceiling! ” 



6‘6 


ITolland. route 3 . —broek* purmerende. zaandam. 


Here may be seen the cheeses in 
Various stages of preparation, some in 
the press, others soaking in water and 
imbibing salt. A vast quantity of these 
sweet-milk cheeses (zoetemellc kaas), or 
Edam cheeses as they are here styled, are 
made in North Holland. They are sold 
at the markets at Alkmaar, Hoorn, &c., 
and are exported thence to the most 
distant countries of the globe. 

The closed door in every house, men¬ 
tioned above, leads to an apartment 
which is rarely entered or opened, save 
by the housewife herself, who once 
a-week unfastens the shutters, takes 
down all the china, dusts it, and scrubs 
the furniture ; and after scorning the 
walls and floor, and polishing the stoves, 
closes up the door and shutters again, 
till the revolving week brings round 
another day of purification. 

Travellers are for the most part 
conducted over a house which appears 
to be “ got up ” for their recreation. 
The hostess stands ready at the door 
to conduct them over it and show them 
her collection of cups and saucers, 
and visitors’ cards. The garden at¬ 
tached to one of the mansions is the 
show place at Broek. Such an accu¬ 
mulation of pavilions, arbours, summer¬ 
houses, pagodas, bridges, and temples, 
Gothic, Grecian, Chinese, and rustic, 
are nowhere else to be seen. In one 
spot a Swiss cottage is tenanted by two 
wooden puppets as large as life, one of 
which smokes a pipe, the other, a 
female, spins, and even sings, while a 
wooden dog barks at the entrance of 
strangers, all by the aid of clockwork. 
In one comer of this toyshop garden is 
a wooden garde d'c chasse, with a sham 
musket, in the attitude of one about to 
shoot; in the pond a pasteboard swan, 
duck, and a mermaid. 

With all its absurdity and extrava¬ 
gance Broek must not be regarded 
as a characteristic specimen of Holland ; 
as the village is, in fact, unlike any 
other, and exhibits a caricature of Dutch 
manners and cleanliness, as well as of 
Dutch taste. 

An English traveller, fond of agri¬ 
cultural pursuits, would find much gra¬ 
tification in a visit to the neighbouring 


small town of Purmerende. Near it he 
will see the great drained lake called 
Beemster ; here he will find the richest 
meadows, the finest cattle, the neatest 
farm-houses, and the most perfect dairies 
and cow-stables. Here he may taste in 
spring and summer the finest butter and 
richest cream in the world. He may 
also learn many useful particulars re¬ 
specting the Dutch system of grazing 
and breeding cattle. This district, 
which is more particularly described 
in Route 4, would afford a more correct 
idea of Holland, and the manners of 
the Dutch, than a mere visit to Brock. 

To proceed from Broek to Zaandam 
the road must be retraced nearly to 
Buiksloot; thence to Saardam it runs 
along the back of a huge sea dyke, 
which follows the indentations of the 
shore, and keeps out the sea from a dis¬ 
trict so intersected in every direction 
by canals, that the extent of water 
nearly equals that of dry land. 

Zaandam.— Steamers ply twice a-day 
in winter, and six times a-day in sum¬ 
mer, between Amsterdam (Stadsher- 
berg) and Zaandam across the V in 1 
hr.; fare 9 stivers. 

Zaandam (improp crly Saardam ). This 
town stands at the junction of the Zaan 
with the IJ : it has 12,000 Inhab. It con¬ 
sists of a line of windmills, amounting to 
400 in number, some of gigantic size, 
with the houses attached to them ex¬ 
tending along the banks of the Zaan to 
the neighbouring villages of Zaandijk, 
lvoeg, Wormerveer, and Krommenie, 
and forming together a street nearly 
5 m. long. The windmills are turned 
to a great variety of uses besides that 
of grinding corn. The water is pumped 
up and land drained, timber is sawn, 
paper is made, tobacco chopped into 
snuff, rapeseed crushed for the oil, and 
colours ground for the painter, entirely 
by their agency. The oil-mills are 
well worth the attention of persons ac¬ 
quainted with the state of similar works 
in England. The oil trade is of great 
importance here. In some of these 
windmills a peculiar kind of sandstone, 
brought from the neighbourhood of 
Bremen, is reduced into dust solely to 


t 





64 


ROUTE 4. —HAARLEM TO THE HELDER. 


Sect. 1. 


furnish the Dutch housewife with sand 
for her floor. Still more important are 
those mills in which the volcanic tuff, 
brought from the borders of the Rhine 
near Andernach, is ground to powder, 
to supply, when mixed with lime and 
sand, that valuable cement called ter- 
rass, used in constructing locks, sluices, 
and dykes, which has the property of 
hardening under water. 

Zaandam is, secondly, remarkable for 
the * Cottage or hut in which Peter the 
Great lived in 1696, while working as 
a common shipwright in the shipyards 
of Mijnheer Calf, a rich merchant, in 
order to enable himself to instruct his 
subjects in the art of building ships. 
He went by the name of Peter Baas, 
or Master Peter, among his fellow- 
laboiu’ers; wore a common carpenter’s 
dress, and was seen in that costume 
hard at work by the great Duke of 
Marlborough. 

The building is of rough planks, and 
leans much on one side, from the founda¬ 
tion having given way. It was bought 
by the late Queen of Holland, sister of 
the Emperor Alexander, who, in order 
to protect so venerable a relic from the 
destroying effects of the weather, caused 
a case to be built over it, which can be 
closed with shutters. It consists of two 
small rooms: in one of them is Peter’s 
bed, which is nothing better than a cup¬ 
board, closed in front with doors : above 
is a loft, which can only be entered by 
a ladder. The walls of the two rooms 
are covered with names from all coun¬ 
tries of the world, in pen, pencil, ink, 
or cut with a knife. Among the rest 
is that of the Emperor Alexander, who 
caused a marble tablet to be placed 
over the chimney-piece with the words 
“ Petro Magno Alexander.” On the 
wall is another inscription to this 
effect:— 

“ Nothing is too small for a great man.” 

Portraits of Peter and his wife are 
to be seen here. 

The period of Peter’s stay at Zaan¬ 
dam was much more limited than is 
generally supposed. He suffered so 
much inconvenience from the concourse 
of idle gazers who assembled to look 
at him, that he preferred retiring to 


Amsterdam, where he could work in 
comparative privacy within the walls 
of the dockyard of the East India Com¬ 
pany. Large ships are no longer built 
here. 

Two hrs. are amply sufficient to see 
all that is remarkable in Zaandam, and 
at the expiration of that time the 
steamer will have returned, which will 
take the traveller back to Amsterdam, 
enabling him to make the excursion in 
4 or 5 hrs. 

Steamers ascend the Zaan from Zaan¬ 
dam to Alkmaar. 


ROUTE 4* 

HAARLEM TO THE HELDER, BY ALK¬ 
MAAR AND HET NIEUWE DIEP, AND 

BACK TO AMSTERDAM.—RAILWAY. 

46 Eng. m. 4 or 5 trains daily in 
2 ^ hrs. 

Alkmaar may also be reached from 
Amsterdam by the North Holland 
Canal in about 3 hrs. A small steamer 
plies to Velzen twice a day, by which 
the visitor may see the works of the 
great Ship Canal to the North Sea. 
Hence, return by train, or go on to 
Alkmaar. 

Steamer from Amsterdam by Zaan* 
dam, where passengers are transferred 
to a smaller steamer on the Zaan river, 
in about 3 hrs., by Wormerveer, the 
Canal of Marker-Vaarl, and the Lake of 
Alkmaar. 

North Holland, lying as it does 
out of the great route between Am- 






Holland. route 4. —haarlem to the h elder. 


65 


sterdam and Rotterdam, is rarely 
visited by travellers. The inhabitants, 
living removed from intercourse with 
strangers, retain more of the old cus¬ 
toms, habits, and dress of their fore¬ 
fathers than is found in South Holland. | 
This province is besides physically in¬ 
teresting, from its position and the 
nature of the soil. It is a peninsula, 
projecting into the sea; the borders of 
it contiguous to the ocean consist of ( 
sand; the rest is clay and bog: its 
length is about 20 leagues, and its 
greatest breadth 5 or 6. The land lies, 
almost everywhere, below the level of 
the ocean, and is protected from its in- ! 
roads, from Kijkduin along the coast of 
the Zuider Zee to Zaandam and Bever- ! 
wijk, by large dykes, which, in the 
neighbourhood of the Helder, surpass 
in size and strength all others that are 
to be met with in Holland, except those 
of West Kappel, in Zealand; so stu¬ 
pendous are they that on their account 
alone this comer of Europe deserves to 
be explored. It is intersected in its 
entire length by the Great North Hol¬ 
land Canal (see Rte. 3 ), through which 
great part of the commerce of Amster¬ 
dam now passes. A short distance off 
its shore were fought some very me¬ 
morable engagements between the Dutch 
and English, especially that of Camper- 
down, gained by Lord Duncan. The 
fortress of the Helder, rising out of sand 
and waves, and the roads of the Texel, 
lie at the termination of it. The cattle j 
fed upon this tongue of land are famed 
for their beauty, and the abimdance and , 
richness of the milk and cheese which 
they yield; the sheep for the fineness ! 
of their fleeces and the excellence of 
their mutton. Those who take an in¬ 
terest in hydraulics will find many ob- ! 
jects worthy of their attention. The 
females of North Holland are par¬ 
ticularly distinguished by, the clear¬ 
ness of their complexions, and by the 
neatness and gracefulness of their cos- . 
tume, which is almost peculiar to the 
district. The back of the head is encir- ( 
cled by a broad fillet of pure gold, shaped 
like a horse-shoe, which confines the 
short-cut hair, and terminates on each 
side of the temple in 2 large rosettes, also 
of pure gold, suspended somewhat like ) 


blinkers before the eyes of a horse; over 
this is worn a cap or veil of the finest 
and richest lace, with lappets hanging 
down the neck; and a pair of enor¬ 
mous gold ear-rings. These ornaments 
arc often of real gold, even among the 
lower classes, and the cost of them is 
considerable. Great sacrifices arc made 
to purchase them, and they are con¬ 
sidered heir-looms in a family. In the 
eh. at Alkmaar300of these head-dresses 
may be seen at once, on Sunday. 

At the Inns in North Holland the 
charges, formerly high, have become 
more moderate. The traveller may 
expect to pay for bed and breakfast 
1 gr. 40 cents, to 2 guilders; for dinner, 
with wine, 2 gr. 5 cents, to 2 guilders 
25 cents. 

The immediate neighbourhood of 
Haarlem is pleasing. Not far from the 
road, and backed by trees, stood the 
Castle of Brederode , now a picturesque 
ruin (Rte. 2); beyond this come the 
Dunes, from whose ridges a view ex¬ 
tends on the right over the "Wijker 
meer, covered with shipping, even to 
the windmills of Zaandam, which may 
be discerned on a clear day. 

Yelzen Stat. The Church has a brick 
tower of the 9tli (or 8th ?) century. A 
Yelzen we may inspect the works for the'" 
New Ship Canal, carried on by English 
and Dutch engineers with English capi¬ 
tal, to connect Amsterdam directly with 
the N. Sea, conveying the largest ships, 
fully laden. To the W. of Velzen the 
great North Sea Harbour of Refuge is 
being formed, by throwing out 2 piers 
of concrete blocks, each 5000 ft. long, 
to enclose 250 acres. Stretching inland 
from this is the Tidal Basin , which will 
form the entrance to the Canal: —this 
will be 26 ft. deep and 197 ft. wide 
at the surface. It will not only connect 
Amsterdam with the Noi'th Sea, but 
by the strength of its boundary dykes 
will allow 14,000 acres to be reclaimed 
from the IJ and Wyker Meer. The 
engineers are Mr. Hawkshaw and Myn¬ 
heer Dirks. It may be finished in 
1876.—( See Amsterdam.) 

Beverwijk Stat. (Inn, Heerenlogc- 
ment), a town of 2500 Inhab., a pattern 
of Dutch purity and neatness, in its clean 
streets, villa-like houses with fresh 









66 


ROUTE 4.—NORTH HOLLAND. ALKMAAR. ZAND. 


Sect. I. 


painted jalousies and window-sills, and 
its rows of trees clipped like hedges. At 
Prinsens Bosch, or Kruidberg, near 
Beverwijk, a country seat of William 
III., the expedition to England, which 
led to the dethronement of James II. 
and the Revolution of 1688, was planned 
and decided on. At Beverwijk the road 
leaves the shore of the Wijker meer. 
The countiy beyond is almost entirely 
devoted to pasture, and is covered over 
with beautiful herds of cattle, which 
here compose the wealth of the district. 
Except a few willows, trees have almost 
entirely disappeared; the country is one 
vast meadow. 

Castricum Stat. 

In 1799 an English expedition, which 
landed at the Helder, penetrated as 
far as this village, where they were 
repulsed by the French under General 
Brune. Farther on, to the 1., stand 
the ruins of Egmont , from which the 
noble family, so distinguished in the 
annals of Holland, derived its origin 
and name. It was destroyed by the 
Spaniards. A very small portion of the 
castle but none of the abbey remains. 
Many Counts of Holland were buried in 
the latter. The philosopher Descartes 
resided here for some time. 

15 m. Alkmaar Stat. — Inns: H. dc 
Toelast, good ;—Hof van Holland ;— 
Heerenlogement. Alkmaar stands upon 
the Great Canal of the Texel; it derives 
its name from the number of morasses and 
ponds, now dried up, which surrounded 
it in ancient times; it has 11,000 
Inhab., and is a simpassing example 
of Dutch neatness and good order, in its 
streets and houses, that to a traveller is 
very striking. The Dairies here de¬ 
serve a visit. 

The Hotel de Ville is an ornamented 
edifice, with Gothic traces. The Ch. of 
St. Lawrence is a very handsome Gothic 
building of the 15th cent. It has a fine 
E. porch. Here may be seen a 
Dutch painting, by an unknown master, 
(1504) of the Seven Acts of Mercy, 
and the tomb of Count Floris Y. of 
Holland (1296). It has been carefully 
restored. 

The town carries on the most consider¬ 
able commerce in cheese of any place in 


the world. A weekly market is held here 
for the sale of it, to which the farmers 
and country people for many miles roimd 
resort, and dispose of the produce of their 
dairies to merchants, who export it to the 
extremities of the earth. The market¬ 
place, at these times—piled up with 
balls—reminds one of Woolwich Ar¬ 
senal. 9,000,000 lbs. of cheese are 
weighed annually in the Townscales, or 
Weighing House, a picturesque build¬ 
ing, date 1582. Alkmaar has many nice 
walks around it, especially the Wood, 
(Bosch) inferior to those of the Hague 
and Haarlem. 

Alkmaar endured, in 1573, a siege 
from the Spaniards, nearly equal in 
the severity with which it was urged 
on by the besiegers, and hardly inferior 
in the glorious example of bold resist¬ 
ance offered by the citizens, to those of 
Haarlem and Leiden. It was the first 
enterprise in which the Spaniards failed; 
it allowed the rest of Holland to draw 
breath and gain confidence. The de¬ 
fence was the more noble, since the re¬ 
solution of adhering to the side of the 
Prince of Orange was not adopted by 
the men of Alkmaar until the enemy 
was at their gates. 

North of Alkmaar, upon the sea¬ 
shore, between Eamp and Petten, is a 
place called Hondsbosche, the worst 
defended and most dangerous spot along 
the whole Dutch coast, where the sea is 
constantly gaining upon the land. As 
there are no dunes here, the ocean is 
only kept out by artificial means, by 
building breakwaters, and throwing up 
jetties at right angles with the beach, 
which require urn-emitting care and 
attention. It is probable that one of 
the ancient mouths of the Rhine en¬ 
tered the sea at this point, previous to 
the formation of the Zuider Zee. (§ 9.) 

Among the villages seen on the way 
to Zand is Camperdown , off which was 
fought Admiral Duncan’s action, in 
which he gained a complete victory 
over the Dutch in 1797. 

The dunes (§ 12 ) near Camperdown 
are composed of sand so very fine, and so 
extremely pure and white, that it is ex¬ 
ported in large quantities to England, to 
supply some of our glass manufacturers. 

14 m. Het Zand .—Inn kept by Hout. 









Holland, route 4. —hugowaard 

The name of the place will give the best 
idea of its situation; it lies in a dreary- 
waste, all sand , in many places so loose 
as to be moved about by the wind. 

The road beyond runs alongside the 
canal. 

Hugowaard Stat., near the village of 
Eustemburg. Not far from this “ the 
3 polders (§ 11), the Hugowaard, the 
Schermermeer, and the famous Beem- 
ster, meet. In the centre of this kind of 
triangle is built the pretty town of 
Schermeer Hoorn, the steeples of which, 
shining amidst the trees, command the 
superb basins which surround it. The 
streets extend along the high land in 
the 3 directions which are open to 
them, so as to give it a most singular 
form. In order to reach it we had tra¬ 
velled along the course of the dyke 
half way up. 10 or 15 ft. above 
our heads, was the great canal com¬ 
mon to all these polders, and the 
sails (of boats?) appearing above the 
trees every instant hid the sun from 
us. On the right, at the same distance 
below us, we saw similar canals and 
windmills, the sails of which were 
hardly on a level with us, and in a 
hollow, extending farther than we could 
see, the herds concealed in the tufted 
grass of the polder. It was completely 
the world turned upside down. In 
some countries we are accustomed to 
see the sails of the windmills higher 
than the rudders of the ships, and the 
goats perched above the crags ; but in 
North Holland we must be contented to 
see everything different from what it is 
elsewhere .”—Journey in North Holland. 

The Beemster is one of the largest, 
most fertile, and best drained lake-beds 
or polders. It took 4 years to drain 
it: the undertaking was commenced in 
1808. The finest mutton in all Hol¬ 
land is fed upon its pastures. It abounds 
in large trees, the trunks and lower 
branches of which are actually painted 
over with various colours; whether to 
improve and increase their beauty, or 
with some view to utility in preserving 
them from insects or moisture, appears 
uncertain. But the practice, strange 
as it may appear, prevails in other parts 
of North Holland. 

Schagen Stat., a beautiful village, 


SCHAGEN. NIEUWE DIEP. (>7 

situated in a drained lake, called the 
Zijp, the oldest drained land in North 
Holland. Flax of a very fine quality 
is cultivated in the neighbourhood, and 
Schagen is the market where it is sold. 

The country hereabouts is clothed 
with the richest verdure, and supports 
numerous herds of cows and large 
flocks of sheep, whose wool is famous, 
and the mutton highly prized: it 
abounds in old trees, and is sprinkled 
over with houses, affording by their 
neatness a sure indication of the owners’ 
prosperity. The district is intersected 
in all directions by canals; and it is 
curious sometimes to observe the sails 
of the barges overtopping the roofs of 
the houses, and slowly moving along, 
to all appearances over the fields, as the 
canal itself is concealed from view. 

The isthmus along which the road 
is carried, formerly not more than 2 
miles broad, has been extended since 
1850 by the formation of a polder, 
named 

Anna Paulowna (Stat.), after the 
Dowager Queen of Holland, and the 
Zuider Zee driven back by additional 
dykes opposed to its waters. Here may 
be observed in summer large numbers 
of the sea-fowl (Anas tadorna), which 
builds its nest and lays its eggs in 
rabbit-holes. 

10 m. Het Nieuwe Diep, or Willems- 
oord. Inns: Den Burg; fine view of 
the sea; close to the canal; clean and 
comfortable:—H. Toelast at the landing- 
place of the steamers. Fine view over 
the harbour. Provisions are dear here. 
Though in the midst of the sea, fish are 
very scarce. 

The port of Nieuwe Diep (Pop. 4100). 
the Portsmouth of Holland, about a 
mile from the Helder, has been en¬ 
tirely formed, by artificial means, since 
the end of the last century. It 
affords protection, by means of piers 
and jetties stretelling out from the 
shore, to all vessels entering the great 
canal, even to men-of-war and mer¬ 
chantmen of large burden. There is a 
steam-engine for emptying the dry 
dock ; and the entrance of the basin is 
closed by a kind of sluice-gate, called 
Fan Sluices , from their shape ; by an 
ingenious contrivance the force of the 






68 


ROUTE 4.—THE HELDEK. 


Sect. I. 


rising tide is directed against them in 


such a manner as to shut them, and 
effectually to exclude itself. The North 
Holland Canal terminates in the sea 
at Nieuwe Diep. A row of small low 
houses, more than a mile long, by the 
side of a canal, extends from Nieuwe 
Diep to 

The Helder &'tat., a strongly fortified 
town, -with 12,000 Inhab., opposite the 
island of the Texel. Between the Helder 
and Texel lies the passage for large 
ships from the N. into the Zuider Zee 
and to Amsterdam. The view from the 
extremity of the fortifications, looking 
towards it and over the Mars Diep. 
or entrance into the Zuider Zee, is fine. 
Down to the end of the last cent., 
the Helder was little more than a fishing 
village. Napoleon converted it into a 
fortress of first rank, capable of con¬ 
taining 10,000 men in its bomb-proof 
casemates, at an expense of many mil¬ 
lions of francs. He called it his 
Northern Gibraltar, hut left the forti¬ 
fications in a very unfinished state. Its 
batteries defend the roads of the Mars 
Diep, and the entrance of the harbour 
and grand canal. On the highest point 
of the dunes is Fort Kijkduin, out of 
the midst of which rises the lighthouse. 

The extremity of the tongue of land 
which forms North Holland, being more 
exposed to the fury of tempests and the 
encroachments of the ocean than almost 
any other, is defended on all sides by a 
dyke of the very largest dimensions : 
within this rampart lie the town and 
fortress of the Helder. “ The great 
dyke of the Helder, which is nearly 2 
leagues in length, is 40 ft. broad at the 
summit, over which there is a very good 
road. It descends into the sea by a 
slope of 200 ft., inclining about 40 
degrees. The highest tides are far from 
covering the top; the lowest are equally 
far from showing the base. At certain 
distances enormous groynes of timber 
piles and fascines, covered with stone, 
averaging in length 200 yards, project 
into the sea. This artificial and gi¬ 
gantic coast is thus composed of blocks 
of granite and limestone, brought from 
Norway or Belgium ; and these masses, 
which look as if it were impossible to 
move them, are levelled and squared 


like a pavement. The number of rocks 
which are seen at one view are suffi¬ 
cient to confound the imagination ; how 
much more when we think on the quan¬ 
tities buried beneath the waves to serve 
as the foundation of such mountains.”— 
Journey in N. Holland. 

The Helder is almost the only spot 
on the coast of Holland where there i3 
deep water close in shore. The rush, 
or u race,” of the tide from the ocean 
into the Zuider Zee, through the nar¬ 
row strait between Helder (Hels-deur 
—hell’s door) and the island of the 
Texel, constantly scorns out the pas¬ 
sage and keeps it deep. The passage 
of the Texel, called Be Witt's Diep , 
was first laid open to Dutch commerce 
by the Grand Pensionary de Witt, 
1665, when, after using the most ex¬ 
traordinary efforts to equip a fleet 
against England, its sailing was pre¬ 
vented by the assertion of all the Dutch 
pilots and commanders that the wind 
was unfavourable, and the passage out 
to sea impracticable. In the teeth of 
this opinion of practical seamen he 
proceeded in his long boat to this 
channel, took the soundings with his 
own hand, found the depth double that 
which had been set down, and, on his 
own responsibility, weighed anchor in 
the largest ship of the squadron, and 
put to sea through the dreaded gut in 
spite of the wind, himself leading the 
van. 

The British forces, under Sir Ralph 
Abercrombie and the Duke of York, in 
1799, landed here, and took possession 
of the Helder, and of the Dutch 
fleet, but were compelled to re-em- 
barlc a few weeks afterwards, although 
they were successful at Egmont op 
Zee, and in several other important 
actions against the enemy, having fruit¬ 
lessly endeavoured to excite the Dutch 
to rise, and throw off the yoke of France. 

Steamers daily in 14 hr. (fare 60 
cents.) to 

The island of the Texel , which contains 
about5000 Inhab., and supports myriads 
of sea-birds, and about 30,000 sheep, 
whose fleeces, of remarkable length and 
fineness, are highly prized. They arc 
of a breed peculiar to the island: a 
sort of green-coloured cheese is made 















MEDEMBLIK. HOORN. 


69 


Holland. route 4.—the texel. 

here of the ewes’ milk. In 1845, 32,000 
lbs. of ewe-milk cheese were sold here. 
The chief place in the island is De Burg. 

The traveller may either return to 
Alkmaar, or may make his way by 
canal or railway to Broek and Zaandam 
through 

Medemblik ( Inn , Yalk, not good, and 
dear); an old decayed town, 2250 In- 
hab., containing the Royal Naval 
Academy, through which young sailors 
must pass before they can enter the 
Dutch navy as midshipmen. 

About 10 m. E. of Medemblik, on 
the Zuider Zee, is Enkhuizen {Inn, 
Yalk), another decayed town, which 
once sent out 400 vessels to the deep 
sea herring-fishery : at present it does 
not employ 50 ; and its population is 
diminished to 5400. Paul Potter was 
born here. A plan has been drawn out 
for draining the Zuider Zee by throwing 
a dyke across from between Medemblik 
and Enkhuizen to Stavoren, leaving a 
wide canal for the passage of the tides 
and the exit of the rivers IJssel, Vecht, 
&c., and communicating with the at 
Amsterdam. The cost is estimated at 
5 millions sterling. 

The steamer to Harlingen (Rte. 7) 
from Amsterdam calls daily. 

Hoom.—Inn : Oude Doelen is the 
only tolerable one. Pop. 9500.—In 
the Stadhuis are some remarkable 
pictures of the old schutterij (militia), 
in the Spanish times, by Rottiers, a 
pupil of Van der Ilelst; also the sword of 
the Spanish Admiral de Bossu, who was 
taken, after a severe engagement, by 
the Dutch, commanded by Admiral 
Derks. This is the native place of the 
mariner "William Schouten, who, in 
1616, first doubled the southernmost 
cape of America, which he named after 
his birthplace, Cape Hoom, or Horn. 
Abel Jansz Tasman, who discovered 
Yan Diemen’s Land and New Zealand, 
was also born here. Hoom, like many 
other towns of North Holland, is sadly 
fallen off in trade and prosperity. Its 
present trade consists chiefly in its 
exports of butter and cheese, provisions 
and fish. Its manufactures, ship¬ 
building, and even its herring-fishery, 
are of little value compared with their j 


former magnitude. The great fleet of 
Ad. de Ruiter was built here. From the 
Helder to Hoorn is a journey of 6 hrs. 

From Hoorn to Purmerende in a car¬ 
riage takes 3 hrs., and thence to Buik- 
sloot (Rte. 3) 4 hrs. 

Purmerende {Inn, Heerenlogement, 
the only tolerable inn between the Hel¬ 
der and Amsterdam), situated at the S. 
angle of the Beemster, on the banks of 
the Great Canal, and between the 3 
polders, the Beemster, the Parmer, and 
the Wormer. No one should pass 
through Purmerende or the Beemster 
without making trial of the produce of 
the dairies — the cream, butter, and 
cheese here are excellent. The quantity 
of cheese sold in 1845 in Purmerende 
was 1,300,000 Dutch pounds. 

Travellers returning by the canal to 
Amsterdam should leave the steamer at 
Purmerende and take coach to Broek, 
and so to Buiksloot. 

Monnikendam .—A village of 2000 In- 
hab. From this place travellers may 
proceed to Broek and view that curious 
village; then to Buiksloot, where they 
may cross by the ferry to Amsterdam, 
or, taking the road along the dykes, 
lengthen their journey to Zaandam; and, 
after seeing there the cabin of Peter the 
Great, embark in the steamer for Am¬ 
sterdam, as described in Rte. 3. 

A trip may be made from Monniken¬ 
dam to the island of Marken, where 
the manners and the mode of living of 
the inhabitants are far more curious, 
because they preserve their primitive 
simplicity, than in the dull village of 
Broek. Its inhabitants consist almost 
exclusively of fishermen and their 
families. It affords no accommodation 
for travellers, and can only be reached 
by means of a hired fisher’s boat. An 
unfavourable wind might detain the 
visitor on the island too long to be 
pledsant. 

The country forming the W. shore 
of the Zuider Zee is so populous that 
the line of villages, towns, and gardens 
is almost uninterrupted. The neatness, 
the order, and active industry displayed 
at every step are highly interesting. In 
short, the excursion in North Holland 
is capable of affording much gratification 
to a traveller. 





70 


ROUTE 5. —AMSTERDAM TO COLOGNE BY UTRECHT. 


Sect. I. 


ROUTE 5. 

AMSTERDAM OR ROTTERDAM TO COLOGNE, 

BY UTRECHT AND ARNHEM[NIJMEGEN], 

BY CLEVES, OR BY OBERHAUSEN . 

Railway .—Amsterdam to Utrecht 22 
m.; trains 10 times a day, in 1 hr.: 
to Arnhem (66 m.), 10 times a day, in 3 
hrs. Terminus at Amsterdam outside 
the Weesper gate. Rotterdam to Utrecht 
(32 m.) and Anthem (70 m.) ; trains 10 
times a day, in hr. (see Rte. 9). 
Terminus on the Oostkade. Trains 
from Rotterdam, Arnhem, and Amster¬ 
dam meet at Utrecht Junction. 

Arnhem to Nijmegen, by diligence. 
9b Eng. m. 

The immediate neighbourhood of Am¬ 
sterdam may he said to consist of an 
aggregation of polders. (§ 11.) The 
most remarkable is that called the Die- 
mer Meer, one of the deepest of those 
drained lakes in all Holland: its bottom 
lies 16 ft. below the level of the sea, 
which is sometimes augmented to 30 at 
very high tides. 

Abcoude Stat., a pretty village. 

Vreeland Stat. . 

The country through which the rail¬ 
road passes is not very interesting. 

Nieuwesluis Stat. Both sides of the old 
road and of the river Yecht, between 
this and Utrecht, are lined with villas, 
summer-houses, and gardens (§ 13), be¬ 
longing principally to merchants of 
Amsterdam. It is almost an uninter¬ 
rupted garden all the way, and the taste 
of the Dutch for horticulture is here 
seen to perfection. Several very pretty 
villages are passed. 

Breukelen Stat. 

Maarsen Stat. 

On approaching Utrecht there are 
various indications that the traveller is 
about to hid adieu to the flat land: the 


country presents partial undulations, 
and a slight current becomes perceptible 
in the canals. About 3 m. N.W. of 
| Utrecht, on the Yecht, is the old castle of 
Zuylen, the residence of Francis Borse- 
! len, to whom Jacqueline of Holland was 
married. 

25 m. Utrecht— Junction Stat. — Inns : 
II. des Pays-Bas, good ; ’T Kasteel van 
Antwerpen (Castle of Antwerp), (com¬ 
mercial), on the Oude Gracht, good; 
Bellevue. Utrecht, called by the Ro¬ 
mans Trajectum ad Rhenum (ford on 
the Rhine), and in monkish Latin Ultra 
Trajectum, whence comes its modern 
name, is situated at the bifurcation 
of the branch of the Rhino called the 
Old Rhine, and the Yecht. It con¬ 
tains about 57,300 Inhab. (20,000 
Roman Catholics). There is a con¬ 
siderable descent from the houses to the 
surface of the river — a circumstance 
which distinguishes this from other 
Dutch towns already described ; the 
cellars under the quays by the water¬ 
side are inhabited, and are large 
enough to serve as storehouses and 
manufactories, their roofs forming the 
pavement of the street above. Before 
a great inundation, which occurred 839, 
the main stream of the Rhine, which 
was then turned into the Lek, flowed 
past Utrecht. 

The Treaty of Utrecht (1713), which 
gave peace to Europe by ending the 
war of the Spanish Succession, was 
signed at the residence of John Robin¬ 
son, Bp. of Oxford, the British 
Minister, in a house now pulled down 
and replaced by a barrack called 
Willems-kazern. Many of the prelimi¬ 
nary conferences were held in a hack 
room of the old Stadhuis, still remain¬ 
ing. The act of confederation (1579), 
which formed the foundation of the 
freedom of Holland, and which declared 
the Seven United Provinces independent 
of Spain, was signed in the Public Hall 
(auditorium) of the University. An in¬ 
scription intended for it ran thus: Atrium 
sapienticc , incunabula libertatis. 

It contains 3 cathedrals and 23 
[ churches. 

The tower of the Cathedral , St. Martin , 
321 ft. high, 70 ft. square at the base 
(h. 1382), detached from the main 









UNIVERSITY. 


71 


Holland, route 5.—utrecht. 

building, of brick below, topped by a 
light openwork, octagon, lanthorn, 
deserves to be ascended on account 
of the view from it, extending over 
almost all Holland, a part of Gueldres 
and North Brabant, and comprehending 
Hertogenbosch, Rotterdam, Oudewater, 
Montfort, Amsterdam, the Zuider Zee, 
Amersfort, Rheenen, Breda, Gertruiden- 
burg, Gouda, and the Lek. Midway in 
the steeple is the dwelling of the sexton, 
or koster. The nave of the church was 
thrown down by a storm in 1674, when 
the wind carried off the roof and twisted 
the solid stone pillars like willow wands; 
the ch. was thus cut in half by the hurri¬ 
cane, and the public street’no w passes over 
its site. The lofty choir, 105 ft. high, 
is a fragment of a noble Gothic edifice 
(built 1251-67), the finest in Holland; 
it has suffered much from fanatic icono¬ 
clasts and from modem pewing in the 
conventicle style, which hides its beau¬ 
tiful clustered Gothic pillars, of great 
height and lightness. They, too, have 
been sadly cut away to admit the upper 
seats, which are arranged like those of a 
lecture theatre. The E. apse is sur¬ 
rounded by 7 chapels. In this ch. are 
monuments to St. Boniface (?), to Bp. 
Egmont, 1549, and to Admiral van 
Gent, who fell in the fight of Solebay, 
1672, by Ver Ilulst , also a very large 
and fine organ. The crypt is spacious, 
and the cloisters deserve notice. 

The first Bp. of Utrecht was St. 
Willebrod, an Englishman, who left his 
own country, in the 7th cent., to con¬ 
vert the heathen Frisons, who then pos¬ 
sessed the land. He baptized many 
thousands of them; and the Pope or¬ 
dained him bishop over them; while 
Charles Martel presented to him the 
castle of Utrecht for his residence and 
the surrounding district for his see. 

The University , close to the Cathedral, 
founded in 1636, has about 450 students; 
and, as many of the Dutch aristocracy 
reside at Utrecht, the greater number of 
pupils are of the upper classes. There 
are collections of anatomy, natural his¬ 
tory, minerals, &c., belonging to it. In 
the Stadhuis, built 1830, are a few very 
old pictures from suppressed convents, 
curious rather than beautiful—the best 
are by Schoreel. 


CATHEDRAL. 

The Mint of Holland is situated here ; 
strangers are admitted on application to 
the director; a small fee (50 cents.) is 
expected. The National Observatory is 
in Utrecht. 

Adrian Floriszoon, afterwards Pope 
Adrian VI., the tutor of Charles V., 
was born at Utrecht, in a house still 
standing on the Oudc Gracht: a house 
built by him still goes by the name of 
the Pope’s house ( Pans huizen ), and now 
serves as the Government-house of the 
province. 

The transformation of the ramparts 
into Boulevards, so as to render them 
an agreeable promenade, has been a real 
; improvement. 

The Mall , called Maliebaan, is an 
! avenue of 6 rows of lime-trees, half a 
mile in length on the E. side of the city. 
It is one of' the finest in Europe, and 
was saved from being cut down by the 
express command of Louis XIV., at a 
time when his army spared nothing else 
in Holland. The game of Pall Mall is 
still kept up. 

The Roman Catholic Cathedral (St. 
Catherine) is of good 14th centy. 
Gothic, with a metal spire over the 
crossing. It is stone vaulted, and the 
interior is painted throughout in good 
taste. The stalls and Bp’s. Throne are 
finely carved. 

Utrecht is the head-quarters of the 
Jansenists, a sect of dissenters from the 
Roman Catholic church, who object 
to the bull of Pope Alexander VII.. con¬ 
demning as heretical certain doctrines of 
Jansenius Bishop of Ypres. They scarcely 
exist in any number, except in Holland, 
where they are now reduced to 5000. 
Utrecht is the see of their archbishop. 

Medical men will take an interest in 
the large collection of anatomical pre¬ 
parations, wax figures, &c., in the Uni¬ 
versity Museum , as it is one of the finest 
of the kind in Europe. 

Railway to Rotterdam, Amsterdam, 
Arnhem and Germany; to Zutphen, 
Salzbergen, Hanover, and Berlin 
(Rte. 9.) to Kuilenburg and Hertogen¬ 
bosch (Rte. 13). 

The Railway (If hr., 38 m., Utrecht 
to Arnhem) proceeds for a considerable 
distance through a country abounding 









72 


ROUTE 5. —ZEIST. ARNHEM. NIJMEGEN. 


Sect. I. 


in wood. Many fine forest-trees are seen 
here, and scarcely anywhere else in 
Holland. The canal connecting Utrecht 
with the Lek is crossed by the Ely. 

Driebergen Stat.—About 3 m. HAY. 
of this is Zeist (6 m. from Utrecht), re¬ 
markable for a Moravian colony settled 
in it, Avhich deserves to he visited. The 
whole establishment is distinguished for 
the order and neatness maintained in it, 
and is supported by the manufactures 
of the brothers and sisters. Hear this 
the dykes were broken through by the 
ice-hurst, March, 1854, in breaches 
more than a mile wide, and part of the 
rly. was laid under water. On the H. 
of the road, near Zeist, is a mound of 
earth, erected in 32 days by the French 
army of 30,000 men, under Marmont, 
on the occasion of Hapoleon being made 
emperor. The other stations are Maars- 
bergen, Yeenendaal, Ede, Wolfhezen. 

Arnhem Stat.—Inns : The Sun (De 
Zon), very comfortable ; prettily situ¬ 
ated, near the river, the railway, and 
the steamer; Hew Bellevue Hotel, fine 
view; Cour de Hollande; Hotel des 
Pays Bas. 

Arnhem, chief town of Guelderland, 
on the rt. bank of the Rhine, 3 m. below 
the point where the IJssel branches off 
fromit,has 28,872 Inhab.,half Rom. Ca¬ 
tholics. It was fortified by Coehorn, but 
the ramparts are now turned into walks. 
Sir Philip Sydney died here, Oct. 1586, of 
the wound received in battle near Zut- 
phen: his wife had come over to soothe 
his dying hour. 

The Groote Kerb , chiefly of brick, 
has a tall \V. tower. It is lofty, 
vaulted in wood, and ends in an E. 
apse with aisles. The S. porch has 
good Gothic work of 14th centy. 
It contains the fine monument of 
Charles d’Egmont Duke of Gueldres, 
1513, altar-tomb with effigy, while 
in a frame fixed against the H. wall 
of the choir, is the armour which 
he wore. The II. de Ville is called 
the Devil's House , from the sculptured 
masques and caryatids which adorn its 
front. 

St. Walburg Roman Catholic Church 
has a plain Romanesque W. front, and 
contains a modern pulpit designed by 
Cuypers. The neighbourhood of Arn¬ 


hem abounds in villas, parks, and 
gardens, the finest being that of tho 
Baron van Heekeren, Hartjesberg —the 
entrance close to the railway station. The 
pleasiu'e-grounds and park are fine, and 
the view from the Belvedere tower strik¬ 
ing. Farther off, near the village of Y elp 
(4 m. E. of Arnhem), are several fine 
country seats, Biljoen, Beekhuisen, 
Roozendaal, Middacht, Riddcroord, Ac., 
to the gardens of which the public are 
allowed admittance. The finest view of 
Arnhem and the surrounding country is 
from the grounds of the country seat of 
the Baron van Brakell. Many of the 
grounds of the country seats are open ; 
but some have notices—only in Dutch 
-of man-traps and spring-guns. This 
part of Guelderland may, indeed, be 
tenned “ the Dutch paradise ; ” but its 
chief attractions, besides those which it 


derives from art, are, the abundance 


, j(Rte. 35) to Cologne. 


Excursion from Arnhem to Nijmegen. 




and purity of its flowing streams, to 
which the native of other provinces of 
Holland is a stranger, and the beauty 
of the trees. 

Railways (a) rt. bank of Rhine to 
Emmerich, Oberhausen, Minden, Dus- 
seldorf, Cologne, and all parts of Ger¬ 
many. (Rte. 34.) (b) L. bank of 

the Rhine shorter, by Cleves: diverges 
from the Oberhausen (rt. bank) line at 
Zevenaar , where the train crosses the 
Rhine on a steam ferry-boat, secured to 
both banks by strong iron cables, to 

Elten Stat. 

Cleves Stat. 


Diligences 4 times a day to Hijmegen 
(1^ hr.). The road to Hijmegen crosses 
the Rhine by a floating bridge, and tra¬ 
verses the district called the island of 
Betuwe (see Rte. 12), passing through 
the villages of Elden and Elst. At 
Lent, a small village on the Waal, with 
a tolerable inn, opposite Hijmegen, a 
flying bridge conveys carriage and 
passengers across the Waal to— 

2 Hijmegen. (Germ. Himwegen). 
—Inns (none good, and all dear): 
Ville de Frankfort; Plaats Royal; 
Rotterdamcr Wagen, near the Quai. 
Hijmegen is situated on the 1. bank of 
the Waal: it has 22,300 Inhab. The 
Romans called it JHoviomagus. It is 













Holland. route 0 . —Amsterdam to zwolle and kampen. 73 


a frontier fortress of Holland, strongly 
defended, and bnilt on the side and 
slope of a bill called tbe Hoenderberg, 
on which the Romans formed a perma¬ 
nent camp to protect their Bclgic posses¬ 
sions from inroads of the Germans. 

The Town Hall (Raadhuis), a build¬ 
ing in the style of the Renaissance 
(1554), ornamented in front with 2 
statues of German emperors, bene¬ 
factors of the town, is chiefly remark¬ 
able as the place where the Treaty of 
1678, between Louis XIV., Charles II. 
of Spain, and the States of Holland, 
was signed. It contains portraits of the 
ambassadors upon this occasion, and a 
few Roman antiquities, dug up in the 
neighbourhood, where the ground is 
constantly disclosing similar relics of 
the Roman settlement here. The sword 
with which the Counts Egmont and 
Horn were beheaded at Brussels, 1568, 
is also shown here. 

The Church of St. Stephen, begun 
1272, is an interesting Gothic building 
of brick, in the form of a Greek cross, 
and contains, in the centre of the 
ancient choir, the monument of Cathe¬ 
rine de Bourbon, wife of Adolphus of 
Egmont, Duke of Gueldres. Her effigy 
is engraved on a plate of copper, and 
upon smaller plates at the sides are 
figures of the Apostles and coats of arms. 

Upon an elevation, which for Hol¬ 
land is considerable, stood the Castle 
of * Valkenhof , commonly called het 
Hof, said to have been built by Julius 
Csesar, and inhabited by Charlemagne. 
It was demolished in 1794 by the 
French. The only parts now remaining 
are a fragment of the church and a very 
perfect Chapel or Baptistery (16-sided) 
near the brow of the hill: it is probably 
of the 12th or 13th cent. The space 
of ground adjoining it, once a part of 
the ramparts of the town, is planted with 
trees, and serves as a public walk, over¬ 
looking the river and quay.. On another 
eminence a little higher up rises the * Bel¬ 
vedere, a lofty summer-house built by 
the town, on the foundation of a tower, 
said to he part of a chateau of the Duke 
of Alva, now converted into a cafe. 
The view from its top is pleasing, com¬ 
prehending the rivers which branch off 
at the head of the Delta of the Rhine, 

[n. G.] 


viz. the Rhine, the Waal, and the (Jssel, 
with the Maas flowing on the S. 
This is the most interesting spot in 
X ijmegen, and, together with the few 
other sights, may he seen in two hours. 
The views from Berg-en-dal , Beek , and 
Uphergen , in the neighbourhood, will also 
leave agreeable impressions. 

Nijmegen remained long in the hands 
of the Spaniards. A hold attempt made 
in 1589 by Martin Schenk van Nijdek, 
a Guelderland nobleman, to surprise the 
town, failed, and he was drowned. His 
body, when found by the Spaniards, 
was quartered and hung in chains to 
the principal gates, hut was afterwards 
interred in the Great Church by P. 
Maurice. One of these chains is pre¬ 
served in the town hall. 

In 1672, Marlborough, then Captain, 
Churchill of the grenadiers serving 
under Turenne at the siege of Nijmegen, 
attracting that great general’s praise by 
his bravery, was called by him the 
handsome Englishman. 

Diligences , 4 times a day, in 2 hrs., 
to Amhem (meeting the railway train s 
to Utrecht and Amsterdam) ; Rail¬ 
way to Cleves by Groesbeck and Craen- 
enberg and Cologne. 

[,Steamers to Cologne (see Rte. 34) and 
down the Rhine (Rte. 11) to Rotter¬ 
dam in 7 hrs. daily; ascending in 10.] 


ROUTE 6. 

AMSTERDAM (OR ROTTERDAM) TO 
ZWOLLE AND KAMPEN, BY UTRECHT 
AND AMERSFOORT. 

Bail —Amsterdam to Utrecht, in Rte. 
5, Centraal Spoorweg. 

Soest Stat. (Pop. 3300). Omnibus 
to Soestdyk , the summer residence 
of Prince Henry of the Netherlands, 

E 



74 


ROUTE 6.—AMSTERDAM TO ZWOLLE AND KAMPEN. 


Sect. I. 


presented by the States of the Nether¬ 
lands to the late King, William II., 
when Prince of Orange, in recogni¬ 
tion of his skilful generalship at the 
battle of Quatre-bras. The mansion 
is an extensive whitewashed building, 
with no pretension to architectural 
display, but it is comfortably and 
luxuriously furnished, very prettily 
situated, and encircled by a wood many 
miles in extent. It contains several 
valuable paintings, &c., and may be 
viewed when the Prince is not in re¬ 
sidence. Immediately opposite this 
mansion is a splendid avenue of beech- 
trees ; at the bottom of this is a 
handsome obelisk erected by the nation 
in “ grateful memory " of the achieve¬ 
ments of the valiant Prince of Orange. 
Within the railed area are 2 cannons 
taken by the Dutch from the French 
at the battle of Quatre-bras. This 
pretty village is much resorted to on 
line summer afternoons by tea and 
other parties. There is an Inn (with 
very inferior sleeping accommodation) 
with a garden where visitors can obtain 
usual refreshments. By a characteris¬ 
tically pretty walk of 3 m. through 
the wood of the same name we reach 
the village of Baarn (Pop. 2500), the 
summer abode of many of the wealthier 
inhabitants of Amsterdam and Utrecht. 
The houses, almost all of which are of 
modern erection, are elegantly com¬ 
fortable mansions, and surrounded by 
gardens such as the Dutch love to 
cultivate. Two of them attract great 
attention, and are certainly more worthy 
of it than are the childish absurdities of 
Broek “ peculiarities.” These are hand¬ 
some Chinese villas, and are respectively 
called Pehin and Canton. There is a 
good Inn in the village. 

Amersfoort Stat. —{Inn: Utrechtsche 
Wapen) 12,700 Inhab., on the Eem— 
is noted as the birthplace of John Olden 
Barneveld, Grand Pensionary of Hol¬ 
land. The college for the education of 
Jansenist priests (see Utrecht) is esta¬ 
blished here. There are manufactures 
of bombazeen here, and much tobacco 
is cultivated and dried in the neigh¬ 
bourhood. 

Hardewijk Stat. (Pop. 5000). Here 
are the head-quarters and training- 


schools for recruits for the Dutch East 
Indian Service, an unruly and violent 
class of youths. 

Hattem Stat., an uninteresting and 
sleepy country town. 

Zwolle Junct. Stat. {Inns: Keizcrsk- 
roon;—Heerenlogement), the capital of 
Overijssel, a prosperous commercial 
town of 20,331 Inhab., remarkable for 
its cleanliness, situated on a small 
stream called the Zwarte Water. The 
entrance from Deventer, through an 
old gateway with peaked turrets, is 
picturesque. There are good streets and 
spacious places. The reformed Ch. of 
St. Michael , a Gothic edifice with aisles 
as high as nave, contains a handsome 
carved pulpit (1625). Fine organ. The 
gardens and walks about the town are 
very agreeable. A convent, which once 
stood on the hill of St. Agnes, 3 m. dis¬ 
tant, was the residence, for 64 years, 
of Thomas a Kempis, whose work on 
the ‘ Imitation of Christ * is translated 
into almost every living language. He 
died here in 1471. The hill is now 
a cemetery , where the richer classes are 
buried: no graves can be dug on the 
low ground without coming to water. 
G. Terburg, the painter, was bom at 
Zwolle, 1608. On the canals may be 
seen barges filled with rushes—many 
persons live by platting them into 
baskets and mats. Rail to Deventer 
and Zutphen. (Rte. 9.) 

Kampcn Stat. {Inns: Hotel des Pays- 
Bas; the Dom Van Keulen. This seaport 
on the Zuider Zee lies at the mouth of 
the IJssel, here crossed by a fine bridge. 
It has 15,400 Inhab. Anciently one of 
the most flourishing Hanse Towns, it 
still enjoys considerable commerce. The 
Town-hall , a Gothic building, with 
statues of Charlemagne, Alexander, 
and of the Cardinal Virtues, and 2 fine 
Churches, bespeak its former prosperity. 
Count Horn, beheaded by Alva, was 
buried here. 

This is the only city in this heavily 
taxed country whose citizens live tax- 
free, the wealth of the municipality, 
the accumulations of past centuries of 
prosperity, rendering taxes unnecessary. 
Kampen, like our Channel Islands, is 
consequently inhabited by numbers of 
small capitalists and pensioned officials, 



Holland. 


75 


ROUTE 7. -AMSTERDAM TO GRONINGEN, ETC. 


whose object is to make a little money 
go a long way. 

The traveller may here vary his 
journey by taking the daily steamers 
over the Zuider-zee to Amsterdam. 


ROUTE 7. 

AMSTERDAM TO HARLINGEN, LEEUWAR¬ 
DEN, GRONINGEN, ASSEN, MEPPEL, 

AND ZWOLLE—PAUPER COLONIES OF 

FREDERIKSOORD. 

Steamers from Amsterdam, from the 
Nieuwe Stads Herberg, every morning 
touching at Enkhuizen (see Rte. 4), in 
6 ^ hrs. to 

Harlingen Stat. ( Inn: Heerenloge- 
ment), a small but busy shipping place 
on the Zuider Zee, whence a large pro¬ 
portion of Friesland agricultural pro¬ 
duce (butter, &c.) is exported to 
England. Pop. 10,000. 

It stands on the site of a town 
swallowed up by the sea in 1134, and 
is itself protected by one of the largest 
dykes in Holland, 40 ft. high, fenced in 
at its base with 3 rows of piles driven 
into the ground. The monument 
erected by the Dutch to the Spanish 
Governor Robles, who first introduced 
(1570) an improved method of con¬ 
structing these sea-walls, still exists S. 
of the town; gratitude for the benefits 
conferred having proved stronger than 
national hatred against a Spaniard. 

Steamers to London 2 or 3 times a 
week ; to Amsterdam daily. 

Ely. 5 times a day, in an hour to 
Leeuwarden by 

Franeker Stat. {Inn: Heerenloge- 
ment): had a University , suppressed by 
Napoleon I., 1810, of which Vitringa, 
Heineccius, Hemsterhuis, Yalckenaer, 
&c., were professors. 

Leeuwarden Stat. {Inns, Nieuwc 
Doelen, very good; Phoenix, good), 
chief town of the province of Fries¬ 
land, with a population of 25,000 
souls. The fortifications are turned 
into plantations. Leeuwarden possesses 


a large and handsome Townhouse, and 
an interesting Museum of Frisian an¬ 
tiquities. The facade of the House of 
Correction, with the date MD., is a rich 
specimen of mixed brick and stone work, 
with 7 statues representing Virtues, &c., 
upon the steps of the quaint gable. 
Just within the Harlingen gate stands 
a fine old leaning church tower, of red 
bricks and grey stone: the body of 
the church was destroyed by a 
storm. From the top of the tower is a 
fine view over the rich pastures of 
Friesland to Harlingen. 

No province of Holland has pre¬ 
served, to the same extent, its ancient 
manners and costumes as that of Fries¬ 
land. The head-dress of the women, 
the gold hoops and pendants, and the 
beautiful lace caps, are especially de¬ 
serving of remark. Such a head-dress 
sometimes costs 2000 guilders. These 
costumes may be seen in perfection at 
Leeuwarden on market-day (Friday). 
The women are celebrated for beauty. 
Many of the towns, villages, and even 
farmhouses, and all the old churches, 
are built on mounds (teepen) raised above 
the surface, which originally afforded 
refuge to the inhabitants from inun¬ 
dation, before the country was properly 
dyked. The Frieslanders pride them¬ 
selves on having been from the earliest 
times a free and independent 'people, 
governed by laws of their own, enacted 
at their legislative assemblies dining 
the middle ages. Frisic is still the 
language of the inhabitants of Heligo¬ 
land and the belt of islands that extends 
along the coast from the Zuider Zee to 
Jutland, and is also spoken in some 
villages and districts of E. and W. 
Friesland and Sleswick. 

Railway Stations at Hardegarijp, 
Veenwoude Beutenpost, Grijpskerk, 
Vierverlaten. 

Groningen {Inns: Doelen; Nieuwe 
Munster: both good), a fortified town 
(by Coehorn) and prosperous seaport, 
very regularly built, at the junction of 
the Hunse and Aa; the most important 
in the N. provinces of Holland. 33,300 
Inhab. It has considerable commerce 
and trade in grain, &c. 

The University , founded in 1615, is 
frequented by about 300 students, and 

E 2 



76. 


ROUTE 7.-— ASSEN. ROUTE 7A.-—MErPEL, 


Sect. I. 


has an excellent museum of natural 
history. The finest buildings are the 
great Church of St. Martin , a handsome 
pointed Gothic structure, grand and lofty 
choir, noble tower like that of Utrecht 
1627); and the Hotel de Ville, modern 
1810), faced with Portland stone; both 
situated in the Breede Marht , one of 
the grandest squares in Holland. On 
the Oxenmarkt is the monument of 
Guyot, the founder of an institution 
for the deaf and dumb, which is still 
flourishing. 

By means of a canalized creek called 
Beid-diep, large vessels come up from 
the sea to the town. 

Railway to Winschoten and Nieuwe- 
schanz. Diligences 3 times a day to 

Assen {Inn, Golden Boemer), a 
town of only 5000 Inliab., though 
the chief place in the province of 
Drenthe. Near Assen, at Bolde and 
Zuidlaren, occur examples of those 
very singular sepulchres of an an¬ 
cient people, commonly called Hunne- 
bedden: they are usually large stones 
placed upright in the ground, in rows, 
surrounded by circles of smaller stones, 
or covered by others laid across, and 
open at the end; some are 80 feet long. 
Urns, hatchets, hammers, and other 
articles of wood and stone, but none of 
metal, have been found in them. 

Diligences twice day to Meppcl 
(Rte. 7 a). 


ROUTE 7a. 

AMSTERDAM TO ZWOLLE AND LEEU- 
WARDEN BY MEPPEL. THE PAUPER 
COLONIES. 

Trains daily in 10 hours. 

Amsterdam to Zwolle (see Rte 6). 
JJulfscn Stat. 

Dedemsvaart Stat. 

Meppel Stat. {Inn: Heerenloge- 
ment), a town of 6900 Inhab. 
Nijenveen Stat. 


Steenv.ijk Stat. 

[About 3 m. from Steenwijk, are 
the Pauper Agricultural Colonies of 
Frederiksoord and Willemsoord. 
There is a tolerable inn on the spot. 
Pop. 6700. 

The great increase of mendicity in 
Holland after the years of scarcity 1816 
and 1817, led to the formation of a So¬ 
ciety of Charity (Maatschappij van Wel- 
dadigheid), for the purpose of rescuing 
from beggary able-bodied labourers and 
their families, by settling them on waste 
lands, employing them in rendering these 
wastes productive, and by educating 
their children. The society was esta¬ 
blished at the Hague, which is still 
the seat of the direction, under the 
patronage of the King, and under Prince 
Frederick as President. In a short time 
more than 20,000 subscribers were en¬ 
rolled, who contributed ifi all 70,000 fl. 
(about 5850/.) With these funds and 
other resources the society commenced 
operations by the purchase of 3000 
acres on the borders of Drenthe and 
Overijssel, a small part arable land, the 
rest barren heath, upon which were 
founded in 1818 the Free Colonies of 
Frederiksoord, Wilhelms, and Wilhel- 
minasoord. Roads were constructed 
to the estate, and the river Aa, which 
flows past it, was rendered navigable to 
the Zuider Zee. The estate was then 
divided into lots of 7f 5 acres, each of 
which was calculated to be able to sup¬ 
port a family of 6 persons—father, 
mother, and 4 children — who were 
offered a well-built house, a milch 
cow, free schooling for their children, 
and medical aid gratis, in return for a 
payment of 1700 guilders (141/. 13s. 4c/.), 
to be advanced by the parish, almshouse, 
or individual relieved of the pauper 
family. This sum, whose payment 
might be spread over 16 years, was in¬ 
tended to defray the cost of house, im¬ 
plements, and furniture, and the main¬ 
tenance of the family until the land 
should be brought into condition to 
maintain them, after which it was ex¬ 
pected they would be able to pay the 
society a small rent, equal to the in¬ 
terest of the capital expended. The i 
population averages 2542 persons, or 
425 families, each occupying a separate 





Holland. route 7a.—willemsoord : pekal colonies. * 77 


house. The able-bodied men and women 
are employed in agricultural labour; 
those unfitted for such work, including 
children above 13, are employed in 
weaving; and the cloth produced by 
400 looms, situated in 4 factories and in 
private houses, defrays, by its sale, part 
of the expenses of the colony, producing 
nearly 20,000/. a-year. The result of 
this benevolent experiment, as far as 
regards making the colony self-maintain¬ 
ing, has not been successful. Out of 
the whole number of colonists not more 
than from 16 to 20 at one time have 
freed themselves from debt to the so¬ 
ciety, and are able to pay the small rent 
demanded of 50 guilders (4/. 3s. 4c/.). 
This is the more remarkable, because on 
farms immediately contiguous to the 
colony—of equally barren land—there 
are peasants who pay their landlords 
rents of 70 and 80 florins, without 
the advantages of the colonists, and 
yet succeed. The reason is that the 
colonists have no self-reliance. The 
certainty that the society will main¬ 
tain them blunts their exertions, leaves 
them in arrear, while the cotters outside 
the colony pay rent and prosper. The 
idle are compelled to work, or, if they 
refuse, are sent off to the penal colony 
of Ommerschans. The children are in¬ 
structed in the schools, where they 
are kept entirely until they are 12 
years old, or, if backward, 13; they 
then commence work at weaving or 
out-of-door work, &c., until they reach 
20 to 23 years of age, when they are 
desired to provide for themselves. There 
are places of worship for Lutherans, 
Catholics, and Jews. The education of 
the children is intrusted to the care 
of the managers. 

The houses are built with bricks 
formed from the clay dug on the spot, 
cemented with lime produced from shells 
brought from the sea-shore, and burnt 
with turf found on the land. The 
houses are built at intervals along the 
side of broad roads crossing each other 
at right angles, and are all on one plan, 
and are well adapted for the comforts 
of a family. They are thatched with 
reeds, which are said to be more durable 
than straw or heather, lasting from 20 
to 30 years. The general aspect of the 


colony is pleasing and thriving; the 
land is brought under good tillage, and 
forms a sort of oasis in the desert. 

Besides these two free colonies, two 
others, having much the character of 
Penal Colonies, have been established 
—one at Veenhuizen, 15 m. from Fre- 
deriksoord and 9 from Assen, but 
situated on the same uninterrupted 
heath. One establishment here is de¬ 
voted to the reception of orphans and 
foundlings from the different asylums 
in the towns of Holland, for whose 
maintenance the government pays to 
the society a stated sum annually. In 
other respects it is a mendicity colony. 
It corresponds nearly in its character, 
arrangements, and discipline with that 
of Ommerschans , a few miles from Mep- 
pel. This was a dilapidated fortress, 
situated also in the midst of a heath. 
It serves as a penitentiary for refractory 
free colonists, and for the amendment 
of beggars and idle persons, but not 
criminals, sent by their parishes or the 
government for a certain number of 
years, to reform idle habits. They are 
compelled to work either as field la¬ 
bourers or in the workshops. Punish¬ 
ments of various kinds are inflicted on 
the refractoiy. A value is put on their 
daily work, and they receive a certain 
portion for themselves. The colony is 
not self-supporting. The number of 
detenus in Ommerschans and Veenhuizen 
amounts to about4520, including women 
and children. Their escape is pre¬ 
vented partly by a canal which sur¬ 
rounds the building, partly by a cordon 
of watchmen established in 25 cottages 
built in a circle, at the distance of 
5 minutes’ walk from one another. 

The experiment has been tried now 
for 30 years, and though, in point of 
profit, it has not realized the sanguine 
expectations of its projectors, nor is 
likely to do so, yet it has succeeded in 
the benevolent object at which it aimed, 
by rescuing many hundred individuals 
and families, previously paupers and 
friendless, from vice and destitution, 
making them useful members of society; 
and in rendering fertile and profitable 
large tracts of land previously desert 
and useless. The expenses of these co¬ 
lonies have indeed lr • ■e so great a 







78 7A.—MEPPLE TO LEEUWARDEN. 

burden, that the government has been 
seriously contemplating their abolition, 
and is only withheld from such a step 
by not knowing how to provide for 
the persons supported on them. It has 
been calculated by Sir John McNeil 
that each pauper costs the Dutch go¬ 
vernment 6/. 13s. 4c?., while in Great 
Britain each pauper costs the state less 
than hi. per annum. Moreover the 
Dutch society is in debt, and its estates 
would not suffice to clear it. It is, 
therefore, evident that the pauper co¬ 
lonies cannot compare in utility or suc¬ 
cess with the Poor Law system of our 
own country. 

The founder and originator of these 
institutions was the late General Van 
den Bosch, who was the first di¬ 
rector. While serving in the Dutch 
colonies in the East, he purchased an 
estate in the island of Java, and devoted 
much of his time to improvements in 
agriculture. It did not long escape his 
observation that the estate of a native 
mandarin, which lay next to his own, 
and resembled it in soil and situation, 
never failed, in spite of all the pains he 
took with his own land, to produce 
far finer crops. This induced him to 
form an acquaintance with his neigh¬ 
bour, from whom he learnt a system 
which proved so beneficial, that the 
estate, which he purchased in Java for 
25,000 rix dollars, fetched 150,000 when 
sold, on his departure from the country. 
The secret of the mandarin’s luxuriant 
crop appears to have been the attention 
he paid to obtaining a good stock of 
manure for his land; to this the efforts 
of the colonists are studiously directed.] 

The Ely. to Leeuwarden — from Steen- 
wijk. 

Peperga.—W alferga. 

Ileerenveen. —Akkoum. 

Grouw.—Idaard. 

Roordshuizen. 

Leeuwarden Stat. in Rte. 7. 


8.-GRONINGEN TO EMBDEN. 


ROUTE 8. 

GRONINGEN TO EMDEN, LEER, AND 
RHEINE. 

On this route the traveller can vary 
the monotony of his diligence journey 
by taking the steamer, barge, or Trek- 
schuit (here called snikken ) to Apping- 
adam (Pop. 4000), a flourishing little 
town, but possessing little interest for 
the passing traveller; thence he can 
proceed, by similar conveyance, to 

Delfzijl, a fortified port, of 1800 
Inhab., on the Ems (Inn, De Beurs). 
Here there are steamers daily that cross 
the Dollart in about 1J hr. to Emden. 

Emden Stat. (Inn, The White House), 
a fortified town, capital of the Hano¬ 
verian province of E. Friesland, con¬ 
tains about 12,500 Inhab. It has the 
most extensive trade in oats of any 
port in Europe. It lies in a marshy 
situation; but the land around it is of 
great fertility, yielding, besides oats, 
much butter and cheese. In the Rath- 
haus, a building in Renaissance style, 
1576, is a collection of ancient arms 
and armour, especially rich in early 
fire-arms—part of the spoils, it is said, 
of Count Ernst of Mansfeld, captured 
in a vessel freighted for England w r ith 
the booty of the Thirty Years’ war. 
The town lies below the level of the 
Ems, and is defended against it by 
strong dykes, notwithstanding which 
it has suffered from repeated inunda¬ 
tions. A canal between strong dykes 
connects Embden with the deep water 
of the Dollart, and protects the town 
by a high and strong embankment 
against the incursions of this estuary. 
In 1826 the water stood in the 
streets for 3 months up to the first 
floor of the houses. On the ramparts 
were buried many thousand British 
officers and soldiers who died here from 
the sufferings they endured in the re¬ 
treat of the Duke of York’s army from 
Holland, in the dreadful winter of 
1795. The relics of that force, and 
among them Arthur Wellesley, em¬ 
barked here. 


Stats. 













Holland. 


ROUTE 9. —ARNHEM TO ZUTPHEN AND ZWOLLE. 79 


Backhuisen and Moucheron, painters, 
were born here. 

Steamers to Delfzyl in Groningen 
every day during the bathing season. 

A Railway , opened 1856, to Leer and 
ltheine, where it joins the lines to 
Osnabriick and in 6 hrs. to Munster. 
(Rte. 69). 

Leer Stat. ( Inn : Prinz v. Oranjen), a 
town of 7000 Inhab., with a considerable 
trade to England in agricultural pro¬ 
duce. Between Leer and Oldenburg, in 
the middle of the swamp, is a little pri¬ 
mitive district called Saterland, where 
the old Frisian language is still spoken. 
Travellers bound for Oldenburg and Bre¬ 
men may proceed on at once by dili¬ 
gence from Leer to Oldenburg, a jour¬ 
ney of 8 or 9 hrs. Steamers proceed 
up the Ems beyond Leer. 

Meppen Stat. (Hotel, Biinger,) chief 
place of the mediatized Duchy of Arem- 
berg-Meppen, constituted 1802. 

Rheine Junct. Stat. Buffet. (Hotel, 
Schulze.) See Rte. 69. 


' ROUTE 9. 

ARNHEM TO ZUTPHEN, DEVENTER, AND 
ZWOLLE—RAILWAY. 

Arnhem (Rte. 5). Trains 5 times a 
day to Zutphen and Zwolle. 

Zutphen June. Stat. (Inns: Keizers 
Kroon ; Zwaan), a strong fortress and 
ancient grand-looking town, 15,400 
Inhab., at the junction of the Berckel 
with the IJssel. 

The chief Protestant Church (of St. 
Walburga) is a very fine Gothic building 
(1105) ; its great tower has been rebuilt 
since 1600, when the original one was 
destroyed by lightning. Within are mo¬ 
numents of the Counts of Zutphen, over 
one of which is hung a Gothic chan¬ 
delier of iron gilt, and a modern monu¬ 
ment to the family Van Heekeren. 
There is a Gothic font of copper, and 
the bas-reliefs on the pulpit merit 
notice. In the church is a library of 
old books, many of them fastened to 
the shelves by chains. 


The Roman Catholics and the Ana¬ 
baptists have churches here. 

The Chimes are placed in the tower 
of the Wijn Huis: there is another 
large square tower called Drogenass. 

It was on the battle-field of Wams- 
fcld, a little to the E. of Zutphen, that 
the gallant Sir Philip Sidney received 
his death-wound, Sept. 22, 1586, after 
an action in which the English had sig¬ 
nally defeated the veteran Spaniards 
under the Marquess of Guasto. Stretched 
on the ground, bleeding and parched 
with thirst, the English hero displayed 
the well-known instance of humanity, 
in desiring that the cup of water in¬ 
tended for him should be given to the 
dying soldier at his side. 

A Steamer goes every day to Am¬ 
sterdam, in summer. 

Railway to Salzbergen (Rte. 10), the 
shortest way from London to Berlin. 

Near Zutphen is the Dutch Mettray, 
for the discipline of young vagabonds. 

Yelp Stat. A pretty village (3000 
Pop.) much resorted to as a summer 
residence by the wealthier classes. 
Here the traveller may spend a very 
pleasant day of rest, and will find him¬ 
self supplied with all the conveniences 
of good hotels. 

Steeg. J 

Dieren. > Stats. 

Brummen. ) 

Deventer Stat. 

Deventer {Inns; Moriaan (Moor), 
Nieuwe Keizers Kroon; Engel; 
’t Wapen van Overijssel), a thriving 
town on the bank of the IJssel, 17,521 
Inhab., and a considerable iron-foundry 
and carpet manufactory. The Church 
of St. Luben is a vast and interesting 
edifice, in the early Gothic style, 
having 3 aisles of equal height, sur¬ 
mounted by a handsome W. tower; it 
has a Romanesque crypt, with twisted and 
channeled piers ; it contains some good 
painted glass. In the Town-hall is a 
picture by G. Terburg , representing the 
Town Council assembled. The English 
forces under the Earl of Leicester gained 
possession of Deventer in 1586. The 
Berg Kerk retains many cannon- balls, re¬ 
lics of that siege. Col.Wm. Stanley, who 
was appointed governor, treacherously 



80 


ROUTE 10.—ROTTERDAM TO UTRECHT, ETC. 


Sect. 1. 


yielded it to the Duke of Parma in 
1587, taking over with him his regi¬ 
ment of 1300 men, believing his duty 
to his country to he incompatible with 
that which he owed to the Romish 
faith! ' 

This is the native place of the phi- 
lologer, James Gixmovius ; and Erasmus 
was educated here at a school kept by 
the monks, and hence derived his hatred 
of religious brotherhoods. Deventer is 
celebrated for its gingerbread , of which 
many thousand pounds are annually ex¬ 
ported ; and with a view to keep up its 
reputation, an officer, appointed by the 
magistrates, inspects the cakes before 
they are baked, in order to ascertain 
that the dough is properly mixed. Tra¬ 
vellers should ask for the Deventer Ivoek, 
at the shop of W. J. Smies, called the 
Allemans Gading, in the Groote Kerkhof 
E., No. 1354. 

[Within a pleasant drive from De¬ 
venter is 

Appeldoorn, a pretty village. (11,300 
Inhab.) Not far from it is the Palace 
of the Zoo, the summer residence of the 
King of Holland: the gardens are ex¬ 
tensive, but flat; they contain fine 
sheets of water. It was the favourite 
retreat of William III., who repaired 
hither to hunt. There is a good Inn 
near the palace.] 

From Deventer the traveller can pro¬ 
ceed to Zwolle (Rte. 6, 7) by steamer. 

The stations on the Rly. are 

Olst, Wijhe, Windesheim. 

Zwolle Junct. Stat. in Rte. 6. 


ROUTE 10. 


ROTTERDAM (BY GOUDA) OR AMSTERDAM 
TO UTRECIIT, ARNHEM, ZUTPHEN, 
SALZBERGEN, HANOVER, AND BERLIN. 

Trains 10 times a day from Rotterdam, 
in l^r hr. to Utrecht. 

This is the shortest way from Eng¬ 
land, through Holland to North Ger¬ 
many. Trains twice a day in llj.to 
12| hours. Custom house at Bentheim. 
The fare is less than by Emmerich and 
Oberhausen. 

10 Eng. m. Gouda Stat. or Tergouw. 
Inns; Herthuis, good; Salmon (Zalm). 

A decayed town of 15,350 Inhab.; with 
a large grass-grown square. 

The large Ch. of St. John {Jans 
Kerli, fee 4 stivers)—begun 1485, but 
nearly rebuilt after a fire 1552 ; 300 ft. 
long, and 140 ft. high to the crown of 
;he wooden vault—is famous for its 
tainted glass windows, considered 
:o be nearly the finest in Europe. 
They are for the most part 30 ft. 
ligh (2 are nearly double that height), 
and finished with great attention to 
the details, but are of various degrees 
of merit. They were executed, be¬ 
tween 1560 and 1603, by 2 brothers, 
Dirk and Woxder Crabeth. One (No. 10), 
having been destroyed by a storm, was 
restored in 1655, and by its inferiority 
proves the art to have been then on the 
decline. The later windows, dating 
after the establishment of Protestantism, 
are occupied with allegories, &c., and 
are inferior to the more ancient. They 
were presents from towns or wealthy 
individuals, made on the rebuilding of 
the church 1560. Very elaborate 
drawings of them, by Christoph. Fier- 
son , are preserved in the vestry. The 
subjects of the windows are as fol¬ 
lows, beginning on the left hand on 
entering the church by the door tmder 
the steeple:—1. An allegorical repre¬ 
sentation of Liberty of Conscience. 2. 
The taking of Damietta by the Emperor 
Frederic Barbarossa in the 3rd Crusade. 
3. The Virgin of Dort. 4. Justice and 
Valour with the Arms of the Lords of 
Rhineland. 5. The Queen of Sheba 











Holland. 


8i 


ROUTE 10.—GOUDA. 


visits Solomon, by IE Crabeth. 6. 

• Siege of Bethulia: Beheading of IIo- 
lofemes, by D. Crabeth. 7. The Last 
Supper, with Queen Mary of England 
and Philip II. of Spain, the donors, 
kneeling. The upper part of this 
window was destroyed by a hailstorm. 
By D. C. 8. The Sacrilege of Helio- 
dorus, by IE. C. 9. The Angel appear¬ 
ing to Zacharias. 10. The Annuncia¬ 
tion. 11. Birth of John the Baptist. 
12. The Nativity, by IE. C. 13. Christ 
among the Doctors. 14. John the Bap¬ 
tist Preaching, by D.C. 15. The Bap¬ 
tism of Christ, by D. C. 16. Sermon on 
the Mount, by D. C. 17. John the 
Baptist rebuking Herod. 18. John the 
Baptist’s Disciples questioning Christ, 
by D.C. 19. Beheading of John the 
Baptist. 20 and 21 represent the Suf¬ 
ferings, Bcsuvrection, and Ascension of 
Christ. 22. The Money-changers driven 
from the Temple, by D. C. 23. The 
Offering of Elijah before the Priests of 
Baal, by IE. C. 24. The Angel send¬ 
ing Philip to baptize the Ethiopian, 
and Peter and John healing the Lame 
Man, by D. C. 25. The Relief of Lei¬ 
den, and Raising the Siege. 26. The 
Relief of Samaria. 27. The Pharisee 
and Publican in the Temple. 28. The 
Woman taken in Adultery. 29. Nathan 
reproving David. 30. The Whale cast¬ 
ing forth Jonah. 31. In the S. tran¬ 
sept, Balaam and his Ass. Besides these, 
there are 13 windows above the chon, 
representing Christ and his Apostles. 

The church contains, a very power¬ 
ful and sweet-toned organ, in which 
the vox lumana stop is especially fine. 

The Hotel de Ville was the residence 
of Jacqueline of Bavaria, whose part 
Was taken by the citizens dining the 
civil wars of the Hoeks and Ivabel- 
jauws (Hooks and Codfish—the nobles 
and the citizens—the names of two 
factions, like Whig and Tory with 
Us). It was of fine old red brick and 
stone, but has been whitewashed. 

There are large manufactories of 
bricks here. The clay for bricks is 
scraped up out of the bed of the IJssel, 
with a sort of hoe having a sack at¬ 
tached to it, and is particularly well 
adapted for the purpose. Tobacco-pipes 


were also made here in large quantities. 
The clay for them was brought from 
the banks of the Moselle, and the 
neighbourhood of Namur. The pipes 
are shaped in moulds of brass ; but the 
most difficult operation, the boring, is 
done by the hand, with a piece of iron 
wire blunt at the extremity, and re¬ 
quires great dexterity in the workmen. 
The trade has fallen off, owing to the 
prevalence of cigars. Very few people 
are now employed in it. 

The best cheese in Holland is a new- 
milk cheese called Gouda cheese, being 
made near this town. 

The Rhine communicates, for ship 
navigation, with the IJssel and Meuse, 
by Gouda. A ship-lock at the Gouda 
Sluis passes the vessel across the dyke 
of the Rhine into a spacious canal 
connected with the Kromme Gouda 
river. This last was made in 1281 a s 
a slaker to the Rhine. It is 9 m. 
long, and has an excellent tide-lock at 
Gouda, 153 ft. long and 25 ft. wide. 

Oudewater Stat. ) places memora- 

Woerden Stat. J ble as the scenes 
of the atrocities committed by the 
French army, under Marshal Lux¬ 
emburg, in 1672. Their cruelty, as 
described by Voltaire, is not exagge¬ 
rated : so great was the aversion which 
it inspired in the minds of the Dutch, 
who were witnesses of their' conduct, 
that descriptions of the war, called 
“ Fransche Tyranny,” were written and 
printed as school-books for their chil¬ 
dren to read, calculated to hand down 
an inheritance of hate for their enemies 
to future generations. Pop. 4300. Here 
is a large military prison. The Ram¬ 
parts are tinned into a Public Walk. 

Harmelen Stat. 

Utrecht Junction Stat. 1 

Driebergen Stat. > Rte. 5. 

Arnhem Stat. J 

Three trains daily from Arnhem to 
Salzbergen in about 3g hours. 

The Rte. to N. Germany follows the 
Rly. to Deventer, as far as 

Zutphen Junct. Stat. (Rte. 9), where 
it turns E. and crosses the Yssel. 

Hengelo Stat., Oldenzaal Stat. 

Bentheim Stat., a town of 2000 
inhab., with a Castle which Iiuysdael 

E 3 



82 


ROUTE 11.— 1 

painted, and a coid sulphur spring. 
Here is the Frontier and Custom-house 
of N. Germany. 

Salzbergen Junct. Stat. 


ROUTE 11. 

THE RHINE, A, FROM ROTTERDAM TO 
NIJMEGEN. 

Travellers, whether in search of 
amusement or pressed for time, should 
avoid the voyage up the lower part of 
the Rhine, below Cologne, because 
t here are two other very interesting 
routes from England to Cologne; one 
"by Rotterdam, Hague, Amsterdam, 
and Utrecht (Rtes. 2 and 5); the other 
by Ostend, or Antwerp, and Brussels 
(Rtes. 17, 21, and 23). The best 
way to visit the Rhine from England is 
to go by Belgium and its railways, and 
return by Holland down the Rhine. The 
Rhine below Cologne is a most uninteresting 
river , with high dykes on each side, 
which protect the flat country from in¬ 
undations and intercept all view, save 
of a few villages, church steeples, and 
farm-houses, painted of various colours, 
which are seen peering above them. 

Between Rotterdam and Nijmegen 
there is a risk of sitting on a sandbank 
for an hour or two till the tide rises, 
and there is always a detention of some 
hours at the Prussian frontier. 

Steamboats leave Rotterdam every 
morning at 5 and 10 in the summer, and 
every day in the latter part of the sea¬ 
son. They reach Nijmegen or Arnhem 
in about 10 hrs. For Fares refer to the 
printed bills of the company. 

The best and fastest steamers ascend 
in 2 days from Rotterdam to Cologne, 
stopping for the night at Emmerich. 
The steamers of the Netherlands Com¬ 
pany have glass cabins on deck, so that 
passengers in rainy weather can look 
around them under shelter. They have 
also sleeping apartments, each contain¬ 
ing 2 beds and a sofa, which can be 
hired, for the whole passage, for 6 
florins including the steward’s fee. 
Passengers unprovided with sleeping- 
berths are compelled by the police regu¬ 
lations to leave the boat, when she 


THE RHINU. Sect. I. 

stops for the night, at Emmerich 
and to sleep on shore. 

The State Cabin has the advantage 
over the first cabin, that it is private ; 
it is, therefore, often convenient to 
secure it for a party in which there 
are several ladies. 

The Railway from Rotterdam to Co¬ 
logne, by Gouda, Utrecht (Rte. 10), and 
Emmerich or Cleves, will be preferred 
by most travellers to the voyage up 
the Rhine. 

The Rhine , flowing out of Germany 
into Holland, descends in an undivided 
stream as far as the point of the Delta 
(the Insula Batavorum of the Romans). 
At a place called Pannerden it splits 
into two branches. From this division 
of its stream, Virgil applies the epithet 
bicornis to the Rhine (JEn. viii. 727). 
The left-hand branch, called the "Waal 
or Vahal, directing its course "W., passes 
Nijmegen, joins the Meuse, and, in 
conjunction with it, assumes the name 
of Merwe. The other branch, which, 
after the first separation, retains the 
name of Rhine, turns northward; a 
league above Arnhem it throws out an 
arm called IJssel, known to the ancients 
as Fossa Drusi , because it was formed 
by Drusus in the reign of Augustus : it 
falls into the Zuider Zee after passing 
Zutphen, Deventer, and Campen. The 
rWer after this continues on past Arn¬ 
hem to Wijk by Duurstede, and there 
again divides, throwing off to the 1. an 
arm called the Lek, which falls into 
the Maas a little above Rotterdam. 
The other arm, still retaining the ori¬ 
ginal name of Rhine, after this sepa¬ 
ration, divides for the last time at 
Utrecht; the offset is called the Vecht, 
and flows into the Zuider Zee. The 
old Rhine, the sole remnant of the once 
mighty river which carries its name to 
the sea, assumes the appearance of a 
canal, and, after passing sluggishly the 
town of Leiden, enters the ocean through 
the sluice-gates of Katwijk (see Rte. 2). 

a. the WAAL. 

The "Waal is the largest and most 
important of the 4 branches into which 
the Rhine divides its stream on reach¬ 
ing Holland. 












8^ 


Holland, route 11. —THE RHINE : 

On quitting Rotterdam the guard- 
ship is passed, and ( l .) Fijenoord, 
the largest engineering establishment, 
steamboat-builder’s yard, and foundry 
in Holland. Numerous country seats 
of rich Rotterdam merchants are scat¬ 
tered along the hanks. The narrow 
arm of the Maas, called Spaniard’s-Diep, 
is lined with shipyards, cottages, and 
windmills. The river Lek here falls 
into the Maas. A short distance higher 
up lies— 

l . Dort or Dordrecht St at. (Tims .- 
Bellevue, near the steamers; Goude 
Leeuw), one of the oldest towns in 
Holland, with 23,800 Inhab., and con¬ 
siderable trade, on the expanse of the 
Maas, formed by the inundation of 
1416, which separated Dort from the 
mainland. The depth of water is 
sufficient to admit deeply laden East 
Indiamen. Railway bridge over the 
Maas (see Rte 12). 

The first Assembly of the States of 
Holland, held after their revolt from 
the yoke of Spain, met at Dort in 1572, 
and declared the Prince of Orange 
Stadholder, and the only lawful Go¬ 
vernor of the country. 

In an ancient Gothic building, stand¬ 
ing in a hack street, and now degraded 
into a poor public-house, called Klove- 
niers Doelen , the famous assembly of 
Protestant divines, known as the Synod 
of Dort , was held, 1618-19. It lasted 
6 months, during which there were 
152 sittings, unprofitably occupied, for 
the most part, in discussing the incom¬ 
prehensible questions of Predestination 
and Grace. At the conclusion the pre¬ 
sident declared that “ its miraculous 
labours had made hell tremble.” The 
result of its labours was to declare the 
Calvinistic doctrines respecting predes¬ 
tination the established faith, and to 
condemn Arminius and his followers as 
heretics. The ordinances then passed 
were long the law of the Dutch national 
church. The apartment in which the 
Synod met is still preserved unaltered; 
hut is converted into a ball-room, or 
temporarily into a theatre! 

The Gothic Church (date 1339), con¬ 
spicuous at a long distance, owing to 
its tall square tower, contains carved 
stalls, L a sculptured pulpit of white 


WAAL BRANCH. DORT. 

marble (date 1756), numerous monu¬ 
ments, and some church plate of massive 
gold, presented by an East India mer¬ 
chant. 

Within this ch., in 1793, was in¬ 
terred Lieut. John Western, R.N., in 
the presence of the Duke of York ; the 
Grenadier Guards attending as firing- 
party. This young officer was killed 
at Moerdyk, March 21. 6 days pre¬ 

viously he had succeeded, while in com¬ 
mand of 3 gunboats, each containing 4 
12-pounders and 16 men, in compelling 
a French army 5000 strong to abandon 
the siege of Willemstadt, so that the 
garrison were enabled next morning to 
march out and take possession of the 
French camp, guns, and ammunition. 

The Mint, though no longer used as 
such, it having been transferred to 
Utrecht, is a building of the 15th cent. 

Dort serves as a haven for the 
gigantic rafts of wood, the produce ol 
the forests of Switzerland and the 
Schwarzwald, which are brought down 
the Rhine by crews of from 400 to 500 
men each, and are here broken up and 
sold. A single raft sometimes produces 
30,000/. A description of them will be 
found in the route from Cologne to 
Mayence. 

The brother statesmen De Witt were 
horn here; also Cuyp, Schallcen, and 
Ary Scheffer (to whom a statue was 
raised 1862), the painters; and Vossius. 

After a general survey of the town, 
which is truly Dutch in its combination 
of sluices and canals, and a visit to the 
old church, the timber-ponds where the. 
raft-wood is collected, the. windmills 
where it is sawn into planks, and the 
ship-builders’ yards, there is nothing to 
detain a traveller here. Direct railway 
communication will be opened 1872 
with Rotterdam and Moerdijk, on the 
completion of the railway bridges at 
Dort and Moerdyk, carrying railroad 
from Rotterdam to Antwerp (Rte. 12). 

Dort stands on an island formed by 
a terrible inundation in 1421, when the 
tide in the estuaiy of the Rhine, excited 
by a violent tempest, hurst through a 
dyke, overwhelming a populous and 
productive district, which it at once 
converted into a waste of waters, called 
the Biesbosch (i. e. rushwood, from 




84 


ROUTE 11.—THE RHINE. LOEVESTEIN. GROTIUS. 


Sect. I. 


bies, rush, whence the English besom), 
part of which still exists. 72 villages 
and 100,000 human beings were swal¬ 
lowed up by the waves. 35 of the vil¬ 
lages were irretrievably lost, so that no 
vestige, even of the ruins, could after¬ 
wards be discovered. The only relic 
preserved from the waters is a solitary 
tower, called the house of Merwede. 
By this inundation the number of the 
mouths of the Rhine was increased, and 
the "Waal was made double its former 
size. Many maps, as well as guide¬ 
books, represent this district as still 
under water, but a large part of it has 
been recovered; still the river here 
spreading out bears the aspect of a lake 
interspersed with numerous islands, un¬ 
inhabited, but producing hay in abun¬ 
dance. 

The country about Dort seems choked 
with water; every hollow is full, and 
the fear is excited lest, by the rising of 
the Rhine a foot, or even an inch or 
two, the whole should at once be over¬ 
whelmed by the waters. The Ablasser 
Waard, near Gorcum, lies considerably 
lower than the bottom of the bed of the 
Rhine ! There are numerous and in¬ 
tricate sandbanks between Dort and 
I rt. Gorcum , or Gorinchem (Inn , Doelen) 
(Pop. 9000), an old walled town, at the 
jimction of the Merwe and Linge, and 
one of the first places taken by the 
Water Gueux from the Spaniards in 
1572; but they sullied their victory 
with the murder of 19 Catholic priests, 
for which their commander, Lumey, 
was disgraced by the States General. 
The anniversary of the Holy Martyrs 
of Gorcum is still observed in the 
Romish calendar. The canal of Zederick 
connects Gorcum on the Merwe with 
Yianen on the Lek. Nearly opposite Gor¬ 
cum is (l.) Woudrichem, or Worcum. 

(/.) The Castle of Loevestein , situated 
on the west point of the island of Rom¬ 
mel, formed by the united streams of 
the Meuse and the Waal, was the prison 
of Grotius in 1619. The history of his 
escape in a box, March 22, 1621, gives 
an interest to the spot:—“ He beguiled 
the tedious hours of confinement by 
study, relieving his mind by varying 
its objects. Ancient and modern lite¬ 
rature equally engaged his attention. 


Sundays he wholly dedicated to prayer 
and the study of theology. He com¬ 
posed the greater part of the ‘ Jus Belli 
et Pacis’ here. 20 months of impri¬ 
sonment thus passed away. His wife 
now began to devise projects for his 
liberty. She had observed that he was 
not so strictly watched as at first—that 
the guards who examined the chest 
used for the conveyance of his books 
and linen, being accustomed to see 
nothing in it but books and linen, be¬ 
gan to examine them loosely; at length 
they permitted the chest to pass without 
any examination. Upon this she formed 
her project for her husband’s release.” 

She accommodated the chest to her 
pru-pose, by boring some holes in it to 
let in air. She intrusted her maid with 
the secret, and the chest was conveyed 
to Grotius’s apartment. She then re¬ 
vealed her project to him, and, after 
much entreaty, prevailed on him to get 
into the chest, and leave her in the 
prison. The books which Grotius bor¬ 
rowed were usually sent to Gorcum, 
and the chest which contained them 
passed in a boat from the prison at 
Loevestein to that town. 

Big with the fate of Grotius, the 
chest, as soon as he w r as enclosed in it, 
was moved into the boat, accompanied 
by the maid. One of the soldiers ob¬ 
serving that it was uncommonly heavy, 
the maid answered, “ It is the Arminian 
books which are so heavy.” The soldier 
replied, apparently in joke, “ Perhaps 
it is the Arminian himself;” and then, 
without more ado, the chest was lodged 
in the boat. The maid accompanied it 
to Gorcum, and, when fairly afloat, 
made a signal with her handkerchief to 
her mistress that all was right. The 
window where Grotius’s wife stood is 
still pointed out in Loevestein. The 
passage from Loevestein to Gorcum 
took a considerable time. At length it 
reached Gorcum, and was deposited at 
the house of J"acob Daatzelaar, an Ar¬ 
minian friend of Grotius. The maid 
flew instantly to him, and told him that 
her master was in the box; but Daat¬ 
zelaar, terrified for the consequences, 
declared he would have nothing to do 
with so dangerous a matter. Luckily 
his wife had more courage; she sent 




Holland. it. 11 .—the rhine : lek branch. schoonhoven. 85 


away the servants on different errands, 
opened the chest, and set Grotius free, 
lie declared that while he was in the 
chest, which was not more than 3§ ft. 
long, he had felt a little faintness and 
much anxiety, hut had suffered no other 
inconvenience. Having dressed him¬ 
self as a mason, with a rule and trowel, 
he went through the back door of Daat- 
zelaar’s house, accompanied by Daatze- 
laar’s wife’s brother, a mason by trade, 
along the market-place, to a boat en¬ 
gaged for the purpose. It conveyed 
them to Waalwijk, in Brabant, where 
he was safe. In the mean time every 
precaution had been taken by Madame 
de Groot to conceal her husband’s de¬ 
parture from the governor and his 
jailors. She took particular care to 
light the lamp in the room where Gro¬ 
tius was in the habit of studying ; and 
the governor, upon his return home in 
the evening, remarking the light in 
Grotius’s window, concluded that his 
prisoner was quite safe. Madame de 
Groot was not detained long in prison, 
and rejoined her husband soon after in 
Paris. There is usually a frigate in the 
Dutch navy bearing the name of Gro¬ 
tius’s wife, Marie van Bcigersberch: 
history has rescued from oblivion the 
name of the trusty maid-servant also— 
it was Elsje van Houwening. 

1. Po mm el— Inn , Hof van Guelder- 
land—once a fortress, was besieged in 
vain by the Spaniards 1599, and taken 
by Turenne 1672. Its fortifications 
were destroyed in 1629. (Pop. 3500.) 

The island of Bommel, Bommeler 
Waard, between the Waal and the 
Meuse, which here unite their waters, 
is defended on the E. by Fort St. Andre, 
and on the W. by Fort Loevestein. 

10 m. S. of Bommel lies Hcrtogen- 
bosch (Bois-le-duc). (See Ete. 13.) 

rt. Tiel (H. Bellevue), a pretty town 
of 6000 Inhab., and birthplace of Ge¬ 
neral Chasse, the defender of Antwerp 
citadel. 66 m. above Eotterdam lies— 
l. Nijmegen. Ete. 5. Eail to 
Cloves. 

Steamers daily to Arnhem, Doesburgh, 
Zwolle, and Kampen. 

Diligences daily to Arnhem and Bois- 
le-duc. (Ete. 12.) 

The voyage from Nijmegen to Co¬ 


logne by water, about 125 m., is de¬ 
scribed in Ete. 34. 

# 

b. THE LEK FROM ROTTERDAM TO 
ARNHEM. 

Steamers rarely take this course : the 
Lek is often so low as to preclude the 
passage of a steamer altogether. 
rt. Krimpen. A tall spire. 
rt. Lekkerkerk, protected against 
the waters by enormous dykes. 

1. KinderdyTc , a long row of small 
houses, with iron foundries, the crea¬ 
tion of Mr. Fop Smit, who began the 
world as a carpenter. 

rt. Schoonhoven (Thn: Heercnloge- 
ment), about 20 m. above Eotterdam, is 
famous for its salmon fisheries. 

1. Nieuwpoort, about a mile from 
Schoonhoven, opposite to it. 

rt. Yreeswijk (or de Vaart) is the 
landing-place for passengers going to 
Utrecht and Amsterdam. Omnibuses. 

1. Yianen, which is opposite to 
Yreeswijk, is said to be the Fanum 
Diance of Ptolemy. It formed part of 
the patrimony of the patriot Count of 
Brederode, who fortified it for the 
Prince of Orange on the outbreak of the 
revolt of the Netherlands. 

Between Yianen and Kuilcnburg 
there are sluices in the banks of the 
river, designed solely for laying the 
country under water in case of foreign 
invasion. If they were opened, the in¬ 
undation would at once spread as far S. 
as the Waal, as far as Dort to the W., 
and to the Noort in an opposite direc¬ 
tion. A military inundation of this 
kind is a mode of defence peculiar to 
Holland. It effectually cuts off the 
means of approach from an army either 
by land or water; it covers both roads 
and canals, leaving an enemy in igno¬ 
rance of their direction and course; 
and, while it is deep enough to check 
the march of troops or cannon, it is so 
intciTupted by shallows and dykes, as 
to render its navigation by boats equally 
impracticable. Here are 2 modern 
forts to close the passage of the river. 
There is a magnificent iron rly. Bridge 
over the Lek at Culemburg, or 

l. Kuilcnburg. Inns: Bose; Yer- 
gulde Ilooft. A town of 5000 Inhab. 




86 


ROUTE 12. —ROTTERDAM TO ANTWERP: RAIL. 


Sect. 1. 


rt. Wijkby Duurstede. A fortress— 
the Roman Batavodurum. The branch 
of the Rhine which alone retains that 
name to the sea here separates from the 
Lek, and under the name Kromme Rijn 
(winding Rhine) descends to Utrecht, 
where again dividing, it sends one 
branch, the Vecht rt. to the Zuider Zee, 
while the other, the Oude Rhin, enters 
the German Ocean after passing Leiden 
to Katwijk, where it is now discharged 
into the ocean by means of sluice-gates 
(Rte. 2.). The Lek was originally a 
canal dug by the Romans to unite the 
Rhine and Maas; its bed became sud¬ 
denly enlarged by an inundation in 839, 
by which the main stream was thrown 
into it. 

1. Eck and Wiel, near rt. Amerongen. 
Amerongen itself is situated at a little 
distance from the river. Lord Athlone 
has a seat near here. 

rt. Rheenen (Inn, Honing van Bo- 
heme, bad) is a town of 1600 Inhab., 
on the middle branch of the Rhine. 
There is nothing to be seen here but an 
Gothic church with a handsome tower. 
(1531). A large quantity of tobacco is 
cultivated in this district. Frederick, 
K. of Bohemia, lived here in retirement, 
under the protection of his uncle P. 
Maurice of Orange. A little out of 
Rheenen, 1. of the road to Amerongen, 
at the entrance of a meadow, under 
some willow-trees, the English tra¬ 
veller will remark the mounds under 
which the bones of some hundreds of 
his countrymen are mouldering. In 
1794 the hospital for the prisoners taken 
in the Duke of York’s army was at 
Rheenen, and, the mortality being very 
great, this spot became the cemetery of 
the hospital. 

rt. Wageningen, 14 m. from Arn¬ 
hem (Inn, Hof van Guelderland, not 
good), an inconsiderable town, of 5326 
Inhab., supposed to be the ad Vada of 
the Romans: it is connected with the 
Rhine by a short canal, 7 m. to Eck 
Rly. Stat. On the opposite side of the 
river to Wageningen is a flat district 
of meadow-land, called the island of 
Betuwe, because isolated by the Lek 
and Waal; it retains in its name a 
memorial of the ancient inhabitants of 
this country, the Batavi. 


1. Heteren. 

rt. Arnhem. (Route 5.) Rly. Stat. 

rt. 3 m. above Arnhem the JJsscl 
(pron. Eyssel) branches off from the 
Rhine, and flows into the Zuider Zee a 
Kampen. It is also navigated by steam 
(Rte. 12.) 

1. Huissen. Near Tollhuis the ar¬ 
my of Louis XIV. crossed the Rhine, 
1672, an exploit much vaunted by the 
French poets (Boileau, &c.) and histo¬ 
rians of the time, though little risk was 
incurred but that of drowning, as there 
were very few, if any, Dutch troops 
immediately on the spot to oppose the 
passage. The river was then much 
reduced by the drought of summer, 
though not entirely fordable, and many 
regiments had to swim across. The 
Great Conde was here wounded in the 
wrist, and his nephew was killed by 
his side. 

rt. Pannerden, near the N. point of the 
Island of Betuwe. Here the Waal first 
branches out from the main trunk of 
the Rhine, which above this spot flows 
in one undivided stream. By the 
management of the Waterstaat, only 
one-third of the waters of the Rhine 
pass through the channel of the Pauner- 
den, here strongly dyked, while two- 
thirds are conducted into the Waal. 

The voyage to Cologne is described 
in Rte. 34. 


ROUTE 12. 

ROTTERDAM TO ANTWERP, BY MOERDIJK 
[breda], RAILWAY (BOIS-LE-DUC— 
TILBURG), OR BY WATER, PASSING 
BERGEN-Or-ZOOM. 

59j- Eng. m. Railway opened 1854 
and 1855 between Moerdijk and Ant¬ 
werp. 4 trains daily from Moerdijk 
(22^ m -)> present terminus of the 
railway—to Antwerp, 37 Inn, in If hrs. 

Steamers three times a day in con¬ 
nexion with trains between Rotterdam 
and Moerdijk in 24 hrs. These steamers 
start from the wharf immediately oppo¬ 
site the Stat. of the Dutch-Rhenish Rly., 
and correspond with the trains to and 
from Amsterdam and Germany. 

The connexion between Rotterdam 
and Moerdyk, hitherto maintained by 





Holland k 


87 


ROUTE 12.—MOERDIJK. BREDA. 


3 ferries—at Rotterdam, over the Maas; 
at Dort, over the Mervve; and at Moer- 
dijk, over the Hollands-Diep—will soon 
he facilitated by the construction of three 
Rly. Bridges of the greatest magnitude 
over the three rivers, and engineering 
skill, hy 1872, will have removed the im¬ 
pediments caused hy three changes of 
train and transfers of baggage. Viaducts, 
4600 ft. in total length, will carry this 
rly. through the town of Rotterdam to 
a bridge over the Nieuwe Maas , of 5 
spans—2 of 295 ft. each, and 3 of about 
88 ft. A swing bridge will allow 
masted vessels to pass up. 

llj Dort Stat. In Route 11. The 
Railway Bridge near Dort has 2 spans 
of 287 ft., 2 spans of 211 ft., and 2 
swing bridges 88 ft. long each. 

On leaving Dort the steamer turns 
out of the broad Maas into a narrow 
channel, the Dordsche Kil , at the outlet of 
which, into the Hollands-Diep, another 
broad arm of the Maas, stand a few scat¬ 
tered houses called Willemsdorp, oppo¬ 
site to which lies 

23 Moerdijk Junct. Stat. (Inn , Hoff¬ 
man’s Hotel.) The Railway Bridge over 
the Hollands-Diep is one of the largest 
in the world, over a tidal river 8200 
ft. broad. It is in 14 spans, each of 
328 ft., with a swing bridge at the S. 
extremity over a separate channel. 
Some of the piers are founded on piles 
and concrete, others rest on cylinders 
sunk by aid of exhausted air to a depth 
of 65 to 72 ft. below low water. The 
roadway is of wrought iron, the upper 
flange of the lattice girders forming a 
parabolic curve. Dutch Custom House. 

[A direct line from Mordijk to Breda 
(see below), by Langeweg Stat.] 

26 Zevenbergen Stat. 

Oudenbosch Stat. 

36f Roosendaal Junct. Stat. Dutch 
Custom House. Branch Rly. to Bergcn- 
op-Zoom (see Rte. 12a). 

[Hence a Branch Rly. diverges by 
Etten Stat. to 

15 Breda Stat. Inns: H.de Flandre; 
Golden Lion. 

Breda is a fortress on the rivers Merk 
and Aa, whose waters, together with 
the surrounding marshes, render it al¬ 
most inaccessible to an enemy, but very 
unhealthy. 15,500 Inhab. 


The principal Protestant Church has 
a lofty and graceful octagon tower, in¬ 
jured by being surmounted by a Dutch 
bulbous spire. Within it are some 
interesting monuments : that of Count 
Engelbrecht II. of Nassau , favourite ge¬ 
neral of the Emp. Maximilian (d. 1505), 
and his wife, resembles in plan the mo¬ 
nument in Westminster Abbey of Sir 
Francis Vere. The effigies, of Italian 
alabaster, repose upon elaborately carved 
mats; while 4 statues of Julius Caesar, 
Regulus, Hannibal, and Philip of Ma- 
cedon, in a half-kneeling posture, sup¬ 
port on their shoulders a table of stone, 
on which lies the armour of the prince 
carved in marble. It has been attributed 
to M. Angelo; but the artist, of no 
mean merit, is unknown. Another 
monument, bearing the date 1536, is to 
the memory of the Sieur de Borgni- 
val, chief engineer to Charles V. Behind 
the high altar is an altar tomb of the 
Knight of Renesse and his lady. At 
the end of the N. aisle is a fine monu¬ 
ment to some of the Aschendaal family, 
with a vigorous relief of the Last 
Judgment. In the choir is a highly 
ornamented brass, commemorating 
William of Gaellen, a Dean of the 
chapter; and well-executed carvings in 
wood, representing monies in ludicrous 
attitudes, intended to satirise the vices 
of the clergy. There is also' a very fine 
brass font, the cover of which is raised 
by a crane. 

St. Barbara's Ch. is one of the best 
examples, in Holland, of revived Gothic 
(Cuypers Arch.), 1869. The arrange¬ 
ment and fittings of the interior, rood- 
screen, &c., are very good. It is sur¬ 
mounted by three spires. 

The old Castle was built, 1350, by 
Count Henry of Nassau; the modern 
Chateau by William, afterwards the 
Third of England. It is a square sur¬ 
rounded by the waters of the Merk. 
Here is a Military Academy for infantry, 
cavalry, artillery, and engineers, capable 
of accommodating 192 cadets. It is 
exclusively from this academy that the 
Dutch army is now officered. Here 
are good stables and an ample stud, 
a swimming school, and an extensive 
plateau, with cannon of every calibre, 
which supplies the means of chill ap- 




88 


ROUTE 12. —ROTTERDAM TO ANTWERP. 


Sect. I. 


plicable to cadi branch, of the service. 
It contains also a good library, a well- 
stocked model-room, and a small mu¬ 
seum of arms. 

Breda was taken from the Spaniards, 
in 1590, by a singular stratagem con¬ 
certed between a brave veteran cap¬ 
tain of Prince Maurice’s army, named 
Heraugiere, and one Adrian Yanden- 
berg, owner of a barge which supplied 
the garrison with turf for fuel. On 
Thursday, Feb. 26, Heraugiere, and 
80 picked soldiers, entered the barge, 
and were carefully covered over with a 
cargo of turf. Though the boat had 
not many miles to go from the place 
where it was laden, it was so much im¬ 
peded by contrary winds, and by the 
frost which had covered the water with 
a thick coat of ice, that the third day 
passed before it arrived within ^ league 
of the town. To add to the perils of 
the crew the vessel sprung a leak; the 
soldiers stood up to their knees in water; 
and one of them, named Matthias Kelt, 
began to cough so violently that for fear 
he should cause their detection he en¬ 
treated his companions to run him 
through with his sword. Luckily they 
were not rigorously examined by the 
guard, and the sacrifice of the brave 
soldier was not required. It was not 
till midnight on the 3rd of March (5 
days after they had embarked) that the 
sluice-gates of the citadel were opened, 
and the boat was dragged in through 
the ice by the very garrison who were 
so soon to suffer from its entrance. They 
carried off so much of the turf for their 
use, that the boards which covered the 
concealed band were nearly laid bare; 
but, by another piece of good fortune, 
they did not inspect the cargo very 
minutely; and Vandenberg, with con¬ 
siderable cleverness, contrived by his 
wit and jokes to turn away their atten¬ 
tion, and, lulling all suspicion, finished 
by making them drunk. As soon as 
they were asleep, Captain Heraugiere 
and his soldiers issued forth from their 
miserable retreat; the sentinels were 
killed, and the rest of the garrison, 
terrified at the sudden and unexpected 
attack, abandoned the castle without 
even the precaution of breaking down 
the drawbridge leading from it into the 


town, which was entered a few days 
afterwards by Prince Maurice and his 
army. After several fruitless attempts 
on the part of the Spaniards to regain 
Breda, it was taken in 1625 by Spinola, 
who burnt the famous barge which, like 
the Trojan horse, had contributed to its 
capture by the Dutch in 1590. The 
surrender of Breda to Spinola has been 
commemorated by Velazquez in his 
finest picture, “ Las Lanzas,” now in 
the Madrid gallery. (Spanish Handbook.) 

Charles II. resided at Breda during part 
of the time of his exile from England. 

Railway from Breda to Boxtel, to 
Bois-le-duc. Bte. 13. 

At Breda the traveller can take the 
train E. to Bergen-op-Zoom (Bte. 12a) 
W. to Tilburg and Boxtel (Rte. 13), both 
busy manufacturing little towns, Eind¬ 
hoven, Venlo, or Maestricht, or go on 
direct to Antwerp.] 


The Belgian frontier is crossed before 
reaching 

Esschen Stat. Campthout Stat. 

52£ Capellen Stat. 

Eekcren Stat. Custom-house search.- 

A tract of heath, now fast yield¬ 
ing to cultivation, forms the border¬ 
land of the 2 countries. £At Hoogh- 
straeten, 10 m. E. of Campthout,. 
so called from the Roman highway 
which passed through it, the very large 
and handsome Ch. of St. Anthony and 
Eliz. contains monuments to the noble 
family of La Laing, one of whom built 
the steeple, 364 ft. high, of brick and 
stone, richly ornamented, 1546. It has 
12 painted windows, old tapestry, a brass 
font, &c. The chateau of the La Laings 
is now the Poor-house.] 

59i Antwerp Stat. In Rte. 22. 


2. ROTTERDAM TO ANTWERP BY WATER. 

Steamers daily in summer by Dort, 
Fort Batz, and the Scheldt. The dis¬ 
tance is about 80 miles. The time 
taken is 7 hrs.; the return passage is 
longer, as the tide does not serve to 
pass the banks, which it does in go¬ 
ing, and therefore a circuit must 
be made to avoid them. The voyage 
is pleasant in fine weather; but the 





89 


Holland, route 12.—Rotterdam 

broad estuaries dividing the islands 
which form the province of Zealand are 
nearly as much agitated as the open sea 
hy storms. Since the Rly. was opened, 
the train is generally preferred to 
steamboats. 

After quitting Dort (Rte. 11) the 
vessel threads a narrow channel, having 
the appearance of an artificial canal, 
called Dordsche Kill, leading into the 
wide estuary of the Hollands-Diep, and 
Volke Rak, arms of the Maas, flowing 
between the islands of Zealand. The 
places passed on the voyage from Dort 
are S’ Gravendeel, Willemsdorp, the 
fortress of Willemstad, forts Ruiter, 
and Ooltgensplaats, 2 block - houses 
covered with red-tiled roofs, erected by 
the French to defend the entrance of 
the Hollands-Diep against the English, 
Philipsland, and Stavenis. On the l. 
lies Tholen, and on the rt. the island of 
Schowen, with its port, Zierickzee, 
memorable for the daring exploit of 
the Spaniards, under Requesens, 1575, 
who forded the channel called Keeten, 
by a passage 6 m. long, and before 
untried, wading for the most part up to 
their necks in water, and in the face 
of a fleet of boats manned by the Zea¬ 
landers, who annoyed the Spaniards by 
a deadly fire, and actually cut otf their 
rear-guard. They thus gained posses¬ 
sion of the island, and soon after of 
Zierickzee. At Zijp an omnibus is sta¬ 
tioned to convey passengers to or from 
Zierickzee (Inn, Hof van Holland), 
less than an hour’s drive; its square 
tower is conspicuous from the steamer. 

The steamer then enters the Ooster 
Schelde (no longer passing the channel 
near Bergen-op-Zoom, it being closed 
by the dyke of the Roozendaal Ely. to 
Goes), traversing a new canal lately 
cut through the island of S. Beveland, 
passing under the bridge of the Goes 
Ely. and entering the Western Schelde, 
passing by Fort Bath, where the two 
arms of the river divide and near which 
is the extensive sandbank called Ver- 
dronken, or Drowned Land, because 
overwhelmed by an inroad of the sea, 
and thus cut off from the island of Zuid 
Beveland. The description of the voyage 
up the Schelde to Antwerp will be found 
in Rte. 18. 


TO ANTWERP BY WATER. 


ROUTE 12a. 

ROOSENDAAL STAT. TO BERGEN-OP-ZOOM, 
GOES, AND FLUSHING. 

Eoosendaal June. Stat. on the Ely. 
from Rotterdam to Antwerp (Etc. 12). 
4 trains daily in l'| hours. 

Worms Stat. 

Bergen-op-Zoom Stat. (Inn, Hof van 
Holland), one of the strongest and dullest 
places in Holland, considered the master¬ 
piece in the art of fortification of 
Coehorn; 8500 Inhab.; situated in a 
marshy country which can easily be laid 
under water. 

Among the numerous sieges and 
attacks which it has endured, the most 
interesting to the English is the attempt 
by Gen. Graham to carry the place by 
storm, on the night of the 8th of March, 
1814, which was nearly successful. 
Two of the 4 attacking columns suc¬ 
ceeded in establishing themselves on 
the ramparts, with very trifling loss. 
The rt. column, attacked at the en¬ 
trance of the harbour, which could be 
forded at low water. They were ulti¬ 
mately repulsed, by a bold onslaught 
of the garrison, with very severe loss. 
Some hundred British soldiers were 
buried in the William Bastion, which 
was removed along with the old forti¬ 
fications 1868. The names of the 
British officers who fell on this occasion 
may be seen in the church recorded on 
a monumental tablet erected by their 
brother officers. In the great Protest¬ 
ant Ch., the remnant of a fine building, 
which has suffered much, is the tomb 
of Lord Edward Bruce, killed in a duel, 
1613, with Sir Edw. Sackville (after¬ 
wards E. of Dorset), to fight which they 
came over from England. ( Guardian , 
Nos. 129, 133.) 

From Bergen the rly. is carried 
partly over an arm of the sea by 

Woensdrccht Stat., Rstland Stat. 

Krabbendijke Stat. to 

Goes Stat., from whence it will be 
continued to Middelburg and 

Flushing (see Rte. IS). 



90 


ROUTE 13. —UTRECHT TO MAESTRICHT. Sect. I. 


ROUTE 13. 

UTRECHT TO KUILENBERG, HERTOGEN- 

BOSCH (BOIS LE DUC) TO EINDHOVEN, 

VENLO, ROERMOND, AND MAESTRICHT. 

2 trains daily. Utrecht is described 
in Rte. 5. 

Houten Sta., Schalwijk Stat. 

Kuilenburg Stat. Here the rly. crosses 
the Lek on a magnificent Bridge. 

Waardenburg Stat. 

Boxtel June. Stat., a busy little town, 
whence a rly. branches to Tilburg, 
Breda, and Antwerp. 

The river Maas is crossed. 

Hertogenbosch ( Bois-le - Due ) Stat. 

Hertogenbosch is a fortress and chief 
town of N. Brabant, with 23,900 
Inhab. (Inn, Goude Leeuw.) The Ch. of 
St. John (1312) is one of the finest eccle¬ 
siastical edifices in Holland. It is well 
preserved, and has double aisles and 
apsidal chapels (date 1260-1312), an 
earlier chapel at the NAY. end, a Lady- 
chapel N. of the choir, and a very 
rich marble choir-screen. The Stad- 
liuis, surmounted by a tower with a 
fine set of chimes, contains paintings 
and armour. 

Best Stat. 

Eindhoven Junct. Stat,, a busy little 
manufacturing town (Pop. 3300). It lies 
on the confluence of the Gender and the 
Dommel, and possesses many manufac¬ 
tories worked by steam or water-power. 
Pleasantly situated, it is surrounded 
by well-cultivated fields, gardens, and 
pretty villas. 

Railway to Hasselt and Maestricht 


(Rte. 27). The Stations between 
Eindhoven and Yenlo are 

Nuenen-Tongerlee. 

Helmond. 

Horst Sevenum. 

Yenlo, Junct . Stat. (Inn: Zwyns- 
hoofd), a small fortified town on the rt. 
bank of the Maese, celebrated in history 
for the many sieges it has withstood 
(Pop. 7700). Steamers to Nymegen 
and Rotterdam (Rte. 11), and Rail to 
Maestricht. 

Tegelen Stat. 

Reuwer Stat. 

Swalmen Stat. 

Roermond Stat. (Inn: He Gouden 
Leeuwen) an ancient and once populous 
city (Pop. 8500). At the period of the 
80 years' war, this city was frequently 
taken and retaken by the contending 
armies. The Minster (Notre Dame, 
1218-24) is one of the finest Romanesque 
buildings in the Netherlands. It con¬ 
tains many ancient monuments—among 
them those of Gerard III., Count of 
Gueldres, and of Margaretha, his wife, 
the founders. The Roman Catholics, 
who are numerous in Roermond, propose 
restoring this dilapidated church to its 
original architectural beauty. The 
parochial ch., dedicated to St. Christo¬ 
pher, is a large and handsome build¬ 
ing, with 3 large and 14 small towers, 
a fine organ, carved oaken pulpit, and 
confessionals. It contains several fine 
paintings, the principal of which are 
the Ascension of Christ, by Willebroodt ; 
the Descent of the Holy Ghost, by Be 
Witt; the Four Evangelists, with St. 
Peter and St. Paul, by Van Helmont; a 
Christ, by Rubens ; and a Holy Family, 
by Linssen . 

Steamers by Venlo to Nymegen (Rte. 
12) and Rotterdam. Rly. to 

Maasbracht, Echte, Susteren Stats. 

Sittard, Beek Elsloo, Bunde Stats. 

Maestricht Stat. (see Rte. 24). 



SECTION II. 


BELGIUM. 


Introductory Information. 

§ 18. Passports. — 19. Money. — 20. Travelling—Diligences ; Hired Carriages — 
21. Railroads ; 22. Vigilantes .— 23. Inns .— 24. General View of Belgium. — 25. 
Belgian Cities and Architecture. — 26. Chimes ( Carillons) and Clocks. — 27. Works 
of Art; Schools of Van Eyck and Rubens .— 28. Military Tour ; Tour of the 

Meuse ; the Ardennes. 


Routes. 


route 

15. Dover to Ca la is and Brussels, 

direct by Lille, and Tour- 
nay —Railway .... 
15a. Lille to Brussels, by Courtrai 

and Ghent. 

15b. Courtrai to Brussels by 
Audenaerde —Rail . . . 

16. Calais to Courtrai, by Dunkirk 

and Tpres —Rail . . . 

17. Calais to Bruges, by Fumes, 

Dixmude , and Lichtervelde 

18. London to Antwerp, by the 

Schelde . 

19. Ghent to Brussels, by Alost — 

Rail. 

20. Voyage from London or D o ver 

to Ostend . 

21. Ostend to Bruges, Ghent, 

Termonde, and Mechlin— 

Rail. 

21a. Bruges to Courtrai—R ail . 

22. Ghent to Antwerp —Rail . . 

22a. Antwerp to Tumhout and 

the Belgian Pauper Colonies, 
and round to Louvain . . 

23. Antwerp to Brussels, by Mech¬ 

lin —Railway .... 

24. Brussels to Liege, by Waterloo 

and Namur. — Descent of 
the Meuse, Namur to 
Maestricht . 

25. Liege to Aix-la-Chapelle, by 

Verviers, Railway.—V isit 
to Spa . 


PAGE 

I 

104 

112 

113 

114 ! 
117 ! 

J 

122 I 

123 ! 

124| 

140 i 

141 j 

156 ! 

157 I 

168 

185 


ROUTE 

26. Mechlin or Brussels to 

Liege, by Louvain —Rail¬ 
way . 

27. Antwerp to Aix-la-Chapelle, 

by Aerschot, Diest, Ilas- 
selt, and Maestricht —Rail¬ 
way . 

28. Calais to Cologne, by Lille, 

Douai , Valenciennes , Quie- 
vrain, Manage, Charleroi, 
Namur—R ail . . . . 

28a. Sambre and Meuse Rail¬ 
way—C harleroi to Virieux 
and Givet. 

29. Brussels to Luxemburg and 

Treves, by Ottignies, Na¬ 
mur, and Arlon —Great 
Luxemburg Railway . . 

30. Namur to Dinant and Givet, 

by the Meuse —Rail . . 

31. The Ardennes. — Dinant to 

Han sur Lesse, St. Hubert, 
and Bouillon . 

32. Brussels to Paris, by Hal, 

Mans , Maubeuge, Haut- 
mont, St. Quentin—R ail . 

33. Brussels to Paris, by Otti¬ 

gnies, Chai'leroi, Erquelin- 
nes, St. Quentin, and Creil 

—Rail. 

33a. Spa to Luxemburg, by 
Stavelot and Vieux Salm. 
[Diekirch.]. 


page 

190 

194 

197 

199 

200 
203 

205 

207 


209 

210 














92 


§18. PASSPORTS.— 19. MONEY. 


Sect. II. 


§ 18 . Passports. 

Passports are not now required in Belgium, yet it is not advisable to travel 
without one, as a means of identification in cases of necessity. 

English travellers should take a Foreign Office passport (see Introduction), 
but no visa is required. 


§ 19. Money. 

French money is current throughout Belgium; indeed the currency of Bel¬ 
gium has the same coins and divisions as the French, except that the Belgian 
coinage includes a piece of 2~ frs. The smaller Dutch coins are also met with, 
and travellers should beware of confounding cents with centimes. At Brussels, 
even in good shops, cents are charged. A cent, being of a guilder, is equal 
to 2 centimes. 


BELGIAN AND FRENCH MONEY. 


Silver coins: 1 franc = 100 centimes . 

1 franc = 20 centimes . 
\ franc = 50 centimes . 
2^ francs = 250 centimes . 
5 francs = 500 centimes . 


s. d. 

= §\d. English. 

= 0 2 

= 0 4f 

— 2 0 

= 40 


Gold coins: Leopold d’or, Napoleon, or 1 . n 

20-franc piece .... / 

Piece de dix francs ....=711 about. 

Piece de cinque francs ... = 3 11 about. 

Nickel coins of 20 centimes = 2d. English; 10 = Id. English; 5 = Id. 
English. 


Copper pieces of 2, 5, and 10 centimes. 


FOREIGN COINS REDUCED TO FRENCH CURRENCY. 


English Sovereign.— 

f r - 

25 

c. 

50 

Crown. 

6 

25 

Shilling ... . = 

1 

25 

Prussian Dollar .... 

3 

75 J. 

Frederick d’or. . . . — 

21 

00 

Bavarian Florin = 20 pence English = 

2 

15 

Austrian Florin = 2 shillings English= 

2 

57 J 


reign is at least 
worth 25 frs., 
or 6 thalers 20 
s. gr. in Prus¬ 
sia. 


The Bank of Belgium issues notes of the value of 1000, 500, 100, 50, and 20 
francs. All gold coin, both Belgian and foreign, has been withdrawn from cir¬ 
culation. 







Belgium. § 20. modes of travelling.—21. railroads. 


93 


§ 20. Travelling—Diligences, Hired Carriages. 

Posting in Belgium may be said to be obsolete, and the Government no longer 
regulates the system of post-horses. Diligences also are become rare, but 
where they exist are conducted nearly on the same footing as in Holland (§ 4);. 
they belong to private individuals or companies. They are frequently ill-managed 
and uncomfortable. 

Hired Carriages. —Persons unwilling to resort to the diligence, may have a 
voiture with 2 horses at the rate of about 25 francs a-day, and 5 francs to the 
driver; but they must, at the same time, pay 25 francs per diem back fare, 
making 50 francs per diem for carriage and horses. 

§ 21. Railroads. 

Belgium, owing to the level surface of the country, is peculiarly well suited for 
railroads, which can be constructed at much less cost here than in England, and 
have in consequence extended their ramifications through all parts of the king¬ 
dom. Mechlin is the point at which the 2 main lines intersect—one travers¬ 
ing Belgium from E. to W., the other from N. to S. The main lines to the 
extent of 500 m. are in the hands of the Government. The rest, about 1200 m., 
belong to private companies. 

The rate of travelling is nearly 20 m. an hour, while express trains attain a 
speed of 35 m. There are three classes of carriages, fitted up nearly as our 
own; a smoking compartment is generally set apart for those who desire to 
smoke. The fares , even in the first-class carriages, are less than in England, 
not exceeding Id. a mile; indeed, travelling in Belgium has been rendered ex¬ 
ceedingly cheap by the railways for those who have very little baggage. The 
fares are reduced in proportion to the length of the journey. In Belgium you 
may travel 2nd class in express trains, which you cannot do in France. Rail¬ 
way tickets are called coupons in Belgium. 

Baggage. —Only 50 lbs. are allowed free to each passenger; all above that 
weight is weighed and charged for separately, except such small packages as may 
go under the passenger’s seat. On some Belgium lines no luggage is allowed except 
what can be carried in the hand. If the traveller wants to stop at several towns in 
succession, it saves much time and expense of porterage to send on the baggage 
to the farthest point to await his arrival. The delay caused by weighing the 
baggage at every station, which is considerable, owing to there being only one 
weighing machine, is also avoided. A receipt is given for the baggage, referring 
to a number affixed to each article, on producing which at the point of destina¬ 
tion, the whole is safely delivered to the owner. A small charge of 10 centimes 
is made for booking the baggage. Baggage registered at London or Dover for 
Brussels or Cologne will not be detained at the frontiers of France or Prussia, 
but will await the arrival of the owner at Brusselles or Cologne before being 
searched. 

There are 3 Classes of Railway Carriages: 1. Diligences , or 1st class, roomy, 
and provided with stuffed cushions and glass windows. 2. Chars-a-banc , very 
superior to the 2nd class in England : they afford ample accommodation, and 
contain 30 people, have cushioned benches and glass windows. 3. Waggons.— 
Better than 3rd class in England : have wooden benches. 

The management of the railroads is well conducted. Travellers will act wisely 
in looking carefully to see that the change they receive in paying for their 
tickets is correct. 

As the stations are placed in the suburbs of the different towns, a good deal of 
time must usually be allowed for going to and from the station. The Omnibuses 


94 § 22. vigilantes. —23. inns.— 24. general view. Sect. II. 

which traverse the streets of the towns to collect passengers set out so long 
before the time of the starting of the train, tarry so long in the streets, and arrive 
often so much before the time of starting, that they increase rather than remove 
the evil. At the same time it must be said that it is necessary to reach the 
station about a quarter of an hour before the train starts, at least at the stations 
'where there are many passengers, owing to the delay arising from weighing the 
luggage. The fare is 4 a franc, or 1 franc with luggage. 

The Main Stations in the larger towns are provided not only "with Buffets 
(Restaurants), hut also with dressing-rooms (Cabinets de Toilette), great com¬ 
fort and convenience for ladies and gentlemen. Most of the minor stations are 
small and inconvenient, and often without an} r accommodations. There is 
frequently no separation in the waiting-rooms between the passengers of different 
classes; and the traveller, locked in until the moment when his train arrives, 
must often endure the society of Belgian boors, redolent of garlic and tobacco. 
The moment of departure and arrival is marked by hurry, crushing, and con¬ 
fusion. Sometimes, too, a first-class passenger who has paid for his ticket is 
thrust into a second-class carriage, because there is no room for him elsewhere. 

Whenever the train arrives at a branch rail a portion of the passengers are 
transferred to other carriages. Travellers, therefpre, should he attentive to the 
notice given by the conducteur at Bruges, Ghent, Malines, and Mouscron. At 
Mechlin , where four lines converge, the confusion and delay from the crossing of 
trains, the changing of carriages, and shifting of baggage, is very great. Tra¬ 
vellers must take care, first that they are not run over, and next that they are not 
carried off by the wrong train in a direction opposite to that in which they 
intended to go. 

§ 22. Vigilantes, Guides, Touters. 

In all the Belgian towns, and at the Railway stations, a species of Ca&, called 
Vigilantes, may be hired, which for 1 franc, or, between 11 at night and 7 o’clock 
in the morning, for 14 fr. (plus a small pourboire), will convey the traveller and 
his baggage to any part of the town, and release him from the pestilent myrmi¬ 
dons and commissionaires of the inns. The tariff of charges is throughout Bel¬ 
gium, 1 franc the course; or by time, 14 franc the first hour, 1 franc all after. 
Two or more persons had better take a vigilante rather than the omnibus— 
money as well as time is saved. 

There are many places which may be seen in 1 or 2 hrs., where the traveller 
may halt between two trains, leave his luggage at the station, and explore the 
town in great comfort in a vigilante. 

English travellers are warned against the pestilent class of street guides or 
touters who bore you with offers of services in the cities of Belgium, especially 
Bruges. They are impudent always, generally incompetent, and instead of 
being more moderate, are more exacting than the regular Valets de Place of the 
hotels. 

§ 23. Belgian Inns, 

The average charges are—in the first-class hotels— for a bed, 2 to 3 francs. 
Dinner, table-d’hote, 3 to 5 francs, without wine. Dinner a-part, 5 to 6 francs. 
Supper, table-d’hote, 1 franc 50 cent, to 2 francs. A bottle of Bordeaux (ordinaire) 
wine, 3 francs. Breakfast, with eggs and meat, 2 francs; tea or coffee and 
bread and butter, 1 franc to 14 franc; servants, 50 centimes to 1 franc per diem. 
Prices have risen in Belgium since 1850. 

§ 24. General View of Belgium. 

The N. and E. provinces of Belgium resemble parts of Holland (§ 8), and in their 
flatness, their fertility, and the number of their canals (§ 10) and dvkes (6 91 
can be geographically regarded only as a continuation of Holland. 


95 


Belgium. § 24. general view of Belgium. 

This portion of Belgium teems with population, so that in traversing it it 
has the appearance of one vast continuous village. The S. provinces, on the 
contrary, including the Ardennes, consist, in a great degree, of a rugged district 
of hills covered with heath, or dense forests, which still harbour the wolf and the 
boar, intersected by rapid streams, and abounding in really picturesque scenery, 
the effect of which is increased by the frequent occurrence of old feudal castles. 
It is but a thinly peopled district; and its inhabitants, called Walloons, are a 
rough and hardy race. 

The N. provinces are further distinguished from the S. by their language. 
A line drawn nearly due E. from Gravelines to the Lys, and down that river 
to Menin, and from Menin again nearly due E., passing a little to the S. 
of Brussels and Louvain to the Meuse, between Maestricht and Liege, marks 
the boundary of the French and Flemish languages. The people living on the 
N. of this line speak Flemish, those on the S. French. Another, though some- 
what more undulating line, drawn from Menin, passing between Valenciennes 
and Mons, to the frontier near Chimay, would mark the boundary of the two 
Fi'ench dialects spoken in Belgium; the people on the W. of this line speaking 
the Picard dialect, those on the E. of it the Walloon. 

The population of Belgium exceeds 5,600,000 ; of which about ^ speak French 
(the Picard and Walloon dialects), the other § Flemish. In the provinces, sepa¬ 
rately, there is generally a vast excess of either race or language. In respect 
to race Brabant does not probably differ much from the other provinces, but 
in respect to language it is an exception to the rule, about \ of its inhab. speaking 
French and § either Flemish or some other dialect of the Dutch language. The 
French Belgians are, in general, more civilised than their neighbours. Having 
the immense advantage of the use of a great literary language spoken by all 
travellers and foreigners, they keep nearly all the shops and hotels, and conse¬ 
quently have a larger intercourse with the world. In Belgium every acre 
maintains 3 men; wealth, as in France, is pretty equally distributed. The 
class of employers, with their families, counts nearly a third of the whole 
inhabitants. 

The late kingdom of the Netherlands was built up of the fragments of other 
states, and “kept together rather by the pressure of surrounding Europe than by 
any internal principles of cohesion.” The Belgians differ from the Dutch in two 
essential points, which are quite sufficient to make them incapable of any per¬ 
manent union: they are French in inclination and Roman Catholics in religion. 
Their history exhibits none of those striking traits of heroic patriotism which 
have distinguished the Dutch annals; there is nothing marked in their cha¬ 
racters ; and though free from that dull plodding patience and cold calculation of 
gain which belong to their phlegmatic neighbours, they are equally devoid of the 
high-minded courage and ceaseless perseverance which have distinguished them. 
Though lovers of liberty, the Belgians have been dependent on a succession of 
foreign masters, Burgundian, Spanish, Austrian, or French. The mania of the 
Crusades having possessed with especial fervour the nobles of Flanders, they 
were incited to make every species of sacrifice in furtherance of their favourite 
purpose. Lands, political powers, and privileges were parted with, on the spur 
of the moment, to furnish means for their expedition. Their wealthy vassals, 
the burghers of Bruges, Ghent, and other great towns, were thus enabled, by 
their riches, to purchase their independence. They forthwith formed themselves 
into communes of corporations, and began to exercise the right of deliberating 
on their own affairs; elected bailiffs (echevins); obtained a jurisdiction of their 
own, and with it a great seal; and evinced their sense of these advantages by 
building a huge belfry, or a vast town-hall, as atrophy or temple of their liberties. 
But though the Flemish burghers gained their freedom from their feudal lords 
much sooner than most other nations, they threw away the boon by their petty 
jealousies and quarrels among one another. To use the words of a distin- 


96 


Sect. II. 


§ 25. BELGIAN CITIES. 

guished British historian, “ Liberty never wore a more unamiable countenance 
than among these burghers, who abused the strength she gave them by cruelty 
and insolence.”— Hallam. They have suffered from their faults; their govern¬ 
ment has been subject to perpetual changes, and their country has been the 
scene of war for centuries: a mere arena for combat—the Cockpit of Europe. 
The natural consequence of so many revolutions has been a certain debasement 
of the national character, evinced in the lower orders by ignorance, and a coarse¬ 
ness of manners which will be particularly apparent to every traveller. 

He that would travel with the full pleasure of historical associations should 
be well read in Froissart ere he visits Belgium; and when he repairs to Ghent, 
let him not fail to carry Henry Taylor’s ‘ Philip van Artevelde ’ in his hand. 

Motley’s Histories of ‘ The Pise of the Dutch Republic,’ and of ‘ The United 
Netherlands,’ 1861-67, appty as much to Belgium as to Holland. 

Delepierre’s ‘ History of Flemish Literature,’ London, 1860, is the latest and 
best authority on that subject. John Arrowsmith’s or Keith Johnston’s maps 
of Belgium are good and clear. 


§ 25. Belgian Cities, and their Architecture. 

Belgium contains a multitude of interesting examples of architectural shill 
in the middle ages, eminently worthy of careful study, and sufficient, from the 
diversity of the epochs they mark and the character they bear, to illustrate fully 
a history of the rise and progress of Gothic architecture, and the re-birth of 
Italian art. 

“ It is in the streets of Antwerp and Brussels that the eye still rests upon the 
forms of architecture which appear in the pictures of the Flemish school—those 
fronts, richly decorated with various ornaments, and terminating in roofs, the 
slope of which is concealed from the eye by windows and gables still more highly 
ornamented; the whole comprising a general effect, which, from its grandeur and 
intricacy, at once amuses and delights the spectator. In fact this rich intermix¬ 
ture of towers and battlements, and projecting windows highly sculptured, joined 
to the height of the houses, and the variety of ornament upon their fronts, pro¬ 
duces an effect as superior to those of the tame uniformity of a modern street, as 
the casque of the warrior exhibits over the slouched broad-brimmed beaver of a 
Quaker .”—Sir Walter Scott. 

In England, Gothic architecture is almost confined to churches ; in the Nether¬ 
lands it is shown to be equally suited to civil edifices, and even for dwelling- 
houses. The Town Halls (Hotels de Ville, Halles, &c.) at Ypres, Bruges, Ghent, 
Oudenardc, Brussels, and Louvain, are especially worthy of attention: they are 
most perfect examples of the Gothic style; and it may truly be asserted that 
nowhere else in the whole of Europe are any civic edifices found to approach in 
grandeur and elegance those of Belgium. Amongst the privileges granted to 
the towns when they first acquired communal rights none seem to have been 
deemed greater, or were more speedily acted upon, than the right of building a 
belfry to call together the citizens, and a hall as a general meeting-place. 

“ The domestic architecture of Belgium offers an infinite variety, and 
numerous hints for present application. Within a very small circle, in some cases 
even in a single city, examples may be found of the different styles of building 
which have prevailed at intervals, say of 50 years, from the 11th or 12th cent, 
to the present time. At Tournay, a most interesting old town, there are several 
exceedingly ancient houses ; Ghent and Malines display similar ancient houses. 



97 


Belgium. § 25. Belgian cities.— 26. chimes. 

The opulent burghers of these cities, once the most flourishing in Europe from 
their commerce and manufactures, were little inferior to princes in power and 
riches ; and the municipal structures which they founded may compete with the 
ecclesiastical in point of taste, elegance, and magnificence; they are in fact civic 
palaces, destined either for the residence of the chief magistrate, for the meeting 
of guilds and corporations of merchants and trades, or for assemblies of the mu¬ 
nicipal government, and sometimes of courts of justice. 

Belgium also possesses noble Gothic cathedrals at Mechlin, Brussels, Louvain, 
Libge, Tournay (the finest Romanesque edifice in • Belgium), and, above all, at 
Antwerp. 

Of early churches the most remarkable are, St. Vincent at Soignies, 10th 
centy.; St. Gertrude at Nivelle ; St. Bartholomew, Liege ; St. Servais, Maestricht, 
all of the 11th centy. 

Of Early Pointed churches may be mentioned St. Martin's at Ypres, St. Leo¬ 
nard’s at Leau, and St. Paul’s at Likge. Middle Pointed examples exist in the 
churches of Aerschot, of St. Martin at Hal, and Louvain. 

The finest 3rd Pointed churches are St. Bavon at Ghent, St. Martin at Alost, 
St. James at Antwerp and Liege, St. Gommaire at Lierre, the churches of Hoog- 
straeten and St. Hubert, St. Waltrude’s at Mons. 

The churches are usually open till noon; but as the side chapels, the choir, 
and the finest pictures are locked up, it is necessary, even at the open hour, 
to resort to the Suisse, or sexton, to see them. 

The most remarkable Feudal Edifices and Ruins are the castles of Bouillon, 
Mircourt, Vianden, Antoing, and Grimbergh; and the Abbeys of Villers, of 
Orval, and Echternach. 

The characteristics of the cities of Belgium are given in the following verses in 
monkish Latin:— 

“ Nobilibus* Bruxella viris, Antverpiaf nummis, 

GandavumJ laqueis, formosis Burga§ puellis, 

Lovanium|| doctis, gaudet Mecklinialf stultis.” 


v § 26. Chimes (Carillons) and Clocks. 

Chimes, or carillons, were invented in the Low Countries ; they have certainly 
been brought to the greatest perfection here, and are still heard in every town. 
They are of two kinds ; the one attached to a cylinder like the barrel of an organ, 
which always repeats the same times, and is moved by machinery; the other of 
a superior kind, played by a musician, with a set of keys. In all the great towns 
there are amateurs or a salaried professor, usually the organist of a church, who 
perform with great skill upon this gigantic instrument, placed high up in the 
church steeple. So fond are the Dutch and Belgians of this kind of music, that 
in some places the chimes appear scarcely to be at rest for ten minutes, either by 
day or night. The tunes are usually changed every year. Chimes were in ex¬ 
istence at Bruges in 1300—thus the claim of the town of Alost to the invention, 
a.d. 1487, is disposed of. The public clocks in Belgium strike the hour half an 
hour beforehand : thus, at half-past 11 the clock strikes 12. 

* Brussels was the seat of the Court, and therefore the residence of the nobility. 

f Antwerp was, perhaps, at one time the wealthiest city in Europe. 

+ The magistrates of Ghent were compelled to wear a halter round their necks by Charles V. 

$ Bruges still retains its reputation for pretty girls. 

|| The University of Louvain, in former days, rendered it the resort of the learned. 

The wise men of Mechlin thought their cathedral tower was on fire and pumped upon it, 
whereas it was only the moon shining through its tracery. 

[n. g.] 


F 


98 


§ 27. WORKS OF ART. 


Sect. II. 


§ 27. Works of Art in the Low Countries.*—The Schools of Van Eyck 

and Rubens. 

It is not in architecture alone that the artists of Belgium have attained an 
eminent degree of perfection. The art of sculpture, in stone, wood, and ivory, 
was carried on here in perfection from the middle ages, as is shown by triptichs 
and other relics preserved in sacristies of churches and museums down to Nicholas 
Faidherbe (17th centy.), Duquesnoi, Quellin, &c.; hut, above all, this country 
has had the rare distinction, at two distinct periods, of producing two different 
Schools of Painting; the founders of which, in both instances, equalled and 
even surpassed their contemporaries throughout the whole of Europe in the 
excellence of their works. 

The founders of the two schools of painting were Van Eyck and Rubens. 

The numerous works produced by them and their scholars, still existing in 
Belgium, and nowhere else to be found in equal perfection, form another great 
attraction of a journey through this country, and will he highly appreciated by 
every traveller of taste. 

The brothers Hubert and John Van Eyck, the founders of the early school, 
are believed to have flourished between 1370 and 1445. 

The painters were enrolled at Bruges as early as 1358 into a guild, which 
enjoyed the same privileges as any other corporation, and attained the highest 
reputation under Philip the Good, whose court at Bruges was resorted to by men 
of learning and science, as well as artists of the first eminence in Europe, in whose 
society he took great delight. It was in consequence of this patronage that the 
brothers Hubert and John Van Eyck (the latter sometimes called John of Bruges) 
settled there, and have left behind them so many proofs of their skill as painters, 
some of which still remain at Bruges, while their masterpiece, a subject from 
the Apocalypse, remains the chief ornament of St. Bavon, at Ghent. In the 
days of the Van Eycks the corporation consisted of more than 300 painters, who 
were enrolled on the hooks, and formed the most celebrated school of art of 
the time. 

Van Eyck, though not, as is sometimes stated, the original inventor of oil 
painting, may, at any rate, be justly termed the father of the art , as he introduced 
some improvement, either in the material or the mode of mixing and applying 
the colours, which produced a new effect, and was immediately brought into 
general use. Although oil painting had been previously practised in Italy, 
Giotto having mixed oil with his colours nearly 200 years before the time of 
Van Eyck, we find that an Italian artist, Antonello of 'Messina, made a joiuney 
to Flanders on purpose to learn this new method; and it is also recorded that 
Andrea del Castegna, to whom he imparted it, murdered a brother artist through 
whom the secret had been conveyed, in order to prevent the knowledge extending 
further. The depth and brightness of Van Eyck’s colours, which, if they can 
he equalled, are certainly not to he surpassed in the present day, and their perfect 
preservation, are truly a source of wonder and admiration, and prove with what 
rapid strides these artists had arrived at entire perfection in one very important 
department of painting. 

The works of the brothers Van Eyck are rare, and scarcely, for this reason, 
perhaps, appreciated as they deserve in England. With them must he associated 
Hans Memling, of the same school, whose masterpieces exist at Bruges in the 
hospital of St. John and in the Academy: no traveller should o mi t, to see them. 
If he have any love for. art, or any pretension to taste, he will not fail to 
admire the exquisite delicacy and feeling which they display, their brilliancy of 
colouring, and purity of tone. 

In contemplating the works of the early Flemish school, it must he borne in 
* See Kugler’s Handbook of Painting; German and Dutch Schools. 





99 


Belgium. § 27. works of art: van eyck and rubens. 

mind that the artists who attained to such excellence at so early a period had 
none of the classic works of antiquity to guide them, no great masters to imitate 
and study from: the path they struck out was entirely original; they had no 
models hut nature, and such nature as was before them. Hence it happens that 
their works exhibit a stiffness and formality, and a meagreness of outline, which 
are unpleasing to the eye, combined with a want of refinement which is often 
repugnant to good taste. Still these defects are more than counterbalanced by 
truth and force of expression, and not unfrequently by an elevation of sentiment 
in the representation of sacred subjects. The progress of the Flemish School 
may he traced, in an uninterrupted course, through the works of Quentin Matsys, 
Frans Floris, de Yos, the Breughels, and a number of artists little known in 
England, down to Otto Vennius, Rubens, and Yan Dvk. 

School of Rubens. —The ruling spirits of the second epoch of Flemish aid were 
Rubens and his distinguished pupil Yan Fyk. And here we shall again avail 
ourselves of the excellent observations of Sir Joshua Reynolds, being fully con¬ 
vinced of how great value they will prove to the young traveller. They will 
induce him not to rest satisfied with the name of a painter and the subject of a 
picture ; they will point out to him the beauties, the reason why such works 
are esteemed, and induce him to examine for himself, thus enabling him to form 
his taste, and to carry with him a perception of excellence by which he may 
exercise a critical judgment of painting in general. 

Character' of Rubens. —“ The works of men of genius alone, whore great faults 
are united with great beauties, afford proper matter for criticism. Genius is 
always eccentric, bold, and daring; which, at the same time that it commands 
attention, is sure to provoke criticism. It is the regular, cold, and timid com¬ 
poser who escapes unseen and deserves no praise. 

“The elevated situation on which Rubens stands in the esteem of the world 
is alone a sufficient reason for some examination of his pretensions. His fame 
is extended over a great part of the Continent without a rival; and it may be 
justly said that he has enriched his country, not in a figurative sense alone, by 
the great examples of aid which he left, hut by what some would think a more 
solid advantage,—the wealth arising from the concourse of strangers whom his 
works continually invite to Antwerp. To extend his glory still further, he gives 
to Paris one of its most striking features, the Luxemburg Gallery ; and if to these 
we add the many towns, churches, and private cabinets where a single picture of 
Rubens confers eminence, we cannot hesitate to place him in the first rank of 
illustrious painters. Though I still entertain the same general opinion both with 
regard to his excellences and defects, yet, having now seen his greatest compo¬ 
sitions, where he has more means of displaying those parts of his art in which he 
particularly excelled, my estimation of his genius is, of course, raised. It is only 
in large compositions that his powers seem to have room to expand themselves. 
They really increase in proportion to the size of the canvas on which they are to 
he displayed. His superiority is not seen in easel pictures, nor even in detached 
parts of his greater works, which are seldom eminently beautiful. It does not 
lie in an attitude, or in any peculiar expression, hut in the general effect,—in the 
genius which pervades and illuminates the whole. 

“The works of Rubens have that peculiar property always attendant on 
genius,—to attract attention and enforce admiration in spite of all their faults. 
It is owing to this fascinating power that the performances of those painters with 
which he is surrounded, though they have, perhaps, fewer defects, yet appear 
spiritless, tame, and insipid; such as the altar-pieces of Crayer, Schut, Segers, 
Huysum, Tyssens, Van Balen, and the rest. They are done by men whose 
hands, and indeed all their faculties, appear to have been cramped and confined ; 
and it is evident that everything they did was the effect of great labour and 
pains. The productions of Rubens, on the contrary, seem to flow with a free- 






100 


Sect. II. 


§ 27. RUBENS AS A PAINTER. 

tloni and prodigality, as if they cost him nothing; and to the general animation 
of the composition there is always a correspondent spirit in the execution of the 
work. The striking brilliancy of his colours, and their lively opposition to each 
other; the flowing liberty and freedom of his outline ; the animated pencil with 
which every object is touched,—all contribute to awaken and keep alive the 
attention of the spectator; awaken in him, in some measure, correspondent sensa¬ 
tions, and make him feel a degree of that enthusiasm with which the painter was 
carried away. To this we may add the complete uniformity in all the parts of 
the work, so that the whole seems to he conducted and grow out of one mind : 
everything is of a piece and fits its place. Even his taste of drawing and of 
form appears to correspond better with his colouring and composition than if he 
had adopted any other manner, though that manner, simply considered, might 
have been better. It is here, as in personal attractions, there is frequently found 
a certain agreement and correspondence in the whole together, which is often 
more captivating than mere regular beauty. 

“ Rubens appears to have had that confidence in himself which it is necessary 
for every artist to assume when he has finished his studies, and may venture in 
some measure to throw aside the fetters of authority; to consider the rules as 
subject to his control, and not himself subject to the rules; to risk and to dare 
extraordinary attempts without a guide, abandoning himself to his own sensa¬ 
tions, and depending upon them. To this confidence must be imputed that 
originality of manner by which he may be truly said to have extended the limits 
of the art. After Rubens had made up his manner, he never looked out of 
himself for assistance: there is, consequently, very little in his works that appears 
to be taken from other masters. If he has borrowed anything, he has had the 
address to change and adapt it so well to the rest of his work that the thief is not 
discoverable. 

“Besides the excellency of Rubens in these general powers, he possessed the 
true art of imitating. lie saw the objects of nature with a painter’s eye; he saw 
at once the predominant feature by which every object is known and distin¬ 
guished ; and as soon as seen, it was executed with a facility that is astonishing : 
and, let me add, this facility is to a painter, when he closely examines a picture, 
a source of great pleasure. How far this excellence may be perceived or felt by 
those who are not painters I know not: to them certainly it is not enough that 
objects be truly represented; they must likewise be represented with grace, which 
means here that the work is done with facility and without effort. Rubens was, 
perhaps, the greatest master in the mechanical part of the art, the best workman 
with his tools, that ever exercised a pencil. 

“This power, which Rubens possessed in the highest degree, enabled him to 
represent whatever he undertook better than any other painter. His animals, 
particularly lions and horses, are so admirable, that it may be said they were 
never properly represented but by him. His portraits rank with the best works 
of the painters who have made that branch of the art the sole business of their 
lives; and of these he has left a great variety of specimens. The same may be 
said of his landscapes ; and though Claude Lorraine finished more minutely, as 
becomes a professor in any particular branch, yet there is such an airiness* and 
facility in the landscapes of Rubens, that a painter would as soon wish to be the 
author of them as those of Claude, or any other artist whatever. 

“ The pictures of Rubens have this effect on the spectator, that he feels him¬ 
self in nowise disposed to pick out and dwell on his defects. The criticisms 
which are made on him are, indeed, often unreasonable. His style ought no 
more to be blamed for not having the sublimity of Michael Angelo, than Ovid 
should he censured because he is not like Virgil. * 

“However, it must be acknowledged that he wanted many excellences which 
would have perfectly united with his style. Among those we may reckon beauty 
in his female characters; sometimes, indeed, they make approaches to it; they 


101 


Belgium. § 27. character of rubers. 

are healthy and comely women, hut seldom, if ever, possess any degree of ele¬ 
gance : the same may be said of his young men and children. His old men 
have that sort of dignity which a bushy beard will confer; but he never pos¬ 
sessed a poetical conception of character. In his representations of the highest 
characters in the Christian or the fabulous world, instead of something above 
humanity, which might fill the idea which is conceived of such beings, the spec¬ 
tator finds little more than mere mortals, such as he meets with every day. 

“ The incorrectness of Rubens, in regard to his outline, oftener proceeds from 
haste and carelessness than from inability : there are in his great Works, to which 
he seems to have paid more particular attention, naked figures as eminent for 
their drawing as for their colouring. He appears to have entertained a great 
abhorrence of the meagre, dry manner of his predecessors, the old German and 
Flemish painters; to avoid which, he kept his outline large and flowing: this 
carried to an extreme, produced that heaviness which is so frequently found in 
his figures. Another defect of this great painter is his inattention to the foldings 
of his drapery, especially that of his women; it is scarcely ever cast with any 
choice of skill. Carlo Maratti and Rubens are, in this respect, in opposite 
extremes : one discovers too much art in the disposition of drapery, and the 
other too little. Rubens’s drapery, besides, is not properly historical; the 
quality of the stuff of which it is composed is too accurately distinguished, 
resembling the manner of Paul Veronese. This drapery is less offensive in 
Rubens than it would be in many other painters, as it partly contributes to that 
richness which is the peculiar character of his style, which we do not pretend 
to set forth as of the most simple and sublime kind. 

“ The difference of the manner of Rtibens from that of any other painter 
before him is in nothing more distinguishable than in his colouring, which is 
totally different from that of Titian, Correggio, or any of the great colourists. 
The effect of his pictures may be not improperly compared to clusters of flowers: 
all his colours appear as clear and as beautiful; at the same time he has avoided 
that tawdry effect which one would expect such gay colours to produce ; in this 
respect resembling Barocci more than any other painter. "What was said of an 
ancient painter may be applied to those two artists,—that their figures look as if 
they fed upon roses. 

“ It would be a curious and a profitable study for a painter to examine the 
difference, and the cause of that difference, of effect in the works of Correggio 
and Rubens, both excellent in different ways. The difference, probably, would 
be given according to the different habits of the connoisseur: those who had 
received their first impressions from the works of Rubens would censure Cor¬ 
reggio as heavy; and the admirers of Correggio would say Rubens wanted 
solidity of effect. There is lightness, airiness, and facility in Rubens, his advo¬ 
cates will urge, and comparatively a laborious heaviness in Correggio, whose 
admirers will complain of Rubens’s manner being careless and unfinished, whilst 
the- works of Correggio are wrought to the highest degree of delicacy; and what 
may be advanced in favour of Correggio’s breadth of light will, by his censurers, 
be called affected and pedantic. It must be observed that we are speaking solely 
of the manner, the effect of the picture; and we may conclude, according to the 
custom in pastoral poetry, by bestowing on each of these illustrious painters a 
garland, without attributing superiority to either. 

“To conclude,—I will venture to repeat, in favour of Rubens, what I have 
before said in regard to the Dutch school (§ 14),—that those who cannot see 
the extraordinary merit of this great painter, either have a narrow conception of 
the variety of art, or are led away by the affectation of approving nothing but 
what comes from the Italian school.”— Sir Joshua Reynolds. 

Belgium possesses at the present day a School of Living Painters , whose works 
have high claims to attention, and may be seen at the yearly exhibitions at 
Ghent, Antwerp, Brussels, as well as in the palaces, museums, and churches of 



102 


Sect. It. 


§ 28 . TOUR OF THE MEUSE. THE ARDENNES. 

the principal towns. The historical pictures of Wappers, de Keyzer, de Bietve, 
Leys, Navez, Wiertz, Gallait, Brakelaer, the animals of Verboekhoven, the 
woody landscapes of Hellemans, Meganck, and the genre pictures of Madou 
are worthy of being placed by the side of the best productions of any existing 
school. 


§ 28. Military Tours.—Tour of the Meuse.—The Ardennes. 


Students of military history, and officers of the army, will he interested in 
visiting the battle-fields of Belgium. For them we sketch the following 


Tour of the Waterloo Campaign. 


Days. 

1. Charleroi—walk or drive. 
Marchiennes. 

Dumpremy. 

2. By Gilly and Lambuzart to 
Fleurus. Ligny. 


Days. 

3. By Pointe du Jour and 
Sombreffe to Quatre Bras. 
Gemioncourt. 

Gemappes. 

Mont St. Jean. 

4. Waterloo. 


Belgium is not distinguished for its cities alone ; it possesses most picturesque 
scenery, especially in the valleys of the Meuse and its tributaries. That river, 
between Thionville in France and Liege, makes a w r ide sweeping semicircle, 
and receives from the country on its rt. hank its tributaries the Semois, Lesse, 
Our the, and Ambleve. Each of these rivers is remarkable for its winding- 
course and pleasing scenery, and all more or less deserve to be explored, the 
hanks of the Meuse itself being the most interesting. 

The centre of this district, from which most of these rivers take their rise, is 
the Ardennes ; a wild country of healthy heathy highlands ; but intersected by 
valleys of great beauty. It deserves the notice of English travellers far more 
than it has hitherto received. Without the sublimity of Switzerland, it has 
great beauty and picturesqueness, and, for those who are limited for time, it 
presents a fine field for pedestrian or carriage excursions, within 24 hours’ reach 
of England. 

It is very accessible, either by the river Meuse and the rly. along its banks, 
or by the Grand Luxemburg Ely., and by that from Spa to Luxemburg, which 
intersect it. On its borders are the towns of Liege, Spa, Namur, Dinant, and 
Luxemburg, any one of which forms an excellent starting-point. It is intersected 
by good roads, the result of constant labour since 1850. Still it is the fit and 
proper country for the pedestrian, especially if he he an angler, since many of the 
rivers afford a prospect of good sport. Their com-se is so winding, and bridges 
are so scarce, that he must he prepared to wade them from time to time; hut by 
the occasional aid of a guide, to indicate the fine points of view, and the short 
cuts by which he may diverge from the high road and avoid the loops of the 
rivers, he may make a very interesting tour of a week to 3 or 4 -weeks, according 
as his leisure may allow". The characteristic features of the Ardennes is wildness; 
heathy and rocky hills, with dark rapid streams winding round them ; vast forests 
of oak stretching over the plains and crowning the hills, peopled with deer, wild 
hoars, and wolves; villages at long intervals, dirty and poor; cottages thinly 
scattered among the valleys, and castles frowning from rocky heights, embosomed 
in woods. The Inns, small, simple, homely, for the most part, are mere village 
cabarets ; yet they are generally clean, and the traveller may live well on the 
fine mutton reared on the heathery hills, on wild boar and tame pig fed on 
acorns of the forest. Venison, roe, hare, and other game are common fare. The 
rivers afford small trout and grayling, on which the angler may exercise his 
skill, and crawffish. Nowhere is richer milk or more delicious honey. 



103 


Belgium. § 28 . tour of the meuse and ardbnnes. 

The Plan of a Tour, of the Meuse and Ardennes , chiefly on foot or horseback, 
which might commence with the course of the Meuse from Liege to Namur, and 
from Namur to Dinant. Ascent of the Lesse to Rochefort—the Trou de Han— 
Abbey of St. Hubert—Ely. to Arlon—Valley of the Semois to Bouillon and 
Mezi^res—Rly. to Luxemburg—Rly. to Diekirch, Vianden, Echternach. From 
Diekirch, by rail, either to Stavelot and Spa, or return to Luxemburg, and by 
rly. to Aye, and down the Ourthe to Liege. 


A. Valley of the Semois. 

Arlon. Rte. 29. 

Virton. Rte. 31. 

Abbey of Orval—ruins. Rte. 31. 
4 m. Florenville (H. de Commerce). 
Conques (ruined Abbey). 
Herbeumont (Cheval Blanc). 
Bouillon. Rte. 31. 

Alle ( Inn: Chez Hoffman). 
Bohan. 

Thilay Suspension Bridge. 
Montherme, at junction of Semois 
with Meuse—Slate Quarries— 
Abbey of Val Dieu. 

Mezieres, in France—Rly. stat. 

B. Valley of the Lesse. 

Dinant. 

Walzin Castle — ford Lesse to 
Chalais. 

Ardenne —through the Royal 
grounds. Cross Lesse by Ford. 
Houget (? Inn). 

Villers-sur-Lesse ( Inn poor). 
Eprave junction of L’Homme and 
Lesse. 

Rochefort. Rte. 29. 
Han-sur-Lesse—Cave. Rtes. 29- 

31. 

Mirwart Castle. 


St. Hubert Abbey. Rte. 29. 

Poix Stat. 

C. Valleys of the Ambleve and Ourthe. 

Spa. Rte. 25. 

Stavelot (Couronne). 

Trois Ponts (Chez Renard) junc¬ 
tion of Salm with Amhleve. 
Cascade of Coo. 

Chesneux. 

Quarreaux or Correaux (Valley 
strewn with rocks). 
Remouchamps (H. des Etrangers). 

Cave. Rte. 25. 

Path by the Ambleve, or boat. 
Aywaille. (Post.) 

Comblain au Pont (Chez Ninane), 
Suspension Bridge. 

Douflamme. 

Junction of Ambleve and Ourthe. 
Esneux. (Diligence to Liege.) 
Tilf. (H. d’Amiraute.) 

Liege. Rte. 25. 

D. From Spa , by Stavelot and Alt-Salm, to 

Houffalize. k ( Inn: H. des Arden¬ 
nes.) 

La Roche (H. du Nord). St. 
Hubert. Poix Stat. 








104 


ROUTE 15. —-DOVER TO CALAIS AND BRUSSELS. 


Sect. 11. 


ROUTES THROUGH BELGIUM. 


ROUTE 15. 

HOVER TO CALAIS AND BRUSSELS, BY 
LILLE AND TOURNAY.—RAIL. 

Many persons, especially in the winter 
season, prefer the shortest sea-voyage 
between England and the continent, on 
which account the following route 
through France is given here. 

At the Charing-Cross, Victoria, Can¬ 
non Street, or London Bridge Stations 
of the S.E. Bailway, also at Dover, 
passengers’ Baggage may be registered 
through to its destination, either to 
Brussels or Cologne, in which case the 
Bly. officials take charge of it; it is not 
opened by the way at landing or on 
the frontier. It is opened and ex¬ 
amined only at the place to which it is 
addressed. 

Steamers between Dover and Calais, 
twice daily each way, morning and 
evening, in 1 h to 2 hrs. Steamers direct 
to London in 11 hrs. 

At high-water the steamer lands its 
passengers close to the Bly. Stat., which 
adjoins Calais Pier. When the tide is 
low the steamer is obliged to stop near 
the end of the Pier, which is \ m. long, 
and it becomes advisable to engage 
porters, or to hire a carriage to convey 
ladies and baggage to the Bly. 

Calais. — Inns : the Station Hotel, 
fair. H. Dessin (formerly Quillac’s): 
the H. Dessin, where Steme and Sir 
Walter Scott lodged, in Bue Boyale, is 
converted into Baths, a Museum, and 
Schools. H. Meurice. H. de Paris, 
moderate. 

Calais has 12,727 Inhab.; it is a 
fortress of the 2nd class, with a large 
citadel and several forts, situated in a 
very barren and unpicture sque district, 
with sandhills raised by the wind and 
sea on the one side, and morasses on 
the other, contributing considerably to 
its military strength, but by no means to 


the beauty of its position. Since 1840 
the strength of its works has been greatly 
increased, especially seaward. An Eng¬ 
lish traveller of the time of James I. 
described it as “a beggarly, extorting 
town; monstrous dear and sluttish.” 
In the opinion of many this description 
will hold good down to the present time. 

The harbour , approached by 2 parallel 
wooden piers, one of them nearly f m. 
long, has 5 feet water over the bar at 
low-water spring-tides, not so deep as 
that of Boulogne. 

A Lighthouse of the first class, nearly 
190 ft. high, and visible 20 m. off, is 
erected near the outer ramparts. 

Except to an Englishman setting his 
foot for the first time on the Continent, 
to whom everything is novel, Calais, 
has little that is remarkable. After an 
hour or two it becomes tiresome, and 
a traveller will do well to quit it as 
soon as he has cleared his luggage at 
the custom-house. 

Calais has become a manufacturing 
town of some importance ; the bobbin- 
net (tulle) trade flomishes in rivalry of 
that of England; numerous mills have 
sprung up ; steam-engines are multi¬ 
plying ; and the inner ramparts have 
been removed, to make room for facto¬ 
ries. Gloves and hats are also made 
here, and the herring-fishery and cod- 
fishery are extensively earned on from 
it on the E. coast of Scotland and Ice¬ 
land. Water, which formerly was 
scarce here, as throughout Artois gene¬ 
rally, has been brought from the neigh¬ 
bourhood of Guines, and an artesian 
well is dug. 

The Pier of Calais is an agreeable 
promenade. Upon it is a column raised 
to commemorate the return of Louis 
XVIII. to France, which originally 
bore this inscription:— 

“Le 24 Avril, 1814,. S. M. Louis 
XVIII. debarqua vis-a-vis de cette co- 
lonne, et fut enfin rendu a 1’amour des 
Franqais; pour cn perpetucr lc souve- 




Belgium. 

nir la villo de Calais a eleve ce monu¬ 
ment.” “As an additional means of 
perpetuating this remembrance, a bra¬ 
zen plate bad been let into the pave¬ 
ment upon the precise spot where 
bis foot first touched the soil. It was 
the left; and an English traveller 
noticed it in his journal as a sinistrous 
omen, that, when Louis le Desire, after 
his exile, stepped on France, he did not 
put the right foot foremost.”— Quar¬ 
terly Review. At the revolution in 1830, 
both inscription and foot-mark in bronze, 
were removed, and are now to he seen 
in the Muste (ci-devant H. Dessin), 
Hue Royalc, along with some indifferent 
paintings and Rousseau’s chair (?) 

The principal Gate leading from the 
sea-side into the town is that intro¬ 
duced by Hogarth into his well-known 
picture of the “ Gates of Calais.” It 
was built by Cardinal Richelieu, 1635. 

Ho one needs to be reminded of the 
interesting incidents of the siege of 
Calais by Edward III., which lasted 
11 months, and of the heroic devotion 
of Eustace dc St. Pierre and his 5 
companions. Few, perhaps, are aware 
that the heroes of Calais not only went 
unrewarded by their own king and 
countrymen, but were compelled to beg 
their bread in misery through France. 
Calais remained in the hands of the 
English from 1347 to 1558, when it was 
taken by the Duke de Guise, with an 
army of 30,000 men, from a forlorn 
garrison of 500. It was the last relic 
of the Gallic dominions of the Planta- 
genets, which, at one time, compre¬ 
hended one half of France. Calais was 
dear to the English as the prize of the 
valour of their forefathers, rather than 
from any real value it possessed; and 
it is usually related that Queen Mary I. 
grieved so much at the loss as to say 
that on her death Calais would be found 
written on her heart. 

The traveller should look at the 
Hotel de Guise, at the end of Rue 
de la Prison, originally the guild¬ 
hall of the mayor and aldermen of the 
“ Staple of Wool,” established here by 
Edward III., 1363. It derives its pre¬ 
sent name from the Due dc Guise, to 
whom it was given by Henri II. after 


106 

his expulsion of the English. It has 
some vestiges of our Tudor architecture. 
Henry VIII. used to lodge in it. 

In the Great Market Place stands 
the Hotel de Ville (Town Hall), con¬ 
taining the municipal offices. In front 
of it are placed, on columns, busts of 
Eustace de St. Pierre; of Francis, 
2nd Due de Guise; and of Cardinal de 
Richelieu, who built the citadel on the 
W. of the town ; above it rises a belfry, 
containing the chimes. The high tower 
behind the Hotel de Ville, called La 
Tour du Guet , dates from 1214 ; it was 
used as a lighthouse until 1848. 

The principal Church (Notre Lame) 
was erected at the time when the Eng¬ 
lish were masters of Calais. It is a 
handsome Dec. Gothic edifice of the 14th 
centy.: a modern circular chapel has 
been thrown out behind the choir. It 
is surmounted by a stately tower and 
short steeple. 

The old town is built in the form of 
an oblong square, surrounded by old 
walls, having a gate towards the sea, 
and one on the land side. To the latter 
a large modern suburb has been at¬ 
tached, filled with busy factories, lace- 
mills (for bobbin-net= tulle) , and steam- 
engines. 

The icalls and the pier command a 
distinct view of the white cliffs of Eng¬ 
land. More than 2000 English arc 
said to find employment in the factories 
here. Many of our countrymen besides 
reside merely for the purpose of econo¬ 
mising; so that the place is half An¬ 
glicised, and our language is generally 
spoken. The number amounted at one 
time to 4800 English residents in and 
around the town. There is an Eng¬ 
lish chapel , Rue des Pretres; service on 
Sundays, 11 a.m. and 3 p.m. : also in 
the English ch. of St. Pierre-lbs-Calais, 
llj a.m. and 6| p.m. 

There is a small theatre; also a pub¬ 
lic library in the Hotel de Ville. There 
is a bathing establishment and bathing- 
machines on the shore. 

Steamboats to and from Dover daily. 
The S.E. and London, Chatham and 

• n O 

,F o 


ROUTE 15.— -CALAIS. 





106 


ROUTE 15 .*— ST. OMER. 


Sect. II. 


Dover Rly. Companies’ vessels leave 
Dover at 9\35 a.m. and 10‘40 p.m., and 
Calais at 1*15 p.m. and 2 a.m. The pas¬ 
sage is made in 1 ^-2 hrs. At low water, 
when steamers cannot enter Calais har¬ 
bour, of rare occurrence, passengers are 
landed in boats (charge 3 fr.), and 
must wait for their luggage until the 
vessel enters with the tide. Steamers 
direct to London in 10 hrs. twice a 
week. 

Railways to Arras and Paris — to 
Boulogne, Amiens, and Paris, the 
shortest and quickest way, Mail Express. 
•—See Handbook for France. 


Rail, Calais by Brussels to Tournay 
6 trains daily in 5 to 7 hrs. 

• On leaving the Terminus on the Quai 
the line to Paris skirts the N.E. angle 
of the Citadel. 

2 m. St Pierre-les-Calais Stat. This 
is a great manufacturing suburb of 
Calais (17,294 Inhab.) more populous 
than the town itself. There are many 
tulle manufactories here, established by 
English capitalists since 1819. A great 
number of English weavers are settled 
here, for whose use a neat Gothic ch. 
was built 1862. rt. The line to Bou¬ 
logne diverges. 

The country about Calais and St. 
Omer is like parts of Holland, low and 
intersected by ditches, and traversed by 
rows of pollard willows and osiers, use¬ 
ful for making baskets. It is drained 
by the canal de St. Omer, which falls 
into the sea at Calais : the tides are kept 
out by embankments and locks. The vil¬ 
lages are composed chiefly of mud cot¬ 
tages. The peasants, men as well as 
women, are frequently seen mounted 
on high pattens to avoid the mud. 

7 m. Ardres Stat. a dismantled for¬ 
tress. 2189 Inhab. The town 3 m. 
from the stat. 

The plain between this place and 
Guines, a little to the W. of the road, 
is the Field of the Cloth of Gold , the 
scene of the meeting between Henry 
VIII. and Francis I., 1520, with their 
suites of 5696 persons and 4325 horses, 


\ 

so, called from the cloth of gold with 
which the tents and pavilions of the 
monarchs were covered. The Field is 
4 m. from Guines, near the village of 
Balinghem, 2 m. from Ardres. 

5 m. Audruick Stat. 

7 m. Watten Stat. 

5| m. St. Omer Stat., outside the old 
bastions. Inns : H. d’Angleterre; H. 
de France; Grande Stc. Catherine. 

This is a third-rate fortress, whose 
means of defence lie less in its actual 
fortifications than in the marshes which 
surround it, and the facility afforded by 
the river Aa, on which it stands, of 
flooding the land round about, so as to 
leave only J of its circuit unprotected 
by the waters. Although it contains a 
population of 21,869 souls, it is a dull 
place. There are, however, two eccle¬ 
siastical edifices worthy of notice. 

The Cathedral of Notre Dame , at the 
upper end of the Rue St. Bertin, is a 
fine building, showing the transition 
from the round to the pointed style. The 
arrangement of the chapels round the 
apse is very good. Transepts very 
large. Obs. the S. transept doorway, 
and the incised slabs removed from the 
floor and placed against the walls of a 
S. side-chapel. 

rt. Close to the Stat., at the opposite 
extremity of the same street, stand the 
scanty remains of the famous Benedic¬ 
tine Abbey Ch. of St. Bertin , at one time 
the noblest Gothic monument of French 
Flanders—in its present state a dis¬ 
grace to the town, and a reproach to 
Government; for be it known that its 
destruction has been perpetrated since 
1830 ! At the outbreak of the great Re¬ 
volution the monastery was suppressed: 
the Convention spared the Church; and 
though, under the Directory, it was sold 
for the materials, unroofed, and stripped 
of its woodwork and metal, yet its walls 
remained comparatively uninjured, until 
the magistrates barbarously pulled it 
down to afford employment to some 
labourers out of work, and to build the 
new Hotel de Ville. The fragment 






107 


Belgium. route 15 

remaining consists of a stately tower, 
built in the 15thcenty. (1431-1520), dis¬ 
playing ornaments of the florid Gothic 
in the mutilated panelling on its walls, 
and hits of tracery in its windows; a 
small portion of the nave remains at¬ 
tached to it. The tower threatening to 
fall has been propped up by an ugly, 
ill-contrived buttress of masonry ; there 
is some talk of converting it into a 
museum. The town is well seen from 
its top, but there is nothing else of 
interest in the view. Within the walls 
of the Abbey of St. Bertin the feeble 
Childeric III., the last king of the first 
race, ended his days in 755; here also, 
Becket sought refuge when a fugitive 
from England. 

The other objects of interest at St. 
Omer are the churches of St. Sepulchre 
(14th centy.) and of St. Denis; the 
modern Hotel de Ville; the Artillery 
Arsenal, one of the most remarkable 
in the N. of France; the Museum in 
the Hotel du Balliage, on the Grand 
Place ; the Lycee containing the Public 
Library. 

A Seminary for the education of Eng¬ 
lish and Irish Roman Catholics exists 
here: it has replaced the Jesuits’ College 
founded by Father Parsons for the edu¬ 
cation of Englishmen. Daniel O’Con¬ 
nell was brought up here for the priest¬ 
hood; and several of the conspirators 
engaged in the Gunpowder Plot were 
pupils of the same school. There are 
not more than 15 or 20 students at pre¬ 
sent. A large military hospital occu¬ 
pies the site of the convent and chapel 
in which Dr. Alban Butler, author of 
‘ Lives of the Saints/ was buried (1773). 
Several English reside here. 

English Chapel , Rue du Bon Pasteur: 

Sunday, ll and 3. 

Canals to Calais and to Aire. 

Lille Junction St at. 

Lille. (Flem. Rijssel.)— Inns: II. de 
PEurope, the best; H. de France; H. 
du Nouveau Monde; H. l’Avocat, 
commercial; H. du Buffet at the Stat., 
not good. 


.*—LILLE. 

This city is important both as a for¬ 
tress of the first order for its strength, 
forming the central point of the defence 
of France on her N. frontier, and as a 
populous and industrious seat of manu¬ 
factures, ranking seventh among the 
cities of France. Pop. 154,749. It is 
chief town of the Dept, du Nord, and 
was formerly capital of French Flan¬ 
ders. The canals of the Haute May- 
enne and Basse Deule traverse it, 
filling its moats and turning the wheels 
of its mills, and they are connected by 
a canal, by means of which the country 
for 1^ m. around the citadel and walls 
can be laid under water. 

There are no fine public buildings 
proportioned to the size and wealth of 
the city; its monuments have been 
levelled by shells and shot, and its objects 
of interest for the passing traveller, 
unless he be a military man, are few. 
The old fortifications from the rly. 
stat. round to the citadel have been 
removed, and a wall, with a gallery on 
arches, 4 m. in circuit, has been 
thrown out. 

The Citadel passed for a masterpiece 
of the skill of Yauhan, who was go¬ 
vernor of it for many years. It is a 
regular pentagon, furnished with all the 
accessories which engineering skill can 
suggest, especially since the siege of 
1792, and so strong, because commanded 
by no point, and capable of isolation by 
breaking the canal dykes, and filling its 
wide moats, that it is deemed impreg¬ 
nable. A great deal of misery, how¬ 
ever, and enormous destruction of pro¬ 
perty and injury to agriculture, would 
follow such an inundation. The citadel 
is separated from the town by the Espla¬ 
nade , a wide space for military exer¬ 
cises, parallel to which is the handsome 
promenade or public walk, planted with 
trees and traversed by the canal. Lille 
was captured from the Spaniards by 
Louis XIV. in 1667, in whose honour 
the Triumphal Arch at the end of the 
Rue de Paris was erected. At different 
periods, and under different masters, it 
has stood 7 distinct sieges; the one most 
memorable for an Englishman, and one 
of the most memorable on record, was 
that by the allied armies of Marlborough 



108 


ROUTE 15 . —LILLE. 


and Eugene, in 1708, of three months’ 
duration, during which the war was not 
merely waged above ground, but the 
most bloody combats were fought belo w 
the surface between the miners of the 
opposite armies, each endeavouring to 
sap and undermine the galleries of his 
opponent. The siege was considered an 
act of great rashness, as the French in 
the field under Vendome were actually 
as numerous as Marlborough’s army, 
and advanced to relieve the place. 
Marlborough, however, took up his 
position so skilfully that the relieving 
army was unable to effect anything, 
and Boufflers, the French commander 
of the town, after a masterly defence, 
was compelled to capitulate, but upon 
most honourable terms. It was finally 
restored to France by the treaty of 
Utrecht, 1715. In the Grande Place is 
a granite column siu’mounted by an 
allegorical statue of Lille, in memory 
of the citizens who fell in the bombard¬ 
ment of 1792, of 9 days, by the Austri¬ 
ans, under the Duke of Saxe Coburg, 
who was compelled to raise the siege. 

The Bourse, a richly ornamented 
building, in the Spanish style, erected 
1652. In the court is a statue of 
Napoleon I., as protector of National 
Industry. 

The Hotel de Ville , in the Place 
Eihour, was mostly rebuilt 1849, but 
retains portions of 15th centy. A brick 
Gothic gatehouse and towers, which are 
parts of an ancient palace of the Dukes 
of Burgundy, built by Jean-sans-Peur, 
1430, and inhabited by'the Emp. Charles 
V. The Council chamber (Salle du 
Conclave ) was painted by A. de Vuez, 
1726. The second floor of the building, 
appropriated to a * Museum and School 
of Art, contains a most interesting and 
valuable collection of Drawings by the 
old Italian masters , upwards of 1300 in 
number, including several by Raphael, 
Masaccio, Fra Bartolomeo, Leonardo da 
Vinci, and nearly 200 (mostly archi¬ 
tectural) by Michael Angelo, well worthy 
the inspection of all who take an in¬ 
terest in art. They were left to the city 
by Chev. Wicar, a native of Lille, who 
had resided for many years in Borne. 
Beyond the Musee Wicar is an Ethno- 


Sect. II 

• 

graphical collection, also the gift of a 
citizen, M. Moillet. Among a number 
of mediocre pictures, are two by Rubens, 
a Death of the Magdalen, and the Virgin 
and St. Francis, both from a ch. at 
Ghent; Van Dyk, a Crucifixion. The 
St. Cecilia and St. Francis are by Ar¬ 
nold de Vuez (a native artist of consi¬ 
derable merit, b. 1642); there is a series 
of old portraits of the Dukes of Bur¬ 
gundy and Counts of Flanders. 

The Public Libraiy ( Bibliotheque Com- 
munale), in the same building, contains 
35,000 vols. and several MSS. 

St. Maurice, the principal Ch., close to 
the Bly. Stat., is in the Gothic style 
of the 16th centy., resting on slender 
piers, with double aisles on each side 
of the nave, all of equal height. It has 
been well restored. A Romanesque- 
Byzantine Ch. with a tall spire has 
been built in the Faubourg Wazemmes 
(1860). N. Dame de la Treille is a 
Gothic building, begun 1860, by a 
Lillois architect. 

The huge storehouses for corn, at the 
extremity of the Bue Boyale, a street 
nearly a mile long, deserve notice. 
There are some very handsome shops in 
the Rue Esquermoise. In the centre of the 
Promenade, adjoining the canal of the 
Moyenne Deule and Esplanade, a statue 
has been erected to General Negrier , 
slain in the republican revolt of June 
25th, 1848, at Paris, in. putting down 
the insurgents. 

No city in France has undergone, of 
late years, greater improvements than 
Lille. To include its fauxbourgs the 
greater part of the fortified walls have 
been pulled down, and handsome Bou¬ 
levards opened on their sites ; amongst 
which deserve particular notice—the B. 
de VImperatrice, a charming Public 
Garden, dazzling with flowers, and B. 
Vauban, each nearly a mile long, on the 
W. side of the town; the Rue Imperiale, 
extending from the Grand Place to the 
ancient suburb of Wazemmes; the 
Square de la Reine Hortense; and the 
handsome Place Napoleon III., near 
the site of the Porte Bethune. 

English Protestant Ch. Service, Bue 
du Cure St. Etienne. 





ROUTE 15. —TOURNAY* 


109 


Belgium■. 

The tall chimneys of numerous mills, 
even within the walls, announce the 
active industry which is working here, 
and show the unusual combination of a 
fortress and manufacturing town; while 
the country around, and indeed a large 
part of the Departement du Nord, is like 
a hive in population and activity, not 
unworthy of being compared with parts 
of Lancashire and the West Riding. 
The chief manufacture is that of flax, 
which is extensively grown in the vici¬ 
nity, and is spun into ordinary thread, 
and twisted to form the kind called Lille 
thread, by old-fashoned machines moved 
by the hand ; besides which much linen 
is woven here. In the spinning of cotton 
Lille has become a rival of Manchester 
and Rouen. The extraction of oils from 
rape or colza and the seeds of poppies, 
linseed, &c., and the manufacture of 
sugar from beetroot are very important, 
having given a great impulse to agri¬ 
culture, as well as employing many 
thousand hands and hundreds of wind¬ 
mills. 

There arc not less than 600 wind¬ 
mills in the commune des Moulins: 
they are used for crushing rape-seed 
and other oleaginous grains for oil. 

Lille to Brussels by Tournay, 

134 kilom.=84 Eng. m. 

7 k. Asiq Stat. 

5 k. Baiseux Stat. French Douane. 

Blandain Stat. Belgian frontier and 
Douane. 

Registered baggage is not opened 
here. 

7 k. Tournay Stat., on the rt. bank 
of the Schelde. (Flem. Doornijk). 
Inns: H. de lTmperatrice, clean; 
Singe d’Or, good. A fortified town of 
31,172 Inhab., on the Schelde, whose 
banks are faced with masonry, so as 
to contract the river into a navigable 
channel, and form at the same time 
handsome Quais on each side. It is a 
flourishing and increasing town, a place, 
of great manufacturing industry. The 
workmen labour chiefly at home, not in 
large factories, which gives the town 
a more cheerful character. The car¬ 
pets, commonly called Brussels, come 
iu fact from Tournay ; the art of 


weaving them was brought hither, ac¬ 
cording to tradition, from the East by 
Flemings, who served in the Crusades, 
and learned it from the Saracens. The 
principal manufactory (called la manu¬ 
facture royale ), though fallen off, still 
occupies 90 looms and about 2400 per¬ 
sons. Its products cannot be purchased 
here, but at Brussels. Stockings also 
are made here. 

Tom-nay is supposed to be the Civitas 
Nerviorum mentioned by Ceesar in the 
Commentaries. It was the early seat 
of the chiefs of the Salian Francs: 
Chilperic died here ; Clovis was born 
and resided here. Immense sums have 
been expended on the fortifications since 
the peace, and a new citadel constructed. 
It was considered one of the strongest 
fortresses on the outer line nearest to 
France, and endured many sieges from 
English, French, and Spaniards. The 
most memorable, perhaps, was that of 
1581, by the Prince of Parma, when the 
defence was conducted by a woman, 
Christine, Princess id’Espinoi, of the 
noble family of Lalaing.- She is said to 
have united the skill of a prudent gene¬ 
ral to the most intrepid bravery. Though 
wounded in the arm, she refused to quit 
the ramparts, and at length only yielded 
to capitulation when three-fourths of 
her garrison had fallen around her. 

A bronze Statue of her, by Dutrieux, 
has been erected on the Grande Place. 

Henry VIII. took Tournay, 1513 ; 
and bestowed the see on his favourite 
Wolsey, who, bribed by the offer of 
Francis I.’s interest in obtaining for 
him the papacy, not only yielded up the 
bishopric, but induced his master to sell 
the town to the French King in 1518. 

The most interesting edifice in the 
town is the * Cathedral, the largest in 
Belgium of the Romanesque style; 
conspicuous from all sides with its 5 
stately towers: it is exceedingly fine, 
especially in its interior. It was founded 
by King Childeric, whose capital Tournay 
was. Large part of the existing building 
is as old as the 12th centy. It is 400 ft. 
long. The nave consists of a double tier of 
arches—the upper forming a grand gal¬ 
lery—nearly equal in height, massive 
and grand, surmounted by triforium 
and clerestory in the same style. The 





110 


ROUTE 15. —TOURNAY. 


Sect. II. 


transepts, built about 1146, terminate 
in apses , the most beautiful feature of 
the ch. “ Notwithstanding a certain 
rudeness of detail, they are certainly 
the finest productions of their age, and 
as magnificent a piece of architecture 
as can be conceived. The choir, 110 ft. 
high, as it at present stands, was dedi¬ 
cated 1338 ; and though displaying a 
certain beauty of proportion, and the 
most undoubted daring of construction, 
its effect is frail and weak. It was 
found necessary to double the thickness 
of the piers after they were erected.”— 
Fergusson’s Architecture. The AV. front 
has been disfigured by various altera¬ 
tions ; a groined porch in the Pointed 
style extends the whole length of the 
front, and above it a large rose window 
has been introduced. The N. and S. 
portals, adjoining the transepts, enriched 
with antique sculptures, deserve notice. 
The choir is separated from the nave 
by a roodscreen (date 1566), an incon¬ 
gruous composition of varied marbles in 
the Italian style, with bas-reliefs of the 
Passion, &c., inserted, surmounted by a 
statue of St. Michael. The old painted 
glass is attributed to Steuerbout; that 
of the choir is modern, by Capronnier. 
At the side of the high altar is placed 
the Gothic shrine of St. Eleutherius 
(Bp. of Tom-nay in the 5th cent.), of 
silver gilt, of very rich workmanship 
(date 1247), and adorned with pre¬ 
cious stones, surrounded by figures 
of the 12 apostles. At the first French 
revolution this church was not only 
stripped of its revenues, but pillaged 
and defaced. The shrin e escaped through 
the zeal of a citizen of the town, who 
buried it. The chapter is now sup¬ 
ported by the Government, which has 
also laid out 20,000£. most judiciously 
in restoring the building. There is 
a painting by Rubens, the Souls in 
Purgatory, in the master’s character¬ 
istic style; on the S. of the choir 
Christ giving Sight to the Blind by 
Gallait, 1838, and in the Sacristy, among 
a gorgeous collection of priestly robes, 
is the mantle of the Empr. Charles V., 
worn at the 20th Chapter of the Golden 
Fleece, held in this church 1531; and 
an embroidered silk chasuble of St. 
Thomas Becket. 


King Childeric I., the father of Clovis, 
and whom some consider the real founder 
of the French monarchy, died in 482, 
and was buried in the church of St. Brice 
(12th centy.), on the rt. bank of the 
Schelde. In his coffin were found (1655) 
a chasse of gold bearing his head, still 
preserved here, and many other curio¬ 
sities now deposited in the Biblotheque 
du Boi at Paris; among them the “ Gol¬ 
den Bees,” with which his royal robes 
are supposed to have been studded. They 
were, in consequence, adopted by Buo¬ 
naparte in his coronation vestments, in 
preference to the fleurs de lis , as symbols 
of the imperial dignity. 

St. Quentin , in the triangular Grande 
Place, is a very elegant Church in the 
transition style from round to pointed. 
At the end of the Grande Place is the 
Beffroi, the oldest in Belgium, a fine 
tower of the 12th century, on a base 
said to be Roman. Spire modern. One 
of its bells is inscribed— 

“ Banclocque suis de commune nommee 
Car pour effroi de guerre suis sonnee.” 

Post Office, Rue du Cure Notre Dame. 

The Convent of St. Martin (b. 1770), 
is converted into an Hotel de Yille. In 
it are a few modem paintings, including 
the dead bodies of Egmont and Horn, 
by Gallait, a native of Tournai. Ad¬ 
joining it is a shady walk called the 
Park, and the Botanic Garden. There 
are some interesting specimens of do¬ 
mestic architecture in Tournay. 

Perkin AVarbeck, the pretender to 
the throne of Henry VII., who gave 
himself out as one of the princes mur¬ 
dered in the Tower, was, by his own con¬ 
fession, the son of a Jew of Tournay. 

At Vaulx, famous for its stone-quar¬ 
ries, on the banks of the Schelde, 2 m. 
from Tournay, is a square structure with 
turrets in the corners, said to be of 
Roman origin, probably of the 11th or 
12th centy. 

The valley of the Schelde around 
Tournay is very fertile, producing much 
com. Lime is found in abundance : it 
is quarried in many places and exported 
far and wide. 

A pleasant walk of 1* hr. will take 
the stranger (or 1 hr.’s drive) to Mt. St. 





ROUTE 15. —ATH. ENGHIEN. 


Ill 


Belgium. 

Aubert, which, though a moderate eleva¬ 
tion, commands an extensive view. 

[About 5 m. S.E. of Tournay lies 
the battle-field of Fontenoy, where the 
English under the Duke of Cumber¬ 
land, with the Dutch and Austrians, 
were defeated in 1745 by the French 
under Marshal Saxe, who was at the 
time so ill as to he unable to sit on 
horseback or to wear armour, and wa3 
therefore carried in a litter. Though 
the result was unfavourable to the Eng¬ 
lish, the skill shown by their com¬ 
manders and the bravery of the troops 
were highly creditable to them. The 
fortune of the day was in some measure 
decided by the Irish battalions in the 
pay of France. Louis XY. had his head¬ 
quarters in *the Castle of Antoing, 4^ 
m. from Tournay, the picturesque ruins 
of which remain, including a lofty keep 
tower, whose top commands the best 
view of the battle-field. It belongs to 
the Prince de Ligne. In its church, are 
some curious monuments in black stone 
with effigies of Counts of Melun. Inn, 
Cigne.] 

9 Havennes Stat. 

5 Bary Maulde Stat. 

6 lueuzeJunct. Stat. A town of 5700 
Inhab. on the Dender. Rly. from 
Ghent to Mons by Audenaerde, crosses 
our line here. 

7 Ligne Stat. 

5 Ath Junct. Stat.— (Inns: Cigne, 
good; Paon d’Or.)—Ath on the Den¬ 
der, with 8500 Inhab., was a fortress 
upon which Yauban employed his utmost 
skill, and its works were strengthened 
after 1815 ; but it is now dismantled. 
It is a flourishing manufacturing town. 

The principal buildings are the Hotel 
de Ville , a structure of the time of the 
Archduke Albert (1600), and the 
Church of St. Julien , founded in 1393, 
destroyed by lightning, except its E. 
end, in 1817, and since rebuilt, but 
without its tall steeple. The most 
ancient monument in the town is a tower 
called Tour du Burbard, which probably 
dates from 1150. 

Railway by Grammont and Ninove to 
Alost, Brussels, and Termonde (Rte. 19). 


About 6 m. from Ath, on the road to 
Mons, is Belceil , the patrimonial estate of 
the Princes de Ligne since 1394. The 
celebrated diplomatist, soldier, and au¬ 
thor of this family gives in his letters 
a long description of his country seat 
and gardens: they were laid out in 
the formal French taste by Le Notre, 
and excited the admiration of Delille, 
who mentions this spot in his poem 
‘ Les Jardins,’ as— 

“ Belceil tout a la fois rnagnifique et cham- 
petre. 

Both Voltaire and Delille visited the 
Prince in his retirement here. The 
Castle, founded 1146, surrounded by wa¬ 
ter, has been rebuilt in indifferent taste. 
It contains a fine Library ; some interest¬ 
ing historical relics and works of art; 
paintings by Diirer, Holbein, Yan Dyk, 
Velazquez, L. da Vinci, Salv. Bosa; 
portraits of more than 100 Princes de 
Ligne ; the swords with which Egmont 
and Hoorn were beheaded; also a collec¬ 
tion of firearms, from their invention, 
i The number and length of the avenues 
and high hornbeam hedges, with win¬ 
dows cut in them, intersecting the 
grounds in all directions, form the sin - 
gular and characteristic feature of the 
Park. The Conservatories contain a 
first-rate collection of rare plants. 

9 Ghislenghen Stat. 

5 Bassilly Stat. 

9 k. Enghien Stat., a town of 3680 
Inhab. It was an ancient possession of 
the houses of Luxemburg and Bourbon, 
but was sold by Henry IV., King of 
France, to the Duke d’Aremberg, in 
1607, and still remains in the posses¬ 
sion of his family. The chateau 
was destroyed at the French Revo¬ 
lution ; but the beautiful park and 
gardens deserve notice. They served, 
it is said, as a model for the famous 
gardens of Versailles, and are laid out 
in the same formal style, with avenues, 
temples, statues, canals, basins, a fine 
conservatory, &c. Seven avenues of 
beech and horse-chesnuts diverge from 
a temple in the park. 

8 k. Saintes Stat. Rly. cuts through 
some fine forest scenery. 




112 


Sect. II. 


ROUTE 15A. —LILLE TO BRUSSELS. COURTRAI. 


7 k. Hal Junct. Stat. in Rte. 32. T e 
train now runs on the State Ely. from 
Brussels to Mons. 1. See the fine Old 
Ch. of Notre Dame. 

3 Buysingen Stat. 

2 Loth Stat. 

3 Ruysbroelc Stat. 

2 Forest Stat. 

5 Brussels Stat da Midi (Rte. 23). 
Registered baggage is here examined. 


ROUTE 15a. 

LILLE TO BRUSSELS, BY COURTRAI AND 
GHENT. 

150 kilom. = 93f Eng. m. 

10 k. Roubaix Stat. This industrious 
town, of 24,000 Inhab., has considerable 
cotton manufactories. Near it the Eng¬ 
lish, under the Duke of York, met with 
a severe defeat from the French under 
Pichegru, May 18, 1794, losing 1000 
killed, 2000 prisoners, and 60 cannon. 

3 Tourcoing Stat. (Inn, Cygne, dirty.) 
This town, with 20,000 Inhab., is famed 
for its manufacture of carpets and wool¬ 
len yarn. In 1794 the Duke of York’s 
force was here surrounded by the French, 
and 1500 men, with fifty guns, cap¬ 
tured. The Duke escaped only by the 
fleetness of his horse. 

5 Mouscron Junct. Stat. Buffet not 
good. 7244 Inhab. Belgian custom¬ 
house, and junction of the railway from 
Tournay. Here the train enters the 
line of Chcmins de Fer de l’Etat. 

12 Courtrai, Stat. (Flemish Kor- 
trijk). Inns : Damier, good and cheap; 
—Lion d’Or, in the Great Place. 
Buffet at the Stat. 

A manufacturing town of 22,500 In¬ 
hab., on the Lys, remarkable for its 
cleanliness and for the table damask and 
other linen made here, which is sent to 


all parts. An immense quantity of 
flax of very fine quality is culti¬ 
vated in the surrounding plain, and 
supplies not only the manufactories of 
the town, but many of the markets of 
Europe. There are large bleaching- 
grounds in the neighbourhood, the 
waters of the Lys being supposed to 
possess qualities favourable for bleaching 
as well as for the steeping of flax. The 
first Flemish cloth manufacture was 
established here in 1260. 

The principal buildings are the Hotel 
de Ville in the market-place, a Gothic 
edifice, built 1526, restored 1860. It 
contains two very singular carved 
chimney-pieces, containing figures of 
the Virtues and Vices, bas-reliefs of 
subjects relating to the municipal 
and judicial destination of the building, 
and to events in the early history 
of the town, including a procession of 
women on horseback, holding a ban¬ 
ner in one hand and a dagger in the 
other. Many of them may be styled 
caricatures in bas-relief. They bear the 
date of 1587 and 1595. The statues of 
Charles V., and of the Archduke Albert 
and Archduchess Isabella, occupy con¬ 
spicuous places. 

The Church of Notre Dame is a Gothic 
edifice, founded 1238 by Bald-win Count 
of Flanders and Empr. of Constantinople, 
but modernised. It contains behind 
the high altar a celebrated painting 
by Vandyk , the Raising of the Cross. 
The drawing is bold and powerful, re¬ 
minding one of Rubens; only the 
colouring is inferior to his in freshness. 
Vandyk’s autograph letter, acknow¬ 
ledging with thanks the receipt of the 
money for the painting, as well as of 
some gauffres , a thin sweet cake, for 
which Courtrai is still celebrated, pre¬ 
sented to him by the canons, is still in 
existence. In the Count's Chapel, an 
elegant Gothic structure, built 1374, 
attached to this ch., the spurs of the 
French knights killed at the battle of 
Courtrai were formerly suspended to 
the roof. Curious bas-reliefs, represent¬ 
ing the 7 mortal sins, run round the 
wall, under the windows. 

In St, Martin's Ch ., N.' side of choir, is 





Belgium, route 15b. —courtrai to 

a beautiful tabernacle or shrine of carved 
stonework, in the richest Gothic style— 
date probably end of the 15th cent.— 
for holding the sacrament; also a 
carved pulpit. These escaped a con¬ 
flagration caused by lightning 1862, 
which destroyed great part of the ch. 

It is being restored. 

There is a Museum of modern paint¬ 
ings, Hue de Chaussee, near the Bcffroi. 

Two ancient Towers (Broelen Toren) 
of solid masonry (dates 1413-65) alone 
Avere left standing on the banks of the 
Lys, when the fortifications were de¬ 
stroyed by Louis XIV. in 1684. The 
old bridge and its flanking towers make 
a picturesque group. 

Under the walls of Courtrai was fought 
the Battle of Golden Spurs , 1302 (not to 
be confounded with the “ Battle of 
Spurs ” in which ITenry VIII. put the 
French chivalry to flight, 1513), gained 
by an army of 20,000 Flemings, prin¬ 
cipally weavers of Ghent and Bruges, 
under the Count de Namur, over the 
French under the Count d’ Artois, 
brother of Philip le Bel and Constable 
of France, in which the latter was slain, 
and with him 1200 knights, while 
several thousand common soldiers were 
left dead on the field. 700 gilt spurs 
(an ornament worn only by the French 
nobility) were gathered on the field 
from the dead, and hung up as a 
trophy in the church of the convent 
of Groeniguen, now destroyed: from 
this circumstance the battle receives 
its name. A small chapel, built 1831, 
on the rt. of the road, a little way out¬ 
side the Porte de Gand, marks the 
centre of the battle-field. 

Excursion , by rail, to Ypres (Rte. 16.) 

Railway Courtrai to Bruges, in ltte. 
21a.; also to Fumes, to Tournay and 
Ypres, to Audenaerde (Rte. 15b). 

Heule Stat. 

6 Haerlebeke Stat. 

8 k. Waereghem Stat. 4 m. N.W. of 
this is the village of Roosbecke, near 
which Philip van Artevelde, the brewer 
of Ghent, was defeated, in 1382, by the 
French, and, with 20,000 of his country¬ 
men, perished in the battle.—See Tay¬ 
lor’s Philip van Artevelde. 


BRUSSELS BY AUDENAERDE. 113 

6 Olsene Stat. 

3 Machclen Stat. 

7 Deynze Stat. This town (4000 In- 
hab.) is situated on the 1. bank of the Lys. 
On the opposite bank, between the rail- 

j road and the river, is Peteghem. The 
old castle here was the residence of the 
French kings of the second race. Ely. 
to Thielt and Courtrai. 

5 Nazareth Stat. 

12 Ghent Stat. Hence to Mechlin, 
see Rte. 21; and for the Railway from 
Mechlin to Brussels, sec Rte. 23. 


ROUTE 15b. 

COURTRAI to BRUSSELS, BY AUDEN¬ 
AERDE. 

This is the shortest way by 

Anseghem Stat. 

OudenardeStat. (Flem. Audenaerde)— 
Inns: Pomme d’Or; Lion d’Or —12 
m. It is a town of 6300 * Inhab., 
on the Schelde, containing one of the 
handsomest *Town Malls in the Nether¬ 
lands, though small in size, built 1525- 
30, in the flamboyant Gothic style. In 
front runs an arcade of great elegance, 
supporting a balcony, above which rises 
a tower not unlike that of Brussels, but 
smaller. It contains a fine chimney- 
piece. The Ch. of St. Walburga is also 
handsome, possesses an Assumption by 
Crayer, and the tomb of Claude Jalon : 
JV. Dame de Pamele is of elegant Gothic 
(date 1239), and contains 2 old monu¬ 
ments. The tower called het Saechsen, 
and the bridge of the Porte d’Eyne, are 
very ancient structures. This is the 
birthplace of MargaretDuchess of Parma, 
governess of the Low Countries under 
Philip II., and natural daughter of 
Charles V., by Margaret van Geest, a 
lady of this place. The battle of Oude- 
narde, fought under its Avails in 1708, 







114 


ROUTE 16 . -CALAIS TO COURTRAI. 


Sect. II. 


was gained over the French by the 
English, in a great measure through the 
personal prowess and exertions of Marl¬ 
borough. 

At the entrance of the town a female 
figure by Geefs, bearing a wreath 
of immortelles, has been set up as 
a monument to the Belgian volunteers 
killed in Mexico, 1865. Bail to 
Ghent. 

Sotteghem Stat. fin a vault imder 
the ch. of Sotteghem are buried Lamoral 
Count Egmont, beheaded by Alva, his 
wife, and his 2 sons. Here are some 
remains of his castle.] 

Denderleeuw Junct. Stat. (See Btes. 
19 and 15.) 

Brussels Stat. (Bte. 23.) 


ROUTE 16. 

CALAIS TO COURTRAI, BY DUNKIRK AND 
YPRES. 

58 kilom. and 13 Belg. posts = 83 
Eng. m. Road good, but paved. 

There is no direct Rly. to Dunkirk, 
but the traveller may go round by 
Hazebrouck thither. The post-road 
runs through 

24 Gravelines, a fortress and deso¬ 
late-looking small town, with grass 
growing in its streets : it has 3000 Inhab. 
“ It is,” to use the words of an old 
writer, “ very strong, by reason that 
they can drown it round in 4 hours, so 
as no land shall be within a mile of it.” 
It is surrounded by a plain, once a vast 
marsh, below the level of the sea, nearly 
20 m. long by 12 broad: almost all 
this can be laid under water in case of 
need, to ward off a hostile invasion on 
this side of France. It is a very un¬ 
healthy place at times, owing to the 
quantity of stagnant water around it. 
At present this district supports a popu¬ 
lation of 60,000. It is protected from 
the sea by the dunes or sand-hills, and 


is gradually being drained by its inha¬ 
bitants. It would cost the arrondisse- 
ment 10 millions of francs to repair the 
damage caused by admitting the waters 
upon the land. 

The Empr. Charles V. here paid a 
visit to Henry VIII. on his return from 
his interview with Francis I. at the 
Field of the Cloth of Gold, 1520. 

20 Dunkirk ; Fr. Dunkerque ( Inns : 
Chapeau Rouge, H. de Flandre, none 
good); a considerable fortified town and 
seaport, with 30,000 Inhab. Large sums 
have been expended in endeavouring to 
clear the mouth of the harbour from the 
bar of sand which obstructs it, by means 
of basins and sluices, which are filled 
by the flowing of the tide and dis¬ 
charged at low water, so as to scour a 
channel through the mud. They are said 
to have failed in producing the results 
anticipated. Dunkirk, nevertheless, is 
the best harbour which France possesses 
in the N. Sea, and ranks fourth in the 
value of its exports and imports of all 
the seaports in the kingdom. It serves 
as the outlet for the manufacturing dis¬ 
trict of the Dept, du Nord. “ It is one 
of the cleanest towns in France, with 
wide streets, well paved—living cheap 
—baths very good.”— D. C. 

The Quai , usually crowded with ves¬ 
sels, and Pier extending far into the sea, 
are •worth seeing; so is the Corinthian 
portico of the church of St. Eloi, a 
handsome but most incongruous frontis¬ 
piece to a Gothic building: in front of 
it is a fine detached Gothic belfry con¬ 
taining the chimes. The interior of 
the church is fine : it has a double side 
aisle. 

There is an English Protestant church, 
Rue des Soeurs Blanches—proof of a 
number of British residents—and a Bri¬ 
tish Consul. 

A statue (by David d’Angers) of 
Jean Bart, a famous sea-captain, born 
here (temp. Louis XIV.), stands in the 
great market-place. 

Dunkirk owes its origin to a chapel 
built by St. Eloi in the 7th cent, 
among the dunes or sand-hills, and 
thence comes its name—“ Church of the 
Dunes.” Here was equipped the Flemish 
division of the Spanish armada, designed 



ROUTE 16. —DUNKIRK. CASSEL. 


115 


Belgium . 

to combine in the invasion of England 
under the command of the Prince of 
Parma; but that skilful general, per¬ 
haps foreseeing the result, refrained from 
putting out to sea. Dunkirk, after hav¬ 
ing been hardly won by the English, 
under Oliver Cromwell, from the Spa¬ 
niards, 1658, was basely sold by Charles 
II. to Louis XIY. for 6 millions of 
livres, in 1662. 

By the Treaty of Utrecht (1715) the 
French were compelled to demolish the 
town and fortifications ; and an English 
commissioner was actually sent hither 
to ascertain that the stipulations of the 
treaty were complied with to the letter 
—a source of deep humiliation to French 
pride, but of more immediate misery to 
the poor inhabitants. The port and 
fortifications were not restored until 
1740. 

The country around is little better 
than a dreary waste of sand-hills thrown 
up by the wind. It was in the neigh¬ 
bourhood of them that Turenne defeated, 
in 1658, the Spanish army under Don 
Juan of Austria and the great Conde, 
who had sided at that time with the 
enemies of France, in the battle of the 
Dimes. The siege of the town had been 
commenced by Mazarin, at the dictation 
of Cromwell, whose fleet blockaded it by 
sea. The Spaniards, unprovided with ar¬ 
tillery, advanced to meet the French, 
by marching close to the sea. Conde 
remonstrated in vain with Don Juan 
against a measure so perilous: “ Yous 
ne connaissez pas M. de Turenne,” said 
he; “on ne fait pas impunement des 
fautes devant un si grand hommeand 
just as the action began he turned to 
the young Duke of Gloucester and asked 
if he had ever been in a battle be¬ 
fore. “ No,” answered the Duke. “ Then 
you will see one lost in half an hour.” 
The action was commenced by 6000 
English soldiers of Cromwell, command¬ 
ed by Lockhart, his ambassador, who 
formed the left wing of the French army, 
and distinguished themselves eminently; 
their charge carried everything before 
it, and contributed not a little^ to the 
result. The Duke of York (afterwards 
James II.) fought in the opposite ranks, 
at the head of a regiment of cavaliers; 
and it was from them that their fellow- 


countrymen suffered most. The Spani¬ 
ards lost 4000 men, and Dunkirk surren¬ 
dered 10 days after in consequence of 
I this defeat. 

There is a canal from Dunkirk to 
Furnes, Ostend, and Bruges, traversed 
daily by a barge. 

Diligences daily to Ostend in hrs. 
and to Furnes in 2| hrs. Steamers to 
London; to St. Petersburg and Ham¬ 
burg. 


[A Railway connects Dunkirk with 
Lille and Paris, passing by Bergues, 
Cassel, and Hazebrouck. 

8 Bergues Stat. (see below). 

9 Esquelbecq Stat. 

7 Arneeke Stat. 

7 Cassel Stat. — [Inns: H. duSauvage; 
H. du Lion Blanc). Cassel is an an¬ 
cient town of 4234 Inhab. on a hill 
500 ft. high. It is worth while, in fine 
weather, to stop here for a short time 
to enjoy the view, one of the most 
extensive in Europe. Although it has 
no striking features, it cannot be con¬ 
templated without deep interest, as 
exhibiting on a clear day an unusually 
extensive tract of highly cultivated and 
productive country. Its most remark¬ 
able feature is that the horizon is 
almost equally distant in every direc¬ 
tion, as no rising ground interrupts the 
sight. It extends over the flat and fer¬ 
tile plains of Flanders and as far as the 
white cliffs of England, into 3 different 
kingdoms; includes 32 towns and 100 
villages. St. Omer, Dunkirk, Ypres, 
Ostend, and the beautiful steeple of 
Hazebrouck are the most prominent ob¬ 
jects : no fresh water is visible in this 
vast expanse. Mount Cassel was one of 
the principal signal stations of the great 
trigonometrical survey carried on during 
the reign of Napoleon. A small map of 
the country visible may be piuchased 
on the spot for 20 sous. 

The gardens and grounds of the late 
General Vandamme, who was born 
here, are no longer kept up. 

“ Flemish is the general language of 
the entire population in the N. parts 
of the Dept, du Nord. It is spoken 
at Cassel, and as far as AYatten.” 





1H) 


ROUTE 16* —YPRES. MENIN. 


Sect. IT. 


10 Hazebrouck Junct. Stat. Here 
the lines to Paris and Lille diverge.] 

Dunkirk by Ypres to Courtrai, either 
by rail or post road as far as 

Bergues Stat. {Inn : Poste; small but 
cheap), a small and poor fortified town 
of 6000 Inhab., situated on an elevation 
surrounded by marshes and salt lakes, 
called Moeren, formerly waste and insa¬ 
lubrious ; but having been drained with¬ 
in a few years, by the construction of 
hydraulic works, they are now becom¬ 
ing more productive and less unwhole¬ 
some. Though only a fortress of the 
third class, the possession of Bergues 
has been deemed of such consequence in 
every war that it has been 8 times taken 
and retaken and 9 times pillaged in the 
course of 8 centuries. It has a pictur¬ 
esque beflroi 150 ft. high. A very im¬ 
portant corn-market is held here every 
Monday. The gates are closed at 10, 
after which neither ingress nor egress is 
allowed. 

The French frontier and custom-house 
is reached at Oest Cappel. 

The country through which the road 
passes is most fertile, enclosed with 
hedges and abounding in wood, which 
gives it, though flat, a pleasing English 
character. Large quantities of hops are 
cultivated in this district. 

If Rousbrugge, a Belgian village. 

Poperinghe , a decayed town of 11,000 
Inhab. Trades in Hemp. From this 
a railroad is open to 

11 k. Ypres Stat. (Flem. Ijpres) 
{Inns: Tete d’Or; La Chatelainie, in 
the Grande Place), an old town of 
17,600 Inhab., no longer fortified, in a 
fertile plain on the Yperle. The 
marshes around it have been drained, 
and it is consequently less unhealthy 
than formerly. The kind of linen called 
diaper , that is, d' Ypres , was made here. 
Thread and thread-lace are the principal 
articles made here at present. 

The extent and prosperity of its manu¬ 
factures had raised the number of its 
Inhab. to 200,000 souls in the 14th cent., 
at which period 4000 looms were con¬ 
stantly at work. 

Its importance has long since de¬ 
parted, but it has some fine old houses, 


and at least one re lie to prove its former 
greatness is the Town House , called 
*Les Halles (1230, 1342), in the great 
market-place, a long low building of 
brick, 436 ft. long, and in a rich style 
of Gothic architecture, surmounted by 
a stately belfry tower in the centre, re¬ 
minding one of the Victoria Tower, 
Westminster. The great hall, 145 yds. 
long, has modern frescoes by Sicerts 
and Gruffins. The 44 statues, in 
front, of Counts of Flanders down to 
Charles V., are modern. The E. end, 
supported on pillars, was added in 1730. 
It was, in fact, a cloth hall, devoted to 
the service of the cloth manufacturers 
in olden times. 

Close to it is the Cathedral of St. 
Martin, a fine Gothic edifice of con¬ 
siderable size. Date of choir, 1221; the 
rest more recent. It contains a carved 
pulpit, a font of brass 16th centy., 
and a picture representing, in com¬ 
partments, the story of the Fall of Man, 
attributed to Van Eyck, but bearing 
the date 1525, and probably by Peter 
Porbus. It is well coloured, and a faith¬ 
ful representation of the human form, 
but without grace or beauty. 

A flat stone in the cloister in the 
Convent of Pauvres Clercs marks the 
tomb of Jansen, founder of the Jan- 
senists, so long persecuted by the 
Jesuits. He was Bishop of Ypres, and 
died 1683. Ypres is famous for hops 
and biscuits. The School of Cavalry for 
Belgium is here. 

Railway (West Flanders) from Ypres 
to Bruges by 

11 Comines Stat. (in the ruined Castle 
was born, 1445, Philip de C., author of 
the Memoirs). 

Wervicq Stat. Fine ch. of St. Me - 
dard, 14th cent. 

3 k. Menin Stat. {Inn : Faucon), on 
the Lys. The works of this frontier 
fortress are now demolished. With its 
9640 Inhab., it is very dismal and 
lifeless. The boundary line of France 
actually touches the glacis. 

At Dadizeele , 4 m. from Menin, a ch. 
is being built by E. W. Pugin, archi¬ 
tect, for the miraculous white image of 
our Lady, which is to cost 70,000^. 






Belgium. route 17 . —Calais to Bruges. 


117 


On the way to Courtrai is the village 
of Bisseghem, near which the Duke of 
York was defeated in 1793 by General 
Souham, and lost 65 pieces of cannon. 

8 k. Wevclghem Stat. 

7 k. Courtrai Stat. Rte. 15a. 


ROUTE 17. 


CALAIS TO BRUGES, BY FURNES, D1X- 
MUDE, AND LICHTERVELDE. 

66 kilom. to Fumes; Furnes to 
Bruges, Rail. 

A very uninteresting route: the road 
is improved, hut 2 leagues of sand near 
the frontier, a drive of 2^ hrs,, remain 
unpaved. 

24 Gravelincs. ) 0 -n, 

20 Dunkirk. } See Rte ' 16 - 

A well-appointed omnibus runs daily 
from Dunkirk to Ostend, in direct com¬ 
munication with the railway trains, in 
7 hrs. Avoid the trekschuit from Dun¬ 
kirk to Ostend. 

The nearest way from Dunkirk to 
Furnes, when the state of the tide per¬ 
mits, is across the sands by the sea-side ; 
but they are sometimes quick. At the 
extremity of the sands, about 4 m. from 
Furnes, is the boundary of France and 
Belgium, and the station of the custom¬ 
house. At a place still called Bloed- 
Panne , in the midst of sand-hills, was 
fought, 1658, the Battle of the Dunes, 
between the Spaniards under Don 
Juan of Austria, with whom was Conde, 
and Marshal Turenne (see Dunkirk). 

22 Furnes Stat. (Flemish, Yeuren). 
Inn: La Noble Rose. A sickly town, 
owing to the malaria from the sur¬ 
rounding marshes—4600 Inhab. A 
great part of the linen manufactured 


in Belgium is sold here, at large fairs 
held three times a year. 

The Hotel de Ville is in the Renais¬ 
sance style, 1596-1612. It has 2 rooms 
hung with Spanish leather. Adjoining 
are the Palais de Justice, and the Beffroi , 
a tower of brick, completed 1629. 

The Ch. of St. Walburge is the choir 
ot a stately Gothic structure, begun early 
in the 14th centy., and left unfinished. 
The oaken pulpit, carved with St. 
John in Patinos, and the choir stalls 
are of 17th centy. work. In the 
sacristy is a fragment of the true Cross 
brought by Count Robert of Flanders 
from Jerusalem 1099. 

Between Furnes and the sea stood 
the famous Cistercian Abbey of the 
Dunes, founded 1107-1237 : remains of 
it may be seen on the farm called Ten 
Bogaerde. It was destroyed by the 
Gueux 1560. 

15 k. Dixmude Stat. (Inn: la Porte 
d’Or.) 4100 Inhab. Here is a fine and 
large Gothic church , containing a stone 
Rood-screen of elaborate and beautiful 
workmanship, in an excessively florid 
(flamboyant) style. Over the high altar 
hangs a chef-d’oeuvre of lordaens , the 
Adoration of the Magi. 

Rail to Nieuport. 

[Between Fumes and Ostend is 
Nieuport, a desolate town, and port 
nearly sanded up, now being converted 
into a watering-place with 4 hotels (du 
Bains, best; Redoute, Club, &c.) The 
detached tower, between it and the sea, 
was a lighthouse, built 1284 by Count 
Guy Dampierre. In the Grande Place 
are the Halles with a beffroi. This 
strong fortress is memorable for the 
victory gained on the sand-hills out¬ 
side its walls at Westende, by Prince 
Mamrice of Nassau, in 1600, over the 
Spaniards. His brother, Prince Fre¬ 
deric Ilcnry, then only 15, and several 
yoimg English noblemen, led on by Sir 
Francis and Horace Vere, served under 
him. When the action was about to 
commence, Maurice, who foresaw that 
it would be a bloody engagement, and 
had made up his mind to conquer or 
perish, recommended the youthful band 






] 18 ROUTE 18. —LONDON TO ANTWERP. THE SCHELDE. Sect. II. 


to return to Ostend and reserve them¬ 
selves for some other occasion. They 
scorned to accept the suggestion, and 
determined to share all the perils of the 
contest. In the first onset Sir Francis 
Yere was desperately wounded, and the 
English volunteers suffered severely, 
but they gave an eminent example 
of courage. The good generalship of 
Prince Maurice was never more con¬ 
spicuous than on that day, and the 
arms of the patriots were eventually 
triumphant.] 

10 k. Handzaeme Stat. 

9 k. Lichtervelde June. Stat. (Etc. 
21a). 

[Ghistelles is a pretty village, named 
from the stable or stud of the Counts 
of Flanders, which was situated here, 
attached to the old Castle , now re¬ 
moved. In the modern Church is the 
monument of St. Godalieve , wife of 
Bertulf Lord of Ghistelles, in the 11th 
cent., who was strangled by her hus¬ 
band through jealousy, and is now 
worshipped as a saint. Her skull lies 
in a shrine of silver, before which a 
lamp burns night and day. Above her 
altar is a pair of angels, as large as life, 
bearing palms and a crown, typical of 
martyrdom.] 

2^ Bruges Stat. See Rte. 21. 


ROUTE 18. 

LONDON TO ANTWERP, BY THE SCHELDE. 

About 210 m. A Belgian and 2 Eng¬ 
lish steamers go from London every 
Sun., Tues., and Thins.; from Antwerp 
every Sun., Wed., and Fri. Fares: 
chief cabin, 1/.; second cabin, 15s.; a 
carriage, 4/. The voyage occupies from 
20 to 24 hrs., 7 of which are taken up 
in descending the Thames and 6 in 
ascending the Schelde (French l’Es- 
caut). 

Steamer from Harwich to Antwerp. 

The course from the Thames to the 


Schelde is almost a straight line. It was 
the situation of the Schelde, immediately 
opposite the mouth of the English river 
and the port of London, that caught the 
attention of Napoleon, who saw what 
advantageous use might be made of such 
a harbour to annoy the English in war 
or rival them in commerce. The Schelde 
dues were abolished by treaty between 
Holland and Belgium in 1863. 

On entering the mouth of the river 
called the Hond, or West Schelde, the 
land on the 1. hand is Walcheren, the 
largest of the 9 islands which form the 
province of Zealand, or Zeeland (Sea 
land). The district is most appropriately 
named, since the greater part of it lies 
many feet below the level of the sea ; it 
may, therefore, truly be said to appertain 
naturally to that element. The isles of 
Zealand, separated from one another by 
the different branches of the Schelde, 
are protected from the inroads of the 
ocean, partly by natural sand-banks or 
dunes (§ 12), partly by enormous dykes 
or sea-walls (§ 9), which measure more 
than 300 m. in extent, and cost annu¬ 
ally more than 2 millions of florins to 
keep them in repair. Of the great dyke 
at West Kappel, in the island of Wal¬ 
cheren, it is said, that, had it been ori¬ 
ginally made of solid copper, the first 
cost would have been less than the sums 
already expended in building and re¬ 
pairing it. The polders, or drained and 
dyked meadows, are divided by the 
water engineers into two classes—those 
nearest the sea or river, which are of 
course most exposed to inundation, are 
called polders calamiteux; the more dis¬ 
tant are distinguished as non calamiteux. 
The first class requires stronger dykes, 
the. maintenance of which is considered 
so important that they are kept up partly 
at the expense of government; those 
further inland, not being equally ex¬ 
posed to danger, are maintained by the 
province or by private individuals. 

A large portion of the country being 
thus partitioned out, as it were, by 
dykes, even should the outer or sea- 
dyke break, the extent of the disaster 
is limited by these inner defences, and 
the further ravages of the flood are pre¬ 
vented. Notwithstanding the care with 
which they are continually watched, a 








119 


Belgium . route 18 . —walcheren. flushing. 


rupture took place, in 1808, in the great 
dyke of West Kappel, by which a great 
part of the island of Walcheren was in¬ 
undated; the sea stood as high as the 
roofs of the houses in the streets of 
Middelburg, and the destruction of that 
town was prevented solely by the strength 
of its walls. 

The whole province is most fertile 
and productive, especially in corn and 
madder, which may he considered the 
, staple. Its meadows, manured with 
wood ashes, hear excellent grass. It is 
also exceedingly populous, abounding 
in towns and villages; but, owing to 
the embankments which enclose them, 
the only indications of their existence 
are the summits of spires, roofs, and tall 
chimneys, seen at intervals over these 
artificial mounds by those who ascend 
the Schelde. The industry of the Zea¬ 
land peasant, and the economy with 
which ho husbands his resources, are 
very remarkable, and might furnish a 
good example to the same class in our 
own country. As an instance of the 
mode in which he makes a little go a 
great way, it may be mentioned, that 
even from the rushes and reeds on the 
river banks he gains a meal for his 
cattle. When boiled, mixed with a 
little hay, and sprinkled with a little 
salt, they are much relished by the 
cows, who thrive upon them and yield 
abundance of milk. 

The island (rt.) opposite to Wal¬ 
cheren is Cadsand, memorable in the 
English expedition of 1809. Cadsand 
had been, at an earlier period, the scene 
of a glorious victory gained by the 
valiant Sir Walter Manny and Henry 
Plantagenet Earl of Derby, at the 
head of the chivalry of England, over a 
large body of Flemings, in the pay of 
Philip de Valois, King of France, in 
1337. The English, effecting a land¬ 
ing in the face of the enemy, drove 
them from the sand-hills on which they 
were posted, and took, burned, and 
razed the town. The cloth-yard shafts 
of the English archers did great exe¬ 
cution, and the personal prowess of the 
two leaders contributed not a little to 
the issue of the day. The first town 
which is perceived on the 1. of the 
spectator, and rt. bank of the river, is 


(rt.) Flushing (Dutch, Vlissingen, 
Fr. Flessingue). Inns : Due de Well¬ 
ington; II. de Commerce. 

A fortified town of 11,000 Inhab., with 
Dockyard and Naval Arsenal: 2 large 
and deep canals, communicating with the 
sea, enable the largest merchant vessels 
to penetrate into the tow, and unload 
their cargoes on the quays, close to the 
warehouses. 

Along with Brill, it was handed over 
to Queen Elizabeth, as security for the 
subsidy and armed force sent over by 
her to assist the Dutch under Sir Philip 
Sidney. They were ealled “ cautionary 
tows.” After the capture of Antwerp 
by Parma, the English garrison and 
Dutch vessels of war effectually shut up 
the Schelde, and Antwerp for a time 
ceased to be a port. 

It was bombarded and taken by the 
English, under Lord Chatham in 1809. 
This unprofitable and cruel exploit 
was the sole result of the Walcheren 
expedition, the largest and best- 
equipped armament which ever left 
the shores of Britain, consisting of 
37 ships of the line, 23 frigates, and 
82 gun-boats, containing a force of 
100,000 men, who might have carried 
Antwerp by a coup-de-main. Since 
then the works of Flushing have been 
greatly strengthened, and in com¬ 
bination with the Fort of Ramme- 
kens, lying to the E., and those of 
Breskens, on the opposite side of the 
Schelde (here from 21 to 3 m. broad), 
completely command the entrance of 
the river. 

Admiral de Paiiter was born here, 
the son of a rope-maker; a statue has 
been erected to him by his townsfolk. 
The fine Stadhuis (Town Hall), 2 
churches, and more than 100 houses, 
were destroyed by the bombs and Con¬ 
greve rockets of the English. Within 
the walls there is nothing but the usual 
singularities of a Dutch town (§ 10) 
to excite the attention of a stranger, but 
at West Kappel the construction of the 
dykes is seen in the greatest perfection. 
At this point there is a gap in the Dunes, 
and the country behind would be at 
the mercy of the sea, were it not 
defended by a dyke * 4700 yds. long 










120 


ROUTE 18. —LONDON TO ANTWERP. BIERVLIET. Sect. II. 


and 30 ft. high, upon the stability of 
which the safety of the whole island 
depends. 

Ely. projected to Middelburg, to join 
that to Bergen-op-Zoom and Rotterdam. 

[5 m. inland from Flushing (diligence 
every hour) is Middelburg , capital of 
Zealand. (/nra, Heerenlogement, not 
bad.) 16,000 Inhab. A remarkably 
clean town, with a splendid Town 
Hall , built, 1468, by Charles the Bold, 
ornamented with 25 colossal statues of 
Counts and Countesses of Flanders. 
In the New Church is the monument of 
John and Cornelius Evert sen, admirals 
slain fighting against the English, 1666. 

The telescope was invented at Mid¬ 
delburg, in 1601, by one Hans Lipper- 
shey, a spectacle-maker.] 

The climate of Walcheren is most un¬ 
healthy in spring and autumn, when 
even the natives are liable to ague, or a 
species of marsh fever called the koorts. 
This disease is far more fatal to stran¬ 
gers, as was proved by the deaths of 
7000 English soldiers, who perished 
here during the disastrous and ill-con¬ 
trived expedition of 1809. The fever, 
however, is not contagious, and may he 
avoided by protecting the person with 
warm clothes against the sudden transi¬ 
tions of temperature, and by careful 
diet. Many of the inhabitants are very 
long-lived ; and the mortality among 
the English became so great from the 
circumstance of their arriving during 
the most unhealthy season, from their 
being exposed in tents to the night-air, 
and from their incautious consumption 
of green fruit. 

The distance from Flushing to Ant¬ 
werp up the river is reckoned to be 
about 62 m. The island next to "VVal- 
cheren, forming the rt. bank of the 
river, is Zuid Beveland. 

On the 1. bank, but at some dis¬ 
tance off, is Biervliet, a small town, 
only deserving of mention because a 
native of this place, named William 
Benkels, invented in 1386 the art of 
curing herrings. A monument was 
erected in the church to him as a bene¬ 
factor to his country ; and it is related 
that Charles Y., and his sister the 
Queen of Hungary, visited his tomb, 
out of respect to the memory of the 


fisherman to whom Holland owes a 
large part of her wealth. 

Biervliet was detached from the con¬ 
tinent by an inundation in 1377, which 
submerged 19 villages and nearly all 
their inhab. Dutch industry and per¬ 
severance have long since recovered 
every acre. 

(/.) Terneuzen.—Near this are the 
sluice-gates which close the entrance 
of the Canal extending to Ghent, 
which gives that city all the advantages 
of a seaport, as it is 16 ft. deep, and 
wide enough to admit vessels of very 
large burthen. It serves also as a 
drain to carry off the water from the 
district through which it passes. At 
Sas van Gent are sluices, by means of 
which the whole country can be laid 
under water. 

Ely. from Terneuzen to Zclzaete. 

The artificial embankments on each 
side of the Schelde are protected against 
the current, and masses of floating ice 
brought down in winter, by piers and 
breakwaters of piles driven into the 
river bed, or by masonry brought from 
a considerable distance in the interior, 
principally from Namur. 

Below this both banks of the Schelde 
belong to Holland; but, after passing 
the termination of the island of Zuid 
Beveland, the river flows through Bel¬ 
gian territory. 

The strait or passage called Kreek 
Bak, which separates Zuid Beveland 
from the main land, is commanded by the 
very strong Fort Bath, which lies on the 
limits of the Dutch territory. Rte. 13. 

On approaching Forts Lillo (rt.) and 
Liefkenshock (/.), the city of Antwerp 
with its tall spire appears in sight. 
These two strong works remained after 
the Belgic revolution in the hands of 
the Dutch down to 1839, when they 
were dismantled and given up to the 
Belgians in exchange for Yenloo in 
Limburg, and abandoned in conformity 
with the Treaty of the Quadruple Al¬ 
liance. They completely commanded 
the passage up and down the Schelde, 
which here puts on the appearance of 
a river; lower down it is more an arm 
of the sea, flowing between the islands 
of Zealand. 

The polders (§11) above Fort Lief- 



121 


ROUTE 18. —LONDON TO ANTWERP. THE SCHELDE. 


Belgium. 

kenshoek, on the 1. bank, were laid 
under water during the contest with 
the Dutch, by cutting the dykes, and 
down to 1838 an extensive tract of 
country remained in consequence de¬ 
solate and useless. 5 or 6 other forts 
are passed on either side of the river 
previous to arriving at Antwerp. Be¬ 
tween (7.) Calloo and ( rt .) Oordam, in 
1585, the Duke of Parma threw across 
the Schelde his celebrated bridge* 2400 
ft. long, which, by closing the naviga¬ 
tion of the river, and preventing the 
arrival of supplies of provisions to the 
besieged city of Antwerp, mainly con¬ 
tributed to its surrender. The bridge 
was so strongly built that it resisted 
the floods and ice of winter; 97 pieces 
of cannon were mounted on it, 2 forts 
guarded its extremities, and a protect¬ 
ing fleet was stationed beside it to 
assist in repelling any attack. The 
besieged, who, at first, laughed to scorn 
the notion of rendering such a structure 
permanent, when they found that all 
communication with their friends was 
cut off by it, began to tremble for the 
result, and every effort was made by 
them to effect its destruction. One 
night, the Spaniards were surprised by 
the appearance of 3 blazing fires float¬ 
ing down the stream, and bearing 
directly towards the bridge. These 
were tire-ships invented by a Mantuan 
engineer (Gianibelli) then within the 
walls of Antwerp. The Prince of 
Parma rushed to the bridge to avert 
the threatening danger, and nearly 
lost his life; for one of the vessels, 
reaching its destination with great pre¬ 
cision, blew up with such tremendous 
force as to burst through the bridge in 
spite of its chains and cables, and de¬ 
molished one of the stockades which 
connected it with the shore. 800 
Spanish soldiers were destroyed by the 
explosion, and Parma himself was 
struck down senseless by a beam. Had 
the Zealand fleet been at hand, as pro¬ 
posed, the city might have been re¬ 
lieved. Some untoward mistake pre¬ 
vented its co-operation at the right 
moment, and allowed the Spanish 

* See Motley’s inimitable description of the 
sieges in his ‘History of the United Nether¬ 
lands.’ 

[n. G. 


general time to repair the damages, 
which, with his usual activity, he 
effected with incredible celerity. An¬ 
other attempt to destroy the bridge, 
by means of an enormous floating ma¬ 
chine called the “End of the War,” 
an unprophetic name, was entirely frus¬ 
trated by the vessel running aground ; 
and Antwerp, reduced by famine, was 
compelled to surrender. 

In February, 1831, while hostilities 
were in progress between Holland and 
Belgium, one of the Dutch gunboats, in 
sailing up the Schelde during a heavy 
gale, twice missed stays. In spite of 
all the exertions of the crew, the vessel 
took the ground close under the guns 
of fort St. Lament, below the town, 
and within a few yards of the docks. 
The helpless situation of the gunboat 
had been marked by crowds of Belgians 
from the shore ; and the moment she was 
fast, a body of volunteers leaped on board, 
in haste to make a prize of the stranded 
vessel. The commander, a young 
officer named Van Speyk, was called on, 
in a triumphant tone, to haul down his 
colours and surrender. He saw that 
all chance of rescue, and of successful 
resistance against unequal numbers, 
were alike vain ; but he had repeatedly 
before expressed his determination never 
to yield up his vessel, and he proved as 
good as his word. He rushed down to 
the powder magazine, and, falling on 
his knees to implore forgiveness of the 
Almighty for the crime of self-destruc¬ 
tion, he calmly laid a lighted cigar upon 
an open barrel of gunpowder. In a 
few moments the explosion took place ; 
and, while the vibration shook the 
whole city, the dauntless Van Speyk, 
and all but 3 out of his crew of 31 
men, were blown into the air. Van 
Speyk was an orphan; he had been edu¬ 
cated at the public expense in an orphan 
house at Amsterdam: thus nobly did 
he repay his debt, and his country 
and king were not unmindful of him. 
A monument was set up to his memory 
by the side of that of De Buiter, and 
it was decreed that henceforth a vessel 
in the Dutch navy should always bear 
the name of Van Speyk. 

Antwerp. See Bte. 22. 


Ct 






122 


♦ 


ROUTE 19. —GHENT TO BRUSSELS. [Sect. II. 


ROUTE 19. 

this piece the grey is rathe r too predo¬ 
minant, and the figures have not that 
union with their ground which is ge¬ 
nerally so admirable in the works of 
Rubens. I suspect it has been in some 
picture-cleaner’s hands, whom I have 
often known to darken every part of the 
ground about the figure, in order to 
make the flesh look brighter and clearer, 
by which the general effect is de¬ 
stroyed.” — Sir J. R. 

Near the H. de Ville, rebuilt by Roe- 
landt, is the ancient Maison de Commune , 
a fine Gothic edifice, founded in 1210; 
its tower and balcony in front date from 
1487. 

Alost is a great hop-market, and has 
considerable cloth manufactures. 

Rail to Termonde and to Ath. 

[About 7 m. from Alost is Assche, 
a small town of 4000 Inhab., trading 

GHENT TO BRUSSELS, BY ALOST.—RAIL. 

m flax and hops. A particular sort 

of cake is made here: the Flemish 

14 trains daily, in 1 hr. to 1 hr. 50 
min. 

The Ghent-Mechlin Ely. (Rte. 21) is 
followed to 

13 k. Wetteren Junct. Stat., where the 
line to Termonde branches 1. 

9 Lede Stat. 

5 k. Alost Junct. Stat. (or Aalst). — Inns: 
H. Pays-Bas; Trois Rois. A town of 
19,000 Inhab., on the Dender. The 
name signifies “to the east,” i. e. of the 
Imperial province of Flanders, of which 
it was the frontier town in that direction. 

The Ch. of St. Martin is unfinished, 
and limited to choir, transept, and 3 
bays of a nave erected 1498 after a fire ; 
it is very beautiful. The choir-stalls 
are by Geerts, of Louvain. In the 
chapel of St. Sebastian is the grave of 
Thierry Martins, a learned printer of 
Alost, d. 1534: his epitaph is by Eras¬ 
mus. Here is a celebrated ^picture, St. 
Roch interceding with our Saviour to ap¬ 
pease the plague at Alost, by Rubens. It 
is one of his most sublime works, and was 
carried to Paris by the French. “ The 
composition is upon the same plan as 
that of St. Bavon at Ghent. The pic¬ 
ture is divided into two parts. The 
Saint and Christ are represented in the 
upper part, and the effects of the plague 
in the lower part of the picture. In 

name of it has a marvellously uncouth 
appearance; it is suiherkoekjes; never¬ 
theless they are good cakes, and sold by 
Jodocus de Bischop, next door to the 
auberge La Tete de Boeuf.” — Southey .] 

6 k. Denderleeuw Junct. Stat. The 
lines from Ghent and Courtrai to Brus¬ 
sels proceed by 

7 Ternath Stat. 

14 Laeken Stat. 

Brussels Stat. du Nord, near the 
Botanic Garden. (See Rte. 23.) 

The line to Ath continues from Den¬ 
derleeuw Stat. along the vale of the 
Dender by 

7 k. Ninove Stat. — Inn: H. de l’Etoile. 

G Santbergen Stat. 

8 Grammont Stat. (Flem. Geraards- 
bergen), on the Dender ; 9000 Inhab. 

No good Inn. 

7 Lessines Stat. — Inn : Paon d’Or. 

7 Rebaix Stat. 

4 Ath Stat., in Rte. 15. 

4 



Belgium . 


ROUTE 20. —LONDON OR DOVER TO OSTEND. 


123 


ROUTE 20. 

LONDON OR DOVER TO OSTEND. 

Steamers from London (136 m.) in 
summer twice a-week. The average 
passage is 10 to 11 hrs., 5 of which are 
occupied in descending the Thames. 
Fares: chief cabin, 18s.; fore cabin, 

14s. 

Between Dover and Ostend there are 
first-rate iron mail steamers, corre¬ 
sponding with trains from London 
Bridge and Victoria, morning and even¬ 
ing. They perform the voyage in 5 
hrs. The distance is 63 m. Fares: 
chief cabin, 15s.; fore cabin, 10s.; 
children half-price. Carriages, 2 wheels, 
11. 11 s. 6c?.; 4 wheels, 3/. 3s. The 
journey from London to Brussels occu¬ 
pies about 12 hrs. 

The light of Dunkirk, about 15 m. S., 
is seen before the Ostend light. The 
harbour of Ostend, which is dry at low 
water, is distinguished by a lighthouse 
105 ft. high, and is flanked by 2 jetties, 
furnishing agreeable walks; at the en¬ 
trance is a bar of sand, which is kept 
down by the discharge of basins filled by 
the tide through sluices opened at low 
water. 

Ostend.— Inns: II. de 1’ Ocean; — 
II. de Plage, both on the shore;— 
Hotel de France, excellent; table- 
d’hote at 2 and 5;—II. de Prusse, on 
the shore, in view of the sea; very 
dear, but good;—H. d’Allemagne, close 
to Railroad stat.;—H. Fontaine, French 
house, Rue Longue;—H. des Bains ;— 
H. Marion. 2nd Class ; Lion d’Or, quiet. 
The hotels here are better than at 
Bruges. The drinking water is filtered 
rain-water. Seltzer water is preferable. 
(§ 6 .) 

The Custom-house , near the harbour, 
open at 5 a.m. in summer. A commis¬ 
sionaire will attend to the baggage at 
the Custom-house and secure places, 
and consider himself well paid by 2 fr. 


N.B. Passengers going direct to 
Cologne need not have .their baggage 
searched at Ostend. They may place it 
under the charge of an officer of the rail¬ 
road, who is to be found at the Custom¬ 
house, and it will be delivered again on 
the production of the ticket at Cologne, 
where it is examined. Such luggage is 
marked “ in transit.” Vigilantes, § 22. 

English is much spoken, and there 
is an English Chapel , Rue Longue. 
Service twice on Sunday. 

Ostend, a seaport town, once a strong 
fortress, and now a cheerful and very 
fashionable and much frequented water¬ 
ing-place, contains 17,150 Inhab.; it. 
stands in an angle between the sea and 
the harbour, and even on the land-side 
is nearly surrounded by water. The 
land lies very low all round, and the 
waters arc controlled by means of 
sluices. 

Ostend endured one of the most 
famous sieges recorded in history, 
from the Spaniards; it lasted 3j years, 
from 1601 to 1604. The town yielded 
to the Spanish general Spinola at 
last, only by command of the States- 
General, who had gained their point 
by its obstinate resistance. 50,000 
men of the besieged, and 80,000 Spa¬ 
niards, are said to have fallen during 
the siege. The victors paid dearly for 
their conquest; all that they gained 
was a plot of ground covered with a 
heap of ruins; for their cannon had 
levelled every house with the earth; 
and they lost 4 other towns, which 
were wrested from them by the Dutch 
while their armies were engaged in this 
unprofitable enterprise. The noise of 
the bombardment was, it is said, heard 
in London. At Ostend, Arthur Wel¬ 
lesley first set foot on the Continent, 
1794, in command of the 33rd Regt., 
forming part of the army of the Duke of 
York. For Sir Eyre Coote’s failure 
here, see Rte. 21. 

Neither the public buildings here, nor 
the churches, are remarkable, except to 
those who have never before seen the 
paraphernalia of the Roman Catholic 
religion. In the new Ch. is a monu¬ 
ment to Queen Louise, first wife of 
King Leopold, daughter of Louis 
Philippe, who died here 1850. 

G 2 







124 


ROUTE 21. —OSTEND TO MECHLIN. 


The most agreeable spot in Ostencl 
is the Digue , a sea-wall 40 ft. high 
and 1| m, long, extending between 
the sea and the broad ditches faced 
with stone and paved with bricks, 
approached from the town by a bridge 
over the Fosse. It forms a charming 
and lively public promenade, and com¬ 
mands a wide extent of dunes and flat 
sands bordering the sea, not a tree being 
visible. This and the wooden Piers 
(estacades ), stretching on both sides of 
the harbour’s mouth, are much re¬ 
sorted to at all hours, especially in the 
evening. 

On the Digue is the Assembly Room , 
(Kur Saal) open to subscribers, with 
music and dancing, every evening from 
July to September, a Restaurant and 
Reading-room, with newspapers. Sub¬ 
scriptions 21 frs. a day; 13 frs. a week; 
35 frs. a month. 

Ostend is resorted to in summer by 
16,000 visitors—many Germans; the 
King of the Belgians and Court repair 
hither, and a Royal Palace has been 
built for him on the sea, near the 
Digue. 

There are 600 Bathing Machines on 
the beach, and the sands, divided 
into safe little bays by groins carried out 
from the Digue, are very extensive and 
smooth, and are crowded with bathers of 
both sexes, decorously clad in bath 
dresses ( Toilette de Bain ), by order of 
the police. A bathing-house, Pavilion 
des Bains , has been established close to 
the sea, at the S.E. end of the Digue. 
Bath tickets for a machine, une voiture 
a une personne, 75 c. 

In the Town-hall, on the Place 
d’Aimes, is the Casino , a sort of assem¬ 
bly-room or club. Beneath it are read¬ 
ing-rooms, provided with newspapers, 
coffee and billiard rooms. 

An English consul resides at Ostend. 

The coleoptera and plants found on 
the sandhills near the town are interest¬ 
ing to the naturalist. 

The Fishmarket is well supplied. 

Outside the Bruges gate are the Oyster 
Parks (Huitrieres ), salt-water reservoirs 
filled with oysters brought from Har¬ 
wich, Colchester, and elsewhere on 
the English coast, and fattened here. 
They are transported hence as far as 


Sect. II. 

Paris, under the name of Huitres 
d’Ostende. 

Outside the Bruges gate is the 
Archery Ground. 

Steamers to London and to Dover. 
Diligence daily to Furnes by Nieuport 
in 2.i- hrs., to Dunkirk in 7 hrs. 

Railroad , see § 22, and Rte. 21, to 
Bruges, Ghent, Mechlin and Brussels. 

Excursions to Bruges, Ghent (Rte. 
21), Blankenbergh, a quiet watering- 
place, reached by rail from Bruges. 


ROUTE 21. 

OSTEND TO BRUGES, GHENT, TERMONDE, 
AND MECHLIN.—RAILROAD. 

123 kilom.=76j Eng. m. 

Trains, 7 daily—in 25 to 35 min. to 
Bruges—thence to Ghent, 55 min. ex¬ 
press, 85 min. slow trains. 

The country is rich in an agricultural 
point of view, but flat, tame, and tire¬ 
some to other eyes than those of a far¬ 
mer. A Canal connects Ostend with 
Bruges, a fine broad sheet of water, 
3 or 4 times wider than the narrow 
strips to which we are accustomed in 
England. In 1798, 1000 British troops, 
under Sir Eyre Coote, landed at the 
mouth of it and destroyed the sluices; 
but the wind shifted before they could 
make good their retreat, and they "were 
taken prisoners by the French. 

7 Plasschendael Stat. The Dunkirk 
canal here joins that from Ostend to 
Bruges. At Oudenburg are kitchen 
gardens which supply Ostend with ve¬ 
getables. 

6 Jabbeke Stat. 

9 Bruges Stat. ^ hr. from Ostend. 

Bruges (Flem. Brugge). — Inns: H. 
de Flandres, in the Rue Noordzand; 
table-d’hdte at 1 and 5 ; fish-dinners on 
Fridays;—H. du Commerce, in the Rue 
St. Jacques, good. 2nd Class: LI. de 
Londres, opposite the station. 

Beware of touting street guides. 

This city, the Liverpool of the middle 
ages, which was rich and powerful 
when Antwerp and Ghent were only in 





ROUTE 21.— BRUGES. CATHEDRAL. 


125 


Belgium. 

their infancy, is now reduced to 51,537 
Inhab., of whom 15,000 are paupers. 
In the 14th cent, the commerce of the 
world may he said to have been con¬ 
centrated in it: Factories, or privileged 
companies of merchants, from 17 king¬ 
doms were settled here as agents20 
foreign ministers had hotels within its 
walls; and natives of many distant 
countries, of which little was then 
known but their names, repaired hither 
annually. Early in the 13th cent. 
Bruges was made the staple place of the 
cities of the Hanseatic League, and of 
the English wool trade, and became the 
centre of resort for the Lombard and 
Venetian traders, who brought hither 
the manufactures of India and the pro¬ 
duce of Italy, to exchange them for the 
merchandise of Germany and the Baltic. 
Bichly laden argosies from Venice, Ge¬ 
noa, and Constantinople, might, at the 
same time, be seen unloading in its 
harbour; and its warehouses groaned 
beneath bales of wool from England, 
linen from Belgium, and silk from 
Persia. It stands on the little river 
Rege, formerly navigable, but now 
almost absorbed by canals. Bruges was 
long the residence of the Counts of 
Flanders; but it reached the height 
of its splendour in the first part of the 
15th cent., when the Dukes of Bur¬ 
gundy fixed their court here. 

At present it wears an air of deso¬ 
lation ; the people in its streets are few, 
and it has lost the indications of com¬ 
mercial activity. Its appearance is the 
more mournful from its great extent, 
and the size and unaltered splendour of 
many of the public buildings and pri¬ 
vate houses,—vestiges of its former 
wealth and prosperity. 

Fair city, worthy of her ancient fame ! 

The season of her splendour is gone by. 

Yet everywhere its monuments remain : 
Temples which rear their stately heads on high, 
Canals that intersect the fertile plain— 

Wide streets and squares, with many a court 
and hall, 

Spacious and undefac’d—but ancient all. 

When I may read of tilts in days of old, 

Of cournays grac’d by chieftains of renown, 

Fair dames, grave citizens, and warriors bold— 
If fancy could portray some stately town, 
Which of such pomp fit theatre may be, 

Fair Bruges! I shall then remember thee. 

Southey. 


It has still many objects of interest) 
which deserve at least a day to be de¬ 
voted to them. They may be conve¬ 
niently visited in the following order:— 
Start from the railroad station, close to 
which is a Capuchin convent, by the 
Hue Zuidzand, which leads to the Ca¬ 
thedral (rt.); thence to Notre Dame , 
which is at a short distance to the S.E. 
—on the W. of this is the Hospital of 
St. Jean; thence, by the Dy ver canal, 
through the fish-market, to the Hotel 
de Ville, Palais de Justice , and Cha- 
pelle du S. Sang; thence by the Rue 
Haute, Pont des Moulins, and Rue 
Molenmaersch, to the Jerusalem Ch., 
beyond which, near the rampart, are 
the garden of St. Sebastian and Con¬ 
vent of English ladies; return by Rue 
and Pont des Carmes to the Academic 
and the Grande Place. 

The * Cathedral (St. Sauveur ), on the 
rt. side of the Staen street, leading from 
the railway into the town, is a Gothic 
building, externally of brick, and ugly; 
but within, the handsomest church in 
Bruges (date, choir and aisles, 1185— 
chapels of E. apse, 1483-1527; nave, 1362. 
Against the wall of the S', aisle hangs a 
small picture with shutters, representing 
the Martyrdom of St. Hippolytus, who 
was torn in pieces by horses, an un¬ 
pleasing and inferior work, attributed 
falsely to Hans Memling. There is a 
good picture of the Last Supper, with 
Abraham and Elijah in the centre and 
at the side, by Peter Porbus. Above 
the choir stalls are the arms of the 
knights of the Golden Fleece, founded 
at Bruges, 1429, by Philippe le Bel, On 
either side of the altar is a fine marble 
tomb. In the Chapclle des Cordonniers, 
in the N. aisle, are 2 monumental 
Brasses built into the wall, interesting 
examples of early Flemish art in the 15th 
and 16th centuries, dated 1423 and 
1515. 

**Notre Dame (Onze Lieve Vrouwe) is 
a church surmounted by a tall brick 
tower, a fine work (1230-97) with mo¬ 
dern spire, 442 ft. high. The nave and 
inner aisles date from 1180; outer aisles, 
1480-1520. But it is less remark¬ 
able for its architecture than for the 
works of art to be found in it. The 
pulpit is one of those specimens of ela- 




126 ROUTE 21. —BRUGES. 

borate carving in wood, so common in 
the churches of the Netherlands. In a 
chapel in the S. side of the Ch. is a 
* statue of the Virgin and Child, said to 
be by Michael Angelo , and believed by 
Sir Joshua Reynolds to have certainly 
the air of his school. There is a grandeur 
about the upper part of the Virgin’s 
figure, and in the features, which re¬ 
semble some of M. Angelo’s works. 
The tradition in Bruges is, that a vessel 
which was conveying it to England was 
lost on the neighbouring coast of Flan¬ 
ders. It was carried to Paris by the 
French. 

Beyond, in a chapel in the aisle 
S. of the choir, are the Tombs of 
Charles the Bold, Duke of Burgundy, 
and his daughter Mary, wife of the 
Empr. Maximilian, the last scions of 
the house of Burgundy, and the last 
native sovereigns of the Netherlands. 
The effigies of both father and daughter, 
crowned, made of copper, richly gilt, 
repose at full length on slabs of black 
marble. The *Monument of Mary of 
Burgundy was erected in 1495, by 
Jean de Beckere of Brussels, and is 
far superior to the other. Beneath and 
round the sides are 36 coats of arms 
richly enamelled, arranged in the fashion 
of a genealogical tree, supported by 
angels. These arms “record the 
string of duchies, counties, and lord- 
ships which this illustrious and amiable 
heiress brought to the house of Au¬ 
stria, and which afterwards swelled 
the empire, on which the sun never 
set, of her grandson Charles V. The 
exquisite richness of the monuments, 
the historical interest attaching both 
to the father and daughter, and the 
affection of the Flemish for the memory 
of this young countess, who died when 
pregnant at the age of 25, by a fall from 
her horse, while hawking with her hus¬ 
band near Bruges, having long con¬ 
cealed, out of affection for him, the 
mortal injury she had received, render 
them objects worthy of considerable 
attention.’’ 

In 1558 Philip II. bespoke another 
tomb exactly like it for his great-great¬ 
grandfather, Charles the Bold, and paid 
one Master Jonghelinck for it 14,000 fl., 
besides 40 fl. to each of the workmen as 


CHURCHES. HOSPITAL. Sect. II. 

compensation for the loss of his teeth in 
the process of enamelling. The Duke is 
decorated with the order of the Golden 
Fleece. During the French Revolution 
these monuments were concealed, to pre¬ 
serve them from rapacity and Vandal¬ 
ism, by the beadle of the church, Pierre 
Dezitter, at the peril of his life, since a 
price of 2000 fr. was put upon his head 
in consequence of this good deed. A 
charge of 50 cents per person is made for 
showing them. A wooden planking 
affixed to the railing of the chapel con¬ 
ceals them from view. A richly carved 
Gothic balcony, of the pew of the 
family of Gruthuyze, on the 1. of the 
high altar, and a painting in the style 
of John Mabuse (? I. Mostart ), represent¬ 
ing a Madonna (Mater Dolorosa) in the 
centre, with 7 scenes from the life of 
Christ round it, deserve to be looked at. 
The Crucifixion and the Last Supper, 
by Peter Porbus , hang in the side aisles, 
and are among the finest works of that 
artist. This ch. is open at 4 p.m. 

In the Ch. of St. Jacques (close to 
the Hotel du Commerce), a handsome 
building, rich in altars and marbles, are 
some interesting monumental brasses of 
a Spanish family: observe one, dated 
1577, to Don Francisco di Lapuebla and 
his lady, in the Chapel of Ste. Croix. 
They are worthy of notice, because few 
are now to be seen in Belgium. 

Close to Notre Dame is the * Hospital 
of St. John , an ancient charitable insti¬ 
tution, where the sick are attended by 
the religious sisters of the house, whose 
duties resemble those of the Soeurs de 
la Charite. Admission 9 to 12 and 1 to 
6, with a small fee. The chapel is open 
daily for service. Portraits of some of the 
directors and superiors of the establish¬ 
ment hang in the Chapter House, which 
also contains the celebrated pictures, 
the pride of the city and admiration of 
travellers, painted by Hans Memling , 
who flourished at Bruges, of which he 
was probably a native, born about 
1425. Researches in the town records 
show that he was a respectable citizen 
and householder. He was dead in 1495. 
The pictures are shown from 9 to 12, and 
from 1 to 6, fee 1 fr.* Obs. 1. The Vir- 

* See Crowe and Cavalcaselle, ‘ Early Flemish 
Painters/ and Mr. Weale’s valuable papers. 





ROUTE 21. —BRUGES. PICTURES. H. DE YILLE. 


127 


Belgium. 

gin and Child, with St. Catherine; and 
in the shutters the Decollation of St. 
John Baptist, and St. John Evangelist 
at Patmos: on the outside several 
figures of saints. The artist never sur¬ 
passed, or even equalled, this great per¬ 
formance. The stiffness of the figures 
is usual in paintings of the period at 
which these were executed; hut the 
careful finish of the heads,—equal to 
that employed in the finest miniatures, 
—the exquisite character which they 
discover, and the beauty and vividness 
of the colouring, are rare and truly ad¬ 
mirable. It was executed in 1479, 
and bears Mending’s name. 2. Another 
small altarpiece, also with wings: the 
principal subject is the Adoration of the 
Magi; at the sides are the Nativity 
and the Purification in the Temple. 
3. Head of the Sybil Zambetha, in 
15th centy. costume. 4. A folding 
picture, The Virgin in a red robe, 
with the Child; and the admirable por¬ 
trait of Martin v. Nieuwenhopen the 
donor. See also a Crucifixion by Franks, 
and a Holy Family said to be by 
Vandyk. 

The most elaborate of the works of 
Memling is the Reliquary or Chasse de 
Ste. Ursule, a wooden coffer for holding 
the arm of the saint, entirely painted by 
him. On each side of the cover are 3 
medallions, the smaller of which con¬ 
tain angels playing instruments, the 
larger a coronation of the Virgin and 
the glorification of St. Ursula. On one 
gable end is the Virgin and Child, on 
the other St. Ursula. On the long 
sides are subjects from the legend of 
St. Ursula and the 11,000 Virgins at. 
Cologne. St. Ursula was the daughter of 
an English king; with a train of 11,000 
virgins, her lover Conan, and an escort 
of knights, she made a pilgrimage to 
Rome. On their return they all suf- | 
fered martyrdom at Cologne. The 
paintings are executed with the most 
delicate finish. 1. In the first, repre¬ 
senting the landing at Cologne, the tra¬ 
veller will recognise the cathedral, 
churches, and other buildings of that 
city, copied with considerable fidelity. 
2. The landing at Basle. 3. The ar¬ 
rival at Rome ; the Pope receives the 
pilgrims. 4. Return to Basle, and re- | 


embarkation on the Rhine. 5 & 6 form 
one picture, the groups and backgroimd 
being continued from one to the other 
—the martyrdom of Conan and of St. 
Ursula in the camp of the Emperor 
Maximin, on the banks of the Rhine. 
“ These little pictures are among the 
very best productions of the Flemish 
school. The drawing in these small 
figures is much more beautiful than in 
the larger ones by the same master. 
There is nothing in them meagre, stiff, 
or angular: the movements are free; 
the execution and tone of colour, with 
all its softness, very powerful; the ex¬ 
pression in the single heads of the 
highest excellence.”— Kugler. 

The large unaltered Gothic hall, with 
rows of pointed arches on piers forming 
3 aisles, was used as a hospital ward 
down to 1850. The patients are now 
nursed in a more convenient modem 
building. 

A statue of Memling has been set up 
in the Place du Vieux Bourg. 

The Hotel de Ville is an elegant 
Gothic structiu'e, though of small di¬ 
mensions, built in 1377. The niches in 
front are decorated with statues of the 
Counts of Flanders; replacing originals 
which, on the arrival of the French 
revolutionary army, in 1792, were 
pulled down, as “representations of 
tyrants ” and burnt in a bonfire, 
the materials of which were com¬ 
posed of the gallows, the scaffold, 
and the wheel. At a bronze balcony 
(Breteque) in front of the building the 
Counts of Flanders presented them¬ 
selves to the citizens after their acces¬ 
sion, and took the oaths, promising to 
obey the laws and maintain the privi¬ 
leges of the town. The Public Library 
(open 10-3) is placed in the Grand 
Hall, extending nearly the whole length 
of the building, and is remarkable 
for its Gothic roof of wood. It is 
well furnished in the departments of 
French and Flemish literature, and 
contains a few curious MSS. Among 
other curiosities is a Missal of the 14th 
cent., and the scheme of a lottery 
drawn at Bruges in 1445—an earlier 
date than is usually given to the inven¬ 
tion of lotteries, which renders it pro- 







128 


Sect. II. 


ROUTE 21 . —BRUGES. 

bable that they originated in Flanders, 
and not in Italy, as is commonly be¬ 
lieved. 

Adjoining the H. de Ville is the * Palais 
de Justice, anciently called Palais du 
Franc de Bruges (the liberty of Bruges, 
an extensive district independent of the 
town). The back view of this building, 
toward the Fish-market, is picturesque. 
The Council Chamber of the magistrates 
as particularly deserving of notice: it is 
antique, though the rest of the building 
dates from 1722. It contains a mag¬ 
nificent * chimney-piece, occupying one 
side of the room, carved in oak (date 
1529), including statues as large as life, 
and well executed, of Charles V., Mary 
of Burgundy and Maximilian, Charles 
the Bold and Margaret of York, his 
third wife, surrounded with coats of 
arms of Burgundy, Spain, &c. It is 
also decorated with marble bas-reliefs 
representing the story of Susannah. 

An external staircase of florid Gothic 
(date 1533) leads up to a Gothic chapel 
in the corner of the square at the oppo¬ 
site end of the Town House, called La 
Chapelle du Saint Sang from some drops 
of our Saviour’s blood, brought by Count 
Thierry of Alsace from the Holy Land, 
and presented by him to the town, and 
now deposited in a richly jewelled and 
enamelled shrine of silver gilt, executed 
in 1617 by Jean Crabbe. This was kept 
in a chest placed in the wall of the Sa- 
cristry, leading out of the Upper Chapel, 
which has been magnificently restored 
in polychrome. Here is a singular sphe¬ 
rical pulpit with medallions carved in 
wood, 16th centy., and a modern carved 
reredos. Admission by fee of 5 fr. at all 
times. On Sundays 11 to 1 free. The 
crypt, called the Chapel of St. John, is 
the oldest building in Bruges, perhaps 
of the 9th centy. Here are preserved 
some valuable ancient vestments , a cha¬ 
suble with embroidery of the 4th centy., 
much fine lace. 

John Yan Eyck, the painter, who 
died at Bruges, 1441, was buried in the 
former cathedral of St. Donatus, demo¬ 
lished by the French, which stood op¬ 
posite the Hotel de Ville. Its site is 
planted with trees. In the midst of 


PUBLIC BUILDINGS. 

which a worthless coloured plaster 
statue of Van Eyck has been erected. 

The Musee of the * Academy of Painting 
{admission 50 cents; free on Sundays), 
in the Gothic building called Het 
Poorters Huis, originally the factory of 
the Biscayans, Academie Plaets, con¬ 
tains some fine old paintings. The most 
remarkable are,—by J. Van Eyck :—1. 
The Virgin and Child, with St. George 
and St. Donatus; the donor on his 
knees, with an expression of intense 
devotion, holding a pair of spectacles ; 
date 1436. It has great character of 
nature, and is very minutely finished. 
2. A portrait of his wife is painted in 
a very superior style, and deserves mi¬ 
nute attention. 3. A head of Christ, 
with the date 1440, although it bears 
his signature, is hard, lifeless, and poor, 
and not considered genuine. 

School of Memling: —An altar-piece 
with folding-doors; in the centre the 
Baptism of Christ; on the wings por¬ 
traits of the donor of the picture, his 
wife and family; and on the outside 
the Virgin and Child. The landscape 
back-ground is finely finished. It was 
formerly in the Town-house. 

An altar-piece by Memling, but in¬ 
jured by time and cleaning, represents 
St. Christopher with the infant Jesus 
on his shoulders. St. Benedict, rt., St. 
Giles, 1. The portraits of the donors 
of this picture, and their family, are 
very fine. Other pictures here are at¬ 
tributed to Memling, but their genuine¬ 
ness is doubted. Not undeserving of 
notice are 2 portraits of a burgess of 
Bruges and his wife (1554), and 2 Last 
Judgments, by Porbus the elder, and 
another, the Judgment of Cambyses, 
2 subjects, by Ant. Claessens the elder. 

On the S. side of the The Grande Place 
stand * Les Halles, a picturesque building 
(date 1364), of red brick (not to be con¬ 
founded with the Town Hall) one wing 
of which was intended to be a cloth-hall; 
the other is occupied as a flesh-market. 
The tower or belfry in its centre is a 
Gothic structure, imposing from its 
height, 290 ft. The view from its top is, 
as may be supposed, extensive; it com¬ 
mands the roofs of the city, and a sort 
of map-like panorama of the sur¬ 
rounding country. The Chimes (§ 26) 



Belgium, route 2 L— -Bruges* rrinssenhof* guild-halls. 120 


from this tower are the finest in Eu¬ 
rope, and almost incessant: they are 
played 4 times an hour by machinery, 
which may be seen near the top of the 
tower. It consists of an enormous 
brass cylinder, acting like the barrel of 
an organ, and setting in motion the 
keys of the instrument; but on Sun¬ 
days, from Ilf to 12, the chimes are 
played by a musician. 

On the S. side of the square, at the 
corner of the Rue St. Amand, is the 
house inhabited by Charles II. during 
his exile from England. It bears the 
sign “ An Lion Beige." Even in his 
banishment he was not without a regal 
title, for the Burghers of Bruges elected 
him “ King of the Company of Cross¬ 
bowmen” (Roi des Arbaletriers). 

An Estaminet, in the opposite comer 
of the Rue St. Amand, now occupies 
the site of the Craenenburg , historically 
remarkable as having been the prison 
of the Empr. Maximilian, 1487-8, 
when his unruly Flemish subjects, irri¬ 
tated at some infringement of their 
rights, rose up against him, seized his 
person, and shut him up in this building, 
which they had fortified, and converted 
into a prison by barring the windows. 
For several weeks he remained in close 
confinement, and the citizens kept watch 
and ward over him. The Pope menaced 
them with excommunication, and the 
armies of the Empire were put in march 
against them. Nevertheless, Maxi¬ 
milian was not released until he had 
sworn upon his knees, before an altar 
erected in the middle of this square, in 
presence of magistrates, corporation, 
and people, to resign his claims to the 
guardianship of his son, to respect the 
liberties of Bruges, and to grant a 
general amnesty for past offences against 
his person and government. He ratified 
this treaty by the most solemn oaths on 
the sacrament, the relics of St. Donatus, 
and a fragment of the true cross, in spite 
of which he broke it a few weeks after. 

The Prinssenhof —the ancient palace 
of the Counts of Flanders, in which 
the marriage of Charles the Bold with 
Margaret of York, sister of Edward 
IV., was celebrated in 1468, and where 
Philip le Bel, father of Charles V., was 
born—is reduced to a few fragments of 


ruined wall included in a private house, 
but retains the old name ; it is near the 
Rue Noordzand. 

The Hall of the Serge-makers' Guild 
(date 1383), with a bas-relief of St. 
George and the Dragon over the door; 
the house of the English Merchants' Com¬ 
pany, in which Caxton is said to have 
resided while learning the art of print¬ 
ing ; the house of Count Egmont, a few 
paces from the H. du Commerce, are 
buildings interesting from age, archi¬ 
tecture, or associations. 

The Beguinage , or Convent of Beguine 
Nuns, near the western extremity of 
the town, is inferior in extent to the one 
at Ghent; but travellers ought to visit 
one or other of these interesting esta¬ 
blishments. 

The Archers' Guilds deserve notice; 
in the hall of the Fraternity of St. Se¬ 
bastian or the cross-bowmen (Rue des 
Carmes) is a bust of our Charles II., and 
a portrait of his brother the D. of Glou¬ 
cester. From the tower in the archery 
ground there is a good view of Bruges. 

English Ch. Service is performed on 
Sundays at 11 and 3 p.m. in the Chapel 
Rue d’Ostende. 

The Ramparts , extending all round 
the tow, are an agreeable walk. 

Bruges is the cheapest place in Eu¬ 
rope in point of house-rent; a -first-rate 
house, equal to one in a square in Lon¬ 
don, may be had for 20/, per ann., and 
a fair house for 12/. A house has not 
been built here for 100 years; but as 
the town once held 300,000 inhab., it 
is over-housed at present. Taxes are 
low ; there is no Octroi; a man-servant 
gets 20/. a year, and finds himself. 
Teachers chai’ge 1 fr. an hr. for lessons. 
Food is not dearer than in other parts 
of Belgium. 

The chief manufacture carried on in 
the town is that of lace. 

In the three Latin lines already 
quoted, § 25, this town is said to be 
famed for pretty girls. Bruges has not 
lost its reputation in this respect; and 
many a fair face and pair of black eyes 
will be met with peeping out from 
under the black hood of the mantle, 
called faille, which is generally worn by 
the females of the lower orders, or sur- 

G 3 




130 


ROUTE 21.—BRUGES TO GHENT. 


Sect. II. 


rounded by tbe primly plaited frills of a 
lace cap. 

Simon Stevin, of Bruges, was one of 
tbe best mathematicians of bis age; be 
recommended, but did not invent, 
decimal arithmetic. He is tbe inventor 
of what is now .called Bramah’s press. 
There is a heavy, ill-draped statue of 
him in the Place de Simon Stevin. 

The famous order of the Golden 
Fleece was established by Philip the 
Good, in 1430, at Bruges. In the 
symbol of this institution he paid a 
just compliment to the skill of the 
weavers of Flanders, who, by the per¬ 
fection to which they had brought the 
manufacture of wool, had mainly contri¬ 
buted to the rapid advancement in 
prosperity of this country diming the 
middle ages. The fleece, therefore, was 
very appropriately chosen as an emblem 
of the power and splendour of the 
rulers of Flanders. During the discon¬ 
tents which broke out in Belgium in 
the 14th cent., Edward III. invited 
many Flemings to England, who 
brought over with them the art of 
manufacturing the finer woollen cloths, 
previously unknown, and by their as¬ 
sistance we soon surpassed those of 
Flanders in excellence. 

Six canals concentrate at Bruges, 
from Ghent, Sluis (Ecluse, the port of 
Bruges), Nieuport, Furnes, Ypres, and 
Ostend. 

The principal Club suitable for 
strangers is the Societe Litteraire de la 
Concorde. 

Post Office, Hue de Cordoue. 

Blankenbergh (Inn , Grand Hotel des 
Families, near the lighthouse, 200 
rooms ; a more moderate hotel is Maison 
des Bains), a frequented watering-place 
and fishing village on the coast, is about 
10 m. distant, and is reached by Rail 
in 30 min., 8 trains daily. It has an 
Assembly-room and 2000 Inhab. 

Damme, now a small village, about 
3 m. on the Sluys road, flourished as 
the port of Bruges, chiefly about 1200, 
when its basins held 1000 sail, where 
now is a fertile plain, owing to the 
silting up of the gulf of the Zwyn. 
It has a fine eh., St. Mary’s, partly in 
ruins, built early in the 13th centy. 
It contains an old rood-screen and some 


incised slabs. The Hotel de Ville is an 
interesting edifice of the 14th centy. 
with fine hall. Off the town of Sluys, 
12 m. from Bruges, Edward III. gained 
a great naval victory over the French 
fleet 1340. 

Bruges to Ghent. (45 kilom. = 28^ m.) 

Trains in 40 min. The Railway Sta¬ 
tion at Bruges is on the Yrijdags Markt. 
There are 2 lines— a. by Maldeghem 
and Eccloo, 30 m.; b. Chemin de fer de 
l’Etat, shorter—as follows. 

The Grand Canal between Bruges 
and Ghent is bounded by high banks 
on each side, and for the greater part of 
the distance is lined with tall trees, en¬ 
livened by occasional villas and neat 
gardens. 

“ Europe can boast no richer, goodlier scene, 

By fertile fields and fruitful gardens green.” 

Dante {Infer, xv. 4-6) compares the 
embankment, which separated the River 
of Tears from the sandy desert, with 
that which the Flemings have thrown 
up between Ghent and Bruges against 
the assaults of the sea:— 

“ Quale i Fiamminghi tra Guzzante e Bruggia, 

Temendo ’1 fiotto che inver lor s’avventa, 

Fanno lo schermo, perche ’1 mar si fuggia,” 

The Railroad is carried a little to the 
S. of the canal, nearly parallel with it. 

12 Bloemendael Stat. 

10 Aeltre Stat. 

7 Hansbeke Stat. 

3 Landeghem Stat. 

13 Ghent Stat., on the S.E. side 
of the town. Here is a Buffet, Restau¬ 
rant and Cabinet de Toilette, a great 
convenience to travellers. The trains 
leave the station by the same rails on 
which they enter it. On the high 
ground to the 1 ., on arriving, and on 
the other side of the Schelde, is the new 
Citadel; the church on the hill, with 
a dome, is St. Pierre. 

Ghent (French, Gand ; Germ. Gent). 
— Inns: H. Royal, good, on the Kauter 
or Place d’Armes, table-d’hote at 1 and 
4 ; H. de la Poste, moderate, clean, and 
quiet. 2nd Class: H. de Vienne, good 
table-d’hote at 1 ; Paradis; Lion d’Or; 
H. des Pays-Bas, Marche aux Grains’ 
very comfortable, but small. 




131 


Belgium * route 21. 

Ghent lies at the junction of the rivers 
Schelde and Lys, whose numerous 
branches, traversing the town, form 
canals in all directions : it has 123,000 
Inhab. In the time of Charles V. this 
Avas, perhaps, the largest and most popu¬ 
lous city of Europe. It contained 35,000 
houses and 175,000 Inhab.; and that 
emperor used sportively to say that he 
could put all Paris into his glove (gant). 
The circumference of its walls at the pre¬ 
sent day measures between 7 and 8 m. 
In the 10th cent, it was the capital of 
Flanders, but in process of time the 
turbulent weavers, among Avhom a spirit 
of independence had early begun to 
Avork, rose up against their feudal su¬ 
periors,- and threw off their yoke, or 
obtained from them concessions and 
immunities which formed the origin of 
popular rights in Europe. At length its 
burghers became so bold and warlike, 
that they Avere able to repulse from their 
walls 24,000 English, commanded by Ed¬ 
ward I., in 1297; and contributed to beat 
the elite of the French chivalry at Com-- 
tray, in the “ Battle of Golden Spurs.” 
Their allegiance, both to the Counts of 
Flanders and Dukes of Burgundy, seems 
to have been little more than nominal; 
since, AA r henever these seigneurs at¬ 
tempted to impose a tax Avhich was un¬ 
popular, the great bell sounded the 
alarm, the citizens fleAV to arms, and 
slew or expelled from the town the 
officers appointed by their sovereign. It 
did not take long to equip an armament 
of burghers and artisans, Avho had 
weapons always at hand, and who re¬ 
paired to the scene of action in their 
every-day or working dress, only dis¬ 
tinguished by a badge, such as a Avhite 
sleeve worn over it, or a white hood. 
Thus it happened that popular tumults 
Avere as frequent in the 14th and 15th 
cent, in Ghent as they have been in 
Paris in the 19th, and rather more 
difficult to quell. On the other hand, 
it not unfrequently happened that the 
seigneur, aroused by some act of atro¬ 
city or insubordination, collected his 
forces together, and took signal and 
terrible vengeance. These courageous 
but undisciplined citizens then atoned 
for their audacity on the field of battle, 
being mowed down in thousands. After- 


—GHENT. 

wards came the season of retribution 
and humiliation for the toAvn: enor¬ 
mous subsidies Avere levied on it; its 
dearest privileges were confiscated; and 
its most honoured citizens and magis¬ 
trates Avere condemned to march out of 
the gates in their shirts, with halters 
round their necks, and to kiss the dust 
before the feet of their imperious lord 
and conqueror. The city of Ghent Avas 
several times forced to make such an 
abject and ludicrous act of submission. 
The immediate cause of its decline and 
ruin may be traced to this spirit of re¬ 
volt. The citizens, “ intoxicated Avith 
the extent of their riches and the ful¬ 
ness of their freedom,” engaged in a 
contest with their so\ r ereign, Philip the 
Good. It is no little proof of their vast 
resources that they were able to main¬ 
tain it from 1448 to 1453 ; but in the 
end they were compelled to submit, 
with abject humiliation, heavy fines, 
and loss of trade. 

In 1400 the city of Ghent is said to 
have contained 80,000 men capable of 
bearing arms. The number of weavers 
then amounted to 40,000, and they 
alone could furnish 18,000 fighting- 
men out of their corporation. A cus¬ 
tom derived from that period still exists 
in the toAvn:—a bell was rung at morn¬ 
ing, noon, and evening, to summon the 
weavers to their Avork and meals : Avhile 
it tolled, the drawbridges over the 
canals could not be raised for the pas¬ 
sage of vessels ; and other persons Avere 
even enjoined not to go out into the 
streets, for fear of interrupting the vast 
stream of population; Avhile children 
were carefully kept Avithin doors, lest 
they should be trodden under foot by 
the passing multitude. 

Though fallen from its high estate, 
it does not display the same signs of 
decay and listlessness as Bruges: it is 
still the Belgic Manchester. In 1804, 
Avhile united to France, it Avas ranked 
by Napoleon as the third manufacturing 
town in his dominions,—after Lyons 
and Itouen. Considerable manufactures 
are carried on here, especially that of 
cotton. In 1801 a clever Fleming, 
named Lieven Bauens, brought over 
from Manchester English workmen and 
spinning jennies. The manufacture 







132 


Sect. II. 


ROUTE 21.' —GHENT. 

quickly took root, so as to employ in a 
few years more than 30,000 workmen, 
and 60 to 80 steam-engines. The 
Treaty of Peace between Great Britain 
and the United States, which has been 
maintained for 45 years, was signed at 
Ghent, 1815. 

The picturesqueness of the old houses 
of Ghent, the fantastic variety of gable 
ends rising stepwise, or ornamented 
with scrolls and carving, arrest the 
stranger’s eye at every turn. (See § 25.) 
Among the chief buildings— 

The Bejfroi—Belfry Tower —280 ft. 
high, is one of the most ancient in the 
town, having been begun 1183. It has 
been repaired (1855), and a spire of iron, 
painted to look like stone, placed upon 
it. One of the earliest privileges which 
the citizens obtained from their feudal 
lords was to be allowed to build a 
belfry, and they long regarded it as 
a kind of monument of their power 
and wealth. It originally served as a 
watch-tower, from which the approach 
of an enemy might be descried, and it 
contained the tocsin-bell, by the toll¬ 
ing of which the citizens were called 
together to arms or to debate. One of 
the bells still bears this inscription :— 
“ Mynennaem is Boelant: als ick clippe 
dan is brandt; als ick luyde, dan is 
Storm im Ylaenderlandt.” The Gilt 
Dragon on the top, which the Gantois 
carried otf from Bruges in the wars of 
the 14th cent., as a trophy of their 
conquest of that town under the gene¬ 
ralship of Philip Van Artevelde, has been 
re-gilt 1851. It originally decorated 
one of the Greek churches in Constan¬ 
tinople, and was brought from thence 
by the men of Bruges who went on the 
first crusade as soldiers of Baldwin 
Count of Flanders. The charters, title- 
deeds, and records of Ghent were ori¬ 
ginally deposited in the lower part of 
the building ; it now serves as a prison. 

The view from the top is certainly 
far more striking than that from the 
great tower at Bruges. The entrance 
is through a shop at its base—1 franc 
admission. 

Charles V., when recommended by 
the cruel Alva to raze to the ground 
this town, whose rebellion had given 
him so much trouble, took him to the 


REFFROI. CATHEDRAL. 

top of the Befiroi, and, showing him 
the vast city spread out beneath, asked, 
“ Combien ilfallait de pcaux d’Espagne 
pour faire un gant de cette grandeur ?” 
—How many skins of Spanish leather 
would it take to make such a glove ?— 
thus rebuking the atrocious suggestion 
of his minister. 

It is, indeed, an interesting prospect; 
the number of the squares, and width 
of the streets, admit the eye to range 
over something more than mere roofs 
of houses. Besides the towers and 
steeples of many churches, and the im¬ 
posing mass of the Town Hall close at 
hand, in the distance may be perceived 
the site and ruined chapel of the Citadel, 
built by Charles V. to overawe the citi¬ 
zens. Beyond this, if we continue the 
survey, is the Great Beguinage, with 
its streets and squares; and, following 
the line of ramparts, still further to the 
left, near the Promenade of the Coupure, 
the Maison de Force, a vast building, 
resembling a wheel in its ground plan, 
with the steeple of the prison church 
rising in the centre. 

The Cathedral of St. Bavon (Flem. St. 
Baefs), a pointed Gothic edifice, is of 
less interest for its architecture than 
for its rich decorations and the objects 
which it contains. It was founded in 
the 12th centy., but the crypt is the 
only part remaining of that age. The 
ch. was rebuilt 1228-76. The choir 
and transepts are lined with black mar¬ 
ble ; the balustrades are of white or 
variegated marble, a species of decora¬ 
tion which, though splendid, yet, being 
in the Grecian style, by no means befits 
a Gothic church : the gates of the cha¬ 
pels are of brass, and statues and paint¬ 
ings ornament every vacant space. Over 
the choir, at a considerable elevation, 
are affixed the arms of the knights of 
the Golden Fleece. The last (23rd) 
chapter of the order was held in this 
church by Philip II. of Spain, 1559. 
The pulpit was carved by Delveaux, an 
artist of Ghent. 

The high altar itself is a remarkable 
object, bearing the statue of St. Bavon, 
in his ducal dress, by Verbruggen. In 
front of it are 4 tall copper candlesticks, 
remarkable as having belonged to King 
Charles I. It is supposed that they 



133 


Belgium, ROUTE 21.— GHENT. CATHEDRAL. TICTURES. 


may have adorned the chapel of "White¬ 
hall, or St. Paul’s church, and that they 
were sold and sent out of England in 
the Protectorate of Oliver Cromwell. 
They still bear the Tudor arms of the 
date of Edward VI. On each side of 
the choir, near the altar, are handsome 
monuments, with statues of 4 bishops 
of Ghent. The finest is that of Bp. 
Van Tricst, by Duquesnoy. 

The 24 chapels in the side aisles and 
round the choir contain pictures, which 
are here enumerated in order, begin¬ 
ning with that on the rt. hand as you 
enter the west door; those in the 5th, 
10th, 13th, and 14th chapels are pro¬ 
ductions of first-rate excellence, which 
deserve attentive consideration. 

In the first chapel on the rt. is a 
painting by G. de Crayer —The Behead¬ 
ing of St. John. 2. Paelinck —St. 
Colette receiving a Grant from the 
Magistrates of Ghent to establish a 
Convent. 3. Gauoer —St. John baptiz¬ 
ing Christ. 4. Jansens —Our Saviour’s 
Body in the Lap of the Virgin. 5. The 
first chapel in the upper church behind 
the choir : Francis Porbus —Jesus in the 
midst of the Doctors : most of the faces 
are portraits; among them Charles V. 
and Philip II. may be distinguished : 
it is a beautiful painting, hut in a bad 
light. 6 . G. de Grayer —Martyrdom of 
St. Barbe. 7. Vander Meiren (a pupil 
of Van Eyck)—Christ between the Two 
Thieves. 8 . Vander Heuvel — The 
Woman taken in Adultery. In the 
11 th chapel or 6 th beyond the transept 
is one of the finest works ever produced 
by the early Flemish school—the mas¬ 
terpiece of the brothers Hubert and 
John Van Evck (date 1432), celebrated 
all over Europe. The subject is the 
♦Adoration of the spotless Lamb. In 
the centre is seen the Lamb as described 
in the Revelations, surrounded by an¬ 
gels, and approached by worshippers in 
4 groups : on the rt. (of the spectator), 
above, the holy virgins and female 
saints ; below, the apostles and saints of 
the New Testament: on the 1. above, 
the bishops and founders of monastic 
orders, below appear the patriarchs 
and prophets of the Old Testament; 
while in the horizon rise the Towers of 
the New Jerusalem (said to he those of 


Bruges, Utrecht, Cologne, and Maes- 
trieht). Two of the figures in the rt. 
hand corner of the picture represent 
the brothers Van Eyck. More than 300 
heads may he counted in this won¬ 
derful production, all finished with the 
most scrupulous minuteness. The 
upper part of the picture contains, 
in three compartments, the figures of 
God the Father, with John the Baptist 
on the one side, and the Virgin on the 
other. The beauty and grace of her 
countenance are only surpassed, pro¬ 
bably, by some of the Madonnas of 
Raphael. 

This picture is remarkably free from 
the stiffness of the early school: the 
finish of the faces is most elaborate, 
and the strength and freshness of the 
colours in a painting 400 years old is 
truly wonderful. Sir Joshua says, 
“ The figures are painted in a hard 
manner, but there is great character of 
truth and nature in the heads, and tho 
landscape is well coloured.” 

Two pairs of shutters or folding doors 
below, and two above, painted within 
and without, originally formed part of 
this picture. The whole was taken to 
Paris by Napoleon, but the centre por¬ 
tions alone were restored. The 6 most 
important of the wings are now in the 
Royal Museum at Berlin. The originals 
of these are now replaced by copies 
from the pencil of Michael Coxie; two of 
the wings, representing Adam and Eve, 
are in the Musee at Brussels. 

12 . G. Honthorst —The Descent from 
the Cross ; and, at the side, G. Grayer , 
the Crucifixion. 13. N. Roose —The 
Virgin, surrounded by Angels ; on the 
rt. is the monument of Bp. Van der 
Noot, who is kneeling before the Virgin ; 
opposite is the monument of another 
bishop, who is represented meditating 
on the scourging of our Lord. 15. 
contains a masterpiece of Rubens , but 
not well preserved— St. Bavon renounc¬ 
ing the profession of a Soldier to enter 
the Convent of St. Amand as a Monk. 
The figure of the saint is said to 
be a portrait of the artist himself. 
“This picture was formerly the orna¬ 
ment of the high altar of this cathedral, 
but was displaced to make room for an 
ordinary piece of sculpture. When 





134 


ROUTE 21. —GHENt. CHURCHES. UNIVERSITY. Sect. II* 


'Rubens was thus degraded, one may 
conclude his fame was then not estab¬ 
lished: he had not been dead long 
enough to be canonised, as he may he 
said to be at present. The saint is re¬ 
presented in the upper part of the pic¬ 
ture, in armour, kneeling, received by a 
priest at the door of a church: below is 
a man, who may be supposed to be his 
steward, giving money to the poor. 
Two women are standing by, dressed in 
the fashion of the times when Rubens 
lived : one of them appears to he pulling 
off a chain, which falls from her neck, 
as if she intended to follow the example 
before her. This picture, for composi¬ 
tion, colouring, richness of effect, and all 
those qualities in which Rubens more 
particularly excelled, claims a rank 
among his greatest and best works.”— 
R. It was also carried to the Louvre. 
Otto Vennius —The Resurrection of 
Lazarus; very good. 16. Seghers — 
Martyrdom of St. Lieven. 17. A copy 
from Rubens , the Martyrdom of St. 
Catherine. Opposite is the monu¬ 
ment of Bishop Van Eersel. 19. M. 
Coexie —The Seven Works of Mercy. 
Descending again l \nto the lower church, 
we reach the 21st chapel. Here 
stands the font at which Charles V. 
was baptized. G. Grayer — Assump¬ 
tion of the Virgin. 22. G. Grayer — 
St. Macarius praying for those afflicted 
with the Plague, whilst he is him¬ 
self struck by the Pestilence; a good 
picture. 24. Huffel —St. Lambert car¬ 
rying coals on his Surplice to set fire to 
the Incense. 25. Rombouts —The De¬ 
scent from the Cross. 

In one corner of the Crypt under the 
choir lie buried Hubert Van Eyck and his 
sister, also a painter, who may be said 
to have been literally wedded to the 
art, since she rejected all offers of mar¬ 
riage in order to devote herself to it. 
This Crypt is reputed very ancient, 
but a large proportion of the low stumpy 
pillars are probably of the same age as 
the upper structure, and added as sup¬ 
ports to it. St. Bavon suffered material 
injury from the fanatic depredations of 
the iconoclasts in 1566; 400 of the 
lowest class of the people, entering the 
church by night, commenced by torch¬ 
light the work of demolition, dashing 


the images and painted glass to pieces 
with their pole-axes, effacing the rich 
sculpture, and cutting the pictures to 
shreds. Within 3 or 4 days every 
church in Ghent shared a like fate* 
Philip II.’s vengeance, thus aroused^ 
brought upon Belgium the curse of 
the Inquisition and. the scourge Of an 
Alva:—confiscation, exile, or deathj 
were the consequences. 

In the Church of St. Michael u is, or 
rather was, the celebrated Crucifixion of 
Vandyk , for it is almost destroyed by 
cleaning. It appears, by what remains, 
to have been one of his most capital 
works. Vandyk has here introduced 
a most beautiful horse in an attitude 
of the utmost grace and dignity. This 
is the same horse on which he drew 
Charles V., which is in the gallery at 
Florence ; the head of the emperor he 
copied from Titian.”— R. The picture 
has been so much injured and repainted 
that its original merits can hardly be 
determined. It stands in the N. tran¬ 
sept, with a curtain before it. Next to 
it is a picture by Paelink, 1811 (a pupil 
of David), the finding of the Cross by 
the Empress Helena, whose figure is 
a portrait of the Empress Josephine. 
There are numerous paintings by mo¬ 
dern Belgian artists in this church. 
The pulpit of carved mahogany, with a 
bas-relief of the Ascension, deserves 
notice. 

Opposite the N. door is the so-called 
House of Count Egmont , a fine example 
of the late flamboyant in domestic 
architecture. 

The Ch. of St. Anne, Place d’Artevelde, 
near the stat., is a modern Byzantine 
edifice, built 1853, from Roelandt’s de¬ 
sign. It is painted by modern Belgian 
artists. St. Nicholas is a fine ch. 

The University is a truly handsome 
modem edifice, with a noble Corinthian 
portico, copied from the Pantheon at 
Rome, built partly on the site of a 
college of Jesuits. " It was founded by 
William I., King of Holland, in 1826. 
The entrance-hall, the staircase, and 
the amphitheatre, where academic 
meetings are held and the prizes are 
distributed, are very fine, exhibiting 
great taste, and reflecting the highest 
credit on the architect, M. Roelandts. 




Belgium. route 21. —ghent. it. dE ville. market. 


The Museum of natural history is of 
considerable extent, and very good, espe¬ 
cially in its anatomical and osteological 
collections. The library amounts to 
80,000 volumes. The number of stu¬ 
dents is about 400. The entrance is be¬ 
hind, in the Rue Longue des Marais. 
This is one of two universities belonging 
to the State, Liege being the other. 

The * Hotel de Ville , not far from the 
Belfry, has two fa 9 ades in different styles 
(restored?). That to the N. including the 
elegant turret or tribune at the corner, 
in the richest flamboyant Gothic, over¬ 
laden with ornaments, dates from 1480- 
87 that to the E. added 1595-1628, in 
the style of the Italian Renaissance, 
facing the Marche au Beurre, has 
columns of 3 different orders one above 
another. The Congress of Confederates, 
who assembled in 1576 to expel the 
Spaniards from Belgium, signed the 
treaty known in history as the Pacifi¬ 
cation of Ghent in the Salle du Trone. 
The interior of the building displays 
one or two modem paintings, and no¬ 
thing of interest. 

The Museum or Academy , Rue St. 
Marguerite (entrance at the side of 
the Augustine Church, admission at all 
horn's with a fee of 5 fr.), has no good pic¬ 
tures. These are the best: Rubens — 
St. Francis receiving the Stigmata, or 
5 holy wounds; formerly in the Church 
of Recollets, where Sir J. R. saw it. 
He says of the figure of St. Francis, 
that it is “ without dignity, and more 
like a beggar; though his dress is mean, 
he ought surely to be represented with 
the dignity and simplicity of a saint. 
Upon the whole, Rubens would ap¬ 
pear to no great advantage in Ghent, 
if it was not for the picture in St. 
Bavon.”—21. The Last Judgment. M. 
Coxie —The Emperor Charles V. land¬ 
ing in Africa.—Francis I., made pri¬ 
soner at Pavia, yields up his sword 
to De Lannoy, a Flemish knight.— 
Rough sketches executed with great 
boldness, and made by Gaspar de Crayer 
to decorate the arch of triumph, erected 
on the occasion of the visit of the Infant 
Ferdinand to Ghent. J. Jordaens — 
The Woman taken in Adultery. T. 
Duchatel —The Installation of- the Em¬ 
peror Charles VI., 1668, as Count of 


13S 

Flanders, in the Marche au Ven- 
dredi; a great number of figures in 
the manner of Teniers. There are 
some modern pictures : by Gallait, 
Christ and the Pharisees; de Keyser, 
Verboekhoven, &c. 

The Marche au Vendredi (Vrijdags 
Markt) is a large square surrounded by 
ancient houses, named from the day on 
which the market is held in it. The 
ceremonies of the inauguration of the 
Counts of Flanders were celebrated on 
this spot with a pomp and splendour 
hardly to be conceived at present. 
Here also was the rendezvous of the 
“ Trades Unions” of the middle ages, 
whenever a real or supposed breach of 
the privileges of their guilds or corpo¬ 
rations on the parts of their rulers ex¬ 
cited these turbulent spirits, “ ces tetes 
dures de Flandres,” to rebellion. Here 
their standards were planted, around 
which they rallied in arms. On this 
spot, Jacques van Artevelde, descended 
from one of the noblest families of 
Flanders, but called the Brewer of 
Ghent, because he had enrolled himself 
in the corporation of brewers to flatter 
the popular vanity by ranking himself 
among the people, at the head of his 
partisans, chiefly weavers, encountered 
the opposite faction of fullers, in a civic 
broil, with such bloodthirsty fury, that 
the presence of the host, which was 
brought out upon the spot to separate 
the combatants, was disregarded, and 
1500 corpses of citizens slain by fellow- 
citizens were left on the square. The 
day was afterwards marked in the 
annals of the town as Evil Monday. 
It was in this place, 40 years after, that 
Jacques’s son, Philip van Artevelde, 
was saluted Ruwaert or Protector of 
Ghent, and received (1381) the oath 
of fidelity from his townsmen, when 
called upon to lead them against Louis 
de Male. A statue of Jaques by Dcvigne 
Quys has been set up here. The story 
of Van Artevelde is told in Henry 
Taylor’s drama. 

In the Marche au Vendredi, also, at 
a later period, under the Duke of Alva, 
were lighted the fires of the Inquisi¬ 
tion. Many thousands perished during 
those religious persecutions, which dis¬ 
persed the best and most industrious 








136 


ROUTE 21.—GHENT. VAN ARTEVELDE. 


Sect. II. 


citizens of Ghent oyer other lands, and 
struck a fatal blow at her commercial 
prosperity.—In a street close to the 
Marche, called the Mannekens Aert, is 
an enormous cannon, 18 ft. long and 10^ 
in circumference, named Be dulle Griete, 
or Mad Margery; it is of hammered iron, 
hooped like a tub, was made in the 
days of Philip le Bon, and used by the 
Gantois at the siege of Oudenarde, 1382, 
and again in 1452. It resembles the 
huge bombard in Edinburgh Castle, 
called Mons Meg. 

Going from the Place St. Pharailde, 
you pass under an arch designed by 
Arthur Quellyn, 1689, into the Marche 
aux Poissons, in one corner of which 
still stands the old turreted gate¬ 
way, called the Oudeburg , or S. Graven- 
steen, the Count’s castle, a relic of the 
castle of the Counts of Flanders, founded 
by Baldwin Bras de Fer, 868. The 
small portion that remains consisting of 
an old archway and turret (date 1180), 
is now incorporated in a cotton factory. 
The area within is occupied by houses 
of the meanest kind. It deserves to be 
visited, however, as one of the oldest 
buildings in Belgium. In the years 
1338-9 it was the residence of Edward 
III. and his family; and his Queen 
Philippa here gave birth to a son, who 
was called, from his birth-place, John 
of Gaunt. An intimate alliance ex¬ 
isted for many years between the men 
of Ghent, or Gaunt, and the English, 
particularly during the reigns of the 
Edwards. The Flemings were deeply 
interested in procuring our wool for 
their cloths; the English sovereigns, 
on the other hand, were glad to secure 
“ the good towns” and weavers of 
Flanders as allies to assist them in 
their designs upon the crown of France, 
and threatened to prohibit the exporta¬ 
tion of wool when the men of Gaunt 
opposed their wishes, or refused to em¬ 
brace their cause. 

Jacques van Artevelde, the Brewer 
of Ghent, was a faithful ally of Edward 
III., who used familiarly to call him 
“ his dear gossipand the Queen 
Philippa stood godmother to his son 
Philip. It was at his suggestion 
that Edward assumed the title of 
King of France, and quartered the 


fleurs-de-lis with the arms of England, 
from which they were not removed 
till 1802. The English connection 
was in the end fatal to Jacques, and 
led to his being killed by the citizens 
whom he had so often led as easily 
as sheep, by his talents, courage, and 
eloquence. In 1344 Edward III. 
crossed over to Sluis at the invitation 
of Jacques, who, relying on his influ¬ 
ence with the citizens, had promised to 
make him lord and heritor of Flanders, 
But this proposal was distasteful to the 
men of Ghent, who were unwilling to 
disinherit their natural lord ; and, dur¬ 
ing Van Artevelde’s absence to confer 
with Edward, the popular discontent 
against him, increased by rumours that, 
during his administration of the affairs 
of Flanders, he had secretly sent large 
sums of money out of the country to 
England, was excited in a high degree, 
and “ set them of Gaunt on fire.” “ As 
he rode into the town about noon, they 
of the town knew of his coming, and 
many were assembled together in the 
street where he should pass, and when 
they saw him they began to murmur, 
and to run together their heads in one 
hood, and said, ‘ Behold yonder great 
master who will order all Flanders 
after his pleasure, the which is not to 
be suffered.’ As he rode through the 
street he perceived that there was some 
new matter against him, for he saw 
such as were wont to make reverence 
to him as he came by turn their backs 
towards him and enter into their 
houses. Then he began to doubt, and 
as soon as he was alighted in his lodg¬ 
ing he closed fast his doors, gates, and 
windows. This was scant done but 
all the street was full of men, and espe¬ 
cially those of the small crafts, who 
assailed his house both behind and be¬ 
fore.” Though stoutly resisted, their 
numbers prevailed. Artevelde in vain 
addressed them from an upper window; 
the eloquent tongue was now little 
heeded in the frenzy of popular excite¬ 
ment. “When Jacques saw that he 
could not appease them, he drew in his 
head and closed the window, and so 
thought to steal out on the backside 
into a church that joined his house, 
but it was so broken that 400 persons 




ROUTE 21.— GHENT. CHARLES V. 


137 


Belgium. 

"were entered in, and finally there he 
Was taken and slain without mercy, and 
one Thomas Denys gave him his death 
stroke.” — Froissart. A metal shield 
on the balcony of a house near the cor¬ 
ner of the Place du Calendre marks the 
site of Van Artevelde’s house. The 
scene of his murder was near a side- 
door opening from it into the lane called 
the Padden Hoek (Toad’s Corner). 

Many military and commercial treaties 
were made with the English by both 
the Arteveldes: they aided each other 
with troops on land and ships at sea; 
and the connection between the two 
countries was not finally broken off 
until the time of Philip the Bold. 

The Empr. Charles Y. was born at 
Ghent, in the palace now pulled down, 
hut its site is marked by a street named 
after it, Cour des Princes. The tur¬ 
bulence and sedition of his subjects 
and fellow-citizens of Ghent repeatedly 
gave annoyance to Charles, till at 
length a more formidable insurrection 
broke out, which, spreading through 
Flanders, threatened to sever the pro¬ 
vince from his dominions. It originated 
in the discontent caused by his demand 
of an enormous subsidy from the citizens 
to carry on the war against France, 
which was soon fomented into open 
rebellion. Having put the town into a 
state of defence, they secretly tendered 
their allegiance to Francis I. He, how¬ 
ever, not only declined the offer, but 
very treacherously disclosed the secret 
to the Emperor. Charles was iu Spain, 
but no sooner did this intelligence reach 
his ears than he decided upon putting 
down the treason in person. To save 
time he daringly resolved to cross the 
dominions of his rival Francis (with 
whom he had recently been partially 
reconciled), trusting to his chivalrous 
generosity not to take advantage of this 
confidence. Great was the consterna¬ 
tion in Ghent when it was announced 
that Charles, who was supposed to be 
many hundred miles off, had suddenly 
arrived before the city, and had sur¬ 
rounded it with a large army. Mes¬ 
sengers were despatched to sue for his 
forgiveness, but, without granting con¬ 
ditions, he demanded instant admittance 
within the walls; then posting guards 


at the gates, he proceeded to take mea¬ 
sures for chastising the inhabitants. It 
was while deliberating on the punish¬ 
ment to be inflicted that the infamous 
Duke of Alva suggested the anni¬ 
hilation of the whole city. Charles, 
however, was satisfied with a cruel but 
less sweeping retribution; 14 of the 
ringleaders were beheaded, others were 
banished, and their goods forfeited. 
The city was declared guilty of leze- 
majeste, and, in consequence, the ma¬ 
gistrates and principal citizens, the 
chiefs of the guilds and of the corpora¬ 
tion of weavers, were compelled to pre¬ 
sent themselves before Charles in black 
gowns, with bare heads and feet, and 
with halters round their necks, and to 
demand pardon on their knees. He 
exacted as a further penalty that the 
magistrates should never appear in 
public without the halter. This, which 
was intended as a badge of ignominy, 
was afterwards converted into a decora¬ 
tion. The rope, in the course of years, 
became a rich silken cord, and was 
worn round the neck as an ornament, 
tied with a true lover’s knot in front. 
By the same sentence all the privileges 
of the city, together with the cannon 
and other arms of the commonalty 
(commune), of the trades, and of the 
weavers’ guild, were confiscated; and 
even the famous bell, called .Boland, 
which was convicted of having played 
a very turbulent part with its tongue 
during the insurrection, was taken down 
from the Beffroi. 

As a further check to their turbu¬ 
lence, and for the entire restriction 
of their liberties, the Emperor soon 
after laid the first stone of the old 
Citadel, outside the Porte d’Anvers, 
now pulled down. This fortress served 
afterwards as a prison to the Counts 
Egmont and Horn; and when the 
Flemings took up arms to throw off 
the Spanish yoke 1570, it was be¬ 
sieged by the townspeople under the 
Prince of Orange. It was long and 
vigorously defended by the Spaniards. 
At last 3000 men of Ghent, wearing 
white shirts over their clothes to dis¬ 
tinguish themselves, attempted to carry 
it by assault Nov. 10. The ladders, 
however, were too short, and they were 



138 ROUTE 21.— -GHENT. CITADEL. BlCGUINAGE. ' Sect. II # 


compelled to retire with loss. The next 
morning, while they were preparing to 
renew the attack, the Spaniards sent to 
capitulate. When at length terms were 
granted the besiegers were not a little 
astonished to see the Senora Mondragon 
march out at the head of 150 men and 
a number of women and children, the 
sole remains of the garrison, whom she 
had headed and commanded during the 
whole siege, in the absence of her hus¬ 
band the governor, assisted by the other 
females. 

The *Old Citadel was afterwards le¬ 
velled with the ground by a decree of 
the States General ; and the citizens, 
with their wives and children, working 
like common labourers, assisted in de¬ 
molishing the stronghold of tyranny. 
Near the Antwerp lily. Stat. maybe seen 
the only remains of it; some shattered 
walls, as well as parts of cloisters of 
the monastery of St. Bavon, and a 
small octagonal Baptistery or Chapel 
of St. Macarius, in the Romanesque 
style (date probably about 1067). It 
may interest the antiquary and archi¬ 
tect. 

The modem Citadel , begun 1822, 
finished 1830, and surrendered in Oct. 
of that year by the Dutch garrison 
to the Belgians, is situated on Mont 
Blandin, which is the end of the high 
land on which the western part of the 
city stands. It is one of the chain of 
fortresses defending the Belgian frontier, 
and commands the course of the Schelde 
and Lys. 

Ghent communicates with the sea by 
a grand Canal which enters the Schelde 
at Terneuse. It gives the city all the 
advantages of a seaport; vessels draw¬ 
ing 18 ft. water can unload in the 
basin under its walls. At Sas van 
Ghent, about 14 m. N., are sluices, by 
means of which the whole country could 
be laid under water. 

The * Be'guinage , Rue de Bruges, is one 
of the few nunneries not suppressed by 
Joseph II., or swept away by the torrent 
of the French Revolution. It is of great 
exent, with streets, squares, and gates 
surrounded by a wall and moat. It is 
cei-tainly worthy a visit. Strangers 
should repair to the chapel, at Mass 7 


a.m., or at 4*45 p.m. in winter, and 7’30 
in summer, when they will have an 
opportunity of seeing the whole sister¬ 
hood assembled. They amount to more 
than 600, and many are persons of 
wealth and rank. The sight of so large 
an assemblage, all in black robes and 
white veils (the ancient Flemish faille , 
which they still retain), barely illumi¬ 
nated by the evening light and a few 
lamps, has a picturesque effect. The 
novices are distinguished by a different 
dress; and those who have just taken 
the veil wear a chaplet round their 
heads. “ The chanting of a small, but 
by no means select choir, in the music 
gallery, derives its interest and impres¬ 
siveness from the framework (so to say) 
of scenery and costume in which it is 
set. As a whole the service is very 
striking, and should on no account be 
missed.” — H. F. C. The sisters live 
generally in separate houses. On the 
doors are inscribed the names, not of 
the tenant of the house, but of some 
saint who has been adopted as its pro¬ 
tectress. This is the principal esta¬ 
blishment of the order, which numbers 
in Belgium 6000 sisters. The Beguines 
are bound by no vow ; they may return 
into the world whenever they please, 
and sisters have been known to quit 
the order after having entered it. They 
attend to the sick in the Beguinage, as 
nurses, and are constantly seen at the 
Hospital. Many seek employment in 
making Lace , which may be purchased 
of them good, on moderate terms. 

There is an English Church service in 
the chapel on the Braband Dam, near 
the Stat. at 10’20 and 2"30. 

The Byloque (a Flemish word sig¬ 
nifying enclosure) is the principal Hos¬ 
pital of Ghent: it was founded 1225, 
and is capable of holding 600 sick. 
The refectory is an unusually fine spe¬ 
cimen of the brick architecture of the 
13th centy. Jacques van Artevelde, it 
is believed, was buried in the church 
of the Byloque, after having been as¬ 
sassinated in his own house. It was 
in the Byloque that he was proclaimed 
by his townsmen Ruwaert, or Protector 
of Flanders, and here he assembled the 
men of Ghent to plead in favour of an 



ROUTE 21. —GHENT. RAILROADS. DKNDERMONDE. 139 


Belgium. 


alliance between them and Edward 

III. 

The Promenades at Ghent are the 
double avenue of trees by the side of 
the Coupure , or canal, cut in 1758, to 
unite the Lys and the Bruges canal 
together, and the Boulevards facing the 
Schelde. Near the Coupure is the Peni¬ 
tentiary (Maison de Detention), an octa¬ 
gon building of vast extent, begun 1772, 
and finished 1824, It is particularly 
well managed, and was held up as a 
pattern by Howard the philanthropist, 
and has served as a model for many 
others, not only in Europe, hut in 
America. It is shown only to profes¬ 
sional men, physicians and surgeons. 

The New Casino , a handsome build¬ 
ing by Roelands, stands also near the 
Coupure, and is well worth notice. It 
has a literary and scientific, as well 
as a social destination. Splendid Flower 
Shows take place here in March and 
J une. 

The Kauter (a Flemish word signi¬ 
fying a field), or Place d’Armes, within 
the town, is a square planted with 
trees, and surrounded by large buildings, 
A military band plays here in summer 
on Sundays. 

The Palais de Justice , another striking 
building by Roelands, stands near the 
Theatre. The ground floor serves as 
the Exchange; the upper chambers are 
appropriated as courts of justice. 

On the Q,uai aux Herbes stands the 
Maison des Bateliers , perhaps the most 
picturesque house in Ghent, having the 
date 1513. The insignia of the water¬ 
men’s craft (whose guild was held here) 
and the arms of Charles Y. are carved 
on its gables (§ 25). 

The Halle au Bid, Quai aux Herbes, is 
another specimen of old domestic Gothic, 
date 1325. 

Hubert Yan Eyck, the painter, lived 
in a house at the corner of the Rue des 
Vaches and the Marche aux Oiseaux, 
near the Kauter: it has received a 
modern front. 

The Theatre stands in a narrow street 
not far from the Place d’Armes. Its 
saloon, concert and ball-rooms are mag¬ 
nificent. The building cost the town 
of Ghent 2,500,000 fr. It is open in 
autumn and winter. 


There is a Flemish theatre near the 
the Church of St. Peter, open on Sun¬ 
days. 

Concerts on Mondays and Fridays at 
the Zoological Gardens, near the Great 
Rly. Stat., and at the Casino, or Society 
of St. Cecile, on Sundays and Thurs¬ 
days at 6 o’clock. 

Of the Clubs of Ghent the principal is 
La Concorde. There are also V Union 
and the Societe royale des Chceurs. Ad¬ 
mission to any of them on the introduc¬ 
tion of a member. Strangers should 
apply to the hotel-keeper. 

The Nursery Gardens of Van Houtte 
and Co. are the largest and best stocked 
in Belgium. Many choice trees, shrubs, 
and flowers may be found here, and the 
gardens are a pleasant resort. 

The Post Office is in the Rue de 
1’Universite. Vigilantes , § 22. 

Railroads. — Ghent to Antwerp, via 
Lokeren, a line worked by a private 
company. Ghent to Bruges by Ecloo. 
Station near the old gate of Ant¬ 
werp. From the Great Station , near 
the Church of St. Pierre, run the several 
lines of the Chemins de Fer de l’Etat. 
To Brussels via Alost; to Antwerp via. 
Malines ; to Malines, Louvain, Liege; 
to Grammont, Mons; to Courtrai, Tour- 
nai, Lille, Paris; to Bruges and Os- 
tend. 


Railroad , Ghent to Mechlin , 56 kilom. 

Trains in lhr. to If hr. On quitting 
Ghent the Railway crosses the Schelde, 
and is carried along the S. side of it, 
approaching now and then one of its 
sweeping curves. 

7 Melle Stat. 

7 Wetteren Junct. Stat., 9000 Inhab. 
Branch Rly. to Alost. (Rte 19.) 

6 Wichelen Stat. 

7 Audeghem Junct. Stat. A branch 
Rly. to Alost 3 m. from this Stat. (See 
Rte. 19.) 

The river Dender is crossed before 
reaching 

2 Dendermonde Junction Stat. (Inns: 
Plat d’Etain ; Aigle. In a room at the 
Cigogne took place a secret meeting be¬ 
tween Wm. I. Prince of Orange, Egmont, 
Horn, and'Lewis of Nassau, to concert 
measures for resisting the tyranny of 
Philip II., 1566.) Termonde , oi’Den- 




140 


ROUTE 2lA. —BRUGES TO COURTRAI. 


Sect. II. 


dermonde, a name rendered familiar 
to English ears by “ my Uncle Toby’s” 
constant reference to the siege of 1706, 
is a primitive Brabant town of 17,000 
Inhab. and a strong fortress on the rt. 
bank of the Schelde, at its junction with 
the Lender. By means of sluices the 
surrounding country, which is marshy, 
can be laid under water. Louis XIV., 
who had been nearly drowned, along 
with his army, in attempting its siege 
in 1667, when told that Marlborough 
was about to besiege it, replied, “ he 
must have an army of ducks to take it.” 
Nevertheless, owing to the prevalence 
of a drought of 7 weeks, the garrison 
were quickly obliged to surrender un¬ 
conditionally to the English, 1706. The 
Gh. of Notre Dame, erected 1388, sur¬ 
mounted by an octagon tower, contains 
a Crucifixion and Adoration of the Shep¬ 
herds, by VanDyk; a Virgin andSaintsby 
Grayer; and an ancient font sculptured 
in the style of that at Winchester, out 
of a square block. The house of Teniers 
the younger is still pointed out, Rue de 
l’Eglise. 

9 Malderen Stat. 

10 Capelle-aux-Bois Stat. The Brus¬ 
sels canal is crossed just after leaving 
this station. 

The Louvain canal is crossed shortly 
before the railway reaches 

8 Mechlin Stat. (See Rte. 23.) 


ROUTE 21 a. 

BRUGES TO COURTRAI.—RAILWAY. 

52 kilom. = 32 Eng. miles. 

Bruges. (Rte. 21 .) Station the same 
as that of the Ghent and Ostend Rail¬ 
way. 6 trains a day in 1 hr. 10 min. to 
1 hr. 55 min.; many stops; very slow. 

Thorout Stat. Thorout—the “wood 
of Thor ” the Northern gqd, who was 
worshipped here—8194 Inhab., stands 
in a fertile but flat country. A little 


coarse woollen cloth and much excellent 
lace are manufactured here. It is a 
very ancient town, and at the beginning 
of the eighth centy. is mentioned as a 
place of considerable traffic. It has a 
small Stadhnis and a large collegiate 
church, but neither remarkable. Near 
it is the Castle of Wynendale, once a 
hunting-seat of Robert the Frison, 10 th 
Earl of Flanders (1090), and said to 
have been built by Odoacer V., Grand 
Forester of Flanders, in the early part 
of the 9th cent. 

Lichtervelde Junct. Stat. Here the 
line to Furnes and Dixmude (Rte. 17) 
diverges. 

8 k. Roulers (Rousselaere, Flem.) Stat. 
This town (Pop. 12 , 000 ) is seated on a 
small stream, the Mander, amidst very 
fine meadows. In ancient records it is 
called Rollarium in pratis. The Stadhuis 
is a long ancient building in the market¬ 
place, in the middle of the town. It 
has a large square tower, apparently 
more ancient than the body of the 
building, at its S. end, and a slender but 
graceful miniature spire in its centre. 
The Gh. of St. Michael is a plain and 
rather small structure, with a very 
beautiful spire, beginning of the 16th 
cent. Some of the best lace in Flanders 
is manufactured at Roulers, and a small 
quantity of woollen stuff. It is an im¬ 
portant linen-market. 

2 k. Rumbeke Stat. Gothic Gh. and 
chateau of the Count de Thiennes. 

5 k. Iseghem Stat., about 8000 Inhab. 
Cross the Maudelbeke, a tributary of 
the Lys. 

Ingelmunster Junct. Stat. (Branch 
line to Deynse passing Thielt, a town 
of 12,000 Inhab.) 

10 k. Courtrai Stat. (See Rte. 15 a.) 




Belgium. 


ROUTE 22.—GHENT TO ANTWERP. 


141 


ROUTE 22. 

GHENT TO ANTWERP.—RAILROAD. 

50 kil. = 31 Eng. m., 2 hrs., including 
ferry, express, 1^- hr. 

The station is near the Porte d’An¬ 
vers, 2 m. from the centre of the city 
of Ghent. 

There is another rly. to Antwerp, 
by Termonde and Malines (Rtes. 21 
and 23). 

The road passes through the Pays de 
Waes , one of the most populous districts, 
the best cultivated, and the most pro¬ 
ductive for its extent in all Europe. 
At the time of the civil wars in Flanders 
it was nothing more than a bare and 
open heath. At present there is not an 
inch of ground which is not rendered 
productive in the highest degree : every 
field receives as much care and atten¬ 
tion as a garden, or a bed of tulips; and 
the natural soil, little better than barren 
sand, has been covered artificially with 
the richest mould. (See Holland, In- 
trod. § 17.) Though the country is flat, 
it is far from uninteresting, being varied 
with large villages and neat farms, 
covered with beautiful cattle, the richest 
and closest fields of com or crops of 
flax, and inhabited by a healthy popu¬ 
lation. The district of St. Nicholas, 
perhaps the most thickly peopled in 
Europe in proportion to its extent, 
numbers 5210 inhab. upon every square 
league. The mode of farming pursued 
in this district is worthy the attention 
of every agriculturist. Such a pattern 
of laborious cultivation is not to be 
found in the whole of Europe. The 
land is singularly subdivided among a 
great number of small proprietors. In 
a distance of 18 m., 705 plots, belonging 
to 500 different persons, are crossed. 
Each holding averages § of a hectare, 
and is surrounded by hedges and trees. 

7. Loochristy Stat.; the castle, not far 
off, is an interesting specimen of the 
domestic architecture of the 16th cent. 
It is surrounded by a wide moat, ap¬ 
proached by a drawbridge. It was once 
a hunting-seat of the Bishops of Ghent. 

2 k. Beirvelde Stat. 

y Loheren J unct. Stat. (Inn, Quatre 


Sceaux), a town of 18,500 Inhab. 
The Ch. of St. Laurentius has a fine 
pulpit and confessional, and some pic¬ 
tures. There are extensive bleaching- 
grounds here. Railway to Ath, by Alost. 

St. Nicholas Stat. (Inn, II. de Flan- 
dres), 23,600 Inhab., said to have the 
largest market of flax in the world. Its 
great square is scarcely big enough to 
hold the crowd assembled on market- 
day (Thursday). 

10 Beveren Stat. Pop. 8000. 

Beyond the neat village of 

5 Zwyndrecht Stat. the cathedral of 
Antwerp comes in sight. For 3 years the 
whole district, and even the high road, 
lay many feet under water, introduced 
by cutting the dykes above the Tete de 
Flandre during the siege of Antwerp. 
12 Dutch gun-boats floated over the 
polders, or fields, which are many feet 
lower than the level of the river at high- 
w r ater. The coming and receding tides 
covered the surface with sand; and the 
ground, deprived of all vegetation, for 
a time remained a barren morass, in¬ 
terspersed with pools. 

Near Antwerp the Schelde makes so 
great a bend as to convert its 1. bank 
into a tongue of land. The only ap¬ 
proach to Antwerp on this side lies 
along the top of the dykes which inter¬ 
sect the low polders, and divide them 
from one another and from the Schelde. 
At the extremity of this tongue of land 
is situated the Fort called 

4 Tete de Flandre (het Ylaemsche 
Hoofd), Terminus, on the 1. bank of 
the river, exactly opposite Antwerp, 
forming a principal outwork and tete 
du pont to that fortified town. It con¬ 
tains a few small houses w T ithin its ram¬ 
part. Napoleon considered its situation 
more advantageous than even that of 
Antwerp, and designed to found a new 
city here. 

The Ghent railway station is here; 
the passengers and private carriages are 
embarked in a steam ferry-boat, which 
plies across the Schelde every £ hi'. 
The best view of Antwerp is obtained 
from this point. The Schelde is nearly 
500 yards wide here, and is deep enough 
for a 74-gun ship. The “ coupure,” or 
cutting of the dyke, by which the 
Dutch laid the land on the 1. bank imder 





142 


ROUTE 22.—ANTWERP. 


Sect. II. 


water for 3 years, was made a little way 
above the Tete do Flandre, opposite 
the citadel. The repairs of this breach 
cost 2 millions of francs. 

In going to Ghent tickets are taken 
on the quay at Antwerp. 

Antwerp (French, Anvers ; Flem. 
Antwerpen; Span. Amberes). Inns: 
# H. de 1’Europe, near the Post Office, 
very good ;—Hotel St. Antoine; table- 
d’hote at 5; both on the Place Verte, 
near the cathedral;—* Grand Laboreur, 
Place de Meir, very good and quiet; 
H. de la Poste, well managed. 2nd 
class Inns : H. des Pays-Bas; H. du 
Rhin, on the Scheldt, Quai Van Dyk. 

Antwerp is a strongly fortified city, 
with a citadel, on the rt. bank of the 
Schelde (l’Escaut, Fr.), which is here 
navigable for vessels of large burden ; 
the tide rises 12 ft., and the water is 
brackish. The most probable and sim¬ 
ple derivation of the name is from the 
Flemish words “ aen’t werf,” on the 
wharf, or quay. Antwerp contains 
125,000 Inhab. In the height of its 
splendour and prosperity, that is to say, 
in the 16th cent., it is said to have 
numbered 200,000, but it was then the 
richest and most commercial city in 
Europe. Its merchants, indeed, were 
princes in wealth, and their houses 
splendid palaces. No city of Belgium 
presents grander streets and squares, the 
finest of which is the Place de Meir; 
and the equally splended palatial resi¬ 
dence rising on the Boulevards which 
occupy the site of the old ramparts, 
and its magnificent line of Quays along 
the Schelde, are unrivalled in Belgium. 
The cathedral, near the centre of the 
town, is surrounded by several open 
squares, but there is near the Schelde 
an intricate labyrinth of narrow lanes, 
inhabited by the lower orders. An old 
author, describing the condition of Ant¬ 
werp in the days of Charles V., says 
that 2500 vessels were to be seen at 
one time lying in the river, laden with 
the productions of all quarters of the 
globe: 500 loaded waggons on an aver¬ 
age entered its gates daily from the 
country. The money put into circula¬ 
tion annually exceeded 500,000,000 
guilders, and 5000 merchants met twice 
every day on the Exchange. 


The tyranny of Alva, under the 
directions of his bigoted master, Philip 
II. of Spain, caused the decay and fall 
of its prosperity. The establishment 
of the Inquisition by him, and the 
persecutions occasioned by it, drove 
thousands of industrious inhabitants 
to seek an asylum elsewhere. To 
this persecution England is indebted 
for her silk manufactures, which were 
introduced by Flemish refugees from 
Antwerp, in the reign of Elizabeth. 
Another blow to its prosperity was the 
memorable siege of 14 months in 1585, 
which ended in its capture by the Duke 
of Parma, one of the most memorable 
exploits of modem warfare, whether 
we consider the strength of the place, 
the hearty resistance offered by the 
citizens, who yielded at last only when 
starved out by famine, or the political 
consequences resulting from it. Then 
came the loss of the navigation of the 
Schelde, which fell into the hands of 
the Dutch at the union of the Seven 
United Provinces ; and the subsequent 
closing of the river by the peace of 
Westphalia, 1648, completed its com¬ 
mercial ruin, from which it was only 
beginning to recover when the Revolu¬ 
tion of 1830 broke out, by which the 
profitable commerce carried on with 
the Dutch colonies was annihilated. 
Once more Antwerp has risen to be 
one of the prominent cities of Europe 
and the greatest port of Belgium. Since 
1862 a special transformation has oc¬ 
curred in consequence of the removal 
of the old ramparts, which has given 
great expansion to the commerce and 
extent of the city; while the construc¬ 
tion of fortifications on a wider circle, 
perhaps the most scientific in Europe, 
has converted Antwerp into an in¬ 
trenched camp. 

Antwerp enjoys a high reputation 
from its encouragement of the arts, and 
the eminent artists it has produced. At 
the head of this list, Rubens (who lived 
here, and whose parents were of Ant¬ 
werp) and Yandyk, besides Teniers, 
Jordaens, Quentin Matsys, &c., whose 
great works of art produced here, 
still remain behind: the power and 
genius of Rubens especially, whose 
masterpieces still exist here, are no- 






Published, by John ATurrxu/ Albenuir^c Street London 


Engraved L>y J. & C .Walker. 


"New Citadel 


17 House of the 
Hanseatic League II 

18 Beguinage Of 

19 Palais dc Justice E e 

20 Salle 1- ‘JEscpositUpit J F e 

21 Theatre des TcmetesD f 


, 1 Cathedral ...E d 

i 2 Si Jacques .. . 

i 3 St Paul f Dominicans ) . E d 

4 S?Augustin ... L) e 

'b Si^ 7 ndre . T>d 

6 St Antoine (CapxuUtnsl . Of 

7 St tJuvies (Jesuits) . Y e 

8 Museum, . E e 

9 Hotel de VHLe E d 

U » Hi 'iuse . E e 

11 Post Office .—. .. Ee 

12 Place Yerte . Ed 

13 Place de Meir . Ef 

14 Palais <Ju Roi . Ef 

jl5 Rubens House . .. Ef 

16 Theatre . . ... . Ef 


K Scale; 

Tards 0_200_Z00 _ ? 


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AHTWEIRIP. 

Longitude from G^ferrwicbL 4°22'E. 




















































nelgium. route 22.—Antwerp, cathedral. 143 


where else to be equally understood and 
appreciated. The Academy or Corpo¬ 
ration of St. Luke, in this city, for the 
encouragement of painting, was one of 
the oldest societies of the kind in Eu¬ 
rope ; it was founded in 1454 by Philip 
the Good, and endowed by Philip IV. 
of Spain, and may be regarded as the 
cradle of the Flemish school, which has 
made a fresh start in the 19th centy. in 
producing such painters as Leys, who 
was bom here, and others. A colossal 
statue of Rubens , by Geefs, a native of Ant¬ 
werp, has been erected on the Place Verte) 
a statue of Teniers was set up in 1867. 

Antwerp is the stronghold and chief 
military defence of Belgium, and is a 
Placed’ Armes strengthened by all the in¬ 
ventions of modern engineering. The 
plan of the city has been modified by its 
old fortifications, now removed , into the 
shape of a half-circle or bow, the chord 
being formed by the Scheldt. Through 
the centre of this, at right angles with 
the river, runs a great avenue, under 
the names of the Marche, the Place 
Verte, where is the Cathedral, and the 
Place de Meir , a long and wide street, 
formed by bridging over an old canal. 

The * Cathedral of Notre Dame 
(admission 1 fr. each person), one of 
the largest churches and most beau¬ 
tiful specimens of Gothic architec¬ 
ture in the Netherlands. It was 
erected between 1352 and 1411. The 
W. front and tower are of the 15th 
centy. The interior, divided into 7 
aisles, is simple and imposing: it is 
390 ft. long and 250 wide, and the 
effect of the vastness of its lofty choir 
and nave, with treble aisles on each 
side, is assisted by its being all finished 
on the same uniform plan, and left 
open. It was sacked by the icono¬ 
clasts in 1566, when its rich altars, 
ornaments, and sculptures, were either 
burned or carried off. In the choir a 
chapter of the Golden Fleece was held in 
1555 by Philip II. of Spain, at which nine 
kings and sovereign princes were pre¬ 
sent, and assisted as knights of the order. 

During all the morning (excepting 
Thursday 9-12) curtains remain inex¬ 
orably drawn before the pictures; at 
1 they are withdrawn, but no one is 
then admitted into the ch. without a 


ticket, which costs 1 fr. each person. 
It may be had near the door. 

The great attraction in this church is 
the masterpiece of Rubens—*the Descent 
from the Cross. It hangs commonly 
in the S. transept, near the door lead¬ 
ing out of the Place Verte. On one 
of the lateral pieces or folding doors 
is represented the Salutation of the 
\ irgin ; on the other the Presentation 
of the Infant Jesus in the Temple ; and 
on the back of them are a colossal 
figure of St. Christopher carrying the 
infant Saviour, and a hermit. 

“ This picture, of all the works of 
Rubens, is that which has the most 
reputation. I had consequently con¬ 
ceived the highest idea of its excellen¬ 
cies ; knowing the print, I had formed 
in my imagination what such a compo¬ 
sition would produce in the hands of 
such a painter. I confess I was disap¬ 
pointed. However, this disappointment 
did not proceed from any deficiency in 
the picture itself; had it been in the 
original state in which Rubens left it, 
it must have appeared very different; 
but it is mortifying to see to what de¬ 
gree it has suffered by cleaning and 
mending. That brilliant effect, which 
it undoubtedly once had, is lost in a 
mist of varnish, which appears to be 
chilled or mildewed. The Christ is in 
many places retouched, so as to be 
visible at a distance; the St. John’s 
head repainted; and other parts, on a 
close inspection, appear to be chipping 
off, and ready to fall from the canvas. 
However, there is enough to be seen to 
satisfy any connoisseur that in its perfect 
state it well deserved all its reputation. 

“ The composition of this picture is 
said to be borrowed from an Italian 
print. The greatest peculiarity of this 
composition is the contrivance of the 
white sheet on which the body of Jesus 
lies: this circumstance was probably 
what induced Rubens to adopt the com¬ 
position. He well knew what effect 
white linen, opposed to flesh, must 
have, with his powers of colouring,— 
a circumstance which was not likely to 
enter into the mind of an Italian 
painter,* who probably would have 

* Rubens possibly obtained the idea of this 
picture from a celebrated one of the same sub- 




144 


ROUTE 22. —ANTWERP. CATHEDRAL. 


Sect. II. 


been afraid of the linen’s hurting the 
colouring of the flesh, and have kept it 
down by a low tint. And the truth is, 
that none hut great colourists can ven¬ 
ture to paint pure white linen near 
flesh ; hut such know the advantage of 
it. I consider Rubens’s Christ as one 
of the finest figures that ever was in¬ 
vented ; it is most correctly drawn, and, 
I apprehend, in an attitude of the ut¬ 
most difficulty to execute. The hang¬ 
ing of the head on his shoulder, and the 
falling of the body on one side, give it 
such an appearance of the heaviness of 
death, that nothing can exceed it. 

Of the three Maries, two of them 
have more beauty than he generally be¬ 
stowed on female figures, but no great 
elegance of character. The St. Joseph 
of Arimathea is the same countenance 
which he so often introduced in his 
works—a smooth, fat face,—a very un- 
historical character. The principal light 
is formed by the body of Christ and the 
white sheet; there is no second light 
which bears any proportion to the prin¬ 
cipal. In this respect it has more the 
manner of Rembrandt’s disposition of 
light than any other of Rubens’s works; 
however, there are many detached lights 
distributed at some distance from the 
great mass, such as the head and 
shoulders of the Magdalen, the heads of 
the two Maries, the head of St. Joseph, 
and the back and arm of the figure 
leaning over the cross; the whole sur¬ 
rounded with a dark sky, except a little 
light in the horizon and above the cross. 

“ The historical anecdote relating to 
this picture says that it was given in 
exchange for a piece of ground (belong¬ 
ing to the guild of Arquebusiers) on 
which Rubens built his house; and that 
the agreement was only for a picture 
representing their patron, St. Christo¬ 
pher, with the infant Christ on his 
shoulders. Rubens, who wished to sur¬ 
prise them by his generosity, sent 5 
pictures instead of 1,—a piece of gal¬ 
lantry on the side of the painter which 
was undoubtedly well received by the 
Arquebusiers, since it was so much to 
their advantage, however expensive to 

jeet, in the church of the Trinita de’ Monti at 
Rome, by Daniel di Volterra, who was assisted 
in it by Michael Angelo: there is some simi¬ 
larity in the two works. 


j the maker of it. It was undertaken 
! 1611, and set up 1612. All those pic¬ 
tures were intended to refer to the name 
of their patron Christo-pher. 

“ In the first place, the body of 
Christ on the altar is borne by St. John, 
St. Joseph of Arimathea, Mary Magda¬ 
len, &c. On one side of the left door 
is the Salutation of Mary and Elizabeth. 
The Virgin here bears Christ before he 
is horn.”— R. 

The two doors when closed form a 
single picture, representing St. Christo¬ 
pher himself bearing the Infant on his 
shoulders, guided by the light of a 
hermit’s* lantern. “ The hermit appears 
to be looking to the other side; one 
hand holds the lantern, and the other 
is very naturally held up to prevent the 
light from coming upon his eyes. On 
the reverse of this door we have an¬ 
other Christopher, the priest Simeon 
bearing Christ high in his arms, and 
looking upwards. This picture, which 
has not suffered, is admirable indeed, 
the head of the priest more especially, 
which nothing can exceed; the expres¬ 
sion, drawing, and colouring are beyond 
all description, and as fresh as if the 
piece were just painted. The colouring 
of the St. Christopher is too red and 
bricky, and the outline is not flowing. 
This figure was all that the company of 
the Arquebusiers expected; but Rubens 
justly thought that such a figure would 
have made hut a poor subject for an 
altar.”— R. 

This picture, and the Elevation of 
the Cross, have undergone very ju¬ 
dicious reparation and cleaning ; so 
that it is probably in far better con¬ 
dition now than when seen by Sir 
Joshua. At any rate, it is the opinion 
of the best judges that his praise of this 
truly wonderful picture is on the whole 
too qualified. He has omitted to men¬ 
tion the well-known story of the share 
which Vandyk is said to have had in 
the painting. While the work was in 
progress, and during the absence of 
Rubens, the picture was thrown down 
by accident or carelessness of his pupils, 
and received serious injury in the fall. 
Vandyk was selected as the most skilful 

* Query: is not the hermit a priest carryinc; 
the Host? 




Belgium. 

hand among them to repair the damage, 
and succeeded so well, that Rubens, on 
his return, declared that he preferred 
his scholar’s work to his own. The 
parts restored by him were the cheek 
and chin of the Virgin, and the arm of 
the Magdalen. 

In the opposite or IST. transept is *the 
Elevation of the Cross , “ the first public 
work which Rubens executed after he 
returned from Italy. In the centre is 
Christ nailed to the cross, with a num¬ 
ber of figures exerting themselves in 
different ways to raise it. One of the 
figures appears flushed, all the blood 
rising into his face from his violent 
efforts; others in intricate attitudes, 
which, at the same time that they show 
the great energy with which the busi¬ 
ness is done, give that opportunity 
which painters desire, of encountering 
the difficidties of the art, in foreshort¬ 
ening and in representing momentary 
actions. This subject, which was pro¬ 
bably of his own choosing, gave him an 
admirable opportunity of exhibiting his 
various abilities to his countrymen; 
and it is certainly one of his best and 
most animated compositions. 

• “ The bustle which is in every part 
of the picture makes a fine contrast to 
the character of resignation in the cru¬ 
cified Saviour. The sway of the body 
of Christ is extremely well imagined. 
The taste of the form in the Christ, as 
well as in the other figures, must be 
acknowledged to be a little inclinable to 
the heavy, but it has a noble, free, and 
flowing outline. The invention of 
throwing the cross obliquely from one 
corner of the picture to the other is 
finely conceived — something in the 
manner of Tintoret: it gives a new and 
uncommon air to his subject, and we 
may justly add that it is uncommonly 
beautiful. The contrast of the body with 
the legs is admirable, and not overdone. 

“ The doors are a continuation of the 
subject. That on the left has a group 
of women and children, who appear to 
feel the greatest emotion and horror at 
the sight: the Virgin and St. John, 
who are behind, appear very properly 
with more resignation. On the other 
door are the officers on horseback at¬ 
tending ; behind them are the two 
[N. o .] 


145 

thieves, whom the executioners are 
nailing to the cross. 

“ It is difficult to imagine a subject 
better adapted for a painter to exhibit 
his art of composition than the present; 
at least Rubens has had the skill to 
make it serve, in an eminent degree, 
for that purpose. In the naked figures 
of the Christ and of the executioners 
he had ample room to show his know¬ 
ledge of the anatomy of the human 
body in different characters. There are 
likewise women of different ages, which 
is always considered as a necessary part 
of every composition in order to pro¬ 
duce variety; there are, besides, chil¬ 
dren and horsemen ; and, to have the 
whole range of variety, he has even 
added a dog, which he has introduced 
in an animated attitude, with his mouth 
open, as if panting; admirably well 
painted. His animals are always to be 
admired ; the horses here are perfect in 
their kind, of a noble character, ani¬ 
mated to the highest degree. Rubens, 
conscious of his powers in painting- 
horses, introduced them in his pictures 
as often as he could. This part of the 
work, where the horses are represented, 
is by far the best in regard to colouring; 
it has a freshness which the other two 
pictures want; but those appear to have 
suffered by the sun. 

“ The central picture, as well as that 
of the group of women, does not, for 
whatever reason, stand so high for co¬ 
lour as every other excellence. There 
is a dryness in the tint; a yellow-ochrey 
colour predominates over the whole ; it 
has too much the appearance of a yel¬ 
low chalk drawing. I mean only to 
compare Rubens with himself: they 
might be thought excellent, even in 
this respect, were they the work of 
almost any other painter. The flesh, as 
well as the rest of the picture, seems to 
want grey tints, which is not a general 
defect of Rubens ; on the contrary, his 
mezzotints are often too grey. 

“ The blue drapery about the middle 
of the figure at the bottom of the cross, 
and the grey colour of some armour, 
are nearly all the cold colours in the 
picture, which are certainly not enough 
to qualify so large a space of warm 
colours. The principal mass of light is 

H 


ROUTE 22.—ANTWERP. CATHEDRAL. 





146 


ROUTE 22. —ANTWERP. 

on the Christ’s body; but, in order to 
enlarge it and improve its shape, a 
strong light comes on the shoulder of 
the figure with a bald head: the form 
of this shoulder is somewhat defective ; 
it appears too round. 

“ Upon the whole, this picture must 
he considered as one of Rubens’s prin¬ 
cipal works.”— R. It was executed in 
1610, and retouched in 1627 by the 
painter, who added the Newfoundland 
dog at that time. 

Over the high altar of the choir hangs a 
third of Rubens’s most famous pictures, 
* The Assumption of the Virgin. “ She is 
surrounded by a choir of angels; below 
are the apostles and a great number of 
figures. This picture has not so rich 
an appearance in regard to colour as 
many other pictures of Rubens; pro¬ 
ceeding, I imagine, from there being 
too much blue in the sky: however, 
the lower part of the picture has not 
that defect. It is said to have been 
painted in 16 days” — R. —for 1600 
florins; Rubens’s usual terms being at 
the rate of 100 florins a-day. 

The Resurrection of our Saviour , by 
Rubens (in a small chapel S. of the 
choir), painted by him to adorn the 
tomb of his friend Moretus the printer. 
“ An admirable picture, about half the 
size of life; Christ coming out of the 
sepulchre in great splendour, the sol¬ 
diers terrified, and tumbling one over 
the other; the Christ is finely drawn, 
and of a rich colour. The St. John 
the Baptist on the door is likewise in 
his best manner, only his left leg is 
something too large. On the other door 
is St. Barbara (? St. Catherine); the 
figure without character, and the co¬ 
louring without brilliancy. The pre¬ 
dominant colour in her dress is purple, 
which has a heavy effect.”— R. Some 
pictures by Otto Vennius , hang in the 
small chapels. 

The * Stalls in the choir, designed 
by Professor Geerts, of Louvain, and 
executed by Durlet, of exquisite Gothic 
tabernacle work, foliage, &c., inter¬ 
spersed with figures of saints, apostles, 
and scriptural groups, are remarkable 
for their elaborate execution. The 
figures occasionally betray rather a 
pedantic affectation of an archaic style, 


CATHEDRAL. STEEPLE. Sect. II. 

in long, lean forms, and stiff angular 
drapery. 

The Pulpit , carved in wood by Ver¬ 
bruggen, is a singular and tasteless piece 
of workmanship, representing Europe, 
Asia, Africa, and America; while the 
upper part consists of twining shrabs, 
and interlaced branches of trees, with 
various birds — mostly of species un¬ 
known in nature—mere fanciful inven¬ 
tions of the artist, perched upon them. 
Some of the confessionals are also by 
Verbruggen, as well as several tombs 
and statues of marble in the choir; and 
the chapel of the Holy Sacrament con¬ 
tains an altar carved by him. 

In the chapel of St. Antoine is a 
painting by the younger Franck , of our 
Saviour disputing with the Doctors, 
among whom the painter has introduced 
portraits of Luther, Calvin, Erasmus, 
and other reformers. “ There are some 
fine heads in this picture, particularly 
the three men that are looking on one 
book are admirable characters; the 
figures are well drawn and well 
grouped; the Christ is but a poor 
figure.”— R. 

The * Steeple, one of the loftiest in the 
world, 403 English ft. 7 in. high, is of 
such beautiful and delicate Gothic 
workmanship as to have caused the 
Empr. Charles V. to say it deserved 
to be kept in a case; while, from the 
minuteness of the carved work, Napo¬ 
leon compared it to Mechlin lace. It 
was begun by the architect Jan Ame- 
lius 1422, and completed by Appelmans, 
of Cologne, 1518. It is not; however, 
to be regarded as a structure solely of 
stone, but rather as a framework of iron 
bars, with bits of stone strung upon 
them like beads, held together by copper 
bolts, the gaps and interstices being 
filled up with plaster, and the joints 
partly covered with lead. The founda¬ 
tions of the tower descend many feet 
below the ground. It has been care¬ 
fully repaired and restored at great 
cost. According to the original design, 
it was intended to raise both towers to 
the same height. In the tower which 
is completed there is a very extensive 
set of chimes, composed of 45 bells and 
one very large bell, at the baptism of 
which the Empr. Charles V. stood god- 



ROUTE 22. —ANTWERP. CHURCHES. 


147 


Belgium. 

father. It requires 16 men to ring it. 
The view from the upper gallery takes 
in the towers of Bergen-op - Zoom, 
Flushing, Breda, Mechlin, Brussels, and 
Ghent. It commands the course of the 
Schelde, the position of the citadel, 
Antwerp itself, and the surrounding 
fortifications, with the entire theatre of 
the military operations of the French 
and Dutch in 1832 and 1833. 

During the partial bombardment of 
the town from the citadel in 1830, Gen. 
Chasse’s artillerymen knocked off one 
or two small pinnacles of the steeple, 
and several shells fell into the houses 
immediately around the cathedral, and 
are preserved to this day as memorials. 

The tower-keeper (concierge) receives 
75 c. for 1 person, 1 fr. for 2, and 1 fr. 
50 c. for 3 or more. 

Near the foot of the tower is a 
draw-well, covered with an elegant 
Gothic canopy of iron, which deserves 
notice as the work of Quentin Matsys , 
the blacksmith of Antwerp, who, hav¬ 
ing fallen in love with the daughter of 
a painter, changed his profession to ob¬ 
tain her father’s consent to their mar¬ 
riage, and succeeded even better with 
the palette and pencil than he had at 
the forge and hammer, as his great work 
in the Museum here will testify. The 
figure which surmounts the graceful 
canopy of Gothic iron-work is a knight 
in armour, with a glove in his hand, 
probably having reference to the glove- 
market, which was once held on this 
spot. At the side of the W. door of 
the Cathedral is a tablet to his memory, 
with this Latin verse— 

Connubialis Amor (le Mulcebre fecit Apellem. 

“ ’Twas love connubial taught the smith to 
paint.” 

The original tablet has been removed 
to the Museum. 

*St. Jacques (admission tarif 1 fr. 1 
person, 4 persons 3 frs., from 12 to 4 
Avhen there is no service, and the 
sacristan will show the pictures which 
are covered up), even more splen¬ 
did than the cathedral in its internal 
decorations of marbles, painted glass, 
carved wood, and fine monuments. 
The principal families of the town 
had their burial vaults, private chapels, 


and altars in this church. The most 
remarkable is that which belonged 
to the family of Rubens, situated exactly 
behind the high altar. The tomb of the 
great painter is covered by a slab of 
white marble, bearing a long inscrip¬ 
tion, let into the pavement of the chapel. 
In 1793, when every other tomb in the 
church was broken open and pillaged 
by the revolutionary French, this alone 
was spared. The altar-piece in this 
chapel was painted for it by Rubens, 
and is considered one of his best and 
most pleasing works. It is a Holy 
Family , in which he has introduced his 
own portrait as St. George, those of his 
two wives as Martha and Mary Mag¬ 
dalen, his father as St. Jerome, his aged 
grandfather as Time, and his son as an 
Angel; one of the female heads is said 
to be the same as that called the Chapeau 
de Faille. Sir Joshua says of it, “ For 
effect of colour this yields to none of 
Rubens’s works, and the characters have 
more beauty than is common with him. 
To the painter who wishes to become a 
colourist, or learn the art of producing a 
brilliant effect, this picture is as well 
worth studying as any in Antwerp. It 
is as bright as if the sun shone upon it.” 
The white marble statue of the Virgin, 
above the picture, of beautiful work¬ 
manship, executed by Du Quesnoy , was 
brought from Italy b) r Rubens himself. 
To the 1. of this chapel is a very touch¬ 
ing recumbent effigy in marble of a 
young mother, by Geefs. The entrance 
to St. Jacques is in the Longue Rue 
Neuve: the best time for visiting it is 
between 12 and 4^, when there is no 
service; the presence of the koster must 
be secured to unlock the chapel. 

In the S. transept is a very curious 
Raising of the Cross, carved in high 
relief, out of a single stone, by Vervoort. 
In the second chapel on the 1., as you 
enter the nave, is a good portrait (oval), 
by Vandyck , of Cornelius Landschot. 

On the outside of St. Paul , or the 
Dominican Church (entrance in the Rue 
des Soeurs Noires), is an object deserv¬ 
ing notice only as illustrative of the 
Romish religion. It is a representation 
of Calvary—an artificial eminence raised 
I against the walls of the church, covered 
with slag or rock work, and planted 

H 2 



148 


ROUTE 22. —ANTWERP. 


CHURCHES. 


Sect. II. 


with statues of saints, angels, prophets, 
and patriarchs. On the summit is tho 
Crucifixion, and at the bottom is a grotto, 
imitating the Holy Sepulchre in Jerusa- 
lem. On entering it, the body of Christ 
is seen encircled with vestments of silk 
and muslin; while to the face of the 
rock, near the entrance, are attached 
boards carved and painted to represent 
the glowing flames of Purgatory, in the 
midst of which appears a number of 
faces, bearing the expression of agony, 
and intended to remind the spectator of 
the suffering of the souls of the wicked 
in that place of torment. 

Within the church, is a singular paint¬ 
ing by Teniers the father, representing 
the Seven Acts of Mercy. There is also 
here an excellent and wonderful picture, 
the Scourging of Christ, by Rubens. 
“ This picture, though admirably 
painted, is disagreeable to look at; the 
black and bloody stripes are marked with 
too much fidelity; and some of the 
figures are awkwardly scourging with 
their left hand.”— R. The Adoration 
of the Shepherds is also attributed to 
him, “ but there is nothing in the pic¬ 
ture by which his manner can be with 
certainty recognised; there are parts 
which were certainly not painted by 
him, particularly the drapery of the 
Virgin.”— R. A Crucifixion, by Jor- 
daens y “much in the manner of Rubens.” 
—Christ bearing the Cross, an early 
picture by Van Dyk. “It is in many 
parts like the works of Rubens, particu¬ 
larly the figure with his back towards 
the spectator, which is well drawn.”— 
R. The wood-work in this church is 
remarkably fine. See the side chapels 
and stalls in the choir. There are 8 or 
10 finely ornamented confessionals. 

St. Andrew's Ch. contains a fine altar 
sculptured by Verbruggen, and one of 
the most beautiful as well as singular 
of the carved *pulpits so common in the 
Netherlands; it represents Andrew and 
Peter called from their boats and their 
nets by our Saviour, and was executed 
by Van Hool , the figures by Van Gheel. 
It is a work of high merit; the figure 
of our Saviour displays a dignity not to 
be expected in this department of art. 
In the 1. transept is a picture of the 
Crucifixion of St. Andrew, by Otto 


VenniuSy Rubens’s master ; and against 
a pillar facing the right transept is a 
portrait of Mary Queen of Scots, at¬ 
tached to a monument erected to the 
memory of two English ladies named 
Curie, who served her as ladies in wait¬ 
ing. One of them received her last 
embrace previous to her execution. 

The Ch. of the Augustins contains an 
altar-piece by * Rubens, representing the 
marriage of St. Catherine, with the 
Virgin and Child surrounded by many 
saints. “ From the size of the picture, 
the great number of figures, and the 
skill with which the whole is conducted, 
it must be considered as one of the most 
considerable works of Rubens.” “ The 
Virgin and Infant Christ are represented 
at one distance, seated on high on a sort 
of pedestal, which has steps ascend¬ 
ing to it: behind the Virgin is St. 
Joseph; on the right is St. Catherine, 
receiving the ring from Christ. St. 
Peter and St. Paul are in the back¬ 
ground; and to the left, on the steps, 
St. John the Baptist, with the Lamb 
and Angels. Below are St. Sebastian, 
St. Augustin, St. Lawrence, Paul the 
Hermit, and St. George in armour 
(Rubens himself). By way of link to 
unite the upper and the lower part of 
the picture, are 4 female saints half¬ 
way up the steps. The subject of this 
picture, if that may be called a subject 
where no story is represented, has no 
means of interesting the spectator: its 
value, therefore, must arise from another 
source—from the excellence of art, from 
the eloquence, as it may be called, of 
the artist. And in this the painter has 
shown the greatest skill by disposing 
of more than 20 figures, without com¬ 
position, and without crowding. Tho 
whole appears as much animated, and 
in motion, as it is possible for a picture 
to be where nothing is doing; and the 
management of the masses of light and 
shade in this picture is equal to the 
skill shown in the disposition of the 
figures. ’ “ I confess 1 was so over¬ 

powered with the brilliancy of this 
picture of Rubens, whilst I was before 
it, and under its fascinating influence, 
that I thought I had never before seen 
so great powers exerted in the art. It 
I was not till I was removed from its 



ROUTE 22. —ANTWERP. MUSEUM. 149 


Belgium. 

influence that I could acknowledge 
any inferiority in Rubens to any other 
painter whatever.”— R. The head of 
St. Catherine is one of the most beau¬ 
tiful Rubens ever painted. 

In the same church is the Ecstacy of 
St. Augustine, by Van Dyk ; it is, how¬ 
ever, by no means a faultless composi¬ 
tion. “This picture is of great fame, 
hut in some measure disappointed my 
expectations ; at least, on just parting 
from the Rubens, the manner appeared 
hard and dry. The colouring is of a 
reddish kind, especially in the shadows, 
without transparency. The colours must 
have suffered some change, and are not 
now as Van Dyk left them. This same 
defect of the red shadows I have ob¬ 
served in many of his pictures. The 
head of an elderly woman, said to be 
the saint’s mother, is finely drawn, and 
is the best part of the picture; and the 
angel sitting on a cloud is the best of 
that group. The boy with the sceptre 
is hard, and has no union with the blue 
sky. This picture has no effect, from 
the want of a lai'ge mass of light. The 
2 angels make 2 small masses of equal 
magnitude.”— R. 

The Martyrdom of St. Appolina, by 
Jordaens. “ There is not much to be 
admired in this picture, except the grey 
horse foreshortened, biting his knee, 
which is indeed admirable. Jordaens’ 
horse was little inferior to those of 
Rubens.”— R. 

The Church of St. Anthony of Padua , 
or of the Capuchins, is only remarkable 
for two paintings contained in it—a Dead 
Christ, by Van Dyk ; a Virgin and Child 
appearing to St. Francis, by Rubens. 
“ The Virgin and Christ are in a wretch¬ 
ed hard manner, and the characters are 
vulgar. There is, indeed, nothing ex¬ 
cellent in this picture but the head of 
St. Francis, and that is exquisite.”— R. 

Church of St. Carlo Borromeo or of the 
Jesuits. The very elegant facade, erro¬ 
neously attributed to Rubens, was de¬ 
signed by a Jesuit, Fr. Aguillon. The 
interior was decorated with many fine 
pictures by Rubens, but it was destroyed 
by lightning, with its contents, 1718. 

The *Museum or Academy of Painting 
occupies the building of the suppressed 


convent of Recollets, partly rebuilt and 
newly arranged for its reception. It is 
open to the public daily on payment of 
1 fr. each person, from 9 to 5 in sum¬ 
mer, 9 to 4 in winter. Admission gratis, 
Sunday and Thursday, 10 to 3. After 
3 o’clock 1 fr. admission. Entrance, 
Rue des Fagots. In the courtyard 
obs. a fine marble statue of Van Dyk, 
by Cuyper. 

This museum contains a great many 
pictures, brought from suppressed con¬ 
vents and churches in the town, where 
they were seen and described by Sir 
Joshua Reynolds. The works of Rubens 
and Van Dyk give the highest celebrity 
to this collection. There are no less 
than 12 or 14 finished works of the 
former, of the highest excellence, and 6 
of Van Dyk. 

Here is appropriately preserved, under 
a glass case, the chair of Rubens, Presi¬ 
dent of the Academy of St. Luke—au 
interesting relic. 

Among the paintings of the older 
masters arc,— Quentin Matsys (b. 1450) 
—The Descent from the Cross, with 2 
wings or shutters, formerly in the ca¬ 
thedral, considered the masterpiece of 
the artist. It displays the science and 
talent which are evinced in the famous 
Misers at Windsor, and, in spite of the 
stiffness of the figures, is worthy of 
minute attention. “ The middle part is 
what the Italians call a Pieta, a dead 
Christ on the knees of the Virgin, ac¬ 
companied by the usual figures. On 
the door on one side is the daughter of 
Herodias bringing in St. John’s head at 
the banquet; on the other St. John 
Evangelist in the caldron of boiling oil. 
In the Pieta the Christ appears as if starv¬ 
ed to death, in which manner it was the 
custom of the painters of that age always 
to represent a dead Christ; but there 
are heads in this picture not exceeded by 
Raffaelle, and indeed not unlike his 
manner of painting portraits—hard and 
minutely finished. The head of Herod, 
and that of a fat man near Christ, are 
excellent. The painter’s own portrait 
is here introduced. In the banquet the 
daughter is rather beautiful, but too 
skinny and lean. She is presenting the 
head to her mother, who appears to he 
cutting it with a knife.” This is one of 





150 


ROUTE 22. —ANTWERP. 


MUSEUM. RUBENS. 


Sect. II. 


the treasures of the gallery, and a 
wonder for the time when it was 
painted. 

Frans Floris (properly de Vriendt),— 
St. Luke at his Easel. The Descent of the 
Fallen Angels ( ), painted 1554, has 

some good parts, hut without masses, 
and dry. On the thigh of one of the 
figures he has painted a fly for the ad- 
miration of the vulgar. ( ) The Nativ¬ 

ity. “ A large composition, and perhaps 
the best of his works. It is well com¬ 
posed, drawn, and coloured. The heads 
are in general finely painted, more espe¬ 
cially St. Joseph and a woman in the 
foreground.” 

The principal works of Rubens are— 
( ) a Pieta, the dead body of Christ 

laid on a stone table, covered with straw, 
mourned over by the Virgin. “ This is 
one of his most careful pictures. The 
characters are of a higher style of beauty 
than usual, particularly the Mary Mag¬ 
dalen, weeping, with her hand clenched. 
The colouring of the Christ and the 
Virgin is of a most beautiful and deli¬ 
cately pearly tint, opposed by the strong 
high colouring of St. Joseph. I have 
said in another place that Rubens does 
not appear to advantage but in large 
works. This picture may be consi¬ 
dered as an exception.”— R. The Vir¬ 
gin holding the infant Jesus, “ who 
stands on a table. The infant appears 
to be attentively looking at something- 
out of the picture. The vacant stare of 
a child is very naturally represented; but 
it is a mean ordinary-looking boy, and 
by no means a proper representation of 
the Son of God. The only picture of 
Christ in which Rubens succeeds is 
when he represents him dead : as a 
child, or as a man engaged in any act, 
there is no divinity; no grace or dig¬ 
nity of character appears.” “ St. John, 
finely coloured, but this character is 
likewise vulgar.” ( ) A Holy Family. 

“Far from being one of Rubens’s best 
pictures; it is scarce worthy to be con¬ 
sidered a pattern for imitation, as its 
merit consists solely in being well 
coloured. And yet this is the picture 
which Rubens painted for the Corpora¬ 
tion of St. Luke, and it was hung up in 
their Hall of Meeting.” At least the 
head of the Virgin is pleasing. ( ) 


Our Saviour- on the Cross, admirable. 

) “ The famous Crucifixion of 

hrist between the two thieves. To 
give animation to this subject, Rubens 
has chosen the point of time when an 
executioner is piercing the side of Christ, 
while another with a bar of iron is 
breaking the limbs of one of the male¬ 
factors, who, in his convulsive agony, 
which his body admirably expresses, has 
torn one of his feet from the tree to 
which it was nailed. The expression in 
the action of this figure is wonderful. 
The attitude of the other is more com¬ 
posed, and he looks at the dying Christ 
with a countenance perfectly expressive 
of his penitence. This figure is like¬ 
wise admirable. The Virgin, St. John, 
and Mary the wife of Cleophas, are 
standing by with great expression of 
grief and resignation, whilst the Mag¬ 
dalen, who is at the feet of Christ, and 
may be supposed to have been kissing 
his*feet, looks at the horseman with the 
spear with a countenance of great hor¬ 
ror ; as the expression carries with it no 
grimace or contortion of the features, 
the beauty is not destroyed. This is by 
far the most beautiful profile I ever saw 
of Rubens, or, I think, of any other 
painter; the excellence of its colouring 
is beyond expression. To say that she 
may be supposed to have been kissing 
Christ’s feet may be thought too refined 
a criticism; but Rubens certainly in¬ 
tended to convey that idea, as appears 
by the disposition of her hands, for they 
are stretched out towards the execu¬ 
tioner, and one of them is before and 
the other behind the Cross, which gives 
an idea of her hands having been round 
it; and it must be remembered that she 
is generally represented kissing the feet 
of Christ—it is her place and employ¬ 
ment in those subjects. The good Cen¬ 
turion ought not to be forgotten, who is 
leaning forward, one hand on the other, 
resting on the mane of his horse, while 
he looks up to Christ with great earnest¬ 
ness.” 

“ The genius of Rubens nowhere ap ¬ 
pears to more advantage than here—it 
is the most carefully finished picture of 
all his works. The whole is conducted 
with the most consummate art. The 
composition is bold and uncommon, with 





ROUTE 22 . —ANTWERP. MUSEUM. VAN DYK. 


151 


Belgium. 

circumstances which no other painter 
had ever before thought of, such as the 
breaking of the limbs and the expression 
of the Magdalen, to which we may add 
the disposition of the three crosses, which 
are placed perspectively in an uncommon 
picturesque manner: the nearest bears 
the thief whose limbs are breaking; 
the next, the Christ, whose figure is 
straighter than ordinary, as a contrast 
to the others; and the furthermost, the 
penitent thief. This produces a most 
picturesque effect, but it is what few 
but such a daring genius as Rubens 
would have attempted. It is here, and 
in such compositions, we properly see 
Rubens, and not in little pictures of 
Madonnas and Bambinos. 

“ I have dwelt longer on this picture 
than any other, as it appears to me 
to deserve extraordinary attention. It 
is certainly one of the first pictures in 
the world, for composition, colouring, 
and what was not to be expected from 
Rubens, correctness of drawing.” 

( ) St. Theresa interceding for the 

Souls in Purgatory. “ The Christ is a 
better character, has more beauty and 
grace, than is usual with Rubens : the 
outline remarkably undulating, smooth, 
and flowing. The head of one of the 
women in purgatory is beautiful, in 
Rubens’s way: the whole has great 
harmony of colouring and freedom of 
pencil. It is in his best manner.” ( ) 

The Trinity: Christ lying dead in the 
arms of God the Father. An unimpres¬ 
sive and irreverent representation of the 
Deity, under the figure of an old man. 
The Chi’ist is foreshortened with great 
skill in drawing.” 

( ) The Adoration of the Magi. 

“A large and magnificent composition 
of nearly 20 figures, in Rubens’s best 
manner. Such subjects seem to be 
more peculiarly adapted to Rubens’s 
style and manner; his excellence, his 
superiority, is not seen in small compo¬ 
sitions. One of the kings, who holds a 
cup in his hand, is loaded with drapery. 
His head appears too large, and upon 
the whole he makes but an ungraceful 
figure. The head of the ox is remark¬ 
ably well painted.”— R. 

( ) A small sketch or copy of the 

Descent from the Cross, in the cathedral 


| —good; the variations prove it to be 
by Rubens himself. * 

( ) The Virgin instructed by St. 

Anne. “ This picture is eminently well 
coloured, especially the angels : the 
union of their colour with the sky is 
wonderfully managed. It is remarkable 
that one of the angels has Psyche’s 
wings, which are like those of a butter¬ 
fly. This picture is improperly called 
St. Anne teaching the Virgin to read, 
who is represented about 14 or 15 years 
of age, too old to begin to learn to read. 
(It is more probably a “ Salutation.”) 
The white silk drapery of the Virgin is 
well painted, but not historical. The 
silk is too particularly distinguished, a 
fault of which Rubens is often guilty in 
his female drapery; but by being of the 
same colour as the sky, it has a soft har¬ 
monious effect. The rest of the picture 
is of a mellow tint.” 

( ) The Communion of St. Francis. 

He is accompanied by many of his order, 
and “ appears more like a Lazar than a 
Saint. Though there are good heads in 
this picture, yet the principal figure is 
so disgustful it does not deserve much 
commendation.” It was the design, 
however, of the painter to exhibit the 
Saint in the act of receiving extreme 
unction immediately before his death, 
his body emaciated by disease and ab¬ 
stinence, so that, however disagreeable, 
the picture has at least truth. 

( ) Christ showing his wounds to 

St. Thomas. The expression in the face 
of the Saint is perfect. “ The head of 
the Christ is rather a good character, 
but the body and arms are heavy. It 
has been much damaged. On the in¬ 
side of the 2 folding doors are portraits 
of the Burgomaster Nicholas Rokkox 
and his wife, half-lengths. His is a fine 
portrait; the ear is remarkably well 
painted, and the anatomy of the fore¬ 
head is well understood. Her portrait 
has no merit but that of colom\”— R. 

Van Dyk —( ) A Crucifixion : St. 
Catherine of Sienna (Sir Joshua calls 
her St. Rosaria) at the feet of Christ, 
and St. Dominick. “ A sepulchral 
lamp and a flambeau reversed are here 
introduced to show that Christ is dead. 
Two little angels arc represented on one 
side of the cross, and a larger angel be- 





152 


ROUTE 22. —ANTWERP. MUSEUM. TENIERS. Sect. li. 


low. The 2 little ones look like em¬ 
bryos, and have a bad' effect, and the 
large angel is not painted with equal 
success to many other parts of the pic¬ 
ture. The shadows are too red, and the 
locks of the hair are all painted in a 
hard and heavy manner. For its de¬ 
fects ample amends are made in the 
Christ, which is admirably drawn and 
coloured, and a breadth of light pre¬ 
served over the body with the greatest 
skill, at the same time that all the part s 
are distinctly marked. The form and 
character are of a more elegant kind 
than those we see commonly of Rubens. 
The idea of St. Catherine closing her 
eyes is finely imagined, and gives an 
uncommon and delicate expression to the 
figure. The conduct of the ligh t and sha¬ 
dow of this picture is likewise worth the 
attention of a painter. To preserve the 
principal mass of light, which is made 
by the body of Christ, of a beautiful 
shape, the head is kept in half shadow. 
The under garment of St. Dominick 
and the angel make the second mass, 
and the St. Catherine’s head, handker¬ 
chief, and arm, the third.”— R. 

( ) The dead Christ, supported 

against a rock, at the feet of the Vir¬ 
gin, in an attitude of the deepest agony; 
Mary Magdalen kneeling, kissing the 
Saviour’s hand; St. John in the back¬ 
ground. “ This has been one of the 
most chaste pictures, but the colouring 
is gone. The expression of the Virgin 
is admirable ; it conveys an idea that 
she is petitioning with an earnest agony 
of grief. The Virgin’s drapery and the 
sky being exactly of the same colour has 
a bad effect: the linen is remarkably 
well folded.”— E. 

( ) Same subject, differently treated. 

The Virgin behind; 2 Angels, and 
St. John. “The Virgin’s head is ad¬ 
mirable for drawing and expression. 
The figure of Christ is likewise finely 
drawn, every part carefully determined; 
but the colouring of this figure, and 
indeed of the picture in general, is a 
little too cold : there is likewise some¬ 
thing defective in one of the hands of 
the Virgin.”— R. 

( ) Portraits of Ca3sar Alexander 

Scaglia, one of the Spanish negotiators 


at the Congress of Munster, and ot J ean 
Malderus Bishop of Antwerp. 

Seghers — Marriage of the Virgin; 
“ one of his best pictures.” 

Schut — Martyrdom of St. George. 
“It is well composed and well drawn, 
and is one of his best pictures; but 
the saint has too much of that cha¬ 
racter which painters have fixed for 
Christ. There is a want of bril¬ 
liancy, from its having too much har¬ 
mony : to produce force and strength 
a stronger opposition of colours is re¬ 
quired.”— R. 

Ambrose Franck —“The Martyrdom 
of St. Crispin and Crispinius has some 
good heads, but in a diy manner.”— R. 

Cornelius de Vos —( ) The Family 
Snoek restoring to St. Norbert and 
another Saint the sacramental vessels 
and host belonging to the Church 
of St. Michael. The portraits are 
extremely well painted. “ De Vos 
was particularly excellent in por¬ 
traits.”— R. Of this there can be 
no better proof than is afforded by the 
portrait ( ) of the keeper of the cor¬ 

poration of St. Luke, i. e. the Academy 
of Antwerp, covered with the medals 
and other decorations presented, along 
with the goblets on the table before 
him, to that institution by princes and 
potentates, all of which have long since 
disappeared. It is painted with won¬ 
derful force and truth. 

Rembrandt —Portrait of his Wife (or 
Daughter), from the King of Holland’s 
collection. 

Otto Vcnnius— (Rubens’s master)—4 
pictures: Zaccheus, St. Matthew, and 
the Miracles of St. Nicholas. 

Titian —Pope Alexander VI. intro¬ 
ducing to St. Peter the admiral of his 
fleet against the Turks (a Bishop of 
Paphos) is an interesting picture, in 
the early style of this master. It once 
belonged to the collection of King 
Charles I. 

Teniers — ( ) Boors smoking, a 

brilliant specimen of the artist, from the 
collection of M. van Schamps. J. van 
Eyck , St. Barbara reading, in a land¬ 
scape, unfinished, 1437; Virgin and 
Child, red and opaque in tone, 1439.—E. 
Royer van der Weyden, the Eucharist 
and 6 other Sacraments, a triptych, the 







Belgium, route 22.— Antwerp, docks, citadel, siege. 153 


most precious picture of the Van Ertborn j 
collection.—E. The Annunciation, a 
small pauel. 

A modern work ( ), the Death of 

Rubens, by Van Bree , President of the 
Academy, looks cold, raw, and feeble by 
the side of the pictures enumerated 
above, but it has the good fortune to be 
highly admired by the citizens. 

At No. 10, Rue du Jardin, is a good 
collection of paintings belonging to Mad. 
de Wuyts, shown for 1 fr. admittance, 
which goes to support the poor. 

The Docks and Basins. — Napoleon 
laboured unceasingly to make Antwerp 
the first seaport and naval arsenal of 
the N., to render it the rival of London 
in its commerce, and of Portsmouth as a 
naval establishment. He well knew 
that the trade of London would to a 
certain extent he at the mercy of a hos¬ 
tile fleet stationed so near to the mouth 
of the Thames as Antwerp. The works 
carried into execution by him are 
said to have cost 2,000,000L sterling. 
The English endeavoured to frustrate 
so formidable a design; and the ill- 
fated expedition of 1809 to Walcheren 
was designed for the destruction of 
these works. Napoleon’s estimate of 
their importance may be gathered from 
his own declaration to Las Casas at St. 
Helena: “ The works hitherto erected 
were nothing to what I intended. The 
whole sandy plain which now stretches 
for miles behind 'he Tete de Flandres, 
on the left bank of the river, was to 
have been enclosed by fortifications and 
formed into a vast city. The imperial 
dockyards and basins, the arsenal and 
magazine, were to have been constructed 
there, and those on the right bank were 
to have been abandoned to private mer¬ 
chants. Antwerp was to rise a province 
in itself—France without the frontier of 
the Rhine and Antwerp is nothing.” 
At the conclusion of the peace of Paris, 
in 1814, the dockyards were demolished 
in accordance with one of the articles of 
that treaty. 

The two basins were allowed to re¬ 
main for commercial purposes, and form 
a chief source of prosperity to the city. 
One of the basins is capable of contain¬ 
ing 34, the other 14 ships of the line, i 
The entrance to them is difficult, | 


owing to the strength of the cur¬ 
rent, which sometimes catches the 
stern of a vessel and drives it ashore. 
The docks in winter are of great service 
in protecting vessels, which, if allowed 
to remain in the open river, would be 
Seriously injured by the floating ice. 
They are lined with capacious ware¬ 
houses (l’Entrepot), and between the 
two stands a venerable edifice, originally 
the factory of the Hanseatic League 
(Domus Ilansse Teutonicse, Sacri Ro¬ 
mani Imperii, 1568), called the Ooster- 
lings. Large additional Dock Basins 
(Kattendyk) were opened to the N. of 
the Old, in 1860, below the town, near 
the New Citadel. 

Antwerp has at all times been the 
great stronghold of Belgium; in the 
16th centy. it was the refuge of the 
Netherlander, who resisted the yoke 
of Spain for 13 months under the 
leadership of Marnix de St. Aldegonde. 

The Old Citadel (dn Sad), remarkable 
for the siege which it endured in 1832, 
was originally erected by the engineer 
Pacciotti for the Duke of Alva, to keep 
in awe the citizens, but was pulled down 
by them 1577. after the expulsion of the 
Spaniards; high and low, ladies, and 
beggars, and magistrates assisting in the 
work to the number of 10,000. The 
Spaniards, however, soon restored it, 
and it was long regarded as a model 
of a fortress, especially after General 
Carnot had strengthened greatly its 
works and exhausted all his science 
and skill as an engineer upon it. It 
withstood, under his command, a block¬ 
ade of 4 months in 1814, and was at 
length yielded up to the British under 
General Graham. 

The siege of 1832 began Nov. 29 and 
ended Jan. 23, when the Dutch gar¬ 
rison, under General Chasse, sur¬ 
rendered themselves prisoners of war. 
The French force, under the command 
of Marshal Gerard, actually employed 
in the siege, was 55,000. The troops in 
the trenches were commanded by the 
Duke of Orleans, and the chief engineer 
was General Haxo. The Belgians were 
allowed to fire the first gun from 
Fort Montebello. The Dutch garrison 
! amounted to 4500 men, with 145 pieces 
| of ordnance. The French had 223 guns, 

n 3 







154 ROUTE 22. —ANTWERP. HOTEL DE VILLE. BOURSE. Sect. IT. 


The new Fortifications , planned and 
erected by General Brialmont, 1862-65, 
consist of a very strong enceinte, drawn 
in a semicircle from the old Citadel ! 
above the town, outside of the vil- | 
lages Berchem and Bourgerhout, to 
the Scheldt, below the city. A 
large New Citadel , commanding the 
riyer (Citadelle du Nord), has super¬ 
seded the old Forts du Nord and 
Austreweil. The 2 citadels will be 
connected by a new curved line of 
walls. About 2 m. beyond these 
comes an outer circuit of 8 or more 
detached Forts, connected together by 
a military road, at such a distance 
from Antwerp that shells, from an 
enemy outside, will not reach the city. 

Each fort will have 135 guns, and 
behind are sheltered galleries where a 
battery of field artillery can be kept 
under cover without unharnessing the 
horses. The whole enceinte will include 
bomb-proof barracks for 30,000 men. : 
One-half of the enceinte will be de- I 
fended by inundations caused by cut¬ 
ting the dykes. The cost will be 
2,150,000^. 

Antwerp is a sort of Belgian Wool¬ 
wich. In the Arsenal de Construction 
gun-carriages and all artillery ap¬ 
pendages are made, and in the Ecole de 
Pyrotecnic ammunition for ordnance 
and small arms is prepared. 

New Antwerp. —The site of the old 
ramparts and bastions was bought for 
13,000,0% fr. by a French company, 
who have laid out boulevards and 
promenades, and are erecting streets 
and squares; in fact, entire new 
quarters on the ground thus gained, 
especially to the S., where the new 
Qnartier Leopold is rapidly rising. Here 
has been erected a colossal statue of a 
mythical chief of the Belgse. In the 
Faub. Borgerhaut is a Statue of Carnot , 
by De Cuyper. In 1814 Carnot under¬ 
took the defence of Antwerp without 
demolishing the suburbs, which had 
been proposed. 

An equestrian statue has been raised 
to King Leopold in New Antwerp, near 
the Malines Gate, at a cost of 6000^. 

The new Porte de Malines and other 
gateways on the line of the new works, is 
of fine design and suitable architecture. 


The Ch. of St. George , consecrated 
1853, deserves a visit on account of 
the Frescoes by the painters Guffens and 
Sweerts. It is near 

The old Porte de Malines, which is in¬ 
scribed with large letters S. P. Q. A. 
(Senatus Populusque Antverpiae) — a 
poor conceit, but adopted by all the 
Belgian cities in their prosperous days. 
Near this, in the Rue Leopold, is the 
Botannic Garden. 

There is a large Theatre , splendidly 
fitted up, but open only from September 
to May, devoted to French plays. 

Concerts.—Good orchestral and choral 
music may be heard almost every even¬ 
ing at one or other of the musical asso¬ 
ciations here, especially the concerts of 
La Societe d’ Harmonic, in summer in 
their Garden at Berchem; in winter at 
their own rooms. The principal hotel- 
keepers can generally give admissions. 

The Hotel de Ville (1581), in the 
Grande Place, is not equal in splendour 
to those of Ghent, Brussels, or Louvain, 
but is still a handsome edifice, of 
Italian architecture, designed by Corn, 
de Vriendt (Floris), ornamented exter¬ 
nally with the 5 orders, one over the 
other. It contains a painting of the 
Judgment of Solomon, by F. Floris; 
in the Salle des Manages, a richly 
carved chimney-piece, representing the 
Marriage at Cana (? Last Supper); in 
the Salle de Justice, another, an elegant 
work in the style of the Renaissance; 
and the town Library. *Large fresco 
paintings of historic events, connected 
with Antwerp, its sieges, &c., by the late 
renowned painter Baron Leys, in the 
grand Salle de Reception. The artist 
worked for ten years upon them, and 
died, 1869, before they were finished; 
they ought to be seen by all interested 
in modem art. 

The Bourse, built in 1531, was 
burned down 1858. Sir Thomas Gre¬ 
sham, who resided at Antwerp (1550) 
as British Agent, chose it as a model 
for the Royal Exchange in London. 
The inner wall of the cloister and the 
handsome gateways alone remain. A 
New Bourse is being built in the Rue de 
la Bourse, near the H. St. Antoine. The 
English established a connection with 
Antwerp at an early period: they had 






155 


ROUTE 22 . —ANTWERP—HALLS* 


Belgium. 

an Exchange of their own here, which 
still exists, retaining the name Engelschc 
Beurs. Edward III. visited the city in 
1338, and a son borne to him here by 
Queen Philippa was named Lionel of 
Antwerp in consequence. 

See the beautiful Gothic Chapel of 
Jean v. Immerseel, with groined roof 
and walls, painted by Antwerp artists 
of the 15th century, in a private house 
in the Longue Hue Neuve. 

See also some of the Halls of the 
Trade Guilds (chiefly about the Grande 
Place). La Matson des Brass curs, in the 
Grand Bassin, built by Gilbert van 
Schoonbeke, together with the hy¬ 
draulic apparatus for pumping up 
water. The Council Hoorn of the Brew¬ 
ers’ Company is remarkable as one of the 
few which have escaped modern changes. 
It retains its original fireplace and fur¬ 
niture, and is still hung with stamped 
and gilt leather, and lighted by chan¬ 
deliers, all dating from the end of the 
17th cent. A chef-d’oeuvre of Jordaens 
is over the fireplace, which was painted 
for the place in which it now hangs. 

La Matson des Arhaletriers on the 
Grande Place has a glazed front of 7 
stories, rather Tudor in character—date 
1513. 

The Vieilles Boucheries (1503), be¬ 
tween the H. de Ville and St. Paul’s 
church, now a corn warehouse, is a 
Gothic edifice of brick, flanked by 4 
hexagonal turrets. N.B.—The locality 
is not a reputable one. 

The seat of the Inquisition at Antwerp, 
the cause of the revolt of the Nether¬ 
lands from Spain, was in this building, 
attached to the E. side of the Marche 
aux Poissons, near the Steam-boat Quay. 
The Pillory or Stocks may still be seen 
in the courtyard; and the frightful 
dungeons now used as cellars. In 
many of the cells the bars, holts, chains, 
and fetters remain. 

The house in which Rubens resided 
and died was situated in the Hue de 
Rubens, No. 1450, not far from the 
Palais du Hoi. The screen, of rich 
Italian architecture, with the archway 
leading into the garden, was designed 
by Rubens himself. In the garden 
stands the pavilion where he painted, 
and the stone table at which he sat. 


The loyal Duke of Newcastle (the 
horseman), having quitted England in 
disgust after the battle of Marston 
Moor, resided in this house, which he 
rented of Rubens’s widow, and enter¬ 
tained here Charles II. and many re¬ 
fugee cavaliers. 

On the Place de Vendredi the house 
of Plantin and Moretus, the printers, 
remains nearly unaltered, and retains 
their motto on its front, “Lahore et 
Constantiaa collection of pictures 
and sketches, by Rubens, Van Dyk, 
&c.; their presses, types, wood-blocks, 
together with their library, and the 
study of Justus Lepsius. Special per¬ 
mission is required to see this. 

English Service is performed twice 
every Sunday and Holiday, at a church 
in the Hue des Tanneurs, at \ to 11 a.m. 
and 3 p.m. 

Restaurants. — Bertrand, Place dc 
Meir, very good cuisine; at II. St. 
Antoine also is an excellent restaurant. 

The most respectable Club is the 
Societe de la Concorde, corner of the 
Place de Meir. 

Post-Office, Place Verte. 

Max Kornicker a respectable book¬ 
seller 12, Hue des Tanneurs, near the 
Place de Meir. 

British and American (U.S.) Consuls 
reside at Antwerp. 

Not far from the Railway Station is 
the * Zoological Gardens, well laid out 
and well stocked with animals, where a 
traveller may spend a pleasant half-hour 
while waiting for the train. 

Railways (§ 22).— Borgerhaut Ter - 
minus —To M alines, Brussels, Liege, 
and Aix; to Ghent, byTermonde; to 
Rotterdam and Breda; and to Aix-la- 
Chapelle by Hasselt. Omnibuses call 
at the hotels to convey passengers to and 
fro: see Hte. 23);— Terminus beyond the 
Scheldt, at the Tete de Flandres (Hte, 
13), to Ghent. Steam ferry thither from: 
Quai St. Michel. 

Steamers to Rotterdam daily, in 9 or 
lOhrs. (Rte. 13); to London, to Hull,, 
to Hamburg 3 times a week: to Har¬ 
wich twice a week. 

Vigilantes (cabs) stand in the Place 
Verte and Place de Meir: fare 1 fr. 
for a drive (course) within the walls: 
or by hour, 2 frs. (§ 22.) 



Sect. II. 


156 ROUTE 22a. —ANTWERP TO TURN ROUT. 


ROUTE 22a. 

ANTWERP TO TURNHOUT AND THE BEL¬ 
GIAN PAUPER COLONIES, AND ROUND 

TO LOUVAIN. 

A.— Railway from Contich Stat. (Rte. 
23). 55kilom. Trains in 1 hr. 50 min. 

6 kil. Lierre Stat. 

At Lierre (14,600 Inhab., no inn, 
but a pot-house), the noble Ch. of 
*St. Gommaire or Gomer , the perfection 
of Gothic of the 15th cent. (1425-1557), 
contains an exquisite flamboyant rood- 
loft , restored in a creditable manner. 
Observe —The Marriage of the Virgin, a 
tine work of Memling , a gift to the ch. 
from the Archduke Philip of Austria— 
some good painted glass at the E. end 
of the ch., 3 windows were the gift of 
Emperor Maximilian—and the shrine 
of St. Gomer. The W. tower, square 
below and octagon above (d. 1427) has 
lost its spire by lightning. 

8 kil. Nylen Stat. 

6 kil. Bouwel Stat. 

6 kil. Herenthals Stat. (Inn, Ville de 
Lierre). St. Walt rude's Ch. has some 
painted glass and a fine carved altar- 
piece of the Martyrdom of St. Crispin, 
by Raephorst, 1470, and a carved aum¬ 
bry. A town of 4665 Inhab. 

[A Diligence runs hence to Gheel 
{Inn, Armes de Turnhout), a village of 
10,700 Inhab., in the midst of the 
desolate tract of moor and heath called 
the Campine. The peasants here have 
for generations devoted themselves to 
taking charge of lunatics brought hither 
from various parts of Belgium, amount¬ 
ing to 800 or 1000. Some are sent 
hither by their friends—the paupers 
are supported by the government or 
their parish. The mild system of treat¬ 
ing lunacy has long prevailed here, 
and those not deemed dangerous are 
allowed to walk about the streets. 
St. Dympna, the patron saint of lu¬ 
natics, was an Irish princess, a daugh¬ 
ter of a king of Ireland; and she 
is said to have suffered martyrdom, 
decapitated by her own father, from 
whom she had fled in order to devote 
herself to religion and celibacy, in 
company with a Christian priest named 


Gerebemus. The cures wrought upon 
pilgrims to her shrine caused Gheel 
to become famous for the treatment of 
mental diseases. The * Church of St. 
Dympna , contains her altar and silver 
shrine, and several carved reredoses, 
some with paintings (of the school of 
Limburg) inserted, having curious and 
elaborate carving in stone and oak, 
representing the legends of the saint, 
a crucifixion, &c. The altar-piece , 
sin-mounted by the Holy Rood, is in 
the style of some of the retablos of the 
churches in Spain. A tabernacle con¬ 
tains some of her relics. Here is also 
a sculptured monument to John de 
Merode and his lady, 1550, resem¬ 
bling that of Sir F. de Vere in West¬ 
minster Abbey, being supported by 
marble figures at the corners. Around 
the ch. are a number of little cells where 
mad patients used to be exorcised.] 

5 kil. Lichtaert Stat. 

3 kil. Thielen Stat. 

9 kil. Turnhout Stat. {Inn, Porte 
d’Or, clean and not dear). A town of 
15,000 Inhab., once a hunting-seat of 
the Dukes of Brabant. It has a large 
Church and a Palais de Justice , which 
includes part of a castle built in the 
15th centy. by Maria Duchess of 
Gueldres. Leeches are reared here. 


B.—The direct road to Turnhout 
from Antwerp traverses a wide district 
of heath, much of which is unreclaimed, 
but at first it passes many pretty villas; 
the waste begins about 8 m. from Ant¬ 
werp. 

A little way short of Westmael is 
the convent of the monks of La Trappe, 
who have reclaimed an estate of 400 
acres from the barren heath. It is a 
plain building, somewhat like a work- 
house. The brothers, nearly 60 in 
number, observe the strict rule of the 
order, in preserving silence, passing the 
night in prayer, &c. The garden is 
also the burial-ground, and a grave lies 
always open to receive him who is next 
to drop. Cleanliness is little attended 
to. 

Westmael. About 7 m. N.E. of this 
is Wort el, a pauper colony established 
by the Dutch government in 1822, and 
containing 460 Inhab. It stands in the 







15 ? 


Belgium . route 23 . —Mechlin. cathedral. 


midst of a heath. It was placed, at 
its foundation, under the direction of 
Capt. Van den Bosch, brother to the 
General, and the plan of operation was 
similar to that of Frederiksoord. (See 
Rte. 7.) The company at Wortel con¬ 
tracted to maintain 1000 paupers for 
35 florins each per ann.; other paupers 
were afterwards taken. Whether the 
pauper colonists, chiefly idle vagrants 
sent from Brussels, are of an inferior 
class, certain it is that the pauper 
settlements in Belgium are far behind 
the colony of Frederiksoord in prospe¬ 
rity. 


ROUTE 23. 

ANTWERP TO BRUSSELS, BY MECHLIN.— 
RAILWAY. 

44 kilom. = 21 \ Eng. m. Trains in 
25 min. to Mechlin, and in 25 thence to 
Brussels. 

Many country seats and gardens of 
the merchants and citizens of Antwerp 
lie near the railroad. 

2 Berchem Stat. In the oh.-yd. is 
the grave of the great painter, Baron 
Leys, died 1869. 

4 Vieux Dieu (Oude God) Stat. 

5 Contich Junct. Stat.—The village 
(3500 Inhab.) lies to the W.; not far 
from it appears the Gothic castle of Ter 
Elst. A railway diverges from this 
by Lierre (fine Ch. of St. Gamer) and 
Ilerenthals to Turnhout (Rte. 22 a). 

5 Duffel Stat.—The town is on the 1. 
The river Neethe is crossed. 

8 Mechlin Junct. Stat., where the, 
trains stop for a few min., is the point of 
departure from which 4 principal lines of 
railway ramify through Belgium. These 
are Ligne da Nord, which leads to Ant¬ 
werp ; Ligne de I’Est, to Louvain, Liege, 
Venders; Ligne de I’Ouest , to Ghent, 
Bruges, and Ostend; Ligne du Midi , to 
Brussels, and thence to Mons, Char¬ 
leroi, and Namur, or to Lille. There 
is at times great confusion and fre¬ 
quently delay here, from the meetings 
of the trains. Travellers should take 
care they are not put into the wrong 
train, and that they are not run over in 
crossing the numerous lines of rails. 


Good buffet at the stat. 

Mechlin is equidistant from Antwerp, 
Brussels, and Louvain. A handsome 
street, ltue d’Egmont, leads from the 
rly. stat. to the Grande Place and 
Cathedral (15 min. walk). 

Mechlin (Fr., Malines; Flem., Me¬ 
chelen; Germ., Mecheln). Inns : La 
Grande Cigogne, second rate, but toler¬ 
able ; H. fie Brabant, in the Grande Place; 
Mechlin is situated on the Dyle, and has 
34,500 Inhab. It is one of the most 
picturesque Flemish cities, from the 
quaint architecture of its houses and the 
multitude of signs over the “shops, but 
presents now a deserted aspect. Mechlin 
is the see of the Belgian Primate, and 
the head-quarters of the Roman Ch., 
abounding in convents, seminaries, &c. 

The * Cathedral, dedicated to St. ltum- 
bold (the choir finished in 1451, the 
nave in 1437), deserves to be visited. 
The interior is large and 85 ft. long. It 
has a carved pulpit, representing the 
Conversion of St. Paul, with the fallen 
saint and his fallen horse below; and an 
altar-piece in the S. transept, by Van- 
dgck , of the Crucifixion, painted after 
his return from Italy. “ This, perhaps, 
is the most capital of all his works, in 
respect to the variety and extensiveness 
of the design, and the judicious disposi¬ 
tion of the whole. In the efforts which 
the thieves make to disengage them¬ 
selves from the cross he has success¬ 
fully encountered the difficulty of the 
art, and the expression of grief and re¬ 
signation in the Virgin is admirable. 
Upon the whole, this maybe considered 
as one of the first pictures in the world, 
and gives the highest idea of Vandyck’s 
powers: it shows that he had truly a 
genius for history painting, if it had 
not been taken off by portraits. The 
colouring of this picture is certainly not 
of the brightest kind, but it seems as 
well to correspond with the subject as 
if it had the freshness of Rubens. St. 
John is a mean character, the only weak 
part in the picture, unless we add an¬ 
other circumstance, though but a minute 
one—the hair of the Magdalen, at the 
foot of Christ, is too silky, and in¬ 
deed looks more like silk drapery than 
hair.”— R. The picture was carefully 
denned in 1848, and seems to have been 








158 


ROUTE 23.' —MECHLIN. CHURCHES* 


Sect. II. 


little retouched. The modern carved 
stalls are very beautiful. The window 
in the N. transept is filled with a repre¬ 
sentation of the promulgation of the 
dogma of the Immaculate Conception. 
In the side chapels, around the choir, 
are 25 paintings by Michel Coexie , or at 
least of his time, representing events 
in St. Rumbold’s life—very curious. 
The organ possesses a rich and full 
body of tone. 

The massive though unfinished 
Tower , begun 1452, is 348 ft. high, that 
is, only 18 ft. lower than the cross of 
St. Paul’s : had the steeple been com¬ 
pleted, it -frould have been 640 ft. high. 
The face of the clock is 48 ft. in dia¬ 
meter. The carillons are veiy musical. 

This church was built with the money 
obtained by the sale of indulgences to 
pilgrims, who flocked hither in 1452, to 
celebrate a Jubilee proclaimed by the 
Pope throughout Christendom, on the 
occasion of the war against the Turks. 

In the Grande Place , in which the 
cathedral stands, are several ancient 
buildings, Les Halles , with a turret, 
date 1340. In the midst is a statue of 
Margaret of Austria, daughter of the 
Emp. Maximilian, aunt and governess 
of Charles V., and Gouvernante of the 
Low Countries (d. 1530)—it is by a 
sculptor of Mechlin — surrounded by 
elegant iron-work. The ff. de Ville 
(called Beyard) is a building of the 
15th centy. 

In the Church of St. John is a very 
famous * altar-piece with wings by Ru- 
bens, composed of the following pieces: 
The Adoration of the Magi. “ A large 
and rich composition; but there is a 
want of force in the Virgin and Child 
—they appear of a more shadowy sub¬ 
stance than the rest of the picture, 
which has his usual solidity and rich¬ 
ness. One of the Kings holds an in¬ 
cense vase. This circumstance is men¬ 
tioned to distinguish this picture from 
the many others which ltubens has 
painted of this subject. On the inside 
of one of the doors is the Decollation of 
St. John the Baptist; on the other, St. 
John the Evangelist in the caldron of 
boiling oil. The figures which are put¬ 
ting him into the caldron want energy, 
which is not a common defect of Ru¬ 


bens. The character of the head of the 
Saint is vulgar, which, indeed, in him 
is not an uncommon defect. The whole 
is of a mellow and rich colouring. On 
the outside of those doors are John bap¬ 
tizing Christ, and St. John the Evan¬ 
gelist in the Isle of Patmos writing the 
Apocalypse. Both of these are in his 
best manner. The Eagle of St. John is 
remarkably well painted. The Baptism 
is much damaged.”— P. 

Sir Joshua mentions 8 small paintings 
in panels under these, all by Rubens, 
but showing little merit, except facility 
of hand. The subjects were the Cruci¬ 
fixion, the Nativity, and Resurrection. 
The first alone remains; the others, it 
is believed, were not returned with 
the rest of the pictures from France. 
“ Rubens was paid for these 8 pic¬ 
tures 1800 florins of Brabant, about 
180/. English, as appears by the receipt 
in his own handwriting, still preserved 
in the sacristy, and the whole was be¬ 
gun and finished in 18 days.”— R. 

The elegant Gothic Ch. of Notre 
Dame , passed on the 1. hand in coming 
from the railway, contains behind the 
high altar the Miraculous Draught of 
Fishes, by Rubens, painted for the Guild 
of Fishmongers, and considered one of 
his most masterly works. His excel¬ 
lence of colour and rivalry of the Vene¬ 
tian school are nowhere more conspicu¬ 
ous than in this picture. It ought not 
to be passed over unseen. On the 
wings or shutters are painted — The 
Tribute Money taken from the mouth of 
the fish; Tobias and the Fish; Peter, 
Andrew. Beneath these were three 
small pictures which also disappeared 
w r ith the French. Rubens painted these 
8 subjects in 10 days for 1000 florins. 

Near the Louvain gate is a^ modern 
Ch. in the style of the Jesuits. 

Mechlin was the seat of the Imperial 
Chamber, founded by Charles the Bold, 
1473, which continued to maintain the 
reputation of a most upright court of 
justice for many centuries. Charles V. 
and Philip II. presided over it in person. 

Mechlin is the birthplace of Ernest 
Count Mansfeld, the leader in the 30 
years’ war; of Michel Coexie (1497), 
the scholar and imitator of Raphael; of 
Dodonseus the botanist (d. 1585); and 







vyniioqiy '/hfjunpf uyo/'ruopuoj 




Z’MVJi 

k^ y7 ^fC 


ynre^o-g 


ill 3 A 9 o i 


S13SSAV& 





































































ROUTE 23. —VILVORDE* BRUSSELS. 


159 


Belgium. 

of Frank Hals, the admirable portrait [ 
painter (1584). 

The manufacture of Lace , which re¬ 
ceives its name from Mechlin, is much 
fallen oft 1 . Only 8 houses are now em¬ 
ployed in making it. It is a coarser 
and stouter variety than that made at 
Brussels. 

A group of 3 very picturesque old 
houses in the Kraan Straat are a fit 
subject for the pencil. 

There has been an English Church at 
Mechlin since 1845, with a resident 
chaplain. 

The Railroad to Brussels, 16 m. 
(24 trains daily in 25 min.), on leaving 
Mechlin, crosses the canal leading to 

Louvain. 

[After crossing the Sonne it passes 1. 
the village of Elewyt, between which 
and the railway is the Chateau of Steen , 
the favourite residence of Rubens, who 
was seigneur of the place, having pur¬ 
chased the manor in 1635 for 93,000 fls. 
It still exists in part, with its pointed 
roofs and stout buttresses. A bridge 
of 3 arches, built by Rubens across 
the moat, leads to an arched gatehouse, 
within which was the painter’s studio. 
The chapel is still pointed out. This 
casteel is introduced into several of his 
paintings. Teniers’s house at Perck, 3 m. 
from Vilvorde and 14 m. from Steen, is a 
decayed, moated farmhouse, called Dry 
Toren, from its 3 towers, now swept 
away. A half-timbered, gabled gate¬ 
house remains, but is falling fast to 
pieces. In the room over the gate he 
painted the people and country around 
him, still little altered. Teniers is 
buried in the ch. of Perck, but the flat 
stone slab which marked his grave is 
gone. A Crucifixion, painted by him, 
within a wreath of flowers, is preserved 
here.] 

Obs. the magnificent hop-gardens in 
this part of Belgium, the plant growing 
to a size gigantic as compared with it in 
England. 

11 Vilvorde Stat. (2700 Inhab.), a 
dull town, has an interesting Ch. con¬ 
taining fine carved stalls in its choir. 
Tindal, translator of the Bible into 
English, suffered martyrdom here as a 


heretic, in 1536, being strangled at the 
stake, and then burnt outside the town, 
near the Penitentiary , a huge edifice, 
with loop-hole windows, on the 1., 
v r hich stands on the site of his prison. 

On quitting Vilvorde many pretty 
country-seats are seen on the banks of 
the broad canal which goes to Brussels, 
and outside of Vilvorde the vast Peni¬ 
tentiary mentioned above. 

Schaerbeck Janet, Stat, Direct line 
to Louvain from Brussels, diverges 

rt. 3 m. from Brussels, the Palace 
of Laeken , residence of the King of 
Belgium, appears at some distance on 
the rt. It is handsomely furnished, but 
there is nothing to distinguish it from 
other kingly residences, of which a tra¬ 
veller may see enough in a continental 
j ourney. It was originally built for the 
Austrian governor of the Netherlands 
before the French revolution, and was 
afterwards inhabited by Napoleon, who 
here planned his disastrous Russian 
campaign. The gardens and park are 
very beautiful. Madame Malibran is 
buried in the Cemetery of Laeken. A 
statue of her in marble, by Geefs , has 
been set up in a sort of temple, as a 
monument, by her husband, who caused 
her body to be removed hither from 
Manchester; rt. See the tower of the 
Gothic Church erected as a memorial 
to Louise Marie, Queen of the Belgians 
(died 1850). The ch. is not yet finished. 
Opposite to it is the monument to King 
Leopold. The Allee Verte, a long 
avenue of trees, extends nearly all the 
way to Brussels from Laeken. 

Brussels Stat. du Nord , near the Bo¬ 
tanic Garden, opposite the Longue Rue 
Neuve. 

A Girdle Rly. connects this with the 
Luxembourg Stat. and Quartier Leo¬ 
pold. A fine boulevard is about to be 
opened, connecting the 2 stats, in a 
direct line. 

10 Brussels (Fr., Bruxelles). - 
Inns: H. de Bellevue* kept by 
Dremel ; H. de Flandre; H. de 
1’Europe. These 3 in the Place 
Royale.— # H. de France, Rue Royale, 
corner of the Mont du Parc; H. de la 



160 


ROUTE 23. —BRUSSELS. BUILDINGS. PALACES. 


Regence and H. Windsor, both Rue de 
la Regence; H. Mengelle, Rue Roy ale, 
near the Place Royale, very good; 
and many others. In the old town, H. 
de Suede, much esteemed by foreigners, 
and more moderate than the hotels in 
R. Royale; *H. de Saxe, nearest to the 
rly. stat., good, but not moderate; H. 
de 1’Uni vers. 

The expense of living at one of the 
principal hotels ought not to exceed 12 
fr. a day, including a bottle of Bordeaux 
wine. The price of table-d’hote in the 
best hotels varies from 5 to 3 fr. 

2nd class Inns : H. de Braband; H. des 
Brasseurs, Grande Place, where the ex¬ 
penses ought not to exceed 8 fr. daily. 

Boarding-house .—Miss Popkins, 47, 
Avenue de la Toison d’Or, in the Quar- 
tier Louise, is strongly recommended. 

Restaurants. Dubost, 23, Rue de la 
Putterie; Aux Provenceaux, R. Royale; 
Mengelle, 40, R. Royale ; Allard, R. 
Posse aux Loups, near the great theatre. 
The 3-fr. dinner at the Rochers de Can- 
cale , Rue Fosse aux Loups, is com¬ 
mendable. 

Cafes. Mille Colonnes, and Cafe 
Suisse, Place de la Monnaie; Cafe 
Royal, Place Royale; Cafe du Grand 
Balcon, comer of Passage St. Hubert. 

Brussels, the capital of the kingdom 
of Belgium, and seat of government and 
of the Chambers, on the small river 
Senne, has 190,000 Inhab., or with its 
suburbs 328,000. It is divided into 
the upper and lower towns, the upper 
being the newest as well as the most 
fashionable and healthy quarter, from 
its elevated site. It contains the King’s 
palace, the Chambers, and the chief 
hotels. The Rue de la Loi is occu¬ 
pied by public offices. The lower town 
abounds in fine old picturesque build¬ 
ings, the residences in former times 
of the Brabant noblesse, • now occu¬ 
pied by merchants and tradespeople. 
The Grande Place, with its splendid 
Hotel de Ville, in this quarter, is be¬ 
yond doubt unrivalled as a specimen of 
Gothic splendour in civic edifices. The 
new Quartier Leopold , containing some 
fine houses, is the fashionable part of 
the town, outside the Boulevard du 
Rdgent. Many of its handsome houses 
are occupied by English. Here are 


Sect. It. 

the Zoological Garden, beyond the 
Luxembourg Rly. Stat., and the Musee 
Wiertz. French is the prevailing lan¬ 
guage, though many among the lower 
orders, and the majority of the popula¬ 
tion in the lower town, speak only 
Flemish. The number of English re¬ 
sident here has caused our language to 
be generally understood. 

Those who are acquainted with the 
French metropolis will find here many 
similarities, which give Brussels the 
character of Paris on a small scale. 
Besides the language, which is the same, 
and a certain fondness for French 
manners and habits perceptible in so¬ 
ciety here, the town of Brussels has its 
Opera, in imitation of that of Paris; 
its cafes, in the manner of those of the 
Palais Royal; a palace-garden, which 
may be compared with that of the 
Tuileries; and Boulevards around the 
town, inferior only in extent to those of 
its great original. 

The * Park is a considerable enclosure 
in the higher town, forming the interior 
of a large square, laid out with avenues 
of trees, shady walks, and verdant turf, 
and ornamented with statues; serving 
as a promenade to the inhabitants, who 
are indebted to the Empress Maria 
Theresa for it. The most fashionable 
evening walk is on the 1. of the en¬ 
trance to the Place Royale. Within 
the area of the park stood the Old Cha¬ 
teau of the Dukes of Brabant, in the 
hall of which took place the abdication 
of Charles V., 1555. No trace of it 
remains. The park was the scene of 
the principal combat during the re¬ 
volution of 1830. At the S. comer, 
close to a grotto, is a small well, bear¬ 
ing on the kerb - stone a Latin in¬ 
scription, stating that Peter the Great,, 
King of Muscovia, tumbled into it in 
April, 1717, owing to his having drunk 
too much wine. 

Among the buildings which form 
the sides of this square, and overlook 
the Park, are— 

The King's Palace; it has nothing- 
very remarkable without or within. 
Laeken is the usual royal residence. 

Near to it is the Palais Ducal , given 
by the city to the Duke of Brabant, but 
never occupied by him. It was erected 






ROUTE 23. —BRUSSELS. MUSEUM. 161 


Belgium. 

at the cost of the city of Brussels, and 
presented to Wm. II., King of Holland, 
when Prince of Orange. The building 
was finished and inhabited 1829, and 
the owner was expelled by the revo¬ 
lution of 1830. It serves as a Museum 
of modern Belgian Art, the ground- 
fioor being occupied with works of 
Sculpture, and the upper stoiy with 
Paintings of the 18th and 19th cent. 
Obs. among the cattle-pieces of Ver- 
boekhoven, The Sheep caught in a 
Storm; Italian Landscape, with Ox, 
Sheep, and Shepherd; Omegang's Land¬ 
scape ; A. Stevens —Lady with Lace 
and Muslin; Navez — Agar ; Atha- 
liah recognising Joash; Baron Leys — 
The Establishment of Christian Wor¬ 
ship at Antwerp after the Revolution— 
Madou , a genre painter, The Village 
Fete, reminding one of Wilkie. 

In Sculpture —The Lion in Love, by 
William Geefs; also works by Jean and 
Joseph Geefs, Simonis, and Frequin. The 
Palais Ducalc is open to the public 
daily, 10 to 4. 

The Palais de la Nation, built by Maria 
Theresa for the meetings of the Council 
of Brabant, is situated Rue de la Loi, 
at the end of the Park, facing the Royal 
Palace, devoted to the 2 Representa¬ 
tive Chambers, the Senate, and Cham¬ 
ber of Deputies, which form the Par¬ 
liament of Belgium. In the Hall of 
the Senate hangs the last portrait of 
Leopold I., by De Keyser, and The 
Rise of the Belgic Kingdom, an alle¬ 
gory, by Gallait; a series of portraits 
by Gallait; A Roman Scene, by Ver- 
boekhoven; and The First Journey of 
the Locomotive, by Madou; Henri IV. 
of France playing with his Children, 
by If. Dillens, sen. ; The Battle of 
Lepanto, by Ernest Schingeneijer; the 
Battle of Nieuport, by Odevaert; and 
the Death of Mary of Burgundy while 
Hunting, Mathien. Ladies, as well as 
gentlemen, are admitted during the 
debates. The entrance is behind, in 
the Rue de l’Orangerie, during the 
sittings of the Chambers; at other 
times by the principal entrance, Rue 
de la Loi. 

In a recess of Rue Royale, opposite 
one of the Park gates, is a marble 
statue of the French General Belliard , 


by William Geefs , raised by subscrip¬ 
tion, to commemorate his services to 
Belgium as envoy from France, in 
1831-32. 

In one of the last houses in the Rue 
de la Blanchisserie, now pulled down, 
which overlooked the old ramparts, near 
the Jardin Botanique, the Duchess of 
Richmond gave the grand ball to the 
Duke of Wellington and his officer's on 
the eve of Waterloo (June 15, 1815), 
which the Duke would not allow to be 
put off, although he had previously 
heard of the advance of Napoleon. 

In the Place du Congres, between 
the Botanic Gardens and the Rue de 
la Loi, rises the Column of the Consti¬ 
tution, surmounted by a bronze statue 
of King Leopold I. It was raised, 1859, 
as a memorial of the National Con¬ 
gress, which after the Revolution of 
1830, established the Constitution and 
called Leopold I. to the throne. At the 
four comers of the base are female 
figures personifying Liberty of the 
Press, Education, Association, and Re¬ 
ligion. 

The Museum , in the Old Palace, for¬ 
merly the residence of the Spanish and 
Austrian Governors of the Low Coun¬ 
tries, and before that of the Dukes of 
Brabant, and now called Palais des 
Beaux Arts, contains—1st. The Picture 
Gallery. Here are 7 works reputed to 
be by Rubens, mostly inferior to those 
at Antwerp, and probably executed by 
his pupils. They are, however, not 
deficient in many traces of his tran¬ 
scendent power. Among them are, The 
Martyrdom of St. Lieven—a Coronation 
of the Virgin—Adoration of the Magi— 
Christ falling under the Cross—a Dead 
Christ at the Sepulchre—Christ armed 
with Thunder to destroy the World; an 
extravagant and unchristian allegory. 
“ Christ, with Jupiter’s thunder and 
lightning in his hand, denouncing ven¬ 
geance on a wicked world, represented 
by a globe lying on the ground with 
the serpent twined round it: this globe 
St. Francis appears to be covering and 
defending with his mantle. The Virgin 
is holding Christ’s hand, and showing 
her breasts; implying, as I suppose, 
the right she has to intercede and have 
an interest with him whom she suckled. 






162 


ROUTE 23. —BRUSSELS. MUSEUM. LIBRARY. 


Sect. II. 


The Christ, which is ill drawn, in an 
attitude affectedly contrasted, is the 
most ungracious figure that can be 
imagined: the best part of the picture ' 
is the head of St. Francis.”— R. The 
Assumption of the Virgin:—“ The prin¬ 
cipal figure, the Virgin, is the worst 
in the composition, both in regard to 
the character of the countenance, the 
drawing of the figure, and even its 
colour; for she is dressed, not in what 
is the fixed dress of the Virgin, blue 
and red, but entirely in a colour be¬ 
tween blue and red, heightened with 
white; and this coming on a white 
glory gives a deadness to that part of 
the picture. The Apostles and the two 
women are in Rubens’s best manner. 
The angels are beautifully coloured, 
and unite with the sky in perfect har¬ 
mony ; the masses of light and shade 
are conducted with the greatest judg¬ 
ment; and, excepting the upper part, 
where the Virgin is, it is one of Rubens’s 
rich pictures.”— R. Van Dyk, Portrait 
of Dellafaille. Philippe de Champagne 
(native of Brussels), a room full of his 
paintings, including, perhaps, his best— 
The Presentation in the Temple — 
includes portraits of Paschal, and other 
members of the Society of Port Royal. 
Franz Floris, The Last Judgment. 
De Grayer , St. Peter Fishing, and 
the Miraculous Draught of Fishes. 
P. Neefs, Interiors of Antwerp Ca¬ 
thedral. Gerard Douw, His own por¬ 
trait. Dierick Stuerbout , The Ordeal 
of Hot Iron. The wife of the Em¬ 
peror Otho convicted of the same 
crime as Potiphar’s wife, on the 
testimony of the widow of the Count, 
who had been beheaded on the strength 
of the empress’s false accusation, 2 
pictures. **Van Eyck, Adam and Eve, 
wings of the picture in St. Bavon, Ghent, 
of the Adoration of the Lamb. Bernard 
van Orley, The body of Christ, mourned 
over by his friends and by the women, 
one of his best works. “ It has 
great truth to nature, but is hard, 
as the whole picture is in a dry 
Gothic style.”— R. Among the latest 
accessions to the gallery, D. Teniers' 
Kermes, or Village Wake, with figures 
of the painter and his 2 drughters. In 
the bombardment of Brussels on the 


20th of August, 1695, by the French 
under Marshal Villeroy, there were de¬ 
stroyed, in less than 48 hours, several 
thousand houses and 14 churches, the 
latter adorned with some of the finest 
works of Rubens, Vandyk, and other 
eminent painters, which perished in 
the flames. 

3rd. The Museum of Natural History, 
on the lower story of the same build¬ 
ing, is probably the most complete in 
Belgium. The zoological department 
includes many specimens brought from 
the Dutch East Indian colonies. That 
of mineralogy is enriched by an in¬ 
teresting collection of Russian minerals. 
The specimens of chromate of lead and 
malachite are fine. There is a very com¬ 
plete series of the volcanic products of 
Vesuvius, and of the fossils of Maes- 
tricht. 

The Palais d’ Industrie, built 1829, 
opposite the Ch. of St. Jacques Cauden- 
berg, 1., in the corner, is appropriated 
to periodical exhibitions of the pro¬ 
ducts of national arts and manufac¬ 
tures. It contains a collection of mo¬ 
dels of engines, sluice-gates, machinery, 
&c. Open daily. 

The Royal Library , of 234,000 printed 
vols. and 20,000 MSS., in the same 
building, includes the well - known 
Bibliotlieque de Bourgogne, founded in 
the 15th cent, by Philippe le Bon, Duke 
of Burgundy; many are richly adorned 
with miniature paintings of the greatest 
beauty. Obs. The Chronicle of Hain- 
ault, in 37 fol. vols., illuminated by 
Memling (?), deserves particular notice; 
the Missal of Matthias Corvinus, King 
of Hungary, the Psalter of Louis de 
Male, and Charles the Bold’s MS. copy 
of the Cyropaedia. This collection has 
been twice carried off to Paris by the 
French as the spoils of war. The 
library of printed books (3000 incuna¬ 
bula) was formed in 1837 by the union 
of the libraries of the state and of the 
town of Brussels with that of Van 
Hultem, which was purchased for 
315,000 fr. Here is also a collection 
of 60,000 prints, rich in old Flemish 
and German artists. It includes a 
splendid collection of Niellos, some 
unique; a woodcut, with the date 
1418; coins, medals, &c. The library 






163 


Belgium . route 23. —Brussels, church oe st. gudule. 


is open every day except Sun. from 10 
to 3. Nothing can exceed the comfort 
of the reading-room. 

This building serves likewise as a 
College , and public lectures, instituted 
by government, arc given daily, at par¬ 
ticular seasons, in various branches of 
science, literature, and art, to which all 
persons are admitted gratis. In the 
courtyard is preserved the inscription 
from the monument of Lipsius. 

The * Hotel de Ville, in the Grande 
Place, is the grandest of those munici¬ 
pal palaces which are found in almost 
every city of the Netherlands, and no¬ 
where else of the same splendour. The 
part S.E. of the tower was begun 1401. 
The beautiful spire, of Gothic open 
work, 364 ft. high, was built by Jan 
van Ruysbroek. It originally stood at 
the end of the building : the wing to the 
N.W. of the tower was added in 1444. 
It differs in length and otherwise mate¬ 
rially from the older wing, but not so 
as to destroy the effect of the whole. 
The gilt copper figure of St. Michael 
on the top, which serves as a weather¬ 
cock, and turns with the wind, is 17 ft. 
high. The abdication of Charles V. 
(1555) took place in the Old Ducal 
Palace, w r hich stood on the site of the 
Place Royale, burnt down in 1733, and 
not, as is often said, in this town-hall. 
The Salle des Marriages , v T here the civil 
contract of marriage is executed before 
the mayor, is hung round with Belgian 
tapestries of the 15th centy. and gobelins 
of the 17th. 

The Grande place , in front of it, is 
lined with picturesque old houses, most 
of which were the halls of various Cor¬ 
porations and Guilds—brewers, archers, 
mariners, &c.; and was often the scene 
of splendid tournaments and bloody 
executions. Here the Counts Egmont 
and Horn were beheaded, by order of 
the cruel Alva, in 1568. They passed 
the night preceding their deaths in the 
semi-Gothic house opposite, called the 
Broodhuis, or Maison du Roi (built 
1525), in the small chamber at the 
corner on the 2nd story. Alva looked 
on while the execution was going for¬ 
ward, from a window opposite. 

The spot on which the scaffold stood 
is now occupied by a grand monument 


of the noble pair — colossal bronze 
statues of the 2 counts, Egmont and 
Horn, by Fraiken, 1864. 

The * Collegiate Ch. of Ste. Gudule , the 
finest in Brussels, is a handsome Gothic 
edifice, in which chapters of the order 
of the Golden Fleece were held by 
Philip the Good in 1435, and by 
Charles Y. in 1516. The existing choir 
and transepts were finished in 1273, 
the nave in the 14th cent., and the 
towers in 1518. The outside was well 
restored in 1843. The proper dedica¬ 
tion is to the “ Saints Michel et Gu¬ 
dule,” but, as in many similar cases, 
the female saint has eclipsed the arch¬ 
angel. It is remarkable for the beauti¬ 
ful * painted glass in its windows, especi¬ 
ally those by Roger van der Weyde in 
the great N. chapel of the St. Sacre- 
ment de Miracle, including portraits 
of sovereigns and princes of the 16th 
cent., by whom they were presented: 
2 are dated 1546, and 2 1547. The N. 
and S. windows of the transept are of 
1557, the W. window 1528. Within 
the choir are cenotaphs, erected in 1610 
to John II., Duke of Brabant (1512), 
and Margaret his wife, Duchess of 
York; and one of the Archduke John 
(1596). A tablet of white marble covers 
the entrance to the vault of the royal 
family of Austria. In the chapel of the 
Virgin, S. aisle, is a statue, by .Geefs, 
of a Count Merode, a hero or martyr 
of the revolution of 1830. He is re¬ 
presented in marble, wearing a blouse, 
the _ costume in which he was shot, 
wounded, and holding a pistol! The 
statues of the 12 Apostles placed against 
the pillars in the nave are by Quellin 
and Duquesnoy. The carved * pulpit 
(called Chaire de la Verite) is an extra¬ 
ordinary rather than artistic work of Ver¬ 
bruggen. It represents Adam and Eve 
driven out of Paradise by the angel, 
who appears on one side of the globe 
wielding the flaming sword, while 
Death glides round with his dart from 
the opposite side. The pulpit itself 
is in the hollow of the globe, which 
is supported on the tree of knowledge 
of good and evil, and the tree of life, 
teeming with fruit, and with various 
animals perched on their branches. 
Above the canopy stands the Virgin 






164 


ROUTE 23. —BRUSSELS. 

holding the infant Saviour, whom she 
is assisting to thrust the extremity 
of the cross into the serpent’s head. 
It was executed for the church of the 
Jesuits at Louvain : on the suppression 
of the order Maria Theresa gave it in 
1776 to this church. 

In the chapel, called St. Sacrement 
des Miracles, are deposited the Miracu¬ 
lous Wafers, said to have been stolen 
from the altar at the instigation of a 
sacrilegious Jew, and subjected to in¬ 
sults by himself and his brethren assem¬ 
bled in their synagogue. To add to 
the sacrilege, the day chosen for this 
outrage was Good Friday. When the 
scoffers proceeded so far as to stick their 
knives into the wafers, jets of blood 
burst forth from the wounds, and by a 
second miracle they were struck sense¬ 
less. They were then denounced by 
one of the pretended spectators, who 
had been converted to Christianity, and 
were seized and put to death by the 
most cruel torments, having their flesh 
torn off by hot irons before they were 
burnt at the stake. This took place 
about the end of the 14th cent., and it 
proves that the Jews at Brussels must 
then have been so numerous and wealthy 
as to have been worth plundering. The 
miracle is one of many similar tales in¬ 
vented by those who took advantage of 
the superstition of the age, and the 
general hatred of the race of Israel, to 
incite the populace to deeds of cruelty, 
which enabled them to enrich them¬ 
selves with the confiscated goods of the 
unbelievers. This triumph of the faith, 
as it is called, is celebrated once a year, 
on the Sunday following the 15th of 
July, in the enlightened city of Brussels, 
by a solemn procession of the clergy, 
and by the exhibition of the identical 
miraculous wafers. A little book con¬ 
taining an authorised version of the story 
may be purchased at the church! A beau¬ 
tiful modem carved wood altar has been 
set up in the chapel. It cost 1000/. 
There is a good deal of mediocre modern 
glass, gifts of private benefactors, in this 
ch. From 12 to 4 this cli. is closed, 
except on payment of 1 fr. admission. 

The Ch. of Notre Dame de la Chapelle, 
at the head of the Hue Haute, deserves 
visiting for the sake of its Romanesque 


CHURCHES. PRISON, ETC. Sect. 11. 

Choir (9th cent.). It contains a picture 
by Crayer , Jesus appearing to Mary 
Magdalen ; some good modem frescoes, 
by VanEycken; a singular pulpit, repre¬ 
senting Elijah comforted by an Angel, 
under a canopy of palm-trees: the tomb 
of the painter Breughel, and a small 
! paltry tablet to his memory ; besides 
which, on the left of the high altar, 
there is the more pretending monument 
of the family Spinola. 

The Ch. of Notre Dame , Place du 
Petit Sablon (13th cent.), has the finest 
doorway in Brussels, in the best style 
of Gothic, and a carved pulpit. 

In the midst of the Place Royale, in 
front of the ch. of St. Jaques sur Cau- 
denberg, conspicuous for its Corinthian 
portico, which is attended by the Court 
while the King resides in Brussels, is an 
equestrian statue of Godfrey of Bouillon, 
the work of Eug. Simonis. 

In the Palais de Justice, formerly a 
monastery of the Jesuits, a poor build¬ 
ing in Rue de la Paille, leading out of 
the Square du Grand Sablon, are 2 fine 
works of the modem Belgian School, 
—the Abdication of Charles Y. by 
Gallait, and the Signing of the Com¬ 
promise or Request, by de Biefve. 

The Prison des Petits Cannes, near 
the square called Petit Sablon, stands 
on the site of the Hotel de Cuylem- 
bourg, memorable as the place of meet¬ 
ing of the Protestant Confederates in 
the reign of Philip II., who were the 
means of delivering the United Pro¬ 
vinces from the yoke of Spain. On this 
spot (1566) they drew up the famous 
petition to the Vice-queen Margaret of 
Parma, called the “ Request.” At the 
moment when it was presented one of 
the courtiers was overheard to whisper 
in the ear of Margaret, who was rather 
abashed by the sudden appearance of 
the petitioners, “ not to be annoyed by 
such a parcel of beggars” ( queux ). 
The leaders of the confederates, hearing 
of this, and feeling that an epithet given 
to those who came forward in defence 
of their country and liberties, though 
meant as a reproach, became by its ap¬ 
plication a title of honour, determined 
at once to adopt it as their nom de guerre. 
The same evening, when they met at 
supper, some of them appeared on the 






165 


Belgium . route 23. —Brussels. 

balcony of the hotel, with a beggar’s 
wallet at their back and a porringer 
(jattc ) in their hand, out of which they 
drank success to the Gueux! The 
spark thus lighted was soon blown into 
a flame, and this is commonly consi¬ 
dered one of the leading events of that 
revolution which, in a few years, dis¬ 
possessed the House of Spain of the 
dominion of the Low Countries. Alva 
wreaked his blind vengeance on the 
building where the meetings were held, 
by levelling it with the ground. 

The Musee Wiertz , Rue Wiertz, 
near the Zoological Gardens, open 
daily 10 to 4, gratis—the concierge 
lives 75, Rue Wiertz—is occupied 
by the works of an esteemed but 
eccentric artist, named Wiertz, who 
died 1863. The building was erected 
for him by the Belgic Government, to 
whom he bequeathed his pictures. The 
subjects displayed in the great Hall are 
peculiar. The Belgic Lion of Waterloo 
leaving his mound to contend with the 
Black Eagle ; One of the great ones of 
the Earth, Polyphemus, scattering his 
Enemies; The Fight over the body of 
Patroclus ; The Hosts of Hell warring 
against the Powers of Heaven. The 
Beacon of Golgotha is the name given 
to an original design of the Raising of 
the Cross. The Orphans is a touching 
picture, painted by Wiertz on behalf of 
the children of some masons killed by 
the fall of a building. Premature 
Burial, and The Suicide, are efforts of 
great power, but almost too horrible for 
the pencil. The portrait of the artist 
by himself should not be passed un¬ 
noticed. Some of the pictures are 
shown through peep-holes — a rather 
unworthy trick. It is doubtful whether 
ladies should visit this exhibition ; it is 
not fit for children. 

The Palais d’Aremberg, 17, Place du 
Petit Sablon, furnished with great splen¬ 
dour, contains a small but choice gal¬ 
lery chiefly of Dutch and Flemish 
masters: among them an interior by 
de Hooghe; Tobias’ Cure, Rembrandt ; 
Marriage in Cana, Jan Steen; and a 
beautiful Paid Potter; a choice collec¬ 
tion of Etruscan antiquities, and much 
fine old furniture. In the library is an 


PUBLIC BUILDINGS, ETC. 

antique head, asserted to bo that of the 
famous Laocoon, or at least of a statue 
similar to that in the Vatican. This 
Picture Gallery and the Gardens of the 
Prince de Ligne are not readily shown. 

The Studios of Geefs , the sculptor, 
Rue du Palais, and of Verboekhoven , the 
painter, Rue Royale Exterieure, may 
be visited with pleasure. 

The *Porte de Hal , a large Gothic 
gateway now standing alone, was one 
of the city gates and part of the fortifi¬ 
cations, erected 1381; it was Alva’s Bas¬ 
tille during his bloody persecutions of 
the Protestants. It is now used as a 
Museum for a very interesting and 
well-arranged collection of ancient 
armour; the banner’s of the city guilds; 
the carved wood cradle of Charles V., 
a brass font from Tirlemont (1149), 
a roodscreen, 5 altar-pieces of wood, 
carved shrines, ivories, enamels, glass, 
and other antiquities. The bow and 
mantle of red feathers of Montezuma, 
Emp. of Mexico, were brought hither 
by the Emperor Charles V. This 
Museum is open daily 10 to 3, a small 
gratuity to the concierge is rrsual. In 
front of this building criminals are 
guillotined. 

The * Zoological Gardens , just beyond 
the Luxemburg Rly. Stat., Quartier 
Leopold, well deserve a visit, especially 
during summer evenings when out¬ 
door concerts are given, and they are 
resorted to by crowds of respectable 
people— admission , 1 fr. They contain 
a good restaurant, and one of the 
finest aquariums in Europe, erected 
at great expense, forming a series 
of grottoes. Walk through the Gar¬ 
dens, and see the Flemish Farm. 

The University , Rue des Sols, was 
originally Cardinal Grandvella’s Palace, 
but has been almost entirely rebuilt. 
In front is a statue of Verhueghen, the 
founder. 

The square called Place des Martyrs 
(Martelaers Plaets) contains a large 
monument erected over the grave of 
more than 300 of the “ braves Beiges ” 
who were killed in the last revolution. 
Sept. 1830. It consists of a marble 
statue of Liberty on a pedestal, with a 
kneeling Genius in each of the 4 cor¬ 
ners, by Geefs, Below and around it runs 




Sect. II. 


166 ROUTE 23. —BRUSSELS. PUBLIC BUILDINGS, ETC. 


a sort of subterranean gallery or cata¬ 
comb, in which the slain are interred. 

Brussels is the birthplace of Yesalius 
the anatomist, to whom a statue in 
bronze has been erected in the Place 
des Barricades; of Van Helmont, the 
chemist; of Margaret of Austria, Gou- 
vernante of the Low Countries, daughter 
of the Empr. Maximilian; of the painters 
Bernard van Orley, Philip de Cham¬ 
pagne, and van der Meulen; of the 
sculptor Duquesnoy. 

The English Church Services on Sun¬ 
days. —The Chapelle Roy ale, Rue du 
Musee, at 9 a.m. and 2| p.m. ; 
— the Eglise Evangelique on the 
Boulevard de PObservatoire, 12*45 and 
3*30 p.m.; —Chapelle Evangelique, Rue 
Belliard, Quartier Leopold, 9 a.m. and 

3 p.m. ;—the Ch. of St.-, Rue des 

Drapiers, a handsome edifice of Ant¬ 
werp brick: the foundation was laid 
by the Bp. of Oxford, 1864, but its 
progress is arrested for want of funds. 

The Theatre (Opera), in the Place de 
la Monnaie, the performances are first- 
rate, and the edifice itself large and 
handsome. Open every evening but 
Sat., closed June 1 to Sept. 1. Theatre 
du Cirque , on the Boulevard d’Anvers ; 
Flemish plays. Theatre St. Hubert; 
Gallerie St. Hubert, good, but ill-venti¬ 
lated. 

Theatre Moliere , a small and elegant 
house, where vaudevilles are well per¬ 
formed, in Quartier Leopold. 

Theatre da Parc , in which high 
comedy is performed every evening from 
Sept, to end of May. 

A valet de place expects 4 or 5 fr. per 
diem here and elsewhere in Belgium. 

Post Office, 82, Rue de la Montagne, not 
far from St e . Gudule. Poste restante 
open 5^ a.m. to 8 p.m. There are letter¬ 
boxes and Telegraph Offices in various 
parts of the town. 

The British Embassy is in Rue du 
Trone, Quartier Leopold. 

Railrgads. —Northern line to Mechlin, 
Antwerp, Ghent, Bruges, Ostend, Liege, 
Aix-la-Chapelle, Cologne. Terminus, 
Station du Nord, at the end of Longue 
Rue Neuve.—Southern line to Namur, 
Mons, Douai, Lille, Paris. Terminus, 
Station du Midi, near the Church of 
N. I), de Bon Secours.—Great Luxem¬ 


burg Railway (Rte. 29) to Namin’, 
Liege, Arlon, Charleroi, and Paris, by 
Ottignies—Terminus, Quartier Leopold. 

Chemin de Fer de Ceinture connects 
Stat. du Nord with Luxemburg Stat. 
Many trains daily. 

Omnibuses run from different parts of 
the town, calling at the chief hotels to 
convey passengers to the railroads. 

Hack Carriages. —By the course or 
drive within the town; no stoppages 
allowed. Cab (Vigilante) ] fr.; Fiacre 
(2 horses) 1 fr. 50 c. By the hour: 
Cab, 1 fr. 50 c.; Fiacre, 2 fr., and 50 c. 
or 75 c. every hour after. The drivers 
expect a small pourboire. At night, 
from 11 p.m. to 6. a.m., increased fares. 

Diligences daily to Louvain, Waterloo. 

Booksellers. —Muquardt, Place Royal; 
Froment, 22, Rue Belliard, Quartier 
Leopold, has a reading-room for Eng¬ 
lish and foreign newspapers, and an 
English circulating library. Emile 
Flatau, 75, Rue Montagne de la Cour, 
speaks English; has a good stock of 
English and foreign works, including 
Guide-books. — N.B. Belgian and 
French editions of English books are 
prohibited at the British Custom-house. 

The best shops are for the most part 
in the Rue Montagne de la Conr and 
Rue de la Madeleine. 

The Gallerie St. Hubert, extending 
from the Marche aux Ilerbes to the 
Rue de l’Eveque, is a handsome arcade, 
or street glazed over, filled with shops, 
and may vie with the Passage d’Or- 
leans, in the Palais Royal, Paris. Here 
are several Cafe's ; also Schuerman’s 
Toyshop (jouets d’enfants). 

The most remarkable manufacture 
at Brussels is that of Lace , celebrated 
all over the world. The peculiarity, in 
addition to the fineness, which distin¬ 
guishes it, is, that the patterns are 
worked separately with the most mi¬ 
croscopicminuteness, and are afterwards 
sewed on. The flax employed in the 
manufacture grows near Hal; the best 
comes from a place called Rebecque. 
The finest sort costs from 300 fr. to 400 
fr. per lb., and is worth its weight in 
gold; everything depends on the tenuity 
of the fibre. ~ yard (English) of the 
finest and most expensive kind of lace 
costs 150 fr.; but a very good sort is 





Belgium, route 23. —Brussels. 

sold for 50 fr., and the prices of some 
are as low as 10 fr. per anne. It is 
said that the persons who spin the 
thread for Brussels lace, and also for 
the French cambric ( batiste ) of St. 
Quentin, are obliged to work in con¬ 
fined dark rooms, into which light is 
admitted only partially by a small aper¬ 
ture ; and that, by being thus compelled 
to pay more constant and minute atten¬ 
tion to their work, they discipline the 
eye, and attain the faculty of spinning the 
flax of that web-like fineness which con¬ 
stitutes the excellence of these 2 fabrics. 
There is no advantage in buying lace 
here; it may be got as cheap in Lon¬ 
don. Kid gloves , however, may gene¬ 
rally be had cheaper. 

The shortest way to England. —London 
may be reached via Tournai, Calais, and 
Dover, in 11 hrs. See Rte. 15. Brus¬ 
sels to Paris, via Hal, Mons, Mau- 
beuge, Hautmont (Rte. 32). Trains 
in 6] hrs. 

The principal Promenades , besides the 
Park, mentioned before, are the Boule¬ 
vards, extending nearly round the 
town; the most fashionable and fre¬ 
quented being those de Waterloo, du 
Regent, and de l’Observatoire, in the 
Quartier Leopold ;—the Botanic Gar¬ 
den , in the Rue Royale, very prettily 
laid out, and is open to the public 
Tucs., Thurs., Sat., from 10 to 3. 

The *Bois de la Cambre is to Brus¬ 
sels what the Bois de Boulogne is to 
Paris; it forms the fringe of the Foret 
de Soignies, and large sums have been 
expended in laying out and embellish¬ 
ing it. A long Avenue, through the 
Quartier Louise, leads to it, and hither 
in summer evenings resort the fashion¬ 
able world of Brussels in gay equi¬ 
page on horse and on foot. In one 
corner a Cricket-ground has been as¬ 
signed to the English. 

La Maison du Tir National , Chaussee 
de Louvain, will have an interest for 
British volunteers. The arrangements 
for shooting under cover, its targets, 
and mode of marking, deserve much 
approval. The marker indicates the 
shots made, not by flags, but by num¬ 
bers on boards; 5 represents a bull’s- 
eye, and the outer rings on the target 
count from 4 to 1. 


PROMENADES. EXCURSIONS. 167 

Excursions .—a. to Laeken. A fiacre 
costs 5 fr. to go and return, provided 
it be not detained more than 2 hrs. 
Laeken is a rly. stat. (see above). 
From the fields near Laeken is the best 
view of Brussels. 

b. The Excursion to Waterloo 12J m. 
from Brussels (see Rte. 24) will" oc¬ 
cupy about 7 or 8 hrs., allowing 3 hrs. 
for surveying the field. You should 
not start later than 9 a.m. A car¬ 
riage and pair costs at least 25 fr., 
with poiu-boire for cocher. The road 
is paved, and is generally hot and 
dusty. Distance to the centre of the 
field 12 m. = 2 hrs.’ drive. N.B.— 
Waterloo village is 2 m. short of the 
field. Stipulate, therefore, with the 
driver^ to take you to Mont St. Jean 
at least; better-still to the Hotel du 
Musee, at the foot of the Mound of the 
Lion. 

The Groenendael Stat. of the Great 
Luxemburg Rly. (Rte. 29) is only 5 m. 
from Waterloo. You may go thither 
in 15 min., by an early train in the 
morning (at 9 A.M,), and return by 
another by 4 in the afternoon, taking 
a rough omnibus to and from the Field, 
1 hr.’s drive through the Forest of 
Soignies. The fare to and fro is 1st 
class 4 frs. 10 c. ; 2nd class , 3 frs. 70 c. 
The high road to Namur (Rte. 24) runs 
through Waterloo, and across the field 
of battle. 

Omnibus daily, except Sunday, direct 
to the Field, from II. de Saxe (office, 
16, Rue Villa Hermosa), starting 9'30. 
It makes rather a short stay—so that 
the visit to the field is hurried. Those 
who would see it thoroughly and 
leisurely must hire a carriage for 
themselves. 

c. About 6 m. from Brussels, a little 
to the 1. of the road to Louvain, is the 
village church of 

Saventhem. It contains an admirable 
copy by Van JDyk , of Rubens’ picture of 
St. Martin dividing his cloak with the 
beggar, now at Windsor, which was re¬ 
stored to the church from the Louvre in 
1817. VanDykis reported to have fallen 
in love with a young girl of Saventhem, 
Anna van Ophen, and there to have 
lost his time and money in pursuit of 
his passion. To show fiis devotion to 




168 


ROUTE 24. —BRUSSELS TO LIEGE. WATERLOO. Sect. II. 


her, and to comply with her request, 
he painted 2 pictures for the parish 
church—one, a Holy Family, in which 
he introduced portraits of his mistress 
and her parents; the other, this copy 
of St. Martin. The villagers have 
twice risen up to prevent the removal 
of this cherished work of art; first by 
a Dutch picture-dealer to whom it had 
been clandestinely sold by the priest, 
and again by the French. 

cl. About 8 m. from Brussels is 

Tervueren ( Inns: Le Kenard and 
l’Empereur). Here there is a summer 
Palace of William II. King of Holland. 
It was the gift of the nation to him 
when Prince of Orange, in gratitude 
for his bravery at Waterloo. It is now 
occupied by the Duke of Brabant. Its 
extent is not great, and there are no 
paintings of note in it, but it is very 
elegantly fitted up, with gardens in the 
Italian style around it. The Church 
contains some tombs of the Dukes of 
Brabant. 

e. To the ruined abbey of Villers-la- 
Ville (see Rte. 33), taking Luxemburg 
Rly. to Villers Stat. Return by 4 p.m. 


ROUTE 24. 

BRUSSELS TO LIEGE, BY WATERLOO AND 
NAMUR.—DESCENT OF TIIE MEUSE, 
NAMUR TO MAESTRICIIT. 

To Liege 16 posts = 78 Eng. m. 

The Great Luxemburg Railway 
(Rte. 29) passes within 5 m. of Water¬ 
loo at Groenendael Stat. Omnibuses 
thence in 1 hr. to Mt. St. Jean. (See 
end of Rte. 23.) 

The quickest way to Liege is by the 
Railroad through Louvain (Rte. 26). 

Omnibus daily to Waterloo. See p. 
167. 


Near the village of Ixelles a good 
view of Brussels and of the country far 
and wide is obtained, on which account 
it is a crowded place of resort with the 
citizens upon Sundays. 

About 2 m. from Brussels the road 
enters or skirts the Forest of Soigne , or 
Soignies , now much curtailed and partly 
converted into cornfields. Byron, by a 
poetical licence, has identified it with 
the ancient Forest of Ardennes. The 
march of the British troops through it, 
on their way to the battle, is described 
by him in these beautiful lines 

“ Ardennes waves above them her gTeen leaves, 
Dewy with nature’s tear-drops, as they pass. 
Grieving, if aught inanimate e’er grieves. 

Over the unreturning brave,—alas! 

Ere evening to be trodden like the grass 
Which now beneath them, but above shall 
grow 

In its next verdure, when this fiery mass 
Of living valour, rolling on the foe, 

And burning with high hope, shall moulder 
cold and low.” 

The forest is about 9 m. long and 
7^ broad. 

2 Waterloo.— Inn : H. de l’Ar- 
genteuil. This village, on the outskirts 
of the forest, about 10 m. from Brussels, 
was the head-quarters of the English 
army on the days before and following 
the battle to which it has given its 
name (June 17 and 19, 1815). The 
Duke’s quarters were in a house op¬ 
posite the church. Here, after 16 hrs. 
in the saddle, he dismounted from 
his faithful steed Copenhagen (long 
afterwards a pensioner in the paddocks 
of Stratfieldsaye), and the spirited ani¬ 
mal, conscious of the termination of 
his labours, is stated to have kicked out 
in a manner which had nearly proved 
fatal to his rider. 

The moment a traveller comes in 
sight of Waterloo he will be assailed 
by guides and relic-venders, claiming 
the honour of serving him in the capa¬ 
city of guide. The only mode of ap¬ 
peasing the clamours, and rescuing him¬ 
self from the annoyance, is to fix upon 
one or other, informing him at the same 
time what will be his remuneration. 
3 or 4 francs will be enough for his 
services over the whole field; but if this 
be not settled beforehand, he will not 






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ROUTE 24. -WATERLOO. 


160 


Belgium. 

hesitate to demand at least double. 
English travellers seeking a guide gene¬ 
rally find a veteran soldier and fellow 
countryman on the field, or at the 
Waterloo Museum , formed hy the late 
Serjt. Cotton opposite the Hotel du 
Musee, at the Mound of the Lion, 
which contains some really interesting 
objects. The Belgian peasant guides 
bribe the coachmen to recommend 
them, and unless the stranger encum¬ 
bers himself with some sort of guide he 
will hardly traverse the field in peace. 

The little Church and churchyard of 
Waterloo are crowded with memorials 
of English officers: they contain nearly 
30 tablets and monuments to those 
who fell. 

“ Many a wounded Briton there was laid. 

With sucli poor help as time mii’ht then allow 
From the fresh carnage of the field convey'd ; 
And they whom human succours could not save 
Here in its precincts found a hasty grave. 

And here on marble tablets set on high, 

In English lines by foreign workmen trac'd, 
Are names familiar to an English eye ; 

Their brethren here the fit memorials plac’d. 
Whose unadorn’d inscriptions brietly tell 
Their gallant comrades' rank, and where they 
fell.” Southey. 

Among the curiosities of Waterloo, 
to the examination of which the most 
strenuous persuasion is used to invite 
the passing stranger, is the house of M. 
Paris , stated to be that in which Wel¬ 
lington passed the nights before and 
after the battle. Here also is the grave 
of the late Marquis of Anglesey’s leg, 
which was cut off in the house, and here 
the boot belonging to it is preserved! 
The owner of the house to whom this 
relic has fallen finds it a most lucrative 
source of revenue, and will, in spite of 
the absurdity of the thing, probably 
bequeath it to his children as a valuable 
property. He has interred the leg 
most decorously within a coffin, under 
a weeping willow, and has honoured it 
with a monument and an epitaph. 

Waterloo is now nearly joined to 
Mont St. Jean , a long straggling village 
(Hotel des Colonnes, a decent little Inn), 
thougli once almost a mile from it, and 
lying on the edge of the field of battle. 

Here the road divides: the branch on 
the rt. leads to Nivelles; the other, 
continuing straight on, is the high road 
to Genappe and Namur. 

[n. g.] 


Travellers ought not to leave their 
carriage at Waterloo, or even at Mont 
St. Jean, as it is still a mile short of 
the centre of the field, and this mile 
will considerably increase the long walk 
which they must at any rate take in 
order to see the ground to advantage. 
It is more prudent to drive on to the 
H. du Musee , a clean and well kept Inn — 
English hostess. 1^ m. 

Leaving the village of Mont St. Jean, 
the road reaches an open country, almost 
entirely without trees; it ascends a 
gentle rise, and passes the large farm¬ 
house with offices called Ferme do Mont 
St. Jean, which during the battle was 
filled with wounded British, and served 
as a sort of hospital. 

On arriving at the end of this ascent, 
the traveller finds himself on the brow 
of a hill or ridge extending on the rt. 
and 1. of the road, with a gentle hol¬ 
low or shallow valley before him, and 
another ascent and nearly correspond¬ 
ing ridge beyond it. Along the ridge 
on which he stands the British army 
was posted, while the position of the 
French was along the opposite heights. 

The Mound surmounted by the Belgic 
Lion , by far the most conspicuous object 
in the field of Waterloo, marks the spot 
which may be considered the centre of 
the conflict. Travellers should ascend 
the mound for a general survey. 

The field had been examined by the 
Duke of Wellington in the previous 
year. In a ‘ Memorandum on the de¬ 
fence of the frontier of the Netherlands ,’ 
addressed to Lord Bathurst, 22nd Sept. 
1814, he says, “About Nivelle, and 
between that and Binch, there are many 
advantageous positions for an army, 
and the entrance to the foret de Soignies 
by the high road which leads to Brussels 
from Binche, Charleroi, and Namur, 
would, if worked upon, afford others.” 
—Despatches , xii. 129. Though not a 
strong position, it was the best between 
Quatre Bras and Brussels available for 
the protection of that capital. 

Fioute for seeing the Field. —Leave 
carnage at Musee Hotel; ascend Mound; 
walk down to main road, between 
Gordon and Hanoverian monuments 

I 





170 


ROUTE 24. —WATERLOO. 


Sect. II. 


to La Haye Sainte and Belle Alliance. 
Those strong on foot, and having plenty 
of time, may continue on to Prussian 
monument, near Planchenoit. The 
main point to reach, however, is 
Hougoumont—allow plenty of time for 
this—after seeing it, walk back to 
your carriage. Starting from Brussels 
at 9 a.m., and allowing time for all this, 
it is scarcely possible to get back before 
7 P.M. 

The road from Brussels to Namur 
intersected the 2 armies, or, so to 
speak, separated the 1. wing of the 
British (under General Picton) and 
rt. wing of the French from the main 
bodies of their respective armies. To 
render the declivity more gradual, the 
road has been cut through the crest of 
the ridge several feet deep, so as to form 
a sort of hollow way. At this point 2 
Monuments have been erected close to 
the roadside ; that on the right, a 
pillar to the memory of Col. Gordon, 
bearing a most touching epitaph, well 
worth perusal; that on the left, an 
obelisk in honour of the Hanoverian 
officers of the German Legion who 
fell on the spot. 

Hereabouts the high road is traversed 
nearly at right angles by a small 
country cross-road. During the first 
part of the action the Duke of Wel¬ 
lington stood in the angle formed by 
the crossing of these 2 roads, and 
on the rt. of the highway, at a little 
distance from a solitary elm, called 
the Wellington Tree, from an un¬ 
founded report that the Duke had 
placed himself beneath it during the 
action. The Duke knew better than 
to post himself and his staff close to an 
object which must inevitably serve as a 
mark for the enemy to fire at. Upon 
the strength of this story, however, the 
elm, after being mutilated and stripped 
by relic-hunters, was cut down and 
sold, some time after the battle, to an 
Englishman. 

About half-way down in the hollow 
which separated the 2 armies, and in 
which the most bloody combats took 
place, is the Farm of La Haye Sainte 
close to the roadside on the rt. It 
was occupied by the soldiers of the 
German Legion, and gallantly defended 


till their ammunition was exhausted, 
when they were literally cut to pieces : 
the French “ got possession of it about 
2 o’clock, from a circumstance which is 
to be attributed to the neglect of the 
officer commanding on the spot, and 
were never removed from thence till I 
commenced the attack in the evening ; 
but they never advanced further on that 
side.”— Despatches , xii. 610. A terrible 
carnage took place in the house and 
garden, and the building was riddled 
with shot. 

Not far off, on the opposite side of the 
road, a vast accumulation of bodies of 
men, intermixed with horses, were buried 
in one common grave. It was near this 
spot that the brave General Picton was 
killed, and General Sir William Pon- 
sonby wounded. 5 Scotch regiments 
were engaged in this part of the 
fight. 

If we now proceed across the valley 
and up the opposite slope, we reach the 
farm of La Belle Alliance , a solitary 
white house, on the 1. of the road, 
now a poor public-house. It was occu¬ 
pied by the French, whose lines -were 
drawn up close behind it; though 
towards the end of the engagement 
Napoleon in person marshalled his im¬ 
perial guards in front of it for the final 
charge. Napoleon’s place of observa¬ 
tion during a great part of the battle 
was nearly on a line with La Belle 
Alliance, at some distance on the rt. 
of the road. The Prussians have erected 
a cast-iron monument f m. on the 1., 
at the side of the road by which they 
came upon the field, in memory of their 
fellow-countrymen who fell here. Their 
loss on the 18th amounted to nearly 
7000 ; it occurred chiefly in the vicinity 
of Planchenoit, a village on the 1. of 
the road, beyond La Belle Alliance, 
which was stormed and retaken 3 
times. 

It has been erroneously stated that 
Blucher met the Duke after the battle 
at La Belle Alliance; but the fiict is, 
that he did not overtake the Duke till 
he was 2 m. beyond the field, at Maison 
Bouge, or Maison du Boi, on the road 
to Gcnappe, at 10 p.m. Here the Duke 
gave orders for the halt of his troops. 



171 


Belgium. route 24 .- 

In spite of the fatigues of the day, he 
had pursued the French in person 
till long after dark; and when Colonel 
Harvey, who accompanied him, pointed 
out the danger he ran of being fired at by 
stragglers from behind the hedges, he 
exclaimed, “ Let them fire away: the 
victory is gained, and my life is of no 
value now.” 

Gros Caillou , a farm-house in which 
Napoleon slept, was burnt in conse¬ 
quence by the Prussians next day. 

The foregoing enumeration of the 
various localities of the field has been 
made in the order in which a traveller 
would pass them in following the high 
road from Brussels. If he intend to 
turn aside and examine the field more 
minutely, the following description may 
assist him:— 

The Mound of the Belgic Lion is by 
far the best station for surveying the 
field. At its base is the Museum of 
the late Sergt.-Major Cotton, and the 
well-kept Hotel. It is a modem 
tumulus, 200 ft. high, beneath which 
the bones of friends and foes lie heaped 
indiscriminately together. A flight of 
steps leads up to the top. The lion was 
cast by Cockerill of Liege, and is in¬ 
tended to stand on the spot where the 
Prince of Orange was wounded. 

“ The mound and the lion have 
equally been the subject of ill-natured 
censures, but would appear appropriate 
enough, since they serve at once as a 
memorial, a trophy, and a tomb.”— 
Family Tour. 

The present appearance of the field 
differs considerably from what it was at 
the time of the battle, owing to the exca- 
) vation made along the front of the British 
position, to obtain earth for this arti¬ 
ficial mound. The ridge of Mont St. 
Jean has been considerably reduced in 
height; and the spot where the Duke 
of Wellington stood is quite cut away ; 
the ground near being lowered several 
feet by the removal of the earth. 

From the top of the Mound it will 
be perceived that the ground is a per¬ 
fectly open and undulating plain. The 
British force was disposed in 2 lines 
along one of these undulations: the | 


-WATERLOO. 

foremost line occupied the brow of the 
eminence, and was partly protected by 
a hedge , running from Mont St. Jean 
to Ohain, which gave the name to the 
farm of La Haye Sainte; the second 
stood a little way behind, on the re¬ 
verse of the slope, so as to be partly 
sheltered from the enemy’s fire. The 
British were separated by the shallow 
valley above mentioned—varying from 
500 to 800 yards in breadth—from the 
French, who were posted on the oppo¬ 
site ridge. The situation of both armies 
was in many parts within point blank 
range of their opponents’ artillery. 

The position of the British from rt. 
to 1. did not much exceed a mile and 
a half,—“ small theatre for such a tra¬ 
gedy yet on this limited front did its 
commander place and manoeuvre an 
army of 54,000 men, a remarkable in¬ 
stance of concentration of force. It 
was drawn up in a sort of curve, to suit 
the ground along the heights, and the 
rt. wing extended as far as Merbe 
Braine. The rt. flank of the centre 
stood 400 yards behind the house of 
Hougoumont, which was very strongly 
occupied; the 1. of the centre was 
posted at a short distance behind the 
farm-house of La Haye Sainte,-which 
stood nearer the Allied than the French 
position, and was also occupied and for¬ 
tified as well as its small size and the 
time would admit. 

The distance between the 2 farms of 
Hougoumont and La Haye Sainte is 
1300 yards. The French columns could 
not pass between them without being- 
exposed to a flank fire, nor did Napo¬ 
leon think it prudent to leave 2 such 
posts in his rear in the possession of his 
enemy; and his first efforts, previous 
to advancing against the English line, 
were to make himself master of them. 

The British army remained during 
the whole day firm in its position; and, 
formed into squares, received on this 
ridge , in front, and on each side of the 
ground now occupied by the Mound, 
the furious charges of the French 
cavalry, who were on the plateau be - 
tween the 2 high roads nearly f hr 
all firing having ceased on both sides. 
At the time of the appearance of the 
Prussians not a square had been broken 

I 2 










172 


ROUTE 24. —WATERLOO. HOUGOUM0NT. 


Sect. II. 


or shaken; the British had not swerved 
an inch backwards, but were rather in 
advance of their first position. The 
Duke says, writing to Lord Beresford, 
July 2, 1815, “Napoleon did not ma¬ 
noeuvre at all. He just moved for¬ 
ward in the old style in columns, and 
was driven off in the old style. The 
only difference was, that he mixed 
cavalry with his infantry, and sup¬ 
ported both with an enormous quantity 
of artillery. I had the infantry for 
some time in squares, and we had the 
French cavalry walking about as if they 
had been our own. I never saw the 
British infantry behave so well.” 

Far on the 1., in the direction of 
Wavre, are seen the woods through 
which the Prussians first advanced to 
the battle. 

The Chateau of Hougoumont or Gou- 
mont , about 3| m. from Waterloo 
ch., l^m. from Mont St. Jean, and 
f m. from La Haye Sainte, is decid¬ 
edly the most interesting spot in the 
field of Waterloo, not only for its 
importance in the history of the bat¬ 
tle, but because it still exhibits marks 
of the dreadful conflict. It formed, in 
fact, the key of the British position, 
and the possession of it would have 
enabled Napoleon to turn the English 
flank. It was on this account that he 
directed his utmost efforts towards it. 
At least 12,000 men, commanded by his 
brother Jerome, were brought at dif¬ 
ferent times against it, and the fierce 
attacks continued with hardly any in¬ 
termission during the whole of the day. 
It was an old-fashioned Flemish cha¬ 
teau, with walled gardens and farm 
offices attached to it. Had these build¬ 
ings been formed for a fortress to resist 
the kind of assault which they endured, 
they could scarcely have possessed 
greater advantages; being surrounded 
on all sides by strong walls, which the 
Duke himself caused to be further for¬ 
tified by breaking loopholes in them, 
through which the garrison, if it may 
be so called, directed the fire of their 
musketry. But, notwithstanding its 
strength, so furious were the attacks, 
and so disproportion ably great the num¬ 
ber of assailants, that it could not pos¬ 


sibly have held out, but for the bravery 
of the troops by whom it was main¬ 
tained. The wood, orchard, and kitchen- 
garden were several times in the pos¬ 
session of the French, but they never 
succeeded in forcing the walled enclo¬ 
sures which surrounded the house. 
This little citadel, though set on fire by 
the howitzers and almost gutted by the 
flames, was maintained to the last by 
the Coldstream Guards. 

At the beginning of the battle the 
house stood in the centre of a wood; 
but the trees were so mutilated by can¬ 
non-shot during the action, that few 
remain. The old house set on fire by 
French shells has been entirely re¬ 
moved, and a new one occupies its 
place; some of the outhouses, how¬ 
ever, still exhibit a shattered and 
patched-up appearance; and the walls 
of the orchard retain the loopholes 
formed by the English; whilst on the 
outside they present a broken surface' 
crumbling to the touch, from the effect 
of the French musketry so long and 
vainly directed against them. “The Bel¬ 
gian yeoman’s garden wall was the safe¬ 
guard of Europe, whose destinies hung 
on the possession of this house.” In the 
little chapel is shown a crucifix, saved 
(as the peasants say) by miracle from 
the flames, which, after destroying all 
about it, stopped on reaching the foot 
of the cross. 

Though it is not intended to give a 
history of the fight, the following addi¬ 
tional facts will not be inappropriately 
introduced here:—the force which Na¬ 
poleon brought into the field amounted, 
by his own confession, to nearly 75,000 
men: 54,000 men composed the whole 
of the Duke of Wellington’s army ac¬ 
tually engaged; of these only 32,000 
were British or of the German Legion. 
It has been often asserted that the Duke 
of Wellington was taken by surprise at 
Waterloo, and that he first heard the 
news of the advance of the French in a 
ball-room. This is not the fapt: the 
intelligence was brought to the Duke 
on June 15, by the Prince of Orange, 
who found him within 100 yards of 
his quarters in the park at Brussels, 
about 3 o’clock; and by 5 the same 
evening orders had been sent to all the 




173 


ROUTE 24. —WATERLOO TO NAMUR. 


Belgium. 

divisions of the British army to break 
up their cantonments, and move on 
the 1. of Quatre Bras. A proposal was 
made to put off the ball intended to 
he given by the Duchess of Richmond 
that evening at Brussels; but it was 
thought better to let it proceed, and 
thus to keep the inhabitants free from 
immediate alarm : the Duke therefore 
desired his principal officers to be pre¬ 
sent, but to take care to quit the ball¬ 
room as soon after 10 as possible: he 
himself stayed till 12, and set off for the 
army at 6 next morning. On the morn¬ 
ing of the 16th, the Duke, having 
finished the disposition of his forces, 
rode across the country to Bliicher, at 
Ligny, being unwilling to trust to any 
one the important point of concerting 
measures for the co-operation of the 
Prussians. Bliicher then promised to 
support him with 2 divisions of his 
army, in case Napoleon should direct 
his principal attack against the British. 
This fact is important, and not generally 
known. Another common error respect¬ 
ing this battle is, that the British were 
on the point of being defeated when the 
Prussians arrived: this is sufficiently 
refuted by the testimony of the Prussian 
general, Muffling, who expressly says 
that “ the battle could have afforded no 
favourable result to the enemy, even if 
the Prussians had never come up.” 
The Prussian army was expected to join 
the British at 2, but it appears from 
Bliicher’s despatch that it was half-past 
4 before a gun was fired by them, and 
that it was half-past 7 before they were 
in sufficient force to make any impres¬ 
sion on the French rt. At that hour 
Napoleon had exhausted his means of 
attack. He had no force in reserve 
but the 4 battalions of thp Old Guard. 
These gave way on the advance of the 
British line. The story of the Duke’s 
having thrown himself into the middle 
of a square of infantry during the 
charges of the French cavalry is also a 
pure fiction. 

The fertility of the ground on which 
the battle was fought increased greatly 
for several years after it took place. 
Nowhere were richer crops produced in 
the whole of Belgium, and the corn is 
said to have waved thickest, and to 


have been of a darker colour, over those 
spots where the dead were interred, so 
that in spring it was possible to dis¬ 
cover them by this mark alone. 

“ But when I stood’beneath the fresh green 
tree, 

Which living waves where thou didst cease 
to live. 

And saw around me the wide fields revive 
With fruits and fertile promise, and the 
Spring 

Come forth her work of gladness to contrive, 
With all her reckless birds upon the wing, 

I turn’d from all she brought to those she 
could not bring.” Byron. 

“ Was it a soothing or a mournful thought, 
Amid this scene of slaughter as we stood, 
Where armies had with recent fury fought. 
To mark how gentle Nature still pursued 
Her quiet course, as if she took no care 
For what her noblest work had suffer’d 
there?” Southey. 

The stranger arriving at Waterloo is 
commonly set upon by a numerous 
horde of relic-hunters, who bother him 
to buy buttons and bullets. The fur¬ 
rows of the plough during many suc¬ 
ceeding springs laid bare numberless 
melancholy memorials of the fight— 
half-consumed rags, bullets corroded 
and shattered, fragments of accoutre¬ 
ments, bones and skulls; but when the 
real articles failed, the vendors were at 
no loss to invent others ; so that there 
is little fear of the supply being ex¬ 
hausted. Beggars, toe, a most perse¬ 
vering class of tormentors, beset every 
path, in many instances apparently 
without the pretext of poverty. 

In 1705 the Duke of Marlborough 
was within an inch of fighting the 
French nearly on the same ground as 
Wellington. His head-quarters were 
at Frischermont, and the French were 
posted across the Brussels road. He 
was thwarted, however, by the pig¬ 
headed obstinacy or cowardice of the 
Dutch commissioners who accompanied 
his army. 

Waterloo to Namur. 

The part of Belgium through which 
our route lies has been called the 
“Cockpit” of Europe, and has been 
for ages the ground upon which the 
powers of Europe have decided their 
quarrels. Besides the fields of Water¬ 
loo and Quatre Bras, through which the 







174 ROUTE 24. —WATERLOO TO NAMUR. QUATRE BRAS. Sect. II. 


road passes, Wavre (where the Prussian 
rearguard under Tbielman engaged 
Grouchy), Fleurus, Ligny, and the little 
village of Ramillies, where Marlborough 
gained one of his most famous victories 
over the French and Bavarians, lie 
within the province of Brabant, or only 
a short distance off our road. 

1^ Genappe Stat.— Inn: Hotel Marti- 
neau, indifferent, 17 m. from Brussels: 
1800 Inhab. It was on the road, a little 
way out of the town, that the Prus¬ 
sians captured the carriage of Napoleon, 
and nearly took him prisoner in it, on 
the night after the battle. 

[A Railway from Louvain and Wavre 
by Genappe to Nivelles and Manage 
here crosses our road. rt. Nivelles is 
11m. distant [Inn ; Couronne), a town 
of 7844 Inhab. The Ch. of Ste. Ger¬ 
trude, consecrated 1045, is a very 
noble edifice of Romanesque architec¬ 
ture, with double transepts, externally 
unaltered. The interior was destroyed 
about the middle of the 18th cent. It 
possesses the relics of St. Gertrude, 
daughter of Pepin, Maire du Palais, in an 
elaborate shrine in the form of a church, 
with all the most minute Gothic details, 
of metal gilt. It is placed over the 
high altar. Also two pulpits carved by 
Delvaux; one, of wood, represents 
Elijah in the Desert; the other, of 
marble, the Good Samaritan. Under 
the massive W. tower is a fine crypt of 
Romanesque style, much resorted to hy 
pilgrims to St. Gertrude’s shrine, who 
squeeze themselves through between 
one of the pillars and the wall, as a 
cure for illness. This practice arises 
from a legend that St. Gertrude, when 
pursued by a prince, who sought her in 
marriage, escaped from his impor¬ 
tunities through a gap in a wall, in 
order to preserve her vow of perpetual 
virginity. The smaller tower of the 
church contains the chimes: the hours 
are struck by a colossal figure of an 
armed knight known as Jean de Ni¬ 
velles. The cloister adjoining the 
church appears from its style to be of 
the 11th or 12th cent. The chapter con¬ 
sisted of 36 canons and 42 canonesses; 
but the whole community was under 
the rule of the abbess, whose qualifica¬ 
tion for election depended on a descent 


which could show arms with 16 quar- 
terings: the Dukes of Brabant soon 
encroached on their authority and pri¬ 
vileges. 3 

Between Quatre Bras and Nivelles 
is the estate presented by the King of 
the Netherlands to the Duke of Wel¬ 
lington, in gratitude for his great 
services. 

[3 m. E. of Genappe, on the rail from 
Louvain via Ottignies to Charleroi, is 
the extensive Abbey of Villers in ruins. 
(See Rte. 33.) About 1^ m. from 
Genappe is the village of Baisy, where 
Godfrey of Bouillon, the leader of the 
first crusade, was bom, 1129.] 

Nearly 3 m. from Genappe our road 
passes Quatre Bras , so called because 
4 roads, from Brussels, Charleroi, Ni¬ 
velles, and Namur, meet at this spot. 
An ingenious innkeeper of the place 
has discovered a different meaning for 
Quatre Bras, and kindly translates it, for 
the benefit of the English, by the words 
“ Three Legs!” Here was fought that 
“desperate battle”— W., in which 
the brave Duke of Biunswick fell, at 
the head of his devoted black band 
(June 16, 1815). This position was 
highly important to the Duke of Wel¬ 
lington, as being the key of all the roads 
in the neighbourhood. He commanded 
in person during the engagement, 
and repulsed Marshal Ney, enabling 
the British to retire at leisure upon 
Waterloo, a step which had been ren¬ 
dered necessary by Bliicher’s defeat at 
Ligny, in the face of the superior cavalry 
of Napoleon. The Duke was at one mo¬ 
ment surrounded and nearly made pri¬ 
soner in the farm-house which stands 
in the N.E. angle of the 4 roads, by an 
unexpected charge of French cavalry, 
who dispersed 2 regiments of the allies, 
but were in their turn driven back by 
the English infantry, and none of the 
foremost of the pursuers were allowed 
to escape. 

The road which continues to the S. 
leads through Gosselies to Charleroi, 
2f posts from Genappe: that which 
bears to the S.E. leads to 

2 Sombreffe. Here the retreating- 
army of Bliieher, after Ligny, turned 
off by Tilly and Mt. St. Guibert to 
Wavre, entirely eluding the French. 




Belgium. 


ROUTE 24. —NAMUR. 


175 


4 m. S.W. lies Fleur us, and 2 m. further 
Ligny—both scenes of victories gained 
by the French. (See Rte. 33.) 

The road is uninteresting until, after 
crossing a small stream, it reaches the 
height overhanging Namur, which com¬ 
mands a fine view of its rock-built 
citadel and the valley of the Meuse. 

2^ Namur Stat., opposite the Porto 
de Fer, the Rues de Fer and de TAnge, 
lead to the Grande Place and the junc¬ 
tion of Sambre and Meuse ( Inns: H. 
de Hollande; H. de Harscamp, first 
rate; H. Bellevue—all 3 good: none 
have any view.) Namur is the capital 
of the province of Namur, and was 
once a strong fortress, with 25,900 In- 
hab., picturesquely placed at the junc¬ 
tion of the Sambre and Meuse. It was 
capital of the Aduatici. Caesar (B. G. 
2, 29) well describes its situation, and 
its capture by him. Owing to its 
numerous sieges and bombardments, it 
possesses few old buildings, except the 
belfry tower, of the end of 14th cent., 
and it has scarcely any objects of inte¬ 
rest. The traveller, calling to mind 
“ my uncle Toby,” will seek in vain the 
Porte St. Nicholas, at the S.E. angle 
of the ramparts, and “ the advanced 
counterscarp and great sluice or water- 
stop,” where he received his wound. 
Namur was taken by Louis XIY. in 
1692. Racine has written an account 
of the siege, and Boileau celebrated its 
capture in a worthless ode; it was re¬ 
taken by the English under William 
III. from the French, after a siege of 
10 weeks, in 1695. It was in this me¬ 
morable siege that “ my uncle Toby ” 
was supposed to be engaged. 

The Cathedral of St. Aubain, a brick 
and stucco building, with a cupola 
and Corinthian facade, was finished 
in 1772. Behind the high altar is 
an inscribed tablet to Don John of 
Austria, the conqueror at Lepanto, who 
died in the camp at Bouges, a mile from 
Namur, in 1578, not without suspicion of 
poison from the jealousy of his brother 
Philip II. It was raised by his nephew 
Alex. Farnese, Prince of Parma. On the 
rt. of the altar is a monument to Bishop 
Pisani, by a sculptor of Ghent, 1829. 
A pulpit, erected in 1848, from the 


designs of Geerts, of Louvain, deserves 
notice. Beneath the pulpit is a group 
representing the Virgin guarding the 
City of Namur from the Demon of 
Pestilence. 

The most interesting building in 
Namur is St. Loup , a Renaissance Ch., 
built by the Jesuits, 17th cent., and 
highly enriched internally with marble, 
producing a good effect. It has a roof 
elaborately carved in stone by a brother 
of the order. 

In a Museum, established 1857, is a 
large and interesting collection of glass, 
pottery, and objects in bronze, gold, 
bone, &c., found in several Roman and 
Gallo-Roman cemeteries near Namur. 
In the Convent of the Sceurs de Notre 
Dame is a valuable collection of Church 
Plate , &c. ; a reliquary (1220), gilt, 
with niello figures of the Virgin, 
St. Lambert, &c., containing a rib of 
St. Peter ; the Gospel, in a binding of 
silver, with hunting scenes and filigree 
work; a Chalice; a portable Altar-cover, 
with niellos and enamels; a Crucifix of 
Greek work, with 8 medallions; an 
abbot’s staff; several mitres, &c. &c. 
Works of Father Hugo d’Oignies : this 
treasure is not easily seen. 

The situation of Namur is most 
beautiful, and the best view is-from the 
heights occupied by the commanding 
Citadel , rising between the Sambre and 
Meuse. The view can be seen with¬ 
out entering, for which an order of 
admission must be obtained from the 
commandant in the town. Namur and 
Huy are among the number of for¬ 
tresses greatly strengthened after the 
war, under the inspection of the Duke 
of Wellington, and partly at the ex¬ 
pense of Great Britain. They form 
part of the great barrier on the side of 
France; the work of centuries to erect, 
at the cost of vast sums of money, and 
as vast an expenditure of blood. Yet 
Namur has lost its consequence ; since 
the invention of long-range guns, it can 
be commanded from the neighbouring 
hills, and the Meuse could easily be 
passed by an army lower down. 

Namur is the Belgian Sheffield;— 
its cutlery is celebrated. The mines 
of coal, iron, and marble, situated in 
the neighbourhood, give employment 














176 


ROUTE 24. —NAMUR. THE MEUSE. 


Sect. II. 


to an industrious population. The 
crawfish of the Meuse are celebrated, 
and the trout of the Sambre not to be 
despised. 

A dam of masonry is thrown across 
the Sambre at Namur, with the view 
of rendering it navigable. 

Namur has a bridge over the Sambre, 
and 3 (two for the Rlys.) over the Meuse. 
From the rt. bank of the river the view 
of Namur, and its lofty citadel standing 
on a high promontory, at whose foot the 
2 rivers unite, is very picturesque. 2 
towers of the old castle still remain on 
the height above Rue Notre Dame. 

3 m. from Namur is the Eremi- 
tage de la Montagne, cut in the rock 
by Carmelite monks. 

The valley of the Meuse above Na¬ 
mur, towards Dinant (Rte. 30), is even 
more picturesque than below the town. 
Steamer to Dinant daily, but uncertain. 

Railroads to Charleroi (Rtes. 28 and 
30). To Ai'lon, Luxemburg, and Treves 
(Rte. 29). To Dinant (Rte. 30), Me- 
zieres, Reims, Epernay, and Paris; 
to Brussels and the North (Rte. 29); 
to Liege, Maestricht, and Cologne. 

Railroad to Lie'ge, 38§ m. opened 1850. 
Cost about 1,200,000/., chiefly of British 
capital. It is a fine work. Engi¬ 
neer, the late G. Rennie, Esq. It runs 
close to the river nearly the whole 
way, and on the 1. bank. 

Good Buffet at Namur Stat ., outside 
Porte de Fer. 7 trains daily—express, 
in 14 hr.; stopping, in 2 hrs., but much 
of the beauty of the scenery is lost in a 
train, owing to cuttings and tunnels. 

Steamers to Liege —stopped. It may 
be worth while to hire a boat and drop 
down the stream for short distances. 

The banks of the Meuse between Na¬ 
mur and Lidge are hardly surpassed in 
beauty by any river scenery in N. 
Europe: rock, wood, and water have 
done their utmost, yet the scenery is not 
properly mountainous. The Meuse has 
been compared to the Wye; but is even 
more romantic than the English river. 

“What lovelier home could gentle fancy choose ? 
Is this the stream whose cities, heights, and 
plains, 

War’s favourite playground, are with crimson 
stains 

Familiar as the morn with pearly dews? 

The mom, that now, along the silver Meuse, 


Spreading her peaceful ensigns, calls the swains 
To tend their silent boats and ringing wains. 
Or strip the bough whose mellow fruit bestrews 
The ripening corn beneath it. As mine eyes 
Turn from the fortified and threatening hill, 
How sweet the prospect of yon watery glade, 
With its grey rocks clustering in pensive shade, 
That, shaped like old monastic turrets, rise 
From the smooth meadow-ground, serene and 
Stilll ” WORDSWORTH. 

The Meuse affords a pleasing mix¬ 
ture of cultivation and wildness, of ac¬ 
tive industry' and quiet nature, smoking 
steam-engines and naked and abrupt 
cliffs of limestone, ruined castles and 
flourishing villages, with huge many- 
windowed mills and factories, which 
give an agreeable variety to the road. 
The district swarms with population 
all the way to Liege, and the soil is in 
the highest state of culture; the lower 
grounds occupied by the richest corn¬ 
fields and hop-grounds, or the most 
verdant meadows. These, with the 
winding river flowing between them, 
form the features of a most beautiful 
landscape. The numerous quarries in 
the limestone cliff along the river banks 
afford a veiy excellent marble, which 
is cut into blocks, and sent down the 
river to Holland, where it is used for 
flag-stones, and even for finer purposes. 
On the banks are seen the red stains 
of the earth which furnishes alum to 
numerous works; also heaps of iron ore, 
and zinc (calamine). 

rt. Not far from Namur the chateau 
of Brumagne is passed, and (/.) beneath 
some romantic and precipitous cliffs,— 

/. 8j Marche les Dames Stat., the 
mansion of the Due d’Aremberg, close 
to some iron-w r orks. It occupies the 
site of an abbey founded, in 1101, by 
139 noble ladies, whose husbands had 
gone to the crusade along with Godfrey 
of Bouillon. 

/. 2 Nameclie Stat., a pretty village, 
shrouded by orchards. Zinc and lead 
works (Sart Co.). Elegant suspension- 
bridge, and on opposite bank ruined 
Castle of Samson, once the residence of 
Sybille de Lusignan, mother of Bald¬ 
win V., last king of Jerusalem. 

rt. 3 Schlaigneux Stat., for the vil¬ 
lage of Schlayn, on 1. bank. The 
neighbourhood abounds in coal-mines. 
A tunnel. 






Belgium. 

6 Andennes St at., near Seilles, a 
straggling village, with marble quarries 
and limekilns. 

An iron bridge leads across to An- 
denne, on the rt. bank, a manufacturing 
place, having potteries; a paper-mill, 
sending large supplies to England since 
1860; cotton-mill, &c. Clay for to¬ 
bacco-pipes is exported hence to Hol¬ 
land. 6812 Inhab. 

1. 7 Bas Oha Stat., a restored castle. 
The culture of the vine begins here, 
but it produces a poor wine. 

rt. On the heights are the ruins of 
Beaufort Castle, ruined by the Hutois, 
1429. Before reaching liuy Stat., the 
railway is carried through a tunnel, in 
order to avoid a bend of the river: 
some fine scenery is thus shut out of 
view. 

rt. 4 Huy (pronounced We) Station. 
Inn: Aigle d’Or. This town and fortress, 
with 10,800 Inhab., is romantically 
situated on the Meuse, which divides it, 
and is traversed by an ancient stone 
bridge. It was anciently capital of 
the district named Condroz, from the 
Condrusii, to whom Coesar alludes. 
Here the Meuse is joined by the little 
river Hoyoux, the scenery of which, 
for many miles above the junction, is 
very picturesque. Near Huy is the cul¬ 
minating point of the beauties of the 
scenery of the Meuse. The Citadel , 
repaired and strengthened on the most 
approved plans of modern fortification, 
under the direction of skilful English 
engineers, since 1815, commands the 
passage up and down the valley of the 
Meuse. The works are partly excavated 
in the solid rock, and high walls of 
most massive masonry have been added 
to the natural precipices on which it 
stands. Strangers are allowed to see 
the fortifications. 

The Collegiate Ch. of Notre Dame , 
founded by St. Maternus, situated under 
the citadel, is approached on the S. side 
by a detached gateway, surmounted 
with sculptures in relief, from the life 
of the Virgin. The date of the present 
church is 1311-77; the interior is of a 
graceful style of Gothic, 82 ft. high. 
The tower at W., crowned by an open 
spire, is pierced with a fine rose window. 
In the sacristy are 4 remarkable shrines 


177 

—goldsmiths’ work of the 11th and 12th 
centys. 

In one of the suburbs stood the abbey 
of .Neufmoustier (i. e. Novum Monas- 
terium), founded by Peter the Hermit, 
on his return from the first Crusade 
and the capture of Jerusalem, (d. 
1115), who was himself buried in it. 
His remains and monument were re¬ 
moved to Home in 1634: part of the 
cloisters remain; the church is gone. 
The site is in the property of M. Godin, 
the paper manufacturer, who has raised 
a monument over the Hermit’s burial- 
place—a cruciform vault in the present 
garden. Neufmoustier was one of the 
17 convents which existed here, together 
with 14 parish churches, while the town 
was under the dominion of the Prince 
Bishop of Liege, though the total 
population at the time did not exceed 
5000! 

The view looking back on Huy is 
not surpassed in Belgium. The hills be¬ 
low are less lofty and precipitous than 
above Huy. Zinc and calamine works 
of considerable magnitude may be seen 
in full activity near (1.) Ampsin Stat., 
and at other places along the valley, 
particularly on the Liege side of Huj r . 
They are marked by the red stains of 
the refuse along the banks. 

1. Corphalie, an extensive zinc ma¬ 
nufactory ; there are mines of calamine 
near this. A tunnel. 4 Ampsin Stat. 

rt. Chateau de Neufville, in the old 
French style, with 3 turrets. 

3 Amay Stat. 

1. The stately old abbey of Flone, a 
red brick building. Here are zinc and 
lead furnaces of “ the Vieille Montagne 
Company.” 

Hermalle Stat. On rt. the Chateau 
of the Baron Protesta, an elegant 
building of red brick, with spires. 
Close to the rly. are Alum-works. 

3 Engis Stat. At Engis in a cave 
in which a human skull and other 
bones have been found, along with a 
tooth of a mammoth, much relied on 
by geologists to prove the antiquity of 
man. Is it not probable that man was 
the instrument for extirpating the 
mammoth ? There are other bone-caves 
at Enghehoul and Chokier. 

i 3 


EOUTE 24.— HUY. ENGIS. 










178 


ROUTE 24. —SERAING. LIEGE. 


Near this the Chateau d'Aigremont, 
a white building of 16th cent., comes 
into sight. 

1 . On a high precipitous rock, be¬ 
tween Engis and Flemalle, rises the 
Chateau of Cholder, an old building, 
with a modem front, of Italian archi¬ 
tecture, surmounted by a red tower. 
It is the cradle of the family 
Surlet de Choquier, one of whom 
was Regent of Belgium before the 
election of King Leopold. It was once 
taken and burnt by the Iluitois. The 
scarped rock is skirted by the railway. 
Hereabouts the Meuse passes from the 
limestone into the coal formation—into 
a region of steam-engines, smoking 
chimneys, and furnaces. At 

L 4 Fldmalle Stat. the Rly. divides. 
The branch that joins the Mechlin 
and Aix-la-Chapelle Rly. at Stat. of 
Guillemins continues along the 1. bank 
of the Meuse to Liege. £The rt. 
branch of the railway which runs into 
Liege, Stat. of Longdoz, after skirting 
the groat iron-works, crosses the Meuse 
on a bridge of 5 arches, 82 ft. span, 
rt. is Yal St. Lambert, where are the 
largest glass-works on the Continent. 
1* m. lower down is 

rt. 5 Seraing Stat. (H. de la 
Bruy ere), a populous village, stretching 
nearly a mile along the bank of the 
Meuse, and occupied by workmen, 
connected by a handsome suspension 
bridge thrown over the Meuse with 
(1.) Jemeppe Stat. It is a focus of 
industry, iron furnaces, forges, and 
coal mines; the chief being the esta¬ 
blishment formed by the late John 
Cockerill, 1816, perhaps the largest 
manufactory of machinery in the world. 
It occupies the former Palace of the 
Prince Bishops of Liege, which 
serves but as the fa9ade or vestibule 
of the other constructions since added 
to fit it for its present purpose, ex¬ 
tending f m. back from the river, 
over the space once the Episcopal gar¬ 
dens, now blackened with coal and 
piled up with iron. Amidst the smoke 
and flames issuing from its 40 or 50 
tall chimneys, its palatial and ecclesi¬ 


Sect. II. 

astical character have alike nearly dis¬ 
appeared. The vast pile of building 
forms a little town of itself; iron and 
coal are extracted from mines within 
its walls, which also enclose a canal and 
railroad leading down to the river, 4 
blast furnaces, 15 puddling furnaces, 
rolling-mills, and forges, where iron is 
wrought into articles of all sorts from 
penknives up to steam-engines and 
locomotives, inferior only to those made 
in England. A locomotive costs 37,500 
fr. The Lion, on the field of Waterloo, 
was cast here. 20,369 souls form the 
present population of Seraing: in 1827 
it had but 2226. Here are numerous 
steam-engines, of say 2500-horse power. 
Mr. Cockerill was originaUv in partner¬ 
ship with the late King of Holland; 
but after his expulsion from Belgium, 
in 1830, Mr. C. purchased his share. 
Seraing has been disposed of to a com¬ 
pany, styled “La John Cockerill So- 
ciete,” by whom it is now worked. 
It employs 7000 men in its workshops 
and mines. The place is not shown, 
except to persons bearing letters of 
introduction, which may be obtained 
in the office at Liege. 

1 Ougree Stat. Cross the Cologne Rly. 

7 Liege ( Longdoz) Station is the 
nearest to the Place du The'atre, where 
are the principal hotels, crossing the 
bridge. The Maestricht trains (see 
below) run from this.] 

The branch which continues from 
Flemalle, along the 1. bank, is 11 
kilom. — 6 m. 7 furlongs, in length. 
The stations are, 

3^ kilom. Jemeppe Stat., opposite to 
Seraing, with which it is connected by 
an iron suspension bridge. 

2 Tilleur Stat. 

H Guillemins Junct. Stat., on the main 
line of railroad from Louvain to Aix- 
la-Chapelle, and on the 1. bank of the 
river above Liege, is about £ m. from 
the hotels. Omnibus, 50 c. At Val 
Benoit is the bridge by which the rly. 
to Aix crosses the river. 

Li^ge (Flemish, Luik; German, 
Liittich.)— Inns: 1st class: H. de Suede, 
in the Place du Theatre, best situation, 
first-rate—H. d’Angleterre, behind the 




179 


ROUTE 24. —LIEGE. 


Belgium * 

Theatre, a very good family hotel; II. 
de TEuropc, also near the Theatre. 
2nd class: II. du Grand Monarque, 
good; H. Schiller; Pommelette, Rue 
du Souverain - Pont, noisy; Grand 
Cerf; H. de France; II. de l’Univers, 
close to the Kailway, good. 

Liege is finely situated at the junc¬ 
tion of the Ourthe with the Meuse, in 
a fertile valley most productive in vege¬ 
tables; it has 107,700 Inhab., and no 
other Belgian town appears to be so 
thriving. The clouds of smoke usually 
seen from a distance hanging over it 
proclaim the manufacturing city,—the 
Birmingham of the Low Countries; 
and the dirty houses, murky atmosphere, 
and coal-stained streets, are the natural 
consequence of the branch of industry 
in which its inhabitants are engaged. 
The staple manufacture is that of fire¬ 
arms, employing at least 20,000 persons 
in and about the town; Liege is, in 
fact, one great armoury, and has pro¬ 
duced nearly a million fire anus annu¬ 
ally for some time past. The saddlery 
is also very good here, and a particular 
kind of coarse cloth is manufactured in 
large quantities. There is a Royal 
Cannon Factory and a small-arm factory 
in the suburb of St. Leonhard, and the 
Cockerill Company manufactures spin¬ 
ning machinery and steam-engines to 
rival the English. The cause of this 
commercial prosperity is, as might be 
conjectured, the presence of coal in 
great abundance close at hand. The 
mines are worked upon very scientific 
principles : some of them are situated 
so near to the town that their galleries 
are carried under the streets, so that 
many of the houses, and even the bed 
of the river, are in some places under¬ 
mined. 

But Liege is not merely a place of 
trade ; it abounds in interesting build¬ 
ings, good specimens of ancient archi¬ 
tecture, civil and ecclesiastical. At 
the head of these we name the * Palais 
de Justice , occupying one side of the j 
Place St. Lambert, formerly palace of 
the Prince Bishop, built by the Card! 
Bishop Erard de la Marck, 1533, a 
most interesting edifice. The quaint 
Renaissance pillars of the colonnade 
which surrounds it have a striking 


effect. Each pillar is carved with a 
different pattern. The front of the 
palace is modern, but in the rear remains 
much good Gothic of the 16th cent. A 
new wing was built in the olden style, 
to serve as a Government House, 1852. 

In front of the Bishop’s palace stood 
the cathedral of St. Lambert; utterly 
destroyed by the French revolutionists. 

Liege is pre-eminently rich in 
churches, though she retains only 29 
out of 40 she once possessed. They 
are distinguished for their rich-coloured 
interiors. 

The present Cathedral , formerly the 
collegiate ch. of St. Paul (founded 967, 
by Bp. Heraclius), is a fine building, 82 
ft. high, of good proportions, painted 
roof, with turrets at the angles (the 
choir of the 13th cent., the nave 1557). 
The carved wooden pulpit , perhaps the 
finest in Belgium, has 5 marble statues 
beneath it, of Religion, with SS. Peter, 
Paid, Lambert, and Hubert: it is by 
Wm. Geefs. The Tresor contains eccle¬ 
siastical antiquities : reliquary of Holy 
Cross, 1058, partly gold; bust of St. 
Lambert, silver gilt, with reliefs; St. 
George and Dragon, with kneeling 
figure of Charles the Bold, its donor, 
1471; cup of silver gilt, 15th cent.; 
numerous vestments. 

St. Jacques (date 1513-28), restored 
by the government, is the finest of 
the existing churches: the pier-arches 
are elegantly fringed ; it possesses wide 
windows (filled with painted glass), 
elegantly mullioned; net-work screens; 
reeded pillars, branching into rich tra¬ 
cery, spreading over the roof, studded 
with embossed ornaments, containing 
within them gay arabcscoes, medallions 
of saints, sovereigns, and prelates innu¬ 
merable, all most gorgeously, yet har¬ 
moniously, painted and gilt. — Hope. 
The painted glass in the choir (date, 
early in the 16th cent.) is very good 
for the period. 

This church may be visited on the 
way to or from the railroad. 

St. Bartholomew’s Ch. of 5 aisles, 
built 1015, surmounted by 2 W. towers 
of brick, but modernized within, con- 














180 


ROUTE 24.' —LIEGE. 


Sect. tl. 


PLAN 

OF 

LIEGE. 


1. St. Paul. 

2. St. Jacques. 

3. St. Barthelemy. 

4. Ste. Croix. 

6. Palais de Justice. 

6. Hdtel de Ville. 

7. Uni versity—Library—Museum. 

8. Musee. 

9. Theatre. 

10. Gymnase. 

11. Prison. 

12. Market. 

13. Cannon Foundry. 

14. Manufactory of Arms. 

15. Zinc Works (Vieille Montagne). 

16. Poet Office. 

17. Statue of Gretry. 



Botanic Garden. 

































Belgium. 


ROUTE 24. —LIEGE. 


1S1 









































182 


ROUTE 24 

tains a very old font of brass, past at 
Din ant 1112—the basin resting on 10 
oxen, adorned with bas-reliefs of Holy 
Baptism. 

Ste. Croix is an interesting ch., well 
restored. An apsidal chapel at the W. 
is the oldest part, and dates from 9th 
cent. The ch. was nearly rebuilt in 14th 
cent. The modern glass is good. See 
a groined Sacristy of rare beauty. 

St. Martin's, a large Gothic ch., with 
lancet windows, has been spoiled by 
whitewash. A long ascent must be 
mastered to reach it. 

St. Denis deserves a visit, for the sake 
of its fine apsidal choir and good stained 
glass and a carved altarpiece near the 
font. 

A provincial Museum is commenced 
in an old church in the market-place. 
It contains pictures by Paul de la 
Roche, Ingres (portrait of Napoleon), 
&e. &c.; a carved chimney-piece which 
belonged to Bp. Erard de la Mark. 

The University , in a building ori¬ 
ginally a Jesuit college, was founded 
by King William I. of Holland in 
1817. There are 46 professors, who 
lecture to about 700 students in the 
various faculties. It contains a Museum, 
which, though not very complete or 
well arranged, possesses some objects of 
interest, as illustrating the natural his¬ 
tory of this part of Belgium; such as 
the collection of fossil bones from the 
numerous caverns near Liege, which 
have acquired celebrity from the abun¬ 
dant and remarkable animal remains 
they have afforded, and the interest 
attached to them is heightened by 
the discovery of human bones and 
skulls in the same cave with bones 
of bears, hyaenas, the elephant, and 
rhinoceros; The principal caves are 
those of Engis, Chokier, Ramioul, 
Engihoul, Huy, Fond de Foret, Gof- 
fontaine.” {T. T.) The Botanical Col¬ 
lections are remarkable, and deserve the 
notice of students. The library contains 
100,000 vols. and 469 curious MSS. 
collected from suppi’essed monasteries. 
A Botanic Garden , well stored with 


—LIEGE. Sect. II. 

plants, and beautifully kept, is attached 
to the University. 

Post Office, Rue de l’Universite. 

Vigilantes, § 22 A. 

There are 5 bridges over the Meuse : 
—the highest up the stream, Pont da 
Val Benoit, gives a passage to the Rly. 
as well as the carriage-road;—the new 
Pont da Commerce , built 1867 ;—the 
Pont de la Boverie, of 5 arches (4 over 
the Meuse, 1 over the Ourthc);—the 
Pont des Arches, near the centre of the 
town, the oldest at Liege, has been 
rebuilt. During the sack of Liege by 
Charles the Bold, women and children 
were hurled into the river by hundreds 
from the old bridge. 

There are 3 Railway Stations : a, des 
Guillemins; b, de Longdoz, on rt. 
bank of Meuse; c , de Vivegnis, for the 
line to Tongres and Hasselt. The 
Brussels Rly., via Namur, runs to the 
two first: the Longdoz Stat. is much 
nearer the Hotels. 

The Casino, on the S. side of the 
Meuse, near the Longdoz Rly. Stat., in 
the midst of some ornamental grounds, 
is worth a visit (§ 40) on account of the 
view from them. English strangers are 
admitted, on the introduction of a mem¬ 
ber (the hotel-keeper), to the gardens 
and to the balls given here. 

Outside the walls, in the convent of 
St. Julian, Sir John Mandeville, the 
English traveller, who died here 1372, 
was buried. The chapel exists, and a 
number of indiscriminate bones, but 
there is nothing to mark his grave. 

Gretry, the composer, was born here, 
in a house marked by an inscribed 
tablet on the front, in the Rue des 
Recollets, on the rt. bank of the Meuse. 
A statue of him, in bronze, 13 ft. high, 
by Geefs, is set up in the Place du 
Theatre. In the Place de TUniversite 
is a statue of Andre Dumont, the 
geologist. 

The florist should visit Makoys’ nur¬ 
sery garden near Liege, one of the most 
celebrated in Belgium: from it there 
is a fine view of the town. 

Liege, in mediaeval Latin, was 
called Leodium, and is the capital of 
the Walloons, who spread from this to 
Longwy in France and to Mons, and 
are very anxious not to be supposed 





183 


Belgium. route 24. —liege. 

Flemish, claiming a descent from the 
Eburones. The Walloon language, 
spoken by the lower orders, is a dia¬ 
lect, or rather idiom, of the French, 
and resembles the old French of the 
13th cent., but contains many Celtic 
and some Teutonic words unknown 
to French of any age. Sir Walter Scott 
is unusually inaccurate in making his 
Liegeois speak Flemish. The Walloons, 
like the Swiss, served in former times 
in t]^e armies of Spain, Austria, and 
France; they were generally enrolled 
into cavalry regiments: a regiment of 
700 men composed the standing army 
or body-guard of the Ecclesiastical 
Princes of Liege. 

The German Emperors, as early as 
the 10th cent., raised the Bishops of 
Liege to the rank of sovereign and 
independent princes, and bestowed ter¬ 
ritory upon them, which they held as a 
fief of the empire. 

The government of the bishops was 
never strong, and the history of Liege 
is little better than a narrative of a suc¬ 
cession of bloody revolutions, in which 
a discontented populace struggled for 
freedom and power and licence with a 
despotic and often incompetent ruler. 
Liege, nevertheless, remained under 
the dominion of its bishops down to the 
time of the French invasion, 1794. 

A visit to Liege, and the ancient 
Bishop’s palace, will call to the mind 
of an Englishman the vivid scenes and 
descriptions of ‘ Quentin Durward.’ He 
will, however in vain endeavour to 
identify many of the places there spoken 
'of with the spot. The Bishop’s “ Castle 
of Schonwaldt, situated about 10 m. 
from the town,” cannot be Seraing, as 
it was not built till a much later period. 
Sir Walter Scott never visited Liege, 
so that his localities are purely ima¬ 
ginary ; yet from the vividness of 
his description of the town, and the 
perfect consistency of all his topogra¬ 
phical details, few readers would doubt 
that he was personally acquainted with 
it. He has also made a slight variation 
in the romance from the real facts of 
history, as far as relates to Liege : and 
as the events on which he founded the 
novel are of the highest interest, and 
serve to illustrate the stoiy of this 


QtTENTIN DtmWARL. 

ancient “ imperial free city,” it may 
not be amiss shortly to relate them. 
The citizens of Liege, puffed up, as 
Philip do Comines says, by pride and 
riches, gave constant proofs of their 
boldness and independence by acts of 
insubordination, and even of open re¬ 
bellion, against their liege lord, Charles 
the Bold of Burgundy, and against the 
bishops, who were his allies or sup¬ 
ported by him. He had inflicted severe 
chastisement upon the Liegeois after 
his victory at St. Trond (when many 
thousands of them were left dead on the 
field), by abridging then- privileges and 
taking away their banners ; and when 
they submissively brought him the keys 
of the town, he refused to enter by the 
gates, but compelled them to batter 
down the city wall for a distance of 
20 fathoms, and fill up the ditch. He 
then entered by the breach, with his 
visor down, hte lance in rest, at the 
head of his armed bands, as a con¬ 
queror ; and further, to disable the bold 
burghers from mutiny, ordered all their 
fortifications to be demolished. This 
punishment was inflicted in 1467 ; but 
it was so little regarded, that the very 
next year they again broke out into 
open revolt, at the instigation of secret 
emissaries of Louis XI., seized upon 
the person of their bishop in his castle 
at Tongres, and brought him prisoner 
to Liege. 

They were headed by one John de 
Yilde, or Ville, called by the French 
Le Sauvage : it is not improbable that 
he Avas an Englishman, whose real name 
was Wild, and that he was one of those 
lawless soldiers who at that time served 
wherever they got best pay, changing 
sides whenever it suited them. The 
Liegeois, under this Yilde, committed 
many acts of cruelty, cutting in pieces, 
before the bishop’s eyes, one of his 
attendants, and murdering 16 others, 
who were canons of the church, on the 
road to Liege. In Sir Walter Scott's 
romance William de la Marck plays 
nearly the same part as Wild; but in 
reality this bishop succeeded soon after 
in making his escape. 

In 1482, 14 years after the events 
narrated in the novel, and long after 
the death of Charles the Bold, William 












184 


ROUTE 24. —LIEGE. 


Sect. It. 


de la Marck, The Wild Boar of Ardennes , 
wishing to obtain the mitre for his son, 
murdered the Bishop of Liege, Louis 
de Bourbon, whom Charles the Bold 
had supported. 

When tidings of the proceedings of 
the men of Liege were brought to 
Charles the Bold at Peronne, he im¬ 
mediately laid Louis under arrest, 
exactly as described in the novel, and 
compelled him to march against the 
rebels, at the head of his soldiers, while 
he led on his own Burgundians. Louis 
showed little hesitation to comply with 
the proposal, though the citizens were 
his allies, and he had in fact fomented 
the rebellion. Nothing, however, ap¬ 
pears to have damped the courage of 
the Liegeois: they made 3 separate 
sallies out of their breaches and over 
their ruined walls. They were led on 
by the same Vilde, who^in one of these 
attacks was slain, but not before he had 
laid low many of the bravest among the 
Burgundian guards. Their last sally was 
planned at a moment when the invad¬ 
ing forces, tired out with long watch¬ 
ing, had taken off their armour and 
retired to rest, previous to the grand 
assault on the town, which Charles and 
Louis had arranged for the following 
morning. The foremost in this enter¬ 
prise were 600 men from a town called 
Franchimont, on the road between 
Liege and Spa, firm allies of the citi¬ 
zens, and considered their bravest sol¬ 
diers. Like the Spartans and Homans 
of old, these 600 devoted themselves to 
the enterprise of seizing or slaying the 
2 princes, as they lay in their quarters 
before the town, or agreed to perish 
in the attempt. About midnight the 
Scotch archers and Burgundian guards 
attached to the persons of the 2 sove¬ 
reigns were roused by a terrible alarm 
of the enemy, who had penetrated al¬ 
most up to the 2 houses in which the 
princes were lodged, without discovery. 
The attack was so sudden, and the con¬ 
fusion which ensued so much aug¬ 
mented by the jealousy which subsisted 
between the Duke and the King, each 
believing the other to be concerned in 
the plot, that the enterprise had nearly 
succeeded. But having recovered from 
the surprise, and hastily put on their 


armour, they succeeded at last, with the 
aid of their guards, in driving back the 
assailants, and the brave men of Franchi¬ 
mont were for the most part cut to 
pieces. 

The next day the city, already de¬ 
prived of its fortifications, which Charles 
had caused to be razed to the ground, 
was entered at various points by the 
invading army, and no resistance was 
offered. Either exhausted by their 
exertions, or lulled in their suspicions, 
the citizens were no longer ready to 
resist. So unprepared were they in¬ 
deed, that the besiegers found the cloth 
laid in almost every house which they 
entered, as it happened to be dinner¬ 
time. Many were slaughtered at once, 
to appease the vengeance of Charles ; a 
great number fled to the woods, only 
to perish there of cold. The city was 
condemned by him to destruction; given 
up to unrestricted licence, plunder, and 
bloodshed, without respect to age, sex, 
or condition; and no sooner had he 
quitted it than it was set on fire in 
various places ; the fires were renewed 
every day for 7 weeks, until every 
building, except churches or convents, 
wms burnt to the ground and levelled 
with the dust! * 

These events took place in Oct. 1468 ; 
before that time the number of inhabit¬ 
ants exceeded 120,000. 

Environs .—Very extensive prospects 
may be obtained from the heights 
above the town, especially from the 
* old Citadel on Mont St. Walburg, on 
the 1. bank of the Meuse, command¬ 
ing the windings of the river, the 
distant Ardennes, &c. Another good 
point of view is the Fort Chartreuse, 
an eminence on the opposite side of the 
valley. The junction of the 3 valleys 
of the Meuse, Ourthe, and Vesdre, close 
to Liege, with the outline of the Ar¬ 
dennes in the distance, forms a land¬ 
scape of no ordinary beauty. 

At Roermont, a height above the 
Chartreuse, the Austrians, under the 
Prince of Coburg, suffered a defeat 
(1794) from the French under Join- 
dan, which wrested the Pays-Bas for 
ever from the house of Austria. 

* See Kirk’s ‘ Charles the Bold/ vol. ii. 








Belgium. 

Herstal, see below. 

Excursions to Spa and Chaud Fon¬ 
taine, described Rte. 25, and to the 
caves of Maestricbt, Rte. 27. 

In order to gain admittance to sec 
the Iron Works at Seraing , a written 
order must be obtained from the Cocke- 
rill Societe’s office in Liege. 

Steamers ply, when there is water 
enough, daily to and from Namur; 
daily to Rotterdam, by Maestricht, stop¬ 
ping for the night at Venloo. 


Liege to Maestricht.—Railwag opened 
1861 (4 trains daily, in 1 hr. and 1| hr.), 
along the rt. bank of the Meuse. Ter¬ 
minus at Longdoz. Travellers making 
the excursion to the quarries at Macs- 
trieht had better leave their baggage at 
Liege, and avoid custom-houses. 

Steamers twice a-day, in 2 hrs., return¬ 
ing in 4 hrs. The landing-place of the 
steamers is below the Pont dcs Arches. 
The river Meuse has been canalised 
between Liege and Maestricht, and the 
canal furnished with locks, so as to 
maintain a passage for vessels at all 
seasons. The first objects to remark 
are— 

1. The Mont de Piete, of red brick 
with stone quoins, and the Royal Can¬ 
non Foundry, backed by the hill of the 
citadel. 

1. A round tower; the stump of a 
burnt windmill. 

rt. 5 JupilleStat., peeping from among 
the trees, with its ch., was the favourite 
resort of King Pepin, who died here 
714. 

rt. 3 W andre Stat. 

1. Heristal or Herstal, birthplace of 
Pepin le Gros, Maire du Palais to the 
last Merovingian Kings of France, is 
a long village of workmen’s houses, 
stretching nearly 3 m. up to Liege. 
There are some fragments of a 
Frankish (?) Palace with 2 turrets near 
the Town-house. 

rt. 3 Argenteau Stat. : the chateau 
belongs to the wealthy Count Mercy; 
it is finely placed on the summit of 
a rocky height. The castle is con- 


185 

nected by a bridge with another rock 
occupied by gardens. 

rt. 3 Vise Stat., once a fortress, was 
the head-quarters of Louis XIV. in 
1673, during the siege of Maestricht. 
The fortifications were razed by the in¬ 
habitants, 1775. 

1. Lixhe : Belgian custom-house. 

rt. 4 Eysdcn Stat.: Dutch custom¬ 
house. 

The summit of the Pietersberg 
(300 ft.) is crowned by the Chateau 
Caster. The ruins of a Roman fort, 
called Lichtenberg, are also visible, and 
near it the entrance to the subterranean 
Quarries. On the N. slope of the hill 
run the walls of the citadel. Bridge of 
9 arches over the Meuse. 

1. 10 Maestricht Stat . (Rte. 27). The 
Inns are a good way from the waterside, 
but the guide to the quarries of the 
Pietersberg lives a little way within 
the gate, near the Arsenal. 


ROUTE 25. 

LIEGE TO AIX-LA-CIIAPELLE, BY VER- 
VIERS, RAILWAY.—VISIT TO SPA. 

55 kilom. = 34jj in. 

This Railway was finished in 1843- 
44. Trains, in 2j hrs., exclusive of a 
stoppage at the custom-house of Vcr- 
viers, start from Guillemins as well 
as Longdoz Stat. in Lie'ge. Travellers 
bent on a pedestrian excursion would 
be well repaid for ascending the valley 
of the Vesdre on foot as far as Dolliain. 

The country between Liege and Aix- 
la-Chapelle presented serious obstacles 
to the formation of a railway, which 
have been overcome only by the utmost 
skill and arduous exertions of the en¬ 
gineer. The cost exceeded one million 
sterling; there are 19 tunnels in the 
Belgian part of the line alone, so 
that it has been compared to a needle 
run through a corkscrew. It is con- 


&OUTE 25.— LIEGE TO A1X-LA-CIIa1 j ELLE. 







186 


ROUTE 25. —CHAUDFONTAINE. FRANCHIMONT. 


Sect. II. 


ducted across the Meuse by a fine 
bridge (Pont da Val St. Benoit) of 
5 arches, 469 ft. long, a little way above 
Liege. It afterwards follows nearly 
the same line as the high road as far as 
Limburg, crossing the Yesdre by 17 
bridges, and repeatedly piercing the 
rock. 

Soon a,fter crossing the Meuse the 
zinc-works of the Vieille Montagne 
Company are passed, and the river 
Ourthe is crossed by a bridge of 3 
arches at 

4 Chenee Stat.—a place of manufac¬ 
ture at the junction of the Ourthe with 
the Yesdre (the $ is pronounced in this 
word). Here are the zinc works and 
foundries of the Vieille Montagne Comp ., 
which supplies nearly all Europe. It 
obtains the ores from Moresnet (the old 
mountain), Huy, Engis, Stolberg, and 
other mines in Belgium and Germany, 
and reduces them here, at Liege, at 
Tilf, &c. It employs near 7000 hands 
(at Angleur). 

The railway ascends the valley of the 
Vesdre, one of the most charming in 
Belgium, crossing the windings of the 
stream all the way to Limburg. The 
scenery is enlivened by neat villas and 
gardens interspersed with orchards and 
green pastures, alternating with large 
manufactories, principally of cloth, 
giving to it an English character. 

3 Chaudfontaine Stat.— Inns : H. 
des Bains, a large bathing establish¬ 
ment. The hot spring which supplies 
the baths rises in an island in the 
midst of the Yesdre. The water is 
pumped up by a large wheel turned by 
the stream. 

This little village is a favourite Sun¬ 
day resort of the Liegeois : its situation 
is charming; the scenery around bears 
some resemblance to that of Matlock, 
and the wooded heights which enclose 
it abound in shady walks leading to 
points of extensive view when the 
summit is reached. The Yesdre was a 
good fishing stream, but the grayling 
have been destroyed in this part by 
the erection of zinc-works. 

4 Le Trooz Stat. Old castle, now a 
cannon foundry. Cross the * Vesdre : 
pass 2 tunnels. 


4 Nessonvaux Stat. 

5 Pepinster Junction Stat. An Hotel 
has been built here. 

rt. is a modern Gothic castle of the 
Vicomte de Biolley, a manufacturer of 
Venders, said to occupy the site of King 
Pepin’s hunting lodge. 

Excursion to Spa. [rt. Here the 
Branch Railroad (opened 1854) to Spa 
(8 m.) and Luxembourg turns off, up the 
valley of the Hoegne, which is equally 
pleasing with that of the Yesdre, clothed 
with meadows of the brighest verdure, 
and enlivened by many country-houses, 
belonging principally to the manufac¬ 
turers of Verviers. Long lines of cloth 
hung out in the sun proclaim the staple 
manufacture of the district. 

7 Theux Stat. 

A little beyond the village of Theux, 
famous for its quarries of black marble 
and mines of calamine (zinc), are seen 

“ The Towers of Franchimont, 

Which, like an eagle’s nest in air. 

Hang o'er the stream and hamlet fair. 

Deep in their vaults, the peasants say, 

A mighty treasure buried lay, 

Amass’d through rapine and through wrong 
By the last lord of Franchimont. 

The iron chest is bolted hard, 

A huntsman sits, its constant guard; 

Around his neck his horn is hung, 

His hanger in his belt is slung; 

Before his feet his bloodhounds lie : 

An ’tvvere not for his gloomy eye, 

Whose withering glance no art can brook, 

As true a huntsman doth he look 
As bugle ere in brake did sound, 

Or ever halloo'd to a hound. 

“ To chase the fiend, and win the prize 
In that same dungeon, ever tries 
An aged necromantic priest; 

It is an hundred years at least 

Since ’twixt them first the strife begun, 

And neither yet has lost or won. 

And oft the conjuror's words will make 
The stubborn demon groan and quake, 

And oft the bands of iron break, 

Or bursts one lock that still amain 
Fast as ’tis open’d shuts again. 

Thus magic strife within the tomb 
May last until the day of doom, 

Unless the adept shall learn to tell 
The very word that clench’d the spell. 

When Franchimont lock’d the treasure cell. 

An hundred years are pass’d and gone, 

And scarce three letters has he won.” 

Walter Scott. 

During tlie siege of Liege by Charles 
the Bold and Louis XI., 600 inhabit¬ 
ants of Franchimont banded themselves 
together with the design of seizing the 




ROUTE 25.— SPA. SPRINGS. 


18? 


Belgium . 


persons of these two monarchs as they 
lay encamped before the walls. They 
failed in their bold attempt, as has been 
already related, and paid for their 
heroism with their lives. An inscrip¬ 
tion on the rock, by the road-side, re¬ 
cords the deed, which is well described 
by Ph. de Comines. 

3 La Reid Stat. 

4 Spa Stat.— Inns: H. de Flandres. 
—H. d’Orange.—H. des Pays-Bas.— 
These are superior hotels. Table-d’hote 
(at 4) 4 frs.; dinner in private 5 frs.; 
bottle of Bordeaux 3 frs.—H. de 1’Eu¬ 
rope.—II. d’Angleterre.—H. des Etran- 
gers.—Grand Hotel, 1870. 

There are several good restaurants, 
whence dinners are sent out to private 
lodgings. The best is the Rocher de 
Cancale, Place lloyale, a first-rate 
cuisine. 

Spa is almost made up of inns and 
lodging-houses, many of which receive 
lodgers at much reduced rates in winter. 
The number of permanent Inhab. is 
5000. The number of visitors amounts 
to about 16,000. The season begins 
May 1, and lasts to Oct. 31. 

It is prettily situated in a sort 
of semi-basin, in the midst of hills 
forming part of the Ardennes chain; 
the heights overhanging it are covered 
with shrubberies, and intersected by 
healthful and airy walks, with pleasing 
prospects at intervals. 

Spa is the most fashionable watering- 
place in Belgium, and has for 2 cen¬ 
turies been frequented by distinguished 
visitors from all parts of Europe. Our 
Charles II. repaired hither, when in 
exile, 1654, and the Czar Peter w r as 
restored to health—shaken by constant 
dissipation—by the use of Spa waters 
in 1717. It stands 1000 ft. above the 
sea-level, and the purity of its air is 
proved by the fact that the cholera has 
never visited it. A large annual grant 
of money for the improvement of the 
town, and erection of new baths, pump- 
room, &c., has been made by the Bel¬ 
gian government. A handsome new 
Bathing Establishment was erected 1865. 
Spa is the only place in Belgium where 
public gaming is allowed. 

The chief edifices here are—1. The 


Redoute, a large building (date 1769), 
plain without, but handsome within, 
which includes, under one roof, a cafe, 
a Theatre open 4 times a week, ball¬ 
room, reading-room, and gambling- 
rooms, where rouge et noir and roulette 
are carried on nearly from morning to 
night. The profits of this establish¬ 
ment exceed 40,000/. a year. On Satur¬ 
day a ball is given here during the 
season; on other evenings there is 
music and a soiree dansante, all provided 
gratis by the Company who rent the 
gaming-tables. 

In former times the gaming-houses 
belonged to the Bishop of Liege, who 
was a partner in the concern, and de¬ 
rived a considerable revenue from his 
share in the ill-gotten gains of the 
manager of the establishment, and no 
gambling tables could be set up with¬ 
out his permission. 2. The handsome 
edifice called Vauxhall, built 1770 as a 
second Redoute, and much frequented 
in former times, is now little used. 

A Band plays twice a day, either on 
the Place Rogale , or in the avenue of 
fine lime-trees called Promenade do 
Sept HeureSy or, during bad weather, 
in the ball-room of the Redoute. 

The Mineral Waters of Spa are sup¬ 
plied from 7 springs, all chalybeate, in 
which the delicate quantities of iron 
and of alkaline salines which they con¬ 
tain are so admirably combined by 
nature with the appropriate volume of 
carbonic acid gas, that they are not 
only agreeable to the palate, but are 
easy of digestion. They are all cold, 
bright, and sparkling, and are effica¬ 
cious in chronic affections of the liver, 
nervous diseases, dyspepsia, and in 
that general relaxation of the system 
which a long residence in hot climates 
causes. 

The springs, alike in general pro¬ 
perties, and differing slightly in their 
specific action on the human economy, 
are—1. The Pouhon (pouher, in Wal- 
! loon, is the same as puiser, to draw), 

I situated in the centre of the town, 
under a colonnade built by the King 
of the Netherlands in honour of Peter 
the Great. From this spring comes 
the Spa water, which is sent to the 
ends of the earth for the benefit of 







188 


ROUTE 25. —SRA, 


invalids. 2. The Tonnelets , old and 
new, so called because the water was 
first collected in little tubs: now 
almost deserted, distant 1| m. 3. The 
Sauveniere, on the road to Malmedi, 
in a little plantation of trees, about 
1 ^ m. from Spa. Near it, in the 
shrubbery, is a monument set up (1787) 
by the D. de Chartres (L. Philippe) and 
his 3 sisters in remembrance of their 
mother having received her cure from the 
use of these waters. The inauguration 
of it is described by Mad. de Genlis in 
her memoirs. It was destroyed by re¬ 
publican soldiers, 1792, and restored, 
1841, by Louis Philippe. 4. The Groes- 
beck , close to the Sauveniere. 5. The 
Geronstere ; it is very beautifully 
situated, at a height of 470 ft. above 
the Pouhon, and nearly 2 m. distant 
from it. The Sauveniere and Geron¬ 
stere are surrounded by extensive plea¬ 
sure-grounds, in which, during the 
fine weather, visitors breakfast, or dine, 
or take other refreshments furnished 
on the spot. 6. The Barisart , 1 m. 
from Spa, first brought into notice 
by Dr. Cutler, and now the most fre¬ 
quented of the distant springs, its 
waters being well suited for weak di¬ 
gestive organs. 

All these springs may be visited in 
succession, or any one may be reached 
at once by agreeable roads and paths 
bordered by avenues of limes, or cut 
through shady and picturesque ravines 
traversed by streams and water-falls, 
rising by gentle ascents. The entire 
tour of the springs forms a circuit of 
about 6 m. on foot; more in carriage. 

The healthy pleasure of exploring 
the walks and rides of the neighbour¬ 
hood is promoted by a great number of 
well-appointed carriages for hire, espe¬ 
cially pony-chaises called Americaines. 
It is the custom here for everybody to 
ride on horseback. There are more 
than 500 ponies for hire , chiefly the 
hardy and surefooted ponies of the 
Ardennes. The charge is high, and 
no tariff. N.B. It is absolutely neces¬ 
sary to make a bargain beforehand, on 
all occasions, if you would avoid dis¬ 
putes. They may likewise be engaged 
at the rate of 35 frs. per week. When 
a visitor finds out a tolerable one, he 


Sect. II. 

had better secure it for the whole period 
of his stay. 

Pong-chaises charge the course 5 or 
6 frs. 

Two-horse carriages , from 8 to 10 frs. 
The tour of the springs counts as a 
“ course.” 

There is a fine large Swimming-Bath 
in the town, built of limestone, through 
which a constant stream of fresh water 
flows. Ladies’ hours, 10 to 12 A.M. 

The English Physician at Spa is Dr. 
Cutler: the Drs. Lezaack and Jules 
Lezaack are Belgians. 

English Gh. Service on Sundays, at 
11 and 3, by a resident English clergy¬ 
man, in a room at the Yauxhall. The 
chaplain has collected nearly enough 
to build a church here; which, con¬ 
sidering the number of English visitors, 
ought to have been accomplished 
sooner. 

There is an English Club , to which 
members of the chief London clubs are 
readily admitted. 

There is much game in the neighbour¬ 
hood, and good trout and grayling fish¬ 
ing. There are Races in Aug. or Sept. 

Spa is famous for a peculiar manu¬ 
factory of Wooden Togs , somewhat like 
the Tunbridge ware. The wood of 
which they are formed is stained by 
being steeped in the mineral waters, 
and receives a dark grey or brown tint 
from the iron. A considerable number 
of hands, and some artists of no mean 
skill, are employed in decorating them 
with paintings of flowers, See. 

The Cascade de Coo, about 9 m. S. of 
Spa, is one of the customary excursions 
of the visitors at Spa. The road thither 
passes the Geronstere and the villages 
lvu and Roanne. A more pleasant but 
longer way is by Stavelot, where you 
descend the pretty Valley of the Am- 
bleve, which forms the Cascade de Coo, 
a fall of 30 or 40 ft. Ely. direct to 
Luxembourg (Rte. 33 a\ opening com¬ 
munications to Treves and the Moselle, 
orl. Switzerland, by Stavelot and Vieux 
Salm. 

The limestone mountains which 





ROUTE 25. —SPA. VERVIERS. 


189 


Belgium. 

compose the chain of Ardennes abound 
in natural caverns. One of these 
lies about 7 m. S.W. of Spa, at 
Remouchamps. It contains some fine 
stalactites ; but the views and descrip¬ 
tions published of it are on the whole 
exaggerated. The way to it is ovfer 
a very stony cross-road, difficult to find 
without the aid of a guide. It passes 
the village of La Reid, up several steep 
hills, and across a wild heath, and 
thence descends into a rugged ravine, 
in which lie the cave and village of Re¬ 
mouchamps. At the little Inn, II. des 
Etrangers, the visitor is provided with a 
blouse to keep his dress clean, with can¬ 
dles, and a guide. The entrance is closed 
by a door, the keys of which are kept in 
the village, and it is shown for the benefit 
of the commune. The path is wet and 
slippery. The grotto is traversed by a 
stream which is supposed to be the same 
as that which buries itself in the ground 
near Adseux, and which must pursue 
a subterranean course of some miles 
before it arrives at Remouchamps. 
This cave is situated in the mountain 
limestone. It alternates with clay-slate. 

Nearly opposite the cave stands Mont- 
jardin , an old castle on the top of an 
escarped rock, still inhabited, and sur¬ 
rounded by gardens. 

3 m. W. of Remouchamps, 10 m. from 
Spa, is the little village of Ambleve; and 
overhanging it the scanty ruins of an¬ 
other old castle, called les Quatre Fils 
Aymon (after these preux chevaliers of 
the nursery story-book). It was the 
residence of William de la Marck, the 
Boar of Ardennes, so called from the 
ferocity of his disposition, who figures 
in Scott’s novel of ‘ Quentin Durward.’ 
Some subterranean apartments, cut in 
the rock beneath the castle, are curious. 
A different road may be taken in re¬ 
turning to Spa, by Adseux, near which 
a river precipitates itself into a natural 
arch or cavern, and thence to Haute 
Beaumont (or Hodebomont). 

The traveller may proceed at once 
from Spa to the Rhine by way of 
Malmedi (Rte. 43) and Treves, and 
thence descend the Moselle to Coblenz 
by steam; or he may post from Mal¬ 
medi to Priim, and there turning aside 


explore Eifel and its extinct volcanoes 
(Rte. 45), and descend upon the most 
beautiful part of the Moselle, near the 
baths of Bertrich and Alf, in about 4 days. 
It is easy to reach Malmedi from Liege 
in one day, and Treves in a second day. 
The borders of the Moselle abound in 
objects of interest, combining pictu¬ 
resque scenery, wonderful geological 
phenomena, and remarkable Roman 
remains. 

In going from Spa to Venders we 
retrace our steps as far as Pepinster.'] 


From Liege to Aix, continued. 

The valley presents a succession of 
large cloth factories, alternating with 
the neat and handsome country houses 
and gardens of their proprietors. The 
railway crosses the Vesdre twice before 

3 Ensival Stat. 

2 Verviers Stat., 11 Buffet Restau¬ 
rant,” and Cabinet de Toilette, § 21. 
The baggage of travellers entering 
Belgium from Prussia is examined 
here, and the carriages are changed. 
The Inns near the station are so bad 
and exorbitant that it is preferable to 
repair to those in the town, although 
1 m. off. 

Verviers (Inns: H. des Pays-Bas; 
PI. de France), on the Vesdre : its popu¬ 
lation already exceeds 29,000; an in¬ 
stance of recent and rapid growth, chiefly 
owing to the flourishing state of its cloth 
manufactories, which are said to produce 
second-rate fabrics cheaper and better 
than those of England and France. 
There are about 60 cloth-mills in 
and around Verviers, employing 40,000 
hands and 155 steam engines, and cloth 
to the value of 3 millions sterling is 
exported. The Belgian army is clothed 
from the looms of Verviers. The water 
of the Vesdre is said to possess proper¬ 
ties which fit it admirably for dyeing. 
The streets, silent and deserted during 
the hours of labour, swarm with people 
between 12 and 2 on their way to 
and from dinner. 

After traversing 5 more tunnels, a 
high embankment, and a deep cut, 






190 


ROUTE 26.—BRUSSELS TO LlfGE. 


Sect. II. 


the rly. is carried over the valley of the 
Vesdre, on a viaduct of 21 arches, 65 ft, 
high. 

Dolhain, once a suburb of Limburg, 
is now the town. On an eminence to 
the rt. above it a church tower and 
some crumbling walls are seen: this is 
Limburg, formerly capital of the duchy 
of Limburg, now united to the province 
of Liege. The town, once flourishing 
and strongly fortified, is reduced nearly 
to ruin. Its outworks were blown up 
by the French in the time of Louis XIV. 
(1675), and various calamities of war 
and fire have made it little better than 
a heap of ruins. Even so late as 
1833-4, a fire consumed 40 houses. The 
Ch. of St. George , gutted by it, but re¬ 
stored since, contains an elegant Gothic 
tabernacle (date 1520), and a monument 
to a princess of Baden (1672). The 
view into the valley is pleasing, but 
there is nothing here worth stopping 
for. There are mines of zinc and coal 
in the neighbourhood, and much cheese 
is made in the district. 

The railway on leaving Dolhain 
quits the valley of the Vesdre. 

The first Prussian station is 

7 Herbesthal Stat., where passports 
are called for no longer, but the car¬ 
riages are searched; the baggage is 
examined at Aix or Cologne. The rail¬ 
road is carried on a bridge of 2 rows 
of 17 arches, 120 ft. high in the centre, 
over the Valley of the Geule; passes 
through 2 tunnels, the second of which 
is 2220 ft. long, pierced through a sand¬ 
hill, and finally reaches Aix-la-Chapelle 
down an inclined plane. 

6 Enfen Stat. 

10 Aix-la-Ciiapelle Terminus.— 
Close to (rt.) Borcette.— (Rte. 36.) 


ROUTE 26. 

MECHLIN OR BRUSSELS TO LIEGE, BY 
LOUVAIN.—RAILWAY. 

Brussels to Liege 114 kilom. = 71£ 
m. The journey to Liege by express 
train requires 2^ h. 

The direct line to Louvain follows 
that to Mechlin as far as 

Schaerbech Stat, [Not far olf, the 
line is Rijmenant, where in 1578 Don 
John of Austria was defeated by the 
Protestant Confederates, in whose ranks 
fought some Scotch regiments, who 
threw off their clothes during the action 
for the sake of coolness !] 

11 Haecht Stat. 

2 Weespelaer Stat. Near this is a 
park and pleasure ground, laid out in the 
French style, which is the delight of 
the cockneys of Brussels. 

6 Herent Stat. The railway crosses 
the Dyle, and runs not far from the 
Antwerp canal, which is lined with a 
treble row of trees, before reaching 

11 Louvain Stat., outside the town— 
omnibuses and vigilantes. (§ 22 a.) 
The II. de Ville is only £ h. walk from 
it through the Rue de Diest. 

| Louvain. (Flem. Leuven ; Germ. 
Lowen). — Inns : H. de Suede, Place du 
Peuple, near to the stat.; good and mo¬ 
derate. Cour de Mons.—Louvain, on 
i the Dyle, with 32,000 Inhab., is a city 







191 


Belgium. route 26. —louvain. church. 


of very ancient origin. The old Castle , 
of which a small fragment remains out¬ 
side the Mechlin gate, goes by the name 
of Chateau de Cesar, though it did not 
exist till 890, when the Empr. Arnold 
caused it to be built as a barrier against 
the invasion of the Normans. Edward 
III. of England lived for one year in the 
castle, and the Empr. Charles V. and his 
sister were educated here by Andrien 
Boyens, afterwards Pope Adrian YI. 
A high earthen rampart encloses the 
town on one side, and is cut through by 
the roads to Brussels and Mechlin. It 
has a deep dry fosse on the outside, and 
is from 80 to 100 ft. high. The View 
over the town from this height is very 
good indeed. The old Porte de Diest 
dates from 1526. The ground-plan of 
Louvain is nearly circular. 

The * Hotel de Ville is one of the rich¬ 
est and most elaborately decorated Gothic 
buildings in the world. Every part of 
the exterior is elaborately decorated by 
the chisel. It was begun 1448, and 
finished 1469, by M. de Layens, master 
mason of Louvain, and has been re¬ 
paired at the joint expense of the 
town and government. The delicate 
and rich masonry of the exterior, which 
had suffered from time and the weather, 
has been renovated entirely. Lhe sub¬ 
jects of the sculptured groups are, 
for the most part, taken from the Old 
Testament. The common council has 
decided that statues (in number about 
250) shall be placed in the niches of the 
3 facades and the towers. The niches 
on the ground floor are reserved for 
celebrated persons bom at Louvain, or 
who have been domiciled there, and 
for persons who have rendered eminent 
| services to the town. 

! The pictures within the Town Hall 
are generally of little consequence. A 
few are curious from their antiquity. 

The * Church of St. Peter , near to 
the Town Hall, is also well worth see¬ 
ing. It was founded in 1040 ; but hav¬ 
ing been twice destroyed by fire, the 
existing building is not older than 1430. 
An original drawing of the W. front 
(date 1507) is preserved in the Town 
Hall, with a singularly lofty tower and 


spire in the centre, 500 ft. high, and 
another on either side of it. A highly 
ornamented Roodloft , between the choir 
and nave, is in the richest flamboyant 
Gothic (date 1440). In front of it hangs 
a 12-branch chandelier of wrought iron 
—the work of Quentin Matsys, who was 
probably born at Louvain about 1450. 
Under the arch which separates the choir 
from its side aisle, on the N. side of the 
grand altar, is an elaborate Tabernacle 
of sculptured stone to contain the host. 
It is a hexagon in plan, tapering up¬ 
wards to a point, and is about 30 ft. 
high. See , in 2 of the choir chapels, 
2 altarpieces by Steurbout —the Martyr¬ 
dom of St. Erasmus (Patron contre le 
mal du ventre, “ Patroon tegen te 
Buykpyn”) a horrible subject, but 
treated with great propriety by the 
painter, and the Last Supper, a work of 
high merit. A Holy Family, by Quen¬ 
tin Matsys , in a side chapel at the back 
of the high altar, is considered the great 
ornament of the church. It was carried 
to Paris during the Revolution. On 
the shutters are painted the Death of St. 
Anne, a beautiful composition, and the 
Expulsion of Joachim from the Temple. 
In one of the nave chapels a picture by I. 
van Rillaer (?) represents a cook with his 
apron on, chosen bishop (St. Evortius ?) 
in consequence of the miraculous descent 
of a dove upon his head. In the fore¬ 
ground he appears to refuse the mitre, 
but behind preparations are making for 
his installation. Sir Joshua Reynolds 
says of it—“ It is a composition of near 
a hundred figures, many in good atti¬ 
tudes, natural and well invented. It is 
much more interesting to look at the 
works of those old masters than slight 
commonplace pictures of many modern 
painters.” The Pulpit of wood (date 
1742) represents St. Peter on a rock 
and the Conversion of St. Paul, sur¬ 
mounted by palm-trees. The stricken 
horse and fallen rider are finely exe¬ 
cuted both in form and expression. 
The carved woodwork of the main por¬ 
tals in the inside is remarkable. The 
font, of bronze, at the W. end of the 
nave, has an elaborate Gothic crane of 
iron attached to the wall near it, for 
the purpose of supporting the cover, 
now removed. One of the chapels in 







192 


ROUTE 26. —LOUVAIN'. UNIVERSITY. PICTURES. Sect. II. 


the N. aisle of the nave has a low screen 
of coloured marbles sculptured in the 
style of Louis XIY. The chapels con¬ 
taining the pictures by Steurbout and 
Matsys are locked; to see them, apply 
to the custode. 

The University , founded 1420, sup¬ 
pressed by the French, was re-esta¬ 
blished by the King of Holland in 
1817. Since 1836 it has once more 
become the nursing mother of Romish 
priests for Belgium. There are about 
600 students. In the 16th cent, it 
was considered the first university in 
Europe, and, being especially distin¬ 
guished as a school of Roman Catholic 
theology, it was then frequented by 
6000 students. There were formerly 
43 colleges, variously endowed by pious 
founders, dependent upon the Univer¬ 
sity : of these only about 20 now re¬ 
main, and their funds have been much 
reduced. The Colleges du Pape, des 
Philosophes, du St. Esprit, du Faucon 
(now a military hospital), &c., are 
sumptuous edifices of 18th cent, archi¬ 
tecture. 

The Halle aux Draps of the weavers, 
erected in 1317, was appropriated to 
the service of the University , after its 
first owners were banished for their re¬ 
fractory conduct. It still exhibits traces 
of the opulence of its founders, but is 
scarcely worth entering if the traveller 
be pressed for time. Far more inter¬ 
esting are 

♦The carved wooden stalls (15th cent.) 
in St. Gertrude's Church , originally the 
chapel of the Dukes of Brabant, re¬ 
puted the finest in Belgium; they are 
of oak, in flamboyant style, with de¬ 
tached groups and statues, and beauti¬ 
ful bas-reliefs. They have been re¬ 
stored by Goyers. The modern paint¬ 
ings by the Belgian artists Wappers, 
Matthieu, and de Keyser, in St. Mi¬ 
chael's , also deserve mention. 

The Tower of Jansenius , in which 
that celebrated theological writer com¬ 
posed the works which gave rise to 
those doctrines of grace and free-will, 
named after their author Jansenism, 
exists no longer. 


Louvain may easily be seen in f a 
day, or even less; the city has a deserted 
aspect, the more striking when contrasted 
with its ancient prosperity and swarm¬ 
ing population. Its walls, now in part 
turned into boulevards, measured 6 m. 
in circumference ; and in the 14th cent., 
when it was the capital of Brabant 
and residence of its princes, its Inhab. 
amounted to 100,000. Nearly half of 
them lived by the woollen manufac¬ 
tures established here. The weavers 
here, however, as elsewhere, were a 
turbulent race; and their rulers, being 
tyrannical and impolitic, banished, in 
1382, a large number of them from the 
town, in consequence of a tumult in 
which they had taken part, and during 
which they had thrown 17 of the ma¬ 
gistrates out of the windows of the 
Town-house. Many of the exiles took 
refuge in England, bringing with them 
their industry and independence; and, 
very much to the advantage of our 
country, established in it those woollen 
manufactures which have left all others 
in the world far behind. 

Louvain is famed at present for 
brewing Beer. 200,000 casks are made 
here annually: a great deal is ex¬ 
ported. That which remains for home 
consumption is reported to be very had. 
It may. be tasted at the Maison des 
Brasseurs , the Brewers’ Guild, a fine 
mansion, in the Elizabethan style, 
opposite the II. de Ville. Two fine 
houses in Rue de Namur, and several 
on the canal called La Leye, are good 
specimens of domestic Gothic. 

Here is the largest Bell Foundry in 
Belgium, that of M. Severin van 
Aerschode. 

Bailroads. —To AYavre, Ottignies, 
and Charleroi; to Aerschot, Diest, and 
Ilerenthals. 

The Railroad to Liege from Louvain 
leaves on the rt. the Abbey of Parc, still 
inhabited by monks, and furnished with 
3 fish-ponds. 

11 Yertryk Stat. 

7 Tirlemont Junct. Stat. (Flem. 
Thienen.) Buffet — Inn : Le Plat 







ROUTE 2G. —RAMILLIES. NEERWINDEN. 193 


Belgium. 

d’Etain; tolerable, A town of 12,000 
Inhab.: • formerly much more con¬ 
siderable. The space within its walls 
S. of the railway includes very few 
houses, owing to the devastation of 
afire in 1604, not yet repaired: the 
gates are old. In the centre of it is 
a very extensive square. The Ch. of 
St. Germain , on a height visible from 
the railway, was founded in the 9th 
cent.; the W. tower and vestibule are 
of the 12th. The choir is Transition, 
the nave and transepts Gothic. It has a 
lectern of brass, 15th cent., and an altar- 
piece by Wappers. The Jesuit J. Bol- 
landus, editor of the Acta Sanctorum, 
was born here. Outside the gate lead¬ 
ing to Maestricht are 3 large barrows, 
supposed to be Gallo-Roman graves. 
They are visible from the railway,—to 
the 1. 

[Branch Rlv. to Ramillies—the field 
of one of Marlborough’s victories—and 
Fleurus, where the French have fought 
many fights.] 

The railroad, after leaving Tirlemont 
station, overlooks the town from an 
embankment. 

rt. The Lion on the Field of Water¬ 
loo, and the Prussian Monument, are 
visible at a great distance, near 

6 Esemael Stat. 

On approaching Landen the rail¬ 
way traverses the plain of Neerwinden , 
celebrated for 2 great battles: in 1693, 
when the English under William III. 
were beaten by Marshal Luxemburg 
and the French; and in 1793, when the 
Austrians defeated the Revolutionary 
army, and drove it out of Belgium. 

[/. Leau, between Tirlemont and St. 
Trond, 5 m. to the N. of the railroad, 
was in the middle ages a fortified 
town, and part of the wall still remains. 
The Ch. of St. Leonard (date 1231) has 
2 W. towers, and a Gothic choir, whose 
apse is surrounded by an external arcade, 
like the Rhenish churches. It possesses 
several carved altarpieces ; a fine Pas¬ 
chal candlestick of brass, 17 ft. high, 
ornamented with figures of Saints, made 
at Dinant; and a Tabernacle, sculptured 
in the style of the Renaissance, of ala¬ 
baster, with canopy nearly 90 ft. high, 

[n. G.] 


erected at the cost of the Seigneur 
Martin van Wilre, 1558. He is buried 
in the tomb opposite it.] 

7 Landen Junct. Stat. Buffet; H. 
Quatre Saisons. The poor village which 
now bears this name, was the cradle of 
Pepin, ancestor of Charlemagne. He 
was originally buried here under a 
mound. [A branch railway rims hence, 

l. , by St. Trond to Hasselt, across the 
plain of Hesbaye by 

5 Yelm Stat., in prov. of Limburg. 

5 St. Trond Stat. ( Inns: L’Europe; 
Le Sauvage, tolerable), a town of 
11,500 Inhab., receiving its name from 
St. Trudon, who founded a monastery 
here, and gained great fame by the 
working of miracles. N. Dame is a 
cruciform 3rd pointed ch., 3 aisles; 
tower and spire added by Rolland. In¬ 
terior restored 1858, painted by artists 
of Liege, Tubernaile, &c.; statues by 
Geerts and Geefs. Dome on the chan¬ 
cel arch 16th cent. At Brustem, 
near this, a great battle was fought, 
in 1467, between Charles the Bold 
and his rebellious subjects of Liege. 
3000 of them, who had posted them¬ 
selves in the town, were compelled to 
surrender it to Charles, to destroy the 
gates and ramparts, and to deliver up 
to him 10 of their number, whom he 
caused to be beheaded. To Leau is 

4 §- m - 

7 Cortenbosch Stat. 

5 Aiken Stat. 

5 Hasselt Stat. (Rte. 27.)] 

4 Gingelom Stat. 

5 Rosoux Stat. 

5 Waremme Stat. (8 m. from Ton- 
gres, Rte. 27.) Waremme was capital 
of the district called Hesbaie, lying on 
the 1. of the Meuse. The old Roman 
road from Bavay to Tongres is crossed ; 
it is in good preservation, and is called 
by the people of the country the road 
of Brunehaut (Brunehilde). 

11 Fexhe Stat. rt. Castle of Bierset. 

8 Ans Stat. is 450 ft. above the 
level of the Meuse, and the trains de¬ 
scend by 2 inclined planes, about 2£ 

m. long, in 15 min., being drawn up by 

K 







194 


ROUTE 27. —ANTWERP TO AIX, BY MAESTRICHT. Sect. II. 


rapes attached to stationaiy engines, in 
12 min. The view, looking down upon 
Liege, is most striking. 

6 Liege Terminus (Gnillemins Stat.) 
is on the 1. hank of the Meuse, close to 
the Quai d’Avroy. The railway to Aix 
crosses the Meuse by the bridge of 
Yal St. Benoit, of 7 arches. (Rte. 24.) 

Longdoz Stat. is on the rt. bank, 
nearer the hotels. 


ROUTE 27. 

ANTWERP TO AIX - LA - CHAPELLE 
(SHORTEST WAY), BY AERSCHOT, 
DIEST, HASSELT, AND MAESTRICHT. 

•—RAIL. 

This rly. (Grand Central de la 
Belgique, 92 m.) opens a new and 
direct communication between Eng¬ 
land and the Rhine, which those accus¬ 
tomed to the longer route by Brussels 
and Liege may adopt with advantage. 
It is also expeditious. Trains run in 
4 to 5 hrs. 

Bouchat Stat. Tillage of 1950 Inhab. 
The rly. to Herenthals and Turnhout 
is crossed near 

Lierre Junct. Stat. The fine ch. is 
described Rte. 22a. 


5 Hasselt Junct. Stat., chief town 
of the Belgian Province of Limburg; 
9900 Inhab. On the plain between 
Haelen and Herck la ViLLe the Franks 
were encamped when they chose Pha- 
ramond for King, 406. The spot is 
still called Frankryk. 

7 Diefenbaeh Stat. 4 Be verst Stat. 

[At Beverloo is the permanent mili¬ 
tary camp for exercise and instruction 
of the Belgian army, capable of re¬ 
ceiving 15,000 men.j 

Berlaere Stat. Heyst-op-den Berg. 
Stat.—here are tanneries. 

Boischot Stat. 

Aerschot Junct. Stat. 

Aerschot on the Diemer (Inn: H. 
de l’Ange), 4162 Inhab. In the 
Parish ch. (date 1336) is a rood- 
screen or JubC, remarkable for its 
elaborate execution, and for the ex¬ 
cellent preservation of not only the 
tracery but even its numerous bas- 
reliefs and statuettes, all in a good 
style of art. The chandelier in front of 
the screen is a work of Quentin Matsys, 
presented by him to the church as a 
memorial of his wife, to hang over her 
grave in the aisle in which she is buried. 
It is a frame of metal rods, set with 
flames or flowers of hammered metal. 

Pail from Louvain to Herenthals. 

Our line follows the vaUey of the 
Diemer passing Testelt and Sichens 
Stat. to 

Diest Stat., a town of 8000 Inhab., 
and fortress. The Dutch gained a vic¬ 
tory over the Belgians here in 1831. 

14 Munster-Bilsen Junct. Stat. 
[Branch Rly. to Liege, passing 
through 

10 m. Tongres {Inn : Paon), a very 
ancient city of 6800 Inhab., on the 
Jaar, a tributary of the Meuse : site of a 
fort built by Drusus, but long before 
mentioned by Caesar in his ‘ Commen¬ 
taries.’ The Ch. of Notre Dame was the 
first dedicated to the Virgin on this 
side of the Alps. The existing Gothic 
edifice dates from 1240, but the cloister 
behind was built in the 10th cent., and 
is the oldest of the kind in the country. 
The Tresor of this church is very rich 




195 


Belgium. ROUTE 27.— 

in antiquities, plate, enamels, reli¬ 
quaries. 

Near the town, on the estate of 
Betho, there exists a mineral spring, 
mentioned by Pliny. It still retains 
its ancient properties, and is known as 
the fontaine de Pline or de St. Gilles.] 

5 Lanneken Stat. Cross Dutch fron¬ 
tier. 

6 Maestricht Stat., in the suburb of 
Wyk, outside the Bois-le-Duc Gate. 

Maestricht. — Inns: Levrier (Grey¬ 
hound, II. Hasenwind); good, with cer¬ 
tain defects. H. Bonn; au Casque 
(Helmet); both good, but far from the 
stat. Tables d’hote at I 5 . 

Maestricht, the capital of the Dutch 
portion of the province of Limburg, 
has 32,000 Inhab. It lies on the Maas, 
and is united by a bridge of 9 arches to 
the suburb called Wyck. It is one of 
the strongest fortresses in Europe; its 
works are very extensive, and partly 
undermined, with capabilities for lay¬ 
ing under water great part of the land 
around, by opening the sluices. To¬ 
gether with Venloo and Boermonde, it 
still belongs to the King of Holland, 
having been ceded to him by the treaty 
of 1831: it is garrisoned by 2000 Dutch 
troops. It was called by the Homans 
Trajectum superius (the upper ford), or 
Trajectum ad Mosam. 

The great strength of this town has 
subjected its inhabitants to the misery 
of numerous sieges. Among the most 
memorable was that of 1579, when the 
Spaniards, under the Duke of Parma, 
took it by assault, at the end of 4 
months, after having been repulsed in 
9 separate attacks by the garrison, 
which included a few English and 
Scotch soldiers: they were all put to 
the sword, and nearly 8000 of the 
townspeople massacred to satisfy Spa¬ 
nish vengeance. It was taken by Louis 
XIY.; but William III. of England 
failed before it. Maestricht was pre¬ 
served to Holland by its brave garrison 
Sept. 1830, and was the only place 
which resisted effectually the insurgent 
Belgians. There is an arsenal and a 
military magazine in the town. 

The StadhuiSj in the great market- 


MAESTKICHT. 

place, is in a modern style of architec¬ 
ture (date 1662): it contains a Library 
and collection of fine old Flemish 
Paintings , and some Tapestries. 

The *Ch. of St. Servais is a fine 
edifice with 5 towers, and a W. porch 
or narthex, retaining little, except the 
pillars of the nave and the pier arches, 
of the original ch. of the 10th cent. 
The apse and 2 towers are of the 12th 
cent. It has a splendid S. portal of 14 
orders, with statues and rich foliage 
(1230) ; the nave of 8 bays, with late 
pointed roof, and flamboyant side-cha¬ 
pels, curious W. transept, and a cloister 
of the 15th cent. The interior has been 
painted and restored (1860). It contains 
a Descent from the Cross by Van Dyk; 
the shrine of St. Servais—a work of 
the 13th cent, in copper gilt; and 
several reliquaries, pastoral staves, 
plate, &c., in the sacristy. 

The Ch. of Notre Dame rises from 
Homan substructions, and has an 
ancient crypt. Its W. front, like other 
churches of the district, has no en¬ 
trance ; it is surmounted by two 
towers. 

The square called Vrijthof, in which 
St. Servais stands, was the place where 
William de la Marck, nicknamed “lo 
Sanglier des Ardennes,” was beheaded, 
1485. Some pretty Public Gardens 
called the Park, were laid out in 
1838. 

The Porte deJaar, near the Meuse, is 
an ancient gateway, part of the original 
fortifications of 6th or 7th cent. 

The most remarkable thing about 
Maestricht are the * Subterranean Quar¬ 
ries under the hill called the Pietersberg , 
on which the Citadel or Fort St. Pierre 
stands. The entrance is not quite 3 m. 
from the Inns, outside St. Peter’s gate : 
the hire of a carriage is 6 fr.; the fee 
of a sworn guide 4 fr. One entrance is 
in the house of the burgomaster of St. 
Pierre, who keeps the key, which he 
hands over to a sworn guide on pay¬ 
ment of a fee of 1 fr. The walk 
through the caverns takes up 1 hr. to 

K 2 





196 


ROUTE 27 . —MAESTRICHT. 


Sect. II. 


1^ hr., and you make your exit at the 
top of the hill near the Casino or Tea 
Garden of Slavanden or Slavente. From 
the terrace here you command an ex¬ 
quisite view over Maestricht and the 
valley, 300 ft. above the river. In 
places the ground has fallen in, leaving 
tremendous gaps and holes. Some of the 
passages are wide enough to admit 
horses and carts. They cover a space 
of 13 miles by 6 m.: the number of pas¬ 
sages amounts to 16,000, 20 to 50 ft. 
high and 12 broad, and a large part are 
now rarely explored. They are sup¬ 
posed to have been first worked by the 
Romans. The galleries, running gene¬ 
rally at right angles, and lined by many 
thousand massive pillars, 40 ft. square, 
left by the excavators to support the roof, 
cross and intersect each other so as to 
render it exceedingly difficult to find 
the way out; and it is dangerous to 
enter this singular labyrinth without a 
guide. Many lives have been lost from 
the want of this precaution; among 
others, 4 Recollet monks perished in 
1640, in attempting to form a her¬ 
mitage in a remote spot. They had 
provided themselves with a clue, 
which they fastened near the entrance, 
but the thread on which they de¬ 
pended broke. In 1868 a young 
man was lost in the quarries. The 
only persons competent to conduct 
strangers through the maze are a few 
experienced labourers who have spent 
a large portion of their lives in these 
caverns, and who assist their memory 
by marks made on the pillars and sides. 
In time of war the peasantry of the 
surrounding country have frequently 
sought refuge in the caves, along with 
their flocks and herds. The rock is a 
soft yellowish calcareous sandstone, not 
unlike chalk, and of the same geological 
age. It is cut out with a saw, and is 
used for building, but is ill adapted for 
the purpose, being much affected by 
the atmosphere ; it does not make good 
lime, but when reduced to sand is very 
serviceable as manure for the fields. It 
abounds in marine fossil remains. Be¬ 
sides shells and crabs, large turtles are 
found in it, together with the bones of 
a gigantic lizard-like reptile, more than 
20 ft. long, called the fossil Monitor. 


The caverns are very cold, but are re¬ 
markably free from all moisture, and 
hence their temperature scarcely ever 
varies. 

Maeseyck, a town of 4250 Inhab. 
About 12 m. below this, on the rt. 
bank of the Maas, is the birthplace of 
the painters Van Eyck. Statues of 
these famous artists were set up 1864. 

Steamers daily to Liege, in 2 hrs. 
(Rte. 24):—to Rotterdam, stopping for 
the night at Yenloo. Not far from 
this is Ruremonde. (Rte. 13). 

Railways to Lidge (Rte. 24); 4 trains 
daily in 1 hr.; to Venloo, Ruremonde, 
Eyndhoven, and Antwerp (Rte. 13). 

Railway from Maestricht to Aix-la• 
Chapelle. Station at Wyck, on rt. bank 
of the Meuse. 22 Eng. m., 3 trains 
daily. Bridge over the Meuse. 

6 Meersen Stat. 

5 Valkenburg Stat. (Fr. Fauque- 
mont), Dutch frontier. 

7 Wylre Stat. 

7 Simpelveld Stat. Prussian Cus¬ 
tom-house. 

11 Aix-la-Chapelle Stat. (Rte. 36). 





Belgium. 


ROUTE 28. —CALAIS TO COLOGNE. VALENCIENNES. 197 


ROUTE 28. 

CALAIS TO COLOGNE, BY LILLE, DOUAI, 

VALENCIENNES, QUIEVRAIN, MANAGE, 

CHARLEROI, NAMUR.—RAILWAY. 

The most direct and quickest way 
from London to the Rhine is by 
the express train from Calais, by 
Toumay and Enghien, to Brussels 
(Rte. 15). The traveller must there 
change his train and proceed from the 
Stat. du Midi to the Stat. du Nord 
(some distance off), whence the Co¬ 
logne train starts. 

The following route, though now 
little used in extenso, runs through 
places not elsewhere mentioned in 
this Handbook, and through an inte¬ 
resting district on either side of Char¬ 
leroi. 

Calais to Lille. See Rte. 15. 

12 Seclin Stat. 

8 Carvin Stat. 

6 Leforest Stat. 

7 Douai Stat. (Inns: II. de Flandres 
—du Commerce) is a town of 20,000 
Inhab., surrounded by old fortifications, 
seated on the Scarpe, defended by a 
detached fort about 1^ m. distant on the 
1. hank. Here is a I st-class Arsenal of 
construction, and one of the 3 great 
cannon-foundries of France. It is the 
least thriving place in the Dept, du 
Nord; and though it covers more ground 
than Lille, does not contain half as 
many inhab. Like the Flemish towns, 
it has a picturesque Beffroi close to its 
market-place, rising above the Gothic 
Hotel de Ville, built at the end of the 
15th cent. In an old Jesuits’ convent, 
near the Place St. Jacques (not far 
from the Stat.), are :—1. The Public 
Library , 35,000 vols., besides near 1000 
MSS. from suppressed convents, includ¬ 
ing the English and Scotch convents 
at Douai; 2. a Museum of Antiquities 
(old records of the family de Lalaing, 
&c.) and Pictures (old Flemish school, 
&c.). In the Ch. of Notre Dame is a 
very remarkable early Flemish altar- 
piecc (by an unknown artist), consisting 


of a variety of subjects—the Trinity, the 
Virgin, Saints, &c., with figures innu¬ 
merable : it well deserves notice. 

The Artillery Barrack aux Grands 
Anglais (close to the Rly. Stat.) w r as 
originally the English College, or semi¬ 
nary, founded in 1569 by an English¬ 
man, Cardinal Allen, to educate Roman 
Cath. priests for England and Ireland. 
There were other English, Scotch, 
and Irish seminaries here, one alone 
of which (the Benedictines) remains. 
O’Connell studied here. There is a con¬ 
siderable trade in flax here. 

Every year, in the early part of July, a 
procession parades the streets of Douai, 
consisting of a giant of osier, called 
Geant Gayant, dressed in armour, 30 ft. 
high, attended by his wife and family, 
of proportionate size; the giant doll is 
moved by 8 men enclosed within it. 

8 Montigny Stat 

7 Somain Stat. 

9 Wallers Stat. 

6 Raismes Stat. 


Hence a branch 
line to Anzin 
coal-mines. 


5 Valenciennes Junct. Stat. ( Inns : 
La Poste;—H. des Princes, very good, 
comfortable, and well furnished; — 
H. du Commerce), a fortress of the 
second class, with a strong citadel 
constructed by Vauban, is an 'ill-built 
town, lying on the Schelde, and has 
a population of 22,000 souls. In 1793 
it was taken by the Allies, under 
the Duke of York and General Aber- 
cromby, after a siege of 84 days and 
a severe bombardment, which destroyed 
a part of the town: it was yielded 
back next year. In the grand square, 
or Place d’Armes, are situated the 
Theatre and the Hotel de Ville, a fine 
building, half Gothic half Italian in 
style, built 1612, and containing 3 pic¬ 
tures by Rubens, brought from the 
Abbey of St. Amand les Eaux; St. 
Stephen preaching; a Banker, by Q. 
Matsys, &c.; the Beffroi, 170 ft. high, 
built 1237, fell 1843, and caused a 
serious loss of life. The Church of St. 
Gery is the principal one. The cele¬ 
brated Valenciennes lace is manufac¬ 
tured here, and a considerable quantity 
of fine cambric. This is the birthplace 
of Watteau, the painter; of Froissart, 
the historian (his statue is in the Place 








198 ROUTE 28. —CALAIS TO 

St. Gery); and of tlie minister D’Ar- 
genson. 

At Bavay (Bavacum Nerviorum) is 
a Roman Circus and other remains. At 
St. Amand des Eaux are ruins of a 
Benedictine Abbey and a fine church. 

For the railway hence to Brussels, 
see Rte. 32. 

Blanc-Misseron. French Douane. 

Quievrain Stat. (Buffet), Belgian 
custom-house. 

2 Boussu Stat. In the fine Church 
surmounted by a spire is the chantry 
of the family of Henin, lords of Boussu, 
and a monument in alabaster of Jean 
de H. and his lady. The chateau be¬ 
longs to the Marquis de Caraman. 

4 Thulin Stat. 

5 Saint Ghislain Stat. Near this is 
Hornu , a mining village of 5448 In- 
hab., founded by the late M. Dcgorge 
Legrand. It is occupied principally by 
miners and iron-forgers, who are main¬ 
tained by the mines of coal and iron 
here. Steam-engines are manufactured 
to a considerable extent here. The 
village is built with straight streets on 
a uniform plan, the houses being of 
the same height, around 2 squares, in 
the centre of one of which is the steam- 
engine which drains the mine and 
supplies the houses with hot and cold 
water. This country resembles much 
the neighbourhood of Manchester and 
Bolton : the roads are black with coal- 
dust, which in windy weather begrimes 
the face and garments of the traveller, 
and the dwellings partake of the same 
hue. Every cottage seems as populous 
as a hive. 

4 Jemappes Stat. This village is 
celebrated for the victory gained by 
50,000 French, under Gen. Dumouriez 
and the Duke de Chartres, afterwards 
King Louis-Philippe, 6th Nov. 1792, 
over 22,000 Austrians. Three coalpits 
were filled with dead bodies of men and 
horses after the battle. The result of 
this victory was to make the French 
masters of Belgium. A stone has been 
set up close to the post-road to mark 
the scene of the battle. 

Mons Stat. (Rte. 32). 4 trains run 
daily, in 1} hr., to Manage. 15£ 
Eng. m. 


COLOGNE. CHARLEROI. Sect. II. 

Nimy Stat. 

Obourg Stat. 

Havre Stat. 

Bracquegnies Stat. Branch line to 
Bascoup. 

9^ La Louviere Stat. 

Manage Junction Stat. Branch lines 
to Brussels by Hal; to Wavre by 
Nivelles. The Canal de Charleroi is 
crossed. There are coal-mines near 
this. 

On the Wavre Ely. 1. lies Seneffe , 
where the Prince of Orange (Wil¬ 
liam III.), scarce 24, ventured to mea¬ 
sure his strength (1674) with the veteran 
Conde. It ended in a drawn battle, 
with 27,000 dead left on the field! 

7 Gouy-lez-Pieton Stat. 

3 Pont-a-Celles Stat. 

2 Luttre Stat. 

5 Gosselies Stat., a picturesque town 
(1.) on a height; 6108 Inhab. 

The railway cuts through several 
beds of coal. 

3 Roux Stat. Coal-pits and tramways. 

The most interesting portion of the 

route lies near 

3 Marchiennes-au-Pont (Stat.) on the 
Sambre, Pop. 4500. The country is 
picturesque, and enlivened by manu¬ 
factories, chimneys, iron-works, fur¬ 
naces, coal-mines, and villages. 

The Brussels and Charleroi canal 
runs parallel with the railway, and 
enters the Sambre, which it joins to the 
Schelde, 2 m. above Charleroi. 

The railway crosses the Sambre 16 
times before reaching Namur. 

4 Charleroi Junction Stat. Inns: 
II. de L’Uni vers, clean; H. Dourin, not 
good. Charleroi is a fortress on the 
Sambre, originally foimded by the 
Marquis of Castel Rodrigo, governor 
of the Low Countries, 1666, and named 
after Charles II. of Spain; its walls 
were razed 1795, and restored 1816, 
under the direction of the Duke 
of Wellington. It has 13,000 Inhab. 
The upper part of the town is con¬ 
fined within ramparts. The lower and 
better town, outside the fortification 
is the nucleus of a flourishing 
manufacturing district, almost de¬ 
serving the name of one vast town, 
though covering an area of many 

I miles, whose industry is fed by the 




Belgium. ROUTE 28 A.—CHARLEROI TO VIRIEUX. 199 


productive coal-field, the largest in 
Belgium, and of which it is the centre. 
In the vicinity about 6000 nail-makers 
ply their trade, and there are said to he 
70 high furnaces, 50 iron foundries, and 
90 coal-pits. The Glassworks are the 
largest in Belgium. There are exten¬ 
sive iron furnaces at Couliers, near this. 
8345 miners and 118 steam-engines are 
employed in the collieries. 3 different 
railways, a system of canalisation, 
besides the river Sambre, contribute 
to distribute the productions of its in¬ 
dustry. The Sambre and Meuse Railway 
branches S. from Charleroi. (Etc. 
28a.) 

Here were Napoleon’s head-quarters 
on the night of June 15. He conversed 
with Ney until 2 a.m. of the 16th, and 
did not stir till 7 a.m. 


Railways. —To Brussels, by Ottig- 
nies ; to Brussels, by Braine le Comte; 
to Paris, by Givet; to Paris, through 
Maubeuge and St. Quentin. Trains in 
8 hrs.; or express 6f hrs. (Ete. 33.) 

Diligence to Binche and Fontaine 
l’Eveque. The battle-fields of Ligny 
and Fleurus are not far off. 

Charleroi to Namur , 36 kil., 9 trains 
daily, in 40 to 70 min. 


From Charleroi 
to Namur the 


. Chatelincau StatJ 
Ironworks. 

3 Farciennes Stat. {railway descends 

5 Tamincs Stat. the beautiful val- 

2 Auvelais Stat. ley of the Sam- 

6 Moustier Stat. bre. 

5 Floreffe Stat. The village, of 1500 
Inhab., stands on the rt. bank of the 
Sambre. On a commanding height 
above rises the picturesque Abbey of 
Floreffe, founded by Godfrey Count of 
Namur, 1121. It is now a seminary 
for priests. The cloisters and hall of 
the Counts of Namur are worth notice. 
On the 1., in a woody gorge, lies the 
Abbey of Malonne, and further on the 
1. the new ch. of Beausse. The wind¬ 
ing Sambre is frequently crossed. 


ROUTE 28 a. 


CHARLEROI TO VIRIEUX AND GIVET.— 
SAMBRE AND MEUSE RAILWAY. 


Length of trunk line about 42 Eng. m. 

This railway turns off from the Brus¬ 
sels and Namur Bailway between Char¬ 
leroi and Marchiennes-au-Pont. It 
passes through the richest mineral dis¬ 
trict in Belgium, and has a great traffic 
in coal, coke, iron, and zinc ore. It 
connects the valley of the Sambre at 
Charleroi (described Ete. 28) with that 
of the Meuse, a few miles above 
Givet. 

3 La Sambre Stat. (Marchiennes.) 

13f Hameau Stat. 

18£ Berzee Junct. Stat. (Here a 
branch railway turns off by 3 Thy-le- 
Chateau Stat. to 5 Laneffe Stat.) 

21-J Walcourt Junct. Stat. Here is 
a fine 5-aisled Church, rebuilt 1317 ; the 
W. tower Eom. 1024-27. See the 
carved stalls (Eenaiss.) with caricatures 
of monks; confessionals; rood-screen, 
1531; font; a baptistery of the 16th 
cent.; a miraculous image of the Virgin, 
to which 20,000 pilgrims resort on 
Trinity Sunday; some fine old church 
plate in the sacristy; reliquaries, 
monstrances, a throne of silver for the 
Virgin, &c. [Branch lines diverge 
to Morialme 15 kilom.; to Philippe- 
ville, Florenne; to Givet, in France 
(Ete. 30)]. 


Mezieres, 
Eheims, and 
Paris. 


> Handbook of France. 


7 Silenrieux Stat. 

6 Cerfontaine Stat. 

14 Mariembourg June. Stat. Branch 
railways to 1, Couvin; 2, Momignies, 
by Chimaz ; 3, to Givet on the Meuse : 
thence raff to Beims. 


9 Namur Junction Stat., outside the 
Porte de Fer, which leads to Louvain 
(Ete. 24). 

Liege. (Ete. 24). 
Aix-la-Ciiapelle (Ete. 36). 
Cologne Stat. 


7 Olloy Stat. 

3 Vierves Stat. Belgian custom¬ 
house. 

8 Virieux Stat., on the Meuse, French 
custom-house (H. du Chemin de Fer). 
Rail to Mezieres, Eheims, and Paris; 
and to Givet. 









200 ROUTE 29— BRUSSELS TO LUXEMBURG- AND TREVES. Sect. II. 


ROUTE 29. 

BRUSSELS TO LUXEMBURG AND TREVES, 

BY OTTIGNIES, NAMUR, AND ARLON 

[GROTTO OP HANS],—GREAT LUXEM- 
, BURG RAILWAY. 

Great Luxemburg Ely.—opened 1858 
and 1861. A very interesting route. 
It reduces the distance from Brussels 
to Namur to 35 m., instead of 68 m. 
by Braine-le-Comte. It is the best 
mode of approaching the wild and 
little-trodden district of the Ardennes 
(Rte. 31), Treves, and the Moselle, 
which may be descended from Treves. 
Terminus, Quartier Leopold. Trains 
in 6^ hrs. to Luxemburg. 

6 Boitsfort Stat., a village on the 
skirts of the Forest of Soignies. 

4 Groenendael Stat., also in the forest. * 
An hour’s drive to Mont St. Jean, 
near 

Waterloo 5 m. S. W. Omnibus meets 
the early trains (Rte. 24). rt. See the 
Lion on the field of Waterloo. 

5 La Hulpe Stat., village with 
paper-mill; near it is a seat of the 
Marquis de Bethune. 

6 Ottignies Junct. Stat. (Buffet). 
Here the lines from Louvain, Charleroi, 
Wavre, Manage, and Mons, meet the 
great Luxemburg line. 

The country becomes more undu¬ 
lating, and is, perhaps, the richest in 
Belgium. 

5 Mont St. Guibert Stat. Near this 
are ruins of an old Castle. 

1. See a low tower, said to be of 9th 
cent. Origin unknown. 

9 Gembloux Stat. The town lies in 
the hollow: it has some trade in cutlery. 
Near the Stat. is a large brick building 
■—a Benedictine convent down to 1792 
—now a School of Agriculture. Near 
this is the battle-field of Ligny. 

8 St. Denis Bovesse Stat. Near this 
iron-ore is quarried to supply the fur¬ 
naces on the Sambre and Meuse. 

4 Rhisnes Stat. 

Through several deep rock cuttings 
the Rly. approaches Namur, emerging 
on a lofty embankment into the beau¬ 
tiful valley of the Sambre, which it 


crosses, as well as the Rly. from Charle¬ 
roi. (Fine view.) 

6 Namur June. Stat. Here converge 
the Rlys. from—1. Charleroi (the State 
line); 2. from Liege (Rte. 24) ; 3. from 
Brussels and Luxemburg; 4. from Di- 
nant (Rte. 30). 

Namur is described in Rte. 24. 

The Luxemburg Rly. (to Arlon is 831 
m.) crosses the Meuse, from Namur 
Stat., on a handsome bridge of 3 timber 
arches resting on stone piers, com¬ 
manding a fine view. 

Nannine, Assesse, Natoye Stats. 

18 m. Ciney Stat., a town of 2000 
Inhab. {Inn, Poste), formerly capital of 
the Condroz (Condrusi of Csesar), or 
country between the Meuse and 
Ourthe. 9 m. on rt. lies Dinant 
(Rte. 30). A coach runs thither daily 
in 1^ hr. Charming views. 

Aye Stat. [1. 8 m. lies Marche 
{Inn, Cloche d’Or; intolerable), a pretty 
town (2340 Inhab.), which stood on the 
march, or limit, between the Duchy 
of Luxemburg and the Principality of 
Liege; it was capital of the Famenne, 
a fertile com district, named after its 
ancient inhab. the Phoemanni, men¬ 
tioned by Csesar. Here was signed, 
1577, by Don John of Austria and the 
States of the United Netherlands, the 
treaty known as the Perpetual Edict. 

rt. The country between Marche 
and St. Hubei't presents very fine forest 
scenery. This is Shakspeare’s “ Forest 
of Arden;” and so well do parts of it 
agree with his description of its wood¬ 
lands that the traveller might almost 
expect to meet the “banished duke” 
holding his sylvan court under the 
greenwood tree, or to surprise the pen¬ 
sive Jaques meditating by the side of 
the running brook.] 

Jemelle Stat. Omnibus to the Cave 
of Han sur Lesse (described Rte. 31), 
returning to catch a later train back to 
Brussels. A cave, called “ Grotte de 
la Wamme,” is exhibited here. Lime- 
quarries and kilns. 

[The omnibus takes you in 20 min. to 

rt. Rochefort, an ancient and pictu¬ 
resque town, partly surrounded by old 
walls and surmounted by a ruined Castle, 
where Lafayette was made prisoner by 




201 


ROUTE 20 . —ROdHEEORT. St. HUBERT. 


Belgium * 

the Austrians, 1792 (Inn, H. de la Sta- ' 
tion, homely, hut fair). The H. de 
Ville , finished 1865, is in the Gothic 
style, brick, with stone facings. 

Caverns abound in the whole of this 
district. One of the finest is on the 
property of M. Alphonse Collignon, 
called * Notre Dame de Lorette. It is 
most liberally shown (gratis) to stran¬ 
gers, and stairs and galleries have been 
formed by Mr. A. C., at great expense, 
to make it accessible. You descend 
from his garden to a depth of 150 ft., 
whence passages diverge, through which 
you may walk for If hr. The river 
L’ Homme may be seen from the top of 
the hill entering and emerging from 
the hillside several times after tra¬ 
versing the Grotto. Omnibus in 1 hr. 
(3 m.) from Rochefort to Han sur Lesse , 
where is the “ Grotto hung with sta¬ 
lactites. (See Rte. 31.)] 

22 Grupont Stat. The Rly. enters the 
picturesque valley of the L’Homme, and 
passes in a curve round the grand old 
Castle of Mirwart, 1., with 4 towers at 
the angles, and a donjon on the S. side. 
It was twice destroyed by the Bishops 
of Liege on account of forays on their 
territory committed by its owners. It 
belonged to the De la Marcks. 

Poix Stat. [1. Diligence to the Abbey 
of St. Hubert. 4^ m. 

St. Hubert (Inn, H. de Luxembourg, 
poor), a miserable town of 2550 In- 
hab., originally planted in the midst 
of the grand forest of St. Hubert, now 
cleared. The Abbey Church is in the 
Lancet-Gothic style of the 14th cent., 
defaced by an Italian W. front, date 
1702. It has 5 aisles, vaulted through¬ 
out ; the choir ends in a chevet, and is 
considerably raised above a crypt of 
older date: it is internally adorned 
with precious marbles. St. Hubert, 
the patron of hunters and sportsmen, 
was born about 656, of princely rank, 
and a kinsman of Pepin d’Herstal, 
the founder of the Abbey. He was 
guilty of the profane act of hunting 
on the holy fast of Good Friday. 
But, while engaged in his favourite 
diversion on that day, a stag sud¬ 
denly presented itself to him, bearing 


a cross growing between its horns. 
The apparition, which he believed to bo 
miraculous, and to be sent from heaven, 
recalled him from his evil mode of life. 
Renouncing the world and its plea¬ 
sures, he passed the rest of his days 
in penance and prayer; and, devoting 
his fortune to the Church, acquired such 
a degree of sanctity as to work miracles, 
not merely by his hands, but by his 
garments; so that even a shred of his 
mantle possesses virtue to cure mad¬ 
ness and hydrophobia, if placed on the 
patient’s head: the consequence was 
an immense resort of pilgrims, conti¬ 
nued to the present day, and great 
influx of wealth. The body of St. 
Hubert was deposited in the abbey, 
825, but is supposed to have been 
burnt in the conflagration caused by 
the French Calvinists, 1568. Never¬ 
theless a handsome altar-tomb, with 8 
bas-reliefs of events from his life, and 
a reclining effigy in marble—one of 
the finest works of W. Geefs —was 
erected 1850 by King Leopold I. In the 
Tre'sor is the Saint’s miracle-working 
Stole, the application of which still 
cures about 100 patients in a year, 
and other relics — his horn, crozier, 
and comb. On the Feast of St. Hubert 
(Nov. 3), dogs are brought from far 
and near, and specially packs of hounds, 
to be sprinkled by the priests, in the 
chapel of the saint. (See ‘ Quentin Dur- 
ward.’) The remaining Convent build¬ 
ings are now occupied as a governmental 
Reformatory 

Longlier Stat. 1. about 1 m. lies Neuf- 
chateau, an uninteresting town of 1800 
Inhab., a market for cattle and grain, 
near which are large slate quarries. 
Diligence in 5 hrs. to the Castle of 
Bouillon , 10 m. W. (See Rte. 31.) 

43i Arlon Junct. Stat. (Inns: H. du 
Nord, clean;—H. Schneider)—a rapidly 
increasing town of 5700 Inhab., sup¬ 
posed to be the Roman Orolanum. 
By the partition of the Duchy of Lux¬ 
emburg, in conformity with the Treaty 
of 1831, two-thirds of it have fallen 
to the share of King Leopold, and Ar¬ 
lon is become the capital of the Belgian 
part of the province. Fine view from 
the terrace of the Capucin convent. 

Diligences down the valley of the 

K 3 








202 


ftoUTE 29.— Luxemburg}. 


Scmoi to Etalee (Etc. 31) ; to Liege ; 
to Spa. 

Railways to Longwy; to Luxemburg. 

Sterpenick Stat. 

Tke Dutch frontier commences at 
Eettingen Stat. From Arlon to tke 
frontier German is tke language of tke 
inkabitants. 

Bertrange Stat. 

3f Luxemburg Junct. Stat. (Buffet, 
20 min. kalt —Inns (none good): H. 
do Cologne, bad smell; H. de Lux¬ 
emburg; H. de l’Europe), a strong 
fortress witk 12,100 Inkab., dis¬ 
mantled, pursuant to Treaty, 1867, up 
to which time it was garrisoned by 
6000 Prussians, for tke German Con¬ 
federation, is capital of a ducky be¬ 
longing to Holland. It will well repay 
a kalt of several kours. A carriage to 
drive about it (2 hrs.) costs 10 fr. Tke 
situation of Luxemburg is very sin¬ 
gular, and kigkly picturesque; it kas 
been compared with tkat of Jerusalem. 
Tke traveller from tke side of Brussels 
comes upon it unawares, so completely 
is it wedged in between kigk escarped 
rocks. Tke ramparts on tke N.E. side 
kave been removed, and it is now an 
open town, in conformity witk tke 
Treaty of London. Tke upper town 
occupies tke top of a rocky peninsula, 
joined to tke neigkbouring country 
only on tke W. On tke other 2 sides 
it is isolated by rocky gorges 200 ft. 
deep, crossed by lofty rly. viaducts, 
and watered by tke streams of Peters- 
burn and Alzette, in wkose depths tke 
industrious lower town, or suburbs of 
Grund, Clausen, and Pfaffentkal (witk 
mills and dye-works), nestle. On en¬ 
tering from tke German side it is diffi¬ 
cult to comprekend kow these are to 
be surmounted, or tke drawbridges 
reached, wkick appear to hang sus¬ 
pended in tke air. Tke communication 
between the upper and lower towns 
is by flights of steps, and by streets 
carried up in zigzags, so as to be 
passable for a carriage. Tke defences, 
partly excavated in tke solid rock, were 
increased and improved by tke successive 
possessors of Luxemburg, by tke Spa¬ 
niards (1697), Austrians (1713), French 
(1684 and 1795), and Dutck, rendering 


Sect. ii. 

it, in tke words of Carnot, “ la plus 
forte place de 1’Europe apres Gibraltar : 
—le seul point d’appui pour attaquer 
la France du cote de la Moselle.” 
Tke most remarkable part of tke forti¬ 
fications is tkat called Le Bouc , a pro¬ 
jecting headland of rock, hollowed 
out, and commanding witk its loop¬ 
holes and embrasures tke 2 valleys 
wkick it separates up and down. Its 
casemates in 3 stories, one above tke 
otker, entirely excavated in tke solid 
rock, were capable of holding 4000 men, 
and resemble those of Gibraltar. It is 
divided into 3 parts by 2 deep ditches, 
and is mined in all directions. From 
tke Schlossbrilcke , which connects it 
witk tke upper town, there is a striking 
view. Tke road to Treves descends 
from this in zigzags. Otker good 
points of view are the Garden of the 
Military Casino , Fontaines Garden out¬ 
side tke New Gate, and tke Fetschenhof 
at tke Treves Gate. 

Tke Grand Ducky of Luxemburg was 
given to the King of Holland, at tke 
Treaty of Vienna (1815), in considera¬ 
tion of kis abandoning kis claim upon 
Nassau. It kas been always muck 
coveted by France, especially after tke 
battle of Sadowa and tke dissolution of 
the German Confederation, 1867. The 
Treaty of London, May, 1868, rendered 
it an independent and neutral state. Tke 
House of Luxemburg is highly dis¬ 
tinguished in history; it gave 5 em¬ 
perors to Germany, kings to Bohemia, 
Poland, and Hungary, several queens 
to France, and numerous exalted pre¬ 
lates to tke church. 

Tke Ch. of Ndtre Dame was built by 
the Jesuits in tke 16th cent. It corn 
tains a miracle-working image of tke 
Virgin. Here is tke mausoleum of 
Jokn tke Blind, King of Bohemia, killed 
by tke English at the battle of Cressy, 
from whom our Prince of "Wales gains 
kis motto (Ick dien). He was buried 
here; but kis body, having been 6 times 
removed, and at tke French Devolu¬ 
tion transferred to a museum, was at 
length confided to tke King of Prussia, 
and by him deposited in a grave at 
Castcl on the Sarre, in Prussia. 

Tke modern Jesuits? Church deserves 




203 


Belgium. Route 30. —NAMUR to dinant. 


notice for its carved woodwork pulpit 
and painted windows. 

In the lower town is a Gateway , sole 
relic of the palace of the Spanish Stadt- 
holder, Count Peter Ernest of Mansfeldt 
(1545-1604). 

The two sides of the gorge of the 
Alzette are now united by the grand 
Viaduct of the Treves Illy., which 
passes astride the suburb of Grand. 
The Petrus Viaduct connects the Ely. 
Stat. with the upper town. A walk 
through the valley called Pulvermiihlen 
Thai , through the Porte de Eisse, will 
well repay the traveller. 

Railways .—To Treves; to Namur; to 
Thionville and Metz; to Diekirch 
(22 m.); and to Spa (Rte. 33a) ; car¬ 
ried across the valley on a colossal 
viaduct. 

From Oetringen Stat. the rly. follows 
for some distance the course of the 
river Sure as far as its junction with 
the Moselle at 

"Wasserbillig Stat. The Prussian 
frontier is crossed at the bridge over 
the Sure, close to which is the custom¬ 
house. (§ 46.) 

6 m. above Treves the road passes 
the very remarkable Roman monument 
of Igel , described in Ete. 41. The 
village stands opposite to the junction 
of the Saar (Savarus) with the Moselle. 
Conz , a village near its mouth, derives 
its name from the Emperor Constantine, 
who had a summer palace here, traces 
of which still exist in the foundations of 
brick walls, towers, &c. The Roman 
bridge over the Saar was blown up by 
the French, 1675. Conz is likely to 
become a strong Prussian fortress, or 
the centre of a fortified camp, to supply 
the place of the abandoned Luxemburg 
on the French frontier of Prussia. 

Conz Junct. Stat., where the Ely. from 
Saarburg, Saarbruck, and Saarlouis falls 
in. 

2 Treves, Terminus near the bridge 
(Rte. 41), on 1. bank of the Moselle. 


ROUTE 30. ' 

NAMUR TO DINANT AND GIVET—THE 
MEUSE.—RAIL. 

Railway, about 30 Eng. m. 4 trains 
daily, 1^ to 2 hrs. Steamer , slow and 
dirty, daily in summer, from Dinant to 
Narnirr, in 2 hrs., returning in 3 hrs. 

The Meuse above Namur is not less 
interesting, though less visited, than 
below it. For a considerable distance 
the river is hemmed in by magnificent 
escarpments of limestone, resembling in 
height and form the banks of the Avon 
at Clifton, and the vales of Derbyshire. 
The cultivation of the graceful hop 
here supplants that of the vine. The 
road ascends the 1. bank as far as Di¬ 
nant, where it crosses the river by a 
stone bridge. Several villas and pretty 
chateaux are passed. 

Jambes Stat. Lustin Stat. Godinne 
Stat. 

(rt.) Between 2 and 3 m. below Di¬ 
nant rises the Castle of Poilvache (i.e. 
Pille-vache, its owners being foragers 
of cattle), once “ la terreur des Dinan- 
tois,” now in ruins, of great extent, 
and finely situated. It was taken and 
destroyed by Bp. Jean de Heynsberg, 
1429. * 

1. Upon the top of a rock, m. be¬ 
low Dinant, stands the old town of 
Bouvignes. During the siege of this 
place by the French under the Due de 
Nevers (1554) 3 beautiful women re¬ 
tired with their husbands into the Castle 
of Crevecceur, hoping to assist and en¬ 
courage the garrison by their presence. 
The defence was obstinate, but at last 
all were slain but the 3 heroines, 
who, unwilling to submit to the bru¬ 
tality of the conquerors, threw them¬ 
selves from the top of the tower, in sight 
of the French, and were dashed to 
pieces on the rocks. 

Yvoir Stat. 

rt. Dinant Stat. [Inns, none have 
any view : Post kept by Degree 
Franqois is best; Tete d’Or), a 
town of 7266 Inhab., romantically 










204 


ftOUTE 30. —DINANT, 


Sect. II. 


situated at the base of limestone 
cliffs, to which the fortifications and 
the chapel on their summit add in¬ 
terest. There are caverns in the con¬ 
torted convolutions of the limestone 
strata. Winding stairs, cut in the rock, 
render the cliffs accessible from terrace 
to terrace nearly up to the walls of the 
fortress. The pretty walks behind the 
Casino are readily opened to strangers. 
Permission to enter the citadel is also 
given. The Church is distinguished by 
a singular bulb-shaped steeple: its in¬ 
terior is interesting, chiefly firstPointed, 
and good. The door of the baptistery, 
and another which is blocked up, are 
of the 10th or 11th cent. 

Dinant was the birthplace of Wiertz, 
the eccentric painter. 

Excellent trout and pike fishing may 
he had here. 

The inhabitants of Bouvigne were 
rivals of those of Dinant in the manu¬ 
facture of articles of brass and copper, 
kettles, &c. (called from the place dinan- 
deries ), and the animosity thus created 
led to bloody and long-continued feuds 
between them. In defiance of their 
neighbours, the men of Bouvigne built 
the castle of Crevecoeur, and those of 
Dinant, to annoy them in return, erected 
that of Montorgueil, which they were 
afterwards compelled to destroy. 

Philip the Good, irritated by some act 
of aggression, besieged Dinant with an 
army of 30,000 men. The inhabitants, 
when summoned to surrender, replied 
by hanging the messengers sent with 
the proposals. The Duke, enraged at this 
outrage, was preparing to take the town 
by assault, when it surrendered. He 
gave it up to pillage for 3 days, and 
then set fire to it; and while the flames 
were still raging, ordered 800 of the 
inhabitants, bound two and two, to be 
thrown into the Meuse. Though weak 
from illness, he was carried in a litter 
to a spot whence he could feast his eyes 
on the conflagration and horrible exe¬ 
cution ; and, not satisfied with this act 
of vengeance, he sent workmen to pull 
down the ruined walls after the fire, 
that not a vestige of Dinant might 
remain. His son, Charles the Bold, 
who succeeded 3 years after, allowed 
the town to be rebuilt; but it was 


again sacked, burnt, and demolished, 
in 1554, by the French under the Due 
de Nevers, — a misfortune occasioned 
principally by the insolence of the 
townspeople in replying to the summons 
to surrender by a message to the effect 
that, if the Duke and the King of France 
fell into their hands, they would roast 
their hearts and livers for breakfast. 

Omnibus to Ciney Stat. on the 
Luxemburg Ely. (Ete. 29). 

Excursions from Dinant: a. to the 
grotto of Han sur Lesse, a dull drive of 
4 hrs., described in Ete. 31: carriage 
and pair furnished by Degree costs 
25 frs. and pourboire to driver;—6. to the 
ruined Castle of Montaigle , near Som- 
miere, 1. side of Meuse, beautifuBy 
situated in the rocky valley (5 m.) of the 
Floye : from Montaigle you may walk 
down the picturesque vale of the Sausaye 
to the ruined Castle of Poilvache;— c. 
to the Chateau de Walzins, upon the 
Lesse (Ete. 31);— d. to Chaleux, a 
group of hovels, where some extra¬ 
ordinary rocks rise above the Lesse, 
projecting like spires, and one, LaChan- 
delle, like a pillar from the face of the 
rock. 

About -^m. above Dinant the highroad 
goes through a kind of natural portal, 
formed by the abrupt termination of a 
long narrow ridge or wall of rock, pro¬ 
jecting from the precipitous cliffs on 
the 1., and on the rt. by a pointed and 
bold isolated mass of rock, called the 
* Roche a Bayard , from the horse of the 
Quatre Fils d’Avmon, who left the 
print of his hoof on the rock, when he 
plunged into the Ardenne forest in 
search of his masters. The cleft was 
widened by order of Louis XIY., to 
facilitate the passage of the road up 
the valley. Near this are quarries of 
black marble. Immediately above lies 
Anseremme, a pretty town with over¬ 
hanging cliffs. Here the Lesse falls 
into the Meuse; its rocky valley is 
very picturesque and well deserves to 
he explored. The Lesse descends, 400 
ft. from the Trou de Han, in a series of 
falls (‘ailed Buttes. 

“ The finest point on the road to Givet 
is about 3 m. above Dinant, at the Cha¬ 
teau of Freyr , a country seat belonging 
to the family de Beaufort-Spontin, on 



205 


llOtrTE 31. —TllE ALfrENNES. 


Belgium » 

1. bank of the river, at the base of cliffs 
and richly-wooded hills, which are fur¬ 
rowed by ravines. Within the grounds 
is a natural grotto, abounding in stalac¬ 
tites, and singularly lighted by an 
aperture in the rock. Here a Treaty of 
Commerce was signed between Louis 
XIV. and Charles II. of Spain, 1675. 
Opposite to Freyr the cliffs of limestone 
rise directly from the Meuse, much 
broken up, presenting striking forms 
and outlines; occasionally the upper 
part of the rock projects beyond the per¬ 
pendicular, so as completely to overhang 
the river. The banks present lofty 
cliffs and romantic scenery as far as 
Flamignoul. The view of Givet from 
the top of the hill, surmounted by the 
road in approaching it, is very pic¬ 
turesque ; the fortifications and wind¬ 
ings of the river appear to great advan¬ 
tage.”— T. T. 

There is a Cave here, anciently dedi¬ 
cated to the Goddess Freya , the Venus 
of the North. 

Rail , Dinant to Givet —4 trains, in 
35 min. The line runs at a distance 
from the Meuse. 

At Hastier es St at. is the 12 th cent. 
Church of a ruined abbey, containing 2 
miracle-working Virgins! To see the 
fine scenery of the Meuse, you ought 
to take a punt at one of the neighbour¬ 
ing hamlets, and float down to Dinant. 
It is lost to those who run by road or 
rail. 

Agimont Stat. 

21 kil. Givet Junct. Stat.—Inns: Le 
Mont d’Or; good beer. — Givet and 
Charlemont may be regarded as parts 
of one town, prettily situated on oppo¬ 
site banks of the Meuse, but connected 
by a bridge. They belong to France, 
lying just within the frontier : the po¬ 
pulation is 4000: the fortifications 
were constructed by Vauban. Here is 
a statue of Mehul, the composer, h. 
here, 1763, d. 1818. The fortress of 
Charlemont (on the 1. bank) is placed 
on a high and commanding rock of 
limestone, which is sometimes of so 
fine a texture as to be quarried for 
marble. (See Handbook for France.) 

Railways —to Charleville, Reims, and 
Paris ; to Charleroi by Virieux and by 
Morialme. 


ROUTE 31. 

THE ARDENNES.—DINANT TO HAN SUR 
LESSE, ST. HUBERT, AND BOUILLON. 

From Namur up the valley of the 
Meuse by rail or steamer (Rte. 30) to 
Dinant. The carriage road thence 
crosses a dreary upland country; the 
pedestrian may ascend the valley of 
the Lesse —which flows in a series 
of step-like falls called Buttes, by 
Chateau de Walzens (Valsain), Chaleux 
(Chalais), where the rocks assume the 
forms of obelisks and spires. The high 
road continues through Celles, where 
is a curious and well-preserved Church 
of the 11th cent., with W. tower and 
octagon spire; beneath are crypts. 
Ardenne, a simple villa (or hunting- 
seat) of King Leopold, situated on 
the slope of a charming valley. Be¬ 
yond Almars, at Avenaye, travellers 
turn aside if they intend to visit the 
cavern called Trou de Han , about 20 
m. S.E. from Dinant (3^ hrs.’ drive; a 
carriage to and fro costs 25 fr.). The 
excursion occupies a day going and 
returning from Dinant. 

Han sur Lesse ( Inn: H. de la Grotte, 
kept by Lefebure-Vigneron, who 
speaks English, and is very oblig¬ 
ing). The Grotte-de-Han cannot well 
be approached with a carriage, and 
is 21 minutes’ sharp walking distant 
from the hotel across a deserted grey- 
limestone country. The youth Hya- 
cinthe Lannoy will be found an intel¬ 
ligent guide through the Grotto, and 
will consider himself well paid with 
2 frs. He will prepare his straw-torches 
and enter the grotto at the near 
end, and meet you at the remote en¬ 
trance, which it is quite impossible 
for a stranger to find by himself. The 
guide accordingly will sen<j. a boy 



KTE. 31. —DMANT TO BAN STIR LESSE. BOUILLOS. Sect. It. 


206 

to show the way. The several cham¬ 
bers are illuminated by the guide with 
the straw-torches, which he has pre¬ 
viously deposited along the route. This 
produces some fine scenes, hut it is 
having the effect of blackening the 
choicest spots with smoke and destroy¬ 
ing the transparency of the stalactites. 
The river Lesse is crossed in a boat, in 
the grotto near the exit, and the effect 
there of the daylight breaking in 
through the mouth of the grotto is 
superb. No preparation of dress is 
necessary, as the paths are broad and 
only slightly muddy. The distance 
from the entrance of the grotto to the 
other mouth is about l^m. The charge 
for admission into the grotto is 5 frs. 
apiece, if the party he 4 or upwards in 
number, and 7 frs. apiece if the party 
he less than four. The Baron Despandt, 
on whose property the grotto is situ¬ 
ated, is said to derive from this source 
an income of 16,000 francs a year. At 
the mouth of the cavern an offer of 
Madeira is made at ^ fr. per glass. The 
passage of the cavern may he made in 
1 hr. in haste, hut it is usual to spend 
nearly 2 hrs. upon it. Carriage and pair 
from Rochefort and hack 10 francs. 

A cross-road leads from Han sur L., 
by Wavrulle, Grupont, and Bure, a dis¬ 
tance of 12 or 15 m., to 

St. Hubert. Rte. 29. 

There are cross-roads from St. Hu¬ 
bert to Poix station on the railroad 
from Namur to Luxemburg (Rte. 29); 
thence by Lihin, Villance, and Paliseul 
to Bouillon is about 25 m. $ road unin¬ 
teresting. 

Bouillon ( Inns: Poste, very good; 
charges fair: D* 2 fr., Br. 1 fr. H. du 
Nord, homely, hut comfortable. This 
is a very interesting and picturesque 
town of 2500 Inhab.; it is beautifully 
situated at the bottom of a long 
valley washed by the Semoi, which 
winds round a rocky promontory 
crowned by the extensive Castle of Bouil¬ 
lon, repaired and restored since 1827, 
and converted into a military prison. 
It will well repay a visit, being nearly 
as much an excavation^ as a building. 
The dungeons are hewn out of the 


rock. A recess cut in the rock is 
called the “ Chair of Godfrey de Bouil¬ 
lon.” There is a spring near the top of 
the rock, and a well descending to the 
level of the Semoi. 2 bridges connect the 
ancient walled town with the modern 
town. The walks in the woods around 
the town are very pleasing. The 
best view of Bouillon is from the 
Florenville road. 

Bouillon, once capital of the duchy of 
the same name, was pawned by Godfrey 
of Bouillon to the Bishop of Liege, to 
raise funds for the first Crusade. In 
after times the bishops refused to allow 
it to be redeemed, which gave rise to 
a long series of feuds and fights be¬ 
tween them and Godfrey’s successors 
so that the territory of Bouillon became 
truly debateable ground. At length 
Louis XIY. directed Marechal Crequi 
to take possession of the town, “ not,” 
says his published declaration, “ for the 
purpose of prejudicing the Bishops of 
Liege, hut for the protection of France, 
which is not sufficiently fortified in that 
quarter.” Louis, having thus realised 
the fable of the Oyster, protested, be¬ 
fore the Congress of Nijmegen, that he 
was prepared to resign the province as 
soon as the umpires had decided to 
which of the contending parties it ought 
to belong. The dispute, however, was 
never settled, and the House of La 
Tour d’Auvergne assumed the sove¬ 
reignty and title of Dukes of Bouillon, 
with the consent of Louis (1696). The 
town was ceded to the Netherlands by 
the Treaty of Vienna. 

Diligence daily to Lihramont and 
Longlier Stats. 

It is 15 m. by Hcrbeumont and 
Aignan, above which is fine rocky 
scenery, from Bouillon to Florenville. 
Inn: H. du Commerce; good and com¬ 
fortable quarters ; landlady English. 
2000 Inhab. 

5 m. from Florenville is the mined 
Abbey d’Orval , destroyed by the French 
army under Loison, who spent 10 days 
on its pillage in 17 94. The remains are 
not of great architectural interest, but 
are extensive, and their situation very 
pleasing. They stand close to the 



Belgium. route 32 . —Brussels to baris. Hal. 207 


Frcnch frontier, in a narrow secluded 
dell, overgrown with brushwood and 
trees, skirted on the W. by a beech 
forest. It is enclosed by a range of 
terraces, which on E. and AV. rise into 
tiers one above the other, 20 to 30 ft. 
wide, each about | of a mile long. 
The boundary wall, 20 ft. high, is still 
perfect. The key must he got from 
a cabaret ^ m. distant from * the 
ruins; charge \ fr. On one of the 
highest terraces to the AV. stands 
the original Romanesque Chapel. The 
Church , a later specimen of the same 
style, not large, and plain, with a rose 
window in the S. transept, stands on a 
level with the conventual buildings. 
The Kitchen , an oblong, larger than 
that of Glastonbury, was furnished with 
two chimneys, and lighted by two early 
pointed windows. The largest pile of 
building, probably of 17th century, may 
have been the refectory: see beneath 
it a well-lighted crypt forming enormous 
cellars. The Abbey belonged to the 
Benedictine Order, who carried on ex¬ 
tensive and useful ironworks. They 
were famous locksmiths. To furnish 
motive power they dammed up the 
stream which traverses the enclosure 
and fills the fish-pond, forming a tank 4 
m. long, filling up the valley from side 
to side. 

At Virton, a thriving town on the 
way to Arlon, is a good Inn (Cheval 
Blanc). 

Neufchateau is an uninteresting town 
(1800 Inhab.). Inns wretched. 


ROUTE 32. 

BRUSSELS TO PARIS, BV IIAL, MONS, 

MAUBEUGE, HAUTMONT, ST. QUENTIN, 

—RAILWAY. 

197 Eng. m. Two express trains 
daily, in 6£ hours. This is the shortest 
way to Paris. 

Terminus at Brussels, Station du 
Midi, near the S. Boulevard (Rte 23). 

On quitting the station the Boule¬ 
vard is crossed, the Porte de Hal is 
seen on the 1., and the river Senne is 
passed near Foret. Good view of 
Bruxelles. 

6 Ruysbroeck Stat., birthplace of 
Wm. de Ruhruquis (de Ruysbroeck), a 
monk sent by St. Louis to the Khan of 
Tartary, who has left an account of his 
travels; also of the architect of the 
tower of Brussels town-hall. 

The railway runs side by side with 
the Canal de Charleroi, whose bed is 
in some places higher than it. There 
are many cuttings on this line. 

3 Loth Stat. 

5 Hal Junct . Stat. (Inn: H. des 
Pays-Bas.) Hal is a town of 7800 In- 
hah. on the Senne and the Canal de 
Charleroi. Visit the Church of Notre 
Dame (formerly of St. Martin ), a rich 
Gothic edifice (1341-1409), containing 
a chapel resorted to by pilgrims on ac¬ 
count of a black miracle-working image 
of the Virgin, of wood, 2 ft. high* which 
had acquired enormous wealth from the 
offerings of pious devotees, including 
gold plate and other gifts from Charles 
V., Maximilian I., Pope Julius IL, 
Henry VIII. &c., which the French 
made free to appropriate to their oiVn 
uses, 1794. In a recess under the 
tower, railed off, are 33 cannon¬ 
balls, which, having been aimed at 
the church during the bombard¬ 
ment, were caught by the Virgin in 
her robe spread over the town to 
protect it! The High Altar has a re- 
redos carved by Mone, a native artist, 
1533, unequalled in the Netherlands. 




208 


Sect. IT. 


ROUTE 32. —SOIGNIES. MONS. 


It is of marble, in the best style of 
the Renaissance. Its base is the deposi¬ 
tory for the Host: on the next stage is 
St. Martin dividing his cloak: the 2 
lower rows of bas-reliefs represent the 
7 Sacraments, admirable as works of 
art; the whole is surmounted by the 
pelican. In the chapel E. end of its aisle 
is an effigy of a Dauphin of France, son 
of Louis XI., died 1460. 

In the octagon baptistery attached 
to the ch. is the gorgeous font of brass, 
covered by a spire studded with sta¬ 
tuettes and groups in high-relief, of 
the Baptism of Christ, St. Martin, &c. 
It was cast at Toumay, 1446, by an 
artist named Lefebvre. The sacristy 
contains old votive plate— e. g. a silver 
monstrance given by Henry VIII. on 
the capture of Tournay, &c., and much 
curious furniture. 

Railway direct to Calais by Toumay. 
(Rte. 15.) 

5 Tubise Stat. A tunnel precedes 

11 Braine le Comte Junct. Stat.—a 

town of 6400 Inhab., named after Count 
Baldwin, who bought it from the monks 
of St. Waudru, at Mons, 1158. See , in 
the Church of St. Gery , an altarpiece 
with rich carvings in Renaissance style 
(1577). 

The district around furnishes some 
of the finest flax which is anywhere 
produced: it is employed in the manu¬ 
facture of Brussels lace. A few miles 
to the N.W. is Steenkerke , where Wil¬ 
liam III. was defeated by the French, 
in 1692, with a loss of 7000 men. 

A railway is carried hence to Manage, 
Charleroi, and Namur, 38f m. (Rte. 28.) 

6 Soignies Stat. (Inn • H. des 3 
Rois). This town of 6800 Inhab. has 
perhaps the oldest Ch. in Belgium, St. 
Vincent Maldegaire , founded 965, and 
still retaining portions of 10th centy. 
work. It is a basilica on the plan of a 
Latin cross. The nave has a lofty 
triforium. Obs. the tomb and shrine 
at the end of the choir, and a tabernacle 
of marble, in the style of the Renais¬ 
sance, in a side chapel. There are 
tombstones of the 13th and 14th centy. 
in the cemetery. Soignies has given 
its name to the forest which reaches 
to Waterloo. The railway makes an 
abrupt bend W. to reach 


13 Jurbize Junction Stat. About 5 m. 
W. lies Beloeil, chateau of the Prince 
de Ligne. (Rte. 15.) Here a railway 
branches off to Ath, Toumay, and 
Calais. (See Rte. 15.) To reach the 

Mons Station, the fortifications are 
cut through to admit the passage of the 
railway. 

12 Mons. (Bergen in Flemish.) 
— Inns: H. Garin; H. Royal. Mons, 
the capital of the province of Hainault 
(German, Henne gau; Flemish, Henne- 
gouw), is a fortified town of 26,900 
Inhab., owing its origin to a castle built 
here by Julius Caesar during his campaign 
against the Gauls. After the siege in 
1680, the King of Spain, to whom the 
town belonged, rewarded the citizens 
for their courageous resistance, by con¬ 
ferring a peerage on every member of 
the corporation. The fortifications were 
razed by the Empr. Joseph II., but 
have been renewed and strengthened 
since 1818. The facilities for laying 
the country round the town completely 
under water, by admitting the river 
Trouille, add greatly to its defensive 
capabilities. Nevertheless their demo¬ 
lition has been decreed. 

Mons derives great advantages from 
the numerous and productive Coal¬ 
mines by which it is surrounded; a 
great many steam-engines are employed 
to pump up the water and extract the 
coal, which is exported in large quan¬ 
tities to Paris. In 1840, 26,000 per¬ 
sons were employed in 376 coalpits 
of the coalfield of Mons. There are 
also in the neighbourhood extensive 
bleaching grounds. 

The principal building is the Church 
of St. Waudru (Waltrudis), a handsome 
Gothic edifice, begun in 1450, but not 
completed till 1580, on your 1. hand as 
you enter Mons from the railway. The 
interior is well worth notice. It is 80 ft. 
high. Dates: choir, with fine polygonal 
apse, 1502; transepts, 1519; naves, 
aisles, 1521-89. The elegant and lofty 
reeded piers without capitals 'send 
forth a network of ribs over the roof. 
The high altar is decorated with marble 
bas-reliefs from the New Testament, 
cut by an Italian artist, 1556, which 



ROUTE 33.—BRUSSELS TO PARIS. 


209 


Belgium . 

were mutilated at the French revo¬ 
lution. Here is also a Tabernacle. 
Some good stained glass of 16th centy. 
in the windows of choir and transepts. 

On the highest ground in the city, 
not far from St. Waudru, is a tower or 
beffroi built in 1662 on the site of 
Caesar’s Castrum, as is reported. The 
castle to which it belongs is now a 
lunatic asylum. The Gothic Town Hall 
was begun in 1458; the tower is a later 
addition, and the whole ranks far below 
other municipal edifices of Belgium. 

Mons was the native place of Or¬ 
lando Lassus, the celebrated musician 
of the 16th cent., and has erected a 
statue of him in bronze, 1853. A com¬ 
munication is opened between Mons and 
the Schelde by the Canal de Conde ; a 
new branch, called Canal d’Antoing, 
has been cut to avoid the French ter¬ 
ritory altogether, and to enter the 
Schelde lower down, at a point where 
both hanks of that river belong to 
Belgium. 

[About 10 m. S. from Mons, within the 
French frontier, was fought the bloody 
battle of Malplaquet , 1710, where the 
Duke of Marlborough and Prince Eu¬ 
gene beat the French, though with a 
loss of 20,000 men: a murderous con¬ 
flict and a useless victory.] 

The stations beyond Mons are— 

Cuesmes Stat.—Frameries Stat. 

Quevy Stat.—Belgian frontier. 

Feignies Stat.—French frontier. (See 
Handbook of France .) 

Maubeuge Junct. Stat. Here the ex¬ 
press trains to Paris from Brussels and 
Cologne unite. 

Hautmont Stat. 

St. Quentin Stat. 

Paris Terminus. (See Handbook of 
Paris.') 


ROUTE 33. 

BRUSSELS TO PARIS, BY OTTIGNIES, 

CHARLEROI, ERQUELINNES, ST. QUEN¬ 
TIN, AND CREIL. 

215 m.— 2 trains daily—the express 
in 8 hours—starting from the Great 
Luxemburg Railway terminus, Quartier 
Leopold. That line is described in 
Rte. 29, and is followed as far as 

Ottignies June. Stat. 

Here branch Railways—from Wavre 
and Louvain; from Nivelles; from 
Manage and Mons ; and from Charleroi 
—meet the Great Luxemburg Rly. 

3 Court St. Etienne Stat. 

5 La Roche Stat. 

3 Villers la Ville Stat. is close to 
the extensive ruins of the Abbey of 
Villers , founded by St. Bernard 1146, 
suppressed by the French 1796. The 
rly. is carried through the boundary 
wall and skirts the abbot’s garden, 
leaving on rt.— 

The * Church, begun 1225, dedicated 
1272, 338 ft. long, and built with 
all the purity of the Early English 
Gothic; the tracery is imperfect (see 
Fergusson ). Many of the conventual 
buildings, the Cloisters, Refectory, &c., 
remain, very interesting to the student, 
and agreeable to the wayfarer to saunter 
among. 

rt. 3 m. lies Genappe. Rte. 24. 

4 Tilly Stat. This was the birthplace 
(1559) of Count Tzerclas de Tilly, 
general of the 30 years’ war ; opponent 
of Gustavus Adolphus. 

3 Marbais Stat. 

2 Ligny Stat. Near this occurred 
the defeat of the Prussians, under 
Bliicher, by Buonaparte, who drove 
them, after an obstinate resistance, from 
their position at the village, on the 
road to Sombreffe, 2 days before the 
battle of Waterloo, June 16, 1815. 
The Duke of Wellington visited Blii¬ 
cher a short while before the com¬ 
mencement of the action at the Wind¬ 
mill of Biy, and here concerted with 
him measures of future co-operation on 




210 


ROUTE 33 A.—SPA TO LUXEMBURG. 


Sect. IT. 


the 18th. The Duke’s practised eye 
perceived at once the faulty disposition 
of the Prussian army, he foretold their 
failure, and, fearing mischief, rode 
hack to bring up supports. The battle 
raged for 5 hrs. in and around St. 
Amand and in the narrow streets of 
Ligny, the key of Blucher’s position. 
After the French had broken through 
the Prussian line, Bliicher headed a 
charge of cavalry in person; but, his 
horse having been shot under him, he 
was thrown to the ground, and 2 French 
regiments of Cuirassiers rode over him. 
In spite of his defeat, however, he 
rallied his army within 1\ m. of the 
field of battle. The French did not 
dare to follow, or lost all trace of his 
direction, and he maintained his com¬ 
munications with the English, and 
made good his retreat to AVavre: no 
beaten army ever rallied quicker. Two 
other battles had been fought on nearly 
the same ground in 1622 and 1690. 

4 Fleurus Junct. Stat. (Inn : 
Mouton Blanc) has been a constant 
battle-field. In 1623 the Spaniards 
under Gonzales beat the forces of 
Mansfeld and the Duke of Brunswick ; 
in 1690 the French under Marshal 
Luxemburg defeated the Prince of AVal- 
dcck ; and it gives its name to another 
victory gained by the French (under 
Jourdan) over the Austrians in 1794. 

Bail to Tirlemont. 

5 Bansart Stat. 

3 Lodelinsart Stat. 

5 Charleroi Junction Stat. Bte. 


28. 

4 Marchiennes (Zone) Stat. in vale 
of Sambre. 

6 Landelies Stat. Buins of Alne 
Abbey. 

6 Thuin Stat. 4100 Inhab. 

Lobbes Stat. Buined Abbey. 

La Buissiere Stat. 
Solre-sur-Sambre Stat. 
Erquelinnes Stat. Belg. 
tom-house. 

1 Jeumont (frontier) Stat. 

9 Maubeuge Stat. 

Hautmont Stat. 

Landrecies Stat. 

St. Quentin Stat. 

Creil Stat. 

* Paris Stat. 


2 

6 

4 

2 


cus- 


See Handbook 
of France . 


BOUTE 33 a. 

SPA TO LUXEMBURG, BY STAVELOT AND 
VIEUX SALM. [DIEKIRCH.] 

82 m. 2 trains daily, in about 4^ 
hrs. 

Spa in (Bte 25). 

The Bly. follows the valley of the 
Ambleve, and afterwai’ds of the Haygne, 
constantly ascending for 6 or 8 m. 

4.2 m. Francorchamps Stat. (Fran- 
corum Campus). Omnibus to Malmedy 
(Bte. 44) 3 m. 

5f Stavelot Stat. (Inn, H. d’ Orange), 
a town of 4000 Inhab., owing its 
origin to an abbey (Stabulum Fide- 
lium), founded 651 by Sigebert, on 
the advice of St. Bemacle. In its 
church is preserved the very interest¬ 
ing Shrine (Chasse) of St. Remacle. It 
is 6 ft. long, of copper plates, gilt and 
enamelled, the sides flanked by 14 
canopied niches, containing silver-gilt 
statuettes 1 ft. high of the 12 Apostles ; 
with St. Bemacle and St. Lambert 
rather larger. At the ends, under the 
gables, are seated figures of our Lord, 
the Virgin and Child. The sloping roof 
is divided into 8 panels of reliefs in 
repoussee work, containing subjects 
from the life of our Lord. The sides, 
cornices, gables, &c., are encrusted 
with precious stones, beryl, opal, tur¬ 
quoise, &c. During the French Devo¬ 
lution, the shrine (said to contain still 
the saint’s bones) was placed in a large 
cask and sunk under water. It is pro¬ 
bably a work of the 14th cent. The 
only remains of the abbey ch. is part 
of a Bomanesque tower. Its abbots 
were princes of the Germ. Empire, and 
had a seat in the Diet, with right of 
coining money. The Benedictine Abbey 
is now a Girls’ School , supported by 
the bequest of a Mr. F. Newlai, and 
managed by nuns. There are 73 tan¬ 
neries here. 

Trois Ponts Stat., at the junction of 
the Salmloo and Ambleve, a good fish¬ 
ing-stream. 

Grand-Ilallen Stat. 




211 


ROUTE 33 A.—SPA TO LUXEMBURG. 


Belgium . 

Vieux Salm Stat. (Inn, Bellevue, 
clean),a sportsman’s resort, where some 
shooting may be obtained. 

Gouvy Stat., Belgian frontier, rt. 
is IlofFalize. The line passes across 
marshy common and heaths, near to 
the head-waters of the Our. 

Trois Yierges Stat. Prussian custom¬ 
house ; rt. is St. Yeit. 

Maidus Miihle Stat. 

Clervaux Stat. 

Wilwerwitch Stat. 

Kautenbach Stat. 

Gobesmuhle Stat. 

Ettelbriick Junct. Stat. Buffet. The 
river Sure is crossed; after a picturesque 
course by Dukerch and Ecbtemach, it 
enters the Moselle at AVasserbilligs. 

[A branch line from this to 

Diekirch Stat. (Inn, H. des Ardennes). 
6 m. from this is Vianden (Inn, H. de Lux¬ 
embourg), an old town of 1600 Inbab., 
with a veiy extensive Castle in a pic¬ 
turesque position, an ancient possession 
of the House of Nassau, on a rock above 
the Our river. It was in good pre¬ 
servation until 1820, when it was sold 
for 32,000 fl., and unroofed, but was 
bought back by the King of Holland, 
who is Count of V., in 1840, for less, 
but the roof was rebuilt and the Jube 
restored 1868. It has a triple circuit 
of walls; an octagon chapel of 2 
stories, above for the seigneur, below 
for the retainers. In the hall are 
2 fine Romanesque windows. 


13 m. from Yianden, descending the 
Our to its junction with the Sure at 
Wallendorf, and crossing the Sure to 
Beaufort Castle, is Echternach (Inn, 
Hirsch). The ancient Abbey Church 
of St. Willibrod was in miserable 
plight, roofless, but restored 1868. 
On Tuesday after Whit-Sunday there 
is a pilgrimage hither, and procession, 
in which old and young, men and 
women, each separated, perform a curi¬ 
ous dance. 

St. WUlebrod is a basilica of the 11th 
centy. (1017-31). See an old painting 
of St. W., with the abbey in the back¬ 
ground. 

The road is continued along the 
Sure to Wasserbillig Stat. on the rly. 
to Treves, 3 m. from the monument of 

Igel.] 

Colmar Berg Stat. Iron-works here, 
and a Chateau of Berg; and a seat of 
the King of Holland, commanding 
views over the Yale of Alzctte. 

"VValferdange Stat. 

Dommeldange Stat. Iron furnaces. 

The Rly. enters Luxemburg upon 
a gigantic viaduct over the Alzette, and 
through a tunnel under the fortifica¬ 
tions. 

Luxemburg Junct. Slat. (Rte; 29.) 






( 213 ) 


SECTION III. 

GERMANY. 


§ 28. Passports. — 29. Inns and Expenses. — 30. Beds. — 31. Valets-de-Place. — 
32. Custom-house League, Zollverein; Coinage. —33. Distances , Travelling Maps .— 
34. Modes of Travelling , Posting , Laufzettel. — 35. Diligences , or Eilwiigen. — 
36. Voiturier , or Lohnkutscher. — 37. Railroads. — 40. Some Peculiarities of 
German Manners , Titles , Salutations , Recreations , Public Gardens , Kirmes, The 
Students, Travelling Journeymen. — 41. German Watering-places. — 42. Music. 
— 43. Clubs and Reading-rooms. — 44. Burial-grounds. 


[N.B.—The information contained in this Section is of a general character and 
applicable to the whole of Germany. The details peculiar to different states 
of Germany will he found respectively under the heads—Prussia, Saxony, 
Bavaria, Austria, &c.] 


§ 28. Passports and Police Regulations. 

Travellers had better be prepared with passports, although few cases now-a- 
days occur in which they are required to show them. 


§ 29. Inns. 

Great care has been taken in this work to furnish the traveller with the names 
of the best inns throughout Germany and the North of Europe, derived princi¬ 
pally from personal experience, or that of friends, and trusting as little as possible 
to the usual recommendations of Guide Books, unless they were ascertained to 
be well founded. As it is the first information which a traveller requires on 
reaching a place, the names of the inns in all instances stand first. 

German Innkeepers are, on the whole, of a higher class, and hold a superior 
position in their respective towns, to that occupied by persons of a similar 
calling in England. They usually preside at their own tables-d’hote, entering 
familiarly into conversation with their guests. It is rarely necessary to make a 
bargain beforehand with a German landlord, a precaution almost indispensable 
in Italy. 

When, however, a traveller intends to take up his residence for several weeks, 
or even 6 or 8 days, in a hotel, it is a good plan, as well as customary, to come 
to an agreement with the landlord, who, under these circumstances, is usually 




214 


Sect. III. 


§ 29. INNS. 

willing to make an abatement of one-third from his usual charges. It is also a 
common practice to purchase a dozen or twenty tickets for the tablc-d’hote, which, 
when taken in such a number, are charged at a lower rate. The apartments are 
classed, as to price, according to the stories on which they are situated, the size, and 
the look-out—the highest and those turned to the back being least expensive. 
Average charges of inns in Northern Germany:— 


In Prussia. 

Thalers. Silver gros. 

Booms, varying ac- j 

cording to size > from 1 to 10'or 12 = from 
and situation - - j 

Beds - - - - - - 20 to 25 S. gr. 

Dinner at table-d’hote - - - 16 to 1 th.= 

-in private room from 1 to 1 10 = 

Tea or coffee, a portion for one 6 to 12 = 

Breakfast a la fourchette - - - - 15 = 

Half a bottle of wine ----- 5 = 

Servants - -- -- -- 5 to 7 


Frankfort, 
Nassau, Baden, &c. 

If. 12 kr. to 36 kr.. 


If. to 1 f. 48 kr. 
1 f. 24 kr. to 2 f. 20 kr. 
24 kr. to 30 kr. 

36 kr. to 48 kr. 

18 kr. 


These prices do not apply to Austria and Southern Germany. For those 
countries refer to Handbook for South Germany. 

Persons who travel for pleasure must expect to pay liberally, and any 
attempt on their part to make close bargains will generally fail; there is a sort 
of ordinary charge, which the traveller soon finds out, and, with common tact 
and judgment, he may manage to visit most parts of the Continent without being 
entangled in annoying squabbles; but should a bill contain items of an unreason¬ 
ably high price, instead of pointing them out to the waiter, and clamorously 
insisting on an immediate reduction, he should go himself to the master’s room, 
and speak to him when no servants are by : a remonstrance founded on reason, 
and politely made, will then generally have its effect: this mode cannot be too 
strongly recommended. Travellers intending to set out early in the morning 
should cause their bills to be made out and delivered to them over night , that they 
may examine the items at leisure; but they should not pay them until the 
moment of starting. It is indispensable, to prevent fraud, to examine inn-bills, 
and to understand them before paying them ; he who neglects this offers a pre¬ 
mium to dishonesty, and will scarcely escape being cheated. 

Servants in German inns.—A charge for service (Bedienung) of 5 to 7 s. gr. 
is usually made in the bills. The Hausknecht (boots) sometimes expects an 
extra gratuity. The English give much more trouble to the servants than the 
natives, and something more is expected of them. 

Tables-d’hote. —The usualhour for dining(Mittagsessen)is 1 o’clock; in theNorth 
of Germany it is as late as 2 or 3 ; in the South it is even as early as 12. The 
table-d’hote is frequented by both ladies and gentlemen, and, especially at the 
watering-places, by persons of the highest ranks, from Grand Dukes and Princes 
downwards. The stranger will find much more general urbanity than in a simi¬ 
larly mixed assemblage in England; the topics and news of the day are discussed 
without restraint; and if the traveller be anxious to gain general or local infor¬ 
mation, he will frequently succeed at the table-d’hote; and should his visit to a 
town or place be somewhat rapid, perhaps he will have no other source to go 
to. Added to this, the best dinner is always to be had at the table-d’hote. It 
answers the landlord’s purpose to provide sumptuously, en gros , for a large com¬ 
pany, and he therefore discourages dining in private. Those however who dis¬ 
like the noise and bustle of a public table may dine perfectly well in the salle-a- 
manger, or in their own room, a la carte, choosing their own dishes. 

German innkeepers have become accustomed to Englishmen’s habits of dining 






Germany. § 30. german beds. 31. valets-de-place. 215 

late; and in the hotels of the larger towns and watering-places there is a 
second table-d’hote at 5 or 6 o’clock, to accommodate the English. 

Those who intend to dine at the table-d’hote in a frequented inn at a full 
season should desire the waiter to keep places for them. The guests are usually 
seated according to priority of arrival, the last comers being placed at the foot of 
the table. 

Supper, which, owing to the early hour of dinner, is a usual meal in Germany, 
is ordered from the Carte (Speise-Carte). 

Travellers on the Rhine during May should inquire for Maitrank, a spiced 
wine, or cup flavoured with an aromatic herb (Asperula odorata). 

In German inns the best apartments, even on the lower floor, though furnished 
elegantly as a parlour, serve as bed-rooms, and contain one or more beds. The 
price of a room depends upon the number of beds in it, but the double-bedded 
rooms are invariably superior to those with only one bed. The partitions 
dividing the rooms of German inns are often very thin, and the rooms usually 
open into each other; the tenant should, therefore, remember that what he says 
and does is liable to be overheard. 

§ 30. German Beds. 

One of the first complaints of an Englishman in the remote parts of Germany will 
be directed against the beds. It is therefore as well to make him aware before¬ 
hand of the frill extent of misery to which he will be subjected on this score. A 
German bed is made only for one; it may be compared to an open wooden box, 
often hardly wide enough to turn in, and rarely long enough for any man of 
moderate stature to lie down in. The pillows encroach nearly half-way down, 
and form such an angle with the bed that it is scarcely possible to lie at full 
length, or assume any other than a half-sitting posture. Curtains are almost 
always wanting. The place of blankets is sometimes supplied by a light puffy 
feather-bed, which is likely to be kicked off, and forsake in his utmost need the 
sleeper, who, on awaking in cold weather, finds himself frozen : should it remain 
in its position in warm weather, the opposite alternative is that of suffocation 
beneath it. Mr. Coleridge has recorded his abhorrence of a German bed, 
declaring “ he would rather carry his blanket about him, like a wild Indian, than 
submit to this abominable custom.” The Germans themselves say that they use 
the feather-bed merely to cover their feet in cold weather. 

The stranger who appreciates this nuisance to its full extent is recommended 
to ask the chambermaid for a counterpane (bett-decke), instead of the usual 
federbett. 

§ 31. Valets-de-place ; or, Lohnbedienter. 

It has been the custom of many travellers who have published tours to speak 
very contemptuously of the class of guides who go by the name of valets-de- 
place, though it may fairly be suspected that they owe much of the best part of 
their books to that despised caste. The fact is, that when a traveller arrives for 
the first time at a spot which he is desirous of seeing thoroughly, and at the 
same time does not intend to remain long in it, a valet-de-place is indispensable, 
unless he has friends who will perform the part of ciceroni for him. There are 
always a certain number of persons experienced in the duties of a guide attached 
to every inn; and if the traveller, instead of engaging a person nominated by the 
landlord, for the sake of sparing a franc or two, put his trust in the boys who 
may accost him in the streets, he runs the risk of falling into bad hands, or of 
finding himself in situations in which it will be neither agreeable nor creditable 

to be placed. . .... .. „ . . , . . , 

The utility of a valet-de-place consists m his knowledge of the horns at which 







216 


Sect. III. 


§ 32. CUSTOM-HOUSE LEAGUE. 

each church, picture-gallery, palace, or other sight, is open, or 'visible; how to 
procure tickets of admission, and where to find the keepers of them, which spares 
the traveller much time in running about in search of them, and, if he have a 
spare hour, furnishes the means of spending it advantageously. 

At the same time, it is necessary to put the traveller on his guard against the 
tricks of a valet-de-place. For his own advantage, and the interest of the inn¬ 
keeper his patron, he will often endeavour to detain the traveller by framing 
excuses—that collections are not open—that the passport office is closed, or— 
the minister out of town. It is better to state beforehand to the man what 
objects you desire to see, and how much time you can devote to seeing them; to 
ascertain from him at once at what hours different sights are thrown open to tho 
public, and to make him arrange the order of proceeding accordingly. With 
respect to passports, it may be borne in mind that the hours of attendance at 
police offices are, with very few exceptions, so regulated as never to detain per¬ 
sons who are anxious to proceed; and if the valet-de-place maintains there is any 
impediment, the best way to settle the matter is by calling in the landlord, or, if 
that will not do, by going in person to the police-office. 

The fee paid to a valet-de-place varies in different parts of Germany; and it 
will be found particularised in the description of almost all the great cities. It is 
not always necessary to engage him for the whole day : he may he hired by the 
hour, and paid accordingly. 

Travellers are warned on no account to take a valet-de-place with them into a 
shop where they wish to make purchases, since it is an acknowledged practice of 
the valet-de-place to demand of the tradesman a fee of 5 per cent, on the sum laid 
out by the stranger whom he conducts, and this is, of course, added to the price 
paid by the purchaser. Another practice, in towns where palaces or churches are 
exhibited by fixed attendants, is for the valet-de-place to name a larger s um 
than is necessary as the fee to be paid to the attendant, part of which he receives 
hack himself: unless the traveller ascertains that the fee named is fixed by tariff 
or usage, it is usually advisable to disregard altogether the sum mentioned by him. 


§ 32. German Custom-house League, Zollverein.—Coinage. 

It is an immense convenience to travellers to he able to traverse all parts of 
Germany, both the North and South, without passing through a Custom-house. 
This is due to an Association of the German States, called Zoll-Yerein (Toll 
Union), headed by Prussia, commenced in 1833, consolidating the different 
states of Germany, and uniting them under one system of customs. The members 
of this league have agreed to adopt the same scale of duties, to abolish all inter¬ 
mediate custom-houses, and to divide the profits among the states of the union 
proportionately to the population of each. The conforming states are—Prussia 
(the head of the league), Bavaria, Saxony, Hanover, Wiirtemberg, Baden, Bruns¬ 
wick, Hesse-Darmstadt, Cassel, Nassau, Frankfurt, the Duchies of Saxony and 
Mecklenburg, and Principalities of Anhalt, Oldenburg, and Schaumburg Lippe. 
Austria still follows the ancient regulations in all the states belonging to her. 

This Confederation has effected another object, viz., unity in the currency. 
A money convention was entered into by the States forming the Union in 1837, 
who agreed on a new basis of valuation under the term Sad Deutsche Wuhrung 
(S. D. W.), at the rate of 24~ gulden to the marc of fine silver, the marc of fine 
silver weighing 233 f 0 )f 5 grammes. 

The German monetary system is based no longer on the Cologne mark, but on 
a new pound = exactly 500 grammes. 

30 Prussian thalers, I 

45 Austrian florins, > are contained in 1 lb. fine silver of 500 grammes. 

52^ German ditto, j 


Germany. § 32. coinage. 33. distances. 217 

The florins coined by the Customs Union are: 1 fl.=19|<i., making the par 
of exchange with London 120£ fl. S. D. W. = 10Z. and 2 florin pieces. 

4 Prussian thalers = 6 Austrian florins = 7 Bavarian florins. 

Bavaria, Wurtemberg, Baden, Frankfurt, and Saxony have issued coins at this 
rate : piece of 2 thalers=34 florins, or T k lb. It bears on one side the head of 
the sovereign, on the other the words “ Vereins Miinze.” 

1 centner of the Zollverein=50 French kilogrammes=110i lbs. avoirdupois. 

The ton of 4 scheffels=6 imp. bushels, nearly 1 per cent. more. 


German Money Table. 


Table A. 

Francs into Florins. 


Table B. Table C. 

Francs into rrn , . 

Prussian money. -Thalers into Florins. 


Franc. 


Flo. 

Ktz 

Franc 


Tha. Gros. 

Tha. 

Gros 


Flo. Ktz 

1 

zz 


28 ; 

1 

zz 


8 


2 

zz 


7 

2 

zz 


56 

2 

zz 


16 


4 

zz 


14 

3 

zz 

1 

24 

3 

zz 


24 


6 

zz 


21 

4 

zz 

1 

52 

4 

zz 

1 

2 


8 

zz 


23 

5 


2 

20 

5 

zz 

1 

10 


10 

zz 


35 

6 


2 

48 

6 

zz 

1 

18 


12 

zz 


42 

7 

zz 

3 

16 

7 

zz 

1 

26 


14 

zz 


49 

8 

zz 

3 

44 

8 

:z 

2 

4 


16 

= 


56 

9 


4 

12 

9 

zz 

2 

12 


18 

zz 

1 

3 

10 

— 

4 

40 

10 

zz 

2 

20 


20 

zz 

1 

10 

ll 

— ; 

5 

8 

11 

zz 

2 

28 


22 

zz 

1 

17 

12 

zz 

5 

36 

12 

= 

3 

6 


24 

zz 

1 

24 

13 


6 

4 

13 

zz 

3 

14 


26 

zz 

1 

31 

14 

ZI 

6 

32 

14 

zz 

3 

22 


28 

zz 

1 

38 

15 


7 

0 

15 

zz 

4 

0 

1 

0 

zz 

1 

45 

16 

— 

7 

28 

16 

zz 

4 

8 

1 

2 

zz 

1 

52 

17 

— 

7 

56 

17 

zz 

4 

16 

1 

4 

zz 

1 

59 

18 

• — 

8 

24 

18 

zz 

4 

24 

1 

6 

zz 

2 

6 

19 


8 

52 

19 

zz 

5 

2 

1 

8 

zz 

2 

13 

20 

~~~ 

9 

20 

20 

z: 

5 

10 

1 

10 

zz 

2 

20 

25 

~— 

11 

40 

21 

zz 

5 

18 

1 

12 

zz 

2 

27 

30 

— 

14 

0 

22 

zz 

5 

26 

1 

14 

zz 

2 

34 

35 

— 

16 

20 

23 

zz 

6 

4 

1 

16 

zz 

2 

41 

40 

= 

18 

40 

24 

zz 

6 

12 

1 

18 

zz 

2 

48 

45 

*~* 

21 

0 

25 

zz 

6 

20 

1 

20 

zz 

2 

55 

50 

* — 

23 

20 

26 

zz 

6 

28 

1 

22 

zz 

3 

2 

55 

— 

25 

40 

27 

:z 

7 

6 

1 

24 

zz 

3 

9 

60 

— 

28 

0 

23 

zz 

7 

14 

1 

26 

zz 

3 

16 

65 

— 

30 

20 

29 

zz 

7 

22 

1 

28 

zz 

3 

23 

70 


32 

40 

30 

zz 

8 

0 

2 

0 

zz 

3 

30 

75 


35 

0 

35 

= 

9 

10 

2 

12 

zz 

4 

12 

80 

= 

37 

20 

40 

zz 

10 

20 

2 

18 

zz 

4 

33 

85 

— 

39 

40 

45 

zz 

12 

0 

2 

24 

== 

4 

54 

90 

= 

42 

0 

50 

zz 

13 

10 

3 

0 

zz 

5 

15 

95 

= 

44 

20 

55 

zz 

14 

20 

4 

0 

rz: 

7 

0 

100 

= 

46 

40 

60 

zz 

16 

0 

5 

0 

zz 

8 

45 

150 

= 

70 

0 

65 

zz 

17 

10 

6 

0 

zz 

10 

30 

200 

— 

93 

20 

70 

zz 

18 

20 

7 

0 

zz 

12 

15 

250 

= 

116 

40 

75 

zz 

20 

0 

8 

0 

zz 

14 

0 

300 

zz 

140 

0 

80 

= 

21 

10 

9 

0 

zz 

15 

45 


§ 33. Distances.—Travelling Maps. 

I German m. = 4£ Eng. m. (say 5 Eng. m. on an average), or about 1 French 
post. 15 Germ, in., or 14*77 Prussian, make a degree. 1 Germ. m. = 22,803 
Rhenish feet. 

[n. G.] 


L 







218 


Sect. III. 


§ 34. POSTING. 

2 Germ, m., or 4 stimden (hours), make one post = 9| Eng. m. The German 
post stunde is not quite 2^ Eng. m.; the Stunde zu Fuss (hour walking) is about 
3 m., or as much as a man can walk in an horn’ without much exertion. In 
Rhenish Prussia the mile is divided into 100 parts, which are marked by small 
stones set up at the roadside. These stones are therefore 82 yards Eng.. apart, 
and 211 of these hundredths make an English mile, nearly. This subdivision of 
the German mile is used to express distances on the railroads. 

German post miles compared with English. Ger. En<». 

1 Prussian, Bavarian, Hanoverian, New Saxon, Hessian = 4§ or 5 = 23 

1 Austrian - -- -- -- -- -- -- -- 4f — 5 = 23| 

1 Old Saxon ----------- - 5^? — 5 — 28£ 

1 French Poste - - - - - - - - - - - - - = 4| — 5 — 24 

1 French Myriametre - - * - - - - - - - — 6| — 5 = 31 

There is a very good travelling map of Germany, with separate maps of the 
several railways, by Diez, published by Justus Perthes : Gotha. It costs, when 
mounted on linen and in a case, 3 thalers = 9 s. 


§ 34. Posting, or Extra Post.—Laufzettel. 

Posting throughout Germany has become nearly obsolete since the introduc¬ 
tion of railways. 

Postilion's Trinkgeld (drink-money). The best general rule is to pay him as a 
horse, or double the tariff, if the traveller is satisfied with the postilion. Ho is 
never restricted to the sum which he can legally demand, except when he has not 
given satisfaction. 

A post-caleche costs about as much as a third horse. 

The Wagenmeister (coachmaster), a kind of superior ostler, who superintends 
the postboys, is sometimes entitled to a small fee on putting the horses to. 

Schmiergeld (grease-money). On driving up to the posthouse, the traveller 
is often addressed with the words, “ Wollen sie schmieren lassen? ” (Will you 
have the wheels greased ?) Whether this is done or not, in some countries the fee 
is exacted; but more frequently it is only paid when the grease is actually applied. 

Laufzettel. —Travellers pressed for time, and desirous of avoiding all delay 
at post-houses, may bespeak relays of horses along the road they are about to 
travel, on application at the Poste aux Chevaux or the post-office of the town 
from which they set out. They must apply at least 12 hours before the time 
they intend to start, must state in writing when they intend to depart, the route 
they propose to follow, and the number of horses they require; and the post¬ 
master will send on beforehand and make arrangements accordingly. This 
order is called a Laufzettel, and may he obtained at a trifling expense wherever 
a diligence or schnellpost travels. It is in use, I believe, throughout Germany, 
The value of this in short days, and when you wish to get rapidly over an 
uninteresting country, is very great; and in the harvest, when post-horses and 
postilions are constantly employed in the fields, you will sometimes find it 
difficult to get through 70 or 80 English miles in 2 days without a laufzettel. 

Tolls. —The practice of including the tolls in the charge for the horses is 
general in Germany. 





Germany. § 35. diligences, 36. german yoiturier. 


219 


§ 35. Diligences 

(called in Prussia Schnellposten, in Austria Eilwagen ) are now almost superseded 
by Railways, except on bye roads. 

The post-office and public conveyances belong to the Government, and are 
managed by its officers, with very few exceptions, in all the German states. The 
Schnellpost, or Eilwagen, is placed under the care of a guard, called Conducteur, 
or Schirrmeister. In most cases the seats are numbered, and passengers are 
placed in the order in which their places are engaged. The first numbers are 
affixed to the corner seats, which of course are more desirable than those in the 
middle, especially for night travelling. On this account, it will be perceived how 
advantageous it is to engage the place as long as possible before the time of 
starting. The fare must be paid beforehand, and a receipt is always given for 
it, and for baggage, whether the passenger takes it with him or sends it by the 
waggon. The greatest care is taken of the baggage of travellers all over the 
Continent: instances of loss are very rare. Every package must be distinctly 
addressed, with the name and destination of the person to whom it belongs; 
otherwise the post-office will not be responsible for it if lost. 

Passengers cannot be called for at their own houses, but must meet the diligence 
at the coach-office, and must send their luggage at least an hour before. Every 
article is weighed and entered in a book. A certain weight is allowed to each 
passenger; all above that must be paid for: large trunks must be sent by a 
baggage-waggon. 

The Conducteur is usually a superior person to the English guard; and, besides 
his duties, has the charge of paying postilions, and is responsible for the baggage 
of his passengers. He is not entitled to any remuneration from them ; indeed, in 
many cases he is forbidden to acccept any. 

Rate of Fares per Germ. m. 8 to 10 S. gr. = 28 to 36 kr. = 9 \d. to ll|d. 

Rate of travelling .—In Prussia, on the best roads, 8 English m. an hour; in 
other parts, and in Austria, 6 m.; but sometimes only 1 Germ, m. per hour, 


§ 36. The German Voiturier—Lohnkutscher. 

The advantages of Vetturino travelling consist, first , in its being cheaper than 
posting, or even than the Schnellpost, when 4 persons join in taking a carriage; 
secondly , it is more independent than the diligence, as it allows the traveller to 
stop on the road, by having a previous understanding with the driver; thirdly, as 
there are many roads on which German schnellposts and eilwagen do not travel 
every day of the week, it is often the only mode of proceeding unless the traveller 
take post-horses; fourthly , it is almost the only available mode of travelling upon 
cross or side roads which are not post roads; fifthly, it allows the traveller an 
opportunity of resting at night. At the same time it must be remembered that, 
as the Lohnkutscher travels with the same pair of horses, it is not an expeditious 
mode of conveyance; 40 or 50 m. being the utmost extent of a day’s journey; 
and 1 or 2 halts of an hour or two’s duration are necessary to refresh the 
horses each day. It will therefore not answer for the traveller who is pressed 
for time. 

The usual Vetturino carriage is a light sort of caleche, capable of being shut in 

L 2 


220 


Sect. III. 


§ 36. GERMAN VOITURIER. 

with leather curtains or glass windows, and of accommodating 4 or 5 persons, and 
1 on the box. The coachman undertakes the care and transport of baggage- 
without any additional charge. Attached to the footboard behind is a large 
wicker basket for holding luggage, which is secured in its place by a chain. 

The usual cost per diem for the entire use of a caleche, drawn by 2 horses, is 
from 6 to 7 dollars in Prussia and the N. of Germany, and 8 or 10 florins in the 
S. near the Rhine ; and along much traversed roads the rate is sometimes even 
higher. The driver, if he behave well, receives a trinkgeld of 12 groschen, or a 
zwanziger, per diem. In this is included every charge for tolls, barriers, ferries, 
&c., and the driver provides for himself and horses. When forage is dear or tolls 
heavy, some little difference may be made; but the above may be considered an 
average of the charges. As a further scale by which to calculate a Lohnkutscher’s 
charge it may be mentioned that the hire of a carriage for 4 persons should not 
exceed § or ~ the fare of 4 for the same distance in the eilwagen. 

Upon much frequented roads the German Lohnkutscher has no right to claim 
hack fare , as he hardly fails to pick up passengers on his return; and indeed he 
will not hesitate to go to the most distant corner of Europe if he meets with a 
good offer. 

Before hiring a carriage expressly for a journey, it is advisable to ascertain 
whether there be no return carriages (retour chaisen) about to take the same 
route, as such may be engaged at a very reduced rate. 

A single individual has no occasion to take a whole coach to himself; he may 
secure a single place, paying proportionately; but then he must take his chance 
of the company he may have to encounter as fellow-passengers. He should 
make his bargain and secure his place over night; if he wait till the morning, he 
will probably find that all the Lohnkutschers have departed before he was up, as 
they set out betimes, and he will either be compelled to remain on the spot till 
the following day, or to hire a carriage expressly for himself. 

When the journey will last for several days, it will be well not to engage the 
coachman at once for the whole distance, but, if satisfied, to take him on day by 
day. It is better not to employ a driver upon a road which he has not travelled 
before, but to seek out one who will serve as a guide, and be able to give some 
information about the inns and country through which he has to pass. 

In Germany it is not customary or necessary to draw up a written agreement 
with the driver, as in Italy ; but it is sometimes the practice for him to deposit 
in the hands of the person who has engaged him a small sum of money {hand- or 
darauf-geld; in Italy, la caparra ) as a surety that he will not fail in his engage¬ 
ment, and run off, in case he can make a better bargain elsewhere. The receipt 
of this money is also binding on the part of the employer, who cannot afterwards 
put off the driver without paying him a consideration. 

Before engaging the whole carriage a verbal stipulation should be made with the 
driver, that he is to take up no person by the way without his employer’s con¬ 
sent ; that he is to stop when and where he is bid; and, though it is an under¬ 
stood thing that he is to pay all tolls, &c., a foreigner had better mention this 
also. The time of starting and the length of the day’s journey should also be 
fixed. 

The German Voiturier does not engage to provide you with meals, as the 
Italian; but he expects to be allowed to stop at inns of his own choosing—a 
condition to which travellers are not compelled to agree, though they rarely ob¬ 
ject. He never fails to regulate his daily journey so as to make his mid-day halt 
at some place where there is a good dinner just ready to be served up. This 
mid-day halt of 2 or 3 hours’ duration will often suffice to enable the traveller 
to see as much as he can desire of many places where he would have no inclina¬ 
tion to spend a whole day, and which he would merely drive hurriedly through 
in the public diligences. 


Germany . § 37 . railways. 40 . geRMak MANNERS. 


221 


§ 37. Railways. 

Railroads have extended rapidly in Germany since 1849. The map, and the 
following routes, will show what lines are now open, or about to open. 

Many of the German rules and regulations are in the highest degree cumbrous, 
frivolous, vexatious, and useless; none more so than those relating to overweight 
(ubergewicht) of baggage. 50 lbs. weight is the usual allowance free; if you 
have 51 lbs. you pay as for 100. Travellers should be at the station, if they have 
luggage, some time before the train starts, as the weighing, ticketing, and paying 
for the luggage is a very tedious process. 

Numbered tickets are affixed to every article, and a corresponding receipt is 
given to the owner, which he must produce at the end of his journey in order 
to reclaim his property. 

There is a sort of German Bradshaw, ‘ HendschelVs Eisenbahn Telegraph ,’ pub¬ 
lished by Jugel of Frankfort, giving Time Tables of the German lines, which is 
very serviceable, price 10 S. gr. 

The Germans seldom travel in the 1st class carriages, the 2nd class being very 
good. The English who object to smoking may obtain seats in a separate 
carriage (often marked nicht rauchen) by applying to the guard. 


§ 40. Some Peculiarities of German Manners. 

A fondness for titles, orders, and high-sounding forms of address, which was 
ever the characteristic of the Germans, though perhaps less intense than formerly, 
has by no means yet disappeared. The German is scarcely happy until - he can 
hang a little bit of striped riband from his button-hole, and every effort of in¬ 
terest and exertion is made to increase the number of them, and of the crosses 
and stars which dangle from them. This is the eagerly coveted object of every 
placeman. “ There are two things,” says the Eckensteher , “ that a Beamte cannot 
avoid— Death , and the third class of the Red Eagle.” 

At one of the diplomatic meetings during the Congress at Vienna, when all 
the members were assembled in the hall of conference, a foreign envoy ap¬ 
proached Prince Mettemich, and begged him to point out Lord Castlereagh. 
The Prince indicated to him the English minister, who wore neither star nor 
uniform. “ Comment ?” said the doubting diplomatic; “ il n’a pas de decora¬ 
tion?”—“ Ma foi,” replied Prince Metternich, “ c'est bien distingue.” 

One habit of German society, which cannot fail sometimes to occasion a smile 
to an Englishman, though it costs him some trouble to acquire it, is the necessity 
of addressing everybody, whether male or female, not by their own name, but 
by the titles of the office which they hold. 

To accost a gentleman, as is usual in England, with Sir (Mein Herr), if 
not considered among the Germans themselves as an actual insult, is at least not 
complimentary; it is requisite to find out his office or profession. Madame and 
Mademoiselle, addressed to German ladies, are equally terms of inferiority. The 
commonest title to which everybody aspires is that of Councillor (Rath), which 
is modified and extended by various affixes and prefixes: there is a rath for every 
profession: an architect is a Baurath; an advocate a Justizrath, &c. &c.; and a 
person with no profession at all contrives to be made a Hofrath (court councillor), 
a very unmeaning title, which is generally borne by persons who were never in 
a situation to give advice to the court. The dignity of Staatsrath (privy 
councillor) is given to members of the administration; some real dignity is at¬ 
tached to it, and the persons bearing it are further addressed by the title of 
excellency. The title Professor is much abused, as it is certainly appropriated 



22 § 40. PECULIARITIES OF GERMAN MANNERS. Sect. III. 

by many persons who have no real claim to it by their learning or office. It is 
better, in conversing with a German, to give a person a rank greater than he is 
entitled to than to fall beneath the mark. Geheimrath, for example, is higher 
than Professor. It is upon this principle that an Englishman is sometimes ad¬ 
dressed by the common people, to his great surprise, as Herr Graf (Mr. Count), 
and often as Euer Gnaden (Your Grace). 

“ Every man who holds any public office, should it be merely that of an under 
clerk, with a paltry salary of 40/. a year, must be gratified by hearing his title, 
not his name. Even absent persons, when spoken of, are generally designated 
by their official titles, however humble and unmeaning they may be. The ladies 
are not behind in asserting their claims to honorary appellations. All over Ger¬ 
many a wife insists upon taking the title of her husband, with a feminine termi¬ 
nation. There is Madame general-ess, Madame privy councillor-ess, Madame 
daybook-keeper-ess, and a hundred others.”— Russel. 

Read and see Kotzebue’s amusing ridicule of this, in his comedy called Die 
Deutschen Kleinstadter. 

These titles sometimes extend to an almost unpronounceable length; only 
think, for instance, of addressing a lady as Frau Oberconsistorialdirectorin (Mrs. 
Directress of the Upper Consistory Court). This may be avoided, however, by 
substituting the words Gnadige Frau (Gracious Madame) in addressing a lady. 
It must at the same time be observed, that this fondness for titles, and especially 
for the prefix von (of, equivalent to the French de , and originally denoting the pos¬ 
sessor of an estate), is, to a certain extent, a vulgarity from which the upper classes 
of German society are free. The rulers of Germany take advantage of the 
national vanity, and lay those upon whom they confer the rank under obligation; 
while they, at the same time, levy a tax upon the dignity proportionate to its eleva¬ 
tion ; thus a mere Hofrath pays from 30 to 40 dollars annually, and the higher 
dignities a more considerable sum. If, however, the title is acquired by merit, no 
tax is paid, but merely a contribution to a fund for the widows and children of 
the class. 

Certain forms and titles are also prefixed on the address of a letter: thus a 
Count of the high nobility and ancient empire must be addressed Erlaucht (Illus¬ 
trious) ; a Count of the lesser noblesse, Hochgeborener Herr (High-born Sir); 
a baron and a minister, even though not of noble birth, and every captain is 
called Hochwohl geboren; a merchant or roturier must content himself with 
being termed Wohl-(well) geboren; while Hochedel (high noble) is ironically 
applied to tradesmen. 

“ In one respect, in Germany, I think politeness is carried too far—I mean in 
the perpetual act of pulling off the hat. Speaking ludicrously of it, it really be¬ 
comes expensive , for, with a man who has a large acquaintance in any public 
place, his hat is never two minutes at rest.”— Nimrod’s Letters from Holstein . 

German civility, however, does not consist in outward forms alone, and a tra¬ 
veller will do well to conform, as soon as possible, to the manners of the country, 
even down to the mode of salutation, troublesome as it is. If he continue unbend¬ 
ing, he will be guilty of rudeness: and on entering any public office, even the 
office of the schnellposts, the underlings of the place, down to the book-keeper, 
will require him to take off his hat, if he does it not of his own accord. An Eng¬ 
lish traveller repaired to the police-office at Berlin to have his passport signed, 
and, having waited half an hour, said to the secretary to whom he had delivered 
it, “ Sir, I think you have forgotten my passport.” “Sir,” replied the man of 
office, “ I think you have forgotten your hat!”. 

In thus recommending to travellers the imitation of certain German customs, it 
is not meant, be it observed, to insist on the practice prevalent among the German 
men of saluting their male friends with a kiss on each side of the cheek. It is not 
a little amusing to observe this, with us feminine , mode of greeting, exchanged 
between two whiskered and mustachioed giants of the age of 50 or 60. 


223 


Germany. § 40. peculiarities of german manners. 

u Smoking is a most important branch of the business of life of almost every 
German of every condition; and to say the truth, I am rather inclined to think it 
a good thing for the common people. If they did not smoke, they would probably 
drink more.”— Lord Dudley. 

German Students. —The students of the German Universities, while not obliged 
to wear an academic dress, as in those of England, make themselves conspicuous 
by a costume which cannot but arrest the stranger’s attention. This practice, it 
must be allowed, is confined to an exclusive few, who band themselves into 
societies, called LctndmannscJiaften. Caps of odd shapes and various colours are 
adopted by them, according to the different Countries or Languages to which 
they may belong. Very long goat-like beards are cultivated on the chin, set off 
very often with high jack-boots, as an ornament to the feet. Whatever their atten¬ 
tion to learning, no doubt can be entertained of their devotion to beer and pipes ; 
and their favourite resorts are the beer-gardens and public-houses in the suburbs 
of university towns. The custom of duelling , to which they were formerly much 
addicted, is, it is believed, abating among them, and is discredited by the majority, 
being maintained only among the Corps of Landmannschaften, who are also 
the most absurd in their dress. (See Heidelberg, Gottingen, &c.) 

Public Gardens and Taverns. —The outskirts of every German town abound in 
gardens and houses of public recreation, whither the inhabitants, not merely 
of the lower orders, but of the most respectable classes also, repair on summer 
afternoons, and especially on Sunday, to breathe the fresh air and forget the 
cares of business in the enjoyment of coffee, ices, beer, and the never-absent 
pipe. A band of excellent music is not wanting; indeed it forms the great 
attraction, and is usually advertised in the papers for a day or two beforehand; 
it performs for the entertainment of high and low, and the exciting tones of 
the waltz seldom fail to originate a dance, in which the citizens’ wives and 
daughters, with their husbands and sweethearts, whirl round for hours in the 
dizzy maze. 

It is true the time when these places are most frequented, and when the music 
and dancing are kept up with the greatest spirit, is the Sunday afternoon, which 
may, perhaps, shock the feelings of an English or Scotch man, accustomed to the 
rigorous Sabbath-keeping of his own country. A dispassionate examination, 
however, of the two systems, and of the effects produced by each, will probably 
induce him to pause before he gives unqualified approbation and preference to 
that of his own country. 

These places of amusement do not open till after the hours of morning service 
in the churches, and most of the persons who resort to them have previously 
attended a church. A large portion are tradesmen who have been shut up in their 
shops, and artisans who have been working hard, all the week. They come in 
their best clothes, and accompanied by wives and children, who, be it observed, 
arc always made parties in these amusements; they content themselves with 
coffee, beer, or wine, in moderate quantities; spirits are never seen, and instances 
of noisy turbulence and drunkenness are almost unknown on these occasions. 
Such recreation, even with the mir thful exercise of dancing superadded, is surely 
harmless in comparison with the solitary orgies of the pot-house and gin-shop, to 
which the same class of persons but too often devote their Sundays in our country, 
squandering in loathsome intemperance the earnings of the week, which ought to 
be devoted to the wants of the starving and neglected wife and family, who are 
left be'hind in their close and miserable home. 

A certain intercourse and intermixture, also, is kept up between the upper and 
lower classes at these meetings, which cannot fail to have an advantageous influ¬ 
ence in the relation between the different members of German society. The 
artisan does not jostle his superiors, or strive to imitate their dress and appear¬ 
ance, nor is he looked down upon as an intruder by them. All classes, high and 
low, mix together on an equal footing, and without restraint. The fact is, in 


224 


§ 40. PECULIARITIES OF GERMAN MANNERS. Sect. III. 

Germany, perhaps more than in any other country, not only the privileges of 
nobility, but of all grades, are so clearly understood and kept distinct, that all 
parties, however intimate they may seem to be in public, know the exact bound¬ 
aries of their position in society, and act accordingly; hence the noble feels at 
ease, and is conscious that his urbanity will not be abused; and the rest are 
influenced by a similar feeling. 

Kirrnes. —“ The Germans are not ashamed of being pleased with trifles, nor of 
being pleased in very humble company; they think only whether they enjoy; and 
if their enjoyment costs little money and little trouble so much the better. They 
love their old customs and traditional festivals much better than we do, and keep 
to them more faithfully. Formerly, in England, many days were days not only 
of religious observance, but of festivity for the people; and each had its appro¬ 
priate shows and pastimes : but these are nearly all forgotten; and the few which 
are remembered are tinned into days of importunate begging, or coarse riot; and 
the pleasures are such as people of refinement and taste can take no share in, nor 
love to witness: and thus they sink lower and lower, and the chasm between 
rich and poor grows wider and wider, for want of some common enjoyment to 
which the high might give order and refinement, and the low cordiality and sim¬ 
plicity : and such an enjoyment is Kirrnes. 

“ A yearly festival is held in every village, when the poor people, who work 
hard all the year, meet together as on a Sunday, go to church together in their 
gayest clothes, and then make merry and enjoy themselves. It was, originally, 
the anniversary of the day on which the village church was consecrated;—[in 
some parts of Germany it is called Kirchweihe, the dedication of the church;] 
—but as it was found that these anniversaries often fell at inconvenient times for 
the country people, they are, by common consent, held in autumn, just after the 
vintage. At this joyous season the country people are in high spirits, and have 
more leisure and rather fuller purses than usual, and are well disposed to rejoice 
together in the blessing of their harvest. Every morning gay parties walk about 
on those beautiful hills, and those who can afford it dine at the inns, at every one 
of which is an excellent table-d’hote at 1 o’clock; and after a merry dinner and 
a cup of coffee they adjourn to the ball-room. The Kirrnes at considerable vil¬ 
lages draws people from all the towns and villages for miles and miles round; 
the tables-d’hote, as well as the balls, are of several degrees, so that even the 
poorest peasants may sit down to a good and social dinner adapted to then humble 
means. In the small villages there is most likely only one inn, and consequently only 
one table-d’hote; but almost all have more than one ball-room, even though the 
village consists but of a few poor cottages. This ball-room is often a large shed 
without windows, but always with an excellent floor, and a little orchestra at one 
and: and this, when lighted up, and filled with happy faces, and with such a 
company of musicians as many a fashionable assembly in England cannot boast, 
is no despicable scene of festivity. 

******** 

11 1 have nothing to tell you about the beauty and grace [of the rustic dancers], 
except that they had none; they had, however, cheerfulness and perfect absenco 
of affectation, which are always agreeable. The kind and familiar deportment 
of their superiors inspires them with such confidence that they never seem to 
conceive that their innocent pleasures can excite disgust or ridicule; and you 
may be sure they take care not to do anything which may drive away those who 
share in their amusements. * * * The scene of the ball-room was 

one of hearty enjoyment; but I saw not the slightest approach to rudeness, 
indecorum, or drunkenness; it was the merriment of people who feel that others 
have a good opinion of them, and an interest in their comfort.”— A Letter from 
Bonn. 

Travelling Journeymen or Handicerks-Burschcn. —No one can travel along any 


Germany. § 41. german watering-places; 225 

of the great roads in Germany without meeting, almost at every mile, a number 
of young men journeying on foot. The characteristics of the class are, a pipe in 
the mouth without fail, and generally a stick in the hand, with an enormous 
knapsack on the back, from the sides of which a pair of boots are usually seen to 
project. They are often respectably dressed, wearing a blouse (smockfrock), and 
having their hats carefully covered with an oil-skin, so that the traveller is sur¬ 
prised when, as his carriage comes in sight, they take off their hats, and com¬ 
mence begging for alms. These are wandering journeymen; they are often not 
undeserving objects of charity; and a German will generally put a few kreutzers 
or groschen in the cap which is held out, to help the owner on his way. 

By an ancient regulation prevailing very generally throughout Germany and 
Switzerland, no apprentice can obtain his freedom and become a master until he 
has passed a certain number of years in travelling, and in exercising his calling 
in foreign parts. The intention of this is, that he should gain experience in his 
craft, and learn the methods practised in other countries besides his own, as well 
as some knowledge of the world. 

When he first sets out he receives from the corporation or trade to which he 
belongs a book in which he keeps a diary of his wanderings (wanderbuch), and 
in which those from whom he may receive employment also write certificates of 
good and bad conduct. As soon as the novice reaches a place where he proposes 
to stop, he applies to the members of his own trade, and shows his credentials. 
If work is to be had, he takes up his residence till it is finished; if not, he is pro¬ 
vided with clean straw and a roof to shelter him, with now and then the scanty 
pittance of a kreutzer or two from the funds of the guild, and next morning must 
trudge forward on his way to some other place where his services may be wanted. 
It will easily be understood that if work is scarce, and the apprentice have nothing 
of his own, he must often be reduced to great straits, and compelled to have 
recourse to the charity of the more wealthy: fechten, literally to fight, struggle, 
is with the journeymen the slang phrase for begging. (See Gothe’s Wilhelm 
Meister.) 

' Though there are many inducements to idleness in this system, it is not sur¬ 
prising that it produces an intelligent set of tradesmen. The writer of this has 
frequently conversed with common shoemakers and bakers, speaking 3 or 4 dif¬ 
ferent languages, well informed as to the state of most of the countries of Europe, 
and possessing a general fund of knowledge far superior to what is found in per¬ 
sons of the same class in England. 

When the period of their wanderings (wanderschaft) is expired, the apprentice 
returns home, produces a specimen of his skill, and, if it is approved of, receives 
his freedom, and is allowed to set up for himself. 


§ 41. German Watering-places. 

With the Germans an excursion to a watering-place in the summer is essential 
to existence, and the necessity of such a visit is confined to no one class in par¬ 
ticular, but pervades all, from emperors and princes down to tradesmen and citi¬ 
zens’ wives. The number of bathing-places and mineral springs in Germany 
alone now amounts to several hundred : and every year adds to the list names 
which, though seldom heard in England, are not without their little sets and 
coteries. The royal and imperial guests repair to them not merely to get rid of 
the trammels and pomp of sovereignty, though it is universally the case that they 
move about with no more show than private individuals, but they also seek such 

I, 3 





226 


Sect. III. 


§ 41. GERMAN WATERING-RLACES. 

occasions for holding private congresses, for forming secret treaties, alliances, 
See. ; family arrangements and matrimonial connections are also not unfrequently 
there concocted. 

The watering-places in Germany seem naturally grouped according to the vol¬ 
canic soil or other peculiarities of the mountain chains near which most of them 
are situate. The principal groups are the following:— 

A. The Cis-Rhenane Baths, round the Eifel, and its cognate hills the Ardennes, 
viz.—1. Aix-la-Chapelle, or Aachen; 2. Burtscheid, or Borcette; 3. Bertrich, 
near the Moselle ; 4. Kreutznach, on the Nahe; 5. Neuenahr, on the Ahr. 

Spa, the German Spa par excellence, is hardly to he counted, as it is now no 
longer in Germany. 

B. The Baths of the Taunus, round which they circle in Nassau and 
Hesse, viz. — 5. Ems; 6. Schwalbach; 7. Schlangenbad; 8. Wiesbaden; 9. 
Weilbach; 10. Soden; 11. Setters Eachingen (waters); 12. Homburg; 13. 
Nauheim; 14. Wilhelmsbad. 

C. The Baths of Franconia, at the foot of the Rhongebirge, viz.—15. Briick- 
enau; 16. Kissingen; 17. Booklet. 

D. The Baths of the Black Forest, viz.—18. Baden-Baden; 19. Wildbad; 20. 
Rippoldsau; 21. Cannstadt. 

E. The Baths of Bohemia, viz.—22. Carlsbad; 23. Marienbad,—Liebewerda; 
24. Franzensbad, or Eger; 25. Teplitz. 

F. The Baths of Silesia, viz.—26. Charlottenbrunn; 27. Warmbrunn; 28. 
Landeck, county of Glatz ; 29. Reinerz, county of Glatz. (Grafenberg Wasser- 
kur ? Austrian Silesia.) 

G. The Baths of the Alps, viz.—30. Gastein; 31. Ischl; 32. Baden, near 
Vienna; 33. Heilbrunn, Bavaria; 34. Kreuth, Bavaria. 

H. The Baths of Westphalia and Central Germany, viz.—35. Driburg; 36. 
Pyrmont; 37. Eilsen; 38. Hof-Geismar; 39. Neundorf; 40. Rehburg; 41. 
Alexisbad. 

I. Sea Baths, viz.—42. Nordemey, Wangeroog, and Heligoland; 43. Dobbe- 
ran; 44. Travemiinde; 45. Putbus; 46. Swinemiinde. 

Carlsbad, Teplitz, and Bruckenau are the resort of emperors and kings; Baden 
and Ems of grand dukes, princes, and high nobility. Wiesbaden is a sort of 
Margate, whither the overflowing population of Frankfurt repairs on Sunday 
afternoon; whilst other baths, like Schlangenbad, Kissingen, are frequented by 
those whose business is to be cured, and who are strenuously endeavouring, by 
a few weeks of abstinence and exercise, to relieve themselves from the effects of 
over eating and drinking. 

About the end of May the annual migration begins; in June the whole re¬ 
spectable population of Germany may be said to be in motion; July is usually 
the height of the season ; the baths are then crammed, and it is necessary to be¬ 
speak accommodation beforehand. There is but little fluctuation till the end of 
August; then the tide of visitors begins to ebb; but if September be fine, many 
linger behind; and a few remain till the end of October, unless a succession of 
rainy weather put them to flight earlier. 

“ The effect of this natural passion for periodical bathing is, that throughout 
Germany the Kurzeit (curing-time—season) of the baths, about three months in 
the summer, forms that sort of general break up , to use a familar phrase, in the 
system of town life, which the rising of Parliament and the pursuit of partridges 
and pheasants effects in the season of the British capital. The capitals of the 
princes are deserted—court entertainments cease—the ambassadors and general 
officers obtain leave of absence from their posts—‘ the weary statesman ’ quits his 
bureau, and the merchant his counting-house—-and the cumbrous retinue of the 
princes and their courts are put in motion about the month of July for some favour¬ 
ite scene of picturesque beauty—where nature has placed her fountains of health 
amidst the wildest and most beautiful features o': landscape—as if to mark out the 


Germany. $ 41. watering-places, gaming-houses. 227 

spot at once for the solace and invigoration of the sick and debilitated, and the 
recreation and indulgence of the sons of pleasure and of toil. During three 
months all that is distinguished in Germany is busied in the pursuit of health and 
dissipation. Festivity and forgetfulness of care are the general order of the day. 
State and ceremony, and titled hauteur, are in a great degree thrown aside in 
the easy intercourse of the bathing-place ; all ranks meet at the balls, the concerts, 
the saloons, and the wells. The prince and the tradesman lay down their stakes 
side by side at the Rougc-et-Noir table. A princess does not disdain a donkey- 
ride on the mountains, and a sovereign duke may he seen at the table-d’hote side 
by side with a merchant or subaltern officer. Perhaps you will think that 
the mere circumstance of nature having so lavishly bestowed on the Ger¬ 
mans these Ilygeian fountains, with their picturesque scenes, is of itself a suffi¬ 
cient cause to account for the fondness with which they are frequented. But 
other causes will be probably found. The pleasures of a country life are as yet 
almost unknown in Germany ; those mingled pleasures of enjoyment of scenery 
and rural beauties, domestic tranquillity and fire-side comforts, which so many of 
our own poets have enthusiastically described, and which every Englishman 
relishes. With the exception of the chateaux of a few nobles, and the villas near 
a few mercantile towns, a gentleman’s country house is hardly to he seen in Ger¬ 
many. The picturesque scenes, which are so abundant, never appear habited or 
habitable. Nature has here always a character of wildness and loneliness. The 
Germans likewise have no one great capital, possessing all those attractions 
which a metropolis affords. The provincial townsman has no Paris or London 
to fly to for amusement or change of scene. The summer season at the baths is 
thus the great object of desire, the rendezvous of friends, the indulgence to the 
young, and the relaxation of the busy and the care-worn. 

“ The system of the day commences with a bath taken before breakfast. After¬ 
wards follow excursions in the environs, walks in the gardens, visits to the cafes 
and billiard-rooms, and, above all, the pleasures of the Kedoubt, or Grand Saloon, 
which occupy the gay world till dinner, 2 or 3. This last-mentioned place of 
rendezvous is the greatest centre of attraction ; and, with the exception of much 
more gaiety, more avowed vice, and the absence of all pretence at rational 
resources, acts the part of the library at an English watering-place. The Pedoubt 
is a large handsome building, the ground-floor open, with a colonnade in front, 
appropriated to prints, toy-shops, &c. You enter the grand saloon—invariably 
a splendid room. On one side a crowd of motley but well-dressed and gay¬ 
looking persons (of both sexes) are pressing over each other’s heads, round 
large banks of Rouge et Noir. An anxious silence reigns, only interrupted 
by the rattling of the roulette, the jingling of the Napoleons and francs, and 
the titters and jokes of the few whose speculations are a matter of mere frolic. 
The play is frequently very high, but the bank does not refuse the stake of a 
solitary franc. Pretty interesting women were putting down their Napoleons, 
and seeing them swept away, or drawing them in doubled, with a sang froid 
which proved that they were no novices in that employment.”— Autumn near 
the Rhine. 

These German assembly-rooms are usually the property of the sovereign of the 
state in whose territory the watering-place is situated, and the gaming-houses are 
tolerated by him, upon the principle that, as it is almost impossible to prevent the 
scandal altogether, it is better to control it by taking such establishments under 
his own surveillance, and to render them beneficial to the country by levying a 
high tax on them, than to prohibit them entirely. The Licensed Gaming-houses 
at the German watering-places—long a disgrace and shame to the minor princes, 
who not only tolerated them, but derived revenue from them—are about to he 
entirely suppressed and swept away, under the influence of the public opinion 
of Confederated Germany and the Acts passed by the Parliament of Berlin 1868, 
limiting their existence to the year 1872. The Austrian and Prussian govern- 





Sect. III. 


223 § 41. wAtee^g-places. 42. musiG. 

ments, a noble exception, bave for many years prohibited all gaining within their 
dominions. English travellers should be placed especially on their guard against 
the sharpers who haunt the continental watering-places. 

The evening’s entertainment concludes with a ball once or twice a week. A 
gentleman may ask any lady to dance, without the formality of being presented to 
her; but this kind of introduction does not entitle him to approach her as an 
acquaintance on future occasions when he may meet her. 

To be properly enjoyed, a German, like an English watering-place, should be 
visited in company with friends, and there is little society to be found out of 
your own circle ; so that a solitary traveller, after having gazed about him for 
a day or two, will commonly not hesitate to take flight, in order to escape 
from ennui. 

This work does not pretend to describe the medical properties and sanitary 
powers of the various mineral springs; those who repair to them with a view of 
taking the waters or the baths should consult their own physician before leaving 
home. It is also prudent and customary to ask the advice of the physician resi¬ 
dent at the baths as well before commencing a course of waters. 

Physicians' Fees .—The usual fee to a foreign physician, from an English 
patient, used to be 5 fr. a visit, but iimovations spread, and many now exact a 
Napoleon. 

The mode and extent of using the waters, whether internally or externally, can 
only be regulated by a medical man acquainted, if possible, with the case and 
constitution of each person, and decidedly experienced in the qualities of the 
particular waters ; but as a rule the resident physician must be consulted before 
drinking or bathing. 

Those who travel in a party with the intention of repairing to any fashionable 
watering-place, in the height of the season, should not omit to write beforehand 
either to the keeper of some hotel, the bad-meister, or the physician, to secure 
rooms for them, if they wish to avoid the inconvenience of finding, on their 
arrival, that every bed and room in the place are engaged, an occurrence by no 
means unfrequent. 


§ 42. Music. 

“ Music naturally makes too large a figure in the expectations of many pleasure- 
travellers to be passed over here; the more so because what they will find, and 
where they will find it, have not been stated with any completeness, fair com¬ 
parison, or adequate knowledge of the subject, since the days of Burney ; and he 
wrote at a period when German music had hardly taken its peculiar form and 
colour. 

“ The tourist will find an Opera in almost every town; its prices of admission 
moderate, and its performances on the average very good as regards orchestra 
and chorus. The musical establishments of Berlin, Dresden, Hamburg, Bruns¬ 
wick, Frankfort, Cassel, and Hanover, are the most eminent among those within 
the range of this volume. Most of the above theatres are court dependencies, 


229 


Germany » § 42, Music, 

presided over by composers of some note, and implying life-appointments for the 
principal artists engaged. Hence very mature vocalists are a phenomenon more 
common than engaging. Further, the preference of the general public for 
translated Italian or French musical dramas, and the limited number of classical 
German operas which keep the stage (a dozen at most),—add to this the admitted 
disregard of many among the classical composers for the refinements of vocal 
science,—have destroyed the possibility of a school of singing being formed; and 
kept that branch of art at a level, the lowness and unrefinement of which will 
strike ears used to Italian and French execution. One or two of the master- 
works of Gluck, Beethoven, Weber, Mozart, and Spohr, however, in most cases, 
form a nominal part of every theatrical repertory. The summer and autumn are 
generally ‘ the flat seasons ’ of Opera in the large towns,—save in cases like the 
Frankfort and Leipzig fairs, where the managers endeavour to secure some 
great attraction to entertain the concourse of guests expected. The traveller, 
however, has always the chance of encountering some favourite singer or actor on 
‘ a starring ’ excursion ; or, as they phrase it in Germany, playing gastrollen. It 
was not thought strange in recent years for the fanatico who longed to hear any 
particular opera in the theatrical repertory of a given town to advertise his wishes 
in the local newspaper,—of course in a complimentary fashion,—with a fair 
chance of their being acceded to within a few days. 

“ In orchestral music the Germans are generally far in advance of all other 
people. This pleasure too is more easily accessible than in any other country;— 
it is best to be enjoyed in the late autumn and winter, when the world of artists and 
audiences has come home ‘ from the baths.’ The Symphonic Concerts of Berlin, 
and the subscription concerts at the Geicand Haus of Leipzig, will give the tia- 
veller the ‘ true reading ’ of the works of the great German symphonists, and 
afford him also a chance of hearing the best solo players, home and- foreign. They 
are also of a wise brevity, as compared with our more cumbrous and costly enter¬ 
tainments. The ‘ high places’ of chamber-music were recently Berlin, Leipzig, 
and Brunswick, each of which towns possessed a resident quartett of stringed 
instrumentalists, possessing very high renown. But all periodical music is 
more or less interrupted by the fine weather, which tempts the world from 
home. 

“ From June till September the tourist has the chance of falling in with some 
celebration or festival, akin to our own provincial ‘ music meetings,’ but different, 
inasmuch as the chorus mainly consists of amateurs. These meetings are, on 
the average, interesting in the music selected, excellent as regards execution from 
the heartiness, zeal, and patience in co-operation which pervade it, and most 
pleasantly social. It is the fault of bad English manners, if any Englishman, 
having claims on the good society of his own country, finds himself ‘ a stranger 
amongst strangers’ on these occasions—a very slight introduction (and of course 
some power of communication) securing him a good-natured welcome. Those 
who winter in Berlin will of course make an effort to attend the meetings of the 
Sing Academic. This may be called the best and most renowned amateur vocal 
society in Europe, and its members occasionally, for purposes of charity, give 
public performances on a grand scale. Gentlemen, too, will do well to gain 
access to such meetings of the Lieder-tafel societies as may fall in their way. 
These are singing parties of gentlemen only, who execute the part-music of 
German composers with great spirit and energy; both the music and the exe¬ 
cution calculated, by their difference of style, especially to interest those who care 
for glees and madrigals at home. 

“ The orchestra has by a formal decree been banished from the churches of 
'Western Germany; the mass in the largest cathedral is now accompanied by 
the organ alone. The organs in Dresden, in the Sophien Kirche, the Catholic 
Church, and one or two others, built by the Silbermanns, are well worth an 
effort to hear. 


230 § 43. CLUBS AND HEADING-ROOMS. 44. BttRlAL-GROUNDS. Sect. lit. 

“ Lastly, for those who search less scientifically than the traveller to whom 
the above hints are addressed, most attractive cheap music abounds in Germany. 
Almost every town has its Casino or private subscription club; its pleasure 
garden, and other public resorts, to which every one is admitted, where a good 
band, often of wind-instruments alone, may be heard to play good music to good 
company for a very small price of entrance. And these unpretending concerts 
(the very absence of pretension of which is an evidence of popular taste, as dis¬ 
tinct from fashion) are sometimes diversified by very fair quartett singing. For 
the characteristic of German musical execution is, that generally every one 
occupied in its production takes pains in its production because he likes it. In 
most of the above matters the traveller has better chance of gaining available and 
precise information from the landlord of his hotel than in the place where he 
would naturally seek it—at the music-shop. The want of accuracy, and back¬ 
wardness, as regards the amusements of the day, to be complained of on the part 
of those managing the latter establishments, will often puzzle and inconvenience 
a prompt and impatient Englishman.”—//. F. C. 


§ 43. Clubs and Leading-booms. 

In all the principal German towns Societies corresponding nearly with a 
London club, and known by such names as the Casino, Museum, Harmonie, or 
the like, are to be found. “ They are very rational establishments, fitted up 
with a commodious elegance, which make their resources doubly attractive. 
The reading-rooms are stocked with a profusion of journals, reviews, and pam¬ 
phlets, literary and political, from all parts of Germany; besides the French, 
and sometimes English and Italian newspapers. There is often a library of 
books of reference, and a conversation-room, where talkative quidnuncs may be 
relieved from the silence prescribed in the reading-rooms, besides billiard-tables 
and card-rooms, and sometimes a good table-d’hote provided by a restaurateur 
of the establishment. The assembly-rooms, which form part of the edifice, are 
only open on occasions of balls, concerts, and evening societies : to these ladies 
are admitted, and they are kept sacred from the fumes of tobacco, which fre¬ 
quently perfume and tinge the other handsome apartments. The casinos are 
supported by subscriptions,—noblesse and bourgeoisie, including common trades¬ 
men, being alike members. A foreign traveller obtains easy access to them by 
means of his banker, and very often through the landlord of his hotel, and finds 
much sociable respectability, as well as convenience and resources, in them.”— 
Autumn near the Rhine. 


§ 44. German Burial-grounds. 

One of the peculiarities which distinguish Germany from England is the 
different light in which the abodes of the dead are regarded by the living. 


Germany. § 44. german burial-grounds. 231 

Before a traveller completes liis survey of a German town, it will not be unpro¬ 
fitable or uninteresting to visit the public burial-ground—the “ court of peace,” 
or “ God’s Acre,” to give the German names literally translated. In England 
the churchyard is generally a small space in the precincts of the church, which 
is regarded as little else than a passage leading to it; or where it is separated, 
as it happens in many of our populous cities, it is a large enclosure overgrown 
with weeds and rank grass, which -would indicate that it was “by the world 
forgot,” except for the high walls, which serve the double purpose of keeping 
out nightly depredators (almost the only class who take an interest in its con¬ 
tents), and of screening the hateful object from the sight of the rest of the 
world. The French appear to introduce the national frivolity even into their 
burial-grounds, and have given to Pere-la-Chaise the air of a cimetiere omee 
which is hardly befitting the silent city of the dead. In Germany the public 
cemetery is a spot in which the community seems to take much interest. It is 
a place of public resort at all hours,—its gates stand always open. It is planted 
with a few trees, so that its aspect may not be altogether cheerless; but it is 
more thickly planted with crosses, gravestones, and monuments, congregated 
together, thick as a forest, slowly advancing foot by foot, year after year, to 
occupy all the vacant space. The inventions of the mason and carpenter in 
fashioning a tombstone rarely go beyond a cross or an urn, a broken pillar or 
stone sarcophagus; the grave of the soldier is sometimes marked by a sword or 
helmet; but there are other tokens of honour and respect which show a con¬ 
tinuance of attention on the part of the living. Gravestones of various shapes, 
with lengthy epitaphs, are common among us : here, however, the more touching 
and trustworthy symptoms of continued recollection are everywhere observed in 
the fresh chaplet or nosegay, the little border of flowers newly dug, the basin of 
holy water, all placed by the side of the funereal hillock. 

At one end of the enclosure is usually a cloister or arcade, under which repose, 
beneath more sumptuous monuments, the rich and the noble. Communicating 
with it also is generally a building where the bodies of the dead are placed, in 
conformity with a police regulation adopted in most German towns, Within 12 
hours after death. At the appointed time the dead-cart calls at the door of high 
or low; and the only distinction made is, that the former repose in an apartment 
better fitted, hung with black, and lighted by a dismal lamp. 

In this gloomy chamber, the dead bodies, deposited in their coffins, await the 
time appointed for interment. In many places, particularly at Frankfurt, a 
peculiar precaution is adopted to guard against the accident of burial in cases 
of suspended animation. The fingers of the prostrate corpse are placed in 
the loops of a string or bell-rope attached to an alarm clock, which is fixed 
in the apartment of an attendant appointed to be on the watch. The least 
pulsation in the body would give the alarm, and medical aid would instantly 
be called in. 

It is melancholy, but impressive, to walk round the Friedhof until you come 
to the spot where the ground has been fresh turned up; for every inch is disposed 
of systematically, and the vacant space is encroached on only as it is needed. 
Here may be seen the fresh-painted, newly-gilt monument; then the grave on 
which the turf has been replaced, and has not united; beyond it the heap of bare 
mould, the grave of yesterday; and last of all, the open chasm with boards at 
its sides, gaping in readiness for those who are lying stiff hard by. 


( 232 ) 


SECTION IV. 

PRUSSIA—NORTHERN GERMANY—THE RHINE, &c. 

Introductory Information. 

* 

45. Passports. — 46. Custom-houses. — 47. Prussian Money. — 48. Travel¬ 
ling in Prussia ; Posting or Extra Post ; Roads ; Tolls. — 49. Schnellposts .— 
50. Inns. 


Routes. 


(The names of places are printed in 
are described.) 

ROUTE PAGE 

34. The Rhine (B). Arnhem to Co¬ 

logne, by Emmerich, Wesel , 
Oberhausen , Duisburg , and 
Diisseldorf — Railway - 236 

35. Nijmegen or Arnhem to Co¬ 

logne, by Cleves , and Gel- 
dern or Xanten — Rail - 240 

36. Aix-la-Chapelle to Cologne — 

Railroad- - - 242 

36 a. Aix-la-Chapelle to Minden, 
Hanover, and Berlin, by 
Diisseldorf— Railway - 260 

37. The Rhine (C). Cologne to 

Coblenz - - - 260 

38. The Rhine (D). Coblenz to 

Mayence - - - 283 

39. The Ahr Valley — Remagen 

to Ahrweiler and Altenahr - 303 


italics only in those Routes where they 

ROUTE PAGE 

40. The Lower Eifel—Brohlonthe 

Rhine to the Lake of Laach , 
Mayen, and Liitzerath - 306 

41. Coblenz to Treves—Bertrich - 308 

42. The Moselle— Treves to Co¬ 

blenz, by Berncastel , Trar- 
bach , Marienburg , Alf , Co- 
chem \Schloss Elz ], Cobern - 317 

43. Aix-la-Chapelle to Treves - 323 

44. Spa to Coblenz, by Malmedi , 

Hillesheim - 325 

45. The Upper Eifel—Diiren or 

Priim to Gerolstein , Daun , 
and Liitzerath - - 326 

46. Bingen to Treves - - 328 

47. Cologne to Frankfurt a. M., 

by Siegburg and Giessen - 329 


§ 45. Passports. 

Passports are no longer demanded in the Prussian dominions from Englishmen, 


§ 46. Custom-houses. 

The one-headed black eagle, and the alternate black and white stripe on 
toll-bars, doors, and sentry-boxes, invariably announce the Prussian frontier and 
the vicinity of tlm douane (Zollhaus). 




Prussia . 


§ 47. PKUSSIAN MONEY. 233 

The Prussian custom-house system (§ 32) now prevails in the greater part 
of Germany, excepting Austria, and is, down to 1866, administered by Prussian 
officials, even in the states owned by other princes. The examination is strict 
without being vexatious. The Prussian douanier (often an old soldier invalided) 
is above taking a bribe, or rather, government regulates matters so as to prevent 
his taking one. The person offering a bribe is even liable to punishment by 
law. Strangers are treated with invariable civility, provided they conduct 
themselves becomingly. 


§ 47. Prussian Money. 

The Prussian Silver Coins in use are— 

The Dollar (Thaler), containing 30 silver groschen (S. gr.), or 24 gute (good) 
groschen, = about 3s. English. (In Brunswick and Hanover accounts are still 
kept in good groschen).—The Double Dollar. 

The Dollar is divided into pieces of 


Marked 

containing 

English value 

gd, 3 einen thaler - 

10 silver groschen 

- = Is. 

ith, 6 

5 

- = Gd. 

*th, 12 

2 h - 

- = 3d. 

tfh, 24 

gLth, ein silber groschen. 


- = ljrf. 

Copper Money:— 


1 S. gr. 

12 Pfenninge 

- 


Pieces of 4, 3, 2, and 1 Pfenninge are coined. 


Paper Money (Bank-notes), the most convenient, portable, and extensive 
currency in N. Germany, is issued in notes of the value of 1 thaler, 5 thalers, 10 
thalers, 50 thalers, and upwards. As they are often called in, travellers should 
not retain them in their possession, as they might do, for another j ourney, as 
there is no chance of obtaining value for them afterwards. One dollar notes 
(value 3s.) are very useful. 

Accounts must now be kept in Silver Groschen (S. gr.). 

Prussian Gold Coins are- 


Marked 

Double Eriedrichs d’or 10 thaler =11 dol. 10 S. gr. = 1/. 13s. 7 \d. 

Single Friedrichs d’or 5 =5 dol. 20 S. gr. = 16s. 9|c?. 

Half Friedrichs d’or 2^ =2 dol. 25 S. gr. = 8s. 4 d. 

The Silver Dollars of Prussia go through all the states of the Zollverein (§ 32). 
The gold coins and the sub-divisions of the dollar are current in Prussia 
only. 

The coins of one German state (including Austria) are now a legal tender in 
any other. The exchange is fixed at the following scale :—4 Prussian dollars = 6 
Austrian florins = 7 Bavarian or Frankfurt florins. 

The Kassen Scheme of other states do not pass readily in Prussia. 

“ It may be useful to warn English travellers that the values marked on 
German coins are sometimes not the value at which the coin passes. Thus the 
double Friedrichs d’or (not of Prussian coinage), though current at 11 dollars 
10 S. gr., are marked X thaler. 





234 


Sect. IV* 


§ 48. TRAVELLING. 49. SCHNELLPOSTS. 


Average Value of Foreign Coins in Prussian dollars and S. gros.:— 


An English sovereign - 
shilling 

French Napoleon 

piece of 5 francs 
1 franc - 

Dutch "Willem = 10 guilders 
Dutch ducat 

guilder - 

German Kronthaler (crown) 
Conventions thaler 
Bavarian or Rhenish gulden 
Zwanziger, or piece of 24 krs. 


Average. 

Doll. S. gr. 
= 6 20 

= 0 10 

= 5 10 

= 1 10 

= 0 8 

= 5 20 

= 3 5 

= 0 17 

= 1 16 

= 1 11 

= 0 17 

= 0 8 


§ 48. Travelling in Prussia—Posting or Extra-post.—Roads,—Tolls. 

Posting or Extra Post. —A copy of the printed Posting Regulations for Prussia 
may be obtained at every post-office. The traveller will find them very much in 
his favour, and in no country is he better protected against imposition. 

The posting establishments of Prussia are managed by the government, and 
are very well conducted. The postmasters are a respectable class of men, often 
retired officers : in any disputes with postilions, &c., the traveller may generally 
refer to them with safety. At every stage the postmaster must present (without 
its being asked for) a printed receipt ( quittung ), including the charge for horses 
according to the number, for greasing wheels (schmiergeld), ostler (wagen- 
meister), and tolls (Chaussee, Damm, and Brucke-geld), which must be paid 
in advance before setting out. 

Every horse costs 12 A S. gr. per Germ. m. in the provinces bordering on 
the Rhine, and in Westphalia, which is the same rate as in France, but the 
Prussian horses are better. In other parts of Prussia the charge is only 10 S. gr. 
per horse. 

Postilions' Trinkgeld. —The postilion is entitled by the tariff to receive, for 2 
horses, 5 S. gr.; for 3 or 4 horses, S. gr.; and for 5 or more horses, 7| S. gr. 
for each postilion per Germ. m. The postilion is not allowed to ask for anything 
above the tariff, but he expects something extra. In the Rhenish provinces 
they are usually paid at the rate of 1 horse; in Old Prussia they get from 8 to 10 
S. gr. per Germ. m. 

Post Caleches. —Travellers not having a carriage of their own can be accommo¬ 
dated with a caleche (equivalent to our post-chaise), but open, and not equally good 
at every post station. The charge for such a carriage per stage varies from 7 5 to 
10 S. gr. 

Travellers desirous of getting over their ground expeditiously should without fail 
have recourse to the Laufzettel (§ 34). 

Tolls. —In posting, all charges for roads and barriers are included in the post¬ 
master’s ticket, and paid to him—a great convenience. 


§ 49. SCHNELLPOSTS. 

The Prussian mail-coaches are called Schnellposten (§ 35); they are generally 
well managed, being under the direction of the government, and the coach-office 
and post-office are usually in the same building; they go at the rate of about 6 


Prussia. § 49. schnellposts. 50. INNS. 235 

m. an hour on an average, and are on the whole roomy and comfortable vehicles. 
The usual cost of travelling by them is 9 or 10 S. gr. per Germ, m., including 
postilions and everything else. It is entirely optional to give anything to the 
conducteur. The fare must be paid beforehand: a receipt is given in acknow* 
ledgment of it. 

The Prussian coaches have no outside places; and no difference is made in the 
price of the front or back part of the carriage, as is done in France. The places 
are all numbered, and those who apply first have the corner seats. In most 
cases, when all the places in the coach are taken, a traveller will he forwarded 
in a bye-chaise, which starts at the same time, even if there he only one 
person to he conveyed in it. Smoking is not allowed, unless the passengers 
themselves permit it. 

The allowance of luggage is very small—indeed, too small; usually only 30 
lhs. may be taken free of expense, and 20lbs. more by paying for it. The regula¬ 
tions respecting over-weight (§37) are very strictly enforced at the Prussian post- 
offices. Every article is weighed before it is placed on the coach, and a heavy 
charge is made for extra weight. Large wooden boxes are generally rejected, 
and must be sent by the packwagen. The luggage must he conveyed to the 
office one hour before the coach starts, in order to be weighed and packed. Each 
package must bear the name and address of the owner. Great care is taken of the 
luggage the moment it has been consigned to the post-office, and the porters be¬ 
longing to the establishment will convey it to and from the owner’s lodgings at 
a charge fixed by government, and never exceeding 5 S. gr. ( 6d .) 

Throughout the Prussian dominions, at every inn or post-house where the 
Schnellpost stops, a room, called Passagier Stubc, is provided for the reception of 
passengers, where they can obtain such refreshments as bread-and-butter (butter- 
brod), a sandwich, and a cup of coffee. A tariff fixing the prices of refreshment 
is hung up in the travellers’ room, and a control-book is kept for entering com¬ 
plaints should it be found necessary. 


50. Inns, 

Travellers in Prussia are protected by a regulation of the police from the impo¬ 
sitions of innkeepers, who are compelled to hang up in every apartment, or at least 
in the public room, a tariff , or list of charges for lodging, food, fuel, servants, 
valets-de-place, &c. This is inspected periodically by a proper officer, who regu¬ 
lates the price of each article, and ascertains that none of the charges are exor¬ 
bitant. The rule of hanging up the tariff is generally infringed on the Rhine, but 
the traveller may insist on seeing it if necessary. It is a good custom to order 
your bill to be sent in to you every day; it checks imposition and prevents 
mistakes. 

The usual charges are—for a room on the first floor, 15-20 S. gr. to 1 thaler; 
2 nd or 3rd floor, 10-20 S. gr.; table d’hote, 15 S. gr. to 1 thaler; breakfast, 
coffee or tea, with bread and butter, 7-12 S. gr. (beefsteak or eggs, 6 S. gr.); tea, 
8 S. gr.; valet-de-place, 15-20 S. gr., or 1 florin, per diem. 








236 


ROUTE 34. —ARNHEM TO COLOGNE. 


Sect. IV* 


ROUTES IN RHENISH PRUSSIA. 


‘ ROUTE 34. 

THE RHINE (b) : ARNHEM TO COLOGNE, 

BY EMMERICH, WESEL, OBERHAUSEN, 

DUISBURG, AND DUSSELDORF;—RAIL¬ 
WAY. 

* * * For general information respect¬ 
ing the Rhine below Cologne, read 
Rte. 11. 

A steamer leaves Arnhem every day, 
and reaches Cologne in 17 hrs. In 
descending it takes 11 hrs. from Cologne 
to Arnhem and 17 to Rotterdam. As 
there is nothing to see in the lower 
part of the Rhine, it is best to pro¬ 
ceed as far as Arnhem and Cologne by 
rail. 

Railway. Trains 4 daily, in 4 h. 

Duiven Stat. 

Zevenaar Stat. Dutch Custom House. 
Prussian territory is entered before 
reaching 

Elten June. Stat. ( Inn , not good) a 
village with an old abbey. Custom¬ 
house. Here the rly. to Cologne by 
Cleves and Crefeld (Rte. 35) diverges. 

The Rhine is crossed by a steam 
ferry. 

About 8 m. above Arnhem, and 
about the same distance above Nij¬ 
megen, the 2 branches of the Rhine— 
the Waal, and the Lower Rhine, or 
Lek—unite. Before entering the un¬ 
divided stream, it is worth while to 
give some little attention to the hydrau¬ 
lic works erected on the apex of the 
delta. They consist of dams, dykes, 
and jetties, constructed of earth, and 
faced with wicker-work, which are 
thrown up, along the shore or into the 
Rhine, to regulate its course and the 
direction of its waters, the object in 
view being so to distribute its current 
that in all states of its flood, both when 
high and when low, § of the water 
which it brings down may be conveyed 


into the Waal, and only 3 into the Lek. 
It is the duty, therefore, of the water- 
engineers to watch every variation of the 
current and level of the Rhine, and to 
guard against changes, and preserve 
the equilibrium, by constantly throwing 
out new works. These constructions 
are of the highest importance, since, in 
point of fact, the physical existence of 
Holland in a great degree depends on 
them: and had not the necessary pre¬ 
cautions been taken to strengthen them 
in 1774, the country would, in all 
probability, have been overwhelmed 
by the immdations which occurred in 
1784. 

At a place called Aart, a dam is drawn 
across an ancient arm of the Rhine, 
strengthened by the Dutch with thick 
plantations of willows. It is intended 
that this abandoned channel should 
serve as a safety-valve in case of very 
great increase in the waters of the Rhine; 
and by a convention with the Prussian 
government it is settled that, when the 
river attains a certain height at the 
gauge at Arnhem, it shall be allowed 
an outlet through this dam. This is by 
no means an impossible contingency; 
and were it to happen, the dam would 
be washed away in 5 minutes after 
the water had begun to flow over it, 
and a new passage would be opened for 
the Rhine to the sea. 

The frontier of Holland and Prussia 
is marked by the situation of 

rt. Lobith, the station of the Dutch 
custom-house. The steamer, in descend¬ 
ing the river, brings-to here for an Lour 
or more, and is boarded by the officers. 
Opposite Lobith stood Schenkenschanze, 
once a strong fortress, constructed by 
Martin Schenck of Nijdeck, 1586, and 
considered the key of the Netherlands, 
taken by Fred. Henry Prince of Orange 
1636, and by Turenne 1672. It owed 






ROUTE 34.-WESEL. DUISBURG. 


237 


Rhenish Prussia. 

its importance to its position on the 
tongue of land formed by the forking of 
the Rhine, but the river has completely 
changed its bed in the course of centu¬ 
ries, and the separation of the Rhine and 
Waal now takes place considerably 
below the fortress, which has fallen to 
decay, and is now scarcely discernible. 

1. The spires and towers of Cleves 
(Rte. 35) may be seen near this, at a little 
distance from the river. It takes 4 hrs. 
steam to reach 

rt. Emmerich Junction Stat. Inns : 
H. Royal; Bahnhof H., both near the 
Stat., good, comfortable; H.de Holland, 
in the town. This is the first Prussian 
town ; it is fortified, and has a gar¬ 
rison and 7550 Inhab., and considerable 
manufactures. It has a Dutch cha¬ 
racter of cleanliness. At its upper 
end rise the stunted Gothic tower of 
St. AldeguncTs Ch ., which has 3 aisles ; 
at the lower appears the Minster , the 
oldest ch. on the rt. bank of the Rhine; 
choit and crypt Romanesque of 11th 
cent. 

The custom-house inspection of bag¬ 
gage here (§46). Rail to Dusseldorf in 
3 hrs. 

rt. Rees. ( Inn: Krone.) A small 
town with high walls. 

1. Xanten, distinguished by its double- 
spired church (see Rte. 35), lies at a 
short distance from the Rhine, which 
appears to have flowed close to it in 
former times. The ancient bed is dis¬ 
tinctly traceable. 

rt. Wesel Stat. Inn: Dornbusch’s, 
best. This is a fortress of the first 
class, forming the bulwark of Prussia 
on her N.W. frontier; it lies at the 
junction of the Lippe with the Rhine, 
and has 18,500 Inhab. including the 
garrison. 

The Gothic Rathhaus (date 1396) is 
a handsome building: its front orna¬ 
mented with modern statues. The town 
carries on a considerable trade with 
Holland, and its commerce has increased 
since the Lippe was made navigable. 
Much wood and salt are transported 
out of Westphalia by that river. The 
Rhine is here divided into 2 branches 
by the island of Biiderich, also fortified 
by block-houses, and is crossed by a 
bridge of boats. 


A monument has been erected on the 
parade near the Stat. to the Prussian 
officers engaged in Schill’s revolt at 
Stralsund, who were mercilessly shot 
here by the French, 1809. In the 
Ch. porch of St. Willebrod was born 
(1555) Peregrine Bertie Ld. Willoughby 
d’Eresby; his father and mother, flying 
from the Marian persecution, were re¬ 
fused lodgings by the inhabitants of 
Wesel as vagabonds of evil repute. 
The register and an inscription in the 
choir record the event, Wesel never¬ 
theless served as an asylum to many 
English Protestants, its inhabitants 
having early adopted the principles of 
the Reformation. Rapin here wrote 
his History of England, and died 
here. 

1. Immediately opposite Wesel lies 
Fort Bliicher , tete-du-pont of Wesel, 
called Fort Napoleon while it belonged 
to the French. A small town was 
swept away to make room for it, and 
has since been rebuilt about 3 m. off. 

Dinslaken Stat. The Rly. turns 
away from the Rhine. 

Oberhausen June. Stat. (Buffet.) Rlys. 
diverge hence to Hanover, Berlin, 
Leipsig, and all parts of N. Germany; 
also a short branch Rly. runs to 

rt. Ruhrort (Inn, Clever Hof), 
at the opening of the Ruhr into 
the Rhine, is the harbour and port of 
shipment for the coals brought down 
the Ruhr from the coalfield on its 
banks. Nearly 4,000,000 tons are 
exported annually to Holland, Ant¬ 
werp, Mayence, and North Germany. 
There are very large boat-builders’ 
yards here. Near the Rly. Stat. are the 
Iron Works of the Phoenix Co., 6 blast 
and 108 puddling furnaces. Travellers 
bound for Cologne or Berlin will gain 
time by quitting the steamer here, or 
at Duisburg, and taking the railway. 

By means of Armstrong’s hydraulic 
crane, Rly. carriages are lifted into and 
out of a steam ferry-boat, furnished 
with rails, to convey trucks across the 
Rhine to and from 

1. Homberg. Terminus of the Rail¬ 
way from the Rhine to Aix-la-Chapelle. 
(Rte. 36a.) Thus, coals from the Ruhr 
are sent across to Crefeld, Yiersen, 
Gladbach, &c. 



238 


ROUTE 34. —DUSSELDORF. ARTISTS. 


Sect. IV. 


rt. Duisburg Stat. Inns: Post; 
Rheinischer Hof. (Drusiburgum of tbe 
Romans.) A manufacturing town of 
14,000 Inhab., near the Rubr, which falls 
into the Rhine 3 m. below the town. St. 
Salvator's (1415), 1 £ m. distant from the 
Rhine, is a fine ch. The University, 
founded here 1655, was suppressed 1802. 
The Minden and Cologne Railway con¬ 
nects this town with Cologne; trains 
take 2 hrs. (Rte. 66 .) 

The Valley of the Ruhr is distinguished 
not only for its active industry, its coal 
mines, &c., but also for its very pictu¬ 
resque scenery. It deserves exploring; 
the most interesting points being Ho- 
hen Siegburg, Blankenstein, Werden, 
Kettwig, and Muhlheim. 

1. Uerdingen, marked by the poplars 
round it. At Eichelskamp, near this, 
the French revolutionary army under 
Lefebvre, 25,000 strong, first crossed the 
Rhine, 1795, and, by violating the neu¬ 
trality of the Prussian territory turned 
the position of the Austrians. 

rt. Calcum Stat. [l£ m. from this is 

rt. Kaiserswerth, originally, as its 
name implies, an island, long the 
residence of the German Emperors. 
Pepin d’Heristal built here a castle, 
now in ruins ; from which the Emperor 
Henry IV., when a child 12 years of 
age, was secretly carried off from his 
mother Agnes, by Hanno Archbp. of 
Cologne. There still exist remains of 
a more recent Castle , built by the Emp. 
Frederick I. The Romanesque Church 
(13th cent.) contains the silver shrine 
of St. Suibert, an English monk, who 
preached Christianity here in the 8 th 
cent. Here is a remarkable charitable 
institution founded by the late Protes¬ 
tant pastor, Fliedner, consisting of a 
Hospital, Schools, a Penitentiary, all 
under the charge of Protestant dea¬ 
conesses or nurses.] 

rt. Dusseldorf. [Stat.) Inns: In 
the town:—Breidenbacher Hof, very 
good; Hotel Domhardt; Drei Reichs- 
kronen (3 Imp. Crowns). Near the 
Rly.:—*Europaischer Hof (excellent), 
*Prinz von Preussen. Post-office , a hand¬ 
some Florentine building, near the Stat. 

Dusseldorf, capital of the Duchy of 
Berg, from the 15th centy. down to 


1609, then of the Princes Palatine till 
1716, is situated on the rt. bank of 
the Rhine, here about 1200 ft. broad, 
and traversed by a bridge of boats, at 
the junction of the small river Diissel. 
It has 63,389 Inhab., and was a fortified 
town down to the peace of Luneville ; 
but at present is surrounded by gardens 
and pleasant walks in the place of ram¬ 
parts. It is the seat of the Provincial 
Estates, or Parliament of the Rhenish 
Provinces. It is divided into 3 quar¬ 
ters—the Altstadt, with narrow and 
dirty streets; the Karlstadt, and the 
Neustadt, which are the finest quarters. 
It was the residence of the Princes Pala¬ 
tine of the Rhine from 1609 (when they 
succeeded the extinct Dukes of Berg) to 
1716, when they removed to Mannheim, 
and afterwards to Munich. Joachim 
Murat was made Duke of Berg by Na¬ 
poleon, 1806. 

Dusseldorf, though a neat town, con¬ 
tains nothing remarkable at present 
except its school of living artists, who 
occupy the Palace near the Rhine, 
built by the Elector John William, 
whose bronze statue stands in the mar¬ 
ket-place on horseback. The main edi¬ 
fice, with many other buildings, was 
destroyed by the bombardment of the 
French, 1794, save one wing, and has 
only recently been rebuilt. It con¬ 
tained, down to 1805, the famous col¬ 
lection of pictures now at Munich. 
One large painting of inferior excel¬ 
lence, the Ascension of the Virgin, by 
Rubens , was left behind. The old 
pictures which now fill the gallery are 
not good for much. Tasso and the 2 
Leonoras by Carl Sohn is a charming 
modern work. 

There is a very remarkable Collection 
of 1400 Drawings by the old masters, 
including several by Raphael , A. Man¬ 
tegna , Giulio Romano (designs for the 
Palazzo del T.), Dornenichino, M. Angelo, 
Titian , &c. Also 300 drawings in water¬ 
colours, copies of the finest works of 
Italian painters of all schools from the 
4th cent, by Ramboux. Below the gal¬ 
lery is the public Library. 

The Dusseldorf school of painting f 
had its rise after the removal of the 
picture gallery in 1822-1828, under the 
direction of Cornelius, a native of the 



MUHLHEIM. 


239 


Jxhemsh Prussia, route 34. —dusseldorf. 


town (d. 1866), Schadow (d. 1861), 
and Bendemann. In the historical 
branch of art it is particularly strong. 
Every summer, usually in July and 
August, there is an exhibition of 
paintings here by native and living 
artists, which continues open till the 
month of September, after which the 
pictures are dispersed. The studios of 
the artists in a wing of the Palace are 
shown from 12 to 2. 

The Ch. of St. Andrew ( Hofkirche ) 
contains some pictures by Dusseldorf 
artists : in it and the Ch. of St. Lambert 
are several monuments of former princes. 
In the ch. of the Jesuits is a good spe¬ 
cimen of Deger’s painting. It is over 
the altar in the S. aisle, and represents 
the Virgin standing on clouds, support¬ 
ing the infant Saviour. 

The *Hofgarten is one of the finest 
public gardens in Germany, much va¬ 
ried in surface, having groves and 
water, and commanding a good view 
of the Rhine; it is a very agreeable 
promenade. There is a Theatre here, 
and music is very much cultivated. 

Dusseldorf derives its chief import¬ 
ance and prosperity from its situation 
on the Rhine; it serves as a port for 
the merchandise sent from the indus¬ 
trious manufacturing districts of the 
Duchy of Berg. Cottons and cloths 
are brought down hither from Elber- 
feld, iron-ware from Sohlingen, and 
limestone from Ratingen, to be shipped 
and exported. 

English Ch. Service on Sunday at the 
German Protestant Ch., 18, Berger- 
Strasse, at 10£ a.m. 

Pempelfort , in the vicinity of the 
town on the E., was the residence of 
the philosopher Frederick Jacobi, and 
the resort of Gothe, Wieland, Herder, 
Stolberg, and a host of distinguished 
literary men of the last cent. 

The mansion of Count Spee, at 
Helldorf , about 12 m. from Dusseldorf, 
near the Calcum stat., on the railroad 
to Duisburg, contains Frescoes by 
modem German artists of great excel¬ 
lence : — 1. The interview of Pope 
Alexander III. and the Emperor, in St. 
Mark’s, Venice, by Cornelius; 2. Hen¬ 
ry the Lion, the head of the Guelphic 
party, submitting to the Emp. Bar- 


barossa; 3. The Humiliation of the 
Milanese to Barbarossa—both by Miicke; 
and, 4. Barbarossa seizing with his 
own hand the Saracen standard, by 
Lessing ; two other designs by Miicke 
and Lessing. 

Diisselthal , 3 m. from Dusseldorf, is 
a sequestrated Abbey, converted into 
an asylum for destitute children by the 
benevolent exertions of Count von der 
Recke. About 180 children of both 
sexes receive a plain, useful educa¬ 
tion, and are taught some trade by 
which they may maintain themselves. 

Railroads —from Dusseldorf to Co¬ 
logne; trains in 1J h. (Rte. 66 )—to 
Aix-la-Chapelle, by Neuss (Rte. 36a)— 
to Elberfeld, Minden, Hanover, Mag¬ 
deburg, and Berlin (in 9 h.) (Rte. 67). 

The Steamer takes 5 h. in ascend¬ 
ing, 2^ in descending the Rhine between 
Dusseldorf and Cologne. The Rhine 
winds so much as to render the distance 
by water about one-fourth greater than 
that by land. By rly. to Cologne 
takes 1£ hr. 

1. Soon after quitting Dusseldorf 
the steeple of Neuss (Rte. 35) is visible. 
Drusus is said to have thrown a bridge 
over the Rhine here : at present there 
is a flying bridge at Hetdorf. 

rt. Benrath Stat., a handsome cha¬ 
teau, built by the Dukes of Cleves and 
Berg, and inhabited by Murat while 
grand duke, is seen at a distance. 

1. Zons, a town of many towers. The 
river Wupper is crossed. 

rt. Miilheim Junct. Stat., a flourishing 
town. Extensive manufacture founded 
by Protestant refugees from Cologne in 
the 17th centy. Steamers every hour 
across to Cologne. Close to it is 
Stammheim, the seat of Count Fiirsten- 
berg, with its modern Gothic chapel 
near the Rhine. Rail to Etherfeld. 

1. Cologne Station. (Rte. 36). 

In descending the Rhine from Cologne, 
a steamer reaches Arnhem in 12 hrs., 
and Rotterdam in 17 hrs. 



240 


RTE. 35. —NIJMEGEN TO COLOGNE. CLEYES. 


Sect. IV. 


ROUTE 35. 

NIJMEGEN OR ARNHEM TO COLOGNE, BY 

CLEVES, AND GELDERN OR XANTEN. 

Emmerich to Cologne ; rail up the 1. 
bank of the Rhine, 73 Eng. m. 4 trains 
daily, in 4 to 6 hrs. 

[From Nijmegen to Cleves, hy rail 
in 1 hr. 

About 6 m. from Nijmegen the Dutch 
frontier is passed, and the Prussian 
custom-house (§ 46) is reached at 

If Kranenburg Stat. Before entering 
Cleves the road passes through the 
beautiful park called the Thiergarten.] 

From Arnhem. See Rte. 5. 

Duiven Stat. 

Zevenaar June. Stat. Dutch frontier. 
Here the line to Cleves diverges from 
that to Diisseldorf, and trains cross the 
Rhine hy a steam-ferry to 

Elten Stat. 

If Cleves Stat. (Germ. Kleve). 
Inns: Maiwald, S. of the town; *Rob- 
bers, N.; Konig von Preussen. Cleves 
is about m. from the Rhine, hut is 
connected with it by a canal; it has 
9700 Inhab., and is capital of the duchy 
of Cleves, long a disputed possession 
of the house of Prussia. It is built 
upon 3 gentle hills, and perhaps re¬ 
ceived its name from the Latin word 
clivum, a slope. The country around 
is charming from its beauty and fer¬ 
tility, and the pleasing variety of hills 
and valleys clothed with wood and 
verdure. In the centre of the town 
rises the old castle called the Schwanen- 
burg , formerly the residence of the 
Dukes of Cleves, in which the ill-fated 
Anne was born, whom Henry VIII. 
termed a “ Flanders mare,” now con¬ 
verted into public offices. The oldest 
part of it is a massive and pictu¬ 
resque Tower , 180 ft. high, built 1439, 
on the top of a rock, and overlooking 
the country far and wide. There is a 
very extensive view from it. It de¬ 
rives its name of “ the Swan’s Tower” 
from a traditional story of a strange 
knight who appeared to a Duchess of 
Cleves in a vessel drawn hy a swan; 
she fell in love with him, and married 
him, but after 10 years the swan re¬ 


turned and bore him away from his 
wife, who never saw him more. The 
tale forms the subject of one of Mr. 
Southey’s poems. The Ch. (Stiftskirche 
—1345) contains monuments of the 
Counts of Cleves—effigies of Adolph VI. 
of Gueldres and wife, 1394; engraved 
brasses of John I. (1481) and II. The 
Prinzenhof is a handsome building, 
erected by John Maurice Prince of 
Nassau-Siegen, 1663. belonging to the 
Princess of Waldeck : and at Berg und 
Thai, 2 m. off, on the road to Xanten, 
within a grove of trees, is Prince Mau¬ 
rices’s iron tomb. The Thiergarten is 
an agreeable pleasure-ground, contain¬ 
ing a mineral spring, and commanding 
a fine view. There is a fine panoramic 
view from Cleverberg, which is near 
the Hotel zum Thiergarten. 

Cleves is about 4J in. from Emmerich. 
Railway to Nijmegen in 40 min. 

If Goch Stat. 

If Kevelaer Stat. 

If Geldern Stat. Inn: Schwarzer 
Adler, 4668 Inhab. 

Kempen Stat., once a fortress, besieged 
times out of mind, and levelled with 
the dust 1703, by Prussian cannon. A 
fine Pfarrkirche of 13th and 14th cents. 
It is thought by some to be Thomas 
a Kempis’ birthplace. 

1 Aldekerk Stat. 

2j Crefeld June. Stat. (7nns: Ober- 
heims ; Wilder Mann), a flourishing 
town of 54,000 Inhab. (13,000 Protes¬ 
tants), with straight spacious streets and 
handsome houses, which, by their neat¬ 
ness, give to this place all the appearance 
of a Dutch town. It owes its pros- 
perity to the manufactures of silk 
and velvet, which employ 6000 per¬ 
sons. Part of the silk goods intro¬ 
duced into England as French are in 
fact manufactured here, and are equal 
in quality to the French. The annual 
produce of the looms amounts to 

million sterling. 

Railways to Aix-la-Chapelle: — to 
Oberhausen, Ruhrort, and Hanover; — 
to Venloo and Eindhoven. 

Osterath June. Stat. The rly. to 
Essen crosses the Rhine by steam-ferry 
at Rheinhauscn. 

2^ Neuss June. Stat. Inns: Hotel 





Rhenish Prussia. 


241 


ROUTE 35. —CALCAR. X AN TEN. 


Bheinischer Hof. It was the Novesium 
of the Itomans, mentioned by Tacitus, 
In his time it lay close to the 
Bhine, which at present flows 1 ^ m. 
from it. Hrusus threw a bridge over 
the Bhine here. The picturesque 
Cologne gate, still called the Drums 
Thor , is Boman in the lower part, the 
upper being of the 14th cent. : some 
cannon - balls from the batteries of 
Charles the Bold, who besieged the 
town in vain 48 weeks, 1474, have 
been built into it. It has 7000 Inhab. 

The Ch. of St. Quirinus , a splendid 
edifice, appears, from an inscription in 
the wall on the S. side of the interior, 
to have been built in 1208. It, espe¬ 
cially the highly ornamented W. end 
and tower, is one of the most remark¬ 
able specimens of the transition from 
the round to the pointed style. Inside, 
although most of the side arches are 
pointed, the vaulting of the nave is 
round. The cross forming the E. end 
terminates in 3 apses, and is surrounded 
by a vaulted octagon dome. Beneath 
is a fine crypt. Obs. the peculiar form 
of the windows in the nave (W. end), 
aisles, transepts, and dome, which is 
ornamented with some early paintings 
by Cornelius , in chiaro oscuro. Neuss 
is a station on the Bly. from Aix to 
Diisseldorf (Bte. 36 a). 

Leaving Neuss, the Bailroad tra¬ 
verses the abandoned bed of the Bhine. 

2 IIorrem-Dormagen Stat. 

Worringen Stat. (Boman Burancum). 

2 | Cologne Stat., in Bte. 36. 


[The antiquary or architect may be 
disposed to diverge from the rly. 1 . to 
visit 

If Calcar. In the Gothic Ch. (14th 
cent.) are several elaborate altar- 
pieces, choir-stalls, &c., of carved oak, 
representing Scripture subjects and le¬ 
gends, of good execution, the produc¬ 
tions of a school of art which flourished 
here in the 15th cent., when Calcar was 
the seat of a great cloth-trade. Some 
of these are the works of a family of 
carvers named Boegel, who seem to 
have furnished other Bhenish cities 
with similar carved screens, &c. Here 
[n. G.] 


is an altarpiece, the best painting of 
the artist Johan van Calcar. There is 
also a stately Town-hall. Frederick tho 
Great’s general of cavalry v. Seydlitz 
was born here. There is a monument 
to him in the Market-place. 

2 Xanten (7nn, Ingenlath), a 
town of 3600 Inhab., the Castra 
Vetera of the Bomans. The Pra 3 - 
torian camp of Varus, from which 
he led the Boman legions across the 
Bhine, was on the neighbouring hill 
called Fiirstenberg. According to one 
version of the legend, the Emp. Max- 
imian, about 290 a.d., caused St. Ge- 
reon and the Theban legion, amounting 
to 6000 men, to be executed here, be¬ 
cause they had become Christians. 
The scene of this legend is also placed 
at Agaunum, now St. Maurice, in 
Switzerland ; but of course this version 
is not received at Cologne, where the 
traveller may see the bones of the legion 
in St. Gereon’s Church. The Ch. of 
St. Victor, surmounted by twin spires, 
is a beautiful structure of trass (or 
tuff), in the pointed style (date 
1383), except the W. front, pro¬ 
bably built 1128. The whole was re¬ 
stored 1486-1522. The roodloft dates 
from 1400. Over the high altar is tho 
antique silver shrine (enamelled) of St. 
Victor. The Altar of the Virgin is of 
carved oak, like those at Calcar. The 
altarpiece is the best work of Barth, dc 
Bruyn, a Cologne painter, 1534. On the 
S. side of St. Victor is the Chapel of St. 
Michael , the oldest building in Xanten. 
In the churchyard an obelisk erected by 
Napoleon, 1811, marks the grave of the f 
learned antiquary Corn, de Paw. The 
country around affords abundant traces 
of its ancient masters, in the variety of 
Boman antiquities every day brought to 
light. At Xanten stood the castle of 
the Niebelungen, the heroes of the old 
German epic, and here Siegfried, the 
slayer of the dragon, was born, accord¬ 
ing to it. Beyond Xanten the road is 
heavy sand and gravel. 

Xanten is about 15 m. distant from 
Geldern Stat.] 


M 






242 


ROUTE 36. —AIX-LA-CHAPELLE TO COLOGNE. 


Sect. IV. 


ROUTE 36. 

AIX-LA-CHAPELLE TO COLOGNE.— 
RAILROAD. 

9^ Prussian m.=43| Eng. m. 

Aix-la-Chapelle (Germ. Aachen). 
Inns: Grand Monarque (Dremel’s), close 
to the new Bath-house; tables-d’hote 
at 1 and 5;—Nuellens’ Hotel, in a good 
situation, close to the Fountain. These 
are excellent houses, managed by 
Dremel. H. d’Empereur;—Dubigk’s 
Grand Hotel, good and moderate, close 
to the Baths ;—Bellevue, good and well 
situated. 

2nd Class. —Kbnig von Spanien; H. 
Royal; both conveniently near to the 

rly. 

Cab, vigilante, from Stat. into town, 
without luggage, 5 s. gr.; 1 gr. extra 
for every package, box, &c., besides 
trink-geld. 

Aix-la-Chapelle, a town of G8,200 
Inhab. (2500 Protestants), was known 
to the Romans under the name of Aquis 
Granum. The warm springs induced 
that bath-loving people to settle on the 
spot, and remains of their baths are 
constantly found in digging. It is to 
Charlemagne, however, who was born 
here, that the city owes its eminence. 
He died here, 814. He raised it to 
the rank of second city in his empire, 
and made it capital of his dominions N. 
of the Alps, appointing it the place of 
coronation for the kings of Germany 
and of the Romans, his successors, 37 
of whom were crowned here between 
814 and 1531. 

In the middle ages it flourished with 
the privileges of a Free Imperial City, 


and attained great eminence in its ma¬ 
nufactures, especially in that of cloth, 
for which it is celebrated even to tho 
present day. 

It was tho scene of many Diets of 
the Empire, and of several councils of 
the Church ; and in later times it has 
been distinguished by the Congresses 
held here:—1. In 1668, when a treaty 
of peace was concluded between France 
and Spain 2. In 1748, when a gene¬ 
ral peace was signed by the sovereigns 
of Europe; and—3. In 1818, at which 
the Emperors of Austria and Russia, 
and King of Prussia, were present in 
person, and Ambassadors were sent 
from George IV. and Louis XVIII., to 
decide on the evacuation of France by 
the Allied armies. 

After the Peace of Paris in 1815, Aix 
was separated from France, to which it 
had been united by Napoleon, and 
added to the dominions of the King of 
Prussia. The handsome streets and fine 
buildings erected since that event, as 
well as the increase of population, evince 
a return to its ancient prosperity. The 
huge chimneys starting up on all sides, 
and the clouds of smoke, are evidence of 
its rise into importance as a manufac¬ 
turing town. Since the days of tho 
Romans and Charlemagne it has been 
celebrated as a watering-place, and is 
annually frequented by many thousand 
visitors. 

The Hotel de Ville (Rathhaus), in the 
market-place, is a large and somewhat 
imposing building, erected 1353, on the 
site of the Palace of the Frankish Kings, 
in which Charlemagne was born. The 
Tower of Granus , at the E. end, was 
built 1215. The semicircular tower on 
the W. side is the only part remaining 
of 9th cent. The Rathhaus has been 
splendidly restored, and a new stair¬ 
case added. It is remarkable as tho 
place of meeting of the two Congresses 
of 1748 and 1818. In the grand saloon 
(Kaisersaal), on the 3rd floor, are some 
modern frescoes—scenes from the life 
of Charlemagne—by Bethel and Kehren. 
In the Chamber of Conferences are 
numerous portraits of Sovereigns: 
among them the oldest known of Char¬ 
lemagne ; Napoleon, Josephine, Maria 
Theresa. 




Rhenish Prussia, route: 36.— aix-la-chapelle to cologne. 243 


PLAN OF AIX-LA-CHAPELLE. 



BELLEVUE 


'KJUIPP. 


SKVlKlQP.s/.B&MCROmiL 


TEA/f.D 


WE1NCU 


'ANDKAUL.iJB 


PONT .T) 


'■Zg&MARIA BlCFs TPOt 


COLN THU’ 


Korj/c: 


1. Cathedral. 

2. Rathhaus. 

3. Elisenbrunnen. 


4. Post. ’ 

5. Kurhaus. 

6. Police. 































244 


ROUTE 36. —AIX-LA-CHAPELLE. CATHEDRAL. Sect. IV. 


In the centre of the square is a foun¬ 
tain surmounted by the bronze statue 
of the Empr. Charlemagne , erected 1620. 
The Grasshaus in the Fischmarkt, once 
a prison, has a good front with statues 
of the 7 Electors, built 1257-72. 

The * Munster or Bom is one of the 
oldest, if not the oldest ch. in Ger¬ 
many. The nave , an octagon within, 
hut having externally 16 sides, with 
round arches, was erected by Charle¬ 
magne (796-804). It is “ the chapel,” 
after which the city was named. 
He designed it to he a burial-place 
for himself, causing it to be con¬ 
structed in the form of the Church 
of the Holy Sepulchre at Jerusalem. 
It was consecrated by Pope Leo III., 
“ with a ceremony worthy of its splen¬ 
dour ; 365 archbishops and bishops 

were to he present at the solemnity. 
The original church was in part de¬ 
stroyed by the Normans, and repaired 
by the Emp. Otho III. in 983; but 
much of the original fabric still stands, 
of rude masonry, though partly en¬ 
cased, and modernised. The W. porch 
(the core of it), and the solid bronze 
doors, are also old. The brazen wolf 
and fir-cone, on either side of it, 
belonged to an old fountain. 

The position of the Tomb , in which 
once reposed the mortal remains of 
Charlemagne, is marked by a large 
slab of marble under the centre of the 
dome, inscribed with the words “ Ca- 
rolo Magno.” There is no crypt or 
vault underneath, so it is probable the 
Emperor’s body was placed in a sort of 
mortuary chapel, above ground. A mas¬ 
sive brazen chandelier (the candlesticks 
are modern) hangs above it, the gift 
of the Emp. Frederic Barbarossa. This 
tomb-house was opened in 1165, after 
the anti-Pope Paschal III. had made 
Charlemagne a saint. The body was 
found, not reclining in his coffin, as is the 
usual fashion of the dead, but seated in 
his throne as one alive, clothed in the 
imperial robes, bearing the sceptre in 
his hand, and on his knees a copy of 
the Gospels. On his fleshless brow was 
the crown, the imperial mantle covered 
his shoulders, the sword Joyeuse was 
by his side, and the pilgrim’s pouch, 
which he had borne always while liv¬ 


ing, was still fastened to his girdle. All 
these venerable relics were removed, 
and used in the coronation ceremonies 
of succeeding Emperors of Germany. 
They are now deposited at Vienna. 
The throne , in which the body of Char¬ 
lemagne was seated, alone remains 
here: it is placed in the gallery (Hoch 
Munster) running round the octagon, 
facing the choir. It is an arm-chair, 
in shape somewhat like that of Edward 
the Confessor in Westminster Abbey, 
but made of slabs of white marble, 
which, during the coronation, were 
covered with plates of gold. It is pro¬ 
tected by wooden boards, which the 
sacristan will remove to satisfy a 
stranger’s curiosity. 

The arches of the triforium gallery 
are now once more adorned with some 
of the 32 pillars of marble and por¬ 
phyry brought 1 by Charlemagne from 
the Exarch’s Palace at Ravenna, and 
partly from Rome. These were some¬ 
what wantonly removed by the French : 
a part of them only were returned 
from Paris, the rest have been re¬ 
placed by modern pillars given by the 
King of Prussia. In the side chapel of 
St. Nicholas stands an antique Sarco¬ 
phagus of Parian marble, the work of 
Roman or Greek artists, ornamented 
with a fine bas-relief of the Rape of 
Proserpine: the feet of the dead Charle¬ 
magne originally rested in it, within 
his tomb. 

The Choir of Charlemagne was pulled 
down to make way for the present one 
1353. It was finished 1413, “is of 
prodigious height (114 ft.) and light¬ 
ness, having the appearance of a stu¬ 
pendous lantern all of glass.” Its 
windows, 85 ft. high, are filled with 
modern painted glass from designs 
by Cornelius—gifts of Fred. William 
IV. and others. It contains a pulpit, or 
ambo, a gift of Emp. Henry II., covered 
with plates of silver gilt, ornamented 
with antique carvings in ivory, gems, 
and precious stones: this is con¬ 
cealed by a wooden case, which the 
sacristan will remove. The Emp. Otho 
III. was buried in front of the high 
altar. Full musical mass every Sun¬ 
day, at 10 a.m. 

The * Treasury or Sacristy of the 



Rhenish Prussia. route 36.— aix. relics. 


church is very rich in relics. These 
are divided into the Lesser and the 
Greater relics. Among the former are 
the skull of Charlemagne, enclosed in 
a silver case, something like a barber’s 
block, and his arm-bone, both taken 
from his grave. It is recorded of 
Charlemagne that he was of tall 
stature, and this is believed to be con¬ 
firmed by the immense length and 
thickness of this arm-bone; unluckily 
it has been discovered by one whose 
knowledge of anatomy leaves no room 
for doubting the fact, that the bone is 
no arm at all, but a leg-bone , or tibia ! 
The case for the arm was the gift of 
Louis XI. of France, who had it made 
1481. The rest of the bones of Charle¬ 
magne were discovered here, in 1847, 
in a chest, put away in a dark closet. 
Besides these are the hunting-horn of 
Charlemagne, formed of an elephant’s 
tusk; also a locket of the Virgin’s hair, 
and a piece of the true cross, 2 relics 
which he wore round his neck, in his 
grave, as well as while alive. The 
leathern girdle of Christ (on which 
may still be seen the impression of 
Constantine’s seal), the cord which 
bound the rod which smote him, a 
nail of the Cross, the sponge which 
was filled with vinegar, that arm of 
Simeon on which he bore the infant 
Jesus, some of the blood and bones 
of St. Stephen, some manna from the 
Wilderness, and some bits of Aaron’s 
rod, are still preserved here! It was 
upon these relics that the Emperor of 
Germany swore at his coronation. 

In addition to these, this ch. possesses 
the Grandes Reliques, which are shown 
only once in 7 years, from the 10th to 
the 24th of July. The next exhibition 
will take place in 1874. In 1860 up¬ 
wards of 500,000 persons, chiefly pea¬ 
sants, resorted to the exhibition ! These 
relics were presented to Charlemagne by 
the Patriarch of Jerusalem, and by Ha- 
roun-al-Raschid. They are deposited in 
a rich shrine of silver gilt, the work of 
artists of the 9th cent., and consist of 
—1. The robe worn by the Virgin at 
the Nativity ; it is of cotton, 5 ft. long. 
—2. The swaddling-clothes in which 
Jesus was wrapped ; they are of cloth, 
as coarse as sacking, of a yellow colour. 


245 

—3. The cloth on which the head of 
John the Baptist was laid.—4. The 
scarf worn by our Saviour at the Cruci¬ 
fixion, bearing stains of blood. Inter¬ 
mixed with these religious relics are 
many curious antique gems, some Ba¬ 
bylonian cylinders, and the like, which 
serve as jewels to ornament the saintly 
treasury. The * church plate and articles 
of goldsmith’s work, shrines, ampuls, 
reliquaries, crosses, chalices, &c., pre¬ 
served in this sacristy, render it a per¬ 
fect museum, and a real treasure of the 
best period of Gothic art, deserving at¬ 
tention for the inventive skill shown 
in the designs, and the excellent execu¬ 
tion of the ornaments. Those who de¬ 
spise the relics will at least be gratified 
by the sight of the cases in which they 
are enshrined. It is perhaps the 
richest collection of the kind remain¬ 
ing, and gives a vast idea of the 
wealth of the church in former days. 
The most remarkable pieces are 2 large 
shrines of silver gilt enamelled, with 
figures and inscriptions, said to be gifts 
of Otho III. and Frederick II.; the 
golden plates that covered the throne 
of Charlemagne, impressed with figures 
in the Byzantine style; a fine ivory 
cup ; 2 pure Gothic reliquaries of gold, 
of the most beautiful workmanship, 
gifts of the Emp. Charles V. and Philip 
II. of Spain, but evidently of much 
earlier date. 

The plate and the lesser relics are 
shown by the treasurer for a fee of 1 
thaler or 4 fr.; and the throne, sarco¬ 
phagus, and pulpit, by the verger, who 
expects A a dollar from a party. 10 
groschen from a single person. 

On the way from the rly. stat. you 
pass by the Marienhirche belonging to 
the Jesuits into a very handsome 
wide street terminating in the Thea¬ 
tre and the Fountain of Elisa (Elisen- 
brunnen), a fine building with a 
Doric colonnade; it serves the pur¬ 
pose of a pump-room, and has a cafe 
and Restaurant attached to it, and 
a pretty Garden behind. The guests, 
or visitors, repair hither at 7 in the 
morning to drink the water, which, 
though conducted in pipes direct from 
the Emperor’s spring, retains a tem¬ 
perature of 42° Reaumur. A band 




246 


Sect. IV. 


route 36. —aix. 

of excellent music plays at tlie spot 
from 7 to 8 a.m. until the end of 
September, which is considered the 
close of the season. 

The Mineral Springs of Aix rise in the 
centre of the town; they are of 2 classes: 
the upper, which is the hottest; the 
lower, which are cooler. In the first 
class the principal spring is the Source 
de V Empereur , at the upper end of the 
street called Biichel, where is an ex¬ 
tensive Bathing Establishment , called 
Kaisersbad. This spring contains a 
larger quantity of sulphur than any 
other known in Europe ; and when the 
vapour arising from it is confined, and 
not allowed to escape, it deposits crys¬ 
tals of sulphur. It has a temperature 
of 181° Fahr., and owes its disagree¬ 
able taste to the presence of supersul- 
phuretted hydrogen gas. According to 
Liebig’s analysis these springs contain 
iodine and bromine. These waters are 
efficacious in chronic cutaneous diseases, 
chronic rheumatism, gout, the effects of 
metallic poisons, in certain cases of 
neuralgia, and in lymphatic and stru¬ 
mous swellings and ulcers. The Em¬ 
peror’s spring supplies—2. The Bain 
Neuf , in the Biichel, comfortable, and 
better lighted than No. 1.—3. Bain de 
la Heine d’Hongrie , in the Edelgasse 
(new). The less hot Quirinus spring 
supplies the Bain St. Quirin, having 
only 38° Reaumur. 

The baths supplied by the lower 
spring, situated in the street called 
Comphausbad, are—1. Le Bain de la 
Rose. —2. Bain St. Cornell. —3. Bain St. 
Charles. —4. Armenbad , appropriated to 
the use of the poor. 

Besides the warm spring there are 
also sources of chalybeate water, to re¬ 
ceive which a Bath-house and Hotel 
arc erected in the Theatre Strasse. 

The bath-houses are the property of the 
town, and are let to tenants: they contain 
lodgings, and are pretty much on a par. 

The Kurhaus (No. 10), in the Comp- 
haus-Bad-Strasse. The grand suite of 
rooms is devoted to the use of visitors. 
Here is a reading-room, supplied with 
English and foreign newspapers; open 
10 a.m. unto 11 p.m. ; Admission , 7^ 
groschen a day ; ball-room and refresh¬ 
ment rooms. The band plays in the 


SPRINGS. BATHS. 

adjoining garden from 3 to 4J? daily. 
Every Saturday here is a ball pare, 
commencing at 85. It is usual to 
subscribe to the Kurhaus for a month, 
or for the season. This building was 
formerly-the Redoute. In the garden 
is the New Music Hall. 

Portions of the ramparts remain, of 
14th and 15th cent., and 2 old gateways. 
Pont Thor , on the N., retains its bar¬ 
bican, and Marschier Thor , near Cologne 
Terminus, is a small mediaeval fort, 
with grooves for portcullis, a hall on 
the upper floor, and dungeon below. 

The Manufacture of Cloth , the most 
important in Aix-la-Chapelle, employs 
more than 14,900 persons, who work 
either in the 48 factories in and around 
the town, or at their own houses. In 
17 needle manufactories employment is 
found for 1500 persons. There are 
several manufactories of steam engines, 
spinning machinery, &c. 

II. Benrath has a well-furnished 
library and music-shop. 

Physicians: Dr. Wetzlar, Dr. Brandis, 
Dr. Diemer, Dr. Strater, Dr. Reumont, 
and Dr. Velten, jun., all speak English. 

Chemist: Weidcnbach, 94, Coiner 
Strasse. 

Post Office: 23, Jacob Strasse, near 
the Town Hall. 

English Ch. Service is celebrated on 
Sunday, at 12 and 7, in the ch., 21, 
Anna Strasse. 

Lovers of music will easily gain 
admission to the Liedertafel Saturday 
Evening Concerts, and those of other 
societies. 

The Boidevard, above alluded to, is 
a pleasant promenade, occupying the 
place of the levelled ditch and walls of 
the town, prettily laid out, shaded by 
fine trees. 

The Environs of Aix abound in beau¬ 
tiful walks. A pleasant walk of § m. 
from the gates of Aix leads by an 
avenue of trees to 

Borcette (Germ. Burtscheid), a small 
town of 5000 Inhab. and a watering- 
place. On the way the noble viaduct 
is passed, which carries the Cologne 
railway (see below) over the valley of 
Burtscheid. Persons intending to take 
the waters, and desiring retirement, 
will find this a less expensive place of 






247 


—AIX. RAIL TO COLOGNE. 


Rhenish Prussia. route 36 . 

residence than Aix. Inns: H. St. 
Charles, Bains tie la Bose, good;— 
Bain do l’Epee, hoard and lodging 5 fr. 
per day. 

The principal source, called Fontaine 
bouillante , Ivochbrunnen, is hotter than 
any at Aix (179° Fahrenheit) ; it re¬ 
sembles the Aix waters in its contents, 
but, while they are nauseous from the 
taste of sulphur, this is almost tasteless : 
all that can be detected is a slightly 
saline flavour, by no means disagree¬ 
able. It rises in the open air in the 
middle of the principal street. Burt- 
scheid also contains springs of saline 
water not unlike that of Wiesbaden. 
The hot springs are so copious that the 
rivulet formed by the union of them 
runs warm;—dcr warme Bach. 

Walks , Drives, and Excursions .— 
a. N. of Aix, on the opposite side to 
Borcette, £ m. beyond the Pont Thor, 
or Sandkaul Thor, is the hill called the 
Lousberg , 200 ft. high, planted and laid 
out in winding walks, surmounted by 
an obelisk, raised for trigonometrical 
pin-poses, commanding a beautiful view 
of Aix, of the line of the Bailway, and 
along the rich valley (Soersthal) strewn 
with country-houses, coal-pits, &c. 
The white pilgrimage church on the 
Salvatorsberg is a conspicuous object; 
The summit of the Lousberg may be 
reached in | hr. by an easy carriage- 
road. On the lower slope stands a 
Cafe, commanding a noble prospect. 

The Hospital on the Boulevard, near 
the Cologne gate, stands in a garden 
of 30 acres well laid out. 

b. An agreeable drive of 3 m. along 
the Burtscheid road, and by the 
Bonheid Stat., leads to Carlshohe, 
pretty grounds on a thickly wooded 
ridge, laid out with walks. 

c. The Frankenberg, described next 
page, 1 m. distant from the theatre, 20 
min.’s walk from the Bhine Bailway 
Stat. 1 m. further is the wood of Drim- 
born, a grove whose refreshing shade 
is resorted to in the summer heats. 

d. About 2 m. out of Aix, on the rt. of 
the post-road to Cologne, is the chateau 
of Kalkofen, in which General Eliott, 
the bravo defender of Gibraltar, died. 

e. About 7 m. S.W. of Aix., near 


the great railway viaduct over the Geul, 
is an old castle on a height, called 
Emmaburg, from the daughter of Char¬ 
lemagne, who ran off with his secre¬ 
tary Eginhard. Near it are calamine- 
mines and zinc-works of the . Vicille 
Montagne Company. 

Carriages for hire are expensive at Aix; 
25 gros. an hour for a drive within 
5 m. distance from the town, with pour 
boire to driver. There are omnibuses 
at the railway, § 21. Vigilante (cab) 
from stat. into town, with luggage, 
5 s. gr. 

Schnellposts (§50) to Treves (Bte.43), 
and to Jiilich. 

Railroads —to Cologne; to Liege 4 
times a-day; to Brussels and Antwerp 

3 times, and to Ostend twice a-day, in 7 
hrs.; to Antwerp direct by Maestricht, 

4 hrs. rail; to Diisseldorf, Hanover, 
and Berlin (Bte. 36 a); to Paris twice a 
day, express in 9^ hrs. 


Railroad to Cologne , 434 Eng. m.; 
trains 4 times a-day in If to 2 hrs. 

The terminus stands midway between 
Aix-la-Chapelle and Borcette. A noble 
Viaduct , 892 ft. long and 70 ft. high in 
the centre, consisting of 2 tiers of 15 
small and 20 large brick arches, carries 
the railway from the station across the 
narrow valley of the Wurmbach, in 
which Borcette is built. A good view 
is obtained, a little beyond it, of Aix- 
la-Chapelle, and the Lousberg behind. 

(1.) Close by the side of the railway, 
1 m. from Aix, stands the Castle of 
Frankenberg , an ivy-clad and ruined 
tower of considerable antiquity, to 
which a more modem edifice (date 
1642) is attached, surrounded by a pool 
of water, once a lake. Charlemagne is 
said to have founded and inhabited a 
castle on this spot; and here, accord¬ 
ing to the legend, died his beloved 
queen Fastrada. He caused her body 
to be enclosed in a coffin of glass, 
and never quitted it day or night, 
neglecting the concerns of his empire, 
and abandoning himself wholly to grief, 
until Turpin the Wise, watching one 
day until he slept, opened the coffin, 







248 


Sect. IV. 


ROUTE 86.—stolberg. duren. 


took off the golden wedding ring from 
the dead queen’s finger, threw it into 
the castle moat, and thus released the 
emperor from the spell of sorrow. Here 
is a cafe and restaurant. 

(1.) The village Nirm is seen just 
. before we enter the cutting leading to 
the Nirmer Tunnel , 327 yards long, 
which carries the railway through the 
basin of hills which surrounds Aix. 
Traversing a beautiful wood called 
Reichswald, we reach 

1*35 rt. Stolberg Stat. (Bissels and 
Welters Inns.) Stolberg, a manufac¬ 
turing town of 3000 Inhab., lies about 
3 m. S. of this, up a valley studded 
with mills, forges, and country seats. 
The town is surmounted by a pic¬ 
turesque old castle on the top of the 
hill. The principal manufacture is that 
of brass, and the conversion of it into 
wire, &c. In the large glass-works a 
million square feet of looking-glass are 
made in a year. Zinc, coal, iron, lead, 
and silver are obtained from mines in 
the vicinity. 

The district traversed by the railway, 
and in which Stolberg lies, is a pro¬ 
ductive coalfield, supplying numerous 
manufactories of iron and glass, &c. 
It is scattered over with houses, steam- 
engines, and chimneys. 

1. and rt. The village Eschweiler- 
Pumpe, which includes extensive iron¬ 
works, is inhabited chiefly by coal¬ 
miners, and receives its name from the 
steam-engines used to pump water out 
of the coal-mine near to which the rail¬ 
road passes. Excellent coal is furnished 
hence, and is much used by the steam¬ 
boats on the Rhine. Some of the shafts 
are more than 1000 ft. deep. 

After crossing the Inde, the small 
stream flowing out of the vale of Stol¬ 
berg, a second tunnel of no great length, 
driven through the rock of the Ichen- 
berg in a curve, brings the railroad to 

•43 1. Eschweiler stat. Inn: Post. 
This is an industrious town of 3600 
Inhab., on the Inde, having manufac¬ 
tures of silk, iron, wire, &c., and an old 
picturesque castle close to the railway, 
on the 1., restored in the ancient style. 

The fortress of Jiilich is about 9 m. 
from this stat. 

We next pass 1. the old Castle of 


Nothberg, flanked by 4 round towers. 
From the top of a high embankment a 
good view is obtained of the pleasing 
vale of the Inde, which is finally con¬ 
cealed by the sides of the deep cutting 
leading to 

l 1 05 Langerwehe Stat. A viaduct of 
7 arches conveys the railroad over the 
vale of the Wehe beyond this stat. On 
the rt., after coming out of the cutting 
beyond this, lie the village and castle 
Merode, with 4 towers at the angles, 
2 high and 2 low, capped with irregu¬ 
larly shaped spires. This is the cradle 
of a family still existing in Belgium, 
one of whose ancestors, in the 30 years’ 
war, was leader of a free corps in the 
Imperial army, distinguished above all 
others for its insubordination, habits of 
plunder, and brutality. The name 
“ Merodeurer” became a by-word for 
a plunderer, and a name of terror so 
widely understood, that it has been 
adopted even in our own language in 
the word “ marauder,” properly applied 
to undisciplined soldiers, who desert 
their corps to steal. 

The railway is carried through the 
midst of the village Dhorn, and a little 
to the 1. of Giirzenich, before it crosses, 
by a bridge of 6 arches, the Rocr, a 
river well known in strategic history, 
especially in the revolutionary French 
campaign of 1792-3. 

Less than 1 m. beyond the Roer lies 

1*25 Diiren Junct. Stat. — Inn: 
Bellevue, near the railway. Diiren 
(Marcodurum of Tacitus) has 8000 
Inhab., devoted to manufactures, the 
chief of which are of cloth and paper. 
The Church of St. Anne , with a high 
tower, possesses the head of that saint 
enclosed in a strong box. A Protestant 
churcb has been built. Charles V. 
was nearly killed by a shot fired from 
the walls by a townsman, as he was 
besieging Diiren, which he took and 
destroyed, after an obstinate resist¬ 
ance, with 61,800 men, 1543. [A 
branch rly. ascends the valley of 
the Roer by Yettweis Stat. Not 
far oft' is the picturesque village 
Nicdeggen, 8 m. S. of Diiren, on a hill 
crowned by ruins of the Castle in 
which Engelbert Archbishop of Cologne 
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Wienish Prussia. 


ROUTE 36.— COLOGNE. 


249 


ing an extensive view—10 m. Ziilpich 
St at., the battle-field of Tolbiacum, 
where Clovis defeated the Alemanni, 
a.d. 496, and, becoming a convert to 
Christianity, was baptized, it is said, in 
the font still preserved in the venerable 
crypt under the parish church. The 
rly. is carried to Euskirchen, Mecher- 
nich, and Call. It is to be carried to 
Treves, past Gcrolstein and Kyllberg.] 

A cutting nearly 3 m. long carries 
the railway through the high ground 
which separates the basin of the Meuse 
from that of the Rhine. It terminates 
a little way short of 

1-25 Buir Stat. 

The railroad is carried by a high 
embankment over the lowlands of the 
valley of the Erft, which river is crossed 
on 3 bridges a little before reaching 

T5 Horrem Stat. 

1. Beyond the village rises the Castle 
of Frenz, whose ancient owners were 
descended from one of the 15 noble 
families of Cologne who traced their de¬ 
scent from colonists established in that 
city by the Emperor Trajan, a.d. 108 ! 

The railway passes from the valley 
of the Erft into that of the Rhine by 
the Konigsdorfer Tunnel , 1 m. long, 
carried through a hill of sand 136 ft. 
below the summit, and lined with brick. 

*67 Konigsdorf Stat. 

1. Sec the spire of Brauweiler, a 
large Benedictine convent, now a Peni¬ 
tentiary. In the fine Ch. (13th cent.) 
is an engraved monumental slab, and 
some old fresco paintings on the roof. 

Close beyond this the high road from 
Cologne to Jiilich is crossed. 

'88 Mungersdorf Stat. 

A fine view is presented of Cologne, 
with its many towers and steeples; 
conspicuous among which rises the oc¬ 
tagon of St. Gereoh. Just where the 
railroad arrives abreast of the walls, it 
passes (rt.) one of the detached forts, 
half-buried towers, surrounded by trees 
like an island in the open plain, each 
capable of mounting 100 guns, forming 
, part of the defences of the city, and a 
second, on the 1 ., shortly before reach- 
, ing the 

•95 Cologne Terminus, or Central 
Railway Stat., in the heart of the 
city, near the Dom. Buffet at the stat. 


Omnibuses to the several hotels. Cabs 
(German Droschken) stand for hire. 

Cologne (Germ. Coin, Dutch Keu- 
len). Inns: In the middle of the 
town are—the **IIotel Disch, Briicken 
Strasse, excellent; Mainzer Hof, near 
the Post-office, good; * Hotel du Nord, 
near the Cathedral and Rly. Stat., first 
rate; H. Victoria, well managed and 
furnished, on the Heumarkt. On the 
Rhine Quay, close to the steamers, are 
— Hollandischer Hof; Grand Hotel 
Royal, very good; Hotel de Cologne; 
Rheinischer Hof, clean and well con¬ 
ducted; table-d’hote at 1*15, 24 S. gr., 
much frequented by English; Wiener 
Hof. 2 nd class: H. du Dome, near 
Central Rly. Stat.; H. Kleff, ditto; 
Laacher Hof. 

Inns in Deutz, on the opposite side 
of the Rhine : ** Hotel de Bellevue, 
excellent, commanding from its front 
windows a fine view of Cologne, 
and not far from the station of the 
Minden, Hanover, and Berlin Railway; 
Prinz Karl. These inns have gardens 
overlooking the river, in which there 
is commonly music every evening in 
summer. 

Cafe and Restaurant, St. Paul, near 
the Central Bahnhof. 

j Droskies (cabs). Fares: for 1 or 2 
persons, 5 S. gr., for 3 persons 7^, for 
4 persons 10, for a drive within the 
walls. The fare is double to Deutz, 
and the Coln-Minden Stat., with the 
addition of a bridge toll of 6 S. gr. 
Luggage extra. Tariff of prices is hung¬ 
up in every cab. 

Rost Office, 25, Glockengasse. Tele¬ 
graph, Cacillenstrasse. 

Cologne the largest and wealthiest 
city on the Rhine, and a free port, is a 
fortified place on the 1. bank of the 
Rhine. Pop. 125,172 (14,000 Protest¬ 
ants, 7500 soldiers), including Deutz, 
its suburb, and Tete de Pont, on the rt. 
bank, with which it is connected by a 
boat bridge 1400 feet long, and by 
a handsome permanent double iron 
lattice Bridge for railway and carriage 
traffic, crossing the river on a line with 
the Dom. Its length is 1352 ft.; it 
rests on 3 piers, 313 ft. apart, calcu¬ 
lated to resist the floating ice of win¬ 
ter, supporting 4 iron lattice spans of 

H 3 







250 ROUTE 36. —COLOGNE. HISTORICAL ASSOCIATIONS. Sect. iV. 


344 ft. 6 in. each. The carriage and foot 
way over it is approached from the 
Franken-Platz, E. of the Dorn. It was 
begun 1855, and finished 1859. At the 
Cologne end is a statue of the late 
King Friedrich Wilhelm, and at the 
Deutz end an equestrian statue of the 
present King. 

Cologne owes its existence to a camp 
pitched here by the Romans, under 
Marcus Agrippa, which was afterwards 
enlarged and rendered permanent by 
the removal, under Tiberius, of a native 
tribe, called the Ubii, from the rt. bank 
of the Rhine (Tacitus, Ann. I. 36), and 
their settlement at the spot now occu¬ 
pied by Cologne. This first city was 
called Civitas Ubiorum. More than 80 
years after, Agrippina, mother of Nero, 
sent hither a colony of Roman veterans, 
and gave to it her own name, calling it 
Colonia Agrippina. A part of its ancient 
appellation is still retained in the modern 
name of Cologne. 

Cologne abounds in historical asso¬ 
ciations. Traces of the possession of 
this city by the Romans remain, not 
only in various fragments of walls, 
originally part of the outer defences, 
though now far within the city, and in 
the numerous altars, inscriptions, coins, 
«fec., which come to light almost wher¬ 
ever the ground is turned up, but even 
in the features and complexions of its 
inhabitants, who are said to betray 
their hereditary blood, and to differ 
considerably from their German neigh¬ 
bours. The inhabitants were so proud 
of their Roman origin, that up to the 
time of the French revolution the 
higher citizens styled themselves patri¬ 
cians— the 2 burgomasters wore the 
consular toga, and were attended by 
lictors—while the town banners bore 
the pompous inscription S. P. Q. C. 
The foundations of the Roman walls 
may be traced in the very heart of the 
present city through the street Auf der 
Burgmauer, by the Zeughaus—by the 
Klarenthurm , a tower of brick in opus 
reticulatum , called Roman, though really 
a work of the Franks, but standing on 
the Roman wall; thence through nu¬ 
merous gardens past the Apostles’ ch. 
to the Lach, where is another so-called 
Roman tower, and the Marsilstein; 


thence eastward to St. Mary’s Church, 
where the capitol stood; thence past 
the Rathhaus, which occupies the site 
of the Roman Praetorium, to the Dom. 

The existing outer Walls of Cologne 
present one of the most perfect exam¬ 
ples of the fortifications of the middle 
ages, with picturesque flanking towers 
and gate-houses. They were built be¬ 
tween the 12th and 15thcent., the greater 
part about 1185. The extent of Cologne 
along the bank of the Rhine, from the 
tower at the upper end called the Bayen- 
thurm, down to the small tower at the 
lower end called the Thurmchen, is 
about 2rr Eng. m., and the extent round 
the wall on the land side between these 
same towers is about 4^ Eng. m. 

Agrippina, mother of Nero, was born 
here, in the camp of her father Ger- 
manicus; Trajan here received the 
summons to assume the Imperial pur¬ 
ple ; Vitellius and Sylvanus were pro¬ 
claimed Emperors of Rome on the spot, 
and the latter was murdered in the 
Capitol. At a later period, 508, Clovis 
was declared king of the Franks at 
Cologne. From the middle of the 12th 
nearly to the end of the 15th cent., 
Cologne was the most flourishing city 
of Northern Europe, one of the chief 
emporiums of the Hanseatic League, 
concentrating the trade of the East, 
and keeping up a direct and constant 
communication with Italy. From this 
connection, not only the productions, 
but also the arts of the East, were at 
once transferred to the then remote 
West of Europe. The architecture of 
many of the oldest churches is identical 
with that of Italy, and there is some 
similarity between the paintings of the 
early Italian and Rhenish schools ; it is 
even probable that the Southern school 
of art was indebted'to the artists of the 
North for some portion of its excellence. 

“ In the middle ages, from its wealth, 
power, and the considerable ecclesiasti¬ 
cal foundations of its bishops, it was 
often called the Rome of the North.”— 
Hope. Another relic of the ancient al¬ 
liance with Italy is the Carnival , which 
is celebrated here, and nowhere else 
in the N. of Europe, in the same 
manner, and almost with as much spirit 
and pomp of masquerading, &c., as in 











251 


ROUTE 36.—COLOGNE. COMMERCE. 


Rhenish Prussia. 

Rome or Venice. The procession of 
masks is tolerated even in the streets 
here, and in one or two other towns of 
the Rhenish provinces, as an ancient 
custom. Another amusement common 
in Italy, hut found nowhere in Ger¬ 
many but at Cologne, is the Puppet 
Theatre (Puppen Theater — Hennes- 
chcn), Blind - Gasse, near the Hay- 
market, where droll farces are per¬ 
formed by dolls; and the dialogue, 
spoken in the patois of the country, 
and full of satirical local allusions, is 
carried on by persons concealed behind 
the scenes. 

Cologne has an interest for the Eng¬ 
lishman, from various associations. 
William Caxton settled here, 1470, and 
here learned the art of printing, which 
he speedily transferred to his own 
country. 

In 1259 Cologne obtained the staple 
right by which all vessels were com¬ 
pelled to unload here, and ship their car¬ 
goes in Cologne bottoms. The Cologne 
merchants enjoyed important privileges 
in England; Henry VI. granted them the 
exclusive use of the hall of the Steelyard 
in London. After its period of pros¬ 
perity and splendour, during which the 
city could send forth 30,000 fighting 
men, came the season of decay. Com¬ 
merce took a new route across the con¬ 
tinent of Europe, and Cologne fell under 
the blighting domination of priests. 
Almost uninterrupted feuds arose be¬ 
tween the free citizens, bent on main¬ 
taining their privileges, and the arch¬ 
bishops, intent on reducing them to 
serfage, so that in 1262 Archbishop 
Engelbert removed first to Briihl, and 
afterwards to Bonn. The uncontrolled 
sway of bigoted ecclesiastical rulers, 
on 3 occasions, marred Cologne’s pros¬ 
perity, and finally completed its down¬ 
fall. The first injurious act of into¬ 
lerance was the persecution and expul¬ 
sion of the Jews, 1425; the second, 
the banishment of the weavers; and 
the third, the expatriation of the Pro¬ 
testants, 1618. The injury done to the 
city by these arbitrary acts is best 
proved by the desolate condition to 
which they reduced it, contrasted with 
the increasing prosperity of Crefeld, 
Venders, Elberfeld, Diisscldorf, Miihl- 


heim, Solingen, and other places, in 
which the exiles, victims of these per¬ 
secutions, who were almost invariably 
the most industrious and useful citizens, 
settled themselves. During this period 
the number of churches and convents 
multiplied enormously. Cologne is said 
to have had as many steeples as there 
were days in the year. Before the 
French Revolution the number of 
buildings devoted to religious uses was 
200 ; she is now content with 29, but 
many of the buildings remain, applied 
to the secular purposes to which the 
French first turned them. 2500 of 
the inhab. were ecclesiastics; and more 
than twice that number were beg¬ 
gars, who subsisted principally on the 
monks. The French revolution nowhere 
created a greater change than here; the 
rich foundations were all plundered, 
the convents secularised, the churches 
stripped, and converted into warehouses 
and stables. 

Since 1830 trade has greatly re¬ 
vived ; improvements have followed in¬ 
creasing prosperity, and the town has 
thrown off the dirty and gloomy appear¬ 
ance for which it was notorious. Many 
of the streets have been widened and 
paved, new streets and houses built, and 
old ones repaired; and some of the tho¬ 
roughfares boast of traffic, shops, and 
crowds like those of London. A large 
portion of the space enclosed within the 
walls, formerly the fields and gardens 
of conventual houses, is rapidly be¬ 
coming covered with buildings. 

One of the leading causes of the de¬ 
cline of the prosperity of Cologne in the 
16th cent, was the closing of the na¬ 
vigation of the Rhine by the Dutch. 
This restriction was removed in 1837, 
pursuant to treaty, and Cologne now 
trades directly with the countries be¬ 
yond sea. Seagoing vessels are con¬ 
structed here, and lie alongside a 
quay lined with bonded warehouses, 
which has been built just below the 
bridge. The transport of corn and 
Rhenish wine down the Rhine, and into 
the neighbouring countries of Holland, 
Belgium, and Westphalia, employs a 
great many vessels and persons. There 
are considerable sugar refineries here. 

The yearly increasing prosperity, fos- 







252 


Sect. IV 


ROUTE 36.—COLOGNE. CATHEDRAL. 


tered by the long peace, and aug¬ 
mented by the convergence to this 
point of the Railroads from Paris, Ant¬ 
werp, and Berlin have caused Cologne 
again to raise her head high among 
the chief cities of Europe. This huge 
carcase of ruined buildings and vacant 
enclosures, revived by increasing wealth, 
is swelling out into its former propor¬ 
tions, and flourishing both in population 
and industry. 

Plan of a Walk through Cologne. 

The objects of interest being spread 
over a wide space, the following plan 
may be useful to the stranger :— 

Begin with the Cathedral: thence by 
the Jesuits’ Church (a gorgeous combi¬ 
nation of Gothic and Italian architec¬ 
ture) to St. Ursula (the curious in 
architecture should visit St. Cunibert’s); 
from St. Ursula to St. Gereon; passing 
the Roman (?) Tower to the Apostles’ 
Ch. (exterior) ; to St. Peter’s, St. Mary’s 
in the Capitol (inside), the Gii.rzeni.ch, 
the Rathhaus (outside), the Museum, 
and the Iron Bridge, which completes 
the circuit. 

N.B. The names of streets running 
to or from the Rhine (E. and W.) are 
written in red letters, at the comers; 
those running parallel to the Rhine 
(N. and S.) in black letters. 

Among the new buildings are a Pro¬ 
testant church in the Filzenstrasse, a 
Synagogue of Moorish architecture in 
the Glocken-gasse, and the Ch. of St. 
Mauritius , near the Neu Markt. 

The churches are commonly open 
from 7 to 10 a.m. 

The**Cathedral (Domkirche), though 
begun about 1270-75 (Archbp. Conrad 
of Hochsteden, merely repaired an 
older ch., 1248), has remained up to the 
present time unfinished, and had very 
nearly become a ruin. The choir was 
consecrated in 1322: but in 1509 a stop 
was put to its further progress, only 
the N. and S. aisles of the nave being 
then carried up as far as the capitals 
of the columns, and covered with a 
wooden roof. In this state it remained 
for more than 300 years. In 1830 the 
original plan was resumed. In 1842 
the good work commenced with the 
thorough repnir of the portion of the 


ch. then in existence. It is to be re¬ 
gretted that the name of the great arch¬ 
itect who designed so splendid a struc¬ 
ture—the St. Peter’s of Gothic archi¬ 
tecture—has been lost: one Master 
Gerhard, who was living 1252, is the 
builder earliest named, but nothing is 
known of him. The 2 principal towers, 
according to the original designs, were 
to have been raised to the height of 
500 ft. The crane employed to lift the 
stones to the top of the tower stood until 
1868, when the long-cherished notion 
of finishing the towers was on the eve 
of fulfilment, and is now replaced by 
the more efficacious steam-engine. It 
is hoped that the towers may be finished 
in 1877.* 

To King Frederick "William III. is 
due the merit of rescuing the Dom from 
the state of a ruined fragment. During 
his reign nearly 50,000/. were laid out 
upon it, chiefly in repairs; in that of 
his successor, Frederick William IV., 
225,000/., more than half of which was 
contributed by the King, the rest by 
public subscription. In 1842 he laid 
the foundation of the transept. The 
choir is now finished. 

An Association, called Dom-bau Verein, 
has been established, with branches in 
all parts of Europe, to collect subscrip¬ 
tions for completing the edifice ac¬ 
cording to the original design. In Sept. 
1848, the nave, aisles, and transepts 
were consecrated; the magnificent S. 
portal was finished 1859 at a cost of 
100 ,000/. ; the N. portal, more simple 
in detail, is also finished—both are from 
Zwirner’s designs. The iron central 
spire and iron roof of the nave were 
added 1860; the temporary roof re- 

* In order to see the Cathedral — Obs. The 
nave and painted glass are open to all, through 
the day; best hour from 8-9. The hours of 
service are 7-8, 9-10, and 3-34; on Sunday, 
10-11, 3-34, and 5-6. During these hours the 
church is open, but is not shown. The Swiss, 
or Red Bedel, who may be found in the tran¬ 
sept, is authorized to give out tickets (which 
cost 15 s. gr. for 5 persons) to see the choir, 
chapels, and the Dombild; another ticket (also 
15 s. gr. for 5 persons) admits to the inner 
and outer galleries round the choir, which are 
well worth visiting ; for opening the Magi’s 
Shrine and Dombild, 14 thaler. A single per¬ 
son may readily join a party, on paying his share 
of the ticket. Reject the offers of intrusive 
guides, who are uselecs. 




253 


Rhenish Prussia, route 36.— COLOGNE. CATHEDRAL. 


moved, and the whole interior thrown 
open 18*33. A handsome terrace has 
been raised round the church. All this 
has been done at a cost of not less than 
400,000/., raised between 1842 and 68. 

The restoration has been conducted 
in a masterly maimer, the faulty stone 
from the Drachenfels, on the exterior, 
replaced by another of a sounder texture 
brought from Andemach and Treves, of 
volcanic origin; and the workmanship 
in the new sculpture and masonry is 
at least equal to the old. 

The entire length of the body of 
the church is 511 ft., equal to the 
height of the Towers when finished; 
the breadth, 231 ft., corresponds with 
the height of the gable at the W. 
end. 

“ The Choir , now at length thrown 
open to the nave,’consists of 5 aisles, 
is 161 ft. high, and internally, from its 
size, height, and disposition of pillars, 
arches, chapels, and beautifully coloured 
windows, resembling a splendid vision. 
Externally, its double range of stupend¬ 
ous flying buttresses, and intervening 
piers, bristling with a forest of purfled 
pinnacles, strike the beholder with awe 
and astonishment. If completed, this 
would be at once the most regular and 
most stupendous Gothic monument 
existing.”— Hope. The choir walls are 
covered with modem paintings. The 
fine old stained windows of the choir 
(14th cent.) have been thoroughly 
cleaned and repaired: and some con¬ 
cealed frescoes brought to light on the 
walls have caused them to be decorated 
afresh by Steinle and artists of the 
Diisseldorf school. Round the choir, 
against the columns, stand 14 colossal 
statues of the 12 Apostles, the Virgin, 
and Saviour, coloured and gilt, sculp¬ 
tured in the beginning of the 14th cent. 
Of the same date are the finely carved 
stalls and seats of the choir. 

King Louis of Eavaria presented 5 
painted windows, which have been 
placed in the S. aisle of the nave. 
They are eclipsed by the 5 painted win¬ 
dows in the N. aisle, executed in 1508, 
of which the 4th from the W. entrance 
is the best. Obs. 2 fine modern glass 
windows at ends of transepts. The rere- 
dos of the altar of St. Agilolphus, an 


ancient and fine work of mixed wood 
carving and Flemish painting, brought 
from the Ch. of Sta. Maria ad Gradus. 

The apsidal E. end is surrounded by 
7 chapels. In the chapel immediately 
behind the high altar is the celebrated 
Shrine of the Three Kings of Cologne , or 
Magi, who came from the East with pre¬ 
sents for the infant Saviour. Their bones 
were carried off from S. Eustorgio at 
Milan by the Emp. Frederic Barbarossa, 
when he took that city by storm 
(1162), and were presented by him 
to Rainaldo Archbp. of Cologne, who 
had accompanied him on his warlike 
expedition. The case in which they 
are deposited is of plates of silver gilt, 
and curiously wrought, surrounded by 
small arcades, supported on pillars, 
enclosing figures of the Apostles and 
Prophets. The priceless treasures which 
once decorated it were much diminished 
at the time of the French revolution, 
when the shrine and its contents were 
transported for safety by the chapter to 
Arnsberg, in Westphalia. Many of the 
jewels were sold to maintain the persons 
who accompanied it, and have been re¬ 
placed by paste or glass imitations ; but 
the precious stones, the gems, cameos, 
and rich enamels which still remain, 
will give a fair notion of its riches and 
magnificence in its original state. The 
skulls of the three kings, inscribed with 
their names— Caspar , Melchior , aud 
Balthaze ?—written in rubies, are ex¬ 
hibited to view through an opening in 
the shrine, crowned with diadems (a 
ghastly contrast), which were of gold, 
and studded with real jewels, but are 
now only silver gilt. Among the an¬ 
tiques still remaining are 2, of Leda, 
and Cupid and Psyche, very beautiful. 
On the front of the shrine are these 2 
monkish leonine lines, asserting thn 
possession of the entire royal remains, 
against all rival proprietors of relics:—• 

Corpora sanctorum recubant hie terna Mago- 
rum, 

Ex his sublatum nihil est, alibive locatum. 

Those who show the tomb assert that 
its treasures are still worth 6 millions 
of francs — 240,000/.: this is an exag¬ 
geration, no doubt. 

This shrine is opened to the public 
gaze on Sundays and festivals; but 





2S4 


ROUTE 36. —COLOGNE. ST. URSULA. Sect. IV* 


those who desire to see it at other times, 
or to have a nearer and more minute view 
of it, must apply to the sacristan, and 
pay a fee of 1^ th., which admits a 
party to see it and the sacristy. 

Under a slab in the pavement, be¬ 
tween the high altar and the shrine of 
the three kings, the heart of Mary of 
Medicis is buried. In the adjoining 
side chapels around the choir are se¬ 
veral monuments of Archbishops of 
Cologne; the most remarkable are those 
of Conrad of Hochsteden (its founder), 
of bronze (1261), and that of Philip of 
Heinsberg (1191), surrounded by a 
mural parapet, to signify that he built 
the walls of Cologne. 

In the side chapel of St. Agnes, on 
the right of the Magi, is a veiy ancient 
painting , in distemper, called the Dom- 
bild (the Cathedral picture), bearing the 
date 1410, by one Stephan Lothener or 
Master Stephan. It represents the 
Patron Saints of the city of Cologne, 
viz.—in the centre, the Adoration of 
the Magi, or the Three Kings ; on the 
one side, St. Ursula and the 11,000 
Virgins ; on the other, St. Gereon with 
the Theban Legion. It is a masterly 
production for so early a period. 

In the Sacristy , or Schatzkammer, 
N. of the choir - , are many relics of 
Saints, including a bone of St. Mat¬ 
thew; St. Engelbert’s shrine of silver, 
ornamented with reliefs of good work¬ 
manship, date 1635; some church plate, 
and the like curiosities—among them the 
Sword of Justice, with a finely chased 
scabbard, borne by the Electors of Co¬ 
logne at the coronation of the Emperor; 
10 elaborate carvings in ivory; the 
State Cross of the Archbishop, 7 ft. 
high, ornamented with enamel; and a 
Pax of solid gold, 5 in. by 4. 

It* is well worth while to climb up 
to the triforium gallery to appreciate 
the grandeur of the edifice, and to 
examine the painted glass ; or even to 
mount to the roof for the sake of the 
view of the town, and of the exterior 
of the edifice. 

Opposite the S. door of the cathe¬ 
dral (or Domhof) is the Archbishop’s 
Museum , devoted to mediseval art and 
ecclesiastical antiquities, church plate, 
missals, tapestries, metal-work, &c. It 


occupies the old chapel of the former 
Archiepiscopal Palace. 

St. Andrew’s, W. of the Dom, is 
remarkable for its Pomanesque W. end 
and vestibule of 5 compartments domed, 
resting on cuspcd arches. Choir, late 
Gothic, contains the relics of Albertus 
Magnus. 

St. Cunibert , finished in 1248, the 
year the Dom was begun, but in a 
style totally different from it, is a re¬ 
markable instance of the adherence to 
the older style after the pointed style 
had become prevalent and perfect. The 
W. tower fell down in 1830, and is re¬ 
placed by a very inferior one. The 
interior is quite simple. It contains 
the oldest painted glass in the country, 
of most glowing hues, and has an 
elegant portal. 

The Ch. of St. "Ursula , and of the 
11,000 Virgins (of which the W. end 
only is Romanesque 12th centy., the 
choir poor Gothic, of 14th and 15th 
cent.), is too singular a sight not to be 
visited. Tarif: 1 to 3 persons, 15 s. gr.; 
above that number, 5 s. gr. each. It 
is situated just within the walls, and 
is not remarkable in its architec¬ 
ture, but is filled with the bones of St. 
Ursula’s companions. That saintly lady 
(according to the legend, a princess of 
Britain) set sail with her virgin train 
as the destined brides of an army which 
had migrated under Maximus, to con¬ 
quer part of Gaul (Armorica) from the 
Emp. Gratian. The ladies mistook 
their way, however, and landed at 
Cologne, where the whole party was 
slaughtered by the barbarian Huns, 
because they refused to break their 
vows of chastity. On entering the 
ch. the hideous relics meet the eye, 
beneath, above, around : they are built 
into the walls, bulled rmder the pave¬ 
ment, and displayed in gaunt array in 
glass cases about the choir. Among them 
Professor Owen, at a glance, detected 
numerous remains of lower animals. The 
Saint herself reposes in a coffin behind 
the altar, while the skulls of a select few 
of her associates are admitted to the 
Golden Chamber , encased in silver, along 
with a number of other relics, such as 
one of the stone vessels which held the 
water that was tinned into wine at the 




Rhenish Prussia, rte. 36. —cologne, st. gereon*s. apostles 1 . 255 


Marriage in Cana, &c. A bad picture 
in the church represents the landing of 
this female army of Saints at Cologne. 
Some, who have been staggered at the 
number of Ursula’s maiden train, have 
supposed that the legend arose from 
confounding the name of one of her 
attendants, Undecimilla, with the num¬ 
ber undecim millia (11,000). The ch. 
contains a series of old German pic¬ 
tures of the Apostles painted on slate, 
1224. 

The Church of the Jesuits (Maria 
Himmelfahrt) dates from 1636, and, like 
others erected by the order, is over¬ 
loaded with gorgeous decorations of 
marble, sculpture, &c. It contains the 
crozier of St. Francis Xavier, and the 
rosary of St. Ignatius Loyola. Its 
bells were cast out of the camion taken 
at Magdeburg by Tilly, and presented 
by him to this church. 

Travellers interested in architecture 
will find in Cologne many excellent 
examples of the Romanesque style, with 
some specimens of the transition style 
from the round to the pointed. “ The 
east ends of these [Romanesque] 
churches look like those of the Greeks, 
or the mosques of Constantinople.”— 
Hope . The architects who designed 
these earliest churches at Cologne, and 
many similar along the Rhine, had evi¬ 
dently studied the Lombard churches of 
Pavia, which became familiar to the 
inhabitants of the banks of the Rhine 
by the residence of the Carlovingian 
Emperors in that capital of their 
Italian dominions. The architectural 
traveller will visit Sta. Maria in Ca- 
pitolio, the Ch. of the Apostles, St. 
Gereon, St. Martin, St. Cunibert, and 
St. Pantaloon.* 

*St. Gereon’s Kirche, another ossuary, 
since it is lined with the bones of the 
Theban Legion of 6000 martyrs, slain, 
according to the legend told here, 
either on this spot or at Xanten, 
during the persecution by Diocletian, is 
one of the finest and most ancient 
churches in Cologne. The decagonal 
nave dates from 1212; the rest of the 
church, including the choir and the 
crypt, was built 1066-69. The earlier 
building is in the round style, except 


where some repairs were executed, a3 
is thought, after a storm in 1434 ; the 
latter shows a preponderating mixture 
of the pointed. “ By a singular and 
theatrical arrangement, arising .out of 
these various increments, its body pre¬ 
sents a vast decagonal shell and cupola, 
the pillars of whose internal angles are 
prolonged in ribs, which, centering in 
a summit, meet in one point, and lead 
by a high and wide flight of steps, ris¬ 
ing opposite the entrance, to an altar 
and oblong choir behind it; whence 
other steps again ascend to the area 
between the 2 high square towers, and 
to the £ circular east end, belted, as well 
as the cupola, by galleries with small 
arches and pillars, on a panelled balus¬ 
trade, in the style of the Ch. of the 
Apostles. The entrance-door, with 
square lintel, low pediment, and pointed 
arch, is elegant; and the crypts (well 
worth visiting) show some remains of 
handsome mosaics.”— Hope. The bap¬ 
tistery is a very elegant building, in the 
transition style of the decagonal church. 
It contains a font of porphyry, said to 
be a gift of Charlemagne. The sacristy, 
in the pointed style, is apparently of 
the 14th cent. It contains some painted 
glass. 

Near St. Gereon’s, in front of the 
Archbp.’s palace, rises a monument to 
the Virgin (Marien Saule), erected to 
commemorate the reception of the dog¬ 
ma of the Immaculate Conception, 1858. 

Between St. Gcreon’s and the Apostles’ 
Church you pass 

The Roman Tower , circular, distin¬ 
guished by coloured masonry, arranged 
like a mosaic, of Roman origin, and 
perhaps part of the oldest fortification. 
The outer coating is mediaeval. 

The * Apostles’ Church , in the Neu- 
markt, was begun in 1020, and finished 
in 1035. It suffered from fire in 1098 
and 1199, and was partly rebuilt in 
the beginning of the 13th cent. It has 
a double transept. To the earlier build¬ 
ing belong the choir, the eastern tran¬ 
sept and octagonal cupola, the 2 small 
towers, the lower part of the nave, 
and the great tower. The western 
transept and upper part of the nave are 
the parts rebuilt in the 13th cent. The 





256 ROUTE 36. —COLOGNE, ST. PETER, STA. MARIA, Sect. IV. 


vaulting of the nave, which had be¬ 
come ruinous, has been restored in 
wood, after the old pattern. This 
church has “ 3 absides, or \ circular 
cupola, with slim octagonal steeples 
between them, rising undiminished to 
the top, from the transepts and the 
choir. Their common centre is crowned 
by an octagonal cupola, which, as well 
as the 3 absides, is belted, imme¬ 
diately under the cornice, by galleries 
of small arches, on small columns, 
coupled in the depth of the arch, rest¬ 
ing on a panelled balustrade, such as is 
displayed by all the other churches here 
and on the Rhine of the same period, 
and covered with a low ribbed roof of 
lead, so as to present a striking resem¬ 
blance to some of the oldest Greek 
churches in some of the remotest parts 
of Asia Minor; and at the same time in 
its proportions as airy and elegant, and 
calculated to magnify its apparent size, 
as the heavy, clumsy, English-Norman 
roof often does the contrary.”— Hope. 

The Church of St. Peter contains the 
famous altarpiece of the Crucifixion of 
that Saint, with his head downwards, 
by Rubens, who was baptized in this 
church. The picture usually exposed to 
view is a copy made when the original 
was carried to Paris; but for a fee of 
15 S. gr. (for a party) the sacristan will 
turn the picture round, and display the 
original at the back of the copy. On 
Sundays and festivals the original is 
turned outwards. “ It was painted a 
little time before Rubens’s death. The 
body and head of the Saint are the only 
good parts in this picture, which is 
finely coloured (broad light and shade), 
and well drawn ; but the figure bends 
too suddenly from the thighs, which 
are ill drawn, or rather in a bad taste 
of drawing; as is likewise his arm, 
which has a short interrupted outline. 
The action of the malefactors (execu¬ 
tioners) has not that energy which he 
usually gave to his figures. Rubens, 
in his letters to Gildorp, expresses his 
own approbation of this picture, which 
he says was the best he ever painted: 
he likewise expresses his content and 
happiness in the subject, as being pic¬ 
turesque ; this is likewise natural to 
such a mind as that of Rubens, who 


was, perhaps, too much looking about 
lim for the picturesque or something 
uncommon. A man with his head 
downwards is certainly a more extra¬ 
ordinary object than in its natural 
place. Many parts of this picture are 
so feebly drawn, and with so tame a 
pencil, that I cannot help suspecting 
that Rubens died before he had com¬ 
pleted it, and that it was finished by 
some of his scholars .”—Sir J. Reynolds. 
“ The composition is the best part of 
this picture : the bringing of the figures 
together is most original and skilful, 
and presents the difficulty of a bad sub¬ 
ject overcome. Still the painting, ex¬ 
cept in the left shoulder and breast of 
the Saint, is below the usual run of 
this great master ; though done indeed 
with great power, yet in the drawing 
of the figures the indication of anatomy 
is far from good.”— Wilkie. The 3 
painted E. windows are fine, repre¬ 
senting—1. Christ bearing his Cross ; 
2 . Crucifixion; 3. Descent from the 
Cross. They were executed 1528-1530. 

The brazen font in which Rubens 
was baptized still exists in this church. 

Maria de’ Medici died, 1642, in the 
house, No. 10, Stemengasse ; her re¬ 
mains, except the heart, were carried 
to France. Rubens lived in this house 
until he was 10 years old. He was 
born 1577, at Siegen (Rte. 47). 

Santa Maria in Capitolio, so called 
from its occupying the site of the capitol 
of the Roman city, stands on a height 
surmounted by flights of steps. The 
Frankish kings had a palace here, to 
which, in 696, Plectrudis, the wife of 
Pepin of Heristal, retired, having sepa¬ 
rated from her husband on account of 
his attachment to Alpais, the mother of 
Charles Martel. She, in 700, removed 
the capitol, and built a church and a 
nunnery on its site. It has been con¬ 
tended that the existing church is nearly 
entirely of that period. It is more pro¬ 
bable that the greater part at least was 
built about 1000. The 2 transepts, as 
well as the choir, terminate in apses. 
An outer aisle surrounds them and 
the nave. Inside the choir, the coupled 
columns, with their rich arabesque 
capitals, are in the style of the 11th 
l or 12th cent.; outside, the wall is 



Rhenish Prussia, route 36. —cologne, town-hall, museum. 257 


crowned by a row of arches on small 
pillars. The lower windows of the choir 
have been filled with traceiy of the 
latest period of the pointed style. The 
pointed vaulting of the nave is appa¬ 
rently a restoration of the latter part of 
the 14th cent. “ Externally, in the 
same style with the Ch. of the Apostles; 
internally resembling a Greek church 
still more, and, in fact, a counterpart 
of one existing among the ruins of 
Seleucia, since round its semicircular 
absides and east end run internally 
semicircular rows of columns support¬ 
ing round arches.”— Hope. The effigy 
of Plcctrudis, a very early work (10th 
cent.), is let into the wall outside of the 
choir. The doorways of the N. transept, 
carved with scriptural subjects in relief, 
executed at the end of the 12th cent, at 
the latest, are very curious (compare 
the doors at Hildesheim). The walls 
of the Hardenrath chapel are covered 
with paintings by an old German master 
(1466); and the windows have some 
good stained glass. That of the Schwarz 
family, with groined vaulting, contains 
the brass Font (1594), surmounted by 
a figure of St. Martin on horseback. 
The walls of the crypt, once a salt 
depot, are covered with ancient paint¬ 
ings nearly effaced. The tower was 
built after 1637, when the old one fell. 
The convent has disappeared. The 
cloister of the 10th cent, has been 
restored : great part is modern. 

The House of the Templars , in the 
Rheingasse, No. 8, supposed to be of 
the 12th or 13th cent., was repaired, 
1840, and now serves as the Exchange 
and Chamber of Commerce. 

The Casino is a handsome building, 
near the theatre, provided with ball 
and reading-rooms, where newspapers 
are taken in. The Regierungs Gebaude 
is also a handsome edifice. 

In the ancient Kaufhaus or Giirze- 
nich (so called from the person who 
gave the ground on which it stands), 
finished in 1474, restored 1857-59, 
several Diets of the Empire were held, 
and many German Emperors enter¬ 
tained at the hospitable board of the 
patrician magistrates, in the huge hall 
which occupies the 1st floor: hero the 
carnival balls, concerts, and orchestral 


entertainments are given. It has two 
remarkably fine Gothic fireplaces. 

The Philharmonic Concerts on Sat. 
evenings are accessible to strangers 
introduced by a member. 

The Rathhaus (Town-hall), fronting 
the Alten Markt and Stadthaus-platz, 
was erected at different periods; the 
ground-floor dates from the 13th cent.; 
the Gothic tower, containing the Ar¬ 
chives, in 1414; the very pleasing 
marble porch of 2 stories, in style of the 
Renaissance, in 1571. In the Gothic 
Hansa Saal were held the meetings of 
that mercantile confederation which at 
one time carried on the commerce of 
the world. 

Gross St. Martin's Ch ., on the Rhine, was 
dedicated 1172, but its lofty tower, rest¬ 
ing on arches nearly 100 feet high, was 
not added until the beginning of the 
16th cent. Its site, originally an island 
in the Rhine, was occupied by an earlier 
church, which, in 980, Bishop Warm 
gave to the Scotch Benedictines. The 
interior was modernised in 1790. In 
the church is an octagonal font of white 
marble, a Roman work of 13th centy., 
gift of Pope Leo III., and having ap¬ 
parently been a labrum of a bath. 

St. Mauritius is a good modem 
Gothic ch. (Yon Stadtz, arch.), one of 
the best in Germany. 

In the Church of the Minorites , whose 
pointed Gothic choir, 13th centy., nearly 
cotemporary with that of the Dom, has 
been restored along with the W. front, 
is the tomb of John Duns Scot us, philo¬ 
sopher and divine (died 1309). The 
late Pointed cloister is included in the 
adjoining Museum. 

The YYallraff-Richartz Museum is a 
Gothic edifice near the Ch. of the Mi¬ 
norites, which owes its existence to 
the munificence of 2 private citizens, 
Herr Wallraff who bequeathed his 
pictures to his native city, and Herr 
Richartz who built the edifice to hold 
them, 1855-61 (admittance fee 7^ S. 
gr. each person; daily from 9 to 6 (in 
winter to 4); on Sundays and holi¬ 
days it is open free from 10 to 
12 ^). The staircase is painted by 
Steinle. It is chiefly occupied with 
works of art bequeathed by Prof. 



258 


ROUTE 36. —COLOGNE. 

"Wallraffto his native city. The whole 
collection amounts to near 1000 ; the 
greater part works of Gothic art, and 
unknown masters, without names; 8 
paintings of the Sufferings of Christ are 
attributed to the master of the Lyvers- 
berg Passion; 100 or more are early 
specimens of the School of Cologne,* 
1250-1350, and of its later productions, 
when influenced by Yan Eyck, 1450- 
1550. Among the more remarkable are 
—the Last Judgment, by Master Stephan 
Lothenar, painter of the Dombild (1410), 
(the angels are painted of the brightest 
ultra-marine); the Death of the Vir¬ 
gin, by Schoreel; and a Descent from 
the Cross, by Israel von Mechenen 
(1488); also a Virgin and Child, and 
several others, by Master William of 
Cologne (1380); — by Alb. Purer, a 
Drummer and Piper; an altarpiece 
with wings, by an unknown German 
painter ; a Holy Family with St. Anne, 
the infant Saviour has a fig in his 
hand; by Rubens , St. Francis receiv¬ 
ing the Stigmata, a carefully-painted 
work; a Iloly Family; by Vandyk, 
Portrait of Jabach, a citizen of Cologne, 
fine; a Madonna and Child, by Titian , is 
almost the only good Italian painting. 

One wing is devoted to pictures by 
modern artists. Observe the Captive 
Jews at Babylon, by Bendemann, “no 
less remarkable for the simple beauty 
of the composition, than for the depth 
and earnestness of feeling it expresses ;” 
the Convent Court, in a snow-storm, 
by Lessing , also good. Galileo in 
prison, by Karl Piloty: Archangel 
Michael protecting the body of Moses 
against Satan, by Plochhorst: 25 views 
of the Bhine, by Caspar Scheuren. 

In the lower story are rooms con¬ 
taining old armour, furniture, painted 
glass, pottery, &c.; in the lower 
cloisters many Roman antiquities, some 
of which were found in or near Cologne, 
such as mosaic pavement with figures 
of Plato, Aristotle, Socrates, &c.; be¬ 
sides these are busts and statues, and one 
specimen of sculpture, distinguished as 
a work of Grecian art, of great beauty 
and value—it is the Head of Medusa , 
resembling the famous “Medusa Bon- 

* See Kugler’s Handbook of Tainting, $ xi. 


EAU DE COLOGNE. Sect. IV. 

dinini,” in the Glyptothek at Munich, 
found at Pome. 

St. Pantaleon , S. side of the city, 
was the oldest Christian structure 
in Cologne, and the lower part of the 
great tower, and the walls connected 
with it, are probably not later than 
980. It was built by Archbishop 
Bruno, with the materials of the Poman 
bridge and Castle of Deutz. The greater 
part of the present ch. is of the year 1622. 
It is used as the garrison ch. Against 
the piers hang lists of soldiers who fell 
in the war of 1813-15. 

The Winter Concerts , given by the 
Directors of the Conservatory of Music, 
will be fidly appreciated by musicians. 

Eau de Cologne , so renowned all over 
the world, is an article of considerable 
commerce for the city. There are 24 
manufacturers, and several who bear 
the same name ; but the original Jean 
Marie Farina, the rightful heir of the 
inventor (1670-1680), the best fabri¬ 
cator of Eau de Cologne, is to be 
found opposite the Julichs Platz. 
Another kind, Eau des Varmes , in¬ 
vented by the nun Mary Clementina 
Martin, gained a prize in the Great 
Exhibition, and may be had opposite 
the Dom. A box (6 bottles) costs 2 th. 
10 S. gr. Beware of spurious Eau de 
Cologne, forced upon the stranger at 
every step, by touters, waiters, and 
even cabmen. It is a perfect nui¬ 
sance. The value of this manufac¬ 
ture cannot fail to be appreciated on the 
spot. One of the peculiarities of Co¬ 
logne, its filthiness, will not long escape 
the attention, or the nose, of the 
stranger; though not to so great an 
extent as formerly, when it provoked 
the following verses of Coleridge :— 

Ye nymphs, who reign o’er sewers and sinks, 
The river Rhine, it is well known, 

Doth wash your city of Cologne:— 

But tell me, nymphs, what power divine 
Shall henceforth wash the river Rhine ? 

Physicians. Dr. Sticker and Dr. Eu- 
lenberg: both speak English. 

English Church Service , Sundays, 8 , 
Rheingasse. 

A little way down the river, on the 
1. hank, are a Zoological and a Botanical 
Garden, much resorted to on Sunday 
afternoons. Small steamers will take 



259 


—ABBEY OE ALTENBERG. 


Rhenish Prussia, route 36. 

you thither from the Boat Bridge. 
Admission to each, 10 S. gr. 

On the rt. hank of the .Rhine, oppo¬ 
site Cologne, stands 

Deutz (Inn: Hotel Bellevue, excel¬ 
lent), which is connected by the iron 
bridge and bridge of boats with Co¬ 
logne, and strongly fortified as a tetc 
de pont: it is a favourite place of resort 
in summer evenings. The gardens at 
the river side afford the amusements of 
music, dancing, and beer-drinking to 
the citizens. 

An old Benedictine abbey has been 
converted into an artillery depot, and 
there is also a great cavalry barrack. 
I)eutz is said to owe its rise to a castle 
built here by Constantine the Great. 

From the extremity of the Bridges , 
the finest view of Cologne and its ranges 
of buildings, extending for 3 m. along 
the opposite hank, is obtained. The 
tubular Suspension Bridge (see above) 
rests on piers sunk in the bed of the 
river, so strong as to resist the floods 
and ice of winter. The boat-bridge 
requires to be opened to let vessels pass, 
by which passengers and carriages are 
often delayed 15 or 20 minutes: it is 
removed in winter. The Minden and 
Berlin Rig. Terminus is in Deutz, but 
express trains start from the Central 
Stat. at Cologne. 

[An exceedingly interesting excursion 
may be made from Cologne to the Cis¬ 
tercian Abbey of *Altenberg , 14 m. dis¬ 
tant, 2^ hours’ drive, from Deutz. The 
rly. from Miihleim to Gladbach passes 
within 6 m. of it. The Abbey lies about 
1 m. from the post-house at Strasserhof, 
to the S. of the road, in the midst of 
beech forests, buried in the pretty retired 
valley of the Dhiin, and close to the 
rushing stream. The distance is a very 
long mile. The ch. is a beautiful specimen 
of Gothic, the choir finished in 1265, 
the rest in 1379; it is 84 ft. high, and 
of graceful proportions. The windows 
contain some beautiful painted glass; 
and remains of frescoes may he traced 
on its walls. The high altar, richly 
ornamented with carvings, the pulpit, 
and numerous monuments of abbots 
and monks, knights and noble ladies, 
are tolerably perfect. Among them are 
several of the Counts of Altena, and the 


Counts and Dukes of Berg, allied to the 
reigning house of Brandenburg. It 
has been supposed that this church was 
designed by the architect of Cologne 
cathedral; but the simplicity and so¬ 
lidity of the columns seem to indicate 
an artist of an earlier style. Observe 
the free and natural foliage of the capi¬ 
tals ; it is well executed, and with great 
taste. The choir windows are narrow, 
and tall out of all proportion; hidden 
on the outside by the projecting but¬ 
tresses, and rather poor when seen 
within. The conventual buildings, from 
which #he monies were turned out only 
about 1799, were built about 1214: 
they were converted into a manu¬ 
factory of Prussian blue, and were 
destroyed in 1815 by a fire which be¬ 
gan in them, and reduced part of the 
church to a state of impending ruin. 
In 1836 the Crown Prince of Prussia 
undertook its restoration. This ex¬ 
quisite relic of Gothic architecture 
has thus been saved,though at a great 
cost, from the destruction which was 
imminent. A dinner, with trout from 
the Dhiin, may be had at Schmitz’s 
Inn at Engelrath near Strasserhof.] 

Railroads —to Aix-la-Chapelld (Rte. 
36) (express train to Paris by Charle¬ 
roi and St. Quentin inllhrs.);—toMay- 
ence, by Bonn, Coblenz, and Bingen, in 
4£ to 5f hrs. (Rte. 37);—to Crefeld and 
Cleves (Rte. 35); — and the express 
trains to Minden and Berlin,—all start 
from the Central Bahnhof, near the Ca¬ 
thedral. Ordinary trains to Minden and 
Berlin;—to Diisseldorf and Arnhem; 
—to Siegburg and Giessen (Rte. 47); 
from the Terminus in Deutz. 

Steamers several times a-day, up the 
Rhine to Coblenz (Rte. 37), and down 
to Nijmegen and Arnhem (Rte. 35), 
and thence to Rotterdam (Rte. 12) ; to 
Miilheim, on the rt. bank, below Co¬ 
logne ; and to the Zoological Gardens , 
starting from the Quai below the bridge, 
near St. Cunibert’s many times a day. 

Sclmellposts (§ 49); to Priim and 
Treves. 







260 


ROUTE 36 a.—AIX-LA-CHAPELLE TO DUSSELDORF. Sect. IV. 


ROUTE 36 a. 

AIX-LA-CHAPELLE TO MINDEN, HAN¬ 
OVER, AND BERLIN, BY RUHRORT OR 

DUSSELDORF. 

Aix-la-Chapclle to Diisseldorf, by 
Gladbach andNeuss. Rail. 11^ Germ, 
m. 4 trains daily, in 2 £ to 3 hrs. 

Travellers bound to Hanover, Berlin, 
or N. Germany, from England^or Bel¬ 
gium, should proceed direct from Aix to 
Ruhrort by this railway. They will save 
time and expense by taking places from 
Ostend only to Aix-la-Chapelle, instead 
of goingroundby Cologne. They should 
take care, on arriving at Calais or 
Ostend, to have their luggage booked 
for Aix, and not for Cologne. 

This rly. has 2 Stats., one near the 
Marschier-Thor (near the Rhenish 
Rly.); the other near the Pont-Thor. 
It breaks through the old walls of Aix, 
near a lofty watch-tower, and skirts the 
Lousberg, and soon leaves (on 1.) the line 
to Maestricht (Rte. 27), through a rich 
coal-field. 

1-1 Kohlscheid Stat. 

1*8 Herzogenrath Stat. (French Rol- 
duc), a small town, with an old Castle. 
See 1. former Abbey Klosterrath, now 
a boys’ school. 

3‘3 Geilenkirchen Stat. 

4‘ 2 Lindern Stat. The rly. crosses 
the river Roer. 

5*2 Baal Stat. 

5’9 Erkelenz Stat. has a picturesque 
Castle in ruins, and a fine ch., 14th cent. 
[About 8 m. up the valley rt. lies Juliers 
(Germ. Jiilich). Inn: DreiKonigen— 
civil people, and clean beds. A melan¬ 
choly-looking fortress, with 3000 Inhab., 
in the midst of a plain, surrounded by 
marshes and stagnant ditches, which 
render it very unhealthy. The sur¬ 
rounding district, however, is so fertile 
that it has received the name of the 
Granary (Komkammer) of the Rhine¬ 
land] . 

7 - l "Wickrath Stat. 

7-6 RhcydtStat. (Kriiseman’s Inn). 

[6 m. E. is Schloss Dyk , seat of 
Prince Salm-Rciffcrscheid Dyck, with 


beautiful grounds, and one of the largest 
collections of Cacti in Europe.] 

8’1 Gladbach Junction Stat., close to 
a gigantic Gothic cotton-mill (Herf s 
Inn). The Minster dates from the 12th 
cent., except the crypt of the 10th, and 
the choir,pure Gothic, of 1275. Cotton¬ 
spinning was established here 1807, 
while England was shut out from 
the Continent, and flourishes greatly. 
[1. A branch railway diverges to Cre- 
feld , and to the Rhine by Uerdingen and 
Homberg, opposite Ruhrort, whither 
a steamer plies across the river (Rte. 
34). From Ruhrort runs a short branch 
railway to Oberhausen June. Stat., on 
the Cologne, Hanover, and Berlin Rly. 
(Rte. 65).] 

9 - l Kleinenbroich Stat. 6 m. E. of 
Rheydt, rt., stands the Schloss Dyck, 
residence of the family of Salm-Dyck, 
which once bore the title Altgraf; the 
principality was mediatised 1812. The 
Castle is modernised, and offers little 
for observation, but the gardens are 
famous for a curious and rare collection 
of cactuses. 

10'4 Neuss June. Stat. (Rte. 35). 
The Rhine is crossed by a flying 
bridge. 

11-3 Diisseldorf Stat. (Rte. 34.) 


ROUTE 37. 

THE RHINE (c). 

FROM COLOGNE TO COBLENZ. 

rt. denotes the right, 1. the left bank 
of the Rhine, according as they would 
lie on the right or left of a person 
looking down the stream. 

The Rhine. 

“ On the banks of the majestic Rhine, 

There Harold "axes on a work, divine, 

A blending of all beauties; streams and 
dells, 

Fruit, foliage, crag, wood, cornfield, moun¬ 
tain, vine, 

And chieiless castles breathing stern fare¬ 
wells 

From grey but leafy walls, where Ruin greenly 
dwells. 




liken. Prussia. 

“ And there they stand, as stands a lofty mind, 
Worn, but unstooping to the baser crowd, 
All tenantless, save to the crannying wind, 
Or holding dark communion with the cloud. 
There was a day when they were young and 
proud, 

Banners on high, and battles pass'd below; 
But they who fought are in a bloody shroud, 
And those which wav’d are shredless dust 
ere now. 

And the bleak battlements shall bear no fu¬ 
ture blow. 

“ Beneath these battlements, within those 
walls, 

Power dwelt amidst her passions ; in proud 
state 

Each robber chief upheld his armed halls, 
Doing his evil will, nor less elate 
Than mightier heroes of a longer date. 

What want these outlaws conquerors should 
have 

But History’s purchas’d page to call them 
great, 

A wider space and ornamented grave ? 

Their hopes were not less warm, their souls 
were full as brave. 

“ In their baronial feuds and single fields, 
What deeds of prowess unrecorded died ! 
And Love, which lent a blazon to their 
shields. 

With emblems well devis'd by amorous 
pride, 

Through all the mail of iron hearts would 
glide ; 

But still their flame was fierceness, and drew 
on 

Keen contest and destruction near allied, 
And many a tower for some fair mischief 
won 

Saw the discolour’d Rhine beneath its ruin 
run. 

“ But Thou, exulting and abounding river! 
Making thy waves a blessing as they flow 
Through banks whose beauty would endure 
for ever, 

Could man but leave thy bright creation so, 
Nor its fair promise from the surface mow 
With the sharp scythe of conflict,—then to 
see 

Thy valley of sweet waters, were to know 
Earth pav’d like Heaven; and to seem such 
to me, 

Even [now what wants thy stream ?—that it 
should Lethe be. 

“ A thousand battles have assail’d thy banks, 
But these and half their fame have pass’d 
away, 

And Slaughter heap’d on high his weltering 
ranks; 

Their very graves are gone, and what are 
they ? 

Thy tide wash’d down the blood of yester¬ 
day, 

And all was stainless, and’on thy clear stream 
Glanc’d with its dancing light the sunny ray ; 
But o’er the blacken’d memory’s blighting 
dream 

Thy waves would vainly roll, all sweeping as 
they seem. 


261 

“ Adieu to thee, fair Rhine ! Ilow long de¬ 
lighted 

The stranger fain would linger on his way ! 
r l bine is a scene alike where souls united 
Or lonely contemplation thus might stray ; 
And could the ceaseless vultures cease to 
prey 

On self-condemning bosoms, it were here, 

W here Nature, nor too sombre nor too gay. 
Wild but not rude, awful yet not austere, 

Is to the mellow earth as Autumn to the year. 

“ Adieu to thee again! a vain adieu ! 

There can be no farewell to scene like thine: 
The mind is colour’d by thy every hue ; 

And if reluctantly the eyes resign 
Their cherish’d gaze upon thee, lovely 
Rhine! 

’Tis with the thankful glance of parting 
praise: 

More mighty spots may rise—more glaring 
shine, 

But none unite in one attaching maze 
The brilliant, fair, and soft,—the glories of old 
days. 

“ The negligently grand, the fruitful bloom 
Of coming ripeness, the white city’s sheen, 
The rolling stream, the precipice’s gloom, 
The forest’s growth, and Gothic walls be¬ 
tween 

The wild rocks shap’d as they had turrets 
been 

In mockery of man’s art; and these withal 
A race of faces happy as the scene, 

Whose fertile bounties here extend to all, 
Still springing o’er thy banks, though Empires 
near them fall.” Byron. 

To the above accurate description 
of the poet is added another in prose, 
from the pen of a German, because it 
serves to illustrate the feelings of pride 
and almost veneration with which the 
Rhine is regarded in Germany; it is 
indeed looked upon as the national 
river. 

“ There are rivers whose course is 
longer, and whose volume of water is 
greater, hut none which unites almost 
everything that can render an earthly 
object magnificent and charming in the 
same degree as the Rhine. As it flows 
down from the distant ridges of the 
Alps, through fertile regions, into the 
open sea, so it comes down from remote 
antiquity, associated in every age with 
momentous events in the history of the 
neighbouring nations. A river which 
presents so many historical recollections 
of Roman conquests and defeats, of the 
chivalric exploits in the feudal periods, 
of the wars and negotiations of modern 
times, of the coronations of emperors, 
whose hones repose by its side; on 


ROUTE 37.—THE RHINE (c). 







262 


Sect. IV. 


ROUTE 37.—THE RHINE (c). RAFTS. 


whose borders stand the two grandest 
monuments of the noble architecture of 
the middle ages ; whose banks present 
every variety of wild and picturesque 
rocks, thick forests, fertile plains; vine¬ 
yards, sometimes gently sloping, some¬ 
times perched among lofty crags, where 
industry has won a domain among the 
fortresses of nature; whose banks are 
ornamented with populous cities, 
flourishing towns and villages, castles 
and ruins, with which a thousand 
legends are connected, with beautiful 
and romantic roads, and salutary 
mineral springs ; a river whose waters 
offer choice fish, as its banks offer the 
choicest wines ; which, in its course of 
900 miles, affords 630 miles of uninter¬ 
rupted navigation, from Basle to the 
sea, and enables the inhabitants of its 
banks to exchange the rich and various 
products of its shores; whose cities, 
famous for commerce, science, and 
works of strength, which furnish pro¬ 
tection to Germany, are also famous as 
the seats of Homan colonies and of 
ecclesiastical councils, and are associ¬ 
ated with many of the most important 
events recorded in the history of man¬ 
kind ;—such a river it is not surprising 
that the Germans regard with a kind 
of reverence, and frequently call in 
poetry Father or King Rhine.” — Dr. 
Lieber. 

Bafts on the Ehine.— Every tra¬ 
veller on the Bhine should have his 
attention called to the vast floating 
islands of timber which he will con¬ 
stantly meet with on that river. They 
are the produce of the forests which 
cover the remote hills and mountains 
traversed by the Bhine and its tribu¬ 
taries,—the Neckar, the Murg, the 
Main, the Moselle, &c. &c. They are 
first hurled down, in single logs, from 
the almost inaccessible heights where 
they have grown, and, having been 
felled, are committed to some rushing 
mountain rivulet, whenever its waters, 
swelled by rain or melting snow, suffice 
to float them. If the tree escape un¬ 
shattered from the rocks against which 
it is dashed by the stream, it is caught, 
bound together with other logs, and 
again set afloat till it is conveyed by 


the tributaiy rivulet into the recipient 
river, and reaches other stations on its 
banks, where it is again enlarged, and 
intrusted to the care of boatmen to 
navigate. It may thus bear the same 
motto as the snowball, vires acquirit 
eundo , until, on reaching the lower part 
of the Bhine, it is carefully built into 
one prodigious fabric, which is then 
navigated to Dortrecht, and sold. These 
constructions have the appearance of a 
floating village, composed of 8 or 10 
little wooden huts, on a largo platform 
of oak and deal timber. The rowers 
and workmen sometimes amount to 
400 or 500, superintended by pilots, 
and a proprietor, whose habitation is 
superior in size and elegance to the 
rest. The captain places himself upon 
a raised platform or stage, from which 
he can survey the float from end to end, 
and direct, by words and signs, its 
movements. It is steered by means of 
anchors and the immense oars or sweeps 
of a quadruple row of rowers, placed 
fore and aft. The vast fabric bends 
and twists like a snake, when passing 
near dangerous eddies and narrow 
straits, such as are met with in the 
Bhine under the Lurlei and the 
Bingen Loch. The raft is composed 
of several layers of trees, placed one on 
the other, and strongly fastened to¬ 
gether by chains and rivets, planked 
over with rough deals so as to form a 
deck, which is sunk nearly to the level 
of the water. Several smaller rafts arc 
attached to it by way of protection, 
besides a string of boats loaded with 
anchors and cables, and used for the 
purpose of sounding the river and going 
on shore. The domestic economy of 
an East-Indiaman, or an English man- 
of-war, is hardly more complete. The 
boatmen are often accompanied by 
their wives and families, and spinning, 
knitting, tailoring, dressmaking, are 
carried on; poultry, pigs, and other 
animals are to be found on board— 
and several butchers are attached to the 
suite. A well-supplied boiler is at 
work night and day in the kitchen; 
the dinner-hour is announced by a 
basket stuck on a pole, at which signal 
the pilot gives the word of command, 
and the workmen run from all quarters 





STEAMERS. 


263 


Bhen. Prussia, route 37. —the rhine (c). 


to receive their messes. The con¬ 
sumption of provisions in the voyage is 
almost incredible. It has been stated 
to be, from the time the construction of 
the raft commences until it is sold at 
Dort, 45,000 lbs. of bread, 30,000 lbs. 
of fresh and dried meat, 15,000 lbs. of 
butter, 10,000 lbs. of cheese, 50 sacks 
of dried vegetables, 500 tuns of beer, 8 
butts of wine, and several other articles 
in proportion. The expenses are so 
groat that a large capital is necessary 
to undertake a raft. Their navigation 
is a matter of considerable skill, owing 
to the abrupt windings, the rocks and 
shallows of the river; and some years 
ago the secret was thought to be mo¬ 
nopolised by a boatman of Riidcsheim 
and his sons. 

At present the rafts are not so large 
as formerly; instead of 900 feet in 
length, they are now commonly not 
more than 600 or 700 ; they never ex¬ 
ceed 250 in breadth, and are subjected 
to be measured at Caub, to ascertain 
that they do not exceed this width ; if 
larger they could not pass through the 
narrow channel between the rocks at 
Oberwesel. They do not draw more 
than 2 or 3 ft. of water. The smaller 
rafts, which still often require 400 men 
to navigate them, are both more easily 
managed, and can also set out from a 
higher point up the river than the 
larger floats. A single float is com¬ 
monly the property of a great number 
of shareholders. The timber is sold at 
the end of the voyage, and sometimes 
produces from 300,000 to 350,000 
florins (25,000/. or 30,000/.). During 
the years 1839, 1840, and 1841, the 
average quantity of timber imported 
into Holland by the Rhine amounted 
annually to 110,500 tons Eng. weight, 
consisting principally of wood suited 
for ship and house building, wainscot 
logs, spars, weals, staves, and firewood; 
the whole of which is consumed in 
Holland, with the exception of some 
; trifling quantity sent to the colonies. 
The value of the Rhenish timber con¬ 
sumed annually in Holland amount 
to about 170,000/. The voyage from 
Bingen to Dort may be performed, 
under favourable circumstances, in 8 


days ; but it sometimes takes up 6 
weeks. It is curious to find that the 
boatmen who navigate the Rhine still 
call the 1. bank of the river Franken- 
land, and designate the rt. Hessen- 
land,—though these names no longer 
apply to the present possessors of either 
bank. 

Steamboats on the Rhine. — 
(Seo Rte. 11.) 1. The best are those 

belonging to the Amalgamated Co¬ 
logne and Diisseldorf Company, who 
have built vessels in the American 
fashion, having lofty deck - saloons, 
with windows opening all round, so that 
the view is unimpeded, while the pas¬ 
sengers are under cover. They ascend 
from Cologne to Mainz in 12 hrs. 
Mainz to Cologne in 8 or 9 hrs. 

The fares are moderate, being kept 
so by the competition of the rlys. 
From Mainz to Coblenz, 1 thaler 
6 S. gr. Coblenz to Cologne, 1 thaler 
6 S. gr. 

If you have not paid your faro 
before entering the steamer, it is ad¬ 
visable to do so as soon as you are 
embarked, or the conductor may sum¬ 
mon you to pay from the steamer’s 
furthest point of departure. Passengers 
whose fare exceeds 20 S. gr., arc 
allowed to break the journey. 

2. The Netherlandish or Dutch Com¬ 
pany, between Rotterdam and Mann¬ 
heim. At the rate of 10 or 12 m. 
against the stream, and of 15 m. 
with it. 

Steamers daily in summer . 

Depar- Eng. 
ture, M. 

Mannheim to Mayence 2 or 3 = 51 
Mayence to Cologne . 4 to 6 = 116 
Cologne to Rotterdam, several = 198 

There are also night-steamers , fur¬ 
nished with sleeping-berths for passen¬ 
gers. 

As the hours of departure and arrival 
are constantly changing, the traveller 
is referred to the Companies’ printed 
bills, which he may obtain at their 
offices, and find in every inn or steam¬ 
boat he enters; or to Hendschcl’s 








264 


Sect. IV. 


ROUTE 37. —THE RHINE (c). SCENERY. 


time-tables at Frankfurt a. M. It is 
not always prudent to take informa¬ 
tion from innkeepers, nor from bills of 
ancient date hanging in their halls. 
To obtain positive accuracy it is best 
to go to the steamboat office. 

The steam-boats are divided into 3 
cabins:—1. The pavilion, or small state 
cabin in the stern of the vessel, is 
seldom occupied except by invalids 
and persons of distinction. The charge 
for it for a party amounts to 12 or 15, 
ordinary fares, 2. The chief cabin. 3. 
The after-cabin, for servants and infe¬ 
rior persons. 

Comfortable breakfasts and dinners 
are provided on board, at prices fixed 
by a printed tariff hung up in the 
cabin. Dinner at the table-d’hote,at 
1 o’clock, 20 S. gr.; half a bottle of 
wine, 6 S. gr.; tea or coffee, with 
bread and butter, 7 S. gr. 

Caution. — Places are booked at all 
parts of the Rhine and at Frankfurt 
direct f or London , daily , but the tickets 
so issued are available only for one set 
of steamers plying between Rotterdam 
and London. One of the Rhenish com¬ 
panies corresponds with the Batavier, 
which sails only once a week; conse¬ 
quently the unwary traveller may be 
detained 7 days at Rotterdam, unless 
he choose to sacrifice the money which 
ho has paid, and take a passage in 
the other company’s steamers. Even 
upon the Rhine it ; is scarcely worth 
while, for the sake of a small saving, 
to bind oneself down to go by the boats 
of a particular company. If the hour 
of departure happen not to suit the 
traveller, or he arrive too late for the 
boat to which he is engaged, he must 
either forfeit his money, or wait till the 
next day. If he pay the money in 
advance, he has probably only one 
chance in a day; if he is free, he has 
three or four up and down the river. 

In 1827, when the Cologne company 
commenced, 18,000 passengers were 
conveyed up and down, between Cologne 
andMayence; the number had increased 
to 800,000 in 1851, and is now not less 
than 1,000,000 

The completion of the Railways along 


both banks of the Rhine has diminished 
the use of steamers up the stream, 
except in that portion between Bonn 
and Mayence, where the deck of the 
steamer affords the best means of en¬ 
joying the scenery. 

The traveller who confines himself to 
the Rhine, and the routes contigu¬ 
ous to and branching off from it, 
will find that, with very few excep¬ 
tions, he may make his way very well 
without knowing any other language 
than French, which is generally spoken 
in the inns, passport and coach offices, 
and public conveyances, from Cologne 
to Mayence and Frankfurt, and thence 
to Baden. 

The money current upon the Rhine is, 
in Prussia, Dollars and Groschen (§ 47); 
higher up, in Nassau, Frankfurt, and 
Baden, Florins and Kreutzers. (Sec¬ 
tion VII.) 

Scenery of the Rhine. —The glo¬ 
ries of the Rhine commence about 20 
m. above Cologne with the beautiful 
cluster of mountains called the Sieben- 
gebirge; and the banks of the river 
afford, nearly up to Mayence, a succes¬ 
sion of scenes of equal beauty and 
variety. English travellers are often 
under the erroneous impression that 
they have seen the Rhine in passing up 
and down in a steam-vessel, and they 
hurry onwards to something beyond the 
Rhine. It may be said of them, in the 
words of a homely phrase, that they 
“ go farther and fare worse.” The 
views in many places, looking down 
upon the Rhine from its lofty banks, far 
surpass those from the river itself; and 
the small valleys, which pour in their 
tributary streams on the rt. hand and 1., 
have beauties to unfold of which the 
steam-driven tourist has no conception, 
which are entirely lost to him. At the 
same time, to avoid disappointment at 
first, he should remember that below 
Bonn or Godesberg he will find no¬ 
thing to admire in the scenery of 
the river. In order thoroughly to ex¬ 
plore and appreciate the Rhine, it 
is necessary every now and then to 
make a halt, and the following places 






Rhen. Prussia, route 37. —the rhine (c). cologne to bonn. 265 


appear the most appropriate stations to re¬ 
main at:— Godesberg, or Konigswinter; 
Coblenz; St. Goar; Bingen ; or Riidesheim. 

Railroads. —Cologne to Coblenz by 
Bonn, llolandseck, and Remagen , about 47 
Eng. m. Trains in 1^ hr. Terminus 
at Cologne (Central Bahn-hof), near 
the Dom. Express trains, Cologne to 
Mayence in 4f hrs.; ordinary trains G 
hrs. The seats on the 1. side of the 
carriages alone command the view. 
Quitting Cologne, the train leaves rt. 
the line to Aix (Rte. 36), passes the 
goods depot, and skirts the city walls 
on the W. side. 

Distance by the Rhine 54 Eng. m. 

The line at first runs through a plain 
of corn-fields, at some distance from the 
Rhine, and near a chain of hills called 
Yorgebirge. 

1. Kalscheuren Stat. 

- 5. Briihl Stat., in front of the Cha¬ 
teau built by the Episcopal Elector, 
Clement Augustus, 1728 : it was the 
residence of Marshal Davoust in the 
time of Napoleon, and now belongs to 
the Prussian Government. The King 

( of Prussia received Queen Victoria 
here in 1845, during the Beethoven fes¬ 
tival at Bonn. It contains some por- 
traitsof Electors and old Germanprinces, 
and has a garden and an old-fashioned 
park attached to it. 

The ancient Franciscan convent is 
now a seminary for schoolmasters. 
Briihl contains about 2000 Inhab. (Inns: 
Pavilion and Belvedere). 

1. The hunting-seat of Falkenlust, 
united to Briihl by avenues of trees, 
also belonged to the Electors. 

*7. Sechtem. 

At Waldorf are remains of a Roman 
aqueduct, which, extending up to the 
course of the Erft, conveyed its waters 
to the Rhine. 

•8. Roisdorf Stat. Here are mineral 
springs resembling the Seltzer water. 
The outline of the Seven Mountains be¬ 
yond the Rhine is a pleasing feature 
in the view. 

The Kreuzberg, with its ch., and 
the village of Poppelsdorf, are seen rt. 
before reaching 

•9. Bonn Stat., close to the horse- 
chcsnut avenue leading to Poppelsdorf. 
Omnibus from the stat. to the steamers. 

[n. g.] 


Several steamers start every morning 
from Cologne to Coblenz, making the 
voyage in 8 hrs., descending in 5. 

At the upper end of Cologne, at the 
margin of the river, rises the Bayen- 
thurm , a stately and picturesque Gothic 
tower of the 14th cent. From its 
position, projecting into the river, it 
serves in winter to stave off the ice- 
shocks from the city below. 

The chateau of Bensdorf , now a 
Prussian military academy. 

From Cologne to Bonn the banks of 
the Rhine are as flat and uninteresting 
as in Holland, and the villages which 
lie on them do not require any notice. 
On nearing Bonn, the picturesque out¬ 
line of the Siebengebirge (7 mountains) 
on the rt. bank, rivets the attention. 

rt. The castle of Siegburg, rising con¬ 
spicuously on an eminence above the 
Sicg, about 3 m. E. of the Rhine, is 
now a lunatic asylum. 

rt. Mouth of the river Sieg. The 
Sicambri (Sieg - ambri), an ancient 
people, lived upon its banks. 

rt. At Schwarz-Rheindorf, opposite 
Bonn, about ^ m. below the Flying 
Bridge, there is a curious architec¬ 
tural monument, The Stift Kirche —a 
church of 2 stories. It was erected by 
Arnold von Wied, Archbishop of Co¬ 
logne, in 1151, yet it is entirely in 
the Romanesque style, showing no 
traces of the pointed Gothic. The 
upper church, now restored for divine 
worship, is surrounded by an elegant 
open gallery or arcade, supported* by 
more than 100 little pillars, whose bases 
and capitals exhibit a prolific variety 
of ornament. It will interest architects 
and antiquaries. 

1. Bonn Stat., Buffet. Inns: Goldner 
Stern (Star), good and comfortable, 
in the market-place; Kbniglicher Hof 
(Royal Hotel), outside the Coblenz gate; 
Hotel Bellevue; Hotel Kley—these 3 
have gardens down to the water-side. 
Boarding House: Chateau du Rhin, close 
to the river, quiet, comfortable, and 
well kept. The red Ahr wines called 
Walporzheimer and Ahrbleichart, are 
very good here. 

Bonn, a town of 22,000 Inhab., on 
the 1. bank of the Rhine, is chiefly re- 

N 










266 


ROUTE 37. —THE RHINE (c). BONN. 


Sect. IV. 



markable for its University , established 
by the King of Prussia in 1818. Prince 
Albert was a student here, as well as 
Prince Alfred. This University is the 
one most frequented by the young no¬ 
bility of North Germany, who wear for 
the most part the white military cap. 
Among those who have filled chairs 
here, the most distinguished are Nie¬ 
buhr and A. "W. Schlegel, both dead. 

At the present time Pfliiger, the Phy¬ 
siologist, and Kekuly, the chemist, have 


European repute. The chemical labo¬ 
ratory is first rate. 

The Electors of Cologne formerly re¬ 
sided here, having removed their court 
hither from Cologne in 1268. Their 
huge palace, built 1730, nearly \ m. 
long, now serves to contain the Univer¬ 
sity; and includes the Lecture-rooms, 
Library of about 150,000 vols., and the 
Academical Hall , decorated with modern 
frescoes, painted under the direction of 
Cornelius by his pupils. The subjects 





























































































































Rhen. Prussia. 


267 


ROUTE 37. —TIIE RHINE (c). BONN. 


are the four faculties, Philosophy, Juris- 
prudence, Medicine, in which Cuvier 
and Linnaeus are conspicuous, and 
Theology, where Luther, Calvin, Wick- 
liffe, St. Jerome and the Fathers, Igna¬ 
tius Loyola, and other divines, both 
Catholic and Protestant, are introduced. 

The same building contains the Mu¬ 
seum of Rhenish Antiquities , a small but 
interesting assemblage of local remains 
discovered on the banks of the Rhine, 
and relics of Roman settlements in this 
part of Germany, in three small rooms, 
but not named nor catalogued. The 
following seem to be the most remark¬ 
able objects :—A Roman altar, dedicated 
to Victory, which formerly stood in the 
square called Romerplatz, and is sup¬ 
posed by some to be the identical Ara 
Ubiorum mentioned by Tacitus (Annal. 
I. 39). A bronze vase, bearing figures 
of Hercules, Mars, and Venus, in a pure 
style of art, found at Zulpich. Nume¬ 
rous weapons, trinkets, vases, glass ves¬ 
sels, a winged head of Mercury, found 
at Haddernheim; the gravestone of 
one M. Caelius, who fell in the great 
battle of Varus against Arminius, very 
interesting from the event it com¬ 
memorates, as well as for its re- 

I presentation of Roman military cos¬ 
tume; Jupiter’s wig and a thunderbolt 
of bronze, from the Hundsriick; tiles 
stamped with the numbers of several 
Roman legions (xxi. xxii.) stationed in 
these parts ; a Roman millstone of Men- 
dig tufa, and an ancient German shield 
of wood, dug up at Isenburg, in Westpha- 
lia, besides 200 bronzes. The Univer- 
setatspedell shows the hall—fee 5 S. gr., 
for the Museum 8 S. gr. The collec¬ 
tions are opened to the public Wed. and 
Sat., 12-1; the library on the same 
I days, 2-4. 

A double Avenue of chesnuts , about 
^ m. long, forming an agreeable walk, con¬ 
ducts to the Chateau of Poppelsdorf, con¬ 
taining the Museum of Natural History. 
The collection of minerals and fossils is 
extensive and good, and especially in¬ 
teresting, as illustrating the geology of 
the Rhine, and of the volcanic deposits 
of the Siebcngebirge and Eifel, arranged 
by Prof. Goldfuss. Among the fossil 
remains may be seen a complete series 
from the brown coal formation of Fries- 


dorf, near Bonn. A set of fossil frogs, 
from the most perfect state down to that 
of a tadpole, discovered in the shale 
called paper-coal, deserves notice. At¬ 
tached to the Chateau is the Botanic 
Garden , very spacious, very rich, and 
beautifully situated. f hour’s good 
walking brings you from this garden to 
the church on the Kreutzberg. 

The Minster , a fine building exter¬ 
nally, surmounted by 5 towers, was 
founded, it is said, by Helena, mother 
of Constantine the Great, and contains 
a bronze statue of her, in the style and 
of the age of Louis XIV. The circuit 
of the choir and its 2 towers were 
apparently built in the 10th cent.: 
the rest, including the middle tower, 
about 1177. The more remarkable parts 
are the central tower, the windows of 
the nave formed of 5 small pointed 
arches, and the cloisters; from this 
peculiar arrangement and the early 
character of the work. The interior 
is very plain. 

To the Reading-Rooms of the Univer¬ 
sity admission may be obtained by a 
Professor’s order. 

The English Ch. Service is performed 
on Sunday by an English clergyman, 
in the University Ch. 

There is a very good club (§ 43) here, 
called Lese- and Erholungs- Gesellschaft. 

Dr. Wolff is a clever and safe phy¬ 
sician ; also Prof. Busch: both speak 
English. Dr. Perry , an English gentle¬ 
man (Poppelsdorfer Allee), receives a 
few pupils in his house, and prepares 
them for competitive examinations in 
the military and civil service ; also for 
a mercantile career. 

Beethoven, the composer, was born 
(1770, d. 1827) in the house No. 934, 
Rheingasse. A bronze statue by Hiihnel 
was erected to him in 1845, in the 
Miinster-platz; and one of Arndt, the 
poet and patriot, on the Alte Zoll. Two 
of his maxims are inscribed on the bas- 
relief. 

In the Churchyard, outside the 
Sternen Thor, Niebuhr the historian is 
buried. His monument, raised to his 
memory by his pupil King Frederick 
William IV., is by Rauch. Also 
A. W. Sclilegel and Robert Schumann, 
the musician (d. in a madhouse 1856), 

N 2 








268 


Sect. IV. 


R. 37. —THE RHINE (c). BONN TO COBLENZ. 


Here also are the graves of several 
students killed in duels. A small Ro¬ 
manesque chapel (d. 1200), brought 
from Romersdorf, has been set up here. 

Bonn, mentioned by Tacitus as Castra 
Bonnensia, was one of the chief Roman 
fortresses on the Rhine, founded pro¬ 
bably by Drusus, and was the spot 
where Claudius Civilis, the rebel leader 
of the Batavi, was defeated by the 
Romans, A. d. 70. (Hist. iv. 20.) 

The most notable events in the annals 
of Bonn are its capture after a long 
siege, in 1584, by Archbp. Ernest of 
Bavaria, from Gebhard Truchsess, who 
had been deposed from the see because 
he had become a Protestant; and its 
surrender to the English and Dutch 
army under Marlborough, in 1703, after 
a siege, the operations of which were 
conducted by the celebrated Coehorn. 
In the course of it a great part of the 
town was burnt. 

Excursions. —At Bonn the beauties of 
the Rhine may be said to have already 
commenced, and the view of the Seven 
Mountains on the opposite side of the 
river is strikingly grand. They are 
seen to great advantage from (a) the 
commanding terrace , called Alte Zoll , 
overlooking the Rhine, outside the 
Coblenz gate, or (b) from the summit 
of the Kreuzberg, one of the hills 
behind Poppelsdorf, 1^ m. from Bonn. 
Here is a church formerly attached to 
a convent of Servites, built 1627. 
In a chapel behind the altar are shown 
the Sacred Stairs which led up to 
Pilate’s Judgment Hall, still bearing 
stains of the blood which fell from 
the wounds caused on the Saviour’s 
brow by the Crown of Thorns ! They 
were built of Italian marble by the 
Elector Clement Augustus (1725), in 
imitation of the staircase at Rome called 
the ScalaSanta; andnoone is allowed to 
ascend them except on his knees. The 
church is annually visited by numerous 
pilgrims, chiefly the rude peasants of the 
Eifel. In the crypt beneath lie 25 mum¬ 
mied monks. Let them rest in peace. 

(c). A pleasant walk of 2 hrs. through 
woods and thickets will take you to 
and from the top of the Venusberg , which 
is one of the very best points of view. 

Agreeable expeditions may be made 


from Bonn to—1. Godesberg, on the 
road to Coblenz, and the .Alum Works 
at Friesdorf; 2. The Drachenfels and 
Siebengebirge, with the ruins of Heis- 
terbach on the opposite side of the 
Rhine, described further on; 3. The 
Lower Eifel (Rte. 40); 4. The valley of 
the Ahr (Rte. 39). A direct carriage-road 
leads over the hills to Altenahr, 18 m. 

Steamer, Bonn to Coblenz, 4^ hrs. 

Omnibus to Siegburg Stat., Rte. 47, 
beyond the Rhine; crossing it by the 
flying bridge. 

BONN TO COBLENZ. 

Steamers in 4—4^ hrs. 

Railway , 1 hr. 10 m. to 1 hr. 40 m., 
traversing the Poppelsdorf Avenue, 
runs at first across the plains at a little 
distance from the Rhine. 

(1.) After leaving Bonn about 3 m., see 
1. a Gothic Cross called ffochkreuz, erected 
by an Archbishop of Cologne, 1331. 

49 [About 1 m. from this, to the 
rt. of the road, are the brown-coal 
mines and alum - works of Friesdorf. 
The stratum here worked is, in fact, a 
forest, buried in an early period of the 
world’s existence, and now converted 
into lignite or brown coal. The trunks 
of trees are intermixed with clays and 
sands, and exhibit all the stages from 
fossil wood, in which the vegetable 
fibre and texture are quite discernible, 
down to bituminous earthy coal fit for 
burning as fuel. Many fossil fishes and 
freshwater shells are found in these beds. 
Associated with the coal is a stratum 
furnishing the ingredients for extensive 
alum-works. The alum of commerce is 
a compound of sulphuric acid, potash, 
and aluminous earth, and all these sub¬ 
stances are obtained on the spot, from 
materials found in contact with the 
alum clay. The sulphuric acid is formed 
by the action of air and moisture upon 
iron pyrites (sulphuret of iron), previ¬ 
ously gently roasted, and the potash 
from the ashes of the brown coal used 
as fuel in evaporating and crystallising 
the alum salt. The same mine fur¬ 
nishes a fine potter’s clay, which is used 
in making the conical moulds employed » 
in refining beet-root sugar, which is 
extensively manufactured hereabouts. 





Rhen. Prussia. R. S’/.-^TiiE Mine (c). 60Di!sB£ftGh 


At Putzburg, near Friesdorf, gigantic 
trunks of trees, sometimes 10 or 12 ft. 
in diameter, occur embedded in the 
strata. The earthy brown coal worked 
here affords the valuable pigment known 
by the name of burnt umber, or Co¬ 
logne earth.] 

1. Plittersdorf, a village of quaint 
houses fronting the river. Here the 
steamer stops for passengers to or from 
Godesberg, 1£ m. distant from the 
Ithine, and 5 from Bonn. Here is a 
ferry to Nieder-Dollendorf (fare, 1 S. gr.). 

[About 2 m. inland S.E. from Nieder- 
Dollendorf lie the ruins of the Cistercian 
Abbey of Heisterbach. A carriage-road 
•leads to it. The pedestrian, after pass¬ 
ing Ober-Dollendorf, will proceed by a 
wooded path into the Pctersthal, a se¬ 
cluded valley at the base of the Peters- 
berg, one of the Seven Mountains, in 
which the Abbey lies. A fragment— 
the apse of the choir—alone remains to 
attest its ancient magnificence. It is a 
beautiful specimen of the finest style of 
the transition from the round to the 
pointed styles—begun in 1202, finished 
1233. The building was sold for the 
mere value of the materials by the 
French in 1806, and the greater part 
was pulled down and removed to form 
the fortifications of Wesel. The beau¬ 
tiful fragment which still exists is care¬ 
fully preserved from further decay by 
the Count zur Lippe-Biesterfeld, its 
present owner, and well deserves the 
stranger’s attention.] 

(6) Godesberg Stat. Inn: Blunder's 
Hotel—very good. Table-d’hote, 15 S. 
gr.; in private, 1 th.; table wine, 15 
S. gr.; breakfast and tea, 10 S. gr.; 
bed, 15 S. gr. , Visitors may board 
at 5 frs. a day, exclusive of wine. 
Donkeys ply near the hotel, to convey 
persons up to the castle, or for other 
excursions in the neighbourhood. 

Godesberg, a village of 1000 Inhab., 
on the high road, is, on account of its 
situation, near the Ithine, an agreeable 
summer residence. Many merchants 
of Cologne, Elberfeld, &c., have villas 
here. Near it is a mineral spring, called 
Draitscher Brunnen, where there are 
baths, 10 S. gr. each. 

£ m. from the stat., to be reached by 
numerous paths winding round the hill, 


269 

is the ancient Castle Keep. It was built 
by the warlike Archbishops of Cologne, 
1212, on the site of a Roman fort, and 
served them long as a stronghold, till 
the Bavarians took it and blew it up, 
1583, because it held out for the Pro¬ 
testant Arclibp. GebhardTruchscss. The 
cylindrical Donjon tower (100 ft. high, 
built 1340) commands a beautiful pro¬ 
spect over the Rhine. The key is kept 
at the well below. The interior of 
the castle is now the village eh.-yard. 

Godesberg is 1^ m. distant from the 
Rhine : persons staying here may make 
exclusions to—1. The volcanic hill of 
Roderberg. 2. The Seven Mountains. 
The nearest way to them is to cross the 
Rhine by the Flying Bridge to Ivonigs- 
ivinter, at the foot of the Drachcnfels. 
This excursion may he lengthened profit¬ 
ably, by ascending the 1. bank of tho 
Rhine as far as Rolandseck, and, after 
exploring its ruined castle, crossing in 
a boat to Nonnenwerth and then chop¬ 
ping down the river to KonigsAvinter. 
The excursion will not take up more 
than a day, and is decidedly a veiy in¬ 
teresting 6ne. 3. The short tour up the 
valley of the Ahr (Rte. 39). 4. “A 

visit to the abbey of Heisterbach may 
be combined with the tour of the Seven 
Mountains, but is better made' sepa¬ 
rately, crossing the Rhine hy the ferry 
from Plittersdorf (1.) to Nieder-Dollen¬ 
dorf. 

Mehlcm Stat. is 5 min.’s walk from 
the Rhine, and from the ferry (flying 
bridge) across it to 

rt. Konigswinter {Inns: II. de 1’Eu¬ 
rope, comfortable—Hotel de Berlin ; 
both overlooking the Rhine), a village 
of 1500 Inhab., at the foot of the Dra- 
chenfels, A\ r hich is most conveniently 
ascended from this in 30 min. Hein¬ 
rich Becher is a good guide to the 
7 mountains. Asses for the ascent of 
the mountain cost 10 S. gr.; to Hei¬ 
sterbach, 2^ m., 20 S. gr. The foot¬ 
path to Heisterbach Ch. (described 
above) is shorter than the road and 
very pleasant, but difficult to find with¬ 
out a guide. Boats to Nonnemverth. 
and hack, 20 S. gr.; to Bonn, 15 S. gr 

rt. The Seven Mountains (Siebcn- 
gebirge). This group of hills, in reality 





2?0 


Sect. IV* 


ROUTE 3?.—THE RHINE 

more than 7 in number, forma a grand 
commencement to the beautiful scenery 
of the Rhine. They are the highest 
and wildest on its banks, entirely of 
volcanic origin, and consist of lava, 
trachyte, and basalt, ejected through 
the rocks, which form the basement of 
the surrounding country, by subterra¬ 
neous eruptions which took place pre¬ 
vious to the existence of any human 
record or tradition. The names and 
heights of the 7 principal summits 
(for there are many minor heights) are 
as follows:—Stromberg, 1053 ft.; Nie- 
derstromberg, 1066 ft.; Oelberg, 1453 
ft. (the highest); Wolkenberg, 1055 ft.; 
Drachenfels, 1056 ft.; Lowenberg, 1414 
ft. (commanding a view considered by 
some superior to that from the Drachen¬ 
fels) ; and Hemmerich. They are al¬ 
most all crowned with a chapel or the 
ruin of some ancient tower or hermit’s 
cell, which adds much to their pictur¬ 
esque features. 

The trachyte rock of the Wolkenberg 
is quarried to a considerable extent as 
building stone. It abounds in the mi¬ 
neral called glassy felspar. 

The most interesting of the whole 
group, from its shape and position, but 
more than all from the verses of Byron, 
is the famed Drachenfels (Dragon 
Rock), whose precipices rise abruptly 
from the river side, crowned with a 
ruin. 

“ The castled crag of Drachenfels 

Frowns o’er the wide and winding Rhine, 
Whose breast of waters broadly swells 
Between the banks which bear the vine; 
And hills all rich with blossom’d trees, 

And fields which promise corn and wine, 
And scatter’d cities crowning these, 

Whose far white walls along them shine, 
Have strew’d a scene which I should see 
With double joy wert thou with me. 

“ And peasant girls with deep blue eyes. 

And hands which offer early flowers, 

Walk smiling o’er this paradise ; 

Above, the frequent feudal towers 
Through green leaves lift their walls of gray, 
And many a rock which steeply lowers, 

And noble arch in proud decay, 

Look o’er this vale of vintage-bowers; 

But one thing want these banks of Rhine,— 
Thy gentle hand to clasp in mine! 

“ The river nobly foams and flows, 

The charm of this enchanted ground, 

And all its thousand turns disclose 
Some fresher beauty varying round : 

The haughtiest breast its wish might bound 


(c). DRACHENFELS. 

Through life to dwell delighted here ; 

Nor could on earth a spot be found 
To nature and to me so dear, 

Could thy dear eyes in following mine ^ 
Still sweeten more these banks of Rhine!’ 

Byron. 

Tbe summit of the Drachenfels com¬ 
mands a noble view, and it may be 
reached in about half an hour from 
Konigswinter. The slopes are covered 
with brushwood, through which the path 
winds, except near the summit where 
the rock break through. The traveller 
is shown the quarry from which the 
blocks of trachyte were originally taken 
to build the cathedral of Cologne, called, 
in consequence, Dombruch, and the 
cave of the Dragon (from which the 
mountain was named) killed, as it is 
reported, by the homed Siegfried, the 
hero of the Niebelungen Lay. On a 
platform a little below the top is a toler¬ 
able tavern, where people may dine. 
The ruined fragment on the top of a 
tall keep-tower, reduced to 3 sides 
of wonderfully solid masonry, is of 
remote origin, and was once the seat of 
a noble race, long since extinct, named 
after the mountain on which they dwelt. 
They were dependent upon the Archbp. 
of Cologne as feudal superior, and seem to 
have chosen this airy situation for their 
castle from the facilities it afforded them 
for spying at a distance the merchant’s 
laden boat or labouring waggon, and 
for sallying down to pillage or exact 
tribute. 

The View hence extends down the 
river as far as Cologne, 20 m. off; up¬ 
wards, the Rhine is soon shut in by rocks, 
which, however, are very grand, while 
Bonn and its University, with old 
castles, villages, and farm-houses almost 
beyond number, fill up the foreground 
of the landscape. The principal objects 
are Rcmagen and Apollinarisberg, the 
volcanic chain of the Eifel behind, Obcr- 
winter and the island Nonnenwerth, 
the ruined arch of Rolandseck, the ex¬ 
tinct crater of Roderberg, and the don¬ 
jon of Godesbcrg. 

Scarcely less interesting is the view 
in the rear of the Drachenfels, over the 
Seven Mountains and their interven¬ 
ing valleys. The ruins on several of 
their summits are remains of castles 
of the Archbishops of Cologne. In 




271 


R. 37. —THE RHINE (c). ROLANDSECK. 


liken. Prussia. 

that which crowned the Lowenberg 
the reformers Melancthon and Bucer 
passed some time with the Archbp. Her¬ 
man von Wied, who afterwards adopted 
the reformed faith; and his successor, 
the Protestant Archbp. Gebhard Truch- 
scss, took refuge here, with his beauti¬ 
ful wife, Agnes von Mansfeldt, 1585. 
The view from this summit extends 
hack over part of the Westerwald and 
of Westphalia. 

1. Hear Mehlem is the Roderberg , 
one of the most interesting extinct 
volcanoes on the Rhine. Its crater 
is circular, nearly \ m. in diameter, 
and 100 ft. deep. It is now covered 
with fields of com. The sides are 
composed in many places of tufa 
and scoriae, exactly similar to those 
found on Vesuvius. From this crater 
you may walk through the gorge called 
Eiiasschlucht to the ridge on which 
stand the ruined arch and turrets of (1.) 
the Castle of Rolandseck , an admirable 
point of view for surveying the Rhine. 
This ruin receives its name from a tra¬ 
dition that the famous nephew of Char¬ 
lemagne chose this spot because it com¬ 
manded a view of the Convent of Non- 
nenwerth, within whose walls his be¬ 
trothed bride had taken the veil upon 
hearing a false report of his having 
fallen at Roncesvalles. He lived here 
a lonely hermit for many years, accord¬ 
ing to the story, which has furnished 
the subject of one of Schiller’s most 
beautiful ballads, ‘ The Knight of Tog- 
genburg.’ The scene, however, has 
been transferred by Schiller from the 
Rhine to Switzerland, and the tale to 
the time of the Crusades. The castle is 
called, in the oldest records where it 
is mentioned, Rulcheseck, and the con¬ 
vent Rulcheswerth. The former was, 
at one time, a nest of robbers, whose 
depredations rendered them the terror 
of the vicinity. 

Rolandseck Stat. Buffet, good. Inns: 
II. de Roland, with pretty garden, at 
foot of the rock: H. de Rolandseck, 
often full in summer. II. Billau. 

The bold and precipitous rock of 
Rolandseck, composed of prismatic 
basalt, with its scanty and mouldering 


baronial fortress and desolate arch, is a 
very striking object from the river. Its 
summit, ~ m. from the Stat., 340 ft. 
above the Rhine, commands a view 
less extensive but more picturesque 
than that from the Drachenfels on the 
opposite bank. Rolandseck projects so 
far forward, that the rail and high road 
have barely room to pass between its 
foot and the brink of the Rhine. 

Exactly opposite, in the middle of the 
stream, is the island of Nonnenwerth 
(Nun’s island), so called from the large 
building upon it, embowered in trees, 
an Ursuline nunnery, built 1673, on 
the site of that which was once the 
asylum of the bride of the unfortunate 
Roland. The amiable intercession of 
Josephine with Napoleon, on behalf 
of the nuns, is said to have preserved 
to them the possession of their ancient 
retreat, at the time when the other re¬ 
ligious establishments on the Rhine 
were secularised by the French. It 
still remains in the condition in which 
it was left by its former inmates, and 
has been again converted into a nun¬ 
nery for Sisters of Charity. 

1. Oberwinter, a village through 
which the road passes. 

The greater part of the road from 
Rolandseck to Remagen may be said 
to be literally quarried in the rock. It 
was begun by the Bavarians, continued 
by the French, and completed by the 
Prussians. The Romans, however, 
have the credit of laying the founda¬ 
tions of this noble highway, as was 
proved by remains turned up by the 
modern road-makers, such as coffins, 
coins, and a Roman milestone, the in¬ 
scription of which proved, that under 
Marcus Aurelius and Lucius Verus, 
a.d. 161-180, a road had been already 
formed here. 

1. Opposite the village of Unkel, 
whose market-place abounds with pic¬ 
turesque houses, is the Unkelstein, a 
hill composed of basaltic columns, re¬ 
sembling those of the Giant’s Cause- . 
way. They are found both in a hori¬ 
zontal and vertical position, and extend 
far into the bed of the Rhine, where 
they formed an obstacle to the passage 
of timber-rafts, until the rock was blown 
up by the French. As it is, the current 





272 


Sect. IV. 


ROUTE 37. —THE RHINE (c). REMAGEN. 


of the Rhine sweeps with great force 
past the UiLkelstein. The basalt affords 
the best material for roads and pave¬ 
ments, on which account it is exten¬ 
sively quarried. In 1846 a landslip in 
the basalt lifted up the high-road 40 ft. 
above its former level. 

1. Apollinarisberg , a wooded height, 
named after a Saint, whose head is pre¬ 
served here, hears on it a Church , a poor 
attempt at modern Gothic, designed 
by Zwirner (the restorer of the Dom 
of Cologne), for Graf Fiirstenberg of 
Stammheim. It is decorated inter¬ 
nally with Frescoes , which, ranking as 
some of the best works of the Ger¬ 
man school, are well worth the tra¬ 
veller’s attention, and especially of all 
English artists. The subjects and 
artists are as folloAvs:—Entering by 
the W. door : on the 1. are scenes from 
the life of Christ, by Deger. In the 
N. transept, St. Apollinaris destroying, 
through prayer, the statue of Jupiter 
in the presence of the Roman Empr., 
by A. Muller. Figures of Saints, by 
Ittenbach. The Crucifixion, and, be¬ 
neath, the Passion of Christ, by Deger. 
Justice, Prudence, Fortitude, and Tem¬ 
perance, by Ittenbach. Martyrdom of 
St. Apollinaris, by A. Muller. In the 
choir: on the 1. the Resurrection of 
Christ, by Deger. Noli me tangere, 
and Delivery of the Keys to Peter, by 
Ittenbach. On the arch of the apse, the 
Adoration of the Lamb, and the Sacra¬ 
ments, by C. Muller. In the apse, 
Christ among the Saints of the old and 
new Covenant, by Deger. On the rt. 
of the choir, the Coronation of the 
Virgin, by C. Muller. In the S. 
transept, the episcopal ordination of St. 
Apollinaris, by A. Muller. SS. Theo¬ 
dore, Sophia, Francis of Assisi, and V. 
Paula, patrons of the founder and his 
family, by Ittenbach. Annunciation, 
Marriage, and Visitation of the Virgin 
(close to the window), by C. Muller. 
Faith, Love, Hope, and Humility, by 
Ittenbach. St. Apollinaris raises the 
daughter of the Governor of Ravenna, 
by A. Midler. On the rt. on entering 
by the W. door, Scenes from the Le¬ 
gends of the Virgin, by Ittenbach. There 
is a very good distant view of the 7 


mountains from the Apollinarisberg. 
Ch. open to 12 and 2 to 4. At the 
foot of the hill lies 

1. 2§ Remagen Stat. (Inns: Hotel 
Fiirstenberg; Konig von Preussen) ; 
the Rigomagus of the Romans, a town 
of 1400 Inhab. The Church , built 
1246, ending in a polygonal apse, and 
containing old frescoes, is not unde¬ 
serving of notice. Ohs. the sculptured 
string-course in AV. tower. See the 
Romanesque Gateway , part of the Palace 
of the Frankish kings, now leading to 
the Pfarrhof, close to the church. The 
sculptures on it are quaint and difficult 
to explain ;—on the 1. jamb, a warrior 
trampling on another man; griffins; 
a man in a tub, &c. On the arch, 
figures male and female with fishes’ 
tails and birds, a sow with 3 pigs, &c. 
A Roman milestone dug up here proves 
that the Roman road passed this way 
to Cologne, distant 30,000 passuum. 

Excursions may conveniently he made 
from this—1, to Ahrweiler, Neuenahr, 
and Altenahr, in the Ahr valley (Rte. 
39); 2, to Brohl and the Lake of Laach, 
returning by Andernach. A carriage 
with 2 horses—to Ahrweiler, 2 thr.; 
to Altenahr, 3 thr. (to and fro 4£ to 5 
tlir.); to the Lake of Laach and back 
(a day), 4§ thr. ; but see the tariff. 

The Railway above Remagen quits 
the side of the Rhine, crossing a flat 
plain to avoid a great bend which the 
river makes, to Niederbreisig. On the 
way the bed of the Ahr, nearly dry in 
summer, is crossed. 

rt. A little beyond Remagen, on the 
opposite bank, rise the basaltic preci¬ 
pices, 700 ft. high, called Erpeler Lei , 
hollowed into quarries of paving stones. 
The ingenuity of man has converted 
these barren rocks, which are almost 
inaccessible, into a productive vine¬ 
yard. The vines are planted in baskets 
filled with mould, and inserted in cre¬ 
vices of the basalt. By this means alone 
can the earth he preserved from being 
washed away by every shower. 

rt. The blackened walls of the ruined 
castle of Ockenfels. A little further on is 

rt. Linz (Lnn: Nassauer Hof), 
an ancient fortified town, partly sur- 



l\he)i. Prussia, Route 8?.—the RHiiiE (c). smziG. brohl. 2t3 


rounded by walls of basalt; it bas 
2200 Inhab. An Arclibp. of Cologne, 
in 1365, built the tower, still standing, 
near the Rhine gate, to enforce the pay¬ 
ment of tolls on the river, and to defend 
the place from the Burghers of Ander- 
nach, who were engaged in almost per¬ 
petual feuds with him and the towns¬ 
people of Linz. The Pfarrkirche , on 
the height behind, commands a fine 
view; it contains a monument to the 
Counts of Renneberg, 1257, one of 
the noble families of the neighbour¬ 
hood, and a remarkable picture of 7 
compartments, probably of the school 
of Cologne, bearing the date 1463. 
A cross 40 ft. high has been placed on 
the top of the Hummelsberg, a hill be¬ 
hind Linz, as a memorial of the battle 
of Leipzig. About an hour’s walk from 
Linz are extensive and picturesque 
* Quarries of columnar basalt, like that 
of the Giant’s Causeway, or Fingal’s 
Cave in the Isle of StafFa, near the 
summit of the Minderberg; carriage- 
road to within 300 yds. of the top ; fine 
view. The basalt quarries of Datten- 
berg are only 20 min. walk from Linz. 

1. The river Ahr issues into the 
Rhine opposite Linz. As its mouth is 
passed, the black conical summit of the 
Landskrone is seen up the Ahr valley. 

Travellers by steamer may best visit 
Sinzig by landing at Linz, and crossing 
in a boat—ascending the Ahr, 1§ m. 

1. 1^ Sinzig Stat. [Inns: Stern ; 
Krone), an old walled town, about 1£ 
m. from the Rhine, was the Sentiacum 
of the Romans. The Parish Church is 
an interesting building, of the time 
of the transition from the round to the 
pointed style, dating probably from the 
beginning of the 13th cent. The deco¬ 
ration of the W. front, and of the ends 
of the transepts, resemble, on a smaller 
scale, those of the ch. at Neuss. The 
transition style is seen in the polygonal 
form of the choir, with a gable over each 
side. The interior resembles the ch. 
at Andemach, in having both pointed 
and circular arches, and over each aisle 
a gallery, called here the Mannhaus. 
According to an • obscure tradition, 
near this spot the Cross appeared in 
the sky to Constantine, on his march 
to attack Maxentius, There is a rude 


painting representing this event in the 
church; and in an adjoining chapel a 
natural mummy, called the Holy Vogt, 
carried to Paris by the French. Out of 
the ruins of the Reichs-Pfalz (Palace of 
the Empire), rt. of the stat., a Gothic 
castle has been raised by a merchant of 
Antwerp. Diligence to Ahrweiler in 

H hr. 

rt. The gable-fronted chateau of Ar- 
genfels or Ahrenfels, the Stammhaus, 
or cradle of the family von der Leyen, 
is seen in the distance behind the 
ancient village of Ilonningen. It has 
been restored by Graf Westerholz, and 
a chapel with spire added. 

1. Niederbreisig Stat. Further from 
the river lies Oberbreisig, with a curious 
ch. of the 14th cent. 

1. The train passes under the Castle 
of Pheineck , an ancient watch-tower, 65 
ft. high, to which a modern castel¬ 
lated residence was added, 1832, 
at a lavish expense, by Lassaulx, 
for Mr. Bethman-IIollweg. The archi¬ 
tectural taste displayed in this 
edifice is very questionable ; but it 
contains some modern pictures, and in 
its chapel are frescoes of the Beatitudes 
by Steinle. It is shown to strangers 
when the owner is absent. Its garden 
commands a fine view,and is always open. 

1. Brohl Stat., a small village (Nonn’s 
Inn, tolerable), at the mouth of the 
stream and valley of the Brohl. It 
possesses a paper-mill, and several 
others moved by the streams of the 
Brohl-Bach for grinding tuff-stone into 
trass (Dutch tiras— i. e. cement); and 
there are very singular cave-like quar¬ 
ries of tuff-stone about a mile up the 
stream. This rock resembles the tufa 
formed at the present day by Etna, 
Vesuvius, and other active volcanoes, 
and is probably the result cither of 
a torrent of volcanic mud discharged 
from some extinct crater into the val¬ 
ley, or of showers of pumice and ashes, 
thrown up by one of the volcanoes 
of the Eifel, falling into a lake, mix¬ 
ing with the mud at the bottom of 
it, and now consolidated into a soft 
stone. This, when quarried and ground 
into powder, is called trass , and from 
its possessing the valuable property 
of hardening under water is in great 

N 3 






274 ROUTE 3 1 .—THE RHINE 

request as a cement. Large quan¬ 
tities are exported from this to dis¬ 
tant countries, especially into Hol¬ 
land, where it is employed in the con¬ 
struction of the dykes; it resembles 
the puzzolana of Naples, and the imi¬ 
tation of it, Roman cement. The an¬ 
cients made use of this kind of stone 
for coffins; and from its property of 
absorbing the moisture of the dead 
body, gave them the name of sarcophagi, 
i. e. flesh consumers. Votive tablets, 
bearing Roman inscriptions, have been 
discovered in the Rhenish quarries, 
proving at how early a period they 
were worked. Trunks of trees reduced 
to the condition of charcoal, and even 
land-shells of various species, are em¬ 
bedded in the substance of the rock. 

The mineral spring called Tbnnisstein 
lies 4£ m. up the valley. (See Rte. 40.) 

[The pleasant day’s excursion to the 
* Lake of Laach , described in Rte. 40, 
may be made from Brohl, returning 
to the Rhine at Andernach.] 

The rly. cuts through the lava 
stream descending from the Fornicher- 
kopf. 

rt. On the summit of a bold, black, 
precipitous rock, opposite to an island 
in the river, stand the broken walls 
of Hammerstein castle , built in the 
10th cent., the refuge in 1105 of the 
Empr. Henry IV., when persecuted 
by his son, and the place of deposit 
for the time of the regalia of the Em¬ 
pire. It was besieged by the Swedes in 
the Thirty Years’ war, and destroyed by 
the Archbp. of Cologne in 1660. The 
small old ch. within it is interesting. 

1. Namedy has a pretty church. 

The rly. passes by the side of the 
Rhine, under the old walls of Ander- 
nach; and at a distance of a mile from 
the town is 

(1.) Andernach Stat. [Inn: H. Hack- 
enbruck), one of the oldest cities on the 
Rhine, 3000 Inhab. It was called by 
the Romans Antonacum, and originated 
in one of Drusus’ camps pitched on the 
spot. Most of the present fortifications 
date from 1577-83. The picturesque 
telescope Watch-tower , at the lower end 
of the town, by the water-side, round 
below, and eight-sided above (date 


(c). ANDERNACH. Sect, t V. 

1520), its side breached by French can¬ 
nons 1668, and the Crane , a little lower 
down the stream, built 1554, add to its 
air of picturesque antiquity. 

There are 2 articles of traffic pe¬ 
culiar to this spot: millstones obtained 
from very singular quarries nearNieder- 
Mendig, and exported to England, 
Russia, the East and West Indies, and 
to other remote parts of the world. 
They were used by the Romans, and 
have been found among Roman ruins 
in England, and are spoken of as Rhe¬ 
nish millstones by Latin authors. The 
stone is a species of basaltic lava which 
separates into columns, and is used as 
door-posts, window-sills, and side-posts 
at the corners of the streets, &c. (Rte. 
40.) Another volcanic production is 
the trass, or cement, brought from the 
neighbouring quarries of Brohl and 
Kruft. A species of pumice called 
Oven-stone, because, from its resisting 
heat, it is used for lining ovens, is also 
obtained from 14 quarries at Bell near 
Nieder-Mendig, 5 m. W. of Andernach. 

The Parish Church has 4 towers; 
those at the W. end tall and much or¬ 
namented, built, together with the nave, 
in the beginning of the 13th cent., 
but the choir, the tower on its N. side, 
and the lower part of that on its S. 
side, belong probably to a preceding 
church of the 10th, which so far es¬ 
caped the destruction of Andernach 
by Philip of Hohenstaufen about 1200. 
A bas-relief over the S. door, the carv¬ 
ings of the capitals which support- it, 
and the ornaments on the W. facade, 
are interesting specimens of sculpture. 
The interior is supported upon 2 
tiers of arches of nearly equal height; 
behind the upper tier runs a spacious 
gallery, intended for the male part of 
the congregation, and called the mdn- 
nerchor , or mannshaus; the women sate 
below. The pulpit once belonged to 
the abbey ch. at Laach. The Franciscan 
ch. 1414-63, now a stable, has only 1 
aisle attached to the nave. 

Beneath the Rathhaus is a Jews' 
Bath , of considerable antiquity (per¬ 
haps Roman). It has not been used 
since the Jews were expelled from the 
town, 1596; they have never since 
been allowed to settle here. 





Miien. Prussia. 

The Coblenz Gate is an elegant Gothic 
portal. Adjoining it, on the rt. of the 
road, are the extensive ruins of the 
castellated Palace of the Archbishops of 
Cologne, built about the end of the 15th 
cent.; destroyed by the French, 1668. 

Not far from the Stat., on the rt., 
are the noble remains of the Abbey of 
St. Thomas, a convent for ladies of 
rank, which was burnt in 1795. It is 
now turned into an asylum for incur¬ 
able lunatics. The architecture of St. 
Michael’s chapel, attached to it, is in¬ 
teresting : it was built in 1129. 

Excursions to the lake and abbey 
of Laach (Rte. 40) may be made in a 
•carriage from hence, as a tolerable 
road leads thither through Wassenach 
(6 in.), also to Schloss Elz. 

At Andernach the mountains on 
both sides of the Rhine again approach 
the river, and form a majestic defile. 

From Andernach to Coblenz the 
banks of the Rhine are flat. 

rt. Just above the village of Irrlich 
the river Wied issues out into the 
Rhine. A long avenue, partly of tall 
poplars, joins Irrlich with Neuwied. 

1. The small river Nette is crossed 
by thcrly. By following the Nette up¬ 
wards a good road leads to the Lake of 
Laach and the millstone quarries of N. 
Mendig. 

Neuwied Stat., named from the town 
on the opposite side of the Rhine, with 
which it is connected by a ferry. 

rt. ['Neuwied (Inns: Golden Anker, on 
the Rhine; Briider-Gcmeinde [Mora¬ 
vian Hotel]), a neat and uniform town 
of straight streets, crossing each other at 
rt. angles (7000 Inhab.), the capital of the 
principality of Wied, now mediatized, 
and attached to Prussia. It was founded 
in 1653 on the site of a small town 
destroyed in the Thirty Years’ war, by 
Prince Frederick of Wied, who invited 
colonists of all persuasions, from all 
parts, to come and settle, with a pro¬ 
mise of perfect toleration. 

The Palace of the prince is at the 
lower end of the town, on the Rhine. 
Here is a collection of Roman antiquities , 
derived from the buried city of Victoria, 
near the village of Niederbiber, 2 m. N. 
of Neuwied. The objects brought to 


NEUWIED. 2 1o 

light comprise a bronze genius nearly 
2 feet high, helmets, weapons, a 
plough-share, tools of various trades, 
a sacrificial knife, pottery, coins, and 
hand-mills; bones of deer, pigs, dogs, 
and a large quantity of oyster-shells j 
Many tiles have been found stamped 
with the names and numbers of the 
legions quartered here. 

The Colony of Moravian Brothers 
exceeds 400, who occupy a distinct 
quarter of Neuwied: their establish¬ 
ment, church, schools, and workshops 
are worth seeing. Visitors are expected 
to make some purchase at the magazine. 

The park and gardens of the chateau 
of Monrepos , situated between the Wied 
and the Rhine, 6 m. N.N.E. from Neu¬ 
wied, form a pleasant excursion, and 
afford beautiful prospects. 

There is a flying bridge over the 
Rhine at Neuwied.] 

(1.) The train passes between the 
Rhine and the village of Weissenthurm 
(White Tower), so called from the 
square watch-tower built by the electors 
of Treves to mark the frontier of their 
domain. Its modern church is decorated 
with frescoes. Here the French crossed 
the Rhine in spite of the opposi¬ 
tion of the Austrians in 1797. On 
an eminence behind, to the rt. of the 
road, stands an Obelisk, erected to the 
memory of the French general Hoche, 
who achieved that memorable exploit 
by throwing a bridge across to the 
island in the middle of the river. The 
monument bears the simple, inscription, 
“ L’Armee de Sambre et Meuse a son 
General Hoche.” Byron says of it, 
“This is all, and as it should be; Hoche 
was esteemed among the first of France’s 
earlier generals, until Napoleon mono¬ 
polised her triumphs. He was the 
destined commander of the invading 
army of Ireland.” 

(1.) Beyond Weissenthurm the rail¬ 
road quits the side of the Rhine. 

(rt.) Engers, a small village, with 
an ivy-clad stump of a Tower, built 
by Archbp. Cuno of Falkcnstein, 1386, 


ROUTE 37.—THE RHINE (c). 






276 

and a Chateau, built 1758 by a later 
Elector of Treves, facing the river, 
now a Prussian military academy. 
This is supposed to be the scene of 
Caesar’s second passage of the. Rhine, 
described in his Commentaries, by 
means of a bridge which his army 
threw across the river. A short way 
above this the remains of a Roman 
bridgehead are discoverable near the 
river. 

(rt.) Miihlhofen, a village at the 
mouth of the river Sayn, rising above 
which appear the furnaces of the 
Iron-works and of the Ironmaster 
Foundry, Krupp (Sayner Hiitte). 

([nn: Post.) The coal comes from 
the Ruhr and Saar, the iron ore (hema¬ 
tite) from Braunfels near Wetzlar. 
[A good road strikes up the valley, 
and leads, in 3 in. from Engers, 
and about 8 m. from Coblenz, to 
the village and modern Chateau of^ 
Sayn, belonging to the Prince of 
Sayn Wittgenstein. It is handsomely 
furnished, and contains a good collec¬ 
tion of modern paintings—shown in 
the absence of the family (on Thurs¬ 
day). Pleasant walks lead through 
the grounds behind to the picturesque 
ruins of the old Castle of Sayn, destroyed 
by the French in the Thirty Years’ war, 
crowning the point of the hill, visible 
from the Rhine, and commanding a 
fine view. Further up the valley is the 
romantic Park of Rennerberg. Archi¬ 
tects should look at the Old Ch. of 
Sayn, behind the Castle, a narrow 
nave without aisles ending in an E. 
apse fths of a circle, date 1400. At 
the upper extremity of the valley 
is the castle of the Counts of Isen- 
burg, whence they used to sally 
forth and plunder the merchants upon 
the Rhine. The whole valley is beau¬ 
tiful ; the stream of the Sayn gives it 
verdure; its woody sides afford a cool 
shelter even in summer, and are inter¬ 
sected with walks, and provided with 
seats and summer-houses. It is a 
favourite excursion of the people of 
Coblenz. N. of the valley, about If m. 
N. of Sayn, and as far N.E. of Engers, 
on the slope of a hill, stands the 
ruined abbey Romrnersdorf. The ch. "was 


Sect. IV. 

consecrated in 1210 : the fine chapter- 
house and cloister were built'between 
1214-1236. The abbey has become the 
property of the Due d’Aremberg, and is 
well preserved.] 

rt. Bendorf (Inn: Rhein Hof). The 
Protestant Ch. is pure Romanesque, 
with a later Gothic transept, and 
annexed to this a modern Rom. Cath. 
ch. 

rt. Vallendar has a handsome mo¬ 
dern ch. Fine view hence. 

(rt.) The walls and buildings of the 
Castle of Ehrenbreitstein, on the top of 
its massive and commanding rock pe¬ 
destal, are visible long before Coblenz 
appears behind the green slopes of the 
1. bank. 

1. Neuendorf. Here the compara¬ 
tively small timber-rafts from the upper 
Rhine and its tributaries, and from the 
Moselle, are formed into the large rafts 
which descend to Holland. 

(1.) Near Kesselheim are remains of 
the chateau of Schonbomlust, originally 
a palace of the Elector of Treves, and 
only remarkable because it was the 
residence of the Bourbon princes and 
their supporters who were exiled from 
France during the first revolution. It 
became the head-quarters of the army 
of the refugees and their allies, and 
their plans of invading France were 
here concocted. The part of the build¬ 
ing now standing serves as an inn. 
The plain between Andernach and 
Coblenz becomes every 3 years the 
scene of very extensive military re¬ 
views of the Prussian army; 25,000 
men are manoeuvred on these occasions, 
usually in August or September, for 
the space of one month. 

(1.) Near the junction of the Mo¬ 
selle and Rhine, the railway skirts the 
fortified height of Petersberg, crowned 
by the strong Fort Franz. Within its 
walls, on the 1. as you enter, a plain 
marble slab with 4 corner-stones marks 
the Grave of the French General Hochc, 
who died at Wetzlar. Not far off is 
the “ Monument of General Marccau, 
killed at the battle of Altenkirchen, 
in attempting to cover the retreat of 
Jourdan, on the last day of the 4th 
year of the French republic.” (Sept. 21, 
1796.) 


ROUTE 37.—THE RHIKE (c). MUHLHOFEN. 





Ixhen. Prussia. ROUTE 3 1 .—THE RHINE (c). COBLEN2. 


“ By Coblentz, on a rise of gentle ground, 
There is a small and simple pyramid, 
Crowning the summit of the verdant mound ; 
Beneath its base are heroes’ ashes hid, 

Our enemy’s—but let not that forbid 
Honour to Marceau! o’er whose early tomb 
Tears, big tears, gush’d from the rough sol¬ 
dier’s lid. 

Lamenting and yet envying such a doom, 
Falling for France, whose rights he battled to 
resume. 

“ Brief, brave, and glorious was his young 
career,— 

His mourners were two hosts, his friends 
and foes; 

And fitly may the stranger lingering here 
Pray for his gallant spirit’s bright repose ; 
For he was Freedom’s champion, one of 
those, 

The few in number, who had not o’erstept 
The charter to chastise which she bestows 
On such as wield her weapons ; he had kept 
The whiteness of his soul, and thus men o’er 
him wept.” Byron. 

Byron adds : “ The inscriptions on 
his monument are rather too long, and 
not required: his name was enough. 
France adored, and her enemies ad¬ 
mired ; both wept over him. His 
funeral was attended by the generals 
and detachments from both armies.” 
It was in allusion to the last circum¬ 
stance that the words of the Imperial 
captain, in whose arms Bayard breathed 
his last under nearly similar circum¬ 
stances, were inscribed on the monu¬ 
ment: “ Je voudrais qu’il m’eut coute 
le quart de mon sang, et vous tinse 
en sante, mon prisonnier ! quoique je 
sais que l’Empereur mon maitre n’eut 
en ses guerres plus rude ni facheux 
ennemi.”— Memoires de Bayard. On 
another side of the monument were 
inscribed the words, “ Qui que tu sois, 
ami ou ennemi, de ce jeune heros 
respecte les cendres.” 

This injunction has not been exactly 
complied with. The monument ori¬ 
ginally stood at a little distance from 
its present position; but as it interfered 
with the line of fortifications, it was 
removed in 1819, along with the re¬ 
mains of the General, to the spot which 
they now occupy, where the tomb was 
rebuilt at the command of King Wil¬ 
liam III. of Prussia, on its present site, 
| hr.’s walk from the Moselle Bridge. 

1. After passing under the works 
of the Fort Kaiser Franz 4 which the 
French commenced and called Fort 


21'1 

Marceau, the railroad crosses the Mo¬ 
selle, a little above the old stone bridge , 
some distance above its confluence 
with the Bhine, and penetrating the 
walls reaches 

Coblenz Stat., from which little is 
seen of the town. 

The breaking up of the frost is some¬ 
times attended with danger to the town 
of Coblenz. In the spring of 1830 the 
ice on the Moselle came down while the 
Rhine was still frozen over; and being 
forced on by the current, while there 
was no outlet for its discharge, was 
raised into vast heaps near the jimetion 
of the river, so as to overtop the stone 
bridge across the Moselle, and the quays 
along its banks. Indeed, but for these 
quays, then recently built, it is pro¬ 
bable some of the houses in the lower 
town would have been injured, as the 
icebergs were piled up against them to 
a height of 10 ft., and the boats moored 
in front of them were crushed by the 
weight. The water of the Moselle rose 
so high as to break over the tongue of 
land on its 1. bank, threatening de¬ 
struction to the village of Neuendorf, 
whose inhabitants took to flight; and it 
even floated up the Rhine on the top of 
the ice as far as Boppart! The fields 
between the 2 rivers were covered with 
ice, and all communication by the road 
cut off. 

The Palace of the Electors of Treves 
(now the King’s), the Government- 
house, and a long row of stately houses, 
hotels, &c., extending along the 1. 
bank of the Rhine, are conspicuous 
as the steamer reaches her moorings. 
Porter’s tax 2 S. gr. for every box, 1 S. 
gr. for every smaller package, from the 
steamer to the hotels; 3 S. gr. to the 
midst of the town. It is usual to give 
5 or 6 S. gr. 

21 1. Coblenz Stat. — Inns: the 
* Giant (Riese), nearest to the landing- 
place of the steamers, is good and 
moderate, frequented by English ; *11. 
Bellevue, quiet; both excellent esta¬ 
blishments, both facing the Rhine. 
Charges at either table-d’hote, at 1 and 
at 5 in summer, with wine, 24 S. gr.; 
tea 10 S. gr.; br. 12 S. gr.; beds 1G to 
24. Trierischer Hof (Postc), in the 



273 


ftOtfTE 37. —THE RHINE (c). COBLENZ* 


Sect. IV* 



Square, good and quiet; 2nd class, S. 
de Liege, moderate, near the Moselle 
and the Ely. Stat.; Anker, next to the 
Giant, good. Moselle wines may be 
had good here. 

Coblenz is a strongly fortified town, 
the bulwark of Germany and Prussia on 
the side of France, on the 1. hank of the 
Rhine, and rt. of the Moselle (Germ. 
Mosel). The Romans called it Con- 
fluentes, modernised into Coblenz, from 
its situation at the confluence of these 
2 rivers. It is the capital of the 


Rhenish provinces of Prussia, and its 
population, including that of Ehren- 
breitstein and 5000 men in garrison, is 
32,000. 

The Fortifications, which occupied 
nearly 20 years to complete, consist of 
four groups or systems of Works : 1. 
The town itself, surrounded by ramparts 
on the 1. bank of the Rhine, and 2, its 
outworks, extending from 1. bank of the 
Rhine to rt. of the Moselle, including 
Ft. Alexander (the key),Ft. Constantine, 
and five other forts commanding the 




























































Mhen. Prussia, route 37.—the rRine (c). coblen2. 


valley of the Moselle. 3. A system of 
works crowning the hills between 1. 
bank of the Moselle and rt. of the Rhine, 
of which Feste Franz is the centre, sur¬ 
rounded by 6 minor forts. 4. The Aster 
System, on the rt. bank of the Rhine, of 
which Asterstein is the central fortress, 
flanked and fronted by five minor forts. 
A deep ravine and sunk road separate 
these from 6 other forts, forming the N. 
and more important division of the Aster 
System, ranging with the lower works 
of Ehrenbreitstein almost on a level 
with the Rhine. The whole is crowned 
by Upper Ehrenbreitstein, which con¬ 
tains 46,000 stand of arms (all needle- 
guns), and in its vaults abundant stores 
of provisions. In all, the works amount 
to 26 forts or fortresses! These vast 
defences form a fortified camp, capable 
of containing 100,000 men, and are 
unique in their way. 

The presence of the military and 
civil government, and of an extensive 
garrison; the situation of the town in 
the centre of the great highway up and 
down the Rhine, nearly equi-distant 
from Cologne and Mayence, at the 
point of junction of the roads to Frank¬ 
furt and by Treves to Paris; its vici¬ 
nity to the fashionable watering-place 
Ems; and the number of persons daily 
arriving and departing by coaches, car¬ 
riages, rail, and steamboats, render 
Coblenz a lively and bustling place, 
especially in summer. 

A walk round Coblenz , including the 
most interesting objects. — Start from 
the Rhine Bridge to the mouth of the 
Moselle, through the gate to see St. 
Castor’s ch. and Fountain, thence to the 
Moselle Bridge, and through the town 
to the Lohr and Mayence gates, massive 
specimens of modern military archi¬ 
tecture ; cross the drawbridge and 
ascend the Karthause for the view ; 
return by the Schloss-Platz. 

The Ch. of St. Castor , at the very 
confluence of the 2 rivers, distinguished 
by its 4 towers, and boasting of Louis 
the Pious (836) for its original founder, 
in its actual structure dates from 1208, 
and is an early instance of the appear¬ 
ance of the Lombard style in the Rhenish 
provinces. It was the place where the 
grandsons of Charlemagne met (843) to 


£79 

divide his vast empire into Germany, 
France, and Italy (Treaty of Verdun). 
The exterior of the choir dates from 
1201; the nave and transept from 
1208; the vaulting from 1498. In 
1830 the church was restored. On the 
1. of the chancel stands the beautiful 
tomb of Cuno of Falkenstein, Archbp. 
of Treves (d. 1388); it is ornamented 
with a painting of the Crucifixion, 
attributed to the old German master, 
William of Cologne. 2 modern frescoes 
in the choir are by Settegast. The 
Nativity by Gassen deserves notice. 

In 1338 King Edward III. repaired 
to Coblenz to meet the Emp. Lewis of 
Bavaria, who installed him, in front 
of this church, Vicar of the Empire, in 
order that he might secure the succour 
of the Crown-vassals on the 1. bank of 
the Rhine, to aid him in his designs 
against France. 

In the square in front of St. Castor 
stands a Fountain , erected by the French 
in 1812, bearing an inscription to com¬ 
memorate their Invasion of Russia, 
affixed to it by the French Prefet of 
the Departemcnt, at the time of Na¬ 
poleon’s expedition. This inscription 
had not stood many months before the 
Russians, pursuing the army of Na¬ 
poleon, arrived here on their way to 
Paris. Their commander, St. Priest, 
instead of erasing the obnoxious words, 
contented himself with the following 
sarcastic addition, which remains to the 
present time: “Vu et approuve par 
nous, Commandant Russe de la Ville de 
Coblence, Janvier l er , 1814.” 

The Liebfrauenkirche has early pointed 
arches and scalloped windows in the 
style of Cologne. It was originally 
built in 1259; the choir 1404-1431; 
the vaulting about 1500. The spacious 
Triforiumwas evidcnly intended to hold 
part of the congregation (? the women); 
it is paved by old tiles, and reached by 
roomy staircases. 

The Moselle Bridge (b. 1344) com¬ 
mands a pleasing view up and down 
the river, and along the picturesque 
old buildings which line the quay. 
Below it, on the rt., rise the ancient 
Town Hall , and the original Castle of 
the Electors of Treves, built 1280, now 
a manufactory of Japan ware. One of 




Sect. IV, 


Route 37.—the Rhine (c). corlen2. 


m 

the first buildings on the 1. hand, after 
passing through the archway from the 
bridge, in the “ Stammhaus” (family 
house) of Prince Metternich, the late 
Austrian Prime Minister, who was born 
in it. There are many other seats of 
the ancient nobility of the empire, as 
that of the Princes yon der Leyen, 
Counts Bassenheim, Elz, &c. The Hos¬ 
pital is under the exemplary manage¬ 
ment of the “ Soeurs de la Cliarite.” 

The principal building- in the New 
Town is the Palace , fitted up for the sum¬ 
mer residence of the King of Prussia. 
Its long fa 9 ade extends along the Ehine, 
above the Bridge of Boats; its prin¬ 
cipal front is turned towards the Great 
Square, near which the parade is held 
about 12 on Wednesdays, when the 
band plays. It was built by the last 
Elector of Treves, Clement Wenceslaus, 
Prince of Poland, Duke of Saxony, 
and uncle of Louis XVI., 1778-1788. 
The interior is very splendid and taste¬ 
ful, and contains interesting works of 
art; a bust of the Queen of Prussia, 
modelled by the Princess Boyal of 
England, and Gobelin tapestries. It 
is shown when the royal family are 
absent: a small gift to the housekeeper 
is proper. 

The Service of the Church of England is 
performed in the beautiful entrance Hall 
of-the Palace by an English clergyman 
twice every Sunday, by permission of 
the Queen of Prussia. 

The Palace of Justice contains the 
Law Courts, which are open to the 
public. Justice is administered by 
judges in gowns, but without wigs, 
and by trial by jury. The assizes are 
held every 3 months. 

The Casino , or town club, is of chaste 
architecture; it has an elegant ball¬ 
room, good reading-rooms, and gardens. 

Close at hand is an ancient Convent 
of Jesuits , now the grammar-sciool. 
The Cellars beneath it may deserve a 
visit as the largest in the district 
and characteristic of the wine-land. 
A very agreeable sparkling wine is 
made from the grapes of the Ehine 
and Moselle; and the vines which 
grow under the very guns of Ehren- 


breitstein furnish, under skilful ma¬ 
nagement, a highly flavoured wine, 
which is no bad substitute for Cham¬ 
pagne. 

A little above the Boat-bridge, the 
Ehine is crossed by a very handsome 
Iron Bridge, opened 1866, for the rly. 
Foot passengers can cross paying 2 
pfenings. Just above this bridge are 
the Anlagen formed out of land re¬ 
covered from the Ehine, a pleasant 
resort, with walks made by the Queen 
of Prussia. Military bands play here 
frequently. Tea and coffee at the 
chalet. 

Coblenz is a free port, and carries on 
an active commerce up and down the 
3 rivers, Ehine, Moselle, and Lahn, 
supplying the country around with 
colonial produce. From its vicinity 
to the wine districts it forms the na¬ 
tural staple place of the Ehine and 
Moselle wines, going down the river 
to Great Britain, Holland, and other 
parts of the world. About a million 
jars of Seltzers and other mineral 
waters from the duchy of Nassau are 
shipped annually from hence. Corn 
and the excellent iron of the neigh¬ 
bourhood are exported up the Moselle 
into France. The volcanic produc¬ 
tions of this country form very peculiar 
articles of trade; such are the lava 
itself, in the shape of millstones, and 
the ashes, or pumice-stone, ground to 
form Dutch tiras: these, as well as 
potter’s clay from the Moselle, bark 
from the forests of the Eifel and Huns- 
driick, and stoneware from the Sauer- 
land, a mountainous and poor district 
of Westphalia, N. of the Duchy of 
Nassau, are much in request in Holland. 

No town on the Ehine surpasses 
Coblenz in the beauty of its situation: 
from whatever side you approach, by 
land or water, it presents a beautiful 
picture. The views from the centre 
of the Bridge from the heights of 
Ehrenbreitstein, of Pfaffendorf, or of the 
Chartreuse, are all fine. 

The most interesting object in the 
vicinity, on accoimt of its towering and 
majestic appearance, for the glorious 
View of the junction of the Ehine and 
Moselle, and of the course of the Ehine 
from Stolzenfels down to Andemach, 




liken. Prussia. ROUTE 37. the Rhine (c). ehrenbreitstein. 281 


which it commands, and for the vast 
extent of its fortifications, is 

(rt.) Ehrenbreitstein (honour’s 
broad stone), the Gibraltar of the Rhine, 
connected with Coblenz by a bridge of 
boats. Admission tickets are obtained 
at the office of the Commandant (5 S. 
gr.), at the foot of the rock. Time 
required, 2 hrs. from Coblenz. 

This fortress was, during the middle 
ages, the refuge and stronghold of the 
Electors of Treves, who, in later times, 
occupied the Palace at the foot of the 
rock, before the erection of their more 
princely residence on the opposite side of 
the Rhine. It was in vain besieged by 
the French in 1688, under Marshal Bouf- 
flers, notwithstanding the celebrated 
Vauban directed the works against it, 
and although Louis XIY. repaired 
hither in order to be the eye-witness of 
its surrender. But it fell into their 
hands in 1799, after a siege, in which 
the garrison was reduced to such ex¬ 
tremities from want of food, that a cat 
sold for 1£ florin, and horse-flesh rose 
to 30 kreutzers per pound. It was 
blown up by the French when they 
evacuated it after the peace of Lune- 
ville. 

* ‘ Here Ehrenbreitstein, with her shatter’d 
wall 

Black w ith the miner’s blast upon her height, 

Yet shows of what she was, when shell and 
ball 

Rebounding idly on her strength did light : 

A tower of victory ! from whence the flight 

Of baffled foes was watch’d along the plain ; 

But Peace destroy’d what War could never 
blight, 

And laid those proud roofs bare to Summer’s 
rain, 

• On which the iron shower for years had pour’d 
in vain.”— Byron. 

It has long ceased to be a ruin. Since 
1814 the Prussians have spared no pains 
or cost in restoring it, and adding new 
works. Prussia devoted to the re-con¬ 
struction of this fortress 15 millions of 
frs., her share of the contribution which 
France was compelled to pay the Allies 
after the war: but 1,200,000/. have been 
expended on it by the Prussian govern¬ 
ment. The works on both sides of the 
Rhine at Coblenz, although they may be 
converted into a fortified camp holding 
100,000 men, are so constructed as to 
be defensible by a garrison of 5000. 


The magazines are capable of con¬ 
taining provisions for 8000 men for 10 
years. 

Ehrenbreitstein is defended by about 
400 pieces of cannon. The escarped 
rocks, or steep slopes, on 3 sides, would 
bid defiance to almost any assault: its 
weak point is on the NAY. Here, 
however, art has done its utmost to 
repair a natural defect, and 3 lines of 
defences present themselves, one within 
another, which would require to be 
taken in succession before the enemy 
could enter in this direction. The 
great platform on the top of the rock, 
serving as a parade, covers vast arched 
cisterns, capable of holding a supply of 
water for 3 years, furnished by springs 
without the walls. There is, besides, 
a well, simk 400 ft. deep in the rock, 
communicating with the Rhine: the 
Rhine water, however, is very un¬ 
wholesome from the quantity of vege¬ 
table matter decomposed in it. 

Those who reach Coblenz too late to 
see Ehrenbreitstein may content them¬ 
selves with the view from the Pfaffen- 
dorfer Hohe (a hill on the same side of 
the Rhine), which is nearly as fine. 

The rt. bank rly. is being carried 
through the rock, at the base of Ehren¬ 
breitstein, and over part of the outworks. 

(1.) Hill of the Chartreuse. — The 
view from Ehrenbreitstein is, perhaps, 
even surpassed by that from the heights 
of the Karthauserberg, on the 1. bank 
of the Rhine, about ^ m. above Coblenz. 
It is named from an old convent, re¬ 
moved to make way for Fort Constan¬ 
tine, standing on the lower slope of the 
hill, while Fort Alexander crowns its 
top. The stranger may walk round 
the forts. Ehrenbreitstein’s rock and 
citadel form the grandest feature of 
the view. By approaching the verge 
of the hill, on one side the Rhine is 
seen, with the fortified heights of Pfaf- 
fendorf beyond it, and on the other 
side the Moselle flows at the gazer’s 
feet. A platform halfway up, shaded 
with trees and furnished with seats, 
called “ Die Schone Aussicht,” may 
satisfy those not strong a-foot. 

There are so many interesting spots 
near Coblenz, to which Excursions may 
be made, that it deserves to be chosen 



282 


R. 37.—THE RHINE (c). 

as a lialting-place for some clays, (a.) 
To the Castle of Stolzenfels , 3 m. up, 
on the 1. bank of the Rhine, where is 
Capellen Stat., a station on the railroad 
to Mayence, Rte. 38; vehicles (ein- 
spanner, with one horse) may be found 
near the Mainzer Thor to take you 
there and back for one thaler—with 
2 horses 1 th. 10 S. gr. It is cheaper 
and pleasanter to take steamer to 
Capellen. (b.) to the top of the Kiih- 
kopf, the wooded hill, 1160 ft. high, 
rising S. of the Chartreuse, about 11 m. 
from Coblenz: (c.) to Lahnstein Stat., 
on the rt. bank of the Rhine, Rte. 38 : 
(d.) to Sayn , and the Abbey of Rom- 
mersdorf. Tours of a day may be 
made to the Abbey and Lake of Laach 
(Rte. 40); to the Castle of Elz (Rte. 
41) ; to Neuwied, below Engers; to the 
Castle of Marksburg , Rte. 38—taking 
the train, or a carriage to Niederspay, 
opposite Braubach (2 dollars), stopping 
to see Stolzenfels and Konigsstuhl. 
Cross the ferry at Niederspay, ascend 
to the Marksburg. 

The numerous forests around abound 
in game—roes, stags, wild boar, and 
even wolves. The preserves of the 
Duke of Nassau and Prince of Wied are 
richly stocked, but they are not known 
to be liberal in admitting foreigners to 
their shooting parties. 

The Rhine , above Coblenz. —Some of 
the finest scenery of the Rhine lies 
between Coblenz and Bingen. Its 
beauties are better seen from the 
steamer than from the railroads, which 
run up both banks. The voyage up to 
Bingen takes 4 hrs., 2 hrs. down. 

Excursion from Coblenz to Ems , and 
the Castle of Nassau, 6 m. beyond it 
(see Rte. 95), by railway or carriage, 
or by steamer to Ober-Lahnstein Stat. 
Ascend the hill above Ems (ladies may 
mount a donkey): enjoy the view. 

Those who have a week to spare may 
make from Coblenz the tour of the beau¬ 
tiful Moselle to Treves (Rte. 41), return¬ 
ing by the river in the steamer (Rte. 42). 
N.B.—The Moselle steamer is liable to 
run aground in summer. They who 
cannot afford time to go all the way to 


COBLENZ. excursions. Sect. IV. 

Treves will find it worth their while to 
devote l£ or 2 days to an excursion to 
the castle of Elz, and the village of Alf, 
situated on the Moselle, at a spot where 
its scenery is most beautiful, and to the 
Baths of Bertrich, returning by the 
Moselle ; and in this short space the 
traveller may enjoy some of the most 
beautiful scenery that river presents. 
(Rte. 42.) 

The Moselle Excursion of 1 day. By 
carriage or diligence in 3 hrs. to 
Miinster-Mayfeld ; thence 3 m. to 
Schloss Elz , one of the most picturesque 
and best preserved castles in Germany. 
There is a good carriage-road from 
Carden by Muden, to within a mile of 
Elz. 

The young peasant girls in the coun¬ 
try around Coblenz wear before mar¬ 
riage a very elegant cap richly em¬ 
broidered, with a silver-gilt knife or 
stiletto stuck through their hair. 

The eminent oculist Meurer resides 
here and attracts patients from all parts 
of the world. 

Good physicians are Dr. Soest, Dr. 
Baermann, and Dr. Schlegel, who un¬ 
derstand English. (For Fees see §41.) 

English boys, gentlemen’s sons, are 
boarded and educated here with great 
care and propriety by Mr. Archer 
Burton, Magd. Coll., Cambridge. 

Swimming Baths on the Rhine below 
the Boat Bridge; cold and warm baths 
attached to the Boat Bridge. A bath 
costs 5 S. gr. 

Steamers on the Rhine several times 
a-day up to Mayence and down to 
Cologne; up the Moselle 4 times a week 
(in summer) to Treves, in li day, re¬ 
turning in 10 or 12 hrs. (Rte. 42.) 

Schnellposts (§ 49) to Treves twice 
a day, in 15 hrs. 

Railways to Cologne; to Bingen and 
Mayence ;—to Ems, Lahnstein, Rudes- 
heim, and Wiesbaden, along the rt. 
bank of the Rhine. (Rte. 38.) 

Omnibus to Ems several times a-day. 
Droskies (cabs) are much cheaper than 
carriages hired at the hotels. 



Wien. Prussia. 


283 


ROUTE 38. —RHINE (d). STOLZENFELS. 


ROUTE 38. 

THE RHINE (d). COBLENZ TO MAYENCE. 

RAILWAY OR STEAMER. 

Railways along both banks of the 
Rhine, 56 Eng. m. Steamers (5 or 6 
daily): up in 8 hrs., down in 5 hrs. 

1. The Rhenish Railway along the 1. 
bank of the Rhine. 5 trains daily in 
1 1 hr. to Bingerbruck ; to Mayence in 
3 hrs.; express in 2£ hrs. 

rt. The Nassau State Railway , from 
Coblenz and Lahnstein to Wiesbaden, 
along the rt. bank of the Rhine : 6 
trains daily in 2 J to 3 hrs. 

Immediately above Coblenz the 
mountains close in upon the Rhine, 
which flows through a contracted gorge 
extending as far as Bingen. The dark 
shadows of the mountains, the nume¬ 
rous feudal castles in ruins, and walled 
and turreted towns, are the prominent 
features of its unrivalled scenery, the 
effect of which is heightened by his¬ 
torical associations and the charms of 
romance and chivalry. 

(1.) On quitting Coblenz the Left 
Bank Railway passes (rt.) under Fort 
Constantine. On the rt. bank rises 
another fort, crowning the heights of 
Pfaffendorf, above a village of that 
name. They have been fortified with 
as much care and expense as the citadel 
itself. The rly. rejoins the Rhine 
opposite the island Oberwerth, upon 
which stands the country-house of 
Count Pfaffcnhofen, formerly a nun¬ 
nery. 


The Nassau or Right Bank Railway, 
passing inside the Lbhr and Mayence 
gates, crosses the Rhine by an iron 
bridge just above the Palace, to . 

rt. Ilorcheim Stat., the last Prussian 
village. Water cure establishment, 
Laubach, very popular. 

(1.) Stolzenfels Stat., at Capellen, a 
little village at the foot of the Stolzenfels , 
a castle, finely placed on a jutting rock 
overlooking the Rhine, and nearly 
opposite the confluence of the Lahn, 3 
m. above Coblenz. Its picturesque 
outline and commanding position seem 
to justify its name of the Proud 
Rock , and render it one of the 
most imposing feudal castles on the 
Rhine. It is one of the numerous for¬ 
tresses built by the Archbishops of 
Treves, and was a favourite residence 
of several of those princely Prelates. 
The Princess Isabella, sister of Henry 
III. of England, and bride of the Emp. 
Frederick II., was lodged here with 
a splendid retinue in 1235. It 'was 
destroyed by the French in 1688, and 
had been abandoned to decay, until it 
was presented by the town, of Cob¬ 
lenz to the King of Prussia, while 
Crown Prince, by whom it was re¬ 
stored at a cost of more than 50,000L 
A carriage road has been formed, partly 
by bridging a ravine, up to the castle, 
300 ft. above the Rhine, and is carried 
thence in zigzags to the top of the 
neighbouring hill. Pretty plantations 
and walks have been laid out around it. 
The view over the Rhine from castle 
and grounds is unsurpassed. The 
chapel is painted by Professor Degcr, 
one of the best artists in Germany; the 
Rittersaal by Stilke, whose frescoes re¬ 
presenting the knightly virtues and ac¬ 
complishments by scenes from history. 
1. Courage : the death of the blind 
King John of Bohemia at the battle 
of Crecy, after having fastened his 
horse to those of two knights. 2. 
Fidelity: Herman von Siebeneichen 
saves the Emp. Fred. Barbarossa, by 
exposing himself to the Guelph assas¬ 
sins, having compelled the Emperor to 
fly. 3. Love: the Empr. Fred. II. 
receives his bride Isabella Plantagenet, 
sister of Henry III. 4. Music : Philip 





ROUTE 38. —THE RHINE (d). RHENSE. BRAUBACH. Sect. IV. 


284 

of Swabia and bis wife Irene sailing 
down the Rhine, surrounded by the 
most famous minstrels of their day. 
5. Justice: Rudolph of Habsburg re¬ 
establishes general peace. 6. Persever¬ 
ance : Godfrey of Bouillon hangs up his 
arms in the Church of the Holy Sepul¬ 
chre. On the window side are St. 
Gereon, St. George, St. Maurice, and St. 
Reinhold. In another room is an ar¬ 
moury, where are preserved the swords 
of Tilly, Bliicher, Murat, J. Sobieski, 
Duke of Alva, &c., the pistols of Schelt. 
The King of Prussia received Queen 
Victoria here in 1845, and the apart¬ 
ments occupied by H.M. are osten¬ 
tatiously shown. The castle is often 
resorted to by the Coblenzers on account 
of its fine view. Near the Inns at the 
foot of the rock (Stolzenfels, Bellevue) 
donkeys swarm to convey the strangers 
up it. 

Both banks of the Lahn and the 
rt. bank of the Rhine, nearly all 
the way hence to Mayence, belonged 
to Nassau down to 1866. 

(rt.) Below the mouth of the Lahn 
stands the Church of St. John , built 
about 1100, but reduced to a ruin 
through a lawsuit about the liability 
of the titheowner to repair it, which 
lasted 40 years. The choir is square 
outside, but curved within: the sa¬ 
cristy has elliptical vaulting : a tower is 
raised very boldly upon columns: the 
great tower is the oldest. Beyond it 
is the village of Nieder-Lahnstein, on 
the rt. bank of the Lahn. Here the 
Russians, under St. Priest, crossed the 
Rhine in 1814. Douquet’s Inn, at 
Lahnstein, is a good dining place, and 
its small court-yard commands fine 
views. A good carriage-road leads up 
the rt. bank of the lake to Ems (Rte. 
95), and a Railway along the 1. bank. 

(rt.) Above the mouth of the Lahn, 
on the top of a rock, are the ruins of 
the Castle of Lahneck , which gave rise 
to Gothe’s verses ‘ Gcister Grass.’ It 
has been refitted. 

rt. OberlahnsteinStat. (H. Weller; H. 
Lahneck), an old unaltered walled town, 
whose most conspicuous edifice is the red 
Castle of the Electors of Mayencc, on 
the margin of the Rhine. Just without 
its walls a little white chapel is visible 


among the trees; it is memorable as the 
spot where the Electors met to pronounce 
the deposition of the weak and indolent 
Emperor Wenceslaus, and to elect 
Rupert emperor in his stead (1400). 

1. The railroad passes (1.) the Kdnigs- 
stuhl (King’s Seat), where the Electors 
used to meet to deliberate on affair's of 
the Empire. It is an open vaulted hall 
with 7 arches and 9 pillars, 1 being in 
the middle, and with 7 stone seats round 
the side for the 7 Electors. Here 
many treaties of peace were concluded, 
emperors dethroned and elected, and 
here the Emperor Maximilian appeared 
in person to take the oaths. It was 
allowed to go to ruin under the French 
government, and was pulled down 1807, 
but has been rebuilt in its original 
shape, and partly out of the old ma¬ 
terials (1843). This situation was 
selected from its vicinity to the ter¬ 
ritories of the 4 Rhenish Electors. 
The town of Rhense belonged to the 
Elector of Cologne, Lahnstein to Mainz, 
Capellen and Stolzenfels to Treves, 
and Braubach to the Palatinate. Thus 
each could repair to this spot, or retire 
from it into his own dominions, in a 
few minutes’ time. The Rly. passes 
through the midst of 

(1.) * Rhense (Inn, Zum Konigs- 
stuhl), one of the least altered and 
most picturesque towns on the Rhine; 
its timber houses, few of which are 
newer than the 16th cent., and some 
even of the 14th cent., retain entirely 
the mediaeval German aspect. 

(rt.) Braubach Stat., a small town, 
with a Chateau, at the water-side (now 
turned into an Inn, zur Phillipsburg), 
stands at the foot of a high and almost 
conical rock, surmounted by the impos¬ 
ing Castle of Marksburg , an unaltered 
specimen of a stronghold of the middle 
ages, and on this account deserving of a 
visit. It is sometimes used as a prison, 
and is garrisoned by a corps of invalids. 
It is indeed the beau-ideal of the old 
Ritterschloss, with mysterious narrow 
passages, winding stairs, vaults hewn in 
the living rock, which served in former 
days as dungeons; among them the 




Wien. Prussia. 


285 


ROUTE 38. —THE RHINE (d). BOPPART. 


horrible pit called Hundloch (Doghole), 
into which prisoners were let down, as 
a bucket into a well, by a windlass ; and 
above all, a chamber of torture (Folter- 
kammer), whence the rack has been 
only lately removed. Here is shown 
the cell in which the Emp. Henry IY. 
was confined. A secret passage is said 
to pass down through the rock to a 
tower on the borders of the river. The 
view from the top of the Donjon keep 
(called Wimpel) will please the lover 
of the picturesque. Braubaeh is about 
7 m. from Ems. A tolerable road 
connects the two places (Rte. 95). Just 
out of the town, at the roadside, is a 
delicious spring of mineral water, re¬ 
sembling that of Selters. 

(1.) Three small villages close toge¬ 
ther, called Mittelspay, Niederspay, and 
Oberspay. The Rhine here makes a 
very great bend, and does not recover 
its former direction till Boppart is 
passed. 

(rt.) Osterspay Stat. 2 m. beyond 
Braubaeh, nearly opposite Oberspay, 
is a mineral spring called Dinkholder 
Brunnen. 

(rt.) Above the little village of Os¬ 
terspay rises the Castle of Liebeneck , 
with white walls. 

(1.) Boppart Stat., behind the town. 
{Inns: Post; RheinischerHof; Spiegel), 
a very ancient walled town, with 3500 
Inhab. and dark narrow streets, no better 
than lanes. It was the Roman Baudo- 
briga, and, like many other places upon 
the Rhine, it owed its origin to a castle 
built by Drusus, and the walls of this 
Castrum, an oblong square of Roman 
masonry, still exist in the heart of the 
town: the outer walls date from the 
middle ages. Boppart was made an 
Imperial city, and many Diets of the 
Empire were held in it. The Haupt- 
kirche , built about 1200, and distin¬ 
guished by its twin pointed spires, is 
an interesting specimen of the Roman¬ 
esque style, with inside galleries over 
the aisles \mdnnerchbre\ , small round- 
headed arches, supported on twin co¬ 
lumns, and enclosed in larger ones : 
wall-plates with arches, some round, 


some pointed. A door at the E. end, 
surmounted by 3 concentric arches of 
peculiar arrangement, is worth the 
architect’s notice. The Carmeliterkirche 
contains a monument of the family von 
Elz,—rich specimens of sculpture of the 
16th cent., but mutilated. Within the 
pictiu’esque streets the antiquary and 
artist will find much to interest them. 
The Tempelhof preserves the recollection 
of the Knights Templars of Boppart, 
who first mounted the breach at the 
storming of Ptolemais in the 3rd Cru¬ 
sade. 

The large Convent of Marienburg , 
built 1738, behind Boppart, once a 
cotton-mill, afterwards a girls’ school, 
is now converted into a medical board¬ 
ing-house for the Water-cure. The 
Miihlbad near the river is also a Water- 
cure. 

£Excursions .— (a) The Miihlthal, run¬ 
ning up from the Rhine at Boppart, is 
one of the prettiest of its lateral valleys. 

( b ) From the Fleckerts-hohe , 1663 ft. 
above the sea, 6 m. distant (11 m. on 1. 
of the road over the Hundsriicken), a 
fine panoramic view, extending to the 
7 Mountanis, Eifel, &c., but command¬ 
ing only a glimpse of the Rhine itself. 

(c) From another eminence nearer Bop¬ 
part 4 different glimpses are caught of 
the winding of the Rhine, hence called 
The Four Lakes, (d ) To Schloss Ehren- 
burg and the Moselle at Punderich, a 
walk of 9 m., requiring a guide, by the 
village of Buchholz.] 

Before reaching Salzig (1.), famed 
for its cherry orchards, the mountains 
recede somewhat from the banks of the 
river, and give place to corn-fields and 
meadows. 

(rt.) Kamp Stat. A little higher up 
than this village, immediately above the 
ancient Convent of Bomhofcn (where 
is a 2-aisled ch. exhibiting some bold 
construction), and opposite Salzig, rise 
the mouldering towers of the twin 
castles of Sternberg and Liebenstein , 
crowning the double summit of a lofty 
rock, covered with vines. They go by 
the name of the Brothers, and are inte¬ 
resting from their picturesqueness and 
the tale of their owners, two brothers, 







286 R. 38.-— THE RHINE (d). ST. GOAR. GOARSHAUSEN. Sect. IV. 


who, having fallen in love with the same 
fair maid, became foes, settled their 
rivalry by the sword, and fell by each 
other’s hands. The castles belonged to 
the Electors of Treves. 

(rt.) Ehrenthal , a hamlet occupied 
by miners, where are silver and lead 
works. A little above this is Wel- 
mich, a small village at the foot of a 
mountain, surmounted by the ruined 
castle of Thurnberg or Kunoberg, built 
by Kuno v. Falkenstein, the Arclibp. 
of Treves (1363), called “the Mouse,” 
in contrast to “ the Cat” another castle 
above St. Goarshausen. The Mouse, 
however was generally the stronger of 
the two, so that the Cat trembled be¬ 
fore it. It is one of the most perfect 
castles on the Rhine; the wood-work 
alone is wanting; the walls are entire. 
Fine view. 

(1.) Just before reaching the town of 
St. Goar the rly. skirts the base of the 
Fortress of Rheinfels, the most extensive 
ruin on the Rhine, 368 ft. above it. The 
original castle was built by a Count 
Diether of Katzenelnbogen (1245), as 
a stronghold where he could reside, and 
also exact toll, or, as we should say at 
present, levy transit duties, upon all 
merchandize passing up or down the 
Rhine. An attempt, however, on his 
part to increase these duties roused the 
indignation of his neighbours, and his 
castle was besieged in vain for 15 
months by the burghers of the adjacent 
towns. This unsuccessful resistance gave 
rise in the latter part of the 13th cent, 
to the extensive confederacy of the Ger¬ 
man and Rhenish cities, to the number 
of 60, whose more numerous and for¬ 
midable armies reduced and dismantled 
not only the castle of Rheinfels, but also 
most of the other strongholds, or robber- 
nests, upon the Rhine. The castle after¬ 
wards came into the possession of the 
Landgrave of Hesse, who converted it 
into a modern fortress, with bastions and 
casemates. It was besieged in 1692 by 
an army of 24,000 French, under Mar¬ 
shal Tallard, who had promised the 
fortress as a new year’s gift to his master, 
Louis XIV.; but, through the brave 
defence of the Hessian general Gortz, 
was compelled to break his word and 
draw off his forces. His example was 


not followed in 1794, when, though its 
works had been greatly strengthened, it 
was basely abandoned by the Hessian 
garrison, without firing a shot, on the 
first appearance of the revolutionary 
French army, by whom it was blown 
up, and rendered useless. There is no 
interest in the ruins, and the view is 
limited. Under Rheinfels lies the town 
of 

(1.) St. Goar Stat. — Inn, Zur Lilie 
(the Lily), good. St. Goar lies in the 
midst of the finest scenes of the Rhine; 
it is, therefore, well placed for a day’s 
halt. The views in its vicinity are among 
the most picturesque in the whole course 
of the river, and the rocks which hem it 
in are peculiarly wild and precipitous. 
The castle of Rheinfels, magnificent in 
appearance, and interesting from its 
history, hardly rewards the trouble of 
the ascent by the view which it com¬ 
mands. 

The Protestant Ch., near the centre 
of the town, of pleasing architecture, 
built 1468, contains monuments of 
Hessian Princes; it stands over the 
crypt of the old Ch. of St. Goar. In tho 
Catholic Ch. of St. Goar is the rude image 
of that holy hermit, who in the 7th cent, 
settled here to preach Christianity to 
the rude inhabitants, and who after¬ 
wards gave his name to the town. It 
is recorded that once, to prove his sanc¬ 
tity, he hung up his cloak on a sunbeam, 
to dry. His shrine, after his death, in 
647, became a place of pilgrimage, and 
is still famed for working miracles, and 
his help is supposed to have rescued 
many a poor boatman who prayed to 
him from the perils of the Gewirr (a 
whirlpool in this part of the river), 
and the enchantments of the Nymph of 
the Lurlei. 

(rt.) The Nassau hank of the Rhine 
hereabouts also affords pleasant excur¬ 
sions and points of view. Boats are 
always ready at St. Goar to transport 
visitors across the river to 

rt. Goarshausen Stat. (Inn, Adler— 
Aigle; the steamers will set you down 
here). A neat little town at the water¬ 
side, near thfc opening of the so-called 
Swiss Valley, and surmounted by the 
very picturesque 

rt. Castle of the Cat (a contraction of 



Wien. Prussia, it. 38. —the rhine (d). lurlei. oberwesel. 287 


Katzenelnbogen, Cat’s Elbow, tbe name 
of its original possessors), from whom 
it passed to tbe princely house of Hesse, 
but the Elector abandoned the district 
in 1806 to the French, and it is now 
private property. The vibw from it 
is not inferior to that from the 1. bank. 
Those who feel an ardour to climb still 
higher may reach the brow of the 
Lurlei, and gaze upon the Rhine from 
the brink of this lofty precipice. 

[At Goarshausen mules may be hired 
to explore the pretty Schweitzer Thai 
(Swiss Valley), traversed by a limpid 
stream descending in numberless small 
cascades between precipitous walls of 
rock, and turning many water-mills. 
Ascending it for 3 m. you reach the 
ruined Castle of Reichenberg, one of 
the most interesting in the vicinity 
of the Rhine, built 1284, ruined in 
1302, but shortly after restored by 
Baldwin of Treves in an Asiatic style, 
traces of which may be observed in the 
gateway. It was destroyed by Tilly in 
the Thirty Years’ war. Return by the 
village of Patersberg, whence by far 
the finest view of the Rheinfels is to be 
obtained. It requires about J hr. to 
ascend to the summit of the Lurlei from 
St. Goaishausen.] 

(rt.) A short way above St. Goar, 
but on the rt. bank, rises abruptly from 
the water’s edge the bare, black, and 
grand perpendicular precipice called 
the Lurlei (Germ. Loreley). The re¬ 
markable Echo of the Lurlei is 
said to repeat sounds 15 times. 
It readily repeats the rly. whistle. 
The German students amuse them¬ 
selves by asking the echo, “ Who 
is the Burgomaster of Oberwesel ? ” 
Answer — “ Esel ” (the German for 
Ass) : a joke of which the burgomaster 
highly disapproves. The rock has been 
pierced by a Tunnel for the Rudesheim 
Rly. to pass. There is a fishery of 
salmon in this part of the river. 

At the bend of the Rhine between 
St. Goar and the Lurlei rock a whirl¬ 
pool (Wirbel) called the Gewirr formerly 
existed, and above it a rapid called the 
Bank , formed by the stream dashing over 
a number of sunken rocks, now for the 
most part blown up. The passage of the 
large rafts which navigate the Rhine 


over this spot was thus rendered diffi¬ 
cult and dangerous; the crews wero 
plunged up to their necks in water, 
and men have been washed overboard. 
The perils of this spot, taken in con¬ 
nection with the mysterious echo, no 
doubt gave birth to the superstition that 
the Lurlei was haunted by a beauteous 
but wicked nymph or Syren, who dis¬ 
tracted and beguiled the passing boat¬ 
man with her magical voice only to 
overwhelm and drown him in the w*aves 
of the whirlpool. Above this, in the mid¬ 
dle of the river, visible, but so reduced 
by modem gunpowder, as to be barely 
seen even when the water is low, 
are the rocks called the 7 Sisters (see 
below). 

1. The Rly. train immediately above 
St. Goar enters a tunnel 1200 yards 
long, emerging from which a view is 
obtained of the Lurlei precipice, which 
is also traversed by a tunnel for the rt. 
bank railway. Two smaller tunnels 
are passed before reaching 

1. Oberwesel. — Inns: Rheinischer 
Hof;—Goldener Pfropfenzich er( Golden 
Corkscrew—the sign painted by one 
of the Diisseldorf artists, Schrodter). 
Oberwesel (the Yesalia of the Romans), 
a small town of 2300 Inhab., one of the 
most charming spots on the Rhine, is 
highly picturesque from its lofty round 
tower ( Ochsenthurm ) at the water-side, 
its many-turreted walls, and Gothic 
buildings. One of the towers is the 
summer dwelling of the artist Carl 
Haag. The Ch. of our Lady (Liebfrauen- 
kirche), outside the town at its upper 
end, and near the station, a simple but 
elegantly proportioned Gothic ch.; its 
roof is 80 ft. high, and rests on plain 
square piers (date 1338). It was con¬ 
secrated in 1331. Its porches are 
richly sculptured, and the vaulting of 
the cloisters is singular. It contains 2 
objects of mediaeval art well deserving 
of study. The rood-loft (Lcttner) is 
a rich specimen of Gothic, resting on 
marble shafts, and having its arches on 
the side of the choir filled with elabo¬ 
rate tracery. The altarpiece, of carved 
wood, richly gilt and coloured, opening 
as a triptych, consists of a series of 
niches, filled with the figures of prophets, 

I patriarchs, and saints; it is of the same 




288 ROUTE 38. —RHINE (d). 

age as the church, and is the perfection 
of elegance and delicacy. In a side 
chapel are many monuments of the 
Schomherg family, hearing rudely- 
carved effigies of knights in armour, 
ladies in stomachers and ruffs, and 
babies in swaddling clothes, like mum¬ 
mies or the larvae of insects. 

The older Ch. of St. Martin , with a 
large square tower and octagonal lan¬ 
tern, is also interesting from its ar¬ 
chitecture. In it is a Deposition from 
the Cross by Diepenbech. 

In some period of the dark ages a 
hoy named Werner is said to have been 
most impiously crucified and put to 
death by the Jews in this place. A 
similar story is told in many other 
parts of the world; even in England, 
at Gloucester and Lincoln (vide Chau¬ 
cer). It is probable that the whole 
was a fabrication, to serve as a pretext 
for persecuting the Jews and extorting 
money from them. A little Chapel , 
erected to the memory of this Werner, 
stands upon the walls of the town, close 
to the Rhine. 

(1.) Schonberg. This ruined castle 
on the rock was the cradle of an illus¬ 
trious family of the same name. The 
English Schombergs are a branch of it, 
and the hero of the Boyne, Marshal 
Schomherg, sprang from the same 
stock. It receives its name (Beautiful 
Hill), as the story goes, from 7 beau¬ 
teous daughters of the house, who by 
their charms turned the heads of half 
the young knights far and near; hut 
were, at the same time, so hard-hearted 
that they would listen to the suits of 
none of them, and were therefore 
changed into 7 rocks, which project 
out of the bed of the Rhino below Oher- 
wesel, when the water is very low. 

(rt.) Gutenfels, a ruined castle above 
the town of Caub, traditionally (?) said 
to he named after a fair lady called 
Guda, who was beloved of Richard of 
Cornwall, Empr. of Germany, and bro¬ 
ther of our Henry III. In the Thirty 
Years’ war Gustavus Adolphus directed 
an attack upon the Spaniards, posted 
on the opposite bank, from its battle¬ 
ments, hut, after 6 days of unceasing 
hostilities, was unable to effect a pas¬ 
sage in the face of the wary General 


GUTENFELS. PFALZ. Sect. IV. 

Spinola. The castle remained in habit¬ 
able condition down to 1807, when, 
owing to the expense of keeping it up, 
the roofs and wood-work were sold by 
auction, and the building converted 
into a ruin. 

(rt.) Caub Stat. ( Inns: Nassauer Hof; 
Griinewald) has slate-quarries under¬ 
ground, and is principally remarkable 
as the spot where Blii cher’s army crossed 
the Rhine on Hew Year’s Night, 1814, 
by means of a pontoon-bridge. It was 
from the heights above that the view 
of the Rhine first burst upon the 
Prussians, and drew forth one simul¬ 
taneous and exulting cry of triumph. 
“ To the Germans of eveiy age this 
great river has been the object of an 
affection and reverence scarcely inferior 
to that with which an Egyptian con¬ 
templates the Nile, or the Indian his 
Ganges. When these brave bands, 
having achieved the rescue of their 
native soil, came in sight of this its 
ancient landmark, the burden of a 
hundred songs, they knelt and shouted 
The Rhine ! the Rhine ! as with the heart 
and voice of one man. They that were 
behind rushed on, hearing the cry, in 
expectation of another battle.”— I. G. L. 

A toll was here paid, by all vessels 
navigating the Rhine, to the Duke of 
Nassau, the only chieftain remaining 
on the river who exercised this feudal 
privilege down to 1861. In the middle 
ages no less than 32 different tolls were 
established on the Rhine. 

In the middle of the river, opposite 
Caub, rises the quaint castle called the 
Pfalz, built by the Empr. Lewis 
the Bavarian, previous to 1326, as a 
convenient toll-house. To this little 
island Louis le Debonnaire retired to die, 
worn out with the cares of empire, 840, 
“ desiring that a thatched lodge or leafy 
hut, such as had served him while hunt¬ 
ing in the forest, should he prepared.” 
Here, “ lying on his couch, lulled by 
the soothing music of the gurgling 
waters,” he breathed his last.*— S. Ac¬ 
cording to a popular tradition the 
Pfalz served in former times as a place 
of refuge and security whither the 
Countesses Palatine repaired previous 

* See Palgrave’s eloquent History of Nor¬ 
mandy, 1851. 



Phen. Prussia. *, "route 38. —RHINE (d). bacharach. lorch. 289 


to their accouchements, which, -were it 
true, would be a proof of the insecure 
life led by princes as well as peasants 
in the turbulent times of the middle 
ages. Such an occurrence may have 
actually taken place in a single instance, 
but it is very unlikely that a rude toll¬ 
house should repeatedly have served as 
a princely abode. There are dungeons 
under it below the level of the river, in 
which state-prisoners of rank were once 
confined. The castle is accessible by 
means of a ladder, and the only entrance 
is closed by a portcullis (Fallthiir). The 
well which supplies it with water is 
filled from a source far deeper than the 
bed of the Rhine. 

(1.) Bacharach Stat. is at the side 
of the Rhine (Inn, Post), and is en¬ 
circled by antique walls, and defended 
by 12 towers, of strength in former days, 
of picturesque and ornamental appear¬ 
ance in the present. They are singular 
in their construction, having only 3 
walls, the side towards the town being 
open, probably to prevent their com¬ 
manding the town in the event of an 
enemy gaining possession of them. The 
name, Bacharach, is only a slight al¬ 
teration of the words Bacchi ara , the 
altar of Bacchus; a name conferred 
upon a rock in the bed of the river, ad¬ 
joining the island a little below the 
town, usually covered with water, but 
in very dry seasons appearing above the 
surface. The sight of it is hailed with 
joy by the owner of the vineyard, who 
regards this as a sure sign of a fine 
vintage. As a proof of the goodness 
of the wine of this neighbourhood, we 
are told that Pope Pius II. (iEneas 
Silvius) used to import a tun of it to 
Rome every year ; and that the city of 
Nuremberg obtained its freedom in 
return for 4 casks of it, which her 
citizens presented annually to the 
Empr. Wenzel. Down to the 16th 
cent. Bacharach was, jointly with Co¬ 
logne, the staple place for the wines of 
the Rhine. 

(1.) The truncated walls of the old 
castle of Stahleck , till 1253 the scat of 
the Electors Palatine, now the property 
of the Dowager Queen of Prussia, their 
descendant, crown the high hill behind 

[n. g.] 


Bacharach. Between them and the 
town stand the ruins of St. Werner's 
Ch ., an exquisite fragment of the florid 
Gothic style, built of hard red sand¬ 
stone in 1428. “ It was demolished by 

the Swedes in the Thirty Years’ War, 
but still shows in its E. end a lantern, 
the highest and most elegant lancet 
style existing.” — Hope. 

The body of the child Werner, fabled 
to have been thrown by the Jews, his 
reputed murderers, into the Rhine at 
Obcrwesel, instead of descending with 
the current, as all other bodies would 
have done, is reported to have ascended 
the stream as far as Bacharach, where it 
was taken up, interred, and afterwards 
canonized. To do honour to his relics, 
this beautiful chapel was built over 
them. 

An hour or two should be devoted 
by the traveller to Bacharach, to en¬ 
able him to enjoy the view from the 
castle of Stahleck, and to visit St. 
Werner’s chapel, and St. Peter's Ch., 
just below St. Werner’s, and close to 
the road. It was a Templar ch., and 
an early example of late Romanesque, 
resembling the churches of Limburg 
and Neuss. 

(rt.) Lorchhausen is traversed by the 
railway. Two stone gallows near this 
formerly marked the boundary line 
which divided the ancient territory of 
Mainz from the Palatinate. 

A pleasant walk of 19 m. leads 
from this to Schlangenbad up the 
Wisper Thai by Geroldstcin and 
Nieder-Gladbach. 

(rt.) At the mouth of the Wisper 
Thai, 600 ft. above the Rhine, is the 
ruined castle of Nollingen. 

(1.) The round Keep-tower and 
shattered walls of Fiirstenbnrg rise 
above the village of Rheindiebach. The 
castle was reduced to a ruin by the 
French in the war of the Orleans suc¬ 
cession, 1689. 

(rt.) Torch Stat. (Inn, * Sell wan) is 
one of the oldest towns on the Rhine 
(Laureacum ?), and is situated at the 
mouth of the picturesque valley of 
the Wisper. It was anciently in¬ 
habited by a knot of noble (knightly) 
families, many of whose castellated 
mansions remain. Among them is 

0 







290 route 38. —the rhine (d).~ castLEs. Sect. IV. 


the Burghaus of John Hilgen of 
Lorch, a contemporary of Franz of 
Sickengen, who fought against the 
Turks, date (1548). He is buried in 
the Ch., a handsome edifice of the 12th 
cent, (with more recent additions), 
containing an elaborate altar-piece of 
carved wood. Before the ch. stands a 
carved stone cross (date 1491). 

Here commences the district called 
the Bheingau (district of the Rhine), 
which extends upwards along the rt. 
bank as far as Walluf, and is remark¬ 
able as including all the most famous 
vineyards in which the best Rhenish 
wines are produced. 

1. The ruined castle of Heimburg. 
above the top of the houses of Niedcr- 
Heimbach village, close on the shore, 
has been converted by Mr. "VVachcr- 
barth into a modern mansion. Higher 
up is the very picturesque turreted ruin 
of Sonneck; it was originally a robber- 
castle, and destroyed as such by the 
Emperor Rudolph, 1282. It is now 
restored. Visitors to Rheinstein and 
Nicderwald may land hero. 

The river, on approaching Bingen 
and Assmannshausen, is truly “ the 
castellated Rhine.” 1. The castle of 
Reichenstein or Falkenburg stands on 
the summit of a rocky spur of the hill, 
and a little farther up on the same 
bank is that of Rheinstein, on a pro¬ 
jecting crag which rises almost perpen¬ 
dicularly from the bank of the river. 
Not far beyond Falkenburg, and be¬ 
tween the high road and the river, is the 
interesting Gothic Ch. of St. Clement, 
admirably restored from a state of ruin 
by the Prince Frederick of Prussia. 
Most of these residences of knightly 
highwaymen fell before the strong arm 
of the law in 1282, having been con¬ 
demned as robber strongholds. The 
forces of the League of the Rhine exe¬ 
cuted the sentence of the Diet of the 
Empire by storming and demolishing 
them, and thus put an end to the 
arbitrary exactions and predatory war¬ 
fare of their owners. 

At Trechtingshausen, under the ruins 
of Falkenburg is an iron-mine. 

The system of pillage which pre¬ 
vailed throughout Germany among the 
rulers of these almost inaccessible for¬ 


tresses, until the vigorous opposition of 
the towns on the borders of the Rhine 
put an end to it, is well illustrated by 
the following anecdote. An archbishop 
of Cologne, having built a castle, ap¬ 
pointed a seneschal to the command of 
it. The governor, previous to entering 
upon his office, applied to the bishop 
to know how and whence he was to 
maintain himself, no revenue having 
been assigned to him for that purpose. 
The prelate, by way of answer, merely 
desired him to observe that his castle 
stood close to the junction of 4 roads. 
A practice very similar to the arbitrary 
mode of levying tolls and custom duties 
adopted by these feudal tyrants pre¬ 
vailed up to the last century in our own 
country, in the black-mail exacted by 
the Highland chiefs and nobles from 
merchants on their way to and from the 
fairs or markets of the north. 

1. The Castle of Rheinstein, one of these 
ruins, has been restored as far as possible 
to its original condition, but only to 
serve the purpose of a peaceful summer 
residence for the sons of Prince Frederick 
of Prussia. The interior has been fitted 
up as a knightly dwelling of the days 
of chivalry; the walls hung with paint¬ 
ings ( Diirer , Cranach, Holbein, Hagen), 
and armour, the windows filled with 
painted glass, and the furniture either 
collected from ancient castles or con¬ 
vents, or made conformably to the 
fashions of former days. It is liberally 
shown to strangers, who are conducted 
round the castle by a domestic, who 
bears the ancient title of Schlossvogt. 
Fee, S. gr. for 1, 15-20 S. gr. for 4 
persons. At the narrow pass below 
Rheinstein, which even now, after 
having been -widened by French and 
Prussian engineers, leaves barely room 
for the road between the rock and the 
river, there existed till recent times a 
Jew's Toll, where certain fixed dues 
were levied upon all the Hebrews who 
passed. It is said that the contractors 
kept little dogs, who were trained to 
single out and seize the Jews from 
among the passing crowds! 

Wines and Vineyards of the Rhine. 

Opposite to Rheinstein is the village 
(rt.) of Assmannshausen Stat. {Inn, 







Bhen. Prussia, route 38.^-the Rhine (d)/ rhine wines. 29l 


HGtel de l’Ancre), which has a warm 
mineral spring, and may he added to 
the number of the Brunnen of Nassau 
by the construction of baths and ho¬ 
tels : it gives its name to a red wine 
of high reputation and price. The hills 
behind and around the hamlet which 
produce it are so very steep that it is 
only by artificial means, often by plant¬ 
ing the vines in baskets, that any soil 
can be retained around their roots. The 
vineyards are nothing more than a 
succession of ten-aces or steps, extend¬ 
ing from the top to the bottom of the 
hills, some of which must be nearly 
1000 ft. high. In some places more 
than 32 terraces may be counted, rising 
one above the other. They are sup¬ 
ported by walls of masonry from 5 to 
20 ft. high, and the breadth of some of 
the ledges on which the vines grow is 
not more than twice the height of the 
walls. To reach many of these narrow 
plots, the vine-dressers, female as well 
as male, must scale the precipices, and 
hang as it were from the face of the 
rocks, while a great deal of the soil 
itself and every particle of manure 
must be carried up on their shoulders. 
This will give some idea of the labours 
and expense of such cultivation, and 
of the great value of every inch of 
ground in these narrow strips to re¬ 
pay it. 

The life of the Rheinland vine¬ 
dresser indeed presents a rare example 
of industry and perseverance. Though 
by no means rich, they are generally 
the proprietors of the vineyards which 
they cultivate; and though their ap- 
peai-ance does not altogether verify that 
which painters draw and poets describe, 
they at least exhibit an aspect of cheer¬ 
fulness and intelligence. 

Independently of the hardness of the 
labour of cultivating the vine, which 
is not confined to any one season, 
but must be carried on perseveringly 
through the whole year, and is most 
severe during the heat of summer, the 
vine is a delicate plant,—frost, rain, or 
hail may in a few hours annihilate the 
produce upon which the cultivator de¬ 
pends solely for subsistence. One or 
two successive seasons of failure will 
ruin even an opulent family. 


Beyond the point on which Ass- 
mannshausen stands, the Rhine, whose 
coiu-se has hitherto been from S.E. 
to N.W., changes materially its di¬ 
rection, and flows from E. to W., 
pursuing this direction from Mayence 
hither. 

From the advantageous exposure 
produced by this bend in the river 
arises the excellence of the wines of 
the district of the Rheingau, as the 
rays of the midday sun, instead of 
being received obliquely, fall fall butt 
upon the vineyards situated on the rt. 
bank of the river, and all the best wines 
are confined to that side. The slaty 
deTris of the hills seems peculiarly fa¬ 
vourable for retaining the intense heat 
of the sun’s rays, so necessary for bring¬ 
ing the grape to perfect maturity ; and, 
in addition, this favoured portion of 
the valley of the Rhine is sheltered 
from N. and E. winds to a great ex¬ 
tent by the intervening barrier of 
mountains. 

The Rheingau is divided into the 
Upper and Lower Cantons (Gemar- 
kung), relatively to the position of the 
vineyards near the summits of the hills, 
or on the margin of the river: the 
high grounds produce the strongest 
wine, while that of the lower ground 
has an earthy taste ; that which grows 
at a moderate height between the two 
extremes is considered the most whole¬ 
some, and the best; though much 
depends on the season, which is some¬ 
times favourable to the produce of the 
heights, sometimes to that of the in¬ 
ferior slopes. 

Among the Rhine wines (improperly 
called Hock in England), the Johan- 
nisberg and Steinberg rank first, and on 
an equal footing, for their exquisite 
flavour and evanescent bouquet. Next 
follow Riidcsheim (Berg), Markobrun- 
ner, and Rotherberg, which possess 
much body and aroma. Hoehheim 
(which grows on the banks of the 
Maine, not in the Rheingau) ranks 
with the best of these second-class 
wines. Of the inferior wines, those of 
Erbach, Ilattenheim, and Rauhenthal 
(Rauenthalcr), are the best. The lighter 
wines, however, are apt to be hard and 
rather acid, as table wines. The Laubcn- 

o 2 








Sect. IV. 


292 ROUTE 38. —THE RHINE (d). EHrENFELS. 


heim and Nierstein, from the Palatinate I 
above Mayence, and the delicately- I 
flavoured Moselles, ai’e much preferred | 
to them as table wines in Germany. The j 
best red Rhine wine is the Assmanns- ! 
hausen, produced from vines originally 
brought from Burgundy. The vine 
chiefly cultivated on the Rhine is called 
Riesling; it yields a wine of fine 
flavour; the Orleans grape produces a : 
strong-bodied wine. 

The vintage on the Rhine used to . 
take place in the middle of October; 
but, by the present system, it is de¬ 
layed, in the beat vineyards, till No- j 
vember: in fact, it is put off to the j 
last moment the grapes will hang on the ! 
bunches. To make the best wines, 
the grapes are sorted, and those only 
of the best quality employed. The 
riper bunches are first selected, and j 
the rest left to hang for days or weeks 
longer. 

The culture of the vine was intro¬ 
duced on the Rhine and Moselle by the j 
Emperor Probus. 


The Rossel (rt.)$ a little tower stand¬ 
ing on the brink of the heights above 
Assmannshausen, and just discernible 
from the river below, is situated within 
the verge of the Forest of Niederwald , 
and commands one of the most magni¬ 
ficent views upon the whole course of 
the Rhine. Assmannshausen is a good 
point from which to commence the as¬ 
cent of the Niederwald, though Bingen 
or Rudcshc-im, where the inns arc bet¬ 
ter, should be made the head-quarters. 

We have now reached the upper 
limit of the gorge of the Rhine, com¬ 
mencing near Boppart, and affording 
so much grand scenery. Between Bin¬ 
gen and Boppart the Rhine cuts across 
a chain of mountains running nearly 
at right angles to the course of its 
stream. There are good grounds for 
supposing that at one time (before hu¬ 
man record) this range entirely stopped 
its further progress, damming up the 


waters behind them into a lake which 
extended as far as Basle, and whose 
existence is further proved by numerous 
freshwater deposits, shells, &c., to be 
found in the valley of the Rhine, above 
Mayence. Some vast convulsion, such 
as no existing causes could effect, must 
have burst through this mountain-wall, 
and made for the river the gorge or 
ravine by which it now obtains a passage 
to the ocean. 

A species of dyke or wall of rock, 
running obliquely across the river at 
this spot, is perhaps a remnant of this 
colossal barrier. It is passable for ves¬ 
sels only at one spot, where a channel 
called Binger Loch (Hole of Bingen) 
has been burst through it by artificial 
means. The impediments occasioned 
by it in the navigation of the river 
have been reduced from time to time. 

In 1830-32 the Prussian government 
widened the passage from 20 to 210 ft. 
by blasting the sunken rocks in the 
bed of the Rhine. 

1. A small monument by the road¬ 
side commemorates this; the pedestal • 
of the obelisk is formed of the stones 
extracted from the bed of the river. 

rt. The deepest navigable channel 
lies near the rt. bank, Under the shat¬ 
tered Avails of the castle of Ehrenfcls, 
an ancient stronghold of the Arch¬ 
bishops of Mayence, built in 1210, to 
Avhich they retired Avith their treasures 
in time of war and peril. It was 
stormed by Bernard of Saxe Weimar 
in the Thirty Years’ War, but AA'as de¬ 
stroyed by the French, 1089. 

Sometimes when the river is Ioav in 
autumn, a strong team of horses on 
the rt. bank assists in dragging the 
steamer up the rapid by the aid of a 
toAv-rope. 

Near to the 1. bank, Surrounded by 
the river, and not far from the spot 
where the waters of the Nahe unite 
with those of the Rhine, rises the li 
square Mouse Tower , rcnoAvncd for 

The Tradition of Bishop Hatto. 

II MJI 

r 

The summer and autumn had been so wet, 

That in winter the corn was growing yet; 

’T was a piteous sight to see all around 
The grain lie rotting on the ground. 
















293 


Rhen. Prussia, route 38. —the riiine (d). mouse tower. 


Every day the starving poor 
Crowded around Bishop Hatto’s door, 

For he had a plentiful last year's store ; 

And all the neighbourhood could tell 
Ilis granaries were furnish’d well. 

At last Bishop Hatto appointed a day 
To quiet the poor without delay : 

He bade them to his great barn repair, 

And they should have food for the winter 
there. 

Rejoic’d at such tidings good to hear, 

The poor folk Hock'd from far and near; 

The great barn was full as it could hold 
Of women and children, and young and old. 

Then when he saw it could hold no more, 
Bishop Hatto he made fast the door ; 

And while for mercy on Christ they call, 

He set lire to the barn, and burnt them all. 

“ I’ faith *tis an excellent bonlire !” quoth he, 

“ And the country is greatly oblig'd to me, 
For ridding it, in these times forlorn, 

Of rats that only consume the corn.” 

So then to his palace returned he, 

And lie sat down to supper merrily, 

And he slept that night like an innocent man ; 
But Bishop Hatto never slept again. 

In the morning, as he enter’d the hall 
Where his picture hung against the wall, 

A sweat like death all o'er him came, 

For the rats had eaten it out of the frame. 

As he look’d there came a man from his farm; 
He had a countenance white with alarm. 

“ My Lord, I open’d your granaries this morn, 
And. the rats had eaten all your corn.” 

Another came running presently, 

And he was pale as pale could be: 

“ Fly! my lord bishop, fly,” quoth he; 

“ Ten thousand rats are coming this way ; 

The Lord forgive you for yesterday !” 

“ I’ll go to my tower on the Rhine,” replied 
he, 

“ ’Tis the safest place in Germany; 

The walls are high, and the shores are steep, 
And the stream is strong, and the water 
deep!” 

Bishop Hatto fearfully hasten'd away, 

And he cross’d the Rhine without delay, 

And reach'd his tower, and barr’d with care 
All the windows, doors, and loopholes there. 

He laid him down, and clos'd his eyes ; 

But soon a scream made him arise. 

He started, and saw two eyes of flame 
On his pillow, from whence the screaming 
came. 

He listen’d and look’d : it was only the cat: 

But the bishop he grew' more fearful for that; 
For she sat screaming, mad with fear 
At the army of rats that were drawing near. 

For they have swum over the river so deep, 

And they have climb’d the shores so steep, 

And now by thousands up they crawl 
To tlje holes and windows in the wall. 


Down on his knees the bishop fell, 

And faster and faster his beads did he tell, 

As louder and louder, drawing near, 

The saw of their teeth without he could hear. 

And in at the windows, and in at the door, 

And through the walls by thousands they pour. 
And dow n through the ceiling and up through 
the floor. 

From the right and the left, from behind and 
before, 

From within and without, from above and 
below; 

And all at once to the bishop they go. 

They have whetted their teeth against the 
stones, 

And now they pick the bishop’s bones ; 

They gnaw’d the flesh from every limb. 

For they were sent to do judgment on him. 

Southey. 

Having given the romantic tradition, 
it is proper to add the prosaic history 
of the little tower. It appears to havo 
been built in the 13th cent, by a Bishop 
Siegfried (full 200 years after the death 
of Bishop Hatto), along with the oppo¬ 
site castle of Ehrenfels, as a watch- 
tower and toll-house for collecting the 
duties upon all goods which passed the 
spot. The word mans is probably only 
an older form of mauth , dutv or toll: and 
this name, together with the very un¬ 
popular object for which the tower was 
erected, perhaps gave rise to the do¬ 
lorous story of Bishop Hatto and the 
rats. The tale, too, may have been 
fixed on Bp. Hatto (originally Abbot 
of Fulda), because, though one of 
the most distinguished statesmen of 
his time, and the constant friend and 
councillor of the Empr. Otho the 
Great, he must have been remembered 
for his cruel perfidy. He died 970. 

1. Bingerbriick Junct. Stat. is close to 
the mouth of the Nahe and the stat. 
of the Rhine-Nahe Rly. (leading to 
Kreutznach, Rte. 100), and in full 
view of the Maus-Tower. The Rhine 
steamers do not stop here. 

Steam-ferry from this to Rudeshcim. 

1. The confluence of the Nahe and 
the Rhine. — Tacitus mentions the 
bridge of Drusus over the Nahe : the 
existing structure, erected 1011, and 
many times renewed, perhaps rests on 
Roman foundations. The Nahe di¬ 
vides the territory of Prussia from that 
of Hesse-Darmstadt. The Rly. crosses 








294 ROUTE 38. —RHINE (d). BINGEN. NIEDERWALD. Sect. IV. 


the Nahe on an iron lattice bridge, 
with passage also for pedestrians, 
below the old stone bridge, and keeping 
along the side of the Rhine passes the 
town to 

Bingen Stat., under the Rochusberg. 

1. Bingen. — Inns: Victoria, close to 
the Rhine, comfortable; Bellevue; 
Weisses Ross (White Horse), facing 
the river: in the town, Riese. The 
very interesting scenery in this neigh¬ 
bourhood is lost to those who merely 
pass up and down the river in a steam¬ 
boat or railway train. 

Bingen has 7000 Inhab., many Jews, 
and considerable trade in wine. It was 
• raised to great prosperity in the 14th 
cent, by certain Italian families of mer¬ 
chants, from Asti: the Ottini, Montesia, 
Broglio, Pomario, &c., who settled here. 
In the town itself there is not much 
to he seen. The ruin called Klopp , or 
Drusus’ Castle, above it, though not 
itself Roman, probably occupies the 
site of one of the forts built by Drusus. 
The ruins, now enclosed within a pri¬ 
vate garden, command a very interest¬ 
ing view. Entrance behind the Weisses 
Ross. 

fFrom Bingen the traveller may ex¬ 
plore the Rochusberg, Rheinstein, and 
the Niederwald, in one day. 

A very pleasant excursion may he 
made up the Nahe to Kreuznach and 
Oberstein (Rte. 100). Railu-ay to 
Kreuznach, Saarbriicken, and Treves. 

1. The white Chapel of St. Roch 
(Roclius Capelle) occupies the summit 
of the hill above Bingen, opposite 
Riidesheim. On the slope under the 
hill stands Hotel Hartman; good and 
reasonable. Whey and grape-cure. 
The ascent to it takes half an hour 
•—it may he made in a light car¬ 
riage, l|m. There is a pleasant walk 
to it from Bingen, at first along the 
new road on rt. hank of Nahe, and 
through woods whose shade is highly 
refreshing to one ascending a stiff hill 
on a hot day, to the summit of a knoll 
called Scharlachkopf, which commands 
an interesting view of the valley and 
windings of the lovely Nahe ; the ho¬ 
rizon is hounded by the Hundsriick 
mountains and the Mont Tonnerre 
(Donnersherg), while immediately under 


the spectator lie the bridges and town of 
Bingen. The slopes at the back of the 
hill have nearly the same 4 exposure as 
the viney r ards of the llheingau, and 
produce a wine, the Scharlachbergcr, 
not much inferior to them. The chapel of 
St. Roch is easily reached from the Kopf. 
The terrace behind the chapel almost 
overhangs the Rhine and commands a 
prospect not only up, but down the river. 
The Sunday after 16th of August is 
St. Roch’s day, when many thousand 
pilgrims assemble from all parts to pay 
their vows and offer their prayers to 
the saint, who is regarded as the averter 
of plague and pestilence. Gothe has 
written a very pleasing description of 
one of these festivals. He presented to 
the chapel the altar-piece which deco¬ 
rates its interior. You may descend by 
a different road, overlooking the Rhine, 
lj hour will suffice for this walk, 
which, instead of a single view, pre¬ 
sents a complete panorama of the sur¬ 
rounding country. 

The favourite excursion, however, 
from Bingen is to the heights above 
Riidesheim and Assmannshausen, called 
the Niederwald , which may be made in 
2^ or 3 hours, but which well deserves 
to have longer time devoted to it. The 
following plan of the excursion, having 
been already tried, may he considered 
worth adopting by others. 

Take a boat from Bingen, and descend 
the Rhine in 20 min. to the castle of 
Rheinstein. If you go on foot you 
cross the Nahe by the iron bridge. 
After seeing the castle, cross the Rhine 
to Assmannshausen : This wine-pro¬ 
ducing village supports a troop of don¬ 
keys for the express purpose of transport¬ 
ing visitors to the top of the heights of 
the Niederwald. The charge for" a 
donkey to Riidesheim is 1 fl. 15 kr. (22 
S. gr.). Those who prefer walking may 
experience some difficulty in finding 
their way among the numerous paths 
through the woods without a guide. 

After ascending the gully behind the 
village for about a mile, as far up as 
the vine grows, a path will he found to 
the right, which leads to the Jagd- 
Schloss , belonging to the King of 
Prussia, who is now the proprietor of 
the Niederwald, where refreshments 









ROUTE 38. —RHINE (d). rudesheim. 295 


Wien. Prussia. 

may be bad. This may be reached in * hr. 
from Assmannshausen; 10 min. more 
will bring you to the Bezauberte Ilbhle 
(magic cave). Within the space of a 
few feet, three vistas, cut through the 
trees, disclose three beautiful land¬ 
scapes of the Rhine, each different from 
the other, and having all the effect of a 
diorama. 

At no great distance from the cave 
is the Rossel, an artificial ruin, perched 
on the very verge of the precipice, 
which at a great height overlooks the 
black pools and turbulent eddies of the 
Bingerloch. The ruin of Ehrenfels 
appears half way down, hanging as it 
were to the face of the rock. The 
view is not surpassed by any in the 
whole course of the Rhine. “ One of 
the most remarkable features in it is the 
distinction in the stream of the river 
below of the waters of the Rhine in the 
centre (clear green), the Nahc, near the 
1. bank (dirty brown), and the Maine, 
near the rt. bank (dirty red). The 
Maine joins the Rhine about 20 m. above 
Bingen, yet the three rivers do not mix, 
it is said, until they reach the deep pool 
of the Lurlei.”— P. From this point the 
path again dives into the wood, and at 
the end of about a mile emerges at 

rt. The Temple , a circular building 
supported on pillars, planted on the 
brow of the hill, which commands 
another and quite different prospect, 
extending up the Rhine and across to the 
hills of the Bergstrasse and Odenwald. 
The author of Pelham calls this “ one of 
the noblest landscapes on earth.” 

The agreeable shade of the beech 
and oak trees composing the forest of 
the Niederwald completely excludes the 
sun, and renders this excursion doubly 
pleasant in summer time. 

To descend to Rudesheim from the 
Temple or the summer-house called the 
Hermitage will not take more than half 
an hour by the path leading through 
the vineyards which produce the fa¬ 
mous Rudesheim wine. Late in the 
autumn, when the grapes begin to 
ripen, the direct path is closed up, and 
a slight detour of an additional quarter 
of an hour must be made.] 


ASCENT OF THE RHINE CONTINUED. 

rt. Rudesheim Stat. Inns: Darm- 
stadter Hof; Rheinstein; Massmans. 

The excursion to the Niederwald, 
which is not more than a mile distant, 
may be made from hence quite as well 
as from Assmannshausen. The traveller 
will generally find donkeys or mules 
ready saddled to convey him. Paths 
strike off from the Temple rt. to the 
Jagd Schloss, and 1. to the Rossel. 

At the upper end of the town rises a 
picturesque round tower, and at the 
lower extremity, close to the water’s 
edge, stands the Bromserburg , a mas¬ 
sive quadrangular castle of the year 
1100, consisting of three vaulted stories, 
supported on walls varying between 
8 and 14 ft. in thickness. Though 
a ruin, it is carefully preserved from 
further decay, and several rooms have 
been neatly fitted up in it by its 
owner, Count Ingelheim. The tall 
square tower adjoining it is called 
Booscnburg. Another castle, the Brom- 
serhof , near the middle of the town, 
was the family residence of the knightly 
race of Bromser, long since extinct. 
“ Tradition says that one of these 
knights, Bromser of Rudesheim, on 
repairing to Palestine, signalised him¬ 
self by destroying a dragon, which was 
the terror of the Christian army. No 
sooner had he accomplished it than ho 
was taken prisoner by the Saracens; 
and while languishing in captivity he 
made a vow, that, if ever he returned to 
his castle of Rudesheim, he would de¬ 
vote his only daughter Gisela to the 
church. He arrived at length, a pil¬ 
grim, at his castle, and was met by his 
daughter, now grown into a lovely 
woman. Gisela loved, and was beloved 
by, a young knight from a neighbouring 
castle ; and she heard with consterna¬ 
tion her father’s vow. Her tears and 
entreaties could not change his pur¬ 
pose. He threatened her with his 
curse if she did not obey: and, in the 
midst of a violent storm, she precipi¬ 
tated herself from the tower of the 
castle into the Rhine below. A fisher¬ 
man found her corpse the next day in 
the river by the tower of Hatto: and 
the boatmen and vintagers at this day 





296 ROUTE 38. —-RHINE (d). RAILWAY. JOHANNISBERG. Sect, IV. 


fancy they sometimes see the pale form 
of Gisela hovering- about the ruined 
tower, and hear her voice mingling 
its lamentations with the mournful 
whistlings of the wind.”— Autumn near 
the Rhine. 

The best quality of the famed Riides- 
heim Wine grows upon the terraces over¬ 
hanging the Rhine, close to Ehrenfels. 
There is a tradition that Charlemagne, 
remarking from his residence at Ingel- 
heim that the snow disappeared sooner 
from these heights than elsewhere, and 
perceiving how favourable such a situa¬ 
tion would prove for vineyards, ordered 
vines to he brought hither from Bur¬ 
gundy and Orleans. The grapes are 
stilled called Orleans. Close behind the 
houses of Riidesheim grows a very good 
wine, called, from the position of the 
vineyard, Hinterhauser. Many of the 
Riidesheim vines are from 50 to 100 
years old, and send forth roots 18 to 
20 ft. long. 

Steamferry from Riidesheim to Bin- 
gerbriick Stat. 

1. The Hessian-Ludwig Railroad 
from Bingen to Mayence runs away 
from the Rhine by Ingelheim (Rte. 98). 

rt. Railway —Riidesheim to Biebrich, 
opposite Mayence, 16£ Eng. m. 5 trains 
daily, in less than 1 hr. (Opened 
1856.) Those who wish to visit the 
Brunnen of Nassau, on their way cross 
over by the steam-ferry from Bin¬ 
gen to Riidesheim and take this more 
interesting road along the rt. hank of the 
Rhine. They should stop at Riides¬ 
heim to see the Niederwald (if they 
have not visited it before); at Jo- 
hannisberg to see the chateau and 
vineyard; at Hattenheim to se.e the 
old convent of Eberbach, 2 m. out 
of the road. If they are hound 
to Schlangenhad (Rte. 95), they may 
turn to the 1., away from the Rhine, 
at Eltville; if they are going to 
Wiesbaden they proceed on to Bieberich 
before they quit it; and if they wish to 
reach Castel and Mayence they continue 
by its side. 

Above the Niederwald and the Ro- 
chusherg the mountains subside into 
gentle slopes, and the taller ridges of 
Taunus recede to a distance from the 
river. Although the succeeding dis¬ 


trict appears tame in comparison with 
that already passed, when viewed from 
the river, yet, when seen from any of 
the heights which command the Rhein- 
gau, it will be found to possess beauties 
of a softer kind, combined with a rich¬ 
ness and cheerfulness which are well 
calculated to draw forth admiration. 

(rt.) Geisenheim (Inn : Stadt Frank¬ 
furt), a town of 2400 Inhab., dis¬ 
tinguished by the twin Gothic towers 
and spires of open work (b. 1839) of 
its old Church —in which is a monu¬ 
ment to the Elector John Philip von 
Schonborn, 1675. There is another 
famous vineyard near this, upon the 
hill called the Rothenberg, which is 
much frequented on account of its fine 
view. The countiy seat of Baron 
Zwierlein contains a fine collection of 
stained glass from the commencement of 
the art to the present time ; and in his 
garden grow 500 varieties of the vine ! 

rt. Winkel Stat. (Vini Celia, so called 
because Charlemagne’s wine-cellar was 
situated here) and Oestrich, 2 unim¬ 
portant villages. At Mittclheim, near 
Winkel, is a curious church, date 1140, 
with a nave and 2 aisles all under one 
roof, and with a portal built of white 
and grey stone, in a mixed style of 
Moorish and middle-Italian. 

rt. The very conspicuous white man¬ 
sion on the heights, at some little dis¬ 
tance from the river, is the Chateau of 
Johannisberg , the property of Prince 
Metternich, standing in the midst of 
the vineyards which produce the most 
famous of the Rhine wines. The 
house, built 1716, though seldom in¬ 
habited, was enlarged by its late 
owner, long prime minister of Austria. 
It is not remarkable, but the view 
from the balcony and terrace is very 
fine. In the Schlosskirche is a marble 
monument to P. Metternich’s tutor, Nic. 
Yoght. It is difficult to obtain admit¬ 
tance to the cellars : they are very ex¬ 
tensive. The first owners of the vineyard 
of Johannisberg were the abbots of 
Fulda: it was originally attached to the 
abbey and convent of St. John, after¬ 
wards secularised. In the beginning 
of the present cent, it belonged to the 
Prince of Orange; hut before it had 
been in his possession 3 years Napo- 






Rhen. Prussia 


ROUTE 38. —-RHINE (d). EBERBACH. 


leon made over the vineyard as a gift 
to Marshal Kellermann. At the close 
of the war it again changed hands, and 
in 1816 was presented by the Empr. 
of Austria to Prince Metternich, to be 
held as an imperial fief. The ground 
around is too precious as a vineyard to 
he laid out in gardens : no trees are 
allowed, as they would deprive the vines 
of the sun’s rays; but on the N. side of 
the house there is a sort of wilderness 
planted with trees. The best wine grows 
close under the chateau, and indeed 
partly over the cellars. The species of 
vine cultivated here is the Riesling. 
The management of it at all seasons re¬ 
quires the most careful attention. The 
grapes are allowed to remain on the 
vines as long as they can hold together, 
and the vintage usually begins a fort¬ 
night later than anywhere else. The 
vine-grower is not satisfied with ripe¬ 
ness, the grape must verge to rotten¬ 
ness before it suits its purpose ; and al¬ 
though much is lost in quantity by this 
delay in gathering, it is considered that 
the wine gains thereby in strength and 
body. So precious are the grapes that 
those which fall are picked off the ground 
with a kind of fork made for the pur¬ 
pose. The extent of the vineyard is 
about 70 acres, and it is divided into 
small compartments, the produce of each 
of which is put into separate casks : even 
in the best years there is considerable 
difference in the value of different casks. 
Its produce amounts in good years to 
about 40 butts (called stiicks), each of 7 £ 
ohms, and has been valued at 80,000 fl. 
The Director, who conducts you over 
the vineyard, receives no fee, hut ex¬ 
pects you to drink a bottle of his wine, 
costing from 4 fl. to 20 fl. 

The Rhine here attains its greatest 
breadth, 2000 ft., spreading itself out to 
about double the width which it has 
below Riidesheim; at Cologne it is only 
1300 ft. broad, and at Wesel only 1500 
ft. In the middle of its channel are 
numerous small islands extending all the 
■way up to Mayence. 

Oestrich Stat. 

7 Hattenhcim Stat. 

rt. Count Schbnborn’s chateau, Reich- 
artshausen , a short distance below the 
village of Hattenheim (1000 Inhab.), 


297 

contains an interesting collection of 
paintings, chiefly modern. 

rt. A little higher up the river, upon 
the hiU of Strahlenberg, grows the 
famous Markobnmner wine, so named 
from a small spring or fountain close to 
the high road, which here runs on the 
borders of the river. 

The nobles of the Rheingau, once so 
numerous, rich, and powerful, are greatly 
diminished in number and wealth. The 
chief of those ancient families still re¬ 
siding on its banks are the Counts Ingel- 
heim, Schonborn, and Elz; these, with 
Prince Metternich, possess the best 
vineyards on the Rhine. 

(rt.) At Erbach (Inn. Engel), hid 
from the steamboat by an island, is 
the chateau of Princess Mary Anne of 
the Netherlands, containing a collection 
of paintings and sculpture. 

|[(rt.) An excursion may be made 
either from Hattenhcim (2^ m.), or from 
Erbach (3 m.), (Inn, Engel), a small 
village, to the Cistercian Convent of 
Eberbach, once the most considerable 
monastic establishment on the Rhine. 
It is prettily situated at the foot of the 
hills, in a sheltered nook, nearly sur¬ 
rounded by woods, which, sweeping 
down the slopes, spread themselves like 
a mantle around it. It was founded by 
St. Bernard de Clairvaux in 1131. It 
is converted into a prison and lunatic 
asylum, for which it is well calcu¬ 
lated by its vast extent. These 
establishments are exceedingly well 
managed, but they are not readily shown 
to strangers. More accessible and in¬ 
teresting to those who take pleasure in 
architecture are the Churches , very pure 
specimens of the Romanesque style, 
derived doubtless from Cologne. The 
oldest of these, a small building, sup¬ 
ported by 2 rows of slender columns, is 
probably part of the first foundation of 
St. Bernard, erected 1131. It is now 
occupied by wine-presses, and some of 
the best Rhine wines are made in it. 
The larger Church, Kloster Kirche, 
was built 1186: it is of severe archi¬ 
tecture. There are many monu¬ 
ments, especially of the Katzenelnbo- 
gens and von Steins (de Lapide); one 
of a knight, u amicus fidelis hujus 
monast.” MCCC.; also of Abbots 

o 3 



^ect. IV. 


298 E. 38. —RHINE (d). EAIL. STEINBERG. ELTVJLLE. 


and Archbisliops of Mayence, Ger- 
lach (1371), and Adolph II. von Nas¬ 
sau (1474). The long dormitory, in 
the pointed Gothic of the 14th cent, 
imposed on round work, and the 
Chapter-house of the 15th, also merit 
notice. The vaults under these build¬ 
ings are used as cellars. 

The celebrated Steinberg vineyard, 
once the property of the monies of 
Eberbach, now of Prussia, lies upon 
the slope of the hill, close to the con¬ 
vent. The wine produced from it is 
esteemed quite as much as Johannis- 
berg ; and the culture of it is managed 
with even greater care and cost than 
that vineyard. It consists of about 100 
valuable acres, enclosed within a ring 
fence : the high wall is passed in going 
to Ilattenhcim or Erbach. In the 
spring of 1836 half of the finest wines 
in the cellars were sold by public 
auction. The cask of only 105 gallons, 
Steinberger of 1822, has been sold for 
500/.; equivalent to 16s. 4 d. a bottle. 

From the Moss-house on the Boss, a 
neighbouring height, a view is obtained 
which the author of the Bubbles calls 
“ the finest he had witnessed in this 
country.”] 

At the top of the hill above Eberbach 
is an enormous building, a Lunatic 
Asylum, Staats Irrenhaus. 

1. In the distance, on the top of the 
hill, nearly opposite, or on a line with 
Hattcnheim, may be discerned Ingel- 
heim, the favourite residence of Char¬ 
lemagne, now a poor village. (Rte. 98.) 

Charlemagne used to resort to the 
low islands in the middle of the Rhine 
irom Ingelheim to fish. His unfortu¬ 
nate son Lewis, pursued by his own im¬ 
pious sons, ended his days (840) on one 
of them, a fugitive. 

rt. The large building between Er¬ 
bach and Eltville is the Draiser Hof, 
once an appendage to the convent of 
Eberbach. 

rt. Eltville Stat. (Alta villa)— Tnns: 
Rheinbahn Hotel, at the stat.; Rhein- 
gauer Hof; Engel— is the only town of 
the Rheingau. It has 3000 Inhab., 
is conspicuous from its situation in the 
midst of the finest Rhine vineyards, and 
picturesque from its Gothic towers. 
The lofty Watch- Tower surmounted by 


4 turrets, at the upper end of the 
town, is part of the castle built in 
the 14th centy. by the Archbishops of 
Mayence, who often retired hither 
to escape from their own citizens of 
Mayence. Here Gunther of Schwarz- 
burg, besieged by his rival Charles 
IV., resigned the crown, 1349, and 
died, probably of poison. Around the 
town are many handsome villas and 
country-seats of the German noblesse. 
In that of Graf von Elz are some good 
pictures—a fine Domenichino, Susanna 
in the Bath. 

In the pretty valley behind Eltville 
lies the village of Kidriclx, a place of 
pilgrimage, with a beautiful Gothic 
Chapel of St. Michael, built 1440, 
conspicuous for its turret openwork. 
In the Ch., St. Valentin, is curious 
woodwork and original galleries coeval 
with the building. The tower of 
Scharfenstein, once the residence of 
the bishops of Mayence, rises above 
Kidrich. The Grdfcnberg wine is pro¬ 
duced here. 

Omnibus several times a day from 
Eltville Stat. to Schlangenbad and 
Schwalbach. A bridle-path through 
the woods, 6 m. to Schlangenbad. 

The ch. tower of Rauenthal, overlook¬ 
ing a vineyard of some repute, crowns 
a hill, from which is seen one of the 
most extensive Panoramas of the Rhine 
valley. 

rt. 12 NiederAValluff Stat. {Inn, 
Schwan). At the end of the 'VVall- 
daffthal, about 4 m. N.W., lies Rauen¬ 
thal, famous for its wine and its view. 

rt. Schierstein Stat. is a village with 
more than 1300 Inhab. 

Here ends the Rheingau, “ the Bac¬ 
chanalian Paradise,” which, bounded 
by the. Taunus hills on one side, 
and by the Rhine on the other, extends 
along the rt. bank of the river as far 
down as Lorch. It was given to the 
Abps. of Mainz by a Carlovingian 
king, and was protected by a wall and 
ditch, some portion of which may still 
be seen near Biebrich. A road turns off 
here to Schlangenbad, 8 m. (Rte. 95.) 

[Vt. About 4 m. behind Schierstein 
is the village of Frauenstein, with ruined 
castle and enormous lime-tree.] 

1. Mosbach Stat., close to the Duke of 








Rhen. Prussia. 


R. 38. —riiine (d). biebrich. mayence. 299 


Nassau’s park. Passengers proceed 
to Wiesbaden direct, also to Frankfurt. 
J m. on rt., at the river’s side, is 

rt. Biebrich {Inns: H. de 1’Europe; 
Rheinischer Ifof). The Chateau , a sum¬ 
mer residence of the Duke of Nassau 
down to 1866, of red sandstone, with 
a circular projection in the centre, 
is one of the handsomest palaces on 
the Rhine, though now somewhat 
dilapidated. The interior is remark¬ 
able only for the splendour and 
taste with which it is fitted up, 
and for the views up and down the 
Rhine. The gardens behind are of 
great extent and very pretty, and are 
liberally thrown open to the pub¬ 
lic. They are famous for their white 
and red chesnuts, and contain some 
fine ornamental timber. In the minia¬ 
ture castle of Mosbach, within their 
circuit, on the bank of a small artificial 
lake, a number of Roman antiquities 
are preserved. 

Biebrich, united with Mosbach, now 
forms a considerable town, standing 
on the limits of the Duchy of Nassau. 
Above this, the rt. as well as the 1. 
bank of the Rhine belongs to Hesse- 
Darmstadt. English Ch. Service on 
Sundays' in the Ducal chapel. Pas¬ 
sengers bound for Frankfurt or Wies¬ 
baden may disembark here, and take the 
train to Wiesbaden in 10 min., and 
to Frankfurt in lj hr., saving thereby 
half an hour’s detour by the river and 
detention at Mayence. The train is 
drawn by horses along a short branch 
from Biebrich to the main Taunus line. 
(Rte. 95.) 

The red towers of Mayence (1.) now 
appear in sight, surrounded by fortifica¬ 
tions, connected by a bridge of boats 
over the Rhine with 

rt. Castel Junct. Stat., its fortified 
suburb and tete du’ pont (Barth’s 
Inn , good; Taunus H.,—both close to 
the railway). 

1. Mainz Junct. Stat., at the extreme 
N. end of the city, on the Rhine Quai, 
for Rly. to Bingen, Cologne, and 
Darmstadt. 

1. Mainz (Fr. Mayence). Inns: 1st 
class: *H. d’Angleterre, very good, 
suited to English travellers (Mr. Specht, 


the landlord, is recommended as aRhine- 
wine merchant); * Rheinischer Hof; 
*Hollandischer Ilof: these 3 hotels are 
on the Quay, facing the Rhine. 2nd 
class: Landsberg ; Mainzer Hof. At 
Castel, on the rt. bank of the Rhine, 
near the Railway Stat., *Barth’s Taunus 
Hotel. 

The landing-places of the steamers 
of the Lower Rhine are below the Boat- 
bridge, nearly a mile from the Darm¬ 
stadt Rly. Stat. Porterage: 6 kr. for a 
trunk under 50 lbs.; 9 kr. for one of 
greater weight; small parcels 3 kr. 
each. Florins and kreutzers here come 
into use (Sect. VIII.); but Prussian 
dollars are also current. 

Mayence, the Moguntiacum of the Ro¬ 
mans, belongs to the Grand Duke of 
Hesse-Darmstadt, and is the most con¬ 
siderable and important town in his 
dominions; but, as the chief and strong¬ 
est fortress of the North Gennan Con¬ 
federation, it is garrisoned by 7,500 
Pi’ussian troops since 1866. It lies on 
the 1. bank of the Rhine, nearly opposite 
the junction of the Main. It has 43,100 
Inhab., including garrison. 

Upon the Quai, where the steamer 
stops, very near the Englisher Hof, arc 
1 4 large red buildings—the Kurfurstliche 
! Schloss , or ancient Palace cf the Electors 
\ of Mayence, now the Museum (see be¬ 
low) ; the Grossherzogliches Schloss, 
originally Deutsches Haus (Teutonic 
House)—it was occupied by Napoleon 
I., and is now the occasional residence 
of the Grand Duke of Darmstadt and 
of Prince Louis, and has become the 
palace of the governor of the fort¬ 
ress ; Barrack , a huge edifice, forming 
j one side of the Schloss Platz ; and the 
Arsenal. 

The most remarkable objects in Mainz 
—the * Cathedral (of St. Alban), a vast 
building of red sandstone, blocked up on 
all sides but the E. by mean houses, in 
the massive round-arched style, inter¬ 
esting for its great antiquity, having 
been begun in the 10th and finished in 
the 11 th cent. The building, however, 
has suffered so much at different times 
from conflagrations, from the Prussian 
bombardment of 1793, and afterwards 
(1813) from having been converted into 
a barrack and magazine by the French, 






300 


ROUTE 38. —THE RHINE (d). MAYENCE. DOM. Sect. IV. 


that the only portion of the original 
structure remaining in a tolerably per¬ 
fect state is the E. apse, flanked by 2 cir¬ 
cular towers (978-1137). The octagonal 
tower (Pfarrthurm) at the E. end has 
been surmounted with a cupola of cast- 
iron 70 ft. high, designed by Moller. 
This ch., as well as those of Worms, 
Treves, and Spire, has a double choir 
and high altars both at the E. and W. 
ends, and transepts. The W. choir 
dates from 1200—1239 : the side chapels 
on the N. side were added 1291, those 
on the S. 1332. The most beautiful of 
them, that of All Saints, containing a 
very fine window, was built 1317. The 
double chapel of St. Gothard, adjoining 
the N.W. transept, was built 1136. 

The interior, well restored and richly 
painted, 1864, at the cost of the citizens, 
is filled with Monuments of Archepiscopal 
Electors of Mainz; the greater num¬ 
ber, placed upright against the piers and 
walls, are interesting illustrations of 
the progress and decay of the temporal 
power of the German church. The Arch¬ 
bishops of Mainz had the right of plac¬ 
ing the crown on the head of the Ger¬ 
man Emperors, and they are sometimes 
represented on their tombs in that act. 
That of Archbp. Peter von Asfeldt (1305 
—1320) bears, in addition to his own 
effigy rudely carved, those of the Em¬ 
perors Henry VII., Louis the Bavarian, 
and John King of Bohemia, all of 
whom ho had crowned ; but, while his 
figure is on a scale as large as life, theirs 
are only half the size, and appear like 
children beside him: also Archbishop 
Siegfried v. Eppstein (1249) is crown¬ 
ing King William of Holland and 
Baspo of Thuringia. 

The monuments best worth notice in 
point of art are the following, dating 
at the end of the 15th or beginning of 
the 16th cent.: Prince Albert of Saxony, 
1484; Dean Bernhard von Breidenbach, 
1497, executed with great truth of ex¬ 
pression and most delicate finish; Arch¬ 
bishop Berthold v. Ilenneberg, 1504, 
still more pure in style; Archbp. Jacob 
of Liebenstein (1508), and Uriel von 
Gemmingon. Among those of later 
date we may mention that of General 
Lamberg(1689), in a full-bottomed wig, 
being squeezed down into a marble 


trunk by Death! Three other monu¬ 
ments deserve mention on account of 
the persons whose memories they re¬ 
cord. One is that of Fastrada, third 
wife of Charlemagne (794), by the sido 
of the Beautiful Doorway leading 
into the cloisters (date 1397-1412), and 
has been restored. Another is the 
tomb of the Minstrel or Minnesanger 
Frauenlob, “Praise the Ladies,” so 
called from the complimentary charac¬ 
ter of his verse. His real name was 
Heinrich von Meissen. He was a canon 
of Mainz cathedral, and so great a fa¬ 
vourite of the fair sex, that, his bier was 
supported to the grave by 8 ladies, who 
poured over it libations of wine at the 
same time that they bathed it with their 
tears. His monument, a plain red 
tombstone, stands against the wall of the 
cloisters. It bears his portrait in low 
relief, copied (1783) from the original, 
which was destroyed by the carelessness 
of some workmen. A more worthy monu¬ 
ment from Schwanthaler’s chisel was 
erected in 1843 to the “ Ladies’ Min¬ 
strel,” by the ladies of Mayence. On 
the 1. side of the nave is a red sand¬ 
stone monument, erected 1357, to St. 
Boniface , the apostle of Germany, and 
first Archbp. of Mayence. He was an 
Englishman named Winfried, born at 
Crediton, in Devonshire, and became a 
monk in the Benedictine Abbey of Nut- 
sail, near Winchester, in which, in the 
beginning of the 8th cent., he taught 
poetry, history, rhetoric, and the Holy 
Scriptures. He left his country, with 
11 other monks, to preach the gospel to 
the barbarous nations of Germany ; in 
the course of his mission he converted 
more than 100,000 heathens; his mis¬ 
sionary labours, interrupted only by 3 
short visits to Borne, lasted more than 
30 years, and extended from the Elbe 
to the Bhine, and from the Alps to the 
ocean. 

Observe also the Easter-Sepulchre, 
figures life-size, a fine specimen of me¬ 
dieval sculpture—the pulpit , a modem 
restoration; the figures of the apostles 
are copied from those by Peter Yischer 
at Nuremberg. An ancient font of lead, 
formerly gilt (1328), behind the eastern 
altar, and the brazen doors opening into 
the Market-place (called SpeiseMarkt), 






RJien, Prus. 


301 


RTE. 38. —THE RHINE (d), MAINZ. MUSEUM. 


on the N. side of the cathedral, also de¬ 
serve notice; they were brought from 
the ruined Liebfrauenkirche, and are 
as old as the 10th cent. In 1135 Bp. 
Adalbert I. caused to be engraved on 
the upper valves of the doors an edict, 
by which he conferred various import¬ 
ant privileges upon the town in consi¬ 
deration of the aid which the citizens, 
his subjects, had afforded him, in res¬ 
cuing him out of the hands of the Em¬ 
peror. They procured his release from 
prison by seizing on the person of the 
Emperor, and detaining him as a host¬ 
age until their own sovereign was de¬ 
livered up. 

In the sacristy are preserved two very 
ancient chalices, probably of the 10th 
cent. ; one, the gift of Archbishop 
Willigis, is an example of Byzantine 
art. 

The Elector of Mainz, who was also 
Archbishop, was premier prince of the 
German empire; he presided at Diets, 
and at the election of Emperor, where 
he exercised very powerful influence ; 
so that one Primate, Werner, on pro¬ 
posing a candidate, is reported to have 
added, “ I have others in my pocket.” 
His dominions comprehended 146 Ger¬ 
man square miles, with a population of 
400,000 souls, and a revenue of 1\ mil¬ 
lion of florins. Pie maintained a body¬ 
guard of 2000 men and a squadron of 
hussars. 

The canons of the Cathedral, sup¬ 
ported by its enormous revenues, lived 
a jovial life, as may be gathered from 
the answer they returned to the Pope, 
who had reproved them for their worldly 
and luxurious habits: “ We have more 
wine than is needed for the mass, and 
not enough to turn our mills with.” 
The Dom is open in the morning down 
to 11‘30, and from 2 to 6 p.m. 

St. Stephen's Ch. (in the S.W. part of 
the town), built 1317, has a nave and 2 
aisles of nearly equal height: the clois¬ 
ter is of the 15th cent. It contains 
some old paintings on gold grounds and 
numerous monuments. Its tower com¬ 
mands the best view of Mayence. If 
you ring the bell at the bottom, the 
kuster who lives above will let down 
the key in a slipper by a line, so that 
you can let yourself in. 


Museum , in the ancient KurfUrstlicho 
Schloss (close to the Bhine, and at the 
end of the long street called Die grosse 
Bleiche). The collections consist of, 1. 
Paintings , of no great excellence. The 
best works are,—Christ and the Four 
Penitents, David, the Magdalen, the 
Prodigal Son, and the Penitent Thief, 
by Otto Vennius; —A Carmelite Monk 
‘receiving the dress of his order from 
the Virgin, A. Caracci; —St. Francis 
receiving the Stigmata (five wounds), 
Guercino; — Virgin and Child, Lo- 
renzo da Credi , the gem of the collec¬ 
tion ; — St. Apollonia, Domenichino ; 
—St. Andrew and St. Ursula, by Lu¬ 
cas van Leyden , or some old German 
master.—The Life of the Virgin, by 
M. Griineivald , is curious: also Adam 
and Eve, by Albert Diircr, but so 
much injured and painted over as to 
show few traces of the master. 2. An¬ 
tiquities , curious, because for the most 
part found in the neighbourhood, such 
as Homan altars, votive tablets, and in¬ 
scriptions bearing the names of the le¬ 
gions stationed on this spot; also several 
capitals of columns from the palace of 
Charlemagne at Ingelhcim, in the style 
of Roman architecture, being, perhaps, 
the plunder of ancient buildings in Italy; 
some fragments of sculpture from the 
venerable Kaufhaus, pulled down with¬ 
out cause in 1805 ; and a model of the 
double stone bridge which Napoleon 
proposed to throw over the Rhine here. 
The Town Library is a very respectable 
collection (100,000 vols.), where are 
preserved some interesting specimens 
of the earliest printing, 1459-62. 

The Theatre is a handsome building 
designed by Moller, after the classical 
model of the theatres of the ancients, in 
which the outer form bears some relation 
to the interior. 

The Public Gardens (die neue Anlage) 
outside the fortifications, on the S., be¬ 
yond the Neue Thor, and nearly oppo¬ 
site the mouth of the Main, are highly 
deserving of a visit, on account of the 
beautiful view they command of the 
junction of the Main and Rhine (Main- 
spitz), of the town of Mayence, the fine 
rly. bridge, with passing trains, the vine¬ 
yards of Ilochheim, Wiesbaden with its 
golden pinnacles, the Rheingau, and the 





302 


ROUTE 38. —MAINZ. TOWER OF DRUSUS. 


Sect. IV. 


distant range of the Taunus. To add 
to the attractions of this spot, the ex¬ 
cellent military bands of the garrison 
regiments play here on Wednesday, 
between 5 and 8 r.M. There is a 
cafe at one extremity of the garden, 
forming the favourite evening resort 
of the inhabitants in summer. 

The military hands may he heard, 
also on parade on the Schiller Platz, 
Wednesday, at 12. 

Another good view may he had from 
the top of the Tower of Drusus , an an¬ 
cient Roman structure, believed to he 
the tomb of Drusus, son-in-law of Au¬ 
gustus, and founder of Mayence, whose 
body was brought hither after his 
death, raised to his memory by the 2nd 
and 14th Legions, b.c. 9, 8, 7 (exer- 
citus honorarium tumulum excitavit— 
Sueton., Claud, i.). From mutila¬ 
tion or decay, its base is now reduced 
to smaller dimensions than the upper 
part, and it is vulgarly known by the 
name Eichelstein. All the external ma¬ 
sonry has long since been stripped olf, 
and the passage for the staircase lead¬ 
ing to the top was drilled through the 
solid mass in 1689. It stands within the 
Citadel , hut is readily shown by one of 
the soldiers. Fee, kr. 12. Excavations 
made in forming new fortifications have 
laid bare the foimdations of the original 
Roman Castcllum Moguntiacum of 
Drusus, and show that it was an oblong 
square, with flanking towers, planted 
on the eminence overlooking the con¬ 
fluence of the Main. 

Mayence has been from very early 
times a frontier fortress. It owes its 
existence to the camp which Drusus 
pitched here, which he immediately 
afterwards, converted into a permanent 
bulwark against the Germans. It soon 
became the most important of that 
chain of fortresses which he built along 
the Rhine, and which were the germs 
of most of the large towns now existing 
on that river. Though reduced from its 
former wealth and splendour by the 
fortunes of war, and still showing, in its 
irregular streets and shattered and trun¬ 
cated buildings, the effects of sieges 
and bombardments, it ought not to be 
regarded merely as a dull garrison 
town. Europe is indebted to this city 


for two things which have had the 
greatest influence in effecting human 
improvement—the liberation of trade 
from the exactions of the feudal aristo¬ 
cracy, and the Printing Press. It was 
a citizen of Mayence, Arnold von Wal- 
boten, who first suggested the plan of 
freeing commerce from the oppression 
of the knightly highwaymen, with 
whose strongholds the whole Continent 
was overspread at the beginning of 
the 13th cent., by a confederation of 
cities which led to the formation of 
the Rhenish League, 1247. This same 
Walboten deserves to be held in 
grateful remembrance by every Rhine 
tourist; since many of the ruined 
castles which line its banks were re¬ 
duced to their present picturesque con¬ 
dition at his instigation, and under the 
energetic rule of the Emperor Rudolph 
of Habsburg, as being the haunts and 
strongholds of tyranny and rapine. 

Mainz was the cradle of the art of 
Printing , and the birthplace and resi¬ 
dence of John Gensfleisch, called 
Gutemberg, the discoverer or in¬ 
ventor of moveable types. In 1837 
a bronze statue of Gutemberg, mo¬ 
delled by Thorwaldsen, and cast at 
Paris, was erected in the open space 
opposite the Theatre, by subscriptions 
from all parts of Europe. Gutem- 
berg’s house no longer exists ; but 
upon its site stands the Civil Casino , 
a club or reading-room at the end of 
the Schuster Gasse. Gensfleisch (liter¬ 
ally, goose-flesh) was born between 1393 
and 1400, in the corner house between 
the Emmeran Str. and the Pfandhaus 
Str., which still exists, and his fi'st 
printing-office, from 1443 to 1450, is 
the house called Hof zum Jungen, or 
Fdrberhof. 

A Statue of Schiller has been set tip 
in the Schiller Platz (formerly Thicr- 
markt), now connected by a broad 
avenue with the height called Kastrich, 
opened out by the explosion of a powder 
magazine in 1857, and now covered 
with fine buildings. 

r l he English Church service is performed 
every Sunday by a clergyman licensed 
by the Bishop of London, in the Clara 
Strasse. 

Lear the village of Zahlbach, about a 







Rhenish Prussia. 


303 


ROUTE 39.-THE AHR VALLEY. 


mile beyond the Gauthor, on the rt., 
arc considerable remains of a Roman 
aqueduct nearly 3000 ft. long, which 
conveyed water to supply the garri¬ 
son from a spring 5 miles off; 62 piers, 
some 30 ft. high, remain, but it is said 
to have originally consisted of 500. In 
a grove near these piers some Homan 
tombstones mark the site of a ceme¬ 
tery. 

Mayence carries on a great trade 
in corn brought out of Bavaria and 
Central Germany, and shipped down 
the Rhine ; also in timber. Very good 
and cheap furniture is made here. 

Excellent Hochheimer and Rhine wine 
may be procured at the house of Hoff¬ 
man. 

A bridge of boats, 1666 ft. long, over 
the Rhine, unites Mainz to Cassel, or 
Cast el (Castellum Drusi), a busy and 
flourishing faubourg, strongly fortified 
as a tete de pont. At the extremity of 
the bridge a bomb-proof block-house 
serves in time of peace as a barrack; 
but in case of war the roof can be re¬ 
moved, and the upper platform mounted 
with cannon. There is a heavy toll for 
carriages passing the bridge. 

A permanent Railway-bridge was 
thrown across the Rhine 1862, to con¬ 
vey across to the tongue of land called 
Mainspitz, the rly. to Darmstadt and 
Aschaffenburg. It is 1212 ft. long, 
and cost 3 million florins. 

On the Mainspitze is a strong modern 
Fort , in the place of one erected by 
Gustavus Adolphus, to command botii 
rivers. 

Railways —Station at Castel on rt. 
bank of the Rhine (Rte. 90) ; —to 
Frankfurt in 1 hr.to Wiesbaden by 
Biebricli in 16 min.. 

Station in Maycnce on the Rhine 
Quai, at the upper end of the town;— 
to Mannheim and Heidelberg, by 
Worms and Speicr;—to Forbach and 
Paris (Rte. 101);—to Bingen, Cob¬ 
lenz, and Cologne;—to Darmstadt and 
Aschaffenburg. 

N.B. A Ferry Steamer plies across 
tbc Rhino between the Rly. Stat. at 
Mayence and that at Castel. 

Excursions to be made from Ma¬ 
yencc are,—to Frankfurt by railway; 
to Wiesbaden ditto (6 m.), visiting the 


Chateau and Garden of Biebricli on the 
way. (Rte. 99.) To Worms: Cathedral, 
and Luther’s Monument. 

Steamboats go from Mayence several 
times a day to Coblenz and Cologne, 
twice a day to Mannheim during summer 
(see Rte. 102). N.B. 5 hrs. to Mann¬ 
heim instead of 2 hrs. by rly. 


ROUTE 39. 

THE AHR VALLEY.—REMAGEN TO A11R- 
WEILER AND ALTENAHR. 

To Ahrweiler, 9 m.'l Dil. several times 
Altenahr, m./ a day in 3 hrs. 

From Sinzig on the Rhine. Diligence 
to Ahrweiler. 

The scenery of the Ahr valley, be¬ 
tween Ahrweiler and Altenahr, is by 
many esteemed equal in beauty to that 
of the Rhine. By means of excellent 
roads it may be explored with the ut¬ 
most case and convenience. 

A carriage may be hired at the Preus- 
sischer Hof in Remagen, with 2 horses, 
to Altenahr and back, for 4^ to 5 thal., 
tolls and driver included. 

A passenger leaving the railway or 
steamer at Remagen, after seeing the 






304 


ROUTE 39.—THE AHR VALLEY. AHRWEILER. • Sect. IV. 


church on the Apollinarisberg may 
walk over the shoulder of the hill of 
Landskrone, and join the carriage-road 
at Heppingen, 4£ m. 

The road on the 1. bank of the Rhine 
as far as Rcmagen is described Rte. 
37. 

Between Remagen and Sinzig the 
Ahr in summer often dries* up to a 
mere thread, but, swelling in winter to 
a furious torrent, enters the Rhine. A 
carriage road, turning off abruptly at 
the bridge of Sinzig, ascends the valley 
along the 1. bank of the stream, passing 
through Bodendorf andLohrsdorf; bend¬ 
ing round and under the basalt-capped 
hill of Landskrone. The ruined walls on 
its summit are those of a castle, built 
1205 by Philip of Hohenstaufen dur¬ 
ing the war between him and Otho of 
Brunswick for the Imperial crown, 
1198-1208. It was destroyed by the 
French 1689 ; only its chapel escaped, 
partially built over a cave lined with 
basaltic columns, which serves as sa¬ 
cristy. There is a good view from this 
hill of the winding of the Ahr. 

Near Wadenheim, between Hep¬ 
pingen and Ahrweiler, is 

Neuena.hr (Inns: Kurhaus, good; 
Concordia; Schwitzler) where a warm 
mineral spring was discovered 1861, re¬ 
sembling those of Ems and Vichy, and 
baths have been erected on the opposite 
(rt.) bank of the Ahr. The waters are 
very efficacious in diseases of the lungs, 
gout, and scrofula. The Hotel and Bath 
Establishment are well provided for 
the wants of invalids. Dr. R. Schmitz 
is physician here. 1000 visitors re¬ 
sold hither in a season. 1000 ft. above 
the baths rises the ruined Castle of 
Neuenahr. Ahrweiler is 2^- m. from 
this. Below Ahrweiler the valley is 
a tame and open, though rich and 
well cultivated plain. Above it lies 
the gorge for which the Ahr Valley is 
celebrated. 

9 m. Ahrweiler (Inns: Krone; Stern), 
a cheerful town of 2500 Inhab., whose 
chief occupation and wealth are derived 
from their vineyards, which cover the 
slopes of the valley. The situation is 
pretty; it is still surrounded by old 
walls, and is approached by 4 gates. 
The church is a beautiful Gothic edifice, 


with a triple choir (date 1245-74). 
The town was burnt by the soldiers of 
Turenne, 1646, and suffered again from 
the French in 1688. The picturesque 
Calvatdenberg, on the opposite side of 
the Ahr, is an Ursuline nunnery, and 
occupied by sisters from Montjoie, who 
keep a ladies’ school (fine view). The 
gate tower at the entrance of the town 
from Walporzheim is a picturesque 
object, well preserved externaUy. 

At Walporzheim, the first village 
traversed by the road after leaving 
Ahrweiler, the Burgundy grape is cul¬ 
tivated, and produces a strong red wine, 
which is highly prized.—Ahrbleichart 
(i. e. Bleich-roth, pale-red). Here the 
valley contracts, and is hemmed in by 
rocky cliffs, and the wild and beautiful 
scenery begins. Above the road rise 
singularly formed, jagged precipices, 
200 feet high, from which an isolated 
block, called die bunte Kuh , projects 
over the road. At Marienthal, to 
the rt. of the road, are the ruins 
of a convent. A footpath leads over 
the hills from behind the village of 
Dernau to Altenahr ; the carriage road, 
now continued uninterruptedly along 
the 1. bank of the Ahr, passes in sight 
of the picturesque village of Rech , and 
under a rock crowned by the ruined 
castle of Saffenburg, to Maischoss. 
The heights above Rech command 
beautiful views. They are crossed 
bv a road to Kesseling. The patient 
toil exerted in cultivating the vine on 
every accessible shelf of rock up the 
declivities of the hills around is not 
surpassed in the most valuable vine¬ 
yards on the Rhine. Here and at 
Lochmuhle is the principal fishery of 
Riimpchen (minnows), the Cyprinus 
phoxinus of naturalists, which are taken 
in baskets placed in weirs or dams of 
the river. They should not exceed an 
inch in length, and, having been boiled 
in salt water, are packed in baskets 
made of willow bark, which imparts to 
them the bitter flavour for which they 
are esteemed. The Ahr is also celebrated 
for its crawfish and trout, which, how¬ 
ever, are taken chiefly in its tributary 
streams. 

Beyond Lochmuhle the road avoids 
a bend of the river by a cutting, 40 ft. 




Rhenish Prussia, route 39 . —the 

doep, through tho rock (grauwacke). 
Before reaching Altenahr a most 
striking scene opens out: precipices 
of slate-rock rise to a height of 350 ft., 
partly wooded, partly covered with 
vines, and on their highest peak arc 
perched the ruins of the Castle of Alte¬ 
nahr , the finest object in the whole 
valley. 

A footpath strikes off to the rt. above 
Roimerzhofen, and leads through vine¬ 
yards to the Cross, § m. walk, 350 ft. 
above the Ahr, the best point of view in 
the valley, whence the castle is well 
seen. A path on the opposite slope leads 
up to the castle, or down into Altenahr. 
The traveller should send on his carriage 
from this to Altenahr, and walk up to 
the cross. N.B. During the vintage, 
Sept, and part of Oct., this path is 
shut. 

The precipitous rock, crowned by 
the castle, seems to deny all passage 
up the valley; the river sweeps round 
its base, and forms so complete a curve, 
that, after a course of a mile and a half, 
it almost returns to the same point. The 
Tunnel through this wall of rock, 530 
ft. long, carries the road direct into 

7^ m. Altenahr {Inns:* Caspari’s, 
good and clean; Rheinischer Hof, on 
the river bank) is a village of 400 
Inhab. Ascend to the ruined Castle of 
Altenahr , above the town; the view will 
richly reward the trouble of the ascent. 
It belonged to the Counts of the Ahr 
and of Hochsteden, one of whom was 
Archbishop Conrad, founder of Cologne 
Cathedral. 

Travellers having come to Altenahr 
in a carriage, or being unable to 
walk, will retrace their steps to the 
Rhine. A moderately good walker may 
cross the hills by a bridle-road, which, 
by the directions given below, he can 
easily find without a guide, provided he 
can speak a little German, from the vale 
of the Ahr to the abbey of Laach (7 
stunden = 20 miles) (Rte. 40), whence 
he should return to the Rhine through 
the pretty valley of Brohl, which ought 
not to be missed. 

The carriage road from Altenahr up 
the valley proceeds by way of Alten- 
burg, situated under a singular isolated 
rock, formerly crowned by a castle of 


AHR VALLEY. ALTENAHR. 305 

the lords of the Ahr. Tho castle of 
Kreuzberg, with tho village of the 
same name, presents a striking point of 
view, and the church of Putzfeld, 
perched up in the rocks, with a singu¬ 
larly high steeple, is also very pictur¬ 
esque. The road continues through 
Bi’iick and Honningen to 

6 m. Diimpelfeld, where the road 
leaves the Ahr, and the traveller pro¬ 
ceeding to Treves quits that river. 

21 Adenau {Inn, Halber-Mond), a 
town of 1200 Inhab., on one of the tri¬ 
butaries of the Ahr, under the two high¬ 
est hills of the Eifel, both capped with 
basalt—the Hohe-Acht, 2434 ft., and 
the Niirberg, 2118 ft. About 4 m. dis¬ 
tant are the ruins of the castle of Niir¬ 
berg, the finest and most extensive feudal 
stronghold in the Eifel. From henco 
the traveller may find his way to Mayen 
(Rte. 40), passing another old castle, 
Virneburg, whose lords in ancient days, 
besides other possessions, were the pro¬ 
prietors of 23 villages. 

The carriage-road to Laach (10^ m.), 
and Andemach (15 m.) crosses the 
shoulder of the Hohe-Acht by Ivalten- 
born (3 m.), Leembach (3 m.), and 
Ivempenich (3 m.). A carriage from 
Adenau costs 7 thalers. 









306 ROUTE 40. —THE LOWER EIFEL. LAKE OF LAACH. Sect. IV. 


ROUTE 40. 

THE LOWER EIFEL.—BROIIL ON THE 

RHINE TO THE LAKE OF LAACH, 

MAYEN, AND LUTZERATII. 

Tonnisstein, 3£ m. 

Wassenach, 2£m. 

Abbey of Laach, 3 in. 

Niedermcndig, 3 m. 

[Mayen, 3 m.j or 

Andernacb, 10 m. 

This tour may be made in a car¬ 
riage from Andernacb in 5§ hrs. 

The traveller may leave the Rhine 
at Brohl or Andernach (see Rte. 37). 
If he starts from Brohl (where Nunn’s 
inn is good), a cross-road, but cal¬ 
culated for light carriages, ascends the 
beautiful valley of Brohl, passing in 
succession Nippes, a hamlet named 
from the Dutch Nieuwe Huis, the 
paper-mill and trim garden, the Trass 
mills and quarries. The nature of 
the tufa rock composing this valley 
is described under the head of Brohl 
in Rte. 37. It lines the valley in 
cliffs, rising 20 to 50 ft., and resembles 
the spongy texture of pumice. The 
quarries formed for extracting it arc 
driven into the rock in open galleries, 
supported by pillars of rock, draped 
with ivy and other shrubs. The Castle 
of Schweppenburg , once belonging to 
the counts of Metternich, rises on a 
knoll in the midst of the valley. 

Numerous jets of carbonic gas issue 


out of the rocks H and impregnate the 
water of the springs which feed the 
Brohlbach. One of these is 

4i m. The spring of Tonnisstein, 
whose agreeable mineral water re¬ 
sembles those of Selters, but is more 
effervescent. Mixed with Rhenish 
wine and sugar it is very palatable. 
Some of these springs have been in¬ 
geniously collected, and are employed 
i n Baths. {Inn: Kurhaus.) 

Before reaching Tonnisstein the road 
to Laach turns out of the Brohlthal, 
diverging 1. into a winding side valley, 
whose scenery is very pleasing, as 
far as 

2 i m. Wassenach, a small village 
lying at the foot of the hills, whose 
interior includes the lake of Laach, and 
having an humble inn. 

A continued ascent of about 1 m. 
from the village leads to the margin 
of the Laacher See, a very singular 
lake, of a nearly circular form, sup¬ 
posed to occupy the crater of an ex¬ 
tinct volcano, and nearly resembling 
the crater lake of Bolsena, in Italy. 
It lies 666 ft. above the Rhine, is 
about l'| m. long, and about 1^ 
broad, its area being 1300 acres. The 
depth is great, increasing towards the 
centre, where a plumb-line sinks to 214 
ft. There is a popular notion similar 
to that attached to the lake Avemus, 
in Italy, that no bird can fly over the 
Laacher See, in consequence of the poi¬ 
sonous vapours arising from it. This 
belief seems to have originated from 
the circumstance that a jet of car¬ 
bonic acid gas issues from a scarcely 
perceptible opening on the N. E. side 
of the lake opposite the Abbey. It 
is the only remaining symptom of 
the volcanic action once so power¬ 
ful in this district. Bodies of birds, 
squirrels, bats, toads, &c., have been 
found in a pit near this jet, killed by 
the noxious vapours, which resemble 
those of the Grotto del Cane, in Italy. 
The Laacher See is fed by numerous 
springs below the surface, which keep 
its basin constantly filled. It has no 
natural outlet; but the superfluous 






Rhenish Prussia. R. 40. —the lower eifel. eieder-mendig. 807 


waters are carried off through a subter¬ 
ranean canal or emissary , nearly 1 m. 
long, cut by the monks in the 12th 
century, after an inundation which 
threatened to overwhelm the abbey. 

The appearance of the deep blue lake, 
hemmed in on all sides by a ridge of 
hills completely covered with luxuriant 
wood down to the water’s edge, is ex¬ 
ceedingly imposing as well as singular. 
On a near examination its banks will 
be found to be scattered over with 
masses of scoriae, cinders, ashes, and 
pumice, and other volcanic products. 
At the opposite extremity, in a quiet 
secluded nook, shut out as it were from 
the wholo world, lies the deserted 

3 m. Abbey of Laach , a picturesque 
object, with its 5 towers reflected in 
the lake, is one of the most perfect 
examples of Rhenish architecture. It 
was originally a very wealthy Bene¬ 
dictine Convent. There were 52 
monks at the time of its suppression 
bv the French, when its revenue was 
sequestrated and it was sold, together 
with the lake and woods adjoining, 
for only 40,000 thalers. Since 1803 
it has become the property of the 
Jesuits by purchase ; they have estab¬ 
lished a clerical seminary in it. 
The Church , a Romanesque building, 
small; only 215 ft. long by 62 ft. wide, 
complete in plan, with a choir at both 
E. and W. ends, apsidal terminations, 
surmounted by 5 towers and an octagon, 
was built between 1093 and 1156. It is 
entered at the W. end through a cloister, 
The interior possesses little interest. 
The tomb of the founder, Pfalzgraf 
Henry II., stands at the W. end, sur¬ 
mounted by his effigy in wood, in his 
princely mantle and hat, bearing in 
his hand the model of the ch. There 
is a good Inn near the abbey (Maria 
Laach), which will furnish tackle for 
pike fishing. 

There is a picturesque view of the 
abbey and lake from the hill about £ 
mile on the road to Mayen on the first 
ascent from the shore of the lake. 

The traveller may return to the Rhine 
by way of Wassenach to Andernach along 
a tolerably good carriage road, a drive 
of about 2| hrs.; but if lie ha? time, 


from Kloster Laach ho should visit the 
great 

Millstone Quarries of Nieder-Mendig, 
3 m. S.E. of the abbey, which have 
been worked, it is supposed, for 2000 
years. The hard porous lava or black 
basalt, which was probably a stream 
from one of the neighbouring volcanoes, 
extending nearly 5 m. in length by 3 
in breadth, has here been hollowed 
out by the quarriers of millstones into 
funnel-shaped pits, from the bottom 
of which spacious subterranean caverns 
ramify, deserving by all means to be 
explored with torches. The lava sepa¬ 
rates into gigantic columns from 15 to 
40 ft. high, by natural seams or fissures, 
and some of them are left to support the 
roof. The icy cold temperature of these 
caverns make them invaluable for Beer 
Cellars. 

From Mendig (where there is no 
good inn) the traveller may return to 
the banks of the Rhine at Andernach 
(6m.),or Neuwied Stat.,bya good road. 
There are, however, many other objects 
of interest, both for the lover of the pic¬ 
turesque and for the geologist, in this 
district. For instance, the Rausch , near 
the village of Pleidt, is a romantic 
fall of the Nette river worth a visit, 
10 min. off“ the road, near 'a mill. 
About 2 m. S. W. of Laach are the 
cave-like excavations of Bell, whence 
oven-stone (pierre au four) is obtained. 
The direct road from Mendig to Cob¬ 
lenz (14 m.) passes the Ch. of St. 
Genovefa. 

A tolerable road leads from Mendig 
to Mayen, along the banks of the Nette, 
passing the interesting and well-pre¬ 
served *Castle of Burresheirn , retaining 
much old furniture, tapestries, &c., 
under the Iloch Simmer, a volcanic 
mountain. There are many other fine 
old ruined castles in the Eifel, as Yir- 
neburg, Olbriick, a noble ancient for¬ 
tress : its donjon measures 45 ft. by 30 
at its base, and it has a tower 170 feet 
high. Werner seek and Manderschcid 
(Rtc. 45) are two more remarkable 
castles. 

3 m. Mayen (Inns: Post; Ivohl- 
haus) is a picturesque and ancient 








308 


ROUTE 41. —COBLENZ TO TREVES, 


Sect. IV. 


town, 6 m. from Laacli, through. Bell 
and Ettringen, surrounded by its old 
walls, and retaining 2 gateways, in the 
midst of orchards and gardens. There 
are many millstone quarries near it, 
Schnellpost twice daily to Coblenz in 
3 hrs.; to Neuwied Stat. in 2^ hrs. 

From Mayen the traveller has the 
choice of the following routes :—1. By 
Polch to Miinster-Maifeld, Schloss Elz, 
Treis, and Carden, where he will find 
himself in the most beautiful part of 
the Moselle, and may ascend that river 
to Treves, or descend to Coblenz. 
Starting from Mayen very early in the 
morning, and proceeding through Collig 
to Pillig and Schloss Pyrmont in a car¬ 
riage, the traveller may, after inspect¬ 
ing Schloss Pyrmont, walk across the 
country to Schloss Elz, see that, and, 
descending the valley of the Elz, reach 
Moselkern in time for the steamer de¬ 
scending to Coblenz. 2, The high post¬ 
road to Treves and Coblenz (Bte. 41). 
3. If he take an interest in geology, he 
may proceed by a rough cross-road to 
the mountain called “ Hohe Acht,” near 
Kaleborn, 2200 feet above the sea, com¬ 
manding from its summit a most exten¬ 
sive view. He will find a road leading 
thence to Liitzerath and Bertrich (Etc. 
41), to Ahrweiler (Ete. 39), and to the 
Upper Eifel (Ete. 45). 


EOUTE 41. 1 

COBLENZ TO TREVES — BERTRICH 
BATHS. 

15'| Bruss. m. = 71 Eng. m. 

Schnellpost twice daily in 15 hours ; 
with extra post the distance may be tra¬ 
velled easily in 12. Schnellposts daily to 
Mayen and Miinster-Maifeld. The 
road, though very hilly, is good, and 
the country (especially in the neigh¬ 
bourhood of Liitzerath) not unpictu- 
resque. Within a short distance, be¬ 
tween the road and the Moselle, there 
are some charming scenes. As there 
is no post-road along the banks of 
the Moselle, the best way to explore its 
beauties is to ascend or descend it in 
the steamer. (Ete. 42.) 

Upon the first stage from Coblenz to 
Treves lie many unimportant villages ; 
but the first of them, Metternich, gives 
its name to a family now known all 
over Europe. 

3! Polch. 

[The small town of Miinster-Maifeld 
(Inn: Mayfelder Hof; no good inn) lies 
on the left of the road, about 5 m. off, 
in a beautiful situation. By some it is 
said to have been the birthplace of 
Caligula (?). The Ch. of St. Martin ; 
the W. end is Bomanesque, centre 
Gothic, aspidal choir Transitional. The 
tower is surmounted by battlements 
and machicolations flanked by bartizan 
turrets, like a castle, and is peculiarly 
picturesque. The choir, restored in 
gaudy colours, contains a fine marble 
group, nearly life-size, of the En¬ 
tombment, and 2 sculptured Triptychs 
or folding altar-pieces, painted. About 
3 m. distant, in the midst of one 
of the most picturesque of all the 
tributary valleys of the Moselle, stands 
the very interesting old Castle of Elz , 
described in Ete. 42. The castle is 
about 3 m. distant from the Moselle. 
About 3 m, higher up the valley is 




liken. Prussia. 

another castle, Pgrmont, in ruins, having 
been burnt by the Swedes in 1641; 
near it is a cascade.] 

Halfway between K cling and Dun- 
gcnheim the road crosses the picturesque 
valley of the Elz. 

The traveller coming from Treves, 
and wishing to explore the Lower Eifcl 
(Rte. 40), w'ould turn off to the left 
at Kehrig, towards Mayen, instead of 
proceeding at once to Coblenz. 

2£ Kaisersesch. Cross the picturesque 
Marten thal. 

2£ Liitzerath. Inn: Post; not good. 

This is the best starting-point for an 
excursion to the volcanoes of the Upper 
Eifel. (Rte. 45.) 

Diligence from Liitzerath twice a day 
to the Baths of Bertricli. 

[An excellent road leads through 
most interesting scenery from Liit- 
zerath to Alf on the Moselle, about 
10 m., passing the Baths of Bertrich , 
nearly half-way. They lie in the depths 
of the narrow Valley of the Ues, or 
Issbach, distinguished for its sinuosities, 
which present a succession of scenes, 
varying every few yards, and for the 
umbrageous foliage of the woods, which 
clothe its sides from top to bottom, 
jttst before the road descends into the 
Valley, it passes near the Falkenlei, 4J m., 
a conical hill cut in two as it w r ere, crested 
With basalt, in the crannies of which the 
falcons nestle. It was probably a vol¬ 
canic crater, from which a stream of 
basalt, occupying the lower part of the 
valley above the slate rocks which form 
its sides, may have issued* though the 
laVa current has not been absolutely 
traced to this source. Its gloomy cre¬ 
vices and grottoes, glazed with black, 
are well worth exploring. A mile farther, 
at the junction of a little rivulet with 
the Iss, another basaltic current enters 
the valley. It appears to have been cut 
through by the stream, which, falling in 
a small cascade, has laid open a singular 
grotto, the sides, roof, and floor of 
which consist of small basaltic columns, 
worn away at the joints, so as to re¬ 
semble cheeses. This has obtained for 
the cave its common name of cheese 
cellar (Kiisekeller). The junction of 


309 

the clay-slate and lava is very dis¬ 
tinctly seen in the bed of the 
rivulet. The Baths of Bertrich con¬ 
sist of an assemblage of inns and 
boarding-houses, and a handsome Bath¬ 
house of stone (12 baths) {Inns: 
Post; Klering’s), in a romantic and 
retired spot, shut in by hills, and 
almost canopied by woods intersected 
by agreeable walks. The waters are 
warm (90^ Fahr.), alkaline, and 
abound in Glauber salts. A Protestant 
chapel was built here 1849. The sea¬ 
son lasts till August; but Bertrich is a 
quiet rather than fashionable water¬ 
ing place. It is well situated as head¬ 
quarters for travellers intending to ex¬ 
plore the Moselle. The steamboat from 
Coblenz to Treves touches at Alf , a 
village at the junction of the Issbach 
and Moselle 5 m. below the Baths 
(Rte. 42). A capital road leads thither. 
Carriages are kept here. From Bert- 
rich to Treves, a well-engineered road, 
over the mountains, falls into the 
high road at AVittlich (8 m.); see 
below.] 

About 2 m. out of Liitzerath the road 
crosses what is called the Lutzerather 
Ivehr (from kehren, to turn), one of the 
Valleys peculiarly characteristic of the 
Eifel district, and remarkable for their 
wonderful windings and contortions. 
Every projection on the one side of it 
corresponds with a bay or recess on the 
other, so that the stiream of the Ues or 
Issbach, which flows through it, driven 
from one side to the other by these 
advancing and retreating buttresses, is 
Seen at one time in 7 different bends oi* 
turns, taking at every bend which it 
makes an exactly opposite direction to 
that in which it had previously flowed. 
It is altogether a singular scene. 

2§ Wittlich (Inn: Post; abominable), 
a town of 22,000 Inhab. A hilly road 
leads hence to Bertrich baths (8 m.). 
The descent into the glen on this side 
is very fine. Diligence to Treves daily. 

2 Hetserath. 

Beyond Schweich the Moselle is 
crossed by a ferry, and the road pro¬ 
ceeds by the rt. bank to Treves, passing, 
near the entrance of the town, the Porta 
Nigra, or Black Gate. 


ROUTE 41. —BATHS OF BERTRICH. 






310 


route 41. —Treves. 


Sect. IV/ 


PLAN OP TREVES. 



1 Casino. 

2 Law Courts. 

3 Basilica. 

4 Dom. 

6 St. Gingoulph. 


6 Lieb Frau Ch. 

7 Library. 

8 Post Office. 

9 Roman Baths. 
10 Museum. 


11 

12 Theatre. 

13 Roman Tower. 

14 Stadthaus. 









































































































liken, Pruss . 


ROUTE 41. —»TREVES. ROMAN REMAINS. 


811 


ENVIRONS OF TREVES. 



2'j Treves (Fr. Trices; Germ. Trier'). 
Inns : Trierischer Hof, very good, table 
d’hote at 1^; *Das Rothe Haus (the lied 
House), comfortable and best situated. 
Post, 2»c? class: Luxemburger Hof, 
good ; II. de Venise, near the steamer. 

This very ancient city stands on the 
rt. bank of the Moselle, in a valley of 
exuberant richness, surrounded by low, 
vine-clad hills; it has 21,850 Inhab. 
An inscription on the wall of the Rothes 
Haus (formerly the Town-hall) asserts 
that Treves was built before Rome— 
“ Ante Romam Treviris stetit annis 
MCCC.” Without giving credit to 
this, it may fairly be considered the 
oldest city in Germany. Julius Caesar, 
when he first led the Roman armies into 
this part of Europe, found Treves (b. C. 
58) the flourishing capital of a power¬ 
ful nation, the Treviri, who, as allies of 
the Romans, rendered them great as¬ 
sistance in conquering the neighbouring 
tribes. The Empr. Augustus esta¬ 
blished here a Roman colony, under the 
name of Augusta Trevirorum , and be¬ 
stowed on it the privileges of having a 
senate and magistrates of its own. It 


became the capital of First Bclgic Gaul 
(which, it must be remembered, com¬ 
prised not only Gaul, properly so 
called, but the whole of Spain and 
Britain); and in later times it was the 
residence of the emperors Constantius, 
Constantine the Great, Julian, Valcn- 
tinian, Yalens, Gratian, and Theodosius, 
and became so eminent in commerce, 
manufactures, wealth, and extent, and 
withal so advanced in learning and the 
arts, that Ausonius the poet, who lived 
here, calls it the second metropolis of 
the empire. It was indeed the capital 
of the Roman empire N. of the Alps. 
Although almost annihilated during the 
invasion of the Goths, Huns, and Van¬ 
dals, it arose to a height of splendour 
nearly equalling its former state, under 
the rule of the Archbishops of Treves, 
who were Princes and Electors of the 
empire, and made Treves their residence 
for more than 1000 years, until 1786, 
when the last Elector Clement Wenzel 
removed to Coblenz. Many of them 
aimed more at temporal than spiritual 
sway. They maintained large armies, 
which, after the fashion of the times, 







































312 ROUTE 41. —TREVES. CATHEDRAL. 


they did not scruple to lead in person, 
clad in armour. The ambition and 
talents of many of these episcopal rulers 
increased their dominions so much as to 
obtain for them considerable political 
influence in Germany. Treves was 
taken by the English under Marlborough 
in the AVar of the Succession, 1702-4; 
and at the French Revolution suffered 
the usual fortune of having its churches 
and convents stripped of their wealth, 
and the buildings turned into stables or 
warehouses. Before that event Treves 
boasted of possessing more ecclesiastical 
buildings than any other city of the 
same size. 

Treves is at present a decayed town, 
owing the chief interest it possesses for 
the traveller to the Roman remains still 
existing in and about it. No other city 
of Germany or northern Europe pos¬ 
sesses such extensive relics of the mas¬ 
ters of the world. They are not, it is 
true, in the best style of art, and are 
remarkable rather for vastness than 
beauty; and in this respect bear no 
comparison with the Roman remains in 
the S. of France or in Italy. They 
have likewise suffered severely, not only 
from the Vandalism of the Vandals 
themselves, but from the prejudices of 
the early Christians* who believed they 
Were doing good service to their reli¬ 
gion by effacing all traces of Paganism 
from the earth. Many of the buildings 
have been demolished, to furnish ma¬ 
terials for modern constructions. 

In the Market-Place stands a pillar 
of granite, surmounted by a cross, raised 
to commemorate the appearance of a 
fiery cross in the sky, seen, according 
to an obscure tradition, in 958. 

The * Cathedral of St. Peter and St. 
Helen. Peculiar interest attaches to 
this ch., exhibiting, as it does, succes¬ 
sive developments of the Romanesque 
style, from its original germ—a Roman 
building, erected by the Empress 
Helena, Constantine’s mother—down 
to its ultimate completion in the 12th 
cent. 

For several centuries after its foun¬ 
dation it consisted of two distinct 
buildings: 1st, a circular baptistery; 


Sect. IV. 

2nd, an oblong ch., the latter divided 
into 3 compartments—an atrium, or 
cloistered court, open in the centre to 
the sky; eastward of this the nave; 
terminating in a small semicircular 
apse. This is all that remains of 
Helena’s original construction, com¬ 
prehending the greater portion of the 
present cathedral, the baptistery having 
been taken down in the 13th cent., and 
replaced by the neighbouring ch. of St. 
Mary. 

The cathedral remained in its original 
condition until Archbp. Poppo in the 
11th cent, rebuilt nearly the whole 
edifice, encased the Roman pillars with 
stone, roofed the atrium, added it to 
the nave, and then completed his work 
by attaching a western apse, so that, 
after the German fashion, there is an 
apse at each end. 

During the latter portion of the 12th 
cent, a much larger apse was built at 
the eastern extremity, enclosing the 
original one, and exhibiting the various 
characteristics of the latest Roman¬ 
esque, just before it merged in the first 
Pointed style. The building abounds 
with beautiful Romanesque details, 
among which may be specified a very 
elegant doorway of the 11th cent, in the 
S. aisle of nave. In the tympanum 
our Lord is represented seated, holding 
an open book, with the Virgin on his 
rt. and St. Peter on the 1. These 
figures arc said to be of the 8th cent. 
The ch. is 314 ft. long, 90 ft. high. 
It contains several monuments of its 
electoral archbishops. See those of 
John v. Metzcnhausen (d. 1540), and 
of Richard v. Greifenklau (d. 1530), the 
violent opponent of the Reformation, 
who defended Treves against Franz v. 
Sickingen. An antique sarcophagus, 
which served the purpose of a font. 
Cloisters of extreme beauty, 13th cent., 
stand on the S. side of the cathedral. 
In them may be noticed a stool, on 
which evil-doers, who had fled to the 
sacred precincts for sanctuary, had to 
sit. Here too may be seen a Gothic stone 
lantern of exquisite beauty, supported 
by a spiral shaft, and crowned by a 
finial. 

The Vestry contains some interesting 









liken. Prus. R.4i. —Treves. lieberauenkircHe. palace, baths. 313 


specimens of mediaeval art, among 
them a crozier of the 14th cent., which 
was saved from the French, when they 
pillaged the ch. during the He volution, 
by being concealed in the straw mattrass 
of a monk. 

The far-famed Holy Coat , said to he 
formed of camel’s hair, is 5 ft. long, and 
when not exhibited is walled up inside 
the high altar, spices being put into the 
chest which contains it, to prevent its 
being eaten by moths. The first men¬ 
tion of it occurs 1190. In 1844 it was 
publicly exhibited to a million of de¬ 
votees, who flocked from all parts to see 
it. The carving of the marble pulpit is 
good, as far as the mutilations caused 
by the French leave the means of 
judging. The seats of the choir are 
inlaid with ivory and wooden mosaic 
(marqueterie). 

Adjoining the cathedral stands the 
far more graceful Church of our Lady 
(Liebfrauenhirche ), built in the most 
elegant Pointed style, between 1227 
and 1243; and being one of the earliest 
specimens of pure Gothic, to be com¬ 
pared with the similar and contempo¬ 
raneous churches of Marburg in 
Hesse, Altenbcrg near Cologne, Ess- 
lingen on the Neckar, and the ca¬ 
thedrals of Amiens, Salisbury, and Co¬ 
logne. The semicircular portal is richly 
ornamented with sculpture, and the in¬ 
terior, in the shape of a Greek cross, is 
supported by 12 pillars, each bearing 
the picture of an apostle. A little black 
stone in the pavement near the door is 
the only spot whence all these can be 
seen at once. The monumentof Archbp. 
Jacob von Sirk is a fine work of an un¬ 
known sculptor. A doorway in the N. 
transept also is well worth attention. 
The portal of the Jesuits' Church is very 
good. 

The Palace of the Electors and Bishops , 
a very handsome and extensive build¬ 
ing, now a barrack, stands partly 
upon the site of an enormous Roman 
edifice, only a fragment of which re¬ 
mains ; the larger portion having been 
demolished to make way for the episco¬ 
pal edifice, erected in 1614. This co¬ 
lossal fragment has been included in the 
palace, and goes with the vulgar by the 
name of the Heathen’s Toicer ( Heiden - 

[n. g.] 


thurm). It was probably the * Basilica 
or imperial hall attached to the Palace, 
the semicircular termination or apse at 
the E. end having been the tribunal; 
and the whole perhaps at one time 
turned into a -church ; as was the case 
• with similar halls in Rome. Be this 
as it may, the proportions of this 
Roman edifice, whose walls are more 
than 90 ft. high and 10 ft. thick, give 
a very good idea of the dimensions of 
the whole when entire. It is at the 
same time a masterpiece of architecture; 
as the bricks and tiles of which it is 
wholly composed remain to this day 
perfect and compact, and the walls, 
after the lapse of ages, are without a 
crack. King Frederick William IV, 
caused it to be cleared out and restored, 
and consecrated as a Protestant ch., 
1856. Additional interest attaches to 
these old walls, if we consider them as 
the favourite residence of Constantine, 
and that out of them issued 'the de¬ 
crees which governed at the same time 
Rome, Constantinople, and Britain. 

In front of this building extends an 
open space of ground, now used for drill¬ 
ing troops; at its further extremity stand 
the shattered remains of the *Baths, 
Thermae ( Biider-Palast ). They were 
long included in the S.E. angle of 
the fortifications of the town, and 
were half-buried in the earth; so 
that the windows on the first story, 
being on a level with the ground, 
served as an entrance into the town, 
and were barbarously broken away at 
the sides, in order to admit the market- 
carts of the peasantry : from this the 
building got the name of the White 
Gate. Under the direction of the 
Prussian government these ruins have 
been opened out and the thorough¬ 
fare stopped. They resemble, on a 
small scale, the Thermae of Caracalla 
and Domitian at Rome. Vaulted room s, 
reservoirs, remains of a hypocaust, 
sudatorium, earthen pipes, and channels 
for the passage of hot as well as cold 
water, have been brought to light, and 
explain the original destination of the 
building. The massiveness of the well- 
turned arches, and the thickness of the 
walls, will excite admiration at the skill 
of the builders who raised them, and 

P 








314 ROUTE 41. —TREVESi AMPHITHEATRE* BLACK GATE. Sect. IV. 


surprise at the violence which has 
reduced them to so utter a state of 
dilapidation. 

Through a wicket in the town walls 
opening at the baths you may walk 
directly to the *Roman Amphitheatre , 
about \ m. to the E. of the baths, out¬ 
side the walls, on the road to Ole- 
wig. It comes unexpectedly into 
sight, being scooped out of the side 
of the Marsberg, a hill covered with 
vineyards, which but a few years ago 
extended over the arena itself. The 
Prussian Government purchased the 
ground, and cleared away the earth 
which covered it to the depth of 20 
ft. It is interesting in an historical 
as well as an antiquarian point of 
view, as it was upon this spot that 
Constantine entertained his subjects 
with a spectacle which he called Frank¬ 
ish sports (Ludi Francici), and which 
consisted in exposing many thousand 
unarmed Frankish prisoners to he torn 
in pieces by wild beasts. He twice 
exhibited these diversions (a. d. 306 
and 313), and the fawning chroniclers 
of the time have not scrupled to call it 
a magnificent sight, “magnificum spec- 
taculum,—famosa supplicia.” So great 
was the number of victims, that the 
savage beasts desisted of their own ac¬ 
cord from their work of destruction, 
and left many alive, fatigued with 
slaughtering. Those who survived were 
made to fight as gladiators against one 
another; but they are said to have 
spoilt the amusementof the hard-hearted 
spectators, by voluntarily falling on 
each other’s swords, instead of contend¬ 
ing for life. The arena itself, excavated 
out of the solid rock, and carefully le¬ 
velled, is 234 ft. long, and 155 broad: 
deep channels for water rim round and 
through the centre : they were supplied 
by an aqueduct from the stream of the 
Ruwer. Horns, tusks, and hones of 
wild animals have been discovered in 
digging, and one or two cave-like vaults 
in the side walls were, it is supposed, 
the dens in which they were confined 
previously to exhibition. This Amphi¬ 
theatre, capable of holding about 53,000 
persons, was of humble pretensions 
in comparison with those of Nismes, 
Yerona, or the Coliseum, as, instead of 


being surrounded by several ranges of 
vaulted arcades of masomy, the sloping 
banks of earth, thrown up in excavating 
the arena, served to support the seats for 
the spectators. All traces of these have 
disappeared. The stones were probably 
used for building houses, as the amphi¬ 
theatre was long regarded no otherwise 
than as a quarry. Archways of solid 
masonry flanked by towers (no part of 
which now remain) formed the main 
entrances to the arena at the N. and 
S.E. extremity ; in addition to which, 
2 vaulted passages (vomitoria), bored 
through the hill, led into the arena 
from the side of Treves, and still remain 
in tolerable preservation. One of them 
has been converted into a cellar, and 
contains the wine which grows imme¬ 
diately over it. It is commonly called the 
Kaiserkeller (Caesar’s cellar), because it 
is supposed to have led to the Roman 
Emperor’s private box. The other is 
not yet cleared out. The Roman Aque¬ 
duct, which conveyed water to Treves 
from the Ruwer, still exists in those 
places where it passed under ground; 
it was 3 or 4 ft. broad, and nearly 6 ft. 
high, The part which was supported 
upon pillars across the valleys had en¬ 
tirely disappeared. 

The **Black Gate, Porta Nigra 
(Schwarzes Thor), called also Porta 
Martis, is the most interesting monu* 
ment of antiquity in Treves ; and has 
all the massive simplicity of the Roman 
style. Its front is decorated with rows 
of Tuscan columns, its lower story is 
very massive, and it was probably the 
entrance gate on the N. line of the 
city wall. Neither its age nor use 
has been satisfactorily ascertained, hut 
it is reputed (with much probability) 
to have been built in the days of Con¬ 
stantine the Great, between 314 and 
322. Ivugler, indeed, regards it as a 
work of the Franks, dating not from 
classic times, hut from the middle 
ages. 

Some have fixed the date of the 
building prior to the arrival of the Ro¬ 
mans, and have called it the Forum, 
Capitol, or Council-house, of the Bel- 
gae; hut the style of architecture favours 
the belief that it was a work of the 
Lower Empire. 




j Wien. Pfus. 


315 


ROUTE 41 .- —TREVES. BRIDGE. ABBEYS. 


In the 11th cent, an anchorite named 
Simeon of Syracuse, who had been a 
monk in the convent of Mount Sinai, 
on his return from the Holy Land 
posted himself on the top of the build¬ 
ing, in imitation of his namesake 
Simeon the Stylite. His ascetic and 
eccentric life gained for him the repu¬ 
tation of sanctity ; and in consequence 
he was enrolled in the calendar. Not 
long after his death the building was 
consecrated and dedicated to St. Simeon 
by Archbp. Poppo. To fit it for the 
service of religion, he added a semi¬ 
circular apsis to one end, which still 
remains a curious specimen of architec¬ 
ture, and formed 3 churches in it, one 
above the other, in which service was 
regularly performed down to the begin¬ 
ning of the present century. Like most 
ancient structures, the lower part of it, 
as far as the tops of the gateways, had 
become buried beneath earth and rub¬ 
bish, so that the entrance to it was by 
a long flight of steps, leading to the 
first floor. In this state Napoleon found 
it on his arrival at Treves. It is in¬ 
sinuated that a want of ammunition, as 
much as a taste for art, induced him to 
free the building from its incumbrances, 
as he went no further than tearing off 
the thick lead from the roof, which he 
melted into bullets. The work of im¬ 
provement has been executed by the 
Prussian Government; the building has 
been divested of its ecclesiastical cha¬ 
racter, and restored, as far as possible, 
to its original condition, the earth 
having been cleared from its base. It 
exhibits various marks of the dilapida¬ 
tions of barbarous ages and people. 
The masonry, of vast blocks ’ of sand¬ 
stone, averaging 4 or 5 ft., but in some 
instances 8 or 9 ft. long, rough on the 
outside, was originally so neatly fitted 
together, without the aid of cement, 
that the joints of the stones could 
scarcely be discerned; but they have 
been chipped and mutilated at their 
angles, in order to extract the metal 
clamps which united them, and now 
seem to hang together by their comers. 
The interior serves to hold a few shat¬ 
tered fragments of antiquity, of no 
great interest, dug up in the neighbour¬ 
hood: the most curious pieces are, a 


bas-relief of gladiators found in the 
amphitheatre, a mermaid with 2 tails, 
several earthenware pipes from the 
baths, and 2 Poman milestones from 
Bitburg. 

Besides the Poman remains already 
enumerated, there is within the town 
(in the Dietrichs Strasse, not far from 
the Pothes Haus), a Tower or Propug- 
naculum, in an excellent state of pre¬ 
servation. 

The Bridge over the Moselle is most 
probably the oldest Poman monument 
in Treves, and founded in the time of 
Augustus ; it is mentioned by Tacitus, 
and the date of its construction has 
been fixed by a learned antiquary 
about 28 years n.C. It originally stood 
near the middle of the town, which 
has gradually dwindled away till it 
has left the bridge at one extremity. 
Having resisted the storms of barbaric 
invasion, and the wild times of the 
middle ages, it was blown up by the 
French during the wars of Louis XIV.! 
In consequence, the only ancient parts 
remaining are the piers of large stones, 
brought from the lava quarries ’at Men- 
dig, near the lake of Laach. Many 
single blocks are from 6 to 9 ft. long, 
3 broad and 3 thick. 

There were anciently 4 abbeys at 
Treves, celebrated for their riches and 
extent all over Germany; but of their 
wealth nothing now remains, and even 
the original edifices, destroyed by fires 
and violence, are replaced by modern 
structures. They are — St. Matthias, 
about a mile above the town, now con¬ 
verted into a school. The ch. (partly 
ancient) is actually visited by many 
thousand pilgrims. St. Maximin , at one 
time perhaps the richest Benedictine 
monastery in Germany, is now used 
as a barrack ; it occupies the site of a 
palace of Constantine, but possesses no 
other interest. St. Martin's on the 
Moselle is a china manufactory. St. 
Mary of the Four Martyrs , below the 
town, stands where the residence of the 
Poman Prefect stood, and where 4 
soldiers of the Theban legion suffered 
martyrdom, according to the tradition. 

In the Gymnasiums Gebdude (formerly 
a University, now removed) is the 
Town Library of 94,000 vols., contain- 

p 2 






3 1 6 


Sect. IV. 


ROUTE 41. —TREVES. IGEL. 


mg many literary curiosities, the chief 
of them being the Codex Aureus , a MS. 
of the four Gospels written in golden 
letters, formerly in the abbey of St. 
Maximin, to which it was given by 
Ada, sister of Charlemagne. It is 
bound in plates of silver gilt, on which 
are embossed figures in high relief, 
interspersed with precious stones; and 
in the centre is a splendid cameo, said 
to represent Augustus and his family. 
There is also here Archbishop Egbert’s 
copy of the Gospels, as well as other 
MSS., and many printed books of great 
value ; among them Gutemberg’s first 
Bible, 1450. There is also a large col¬ 
lection of ancient coins and medals, and 
Roman remains, principally found at 
Treves. 

The Fathers of the Church , St. Am¬ 
brose was bom here, and St. Jerome 
studied here. 

The Environs abound in delightful 
points of excursion, fine views, &c. 

a. Pallien , a village on the 1. bank of 
the Moselle, at the mouth of a ravine 
up which the road to Aix-la-Chapelle is 
carried, is worth visiting on account of 
the picturesque character of the rocky 
dell, of the water-mills enclosed be¬ 
tween its cliffs, and of its bridge of a 
single arch thrown over the ravine 
by Napoleon. (Rte. 43.) It is ap¬ 
proached from the suburb of Zur- 
lauben, at the lower end of Treves, by 
a ferry across the Moselle; and §m. 
beyond, on the height, stands a Cafe, 
much resorted to in summer—Schnei¬ 
ders Hof commanding a good general 
view of the valley of the Moselle and 
of the town of Treves. The garden 
and grounds of Prince Henry beyond 
the Moselle, reached by the ferry, 
should by all means be visited. The 
walks and views are charming. On 
the high bank between the bridge and 
Pallien rises a tower, crowned by a 
statue of the Virgin ; a good point of 
view. 

v. Igel, a small village, with an inn, 
about 6 m. from Treves, on the high 
road to Luxemburg, and upon the an¬ 
cient Roman highway, is particularly 
deserving of a visit from all who take 
an interest in remains of antiquity, on 
account of the Igel Saule (monument of 


Igel), a beautiful Roman structure, 
standing in the midst of it, close to the 
road. It is a four-sided obelisk of sand¬ 
stone, more than 70 ft. high, bearing 
carvings, inscriptions, and bas-reliefs, 
but so mutilated in parts, that neither 
its age nor destination has yet been 
precisely ascertained. 4 or 5 different 
explanations have been given of it, 
and at least as many readings of the 
inscriptions by the antiquaries. One 
states it to have been raised to com¬ 
memorate the marriage of Constantine 
and Helena; another, that it records 
the birth of Caligula., tracing some re¬ 
semblance between his name and that 
of the place, Igel. A third considers 
it to allude to the apotheosis of some 
person of imperial rank. The plain 
matter of fact seems to be, that it was 
set up by two brothers named Secundi- 
nus ; partly as a funeral monument to 
their deceased relatives ; partly to cele¬ 
brate their sister’s marriage, which is 
represented on one of the bas-reliefs by 
the figures of a man and woman joining 
hands. The Secundini were a rich and 
powerful family, who, it appears from 
the inscription, in addition to other 
offices, held those of postmaster and 
chief of the commissariat, and supplied 
the Roman army with food, accoutre¬ 
ments, and carriages, which is further 
denoted by the figure of a chariot, filled 
with armour, &c., the subject of an¬ 
other bas-relief. From the style of the 
architecture and carvings, the monu¬ 
ment has been referred to the time of 
the Antonines: some imagine it to be¬ 
long to the era of Constantine. It has 
excellence as a work of art, and as a 
successful example of the combination 
of monumental architecture with sculp¬ 
tural decoration; as a whole, its pre¬ 
servation is also remarkable. 

Schncllposts daily from Treves to 
Coblenz in 14 hours; to Cologne; to 
Berncastel and Kreutznach; to Aix-la- 
Chapelle in 19 hrs.,(Rte. 43). 

Steamboats on the Moselle during 
summer; 4 or 5 times a-week between 
Treves and Coblenz (Rte. 42.). 

Pail ways to Luxemburg and Namur; 
to Spa; to Saarbriicken, Kreutznach, 
and Bingen (Rte. 100 a). Station on 
1. bank of the Moselle. 



Ehen. Prus. rte, 42, —the moselle, treves to coblenz. 317 


ROUTE 42. 

TIIE MOSELLE.—FROM TREVES TO 
COBLENZ. 

Distance, about 150 Eng. m. :—more 
than double that of the land journey, 
owing- to the windings of the river. 
Steamers 4 or 5 times a-week :— up to 
Treves in 1 £ day, starting from Coblenz 
at 6 a.m. for Berncastel or Trarbach, 
and proceeding on the following day to 
Treves; down in 12 or 15 hrs., starting 
from Treves at 5 a.m. When the river 
is low, which frequently happens in 
summer, the steamers are delayed or 
stopped altogether, and the traveller 
must then resort to row-boats , to cross or 
drop down the river for short distances. 

The navigation of the river after dark 
is rendered impassable by the stone 
groins built into it to regulate its 
course. If the steamer should be de¬ 
layed by shallow water caused by 
drought, by fogs or other cause, pas¬ 
sengers are liable to be turned out at 
nightfall. You may thus chance to 
be set adrift, far from your destina¬ 
tion, in the rain and the dark, at a 
spot where no proper night accommo¬ 
dation is attainable, nor even carriages 
to enable you to pursue your journey 
by land. 

3 or 4 days may be very agreeably 
spent on the banks of the Moselle. This 
river offers a new and pleasing route to 
travellers visiting the Rhine, who have 
hitherto been content to go and return 
by Cologne, thus retracing their steps 
over ground they have seen before. The 
Moselle is equally accessible; by taking 
it, they will add variety to their jour¬ 
ney, and make a better use of their time. 

Some of the finest scenery on the 
Moselle may be explored in 2 days, from 
Coblenz, thus : Take the steamer up to 
Alf; proceed thence in a post-chaise to 
the Baths of Bertrich, 3 m. off {Inn: 
Post); explore the walks to the Falkcn- 
lei,&c., and return to Alf to sleep. Next 
day ascend the hill called Prinzenskopf- 
chen, then take the descending steamer 
and return to Coblenz, or, if time will 
allow, stop at Carden, and walk or drive 
to Schloss Elz, returning to Carden to 


sleep. Next morning hire a row-boat 
to Aiken, and walk thence in 2 h. up a 
side valley to the interesting castle of 
Ehrenburg, returning in time for the . 
steamer to Coblenz, or proceeding 
thither by the carriage road down the 
rt. bank of the Moselle. 

In order fully to appreciate the 
beauties of the Moselle, it is necessary 
to land at certain points indicated in the 
following route, and viow it from its 
high banks. 

The Pedestrian alone can reach by 
by-paths and cross-roads, not passable 
for carriages, the finest points of view ; 
at one time creeping along the margin 
of the river, at another surveying it 
from the heights above. In every 
village he may find a boat in which he 
may embark when tired, and may thus 
shift about from one side of the river 
to the other. By crossing the narrow 
necks of land he may often save 6 
or 8 miles, and reach in £ hour a 
spot that a boat would require 3 or 4 
to arrive at. In making these short 
cuts, however, he may sometimes miss 
fine scenes on the river. 

The Inns upon the Moselle, except at 
Alf (Post), will by no means satisfy fasti¬ 
dious travellers. The usual Charges seen 
and confirmed annually by the magis¬ 
trates, are, for dinner 15 S. gr., tea or 
coffee 5, supper 10, a bottle of wine 
from 5 S. gr. to 1 Th., a bed 8 to 15 
S. gr., bottle of Seltzer water 5 S. gr. 

Good Moselle wine is hardly to be got 
in the inns, or elsewhere on the 
river than at the wine-merchants’ in 
Coblenz. 

The banks of the Moselle, though on 
the whole inferior in beauty to those 
of the Rhine, by no means present a 
repetition of the same kind of scenery. 
It is generally of a less wild and barren 
character; instead of black bare ravines 
and abrupt precipices, it is bordered by 
round and undulating hills, covered not 
merely with vines, but often clothed 
in rich woods, such as the Rhine can¬ 
not boast of. It is much enlivened 
with picturesque towns and villages, 
of which there are more than 100 be¬ 
tween Coblenz and Treves, while ruins 
of old castles, watch-towers, and Gothic 
church steeples are not wanting to give 








318 


ROUTE 42. —THE MOSELLE. TRARBACH. 


Sect. IV. 


a religious or romantic tone to the 
landscape. The Moselle is particularly 
remarkable for its very complicated 
windings, which in several parts of its 
course form projecting promontories, 
almost isolated by the river. Some of 
the side valleys, too, which merge into 
the Moselle, are in the highest degree 
picturesque; and the view of the ex¬ 
traordinary windings of the river, from 
the heights above it, is as singular 
as it is enchanting. The Moselle is 
not deficient in classical associations : 
it is even the subject of a poem by 
Ausonius, written probably during his 
residence at Treves ; and traces of the 
Romans may be discovered in almost 
every village along its hanks, if not 
above ground, at least wherever the soil 
is turned by the spade. 

The first part of the voyage from 
Treves to Berncastel presents nothing 
of great interest: and it is not worth 
while to enumerate names of unimport¬ 
ant villages. 

1. The tall chimneys in the recess 
of a valley, and the wreaths of smoke 
proceeding therefrom, proclaim the iron¬ 
works of Quint. 

rt. Neumagen is the Roman No- 
viomagus, where Constantine had a 
palace, the “ inclyta castra Constan- 
tini ” of Ausonius, of which few frag¬ 
ments now remain. The Church was 
built 1190, partly with the materials of 
the Roman palace. (Clement’s Inn.) 

1. Piesport (Pisonis Porta) : Ham’s 
Inn. One of the most famous vine¬ 
yards on the Moselle. 

1. Opposite Dusemond is another 
vineyard, producing the capital wine 
called Brauneberger. 

rt. Miihlheim. Here the scenery 
improves in beauty. 

rt. Berncastel ( Inn: *Drei Ivonige 
(Gassen) good fare—try the “ Doc¬ 
tor’s” wine), a dirty town of 2000 
Inhab., on the way from Bingen 
to Treves (Rte. 46), picturesquely si¬ 
tuated under a ruined castle (Landshnt) 
perched on a ledge of the Hundsriick 
mountains, which here approach close 
to the Moselle. There is a ferry here. 

Diligence to Treves in 6 hrs. Tra¬ 
vellers tired of a boat should cross the 
hills to Trarhach, a walk of 2 hrs. (5 m. 


—by water 15), stony path and steep 
ascent at first, from Berncastel. 

1. Directly opposite Berncastel lies 
Cus. The Hospital was founded by 
Cardinal Cusanus, who was horn here, 
the son of a poor fisherman, and raised 
himself to that dignity by his talents. 
Attached to it is a Gothic chapel con¬ 
taining the very fine monument of John 
of Neuberg (1569). The rt. bank of 
the Moselle is here draped with vine¬ 
yards from top to bottom, (rt.) A little 
below Graach is the Priory of Mar- 
tinshof, now secularized. 

rt. Zeltingen.—De Wilde’s Inn , toler¬ 
able. This may he said to be the 
centre of the wine district of the 
Moselle, in which all the best sorts are 
produced. 

1. Uerzig. (Post.) Good road to 
Wittlich 6 m. Below this village, in 
the face of a tall red cliff called Mi- 
chaelslei, a castellated wall is visible. It 
covers the mouth of a cave which once 
served to harbour a hand of robber- 
knights, and afterwards to shelter a 
hermit. It was accessible only by 
means of high ladders. 

rt. Trarhach (the derivation of the 
name, from “ Thronus Baechi,” is pro¬ 
bably fanciful).— Inns: not good. The 
best red wine of the Moselle may 
he had here. The situation of this 
most dirty little town, of 1300 Inhab., 
is very beautiful, hut it has lost much 
of its picturesqueness since the fire of 
1857; it lies in the mouth of a 
side valley, opening upon the Moselle: 
but it is not other-wise interesting, 
and its narrow and dirty streets offer 
no temptation to penetrate within its 
gates. A neat Townhall, in modem 
Gothic style, has been built. The 
castle above it, called Grdjinburg , was 
one of the strongest between Treves and 
Coblenz, commanding entirely the pas¬ 
sage of the Moselle. It was the family 
residence of the noble Counts of Spon- 
heim, and was built in the 14th cent. 
(1338) with an Archbishop’s ran¬ 
som. A long and deadly feud had 
existed between the Archbishops of 
Treves and the Counts of Sponheim, 
when, in 1325, the death of Count 
Henry held out to the reigning Arch¬ 
bishop, Baldwin, the prospect of enrich? 










Rhen . Prus. 


ROUTE 42. —THE MOSELLE. TRABEN. ALF. 


319 


ing himself at the expense of the 
widowed Countess; taking advantage, 
therefore, of her unprotected position, 
he made inroads into her domain, plun¬ 
dering her subjects, and laying waste 
her lands. The Countess Loretta, how¬ 
ever, was gifted with a manly spirit, 
and was not a person to submit tamely 
to such insults and injury : so, calling 
together her vassals, she boldly ex¬ 
pelled the intruders with loss and 
disgrace; equally to the surprise and 
indignation of Baldwin, who little 
expected such opposition from a female. 
The very same year, as the bishop was 
quietly and unsuspectingly sailing down 
the Moselle to Coblenz, with a small 
retinue, his barge was suddenly arrested 
nearly abreast of the Castle of Starken- 
burg, by a chain stretched across the 
river below the surface; and before he 
had time to recover from his surprise, 
armed boats put off from the shore, and 
he was led a prisoner into the Castle of 
the Countess. She treated her perse¬ 
cutor with courtesy, but kept him fast 
within her walls until he agreed to 
abandon a fort which he had begun to 
build on her territory, and paid down a 
large ransom. 

The finest scenery of the Moselle lies 
between Trarbac-h and Cobem. 

1. Traben.— Inn , II. Claus, unpre¬ 
tending; boat to and from steamer. Tra¬ 
ben, it is said, comes from Lat. Taberna. 
Opposite Trarbach rises a high hill, con¬ 
verted into a promontory by the wind¬ 
ings of the Moselle. On the summit of 
it Vauban constructed for Louis XIV. 
(1681), in the time of peace, and 
upon German territory, a strong for¬ 
tress, completely commanding the river 
up and down. The pretext for this 
proceeding was the unjust claim urged 
by Louis to the domains of the Counts 
of Sponheim. After 8000 men had been 
employed in constructing it, and an ex¬ 
penditure of many millions of francs 
had been incurred, it was razed to the 
ground, in conformity with the treaty 
of Ryswick, 16 years after it was built, 
and a few broken walls and shattered 
casemates alone mark the site of Fort 
Montrogal. The view from it is grand. 

rt. Starkenburg, a village on an emi¬ 
nence, which once bore a castle of the 


same name, belonging to the Counts of 
Sponheim, and mentioned above. Its 
outworks extended down to the water¬ 
side, and some towers and walls still 
remain. 

rt. Enkirch, a village of 2000 Inhab.; 
near it are fragments of shafts of 
pillars, which go by the name of the 
Temple, and are perhaps Roman. 

On approaching (rt.) the village of 
Piinderieh, the ruins of (1.) Marienburg , 
alternately a nunnery and a fortress, 
appear in sight; and from their posi¬ 
tion, on the summit of a high dorsal 
ridge, which the Moselle by its wind¬ 
ings converts into a promontory, remain 
long in view. The distance to Alf, 
from (1.) the village of Reil, near which 
a steep footpath (Rothenpfad, from the 
red colour of the soil) strikes upwards 
through the vineyards across the Isth¬ 
mus, is under 3 m.; by the winding 
Moselle it is 12 m.; a voyage in ascend¬ 
ing, of 2 hrs. ; in descending, of 1 hr. 
Travellers intending to stop at Alf may 
land here, opposite Piinderieh, and 
walk across the neck to Marienburg 
and Alf, which may be done in an hour, 
with tolerable certainty of catching the 
steamer at Alf. **The view from the 
eminence a little to the W. of Marien¬ 
burg, called Prinzenskopfchen , is the 
most surprising and pleasing that the 
whole course of the Moselle presents. 
It is a little like that from Symon’s Yat 
on the Wye, but is on a much grander 
scale. Owing to the excessive sinu¬ 
osities of the river, 4 different reaches 
appear in view at once, radiating as it 
were from the foot of the rock on which 
you stand. A waving amphitheatre of 
hills, covered with dark forest, occupies 
the horizon, and nearer at hand vine- 
clad slopes, villages at the water-side, 
and old castles, with the Fort Arras on 
the Issbach, to the W., are the acces¬ 
sories of this beautiful panorama. 
There is a little inn within the ruins of 
Marienburg, where you may breakfast 
or dine. 

rt. Zell (Melchior’s Inn ) is a little 
town of 1800 Inhab. opposite the point 
of the promontory on which Marien¬ 
burg stands, overlooked by a guardian 
watch-tower. 

1. Alf (Inns Zum Bade Bertrich 









320 


ROUTE 42 . —THE MOSELLE. COCHEM. CARDEN. 


Sect. IV. 


(Mentjes) ;—Theisens—good fishing), 
on the Moselle, ‘is a village prettily- 
situated at the mouth of the winding 
valley of the Issbach; above it stands 
the church, and farther up the valley- 
rises the picturesque hill fort of Arras , 
which stood out for a long time, in 
1138, against Adalbert, Archbishop of 
Troves, who swore not to shave till 
ho had taken it, and kept his word. 
Under Arras, 2 m. up the valley, are 
the extensive iron forges and fur¬ 
naces of M. Remy, constructed accord- 
to the English method. The iron is 
brought from Bendorf on the Rhine, 
the coal from the mines of Saarbruck. 
About 6 m. up this sylvan valley are 
the retired * Baths of Bertrich (Rte. 
41); an excellent carriage road leads 
to them. There are several Inns, 
where carriages are kept. No one 
should quit Alf without enjoying the 
very extraordinary prospect from the 
Prinzenskopfchen near the Marienburg 
mentioned above—half an hour’s walk. 

Soon after leaving Alf there is a very 
remarkable echo. 

1. Bremm (Amelinger’s /nn), a wide 
and solitary spot, enclosed by huge 
dark hills. It is difficult to guess how 
the river finds its way out; indeed it 
has very much the appearance of the 
head of a lake. The steep slopes be¬ 
hind the village resemble somewhat 
the cliff of the Lurlei in boldness, but 
they are covered with vines to the very 
top. 

rt. On the pretty green meadow op¬ 
posite stood, until the time of the 
French Revolution, the nunnery of 
Stuben; the massive wall of a ruined 
chapel, pierced with pointed windows, 
still remains. 

1. There is a path from the village of 
Eller over the hills to Cochem, only 
4 m. long. The windings of the river 
between these two places cannot be less 
than 12 m., but those who avail them¬ 
selves of this short cut will lose some 
of the prettiest scenery on the river. 

1. Ediger is charmingly situated. 

1. Senhals. Little else than vines 
visible hereabouts, rt. Senheim at a 
little distance from the river. 

rt. Beilstein. Inn execrable. Tra¬ 
vellers should on no account think of 


stopping here. One of the most pic¬ 
turesque ruined castles on the Moselle, 
surmounted by a square donjon-keep, 
overlooks Beilstein. It belonged to the 
Electors of Treves, who deputed their 
noble vassals, the Metternichs—Win- 
neburgs, to hold it for them. The 
small village nestles at the foot of tho 
rock on which it stands. 

1. Cochem. — Inns: Kehrer’s; II. de 
1’ Union. The distant view of this ancient 
town of 2500 Inhab., guarded as it were 
by the 2 picturesque castles aloft upon 
the hills behind, is most romantic and 
attractive. But let the stranger bo 
satisfied with admiring it at a distance, 
since, within, it surpasses in the filth 
and closeness of its streets all other 
towns on the Moselle. The Castle at 
the upper end was an imperial fortress ; 
in 1689 it held out, together with the 
town, for a long time against the forces 
of Louis XIV., but being at last, after 
4 separate assaults, taken by storm, the 
greater portion of the garrison, consist¬ 
ing of 1600 Brandenburgers, and many 
of the citizens, were inhumanly put to 
the sword, and the houses and castle 
burnt. This atrocious act was ordered 
by the French Marshal Boufflers, and 
executed by his subordinate officer, M. 
de Grignan, the son-in-law of Madame 
de Sdvigne. 

The lower castle of Winneburg is lost 
from view until you draw close to the 
town, being situated some way up the 
glen of the Endertbach. It is the most 
ancient family seat of the Metternichs; 
the head of the house at present being 
son of the Austrian Prime Minister, 
who repaired it and fitted it up. 

The large building seen above the 
spire of the church, near the lower end 
of the town of Cochem, was originally a 
Capuchin convent, and is now a school. 

1. Clotten, a small village, with a 
church on an eminence, in the gap of 
a valley overlooked by a ruined castle. 
Monotonous hills intervene for a con¬ 
siderable distance between Clotten and 

rt. Treis, situated within a little 
amphitheatre of hills, from which, at a 
short distance from the river, 2 castles 
look down: one of them, Wildburg, was 
won in hard fight by an Archbishop of 
Treves, in the 12th cent. An elegant 
















Men. Prussia, rte. 42. —the moselle, the elz. moselkern. 321 


modern ehurch has been erected at 
Treis. 

1. Carden (Brauer’s Imi. N.B. No 
good inn between this and Coblenz) 
is a picturesque old village, in one 
of the most lovely situations on the 
Moselle. The Church , conspicuous 
with its 3 towers, was built in the 
12th cent., in honour of St. Castor, 
whose body was buried here, and after¬ 
wards removed to Coblenz. The ex¬ 
terior and E. end are in the Roman¬ 
esque style of architecture. The Clois¬ 
ters are worth notice. Within, there is 
a curious antique font, and a represen¬ 
tation of the Entombment; the figures 
are of stone, as large as life. At the 
lower end of the town, by the water¬ 
side, stands the Old Post-house, a pic¬ 
turesque castellated building, with pro¬ 
jecting turrets, surrounded by a red 
fringe-like ornament, and surmounted 
by peaked roofs; it bears the date 1562. 
Behind it is a Romanesque building, 
of the 12th or 13th cent., free from 
alterations and interpolations, which 
has been unaccountably neglected by 
draughtsmen and antiquaries. It is 
said to have been a tithe-barn of the 
Archbp. of Treves. 

[Schloss Elz. N.B. — No Inn ; 
take provisions. A carriage road 
(l£ hr.'s drive) runs from Carden to 
within a mile of the very interesting 
old * Castle of Elz , the beau-ideal of a 
feudal fortress of the middle ages; by 
the village of 

1. Mtiden, from which it is not more 
than 2 m. distant. It ascends the hill, 
behind the village ; then, through 
fields and orchards, reaches a pretty 
green meadow, from which the winding 
vale of the Elz is visible, and out of 
which peer the singular peaked turrets 
of its castle. 

The little stream of the Elz, remark¬ 
able for its excessive windings, almost 
encircles the tall bold rock on which the 
castle stands. A narrow isthmus of 
rock prevents its being an island, but 
this has been cut through, and over the 
ditch thus formed a bridge is thrown, 
forming the only approach. The banks 
of the river are thickly grown over with 
trees and brushwood; and a second and 
rival castle, rising opposite to Schloss 


[ Elz, and within bow-shot of it, contri¬ 
butes to the beauty of this romantic 
valley. The Castle of Elz is a singu¬ 
larly irregular building, or group of 
buildings, adapted to the form of the 
rock on which it stands. The whole 
pile rises so abruptly from the preci¬ 
pitous sides of the rock that its pedestal 
appears scarcely large enough to hold 
it. The path leading up to the main 
| entrance is cut in the rock, and is steep 
and slippery. It is the cradle of one of 
the most ancient and noble families in 
this part of Germany, and is an almost 
solitary example of a feudal residence 
spared by fire, war, and time, and re¬ 
maining in nearly the same condition 
that it was 2 or 3 centuries ago. It 
has been repaired, and is inhabited. 

; The interior is a labyrinth of passages, 
turret-stairs, and chambers, many of 
which are of irregular shapes. Many 
of the apartments are hung round 
with family portraits. There are 
ornamented fireplaces (not stoves), and 
some rooms are paved with monastic- 
looking tiles, with patterns impressed, 
not coloured. In one room there are 
| a few pieces of armour, and one or two 
morsels of painted glass. The stream 
of the Elz is seen from the pro¬ 
jecting turrets, flowing in its snake¬ 
like course in the depth of the wooded 
gorge 80 or 100 ft. below. The rival 
castle before alluded to, Trutz-Elz , on 
the opposite rock, was built to defy 
the Lords of Elz, by Baldwin Bishop 
of Treves, who besieged them for many 
months, and cutting off, by this counter 
castle, the approaches to their strong¬ 
hold, at length compelled them to sur- 
J render. They afterwards held this 
castle also as a fief from the Bishop, 

1 whose vassals they became. 

About 3 m. higher Tip the valley 
stands another castle, Schloss Pyrmont , 
burnt by the Swedes in 1641 ; and neat 
it is a cascade. A good carriage-road 
leads to Coblenz (Rte. 41) by Munster- 
Maifeld. 

The Elz falls into the Moselle at 
Moselkern, about 4 m. below the Castle, 
but the path down the picturesque val¬ 
ley is very bad, fording the stream, or 
crossing it on stepping stones, several 
times in that short distance.] 

p 3 









322 ROUTE 42. —THE MOSELLE. 

1. Moselkern (7nn, Anker), a village 
at the mouth of the picturesque vale of 
Elz. 

1. The Castle of Bischofsstein was a 
stronghold belonging to the Archbishops 
of Treves. Its tall cylindrical donjon 
tower is girt round with a white streak, 
and a ruined chapel adjoins it. It was 
built 1270. 

1. Hatzenport. Moritz’s Inn. 

rt. Brodenbach stands near the mouth 
of the Ehrenbach. The ravine out of 
which it issues should by all means he 
explored. At first gloomy and dark, it 
in a short while opens out, and discloses 
a lovely valley with green meadows, 
vineyards, and water-mills closed up in 
front by a rocky height, on the summit 
of which, only 2 m. distant from the 
Moselle, stands the *castle of Ehrenberg , 
towering above the tree tops. It is a 
splendid monument of old times, still in 
a tolerable state of preservation; as it 
owes its decay to time and neglect, not 
to violence. It may be said to surpass 
in beauty any individual castle on the 
Rhine, and is well worth visiting. It 
now belongs to the v. Stein family. 
There is a way over the hills from 
Ehrenberg to Boppart, on the Ithine, 
9 m., hut a guide will be needed. 

rt. Aiken, an ancient town, connected 
by achain of towers with Schloss Thurand , 
a picturesque castle on the height 
above. It has two circular keeps, and 
the green ivy creeps along its walls. 
It was built in 1209, and was held in 
1246 by a robber knight, the Pfalzgrave 
Zorn. Having committed depredations 
in the territory of his neighbours, the 
Archbishops of Treves and Cologne, he 
was besieged for 2 years by their com¬ 
bined forces, who, during that time, 
emptied 3000 butts of wine. The 
garrison, having consumed all their 
provisions, surrendered the castle ; but 
Zorn cut his way through the enemy. 

1. The village of Catenes is said to 
derive its name from a chain (catena) 
formerly stretched across the river at 
this point, to arrest boats and compel 
them to pay toll. 

1. Gondorf. The conspicuous build¬ 
ing at the upper end of this village, by 
the water-side, is the family mansion of 
the Counts von der Leyen, another of 


COBERN. DIEBELICH. Sect. IV. 

the oldest and most noble races on the 
Moselle; which numbers among its 
members many generals in the Imperial 
armies, and 3 Electors of Treves and 
Cologne. The building was repaired 
in 1814, and has since passed out of the 
possession of the Leyens. 

At the lower end of the village stands 
a gable-faced house, connected with a 
tall tower of defence, built 1350, and 
said to have belonged to the Knights 
Templars. 

A large quantity of potters’ and pipe 
clay, obtained from pits 3 m. off, at 
Dreschenich, is here embarked, and sent 
to Holland, to form pipes for the Dutch¬ 
men. It is quite white, and of good 
quality; it is dug out from beneath a 
bed of gravel. 

1. Cohern (Schwab’s Inn). The heights 
behind this little town are crowned by 2 
ruined castles—the lower, or Niederburg, 
and the Oberburg. Within the enclosure 
of the upper castle stands the very re¬ 
markable Chapel of St. Matthias. The 
way to it passes the new church, and the 
house of the pastor, who keeps the keys 
of the chapel, and will lend them to 
discreet persons. A steep footpath 
strikes up from a mill, through the 
vineyards, and behind the lower castle, 
which it leaves on the right. The view 
from the top is fine, and it takes about 
20 min. to reach it. St. Matthias's 
Chapel is an elegant little Gothic struc¬ 
ture, iu the form of a hexagon, sup¬ 
ported within upon 6 clusters of co¬ 
lumns, each formed of 5 detached 
marble pillars. The exact date of the 
building is unknown, but the style of 
the architecture is that of the first half 
of the 13th cent., and its foimders 
are supposed to have been Crusaders, 
who caused it to be erected on their 
return from the Holy Land. This may 
account for the somewhat Saracenic 
aspect of its interior. All the arches 
are rounded, except those which sup¬ 
port the central tower, which are pointed 
and slightly horse-shoed; the lower 
windows are in shape like the ace of 
clubs. The effect of the interior is ex¬ 
tremely light and graceful, and this 
chapel deserves to be visited by all who 
interest themselves in architecture. It 










Rhenish Prussia, rte. 43. —aik-la-chapelle to treves. 323 


has been repaired by the architect Las- 
saulx. 

rt. Diebelich (quasi Diabolich) is 
famous for witches, who fin the middle 
ages were believed to haunt peculiarly 
this spot, and to hold meetings for mid¬ 
night revelry on the top of a neigh¬ 
bouring mountain. At the end of the 
15th century, a bishop, who had written 
a book upon witchcraft, caused 25 per¬ 
sons to be burned here for that crime ! 
This is a pretty spot, surrounded by 
orchards and walnuts, with fine wooded 
banks opposite. 

1. Winningen is a Protestant village, 
though all around are Popish. A neat 
modern school-house faces the river. 

rt. Ley. At the breaking up of the 
frost in the Moselle in 1830 this village 
was buried nearly 30 feet deep in ice, 
which broke the timber framework of 
many of the houses, and entirely swept 
away several; overspreading all the 
lower vineyards. 

1. GUIs, distinguished by its modern 
twin spires, is surrounded by orchards, 
which furnish cherries and walnuts in 
large quantities for exportation to Hol¬ 
land. A very narrow and dangerous 
carriage-road has been completed along 
the rt. bank of the Moselle, from Mosel- 
weiss to Niederfell. When improved 
and extended farther upwards, it will 
become equally conducive to the con¬ 
venience of the tourist, and to the pros¬ 
perity of the valley. 

1. The spire of the Ch. of Metternich 
is seen above the trees. 

rt. Moselweiss, a small village sup¬ 
posed to be the Vicus Ambitianus of the 
Romans, and the spot where Agrippina 
gave birth to Caligula. The tower of 
the church is of great antiquity, and is 
mentioned in records of the year 1209. 
Above Moselweiss rise the fortifications 
of Fort Alexander, one of the outworks 
of Coblenz, situated between the Moselle 
and the Rhine. 

rt. Coulexz (Rte. 37). 


ROUTE 43. 

AIX-LA-CHAPELLE TO TREVES. 

20 Pruss. m. = 93 Eng. m. 

Schnellpost daily in 21 hrs. Jtly ., 
commenced, via Durenez and Zulpich, 
when finished will open the quickest 
way from Aix to Treves. The accom¬ 
modation for travellers is on a 
very low scale. The only tolerable 
sleeping quarters are at Prum, but they 
are indifferent. 

This excellent macadamised road was 
completed in 1836, by the Prussian 
Government, to open a communication 
along the Belgian frontier; its design 
seems rather military than commercial. 
It lies through a country wild aritl 
dreary in parts, in others very beau¬ 
tiful; in all most interesting to an 
English botanist, who will find in the 
wild heath between Treves and Mont- 
joie, and in the latter town itself, some 
of the rarest plants of his own country. 

The road on leaving Aix-la-Chapelle 
is carried under the Cologne railway, and 
past the picturesque fragment of aruincd 
castle, Schonforst, near which is a very 
large lime-tree. About 7 m. from Aix 
is the village of Corneli-Munster, with 
750 Inhab. The extensive remains of 
its ancient convent, founded 815, by 
Lewis the Pious, are turned into a cloth 
manufactory. 

2j Ivonigsberg. 

2\ Montjoie, a small town of 3000 
Inhab., on the Ro^r, manufactures 
much cloth. (Bauer’s Inn is the best.) 
Its fine and nearly perfect Castle was 
almost entirely pulled down 1836. 
There are slate-quarries outside the 
town. 

The village of Kaltenherberg (Cold 
Harbour), 1370 Inhab., lies at the foot of 














324 


ROUTE 43. —ROMAN HIGHWAY. BALESFELD. 


Sect. IV. 


the mountain range called Hohe Yeen 
(Fr. Hautes Fanges, The High Fen). 
Their highest summit is 2200 ft. above 
the sea: this is a wild and sterile dis¬ 
trict, abounding in bogs and marshes. 
The inhabitants are chiefly Walloons. 

Biitgenbach (/nn, Poste), a village 
of 500 souls. A cross road hence to 
Spa, by Malmedi (Rte. 44). 

This stage lies over a wild dreary 
track, part heath, part forest, which is 
burnt for charcoal, to 

2 Losheim, ( Inn: *Post), a small vil¬ 
lage. Its Church contains some relics : 
the cloth with which our Saviour girt 
himself and dried the apostles’ feet—a 
part of his winding-sheet—fragments of 
the skull of St. Cornelius !! Near this 
a good cross road, on the 1., leads from 
Losheim to Hillesheim, in the Eifel 
(Rte. 44). 

Hero begins the chain of hills called 
Schneifel, Schnee Eifel (Snow Eifel). 

2~ Priim — Inn , Goldner Stem; the 
best sleeping quarters between Aix and 
Treves, but indifferent.— D. G. Cheap 
and dirty. Bed, 15 S. gr.; tea, 8 S. 
gr.; breakfast, 8 S. gr. This small 
town lies at the S. extremity of the 
Schneifel, immediately beneath a beau¬ 
tifully wooded hill, and has 2100 Inliab. 

A portion of the old convent alone 
survives, and is now converted into a 
school. The church near it, in the Ita¬ 
lian style, and uninteresting, replaces 
the magnificent original church of the 
once famous Abbey Sancti Benedicti 
ad Pratum (whence the modern name 
Priim), of which no vestige now re¬ 
mains. In the burial-ground, outside 
the town, a stone cross is planted on the 
spot where the high altar stood. The 
walls of this edifice were pulled down 
to furnish materials for rebuilding the 
houses of the town after it had been 
destroyed by fire in 1769. The excur¬ 
sion to the Upper Eifel (Rte. 45) may 
be made from Priim. The distance to 
Gerolstein is about 12 m. The road is 
practicable only for light carriages. 

Hereabouts the modem road falls in 
with the great Roman highway from 
Treves to Cologne. It is proved, by an 
inscription found at Marmagen, that 
Agrippa was the director of this, the 
greatest work of the Romans in their 


Rhenish provinces. It was carried 
through a country still wild and un¬ 
peopled, but in their days as little trod¬ 
den as the backwoods of America are 
now. It appdars by the Roman Itiner¬ 
ary, that, besides numerous post-houses 
( 'mutationes, for changing horses), there 
were 6 mansiones along this line of road, 
serving at the same time as military 
posts, garrisoned with troops; as hotels, 
in which the emperors themselves were 
accommodated on their journeys; and as 
stations of relays of horses for couriers. 
The first of these was at Tolbiacum 
(Zulpich, the spot where Clovis and the 
Franks defeated the Alemanni), the last 
at Bosdce Yicus (Bitburg). All the 
stations seem to have been carefully 
supplied with water, judging from the 
remains of subterranean conduits or 
aqueducts which have been discovered 
along the line of the road. 

4£ m. beyond Priim is Schonecken, a 
small village of 1538 Inhab. The mined 
castle on a height originally belonged to 
the family of the Counts of Vianden. It 
was destroyed by the French in 1802. 

21 Balesfeld. Between this and Bit¬ 
burg the road does not pass a single 
village. The country is a tract of high 
land, with a rough climate and a barren 
soil, but abounding in woods, and fre¬ 
quently opening into beautiful views. 
The inhabitants are rude and unpolished, 
their houses and persons alike slovenly, 
in proportion as the land they inhabit 
is wild and remote. They are also ig¬ 
norant and superstitious ; and, not con¬ 
tented with keeping the usual holidays 
and festivals of the Church, almost every 
village has a patron saint of its own, in 
whose honour festivals are celebrated. 
Each saint is supposed to have a pecu¬ 
liar province and to preside over some 
particular class of diseases. Thus St. 
Apollonia is invoked in cases of tooth- 
| ache ; St, Blaize, to avert sore throats ; 

| St. Lambert, to cure epilepsy; St. Odi- 
! lia, for sore eyes; St. Lucia, for other 
complaints ; St. Gertrude is engaged to 
drive away rats ; and St. Wendelin is 
looked upon as the protector of cattle. 
On their anniversaries the people flock 
in crowds to the churches dedicated to 
these medical saints so rich in remedies, 
bringing offerings not only of money. 










Rhenish Prussia. 


325 


ROUTE 44. —SPA TO COBLENZ. 


but also of butter, eggs, pigs’ heads, 
&c., which give the church the appear¬ 
ance of a market-place rather than a 
place of worship. Upon those days no 
work is done, and the evening concludes 
usually in drinking and gambling. 

2 Bitburg (/nn, Poste, not good), 
a town of 1700 Inhab., anciently a Bo- 
man station, Boedoe Yicus. The Rly. 
from Aix, now finished to Call, is in 
progress from Bitburg to Treves. 

[About 10 m. W. of Bitburg, within 
the frontier of Luxemburg, but scarcely 
accessible by roads, stands Vianden , a 
castle exceeding in extent almost any 
on the Rhine. 13 m. further is the 
ruined Abbey of Echternach (described 
in Rte. 33 a).] 

At Fliessem, about 3 m. from Bitburg, 
on the road to Prfim, and not more 
than 3 m. from the road, is a Roman 
villa. It contains very perfect and 
beautiful mosaics and a hypocaust in 
excellent preservation, curiously illus¬ 
trating the mode of heating buildings 
and apartments by the Romans. Two 
Roman milestones were dug up in a 
wood near Bitburg; they stood on the 
ancient high road, a short distance from 
the new post-road. They bear the 
name of the Empr. Hadrian, in whose 
reign they were set up, and the dis¬ 
tance marked upon them was 22,000 
paces (M. P. XXII.) from Treves. Be¬ 
tween Bitburg and 

1'4 Ilelenenberg there is not a single 
village ; but traces of the Roman road 
appear in sight from time to time. The 
very beautiful church at Helenenberg 
(called also the hospital) is now turned 
into a barn. Near Pallien , a village 
whose inhabitants live partly in caves 
cut out of the rocks, the road is carried 
over a deep ravine upon a bridge of a 
single arch, built by Napoleon (p. 316); 
and a passage has been hewn for the 
road itself in the solid rock, for a con¬ 
siderable distance, until it reaches the 
bank of the Moselle, immediately oppo¬ 
site the city of 

2\ Treves (see Rte. 41). The view 
of Treves in descending is very strik¬ 
ing. 


ROUTE 44. 

SPA TO COBLENZ. 

20 i Pruss. m. = 93f Eng. m. 

Two easy days by post—to Ililles- 
heim the 1 st day. Diligence daily— 
Spa to Malmedi—in 3 hrs. Though 
hilly, the road is so well laid out that 
8 m. an hour on an average may be 
made. Passing through a volcanic coun¬ 
try, it offers very varied scenery—hill 
and vale, beech forests, heaths, corn, 
and grass-lands. 

A gradual ascent of nearly 4 m., 
shaded by an agreeable avenue of trees, 
leads out of the valley of Spa: passing the 
mineral spring of Sauveniere, situated 
in a clump of trees, the road emerges 
upon a high, level, and bare district of 
barren heath, resembling Dartmoor, 
called Les Fanges. 

At the village of Francorchamps 
the road to Malmedi, turning to the 
1., leaves that to Stavelot (Rte. 33 a). 

About lj m. further runs the Prus¬ 
sian frontier, where baggage is slightly 
examined (§46). A fine view is gained 
on winding down the steep hill, of red 
sandstone, from the table-land into Mal¬ 
medi. 

23 Malmedi (7hn, Cheval Blanc, an 
humble inn), a small town of 4000 
Inhab., famous for the manufacture of 
sole leather for shoes, there being 50 
tanneries here in active work. The 
hides are derived from South America. 
The Ardennes forest furnishes the best 
bark. The greater part of Germany is 
supplied from Malmedi and Stavelot, 
and many of the tanners are very 
wealthy. The fantastic houses and 



326 


ROUTE 45. —UPPER EIFEL. 


Sect. IV. 


gardens, in and around tlie town, chiefly 
their property, are somewhat in the 
Dutch style. The most remarkable of 
them, Montbijou, lies on our road a 
little way out of the town. 

The road enters the great highway 
from Aix to Treves (Ete. 43), about 8 
m. from Malmedi, a little beyond 

2 Biitgenbach (Ete. 43). 

2 Losheim, in Ete. 43. Here a road 
branches off to the E., passing under 
the ruined castle Kronenburg, to 

If Stadtkyll [Inn, Post), on the road 
from Aix-la-Chapelle to Coblenz by 
Mayence, which is traversed daily 
by a scbnellpost. Ely. in progress to 
Treves. 

2 Ilillesheim [Inn, Post; comfort¬ 
able, with civil people, who make high 
charges), a curious old town, surrounded 
by walls from which there are fine 
views. From a hill near it a fine view 
is obtained of the Eifel. 

The country hence to Kellberg and 
Mayen presents fine forests and patches 
of beech, and some oak, with hills of 
volcanic forms in all directions. 

3 Kellberg.— Inn , Post. A public 
carnage runs between the Ahr valley 
and Kellberg, meeting that between 
Coblenz and Losheim. Views of the 
castle of Nurberg. Through an inte¬ 
resting country, passing many dome- 
topped hills—from whose egg-shape 
perhaps the district is called Ei-fel (?) — 
and near to the picturesque castle Vir- 
neberg, to 

3j Mayen (see Etes. 41 and 40), on 
the post-road to 

3.j Coblenz (Ete. 37). 


ROUTE 45. 

THE UPPER EIFEL—DUREN OR PRUM 

TO GEROLSTEIN, DA UN, AND LUTZE- 

RATII. 

The country of the Eifel Gebii’ge is 
particularly interesting to the geolo¬ 
gist, from the traces of volcanic agency 
which it exhibits in its lava currents 
and numerous extinct craters, many 
of them now filled with lakes or 
tarns. Apart from this consideration, 
the scenery of the Eifel has many fea¬ 
tures of no inconsiderable beauty and 
interest to induce the ordinary traveller 
to visit it. “ The high ground consti¬ 
tuting this tract of country is much 
diversified with finely formed emi¬ 
nences, which are often conical or 
crater-shaped, and frequently wooded ; 
the valleys are remarkable sometimes 
for their bold and rocky sides, frequently 
capped with old castles, and contracting 
into narrow glens ; sometimes for their 
softer or wooded and verdant character ; 
above all, the great peculiarity of the 
district is the secluded, often much 
concealed, and singular ‘ maars ’ or 
crater-lakes .”— T. T. Meres in Eng¬ 
lish. 

Permission may be obtained to fish 
in the lakes for roach and pike—trout 
are rare ; also for boar-shooting. Per¬ 
haps the finest and most picturesque 
scenery in the whole Eifel is presented 
by the course of the Kyll between 
Pelm, at the foot of the Casselburg, 
and Gerolstein, where the valley is 
lined by lofty and picturesque dills of 
Dolomite. 

The region of the Eifel i3 still the 
haunt of wolves and wild boars; the 
former not unfrequently approach hu¬ 
man habitations in the winter, and 
commit depredations on the flocks. 




Hhen. Prussia. 


327 


ROUTE 45 . —GEROLSTEIN. DAUN. 


The traveller visiting the Eifel from 
Aix-la-Chapelle or Spa may take the 
Railway , open from Diiren, by Zulpich 
to Call, whence it is being continued to 
Ilillesheim and Gerolstein. There is a 
daily eilwagen from Aix to Treves, 
which passes through Priini (Rte. 43). 
where we may turn aside to enter 
upon the district of the Eifel. The 
roads throughout it are almost inva¬ 
riably bad, especially in wet weather, 
and the country hilly. 

Gerolstein {Inn, Post: Clemens), 
where the tour of the Eifel pro¬ 
perly begins, is about 10 m. from Priim. 
It is a picturesque town on the Kyll, 
in a valley running between cliffs of 
limestone and dolomite, which, more 
particularly on the N. side, often pre¬ 
sent precipitous and striking escarp¬ 
ments, and peculiarly formed, and 
sometimes isolated, rocky eminences. 
Above the town are the ruins of a 
Castle. An interesting excursion, and 
one that may easily be accomplished in 
a forenoon, is to start by the footpath 
leading to the clear carbonated spring 
at the bottom of the valley, to cross the 
river Kyll, and ascend the hill opposite 
(to the N. of the town). On the 
summit is a perfectly formed dry crater 
called the Pfaffcnkaul. The surface 
of the hollow is now cultivated, but 
traces of volcanic action are everywhere 
apparent. A little to the W. is a 
stream of lava which divides into 2 
branches, and includes a hollow space 
termed the Hagelskaul. Near it, to 
the S., there is a considerable cavern, 
situated in the cliffs termed the Buchen- 
loch, formed by one of the numerous 
fissures in the strata, but probably en¬ 
larged by ai't. Thence the field may 
be crossed to the Ice grotto of Roth, in 
order to see which lights and a guide 
may be procured at a farm-house and 
inn near the ch. of Roth. In this 
cavern, which is a sort of natural ice¬ 
house, ice is always to be found during 
the summer, but it is said to disappear 
in winter. In returning to Gerolstein, 
the road may be varied by crossing the 
base of the Auberg, where innumerable 
fossil shells, corals, &c., are found 
strewed over the surface of the fields. 
Several persons in Gerolstein form col¬ 


lections of them for sale.— T. T. One 
of the curiosities of the neighbourhood 
is a mineral spring, called Brudeldreis, 
opposite Birresborn, on a hill within 
the Gerolstein wald (take a guide). 
In the summer it dries up; but if 
a cupful of water be thrown into 
the basin of rock from which it 
issues, a rattling is heard, and a jet 
of water spirted out. Dead bodies 
of birds and other small animals are 
often found near it, destroyed by having 
alighted within the range of the noxious 
vapour issuing from it (carbonic acid 
gas), but it is a fable that birds are 
killed in flying over it. Peasants stoop¬ 
ing down to drink are repulsed by the 
suffocating vapour, which, being heavier 
than the air, lies along the surface of 
the water, in a stratum more or less 
deep as the atmosphere is agitated or 
calm. 

The road from Gerolstein to Kirch- 
weiler (3 m.) passes the Casselburg, 
a picturesque stronghold, surmounting 
a mass of basaltic rock. Dochweiler, 
3 m. farther, is a village built of lava. 
Near it, to the N.W., is a large basin¬ 
shaped crater, called Dreiser-Weihcr, 
which, though now a meadow, was 
evidently at a former period filled with 
water, and is still remarkable for its 
numerous mineral springs. Dreis, in 
the dialect of the Eifel, means a mineral 
spring. Olivine, a comparatively rare 
mineral, is found at the S. side of the 
crater, sometimes in masses 18 in. 
in diameter, and augite is also met 
with. Glassy felspar is found at Ho- 
henfels, near this. Some of the highest 
hills in the Eifel surround the Dreiser- 
Weiher. 

5 m. from Dochweiler lies Daun; 
(Grethen’s Inn.) Carriage to Gerold- 
stein, Manderscheid, or Lutzerath (on 
the high road to Coblenz), thalers. 
The castle was the family residence and 
the birthplace of the Marshal who led 
the Austrian armies in the Seven Years’ 
War, and defeated Frederick the Great 
at Kolin. On the summit of a steep 
acclivity near this lie 3 crater lakes: — 
1. We inf elder-Maar, said to be the 
highest in the district—a perfect basin 
scooped out of rock; on the precipice 
above it stands a rude small church. 



328 


ROUTE 46. —BINGEN TO TREVES. 


Sect. IV. 


2. Separated from 1 by a narrow isth¬ 
mus of slaty rock is the Shalkenmehrer- 
Maar, embanked only on two sides, 
on the others bounded by a wide flat 
meadow alternating with peat bog. 

3. ^ m. removed from the others is the 
gem of all the lakes, deep set in a hollow 
surrounded by copse wood, the Gmiinden- 
Maar , very beautiful. From Daun, a 
detour should be made by Stadfeld to 
Manderscheid (Tnn: Pantenburg’s), in 
order to see its two old castles (the 
larger one is very interesting), and the 
Meerfelder Maar, another considerable 
crater-lake in a perfectly circular basin, 
100 fathoms deep ; the water does not 
occupy the whole of it. Close to it 
rises the hill of Mosenberg, remarkable 
for its 4 volcanic cones of slag; 3 of 
them are perfect; 1 is broken down on 
the S.; from one of them a current of 
basaltic lava descends into the valley. 
A pleasant pedestrian excursion from 
Manderscheid to Neumiihl, through the 
valley of the Kyll. 

Gillenfeld (Klasen [Otto] Inn), on 
the road to Liitzerath, passing Heders- 
dorf, is the next point of interest. 
On the height 1 m. E. lies the Pulver- 
maar, one of the largest and most beau¬ 
tiful crater-lakes of the Eifel, 330 ft. 
deep: large pike in it. On the way 
from Gillenfeld to Liitzerath is the 
village of Strotzbusch, built in the 
hollow of a crater-lake, and near it 
there are remains of another crater, 
formerly perhaps a lake. 

Thei’c is a post-road from Liitzerath 
to Daun, 2^ Germ, m., but it does 
not pass through Gillenfeld or Strotz¬ 
busch ; and from Daun through Doch- 
weiler to Hillesheim, 2^ Germ. m. 
Liitzerath is distant from Daun, by the 
direct road, about 12 Eng. m. "We 
have now entered upon Route 41. 


ROUTE 46. 

BINGEN TO TREVES. 

16£ Pruss. m. = 76 Eng. m. 

Treves may now be reached by rail 
from Bingen, via Saarbriick. The chief 
part of this road is excellent, though 
hilly; it is carried out of the valley of 
the Nahe by well-constructed zigzags, 
and at one point, where seats have 
been erected, commands a charming 
view. 

There is considerable beauty in the 
gorge leading down to the village of 

11 Stromberg, with the ruins of 
Castle Goldenfels, which was bravely 
defended against the French, 1793, by 
the Prussian Lieut, v. Gauvain, with 
35 men. A monument commemorates 
the event. 

3 Simmern(/nn, Post), on the Hunds- 
riiek, or Hunsriick. Near the town, at 
the Schmiedels, is an interesting Refuge 
for destitute children. 

We follow the line of the old Roman 
road as far as Kirchberg. 

2'! Biichenbeuem. From this to 
Berncastel the road is very hilly, run¬ 
ning over the high table-land of the 
Ilundsriick (Dog’s Back) which ex¬ 
tends between the Rhine, Moselle, and 
Nahe. For a considerable distance 
neither house nor human being is to be 
seen. The country is a bleak uncul¬ 
tivated waste of moor and moss, with 
forest interspersed. Here and there a 
distant view over hills and valleys ap¬ 
pears. We again follow the line of the 
old Roman road, called in the country 
Steinstrasse. By the side of it is seen 
a small truncated tower (Stumpfer 
Thurm), said to be (?) a Roman work. 
It is supposed indeed, that the Ro¬ 
man station Belginum, or Tabemae, 
may have stood upon this spot. A 
little farther on, the road descends 
through a narrow and winding ravine 
(the Tiefenbacherthal), whose sides, 
formed of ragged slate-rocks, are ex¬ 
ceedingly picturesque, in many places 



















329 


ROUTE 47 . —COLOGNE TO FRANKFURT. 


Rhenish Prussia. 

overhanging the road, and sprinkled 
over with trees and underwood. Con¬ 
siderable mines have been driven into 
these rocks, and roofing slate is obtained 
from them. Many of the entrances 
to them open close upon the road¬ 
side. At the bottom of this steep de¬ 
scent lies 

3j Berncastel, on the Moselle.—7hn, 
Three Kings (Rte. 42.) Diligence to 
Treves. 

The Moselle is here passed by a ferry¬ 
boat ; a good road leads to 

31 Hetzerath, on the high road from 
Coblenz to Treves. 

2f Treves. Route 41. 


ROUTE 47. 

COLOGNE TO FRANKFURT A. M., BY 
SIEGBURG AND GIESSEN. 

23fGerm.m. = l05Eng. m. Trains: 
to Giessen in 5£ hrs. ; Giessen to Frank¬ 
furt in 2 hrs. 

The Cologne-Giessen Railway , opened 
to Wissen I860, to Giessen 1862— 
3 trains daily to GieSsen in 5| hrs.; 
Terminus at Deutz—ascends the valley 
of the Rhine, but at some distance from 
the river, until it enters the tributary 
valley of the Sieg, not far from 

3^ Siegburg Stat. (Inn, Stern, toler¬ 
able), a town of 2500 Inhab., on the 
Sieg, about 4 m. above its junction with 
the Rhine. Upon the volcanic rock of St. 
Michael, in a singularly beautiful situ¬ 
ation, immediately overhanging the 
town, stands the ancient Benedictine 
Abbey , founded in 1060 by Archbishop 
Ilanno, who is buried within the fine 
Church. It is now a Lunatic Asylum. 
Diligence daily to Bonn, crossing the 


Sieg by a ferry some way below Sieg¬ 
burg, and the Rhine by the flying 
bridge. Diligence to Bonn. 

Ilenncf Stat. Near this the Sieg is 
crossed by the rly.; the valley con¬ 
tracts ; several bridges and a tunnel 
are passed, rt. Castle of Blankenburg. 
Another tunnel before 

Eitorf Stat. Burg - Welterath is the 
property of Count Nesselrode. 

Schladern Stat. Pretty scenery—deep 
cutting—falls of the Sieg: Castle of 
Windeck restored. 

Au Stat. [Diligence to Altenkirchen, 
7 m. S.W., where General Marceau 
(the Bayard of the French republic) 
received his death wound in an action 
with the Austrians under the Archduke 
Charles. Rte. 37.] 

Wissen Stat. On 1. bank of Sieg rises 
the Schonstein, the handsome chateau 
of Prince Hatzfeld-Wildenburg. 
i Betzdorf June. Stat. [Near this the 
Sieg Valley Rly. diverges 1. from our 
line, passing by Siegen Stat. (Inn: 
Goldener Lowe), Pop. 7100. In the 
lower of the Two Castles of the Prince 
of Nassau-Siegen is a monument to 
P. Maurice of Nassau (d. 1625). Siegen 
is the birthplace of Rubens 1577. 
This Rly. is carried into the valley of 
the Ruhr by Altena and Hagen (Inns: 
Deutsches Haus; H. Liinenschloss), 
where it forms a junction with the rly. 
from Dusseldorf to Elberfeld (Rte. 67), 
near the Castle Hohen-Syburg.] 

The Giessen Rly. is carried through 
the valley of the Dill by 

Dillenburg (Nassau). 7nn;Post. The 
great statesman and hero, William 
Prince of Orange, as well as his son P. 
Maurice, were bom in the Castle. Sta¬ 
tions— Rerborn, Sinn, Ehringhausen. 

Wetzlar Junct. Stat., in the valley 
of the Lahn (Rte. 96). Railway to 
Giessen Junct. Stat. (Rte. 70). 

2^ Frankfurt a, M., Rte. 95. 















■f 

1 
































































































































* 



















( 331 ) 


SECTION V. 

PRUSSIA, continued.— MECKLENBURG—HANOYER—BRUNSWICK— 
HESSE CASSEL—THE HANSE TOWNS, &c. 


ROUTE PAGE 

56. London to Hamburg .... 331 

57. Hamburg to L'ubeck and Tra- 

vemunde —Railway . . . 337 

58. Hamburg to Stralsund, by 

Schwerin , Dobberan , and Ros¬ 
tock . . . 340 

59. Hamburg to Hanover, Bruns¬ 

wick, or Hildesheim—R ail. 342 

60. Hamburg to Bremen and 

Oldenburg.343 

61. Hamburg to Berlin — Rail . 344 

62. Berlin to Magdeburg, by 

Potsdam and Brandenburg — 

Rail.364 

63. Berlin to Leipzig, by Witten¬ 

berg, Kothen, Halle, Wbrlitz, 
and Dessau —Rail . . . 368 

64. Magdeburg to Leipzig, by Kb- 

then—R ail.373 

65. Berlin to Dresden—R ail . .373 

66. Cologne to Berlin, by Minden , 

Hanover, Brunswick, Magde¬ 
burg —Cologne and Minden 
Railway .374 

67. Diisseldorf to Berlin, by El- 

berfeld , Cassel, Eisleben, and 
Halle. 384 I 


ROUTE 56. 

LONDON TO HAMBURG. 

Steamboats start from London and 
from Hamburg Wednesday and Satur¬ 
day mornings: they set off so early in 
the morning that it is advisable to sleep 
on board the night before. The average 
passage is about 52 h., though it some¬ 
times takes 60 or 70. 

About 25 m. from the mouth of the 
Elbe lies the island of Heligoland 
(Germ. Helgoland), on which it is 
supposed stood the temple of the 
Frisic god Fosete, destroyed by St. 
Imdger in the 8 th century on the 


ROUTE PAGE 

68. Cologne to Cassel and Bruns¬ 

wick, by Soest and Paderbom 
— Rail .388 

69. Diisseldorf to Munster and to 

Osnabriick (Rail) . . . 390 

69 a. Paderborn to Hanover, by the 
Grotenberg, Extersteine, Det- 
mold, Pyrmont.393 

70. Frankfurt-a.-M. to Cassel — 

Kail.394 

71. Descent of the Weser from 

Hanoverian M linden to 
lJameln, Minden, and Bre¬ 
men (Pyrmont) . . . .399 

72. Cassel to Hanover, hy Got¬ 

tingen . 403 

72 a. Diisseldorf to Bremen — 

Rail.40Q 

73. The Harz. — Gottingen to 

Clausthal, Goslar, the Broc¬ 
ken, the Rosstrappe, Vale of 
the Bode, and Ale wish ad'. . 408 

74. The Harz. — Nordhausen to 

Magdeburg.416 

74 B. Hamburg to Leipzig, by 

Magdeburg— Rail . , .418 


conversion of the Frisians to Chris¬ 
tianity. Heligoland was ceded to 
Great Britain in 1807, and is now much 
frequented by the Germans for sea¬ 
bathing. Its pop. amounts to 3000. At 
the time when Napoleon had excluded 
England from the continent it was 
important as a war-station ; and from 
its situation near the mouths of the 
rivers Elbe and Weser, it then be¬ 
came a considerable smuggling depot. 
Its male inhabitants are chiefly fisher¬ 
men, sailors, and pilots. The destruc¬ 
tion of its shores by the sea has been 
much exaggerated. It appears that ‘‘ the 
destruction in a century, for the whole 
circumference, was not more than 3 ft.” 
It appears also that in the time of Adam 
















332 


ROUTE 56. —CUXHAVEN. ALTONA. HAMBURG. 


Sect. V 


of Bremen, whose description is extant, 
the island was only a little larger than at 
present. 

1. At the mouth of the Elbe stand 
the lighthouse and town of Cuxhaven , 
on a small angle of territory belong¬ 
ing to Hamburg. Inns: Belvedere; 
Bellevue. Vessels lie at anchor off 
this place waiting for favourable winds. 
It is a watering-place frequented by 
the inhabitants of Hamburg for sea- 
bathing. In winter, when the Elbe is 
frozen over, it is necessary to proceed 
from Hamburg by land to meet the 
steamers at Cuxhaven, a tedious and 
expensive journey, crossing the Elbe to 
Harburg, and descending its 1. bank. 

Next the sea, between the Elbe and 
the Elder, extends the district anciently 
called Ditmarschen , celebrated for its 
privileges and republican institutions; 
resembling Holland in its marshes and 
sea-dykes, which preserve it from the 
inroad of the ocean. 

Beyond Cuxhaven, the 1. bank of the 
Elbe belongs to Hanover. At Stade 
a toll was levied by Hanover in 
virtue of an ancient imperial grant 
on vessels and cargoes passing up the 
Elbe, down to 1861, when it was 
abolished by treaty, on payment of 
compensation. 

The land on the rt. bank is the 
territory of the Duchy of Holstein, 
now Prussian; it rises in gentle slopes, 
covered, for some distance below Ham¬ 
burg, with wood, interspersed with 
handsome villas and gardens belong¬ 
ing to opulent merchants. On this 
side lies the small town of Gliick- 
stadt, with 6000 Inhab., once a 
strong fortress, besieged in vain by 
Tilly and Torstenson, connected with 
Altona by Railway. Higher up, the 
little fishing village of Blankenese, with 
its houses scattered along the slope and 
among the trees one above another, is 
passed; and above it, the town of 

rt. Altoxa (Inns : Bahnhof Hotel ; 
Holsteinisches Haus), which joins 
Hamburg, and from the river seems 
to form a part of it. It has 
risen to great mercantile prosperity, 
perhaps to the prejudice of its neigh¬ 
bour, so that the Hamburgers say 
that its name agrees with its situation, 


as it is All-zu-nah (All too near). In 
commercial respects it is a perfectly 
free town, no duties being levied, and 
the custom-house line runs outside of 
it. It is the most commercial and popu¬ 
lous town in Holstein, having 67,350 
Inhab. A Railroad runs from Altona to 
Kiel on the Baltic. (See Handbook 
for N. Europe , Denmark , &c.) 

A handsome Quay has been con¬ 
structed at Hamburg along the Elbe, 
and the harbour has been deepened, but 
passengers by sea-going steamers usually 
embark and disembark in boats to and 
from the vessel. 

rt. Hamburg. — Inns: Hotel de 
T Europe, very good—first-rate table- 
d’hote ; Hotel St. Petersburg, well 
situated ; Victoria Hotel; Streit’s 
Hotel; Zingg’s Hotel, opposite the 
Exchange; Alster Hotel. These are 
on the old and new Jungfernstieg and 
the Alsterdamm. Charges: bed and 
dinner 32 sch. each, breakfast 12 sch. 

2 a bottle of wine 16 sch. Service 
12 sch. 

Cafes: Alster Pavilion and Alster 
Halle, on the old and new Jungfern¬ 
stieg ; Zingg’s Cafe, cup of coffee 2 sch. 

Restaurants : Grube, Alt Jungfern¬ 
stieg ; Wilkens, Bergstrasse. 

Hamburg is situated about 80 m. from 
the mouth of the Elbe, on its N. (rt.) 
bank, at the junction of a small stream 
called the Alster with the Elbe. Being 
a Free Town, the duties levied are so 
small that travellers are not bothered 
with any Custom-house examination 
on landing. Its Pop. is 222,200 (13,000 
Jews, 6000 Bom. Cath.), 

The Current Coins are— ^s!*gr‘. 

Mark Courant ( = 16 Schil¬ 
lings) = 1 21 = 12 

Double Mark =25 

Pieces of 8 Schillings =07 

-4 Sch. = 0 3j 

1 Schilling (9 pfg.) near = 01 
Bix dollar (specie) =47 
Mark Banco (imaginary) = 1 5f = 15 

Most of these coins are so much worn 
that care is required in talcing them: 
even the natives are sometimes puzzled 
to know what they are. Many of them 
are valueless out of Hamburg, The 







□7“ 


Published by John Murray Albemarle StJ'cet London 


Engraved ~by J. & C.Walker 


If A ME'011 & 


RotV 


eren ces 


1 

Sf Peter 

E c 

o 

SfNicholas. ... 

E d 

3 

Si Michael 

C d 

4 

Horse -Eachanae. 

E d 

5 

Sri atherinc 

E d 

6 

Sr Jacobi 

F c 

7 

Johanneum 

E d 


Public 

Cemeter te* 


9 

10 

11 
12 

13 

14 

15 

16 
17 


Stadthaus 

D d 

Great- Hospital 

. G CL 

Orphan Asylum 

D <? 

Elopstodcs house . 

D c 

Thetifr'e 

D b 

Thalia, Theatre 

E c 

Elbe Pavilion 

B <? 

Sen-Post Office 

D c 




































/ 


. 

. 











































' 






















Prussia. . eoute 56 .- 

English sovereigns and Prussian notes 
and silver are current at their full 
value—1 thaler = 3s. = 2| marks. 

Money accounts are kept in marks 
and schillings. 

Hamburg, down to 1867 one of the 
Free Hanse Towns, has become Prus¬ 
sian, and is occupied by a Prussian garri¬ 
son. It is remarkable for its excellent 
harbour, rendering it the first trading 
seaport of Germany. It is intersected by 
canals, called Fleethen (Fleet ditches ?), 
and in this respect, and in the trees 
growing in its streets, bears a resem¬ 
blance, in the old part of the town, to 
the towns of Holland. The trade of 
Hamburg has enormously increased: 
the annual value of its imports 
amounts to 55,000,000/. sterling ! 
The average number of vessels en¬ 
tering the port in a year is nearly 
5000, more than one-third of which 
arc British. The Elbe is navi¬ 
gable thus far for ships of consider¬ 
able burden, which can enter the har¬ 
bour and transfer their cargoes in barges 
to the merchants’ doors, whoso ware¬ 
houses and dwellings generally adjoin. 
There are no docks. Much banking 
and funding business is done here ; be¬ 
sides which it is the depot for a large 
part of the exports and imports of the 
North of Europe. The sugar refineries 
have diminished of late. 

By the Fire of 1842 Hamburg sus¬ 
tained a calamity unequalled in extent 
in any European city since the fire of 
London. The conflagration broke out 
in the Deichstrasse, near the Elbe, on 
Thursday, May 5, and raged until the 
following Sunday in spite of all efforts 
to oppose it; widening as it advanced 
until it had involved in destruction 
2 sides of the Alster Basin, levelling 
almost all the buildings, public and pri¬ 
vate, over an area of many acres, sweep¬ 
ing down 1749 houses, 61 streets, be¬ 
sides courts and alleys, and even cross¬ 
ing the bread canal of the Alster. The 
churches of St. Nicholas, St. Peter, and 
St. Gertrude were consumed ; the New 
Exchange, though surrounded by the 
flames, escaped uninjured. The sym¬ 
pathy caused by this event in all 


-Hamburg. 333 

parts of the globe was proved by the 
voluntary subscriptions raised for the 
sufferers, amounting to near 400,000/., 
of which England contributed 41,000/. 
Besides this, immense sums were raised 
by loan, so that Hamburg has now the 
largest national debt, in proportion 
to its population, of any continental 
state. 

Hamburg has profited by the calamity 
in the improvements introduced in lay¬ 
ing out the new buildings, the widening 
of streets, the establishment of water¬ 
works, the construction of sewers, and 
the filling up of stagnant ditches. A new 
and handsome Ratlihans (from G. G. 
Scott’s design) is to he built on one side 
of a new square fronting the Borse. The 
finest of the new buildings are near the 
Alster. The foundations are mostly of 
granite — the superstructure of brick 
and stucco. The designs show great 
variety, and sometimes beauty. The 
Breite-strasse , one side of which alone 
was consumed, presents a contrast of 
old and new houses. The Arcade 
opening out of the Jungfernsticg is de¬ 
serving of attention for its extent and 
beauty. 

Servant-girls and cooks rarely ap¬ 
pear in public except in gay at» 
tire; with lace caps, long kid 
gloves, and a splendid shawl, arranged 
under the arm, so as to conceal a 
basket shaped like a child’s coffin, 
containing clothes, butter or cheese, 
or other articles purchased at market. 
The peasants who frequent the market 
wear a picturesque attire; they are 
chiefly natives of a district bofder- 
ing on the Elbe, called Yicrlanden, 
which is principally laid out in gar¬ 
dens, and supplies the market with 
vegetables. 

Funeral processions in Hamburg are 
not composed of friends of the deceased, 
but of hired mourners, called Reitcn 
Diener , dressed in black, with plaited 
ruffs round their necks, curled and 
powdered wigs, short Spanish cloaks, 
and swords. The same persons, whose 
number is limited to 16, attend at mar¬ 
riage-festivals, and form also a sort of 







334 


ROUTE 56. —HAMBURG. JUNGFERNSTIEG. 


Sect. V. 


body-guard to tbe magistrates. Their 
situations were formerly purchased at a 
high price, in consideration of the per¬ 
quisites and fees attached to them. 
Upon the death of a burgomaster or other 
personage of importance in the town, the 
town trumpeter, a civic officer, is set to 
blow a dirge from one of the steeples. 

The churches have little architectural 
beauty, excepting *St. Nicholas , in the 
Hopfenmarkt, a noble modern Gothic 
structure, built of stone from Osterwald 
and white brick, the finest Protestant 
ch. in Germany. The tower at the 
W. end has a spire of open work, I 
intended to rise 452 feet high. The ; 
design is by the English architect 
G. G. Scott. The inside surpasses the j 
outside: stone arcades run round it. j 
The altar, pulpit, and font are richly 
sculptured in white marble. St. 
Peter’s has also been rebuilt, and is a 
fine lofty Gothic church. St. Michael’s 
has one of the loftiest steeples in 
Europe, 432 ft. high, about 100 ft. 
higher than St. Paul’s in London 
(340 ft.), from which the town and 
the Elbe, nearly as far as the sea, 
part of Holstein on the N., and 
of Hanover on the S., present 
themselves advantageously to view. 
It is also the station of the fire-watch 
(§«). 

The Kunsthalle (Art Museum) on 
the Alsterhohe, contains collections of 
engravings, sculpture, paintings, &c., 
the property of the town. 


mences at 1£ o’ clock, and it is worthwhile 
to see the crowd that comes thronging 
in at that hour. Opposite the Horse 
is the Bank of Hamburg. 

The Schidgebdude, erected 1834 on 
the site of the ancient Dom, includes 
the Johanneum , a college under the care 
of excellent professors, where a good 
classical and commercial education is 
given for 120 marks per annum. The 
Town Library , consisting of about 
200,000 vols. and 5000 MSS., has been 
removed to this building. 

The charitable institutions of Ham¬ 
burg are on a very munificent scale. 
The Orphan Asylum (Waisenhaus) pro¬ 
vides for 600 children, who are received 
as infants, reared, educated, and bound 
apprentices to some useful ti’ade. The 
Great Hospital (Krankenhaus), in the 
suburb of St. George, is capable of con¬ 
taining from 4000 to 5000 sick. The 
yearly cost of supporting this admirable 
institution is nearly 17,000/. Its utility 
is not confined to the poor alone, as 
even persons of the higher classes resort 
to the hospital to avail themselves of 
the advantages of the excellent medical 
treatment which they may here obtain. 
Such patients are admitted as lodgers, 
on payment of a sum varying from 8 d. 
to 8s. a day. The Chapel contains a 
painting by Overbeck. The subject is 
Christ’s Agony in the Garden, with the 
3 disciples sleeping below. The ar¬ 
rangement and attitudes are Giottesque, 
the colour thick and low. 


The *B6rse {Exchange), a fine build¬ 
ing on the Adolphs Platz, is well de- j 
signed. It was completed just before 1 
the fire, and escaped uninjured. It j 
forms a noble hall 48 paces by 26, 
exclusive of the surrounding colon¬ 
nade. On the first floor are reading- I 
rooms, offices, &c., corresponding with 
Lloyd’s in London, and called the Bor- 
senhalle. A stranger can be introduced 
to read the papers and journals of all 
quarters of the globe. It is also the seat 
of the Commercium, or Board of Trade, 
of the Chamber of Commerce ( Handels - 
gericht ), presided over by 2 lawyers and 
9 merchants as judges. Change com- 


Felix Mendelssohn Bartholdy, the 
lamented composer, was born here, 
1809. 

The House of Klopstock the poet 
(1774-1803), No. 27 in the Konig- 
strasse, is rebuilt. 

The old and new *Jungfemstieg (Mai¬ 
den’s Walk) and the Alsterdamm are 
broad walks around the sides of a basin 
of water formed by damming up the 
small river Alster. Here is the fashion¬ 
able promenade, especially resorted to 
in the summer evenings, when the 
surface of the water is covered with 






Prussia , 


ROUTE 56. —HAMBURG. 


335 


boats filled with water parties. It 
is flanked on 3 sides by handsome 
rows of houses, and has a broad 
terrace round its margin. At the 
waterside are the two most frequented 
cafes in the town, called Pavilions. 
There are floating baths on the Alster. 

At the E. end of the Alster Bridge is 
a fine statue of Schiller. 

The Stadt Theater is one of the 
largest in Germany, and the perform¬ 
ances and music generally very good. 
The play begins at Gh and usually ends 
before 10. Shut June, July, August. 

The Thalia Theater , Pfcrde Markt, 
is chiefly famed for comic pieces, and 
is a popular resort. Shut in summer. 

The public *ball -rooms in and about 
the town, though not frequented by the 
most respectable classes, being often the 
resort of low company, deserve to be 
looked at as one of the peculiarities 
of the place. The best are the Elbe 
Pavilion, Apollo Saal, Peter Ahrin’s 
Salon. Some of the cellars for sup¬ 
pers, beer, &c., are worth a visit. 

The Hamburg hung beef is cele¬ 
brated. 

The Ramparts are levelled and 
converted into delightful boulevards 
or gardens, neatly laid out, which 
extend nearly round the town, 
and between the two Alster basins. 
The most pleasing view of the town 
and river, the shipping and opposite 
shore of the Elbe, presents itself from 
the eminence, at the extremity of these 
walks nearest to Altona, called the 
*Elbhohe , or Stintfang. 

In some parts of the town a portion 
of the poorer inhabitants live in cellars 
under the houses. In winter, and after 
a prevalence of W. winds, which drive 
the waters of the German Ocean into 
the mouth of the Elbe, the tides rise to 
a great height (sometimes 20 ft.), some¬ 
times inundating the streets near the 
river. The tenants of these cellars are 
then driven from their habitations by 
the water, which keeps possession of 
them for days, leaving them filled with 
ooze, and in a most unhealthy condition 
from the moisture. The upper part of 
the house is let under condition that the 
occupiers of the cellars are to receive 
shelter at such seasons of calamity. 


Outside the Damm Gate, not far 
from the Jungfernstieg, are the public 
Cemeteries , which deserve a visit, as 
exhibiting the customs and usages of 
Germany with regard to the resting- 
place of the dead. 

Hamburg had once the misfortune 
to be a fortified town, and in conse¬ 
quence was subjected to the horrors of 
a siege from the French, and was twice 
occupied by their armies, who, under 
Davoust, in 1813, exercised the most 
cruel severities and atrocities upon the 
inhabitants. Here is a monumental 
sarcophagus to 1138 men, women, and 
children, who perished of cold and 
starvation on that occasion, driven out 
of the town in the depth of winter. 

The merchants of Hamburg are cele¬ 
brated for their hospitality and the 
goodness of their dinners, as all stran¬ 
gers can testify who are well introduced. 
It is customary to give vails to servants 
in private houses ;—they expect at least 
two marks from each visitor. 

The English residents here are very 
numerous. They have erected, with 
partial aid from the British Govern¬ 
ment, an English Church , near the 
harbour. Service twice on Sundays. 

Reading Rooms. — Besides the Bbrscn- 
halle , mentioned already, at the Athe¬ 
naeum, Bucherstrasse, more than 150 
newspapers and journals are taken in. 
Entrance for a week, 1 mark. 

The best shops are upon the S. side of 
the Jungfernstieg, and the adjoining 
street, Eeuer Wall. 

The principal Booksellers arc Perthes, 
Besser, and Mauke, 13, Jungfernstieg; 
Behrendson, Alster Arcade, keeps 
Guide-books, Dictionaries, local prints, 
and photographs. 

Post Office for the North German 
Confederation, also Telegraph Oflice , 
(the office for letters to and from Eng¬ 
land), in a large building with a lofty 
tower, in the Poststrasse ; there arc 
others close at hand in the Giinsc- 
markt and Ivlostertlior, near Berlin 
Railway Terminus. 

Consuls. —All the states of the New 
and Old World are represented here. A 
British Charge d 1 Affaires and Consul- 
General and Vice-Consul, also a Consul- 
General from the United States , reside 





336 route 56.— Hamburg, environs. 


here. Most of the Consulate Offices are 
near the harbour. 

Hackney-coaches are called Droskies. 
Fares: A drive in the town (I or 2 
persons) 8 sch.; by the hour, 1 marc; 
to the Harburg Steam-ferry, 14 sch.; 
every trunk, 4 sch.; to the Altona 
Stat., 12 sch. ; from the Berlin Stat. to 
Altona Stat., 1 marc. 

Omnibuses ply through the town by 
various routes, from the Schwcine- 
markt to Altona and Rainville’s gar¬ 
den, fare 4 sch. 

Environs. —The Zoological Gardens 
are remarkable for their very large 
and well-stocked Aquariums of living 
marine and freshwater animals. 

a. There are pleasant walks along the 
Alster Lake to Uhlenhorst, a tavern 
and sort of tea gardens. Steamer 
thither in summer. 

b. It is a very pleasant drive to descend 
the rt. bank of the Elbe from Altona 
to Blankenese. The slopes bordering 
on the river are studded with country 
seats of merchants, and possess con¬ 
siderable natural beauty. Between 
Hamburg and Altona runs a narrow 
strip of suburb called Vorstadt St. 
Pauli, partly occupied by low taverns 
and dancing-rooms: in fact, a sort 
of Wapping, extending to the gate of 
Altona. At the further end of Altona 
is the suburb of Ottensen, where the 
brave Duke of Brunswick died, in 
1806, from the wound he had received 
in the battle of Jena. In the church¬ 
yard, by the side of the road, and under 
an umbrageous elm, is The Tomb of 
Flop stock, author of the ‘ Messiah. ’ 
Here is also a monument to the 1138 
Hamburgers who perished in 1813-14, 
during the siege and occupation of 
Hamburg by the French, and are in¬ 
terred here in one common grave—the 
subject of a pretty poem by Eiickert. 
Farther on is Rainville’s Tavern and j 
garden, overlooking the Elbe—“The ; 
Star and Garter ” of the Hamburgers. 
The house itself was inhabited succes¬ 
sively by Dumouricz and Bourrienne. 
The view is fine, the cuisine very toler¬ 
able, and in fine summer afternoons 
very respectable company repair hither 
to dine or take coffee. On the hills 
sloping towards the Elbe are the 


Sect. V. 

country seats of the Hamburg Senators 
—the Jenischs, Parishes (Nieustadten), 
and Godeffroys (Dockenhuden)—with 
beautiful grounds. Sullberg is a fine 
point of view. At Blankenese, about 
9 m. from Hamburg, Mr. Bauer's Plea¬ 
sure Grounds, laid out in the Dutch 
taste, thrown open to the public, are a 
frequented resort of the Hamburgers. 

c. In an opposite direction, about 3 m. 
N.E. from Hamburg, lies the Holstein 
village of Wandsbeck, in a very pretty 
situation: it is the 1 st stat. on the rly. 
to Liibeck (Rte. 57). Tycho Brahe 
the astronomer lived in the chateau, 
now pulled down, and Voss the poet 
also resided here. In the churchyard 
is the grave of Claudius. 

d. The Rauhes Haus at Horn, founded 
by Dr. "NVichern, is a Reformatory for 
unprotected children, carried on with 
benevolence and success, 3 m. from 
Hamburg, on the road to Bergedorf. 

Steamboats across the Elbe to Har¬ 
burg 8 times a day (Rte. 59) ;—to 
London, Tuesday and Friday at night; 
in winter they start from Cuxhaven;— 
to Hull, 4 times a week, average pas¬ 
sage 42 hours ;—to Havre, once a week, 
in 50 or 60 hrs.;—to Cuxhaven, 4 
times a week, in 6 or 8 hrs.;—to Heli¬ 
goland, 2 or 3 times a week. 

Schnellpost daily to Bremen (Rte. 
60). 

Railroads to Berlin (Rte. 61);—to 
Lubeck ;—to Kiel, Rendsburg, Ton- 
ning, Schleswig, and Flensburg, (from 
Altona) ( see Handbook for N. Europe ). 
Care should be taken to allow plenty of 
time for reaching the station of the 
Kiel railway, which is a considerable 
distance from Hamburg, and the dros¬ 
kies are very slow and uncertain con¬ 
veyances.— To Hanover. (Rte. 59). 
Travellers are conveyed by steamer to 
the station at Harburg for the Hanover 
line. 






Prussia. 


ROUTE 57. —HAMBURG TO LUBECK. 


337 


ROUTE 57. 

HAMBURG TO LUBECK AND TRAVEMuNDE. 
—RAILWAY. 

About 45 Eng. m. Trains in If hr. 
A direct line of rail through the 
territory of Holstein was opened 1865. 
4 trains daily. 

Wandsbeck Stat., a pretty village, in 
which Tycho Brahe, the astronomer, 
and Voss, the poet, resided. Claudius 
is buried in the churchyard. 

Oldesloe Stat. 

Lubkck Stat. 


[Another way to Liibeck is to follow 
the Berlin railway as far as 

Biichen Stat. (Rte. 61), whence a 
branch railway is carried up the valley 
of the Stecknitz, passing Molln on a 
lake traversed by the railway (where 
Till Eulenspiegel is reported to have 
breathed his last, 1350, and his grave 
is shown). 

Ratzeburg Stat. This town, Top. 
4010 (not seen from the stat.) 
was once a bishop’s see, and is 
situated on an island in the midst 
of a lake connected with the shore 
by a causeway, the slopes around richly 
wooded with beech. It is now Prus¬ 
sian. The Cathedral is entirely of brick 
of the 12 th century.] 

The territory belonging to Liibeck 
begins about 6 m. from its walls: it 
is limited, comprehending altogether 
53,000 Inhab., and is bounded by Hol¬ 
stein, Lauenburg, and Mecklenburg. 

Lubeck Stat. is close to the * Holstein 
Thor , which is approached by a bridge 
over the Trave. It is flanked by 2 
conic-roofed round towers of red and 
glazed brick in patterns, with arcades. 
It was built 1585, and is an interest¬ 
ing specimen of feudal fortification. 
Since the removal of the town walls, 
to make way for the rly., it stands iso¬ 
lated. 

Lubeck. — Inns: Stadt Hamburg; 
very good: bed, 1 mark 8 schillings; 
breakfast, 12 schill.; dinner, with 
bottle of wine and coffee, 2 marks 12 
sch.;—Diiffkes Hotel; Halms Hotel I 
[N. G.] 


at 3 o’clock, 1 mark 8 sch.; — Fiinf 
Thiirme (5 towers);—Stadt London. 

Money. Accounts arc kept in marks 
courant and schillings as at Hamburg, 
except banking accounts, which are in 
marks banco. The small current coin 
is as much worn as at Hamburg, and is 
valueless out of Lubeck. 

The Casino has a reading-room well 
supplied with papers, to which strangers 
can obtain access. 

The old Free Ilansc Town and 
seaport of Lubeck is picturesquely 
placed on a ridge between the 
navigable river Trave and the Wac- 
kenitz, which entirely encircle it. 
Pop. 37,000 ; or, including its surround¬ 
ing territory, 53,000. From its 2 main 
streets others diverge, at right angles, 
towards the water. Liibeck was 
built by the Emp. Conrad, a.d. 
1066. It was repeatedly destroyed by 
the Danes. In the commencement 
of the 13th cent, it was declared a free 
Imperial city by the Emp. Frederick 
II. At a later period it entered into, 
and subsequently became the most con¬ 
siderable of the towns forming the 
Hanseatic League, and as such de¬ 
served the name of the Carthage of the 
North. For full 4 centuries, from 1260 
to 1669, Lubeck maintained that pro¬ 
minent position, the scat of the govern¬ 
ment of the Confederation, the re¬ 
pository of its archives, and the station 
of its fleet, to the command of which 
she was entitled to appoint one of her 
own citizens. From the dissolution of 
the League, however, her importance 
diminished, and her commerce decayed, 
until she dwindled into insignificance. 

After the defeat of Jena (1806), 
Bliicher, retreating with the wreck of 
the Prussian army, and hotly pursued 
by 3 French generals, Bernadottc, 
Soult, and Murat, threw himself into 
this unfortunate town, in spite of tho 
remonstrances of its senate and citizens, 
and thereby involved it in his own 
ruin. A bloody engagement com¬ 
menced outside the walls, but con¬ 
tinued through the streets, and ended 
in the expulsion of the Prussians, and 
the sacking and pillage of Lubeck for 
3 days. The French army of 75,000 

Q 





338 


Sect. V. 


ROUTE 57 . —LUBECK. THE DOM. 


men was long quartered upon the town 
to complete its ruin and misery. 

It is an interesting town, prettily 
situated. Its haven, enlivened by ships 
and steamers, is bounded on one side 
by the quay and its picturesque or gro¬ 
tesque old houses and magazines, and 
on the other side by the lofty Ramparts , 
probably some of the largest mounds of 
earth ever raised; planted with avenues 
and laid out with walks and drives, 
from which the eye looks down on 
the water and shipping. Liibeck is 
one of the most picturesque old towns 
in Germany, its buildings being almost 
entirely of brick, and deserves more 
attention than is usually given to it by 
travellers. In external appearance its 
buildings have undergone little change 
since the 15th cent. Its houses, dis¬ 
tinguished by their quaint gables, and 
often by the splendour of their archi¬ 
tecture, its feudal gates, its Gothic 
churches, and its venerable Rathhaus, 
all speak of the period of its prosperity 
as an imperial free city. It is no 
longer independent, for since 1867 it 
is occupied by a Prussian garrison. 

Principal Buildings :—The *Dom or 
Cathedral , at the S. end of the town 
(begun 1170, and finished, after inter¬ 
ruptions, 1341), almost entirely of 
brick, is surmounted by 2 W. towers 
with spires 300 ft. high. The N. 
porch is of rich moulded brick: 
Dec. in style. It is a perfect museum 
of antiquities, and contains, in its side 
chapels, the monuments of many of the 
patrician families of Liibeck, and, in the 
choir, the tombs of numerous bishops 
and canons. The screen of the choir 
is perhaps one of the best existing 
specimens of wood carving of the early 
German school, about the period of 
Lucas Cranach. The figures are the 
size of life, full of expression, and ad¬ 
mirably executed. Eut the finest work 
of art in Liibeck is in one of the cha¬ 
pels in the N. aisle. It is a tryptich, 
with wings, covered with a double 
set of shutters. Outside the outer pair 
the Annunciation is represented in gri¬ 
saille. The first pair of shutters being 
opened, St. Blaize, St. John, St. Jerome, 
*tnd St. JEgidius are seen—noble and 


grave figures, executed in the most 
finished manner, and with the richest 
colours. When the second pair of shut¬ 
ters is opened, the Pictures of the Pas¬ 
sion are seen in 3 compartments, each 
having a principal subject; but Mending, 
as was usual with the early masters, 
both German and Italian, has introduced, 
in no less than 23 distinct groups placed 
in the background, many of the events 
previous and accessory to the principal 
event set forth. The main group on 
the shutter on the left hand of the spec¬ 
tator represents Christ hearing his Cross, 
and the preceding events, beginning 
with the agony in the garden, are de¬ 
picted in the background. In the centre 
is the Crucifixion; and on the other 
shutter on the rt. are two groups nearly 
equally important, the Entombment 
and the Resurrection; the subsequent 
events until the Ascension being seen 
in the background. It is a marvel of 
art, wonderful for composition, expres¬ 
sion, colour, and finish. The picture is 
dated 1491, and not signed, but there 
can he no doubt of its being one of the 
best works of Memling. It is in the 
finest state, and was carefully washed 
and revarnished in 1845. It escaped 
a journey to Paris by being concealed 
in the roof of the Cathedral. 

The stone pulpit , with panels of ala¬ 
baster (1568), and brass font (1455), 
are both of excellent workmanship. 
According to a tradition, this church is 
built on the spot where Henry the Lion, 
while engaged in the chase, fell in with 
a stag having a cross growing between 
its horns, and a collar of jewels around 
its neck, with the produce of which the 
first church here was built. The 
legend is commemorated in two rude 
frescoes on the S. side of the nave. 
Among other curiosities is the bronze 
effigy of Bishop Bockholt in a reclining 
position, which adorns his monument, 
and a richly engraved Brass of 2 bishops 
who died 1317 and 1350. It is pro¬ 
bably the finest specimen extant of 
Flemish Brass engraving of the 14th 
cent. Observe likewise here the circular 
vaulting in the nave and cross, under¬ 
pinned and pointed; pews, cloister, and 
hall. 

The Rood-loft , with its rood of large 




Prussia, route 57. —lubeck. marienkirche. rathhaus. 339 


size and exquisite workmanship, still 
spanning the choir. 

The finest building in Lubeck is 
the * Marienkirche, date 1304, of elegant 
pointed Gothic, the most part of brick, 
even to the reeded piers, which are 
of moulded brick. It is surmounted 
by 2 W. towers 50 ft. square at the 
base, supporting timber spires 344 ft. 
high. It has three aisles, and the 
centre roof rises to the unusual height 
of 134 ft. The objects to be noticed 
in it are the Chapel at the E. end, 
resembling Beclcet’s Crown at Canter¬ 
bury ; a handsome brass screen all 
round the choir; a Dance of Death , 
dated 1463, curious for the costumes of 
the period represented in it, as well as 
for its being painted 35 years, before the 
time of Holbein ; the organ and carved 
woodwork of the Burgomasters’ seats ; 
the beautiful brass font (date 1335) and 
sacrament house; a crocketted pinnacle 
of bronze about 40 ft. high (date 1472). 
Obs. a chapel on the S. side, whose vault 
is supported by slender shafts of granite, 
each a single stone 38 ft. long; and 
the painted glass of the windows, by an 
Italian artist, Fr. Livi, who afterwards 
(1436) furnished those for the Duomo 
in Florence. Observe behind the altar, 
againsttheN. wall, a very fine old painting 
attributed to Jan Mostraet (date 1518), 
in three divisions with shutters: on 
the outside Adam and Eve; within, 
the Nativity, the Adoration of the Magi, 
and the Flight into Egypt. Another 
triptych displays, when opened, elabo¬ 
rate carvings in wood of figures and 
Gothic tracery,—all gilt except the 
flesh,—representing events from the 
Gospel history. Here are several en¬ 
graved Brasses , Flemish and German— 
one of Bruno v. Warendorf, Admiral of 
the Hanse fleet (d. 1369). The lion 
of the valets de place is a clock, behind 
the high altar, constructed in 1405, 
which sends forth at noon figures of the 
7 Electors, who march in review before 
the statue of the Emperor: each as it 
passes makes a reverential obeisance, 
and then disappears. Overbeck is a na¬ 
tive of Lubeck, and two of his most 
esteemed pictures are in this church— 

1 Christ’s entry into Jerusalem, painted I 
1824; and a l’ieta or Entombment, 1845. I 


The Katharinen Kirche , though now 
desecrated and turned into a receptacle 
for Lubeck antiquities, is a fine ch., 
and retains many altars and ornaments 
untouched, a good rood, and old paint¬ 
ings ; also old ch. plate, embroidered 
altar-cloths and vestments of 13th and 
and 14th centuries, and a fine Brass of 
the Liineburg family (1461-74). The 
Crypt , unusually lofty, and above 
ground, is laid open. The architect 
should visit the Jacobs and Egidi Kir- 
chen (with the ruined Kloster). 

The * Gothic Rathhaus , on the market¬ 
place, close to the Marienkirche, is a sin¬ 
gular building of brick. Its fronts arc 
formed by lofty screen-walls, in courses 
of red unglazed and dark-green glazed 
bricks, completely hiding the roofs, and 
supporting pinnacles at intervals. The 
N. end is probably as old as the 13th 
century. The E. front, of the 14th. It 
has been much altered. The street en¬ 
trance is by a vestibule of very neat and 
elegant design. The bronze figures on 
the door (added 1352) are very curious ; 
upstairs is a gallery with good elliptic 
vaulting. Within its walls in ancient 
times the deputies from 85 cities, in Ger¬ 
many, who composed the Hanseatic 
League , held their deliberations. Here 
were concerted those wise measures 
which raised the confederation from 
humble beginnings to a height of power 
and wealth which not only enabled it to 
establish factories in all the great cities 
of Europe, including Bergen, Novgo¬ 
rod, Bruges, and London, but obtained 
for it the supremacy of the ocean, 
enabling it to wage successful war 
against neighbouring states, with an 
army of its own 50,000 strong, to depose 
powerful monarchs and form treaties 
with great kingdoms. The beautiful 
Hall of the Hansa , in which this coun¬ 
cil met, is divided into small rooms; 
and the Rathskeller (date 1443) is 
modernised by the Restaurateur who 
occupies it, but has a fine vaulted 
roof. The senate of the town now 
assemble in the lower story. The 
presiding Burgomaster rejoices in the 
title of “ your Magnificence,” the 
learned Senators are addressed “ high 
wise,” and the merchant Senators 
“ well wise Sirs.” 

Q 2 





340 


ROUTE 58. —HAMBURG TO STRALSUND. Sect. V. 


In the Market-place is a stone npon 
which Mark Meyer, an admiral of Lii- 
beck, was beheaded for running away 
from the Danish fleet. 

One of the most curious buildings 
in the town is the *Schiffer Innung, 
(1535), or shipowners’ guild, nearly 
unaltered inside and out, and still in 
use. The lower story is entirely oc¬ 
cupied by one large hall with carv¬ 
ings, divided into 3 aisles by rows of 
stalls, with models of famous ships 
of Lilbeck, old chandelier, &c., sus¬ 
pended from the roof. 

Besides Overheck, mentioned above, 
Sir Godfrey Kneller and the brothers 
Adrian and Isaac van Ostade were 
horn here; their houses are still pointed 
out, as well as that in which Count 
Struensee lived, near the Cathedral. 

The Hospital zum Hciligen Geist is 
a well-managed institution dating from 
13th—14th cent., and consisting of a 
group of tenements under one huge roof, 
founded 1312 for 80 poor persons, has a 
singular but pretty W. front, and ante- 
chapel with carving, old paintings, pul¬ 
pit, &c. 

Well-executed carvings in wood 
(1573-85), by an unknown artist, orna¬ 
ment one of the rooms in the house of 
the Kaufleute-Compagnie , No. 800 in the 
Breitenstrasse. 

The Burg Thor , a square tower over 
a gate on the line of the old city wall, 
is a very ancient and ornamental 
building. 

Until the French gained possession of 
Liibcck, no Jews were tolerated within 
the town; they were banished to the 
neighbouring village, Moisling, which 
they still occupy almost exclusively. 

The trade of the town is con¬ 
siderable, chiefly consisting in the ex¬ 
port of grain produced in the neigh¬ 
bouring districts, and in imports of 
wine, colonial produce, and manufac¬ 
tures of its own consumption, and that of 
the surrounding countries. Great trade 
is also carried on in goose-quills for pens. 

A handsome new town has risen up 
on the N. since 1854. 

The depth of the Trave at Liibeck 
has been greatly increased by dredging, 
bo that the large steamers to St. Peters¬ 


burg, Copenhagen, Stockholm, and Dob- 
beran, start from hence. 

There is a fine avenue of lime-trees 
for some distance from the town on the 
Travemunde road. 10 m. below Lii- 
beclc (steamers twice a day) is 

Travemunde (i. e. the Mouth of the 
Trave), the former port of Liibcck, 
a pretty small bathing-place, much re¬ 
sorted to in summer by Germans of 
the upper classes. Inns: H. de Eus- 
sie; Stadt Liibeck, a bath-house with 
reading-room and library ; Stadt Ham¬ 
burg ; both good and having restaurants 
attached. There are bathing-machines 
on the shore in the English fashion 
(called English bath-coaches), and 
warm sea-baths, which cost 24 schillings. 

Steam-boats. — Berths may be secured 
at the offices at Liibeck :—to St. Peters¬ 
burg once a week, from the middle of 
May to the middle of October;—to 
Copenhagen thrice a week, in about 
20 h.; and to Stockholm once a week. 

Persons going by steam to St. Peters¬ 
burg must have their passports signed 
by the Eussian Consul before they can 
secure a berth. For all particulars re¬ 
specting a journey in Northern Europe, 
see Handbooks for Denmark , Norway, 
Sweden , and Russia. 

Eilwagen daily in 4 hrs. to Eutin; 
thence rly. to Kiel. (See Handbook of 
Denmark .) 


EOUTE 58. 

HAMBURG TO STRALSUND, BV SCHWERIN, 
DOBBERAN, AND ROSTOCK. 

36 Germ. m. = 172 Eng. m. 

Hail to Eostock in 65 hrs. ; thence 
Schnellpost daily to Stralsund in 8 to 9 
hrs. The railway from Hamburg to 
Berlin (Ete. 61) is followed as far as 
12J Hagenow Junct. Stat., whence the 
Mecklenburg Railway leads in f- hour to 
4g Schwerin Stat. (inns: H. du Nord; 
Stern’s Hotel; both good), capital of 
the Grand Duchy of Mecklenburg- 
Schwerin, 25,265 Inhab., prettily situ¬ 
ated on the Lake of Schwerin, which 
is 14 m. long. The Dom is one of the 
finest Gothic churches in N. Germany ; 
date 1365-1340, restored 1853 ; 300 ft, 
long, 102 ft. high. The chapel of the 




Prussia. 

Sacred Blood—the burial-place of the 
Grand Ducal family—has been orna¬ 
mented with paintings by Cornelius, and 
stained glass windows. The monument 
of the Duchess Helena (1524), of bronze 
(the arms of Mecklenburg and tbc 
Palatinate), was cast by Peter Vischer. 
Here are some very large engraved 
brasses of Flemish work to bishops 
of the family Biilow, 1314-75. 

The Duke’s picture galter ?/, Alcxan- 
drinen St., No. 1025, consists chiefly 
of Dutch and French works, and is 
shown daily (except Tues. and Sat.) 
11-2. Rubens, 2 daughters; P. Potter, 
2 cows; G. Dow, the Dentist; 8 por¬ 
traits by Denner. The Antiguarium 
contains objects of antiquity found in 
Mecklenburg. 

The Palace (Schloss), a vast edifice 
on an island, built 1845-58 on the site 
of an old castle, is of sumptuous archi¬ 
tecture, somewhat in the style of Cham- 
bord. It is of 4 stories, and includes 
a ch. surmounted by a dome, armoury 
and state rooms decorated by modern 
painters. It is approached by 2 
bridges, and is supposed to have cost 
half a million sterling! The gardens 
behind serve as a public walk. This 
has been the residence of the ducal 
family since 1358, excepting a short 
space from 1629, when the Emperor 
Ferdinand handed it over to Wallen¬ 
stein Duke of Friedland. 

The Antiguarium contains a highly 
interesting collection of un-historic and 
primaeval remains, chiefly found in 
Mecklenburg ; the bronzes are very re¬ 
markable. 

A grand Arsenal and barrack was 
built 1844, near the Stat. 

The Railway quits the lake on 
leaving Schwerin, to return to its mar¬ 
gin at 

Kleinen Junct. Stat.' [Whence a 
branch line diverges (1.) to 

2 Wismar Stat. (fun, Stadt Ham¬ 
burg), a seaport, with 13,130 Inhab., 
and lying at the extremity of a 
bay which forms one of the best 
harbours in the Baltic. The 3 churches 
are large, and fine specimens of 
brick-work. In St. Mary , a lofty 
and effective building, is a bronze 
font, within a railing of iron, wrought, j 


341 

it is said, by the devil. Obs. close to it 
some ornamented buildings of brick¬ 
work ; the Furstenhof, , date 1554. Re¬ 
naissance ornaments in brick-work and 
several houses of the 14th cent. 

Steamer to Copenhagen twice a week 
in 14-16 hrs.] 

[Between Wismar and Rostock lies 

2 Dobberan. — (Inns: Grosse Logier- 
haus ; Lindenhof.) Dobberan is a small 
market-town of 2200 Inhab., in sight 
of the Baltic, in a pretty country. 
It is a sea-bathing place, in a quiet 
rural situation, but has fallen off of 
late. It contains a Palace of the Grand 
Duke of Mecklenburg-Schwerin, sur¬ 
rounded by a park and garden, and 
a Gothic Church of brick, in which are 
monuments of the Grand Ducal family. 

The Gesellschaftshaus contains ball and 
concert rooms, adjoining the Pavilion in 
which the great dining-room is situated. 
Omnibus daily to the Baths , about 3 m. 
distant, on the sea-shore, at Der Heilige 
Damm , so called from a huge bank of 
shingle, on which a bath-house and 
lodging-houses have been built for 
those who prefer residing on the spot.] 

The Rostock railway is carried near 
to Biitzow, on the Wamow, and fol¬ 
lows the course of that stream to 

Rostock Stat. — Inns : H. de Russie ; 
II. du Nord, good and cheap. This 
is the largest and most populous town 
in Mecklenburg—a flourishing seaport, 
with much trade and shipbuilding ; it 
stands on the Wamow, has 28,860 In¬ 
hab., and resembles Liibeck somewhat 
in the antiquity of its buildings, all of 
bi’ick. It is the birthplace of General 
Bliicher; his statue of metal is placed 
in the square named after him, Bliichcr’s 
Platz. The house in which he was 
bom, 1742, still exists in the Alt-bet- 
telmonchstrassc. The great Ch. of St. 
Mary is very light and tall; narrow 
windows — date about 1300; obs. its 
brass font, supported on kneeling figures, 
the 4 elements; it is covered with 18 
reliefs of the Life of our Lord, date 
1200, and is one of the oldest specimens 
of mediaeval metal-work. Inscriptions 
on each side of S. door in low German 
and Latin barely intelligible. St. Nicolas 
is a brick church, part Romanesque. 
The house in which Grotius died, 1645, 


ROUTE 58. —SCHWERIN. ROSTOCK. 





342 


Sect. V. 


ROUTE 59. —HAMBURG TO HANOVER. 


is in one comer of the market-place 
close to the Rathhaus. 

The Rathhaus , with its 7 pinnacles, is 
a singular building, resembling that of 
Stralsund, but is much altered. Ohs. 
in the Hopfenmarkt an old house with 
bas-reliefs of baked clay in its front. 
The ramparts on the S. side are worth a 
visit, and form pleasantwalks. The Uni¬ 
versity of Rostock was founded in 1419 ; 
there are not more than 150 students. 
Keppler was professor here for a short 
time, appointed by Wallenstein, then 
Duke of Mecklenburg. 

A pleasant walk of f hour leads from 
the quay, by the side of the harbour, 
along the old town walls, and round the 
deep ditches of the ancient fortress: 
against the S. wall rises a tower, 
erected 1618, by Tycho Brahe, for an 
Observatory. 

Warnemiinde, on the shore of the 
Baltic, at the mouth of the Warnow 
(9 m.), is the port of Rostock, and is 
frequented by about 4000 visitors in 
summer for sea-bathing. 

Schnellpost daily to Stralsund in 10^ 
hours. 

Fine forests. The road is good as far as 

31 Ribnitz, on the backwater called 
Saaler-Bodden. 

^ Dammgarten, on the Rechnitz 
river, which forms the boundary-line 
between Mecklenburg and Prussian 
Pomerania. 

3^ Stralsund in Rte. 76. 

ROUTE 59. 

HAMBURG TO HANOVER, BRUNSWICK, OR 
HILDESHEIM. 

Railway from Harburg. Trains 
twice a-clay, in 5 hrs. The country 
over which it passes is desolate and 
monotonous, chiefly heath. 

A Double Bndge for railway and road 
traffic is proposed to be thrown over 2 
arms of the Elbe, thus beginning a 
direct line of rly. from Hamburg to 
Paris. 

Steamers .—8 times a-day, in 1 hr., 
from Hamburg across the Elbe, to 

Harburg (Inns: Konigvon Schweden, 
good; Bahnhof’s Restauration), on its 


left bank, a rapidly increasing town of 
14,268 Inhab. Passengers are landed 
from the steamer about a mile from 
the station upon an island, united by 
a wooden bridge to the town, which 
they do not enter. The view from 
the Schwarze Berg, behind Harburg, 
is fine. Diligence to Bremen, Stade, 
and Verden. 

Bardewieck, skirted by the railway, 
was the most important trading town 
in the N. of Germany before Hamburg 
arose. Only a fragment of its ancient 
Dom ch. is preserved. 

Winscn Stat. 

Liincburg Stat. (Bins: Wcllenkamp’s, 
best—bus to stat.; Deutsches Haus. 
This is a most interesting old town: 
though decayed and little visited, 
it was formerly the capital of a duchy, 
has still 15,960 Inhab., and retains 
the aspect of its primitive antiquity. 
The *Rathhaus, though altered out¬ 
side, is a real museum of art. The 
interior abounds in fine glass paint¬ 
ing, carved chandeliers, tapestry, embroi¬ 
dery, frescoes. The most important 
feature is the new Council Chamber , 
covered with compositions from sacred 
and profane histoiy, carved by 
Albert of Soest (1566-68), of very 
great merit. Here is preserved 
Hermann Billing’s drinking-horn 
of carved ivory, the Biirgereid crys¬ 
tal, an enamelled relic-box, with a 
rock crystal on the top, upon which 
the burghers of Liineburg placed their 
thumb when required to take an oath. 
It is the work of Hans v. Littart, 1444. 
In another apartment is preserved, 
under lock and key, the corporation 
plate ; many of the vessels are master¬ 
pieces of goldsmith’s work of the 15th 
cent., and there is a Madonna of silver 
2 ft. high. 

The Church of St. John , an interesting 
Gothic edifice, 14th cent., composed, as 
well as the lofty spire which surmounts 
it, of brick or terracotta, contains many 
relics of better days—a carved altar- 
piece, and the pillar which supported 
the figure of Luna . 

Many of the gable-faced houses are 
fine specimens of domestic Gothic; 
many of them retain in front the orna¬ 
mented posts, with coats of arms, which 




Prussia. 


BOUTE 60 . —HAMBURG- TO BREMEN. 


marked tlie residence of the magis¬ 
trates. 

Here are salt-springs and salt-works. 
Old walls. 

Biencnbiittcl Stat. Much moorland 
(the Liineburger Heide) is passed. 

Bevensen Stat. 

Uelzen Stat. Near this are several 
blocks of stone, perhaps Celtic remains. 

Suterberg Stat. 

Eschede Stat. 

Celle Stat. — Inns , Hannovcrischer 
Hof; Sandkrug. A town of 16,000 
Inhab., on the Aller, in the midst 
of a sandy plain. The Royal Palace , 
repaired, has a fine chapel. In the 
French garden stands a mediocre monu¬ 
ment to Matilda Queen of Denmark, 
sister of George III., who died here. 
The ancient Parish Ch. contains the 
burial-vault of the house of Brunswick- 
Liineburg. From one of its dukes, 
Ernest of Celle, who is buried here, 
the two houses of Hanover and Bruns¬ 
wick, including the Boyal Family of 
England, are descended. 

3 m. from Celle is the old Convent 
AYienhausen, containing in its ch. 
curious tapestries and painted glass. 

Burgdorf Stat. 

Lehrte J unc. Stat.—Here 41ines meet, 
from Harburg, Hildesheim, Hanover, 
and Brunswick, and passengers are 
transferred from one train to another : 
they must therefore take care that they 
get into the right one. For the route 
from Lehrte AY. to Hanover, or E. to 
Brunswick, see Rte. 66. The railway 
runs southward to 

Hildesheim Station, Rte. 72. 


ROUTE GO. 

HAMBURG TO BREMEN, OLDENBURG AND 
WILHELMSHAFEN. 

22 j Germ. m. = 109^- Eng. m. 

A good road, traversed by a schnell- 
post daily, in 12 hrs. to Bremen. Rly. 
open from Bremen to Oldenburg and 
AYilhelmshafen ; in progress from Ham¬ 
burg to Bremen. 

If Harburg. See preceding Route. 
3| Tostedt.—Inn small,but tolerable. 


343 

3f Rothcnburg. — Inn clean and 
comfortable. 

2f Ottersberg. 

3f Bremen, in Rte. 72 A. Rail to 
Oldenburg. 

2 Delmonhorst Stat. 

2 Hude Stat. 

2 Oldenburg June. Stat. — Inns: 
Erb Gross-Herzog, best; H. de 
Russie. A very dull town, in a flat 
country, on the small river Hunte, 
which is navigable up to the town. 
Capital of the Grand Duchy, since 
1867 imited to Prussia, with 13,400 
Inhab. The chief buildings are the 
Grand Duke's Palace , dating from the 
17th and 18th centy., furnished in 
a moderate style, and containing 
some very poor paintings by Tisch- 
bein. In a detached building is the 
Augusteum , a gallery of pictures, some 
of which bear great names ; but it is 
in truth scarcely worth a visit. Near 
the palace is a garden and park, and 
the Church of St. Lambert. The old 
ramparts are turned into boulevard 
gardens, and many new villas havo 
sprung up. 

From Oldenburg to Bremen Steam¬ 
ers. A Rly. runs due N. from Olden¬ 
burg by Varel and Heppens, in If horn-, 
to 

WILHELMSHAFEN (1)171, H. Den- 
ninghof). 

The King of Prussia purchased from 
the Grand Duke of Oldenburg in 1854, 
for 500,000 thalers, a tract of land on the 
shore of the Bay of Jahde, on the North 
Sea, close to, and AY. of the mouth of 
the AVeser. Upon this has been created 
the fortified naval arsenal and dock¬ 
yard of Wilhelmshafen. Outer and 
inner basins, and 3 docks, have been 
excavated in the low swampy land, 
which in the first instance had to be pro¬ 
tected from the sea by dykes. The 
outer tidal basin is flanked by piers, 
4000 and 9600 ft. long. The 3 dry 
docks are adapted for constructing 
and repairing ironclads, with factories 
for steam engines. The depth of water 
at the mouth is 26 ft. It is protected by 
batteries on the E. and AY. side of Jahde 
Bay. The cost of the whole exceeds 10 
million dollars. The huge dock-gates 
well deserve notice. 










344 


Sect. V 


EOUTE 61. —HAMBURG TO BURLltf. 


ROUTE 61. 

HAMBURG TO BERLIN.—RAILWAY. 

38 Pruss. m. = 178 Eng. m.—Trains 
in 8 or 9 hrs. 

rt. on leaving Hamburg Stat., the 
line is carried across the marsh-land 
on the north of the Elbe through the 
district of Vierland (four lands, so 
called from its having 4 villages), re¬ 
markable for its market gardens, and 
the picturesque costume of its peasantry, 
who are believed to be the descendants 
of a Dutch colony. 

2 • 1 Germ. m. Bergcdorf Stat.—A 
village belonging jointly to Hamburg 
and Liibeck—a con-dominion. 

The country traversed is, for the 
most part, entirely flat. It is a portion 
of that great plain of sand which extends 
almost uninterruptedly from Holstein 
to St. Petersburg. Generally speaking, 
it has a character of extreme barren¬ 
ness, producing little but heath and 
scanty plantations of fir. The whole 
of this vast plain is scattered over with 
rounded fragments of slate and granite 
rocks, such as nowhere exist in situ 
between the Elbe and Baltic, nor any¬ 
where nearer than the mountains of 
Norway and Sweden, from whence they 
must have been torn, and transported 
over the Baltic, but whether by some 
vast current of water, or by icebergs or 
glaciers, are questions on which geolo¬ 
gists are not agreed. These boulders 
occur above and below the surface, from 
the size of a pebble to that of a house. 

•5 Eeinbeck Stat. 

• 9 Friedrichsruhe Stat. 

1 *4 Schwarzenbeck Stat.; a great 
deal of fir forest. 

1*4 Biichen Junct. Stat.—1. [The 
branch Railway to Liibcck (Bte. 57). 
Another branch line is carried S. from 
here to the Elbe at Lauenburg. — Inns: 
Eathskeller; Schwan. A town of 3400 
Inhab., upon the Elbe, now Prussian. 
The K. of Denmark used to levy tolls 
on all vessels passing the Elbe.] 

The canal of the Stecknitz, joining 
the Elbe to the Baltic, crossed by the 
railway near Biichen Stat., is one of the 


oldest in Europe. We enter the terri¬ 
tory of Mecklenburg-Schwerin, a few 
mi les before reaching 

1*8 Boitzenburg Stat. (Klepper’slnn 
is tolerable), a small town upon the 
Elbe. 

A large part of Mecklenburg is fer¬ 
tile corn-land, contrasting remarkably 
with the sandy deserts of Lauenhurg, 
near Hamburg, and the dreary waste 
around Berlin. Upon the heaths and 
commons numerous flocks of geese arc 
fed, which furnish a large portion of 
Europe with quills, and the inhabitants 
of this country with a delicacy called 
goose-breasts, consisting of that part of 
the bird smoked and cured like bacon. 

1 • 8 Brahlsdorf Stat. 

2 • 6 Hagenow Junct. Stat. Hence the 
Mecklenburg Eailway diverges N. to 
Schwerin, Wismar, and Eostock. (Etc. 
58.) 

2 • 8 Lndwigslust Stat. (Inn, H. do 
Weimar), a town of 4000 Inhab., the 
summer residence of the Grand Duke 
of Mecklenburg-Schwerin, whose Pa¬ 
lace is the principal building. It con¬ 
tains a small cabinet of pictures , among 
them some good specimens of the Dutch 
school, and a collection of Slavonic 
antiquities, chiefly found in Mecklen¬ 
burg. hiany were dug up on the site 
of the Temple of Eadegast. Attached 
to the palace are a spacious park and 
garden. The Eussian chapel, contain¬ 
ing the mausoleum of the Archduchess 
Helena, might interest those who have 
never before seen a chapel dedicated to 
the service of the Greek Church. 

The Stables of the Grand Duke are 
extensive. He possesses a fine stud, 
and pays great attention to the im¬ 
provement of the breed. 

At the village of Wobbelin, on the 
road to Schwerin, is a cast-iron monu¬ 
ment to Komer, the German Tyrtaeus, 
poet and warrior, who fell in an action 
near Gadebusch, fighting against the 
French, 1813, a few hours after com- 
! posing his celebrated “ Schwerdtlied.” 
His remains rest under an oak, where 
they were interred by his brothers in 
arms, and a monument of cast-iron 
marks his grave. 

[At Gadebusch, said to be named 
from the Grove of the God (Gottes- 






































































8 






























































































345 


Prussia. route 61. —oadebusch. spandau. Berlin. 


Busch) Radegast, which stood here, is 
a brick church of the 12th cent. The 
circular W. window has tracery of 
bronze, and is called Radegast’s crown, 
from a tradition that it was made out 
of the idol’s crown. In the king’s 
chapel is buried Albert of Mecklenburg, 
who was King of Sweden until de¬ 
feated at Falkoping by Margaret of 
Denmark, 1388. Obs. a picture of him 
and a brass of his wife Helena of 
Brunswick.] 

1 Grabow Stat., a small town of 
Mecklenburg, containing large store¬ 
houses for butter, which is sold in 
great quantities at 6 fairs held here 
annually. 

The Prussian frontier is crossed a 
little way beyond Grabow. The rly. 
then bends S. towards the Elbe, which 
it reaches at 

4*9 Wittenbergc June. Stat. (not to 
be confounded with Luther’s burial- 
place, Rte. 63), where a Rly. branches 
off to Magdeburg and Leipsic, crossing 
the Elbe. (Rte. 74 b.) 

1 • 8 Wilsnack Stat. Very old ch. here. 

1 * 5 Glowen Stat. 

2 Zernitz Stat. (for Kyritz and "Witt- 
stock.) 

1 Heustadt on the Dosse Stat. 
[About 12 m. E. of this, near Ecu 
ltuppin, is the Chateau of Rheinsberg , 
where Frederick the Great spent many 
of his youthful years, and, according 
to his own account, the happiest of 
his life. Ziethen, one of the generals 
of the Seven Years’ War, was buried at 
Wustrau.] 

1 • 8 Friesak Stat. 

[At Fehrbellin, 9 m. N.E. of Frie- 
sack, the great Elector of Brandenburg, 
in 1675, gained a decisive victory, 
with 5000 cavalry, over the Swedes, 
11,000 strong, by which he laid the 
foundation of the future greatness of 
the House of Brandenburg.] 

1 • 7 Paulinenau Stat. 

1 • 8 Nauen Stat.— Inns: Stadt Ham¬ 
burg ; Golden Stern. A town of 3050 
inhab. The greater part of it was 
destroyed by fire in 1830. 

3 • 2 Spandau Stat. — Inn: Bother 
Adler. A strongly fortified town of 
7000 Inhab., at the junction of the Spree 
with the Havel, which is here crossed 


by the railway. These rivers afford 
the means of inundating the surround¬ 
ing country, in the event of a hostile 
attack. Its citadel stands on an island. 
The Church of St. Nicholas , a Gothic 
edifice of the 16th cent., contains 
several monuments, and a very ancient 
metal font. The Penitentiary , once 
the Palace of the Electors of Branden¬ 
burg, is admirably managed, and is 
capable of containing 500 prisoners. 
Steamer to Berlin in summer. 

rt. About 3 m. before reaching Ber¬ 
lin the railway crosses the Spree, near 
the Palace and Gardens of Charlotten- 
burg. (See below.) 

Berlin Stat. near the Cemetery of the 
Invalids, outside the Ncu Thor, and 
not far from the Model Prison (Zellen- 
Gefangniss). 

1*5. Berlin.— Inns: *H. du Nord, 
one of the best;—H. de Rome (Stadt 
Rom), improved;—*H. de Peters¬ 
burg, very good; capital table- 
d’hote, 1 Thr. 5 S. gr., including a 
bottle of good Mosel;—Meinhart’s 
Hotel, highly respectable and mode¬ 
rate;—H. Victoria (table-d’hote) ;—H. 
Royal; — British Hotel: all situated 
Unter den Linden. H. de Russie;—II. 
d’Angleterre, near the Bau-Academic, 
highly recommended;—II. des Princes, 
Behrenstrasse; — II. de Brandenburg, 
Charlottenstrasse, comfortable; Mark- 
graf’s H. de l’Europe, 16 ? Tauben- 
strasse, family and commercial. 

Charges , &c., see § 50. Table-d’hote, 
without wine, 20 S. gr.; rooms, from 
20 S. gr. upwards; breakfast, 8 or 10 
S. gr. ^ 

Cafes. —Kranzler,25 Linden; Stehely, 
Charlottenstrasse (many newspapers) ; 
Josti, Stechbahn. 

Restaurants. —Dinner hour 3 to 5. 
Meser, 23 Linden; Cafe de l’Europe, 
27 Linden ;—Cafe Royal, 38 Linden: 
both resorted to by ladies; Wcr- 
dersche Miihlcn, 2 Schlossplatz;—• 
Maison Dorde, 14 Schadowstrassc; 
—Belvedere, at the back of the Rom. 
Cath. Ch. 

Post office, Ho. 19, Spandauerstrassc, 
is open from 7 a.m. to 8 f.m. Letter¬ 
boxes in various streets, as in London. 

Post-Restant Office , 60 Konigstrassc, 
first court. 

Q 3 







346 


ROUTE 61.—BERLIN. 

Schnellpost office , No. 60, IvOnigs- 
strasse. 

Droscliliies or cabs (open or shut 
carriages). Fares for lor 2 persons : a 
drive 6 S. gr.; 3 or 4 persons, 10 S. gr.; 
by the hour, 15 and 17£ S. gr., 1 or two 
horses alike. Every driver is hound to 
present to his hirer a printed ticket, 
hearing his number. 

Omnibuses traverse the city in all 
directions : Schlossplatz to Brandenburg 
Gate; from the Kreutzberg, through 
the Friedrichsstrasse, to the Panlce ; 
from the Molken-markt to the Botanic 
Garden; from the Lustgarten to Moabit. 

A Valet de place receives usually 1 
dollar 10 S. gr. per diem. 

Baths , 23, Louisenstrasse, 19, Schut- 
zenstrasse, and 19, Neue Friedriehs- 
strasse. 

English Church. — Service every Sun¬ 
day at 11 in a hall of the Montbijou 
Palace (granted for the purpose by the 
king), aided by the British minister. 
The chaplain depends a good deal 
upon casual visitors and travellers for 
stipend. 

Time-Table of Sights. —N.B. Refer to the 
Tags- Telegraph , a daily paper. 

Daily , except Sunday : Royal Pa¬ 
lace, 10—4. Daily , except Tuesday : 
Museum of Pictures, Sculpture, &c. 
New Museum, 10—4. Public Library, 
9—1. Cabinet of Engravings, 10—4. 
Raczynski Picture Gallery, 10 — 3. 
Zoological Garden. Bethanien, 10—4. 
Changing Guard, 11 A.M., and Military 
Band opposite the Guard-house. 

Sunday. —Waterworks at Sans-Souci, 
3—6. The two Museums, 12—4. 

Monday. —Modcls of Fortresses, 9—2. 

Tuesday. —Gems and Coins, and Me¬ 
diaeval Collection in Museum, 10—4. 
Cabinet of Natural History, 12—2. 
Schinkel’s Museum, 11—1. Pictures 
in Bellevue, 10—1 and 2—6. Sans- 
Souci Waterworks. 

Wednesday .—Vases and Bronzes in 
Museum, 10—4. Anatomical Mu¬ 
seum, 4—6 summer ; 2—4 winter. 

Royal Library, 9—12. Arsenal, 10—4. 

Thursday .—Models of Fortresses, 
9—2. Wagner’s Picture Gallery, 10— 
1. Waterworks at Sans-Souci, 3—6. 

Friday .—Gems and Coins and Mc- 


1NNS. EXHIBITIONS; Sect. V. 

diseval CoUection in Museum, 10 4. 

Cabinet of Natural History, 12—2. 
Schinkcl’s Museum, 11—1. Pictures 
in Bellevue, 10—land 2—6. Botanic 
Garden. 

Saturday. — Royal Library, 9—12. 
Anatomical Museum, 4—6 summer ; 

2—4 winter. Arsenal, 2—4. 

Berlin, the capital of Prussia and 
of N. Germany, stands on the Spree, 
a small stream with a very sluggish 
current; which, however, by means 
of canals, communicates with the 
Oder and the Baltic on the one 
hand, and flows into the Elbe on the 
other. Population, 702,437 (it was 
250,000 in 1832); of whom 22,600 
are soldiers of the garrison, 16,000 
Jews, 6000 French Protestants, de¬ 
scendants of exiles driven out of 
Franc.e by the intolerance of Louis XIV., 
and 20,000 Rom. Catholics. It is the 
residence of the King and of the foreign 
ministers, and the seat of government 
of Prussia, as well as of the Federal 
Council (Bundes Rath) for the affairs 
of the States composing the N. German 
Confederation. The North German 
Parliament meets here. The great 
number of soldiers gives to Berlin 
almost the air of a camp. 

The city is situated in the midst of a 
dreary plain of sand, destitute of either 
beauty or fertility; “an oasis of stone 
and brick in a Sahara of sand.” It is 
sui-prising that the foundation of a 
town should ever have been laid on 
such a spot; but it is far more wonder¬ 
ful that it should have grown up, 
notwithstanding, into one of the most 
flourishing and magnificent cities of 
Europe, a great manufacturing and 
commercial centre, and the fitting 
capital of a great empire. Previous to 
the reign of Frederick I. it was an 
unimportant town, confined to the rt. 
bank of the Spree, and to the island on 
which the Palace and Museum now 
stand. Since that time, in 150 years, its 
population has increased tenfold, its 
limits have extended until its walls are 
12 miles in circumference, and it 
abounds in magnificent buildings. Its 
plan is like a comet, of which the old 
town is the small body, and the new 






Prussia. 


ROUTE 61. —BERLIN. SOCIETY. 


tlie long expanding tail. Since 1830 it 
lias also become a great manufacturing 
town. Owing to the want of stone in the 
neighbourhood, the larger part even of 
the public buildings are of brick and 
plaster; still there is much to admire in 
the modern architecture of the city, and 
especially of the private houses on the 
outskirts, the Thiergarten, &c., which 
display originality of design and ele¬ 
gance of taste, not surpassed in build¬ 
ings of the same class in London or 
Paris. The flatness of the ground and 
the sandy soil produce inconveniences 
which the stranger will not be long in 
detecting. But at least Berlin is now 
well-supplied with fresh water pumped 
up from the Spree by 8 steam-engines. 

The mere passing traveller in search 
of amusement will soon exhaust the 
sights of Berlin, and may find it less 
attractive than most of the great 
European capitals. The stranger com¬ 
ing to reside here, provided with good 
introductions, may find an agreeable 
literary society among the professors of 
the University, many of whom enjoy a 
European celebrity. The society of 
the upper classes is on the whole not 
very accessible to strangers, nor is hos¬ 
pitality exercised to the same extent 
among them as in England, chiefly 
because their fortunes are limited. The 
hotels of the diplomatic corps are an 
exception, and in them the most agree¬ 
able soirees are held in the winter 
season. 

The finest buildings in Berlin are 
concentrated in the very small space of 
£ m. between the Palace (Schloss) and 
the Brandenburg Gate, or very near it. 
Few European capitals can show so 
much architectural splendour as is seen 
in the colossal Palace, the beautiful 
colonnade of the Museum, the chaste 
Guard-house, the great Opera, and the 
University opposite. These, with the 
Arsenal, by some considered a most per¬ 
fect specimen of architecture (?), in the 
city, and the Academy of Arts, are all 
within a stone’s throw of one another, 
and the greater part may be seen by 
turning round on one’s heel, while the 
two churches and theatre in the Gen¬ 
darmes Platz are not many paces off. 

Most of these buildings are situated 


347 

in the street named Unter den Linden , 
from a double avenue of lime-trees ,, 
which form a shady walk in its centre, 
while on each side of it runs a carriage 
road. It is the principal and most 
frequented street in this city. The 
view along it is terminated by the 
magnificent 

^Brandenburg Gate (built 1789-92)— 
an imitation of the Propylaeum at 
Athens, but on a larger scale. The 
car of Victory on the top was carried 
to Paris as a trophy by Napoleon, but 
it was recovered by the Prussians after 
the battle of Waterloo, who bestowed 
upon the goddess, after her return, 
the eagle and iron cross which she now 
bears. This gate cost 75,000/. 

The Prussians have exhibited their 
gratitude and respect to the memory 
of the worthies of their country, in the 
statues of them erected in the streets 
and squares of the capital. Those to 
whom this honour has been paid are, 
without exception, military heroes. 
The Government has rendered only 
tardy justice to the greatest of them all, 
* Frederick the Great , to whom a monu¬ 
ment, perhaps the grandest in Europe, 
was erected in 1851, in the -Unter den 
Linden, opposite Prince William’s 
Palace and the University. It consists 
of an equestrian statue in bronze, 
modelled by Rauch , on a granite pedestal 
25 ft. high, presenting on each face 
bronze groups of the great military 
commanders of the Seven Years’ War, 
on foot and horseback, all the size of 
life, and all portraits, in high relief. 
The most prominent figures are those 
of his four best generals, the Duke of 
Brunswick, afterwards the commander 
of the allies against Dumouriez and the 
forces of the French Convention, Prince 
Heinrich of Prussia, General Seydlitz,. 
and General Ziethen. The standing 
figures include all the military cele¬ 
brities of the period. One of the 
faces of the pedestal contains, between 
the statues of Seidlitz and Ziethen, the 
figures of three statesmen, Count Finck 
von Finckcnstein, Frederick’s minister 
of foreign affairs; von Schlaberndorf, 
who did so much to keep the finances 
in order during the worst periods of the 
war ; and Count von Carmer, the state 






348 


ROUTE 61. —BERLIN. FREDERICK THE GREAT. Sect. V. 


chancellor, who completed the code 
known as the Allgenueine Landrecht , and 
reorganised the whole legal system. 
Three other names connected with the 
arts and science are also found in this 
division—Graun, Frederick’s favourite 
musical composer, Lessing, and Kant. 
The whole number of portrait figures, 
the size of life, on the four faces of the 
pedestal, is thirty-one. To reproduce 
them correctly the best authorities have 
been consulted, and authentic drawings, 
busts, and medals of the period, have 
been strictly followed. 

Beneath the figures are two tablets 
inscribed with the names of 80 distin¬ 
guished soldiers of the age of Frederick, 
whose portraits could not be given. 
The third side bears the names of 16 
statesmen, artists, and men of science 
of the epoch. The fourth or front 
tablet has the following simple inscrip¬ 
tion :— 

“ To Frederick the Great, Frederick 
"William III., 1850 ; completed by Fre¬ 
derick William IV., 1851.” 

Above the figures there is at each 
corner a female figure representing the 
four cardinal virtues—Prudence, Jus¬ 
tice, Fortitude, and Temperance. Be¬ 
tween them are bas-reliefs, emblematic 
of different periods of the monarch’s life; 
by a mixture of the ideal and reality, 
his birth, his education—civil and mili¬ 
tary—and his career before and after 
he became king, are represented with 
simplicity and neatness. In the second 
relief a muse is teaching the young- 
prince history, pointing out to him the 
names of the commanders he most ad¬ 
mired—Alexander, Caesar, and Gustavus 
Adolphus. In the third Minerva is 
giving him the sword. Another pre¬ 
sents the King after his defeat at 
Kolin, sitting on a waterpipe, looking 
earnestly on the ground, on which he 
is drawing the lines of a plan with his 
cane. The other reliefs exhibit him 
encouraging the arts of peace ; he is in 
the hut of a Silesian linen-weaver ex¬ 
amining his web ; or playing the flute, 
on which instrument he was a pro¬ 
ficient ; or walking in the gardens of 
Sans Souci, surrounded by his favourite 
greyhounds. The last tablet contains 
his apotheosis. 


The equestrian statue itself is 17 ft. 
3 in. high ; it represents the monarch 
“ in his habit as he livedin the cos¬ 
tume of the period. Even the queue, to 
our ideas not only unsightly but un¬ 
natural, has been displayed boldly. 
The stick carried by a band from the 
right wrist, the three-cornered hat, the 
pistol holsters, and all the accoutre¬ 
ments of the horse are minutely copied 
from the relics preserved of the Great 
King. 

On the Long Bridge leading from the 
Konigsstrasse to the Schloss Platz is 
the equestrian statue of the Great 
Elector Fred. Wm ., in bronze, designed 
by Schlliter, and possessing consider¬ 
able merit as a work of art. 

Opposite the Grand Guardhouse 
(Haupt-wache) stands the bronze statue 
of Blucher, a spirited figure, well exe¬ 
cuted; the pedestal is decorated with good 
bas-reliefs ; on his right is Gneisenau, 
on his left York. Facing him, on each 
side of the Guardhouse, are the marble 
statues of Generals Billow von Bennewitz 
and Schamhorst , the reformer of the 
Prussian army after the battle of Jena, 
and the founder of the present military 
system of Prussia. These three statues 
are by the sculptor Rauch. 

The cannon and mortars behind the 
Guardhouse were brought from Paris, 
1816 ; the mortars were cast in France, 
to be employed in the siege of Cadiz, 
and are the fellows of the one in St. 
James’s Park. The cannon originally 
came from Liibeck, and was carried otf 
by the French in 1806. 

In the square called Wilhelms Platz , 
near the Potzdam Gate, are the statues 
of six heroes of the Seven Years’ War, 
the Prince of Anhalt-Dessau, Generals 
Ziethen, Schwerin, Winterfeld, Keith, 
and Seidlitz. They arc for the most 
part of little merit as works of- art, and 
the classical togas and armour in which 
some of them are dressed out are 
incongruous and in bad taste. 

The Churches are not the objects 
which will attract the most notice in 
Berlin. In St. Nicholas , a Gothic 
edifice of different periods, in the old 
town, is the tomb of Puffcndorf , who 
died here in 1690. Pie was historio¬ 
grapher, privy counsellor, and judge at 





Prussia. ROUTE 6i.—BERLIN. cathedral, churches. 349 


the court of Frederick William, Elector 
of Brandenburg. 

The Cathedral (Dom) between the 
Palace and the Exchange, built 1747, 
is ugly in its exterior, and within has 
hardly the air of a church. It is the 
burial-place of some ancestors of the 
Royal Family, of the Great Elector, 
and Frederick I., King of Prussia, 
in gilded coffins. The bronze effigy 
of the Elector John Cicero, cast by 
a Burgundian artist, in 1540,—that 
of the Elector Joachim, made by one 
Adam Yischer of Nuremburg,—and a 
mosaic of St. Peter, given by Pope Pius 
VII. to the late King, on one side of 
the altar, deserve notice. The “ Berlin 
Choir,” who sing Mendelssohn’s Psalms, 
unaccompanied by instrumental music, 
on Sunday (10 a.m.), should be heard 
by all lovers of sacred music. Con¬ 
tiguous to the Dom, a cloister on the 
plan of the Campo Santo at Pisa is 
intended for a royal burial-place, and 
is to be adorned with frescoes by Cor¬ 
nelius. 

The two churches in the Gens- 
darmes Platz are admired for their 
architecture. The Catholic Church of 
St. Hedwig is a poor imitation of the 
Pantheon. The Garnisonhirche is at¬ 
tended by the soldiers of the garrison: 
the nmsic is good. It contains paint¬ 
ings by Khode, of no great merit, and 
very inappropriate to a chinch, repre¬ 
senting the death of some of the gene¬ 
rals of the Seven Years’ War. Against 
the walls are hung tablets bearing the 
list of names of those who fell in the 
war of liberation, 1813-15—a similar 
memorial will be found in almost every 
parish church in Prussia, with the 
simple inscription, “ They died for their 
King and Fatherland.” 

Modern Churches. 

The Church of Friedrichsicerder is 
a modern Gothic structure, designed 
by Schinkel. It is of brick, and the 
mouldings, window tracery, cornices, 
corbels, and other ornaments usually 
cut out of stone, are of terracotta. 

St. Peter's is another fine Gothic 
Church, also of brick, with towers 300 
feet high, by Straclc, arch. 

St. Michael, near Bethany Hospital 


(Soller, arch., '1856), a Romanesque 
edifice for the Roman Catholics, is said 
to be the finest in Berlin. Kiss made 
the statue of St. M. on the pediment. 

The Jews’ Synagogue, Oranienberger- 
strasse, is perhaps the most costly one in 
Europe ; splendid within and without; 
enriched with gilding and painting ; in 
fact no expense has been spared by 
the wealthy Hebrew community here. 
It is lighted by gas from without, in a 
very skilful manner. Friday evening 
at 6^ is the time to see the service : 
very fine vocal and instrumental 
music. 

The Schlossbriicke is decorated with 
8 groups of marble statues: Victory, 
by E. Wolf; Minerva, by Schievelheim ; 
Minerva arming a warrior, by 3holler; 
Victory crowning the victor, Drake; 
Victory supporting a wounded warrior, 
Weihman; Minerva exciting to com¬ 
bat, by A. Wolf; Minerva protect¬ 
ing a combatant, Bldser ; Iris convey¬ 
ing to Olympus a fallen warrior, by 
Wredow. 

The open space laid out with walks 
and flowerbeds, and planted with trees, 
called Lustgarten, is surrounded on 
three sides by the Palace, Museum, and 
Cathedral. In front of the Museum is 
a gigantic basin of polished granite 22 
feet in diameter. The block out of 
which it was formed was a vast isolated 
boulder, known as the great Markgra- 
fenstein, and lay at Fiirstenwald, nearly 
30 m. from Berlin. 

At the Palace gate, on the side of the 
Lustgarten, stand bronze horses and 
grooms, imitated from those on the 
Monte Cavallo, Rome, by Cloot, gifts of 
the Empr. Nicholas. The Berliners have 
nicknamed them Gehemmter Fort- 
schritt, and Bcfbrdcrtcr Ruckschritt. * 

The Royal Palace, or Schloss, built 
chiefly by Frederick the Great’s father, 
is indebted to its size for the marked 
air of grandeur which its exterior pos¬ 
sesses. Within it is sumptuously fur¬ 
nished ; the state apartments are shown 
by the castellan, who lives in the 2nd 
court on the 2nd floor. The principal 
features are the Chapel under the dome, 
built and fitted up 1848-54, and the 
paintings by living artists, including por- 
* Progress checked—Retrogression encouraged. 







350 


Sect. V. 


ROUTE 61. —BERLIN. THE ROYAL PALACE. 


traits of princes of the royal house and 
other remarkable Germans, with which 
it is decorated. In the Rittersaal 
(Knights’ Hall), is the throne and a side- 
hoard covered with massive old plate of 
gold and silver. In the White Hall, sump¬ 
tuously fitted up at great cost(120,000L), 
and decorated with the statues of the 
12 Brandenburg Electors, and 8 alle¬ 
gorical figures representing the Prus¬ 
sian provinces, the first meeting of the 
Prussian Parliament was held, April, 
1847. The most interesting rooms 
are those which were inhabited by 
Frederick the Great, at the corner 
of the building facing the Schloss 
Platz, and nearest to the long bridge 
on the first floor. In the vari¬ 
ous apartments hang paintings of 
Charles I. and his Queen Hen¬ 
rietta, by Van Dyk — Marriage of 
St. Catherine, by Giulio Romano —Virtue 
quitting the Earth, Mars and Venus, 
by Rubens — Napoleon crossing the 
Great St. Bernard, by David —and in 
the White Hall a portrait of Frederick 
William III. of Prussia, by Sir Thos. 
Lawrence , a present from Geo. IV.— 
Queen Victoria, by Hay ter. There are 
some good works of the modern German 
school: Leonore (Burger’s), by Lessing . 

In former times, according to vulgar 
belief, this building was haunted by the 
ghost of a Countess of Orlamunda, 
called the White Lady , who appeared 
only to announce calamity to a member 
of the royal family. 

The Palace of the Crown Prince 
Frederick William of Prussia , and his 
consort the Princess Royal of England, 
is a handsome edifice* with portico and 
wings, opposite the Zeughaus* fitted up 
for the royal pair 1857. It was pre¬ 
viously the residence of King Frederick 
William III., in which he lived and 
died; and 100 years earlier Frederick 
the Great, when Crown Prince, lived 
in it. 

The *Old Museum , facing the Lustgar- 
ten.—This very handsome edifice was 
finished in 1830, from the designs of the 
distinguished architect Schinkel; its 
foundations are laid on many thousand 
piles, as the spot on which it stands 
was previously a branch of the Spree, 
which has been filled up. 


At the rt. side of the staircase is 
the well-known magnificent group in 
bronze, representing the combat of an 
Amazon with a tiger by Kiss. On the 
1. side a horseman contending with a 
lion, by A. Wolf. 

Under the Portico are statues of 4 
great Prussian artists and antiquaries, 
—Rauch, Schinkel, Winkelman, and 
Schadaw. 

The walls of the noble colonnade, run¬ 
ning along the front, have been adorned 
with frescoes executed under the direc¬ 
tion of Cornelius from the somewhat 
fantastic designs of Schinkel. They are 
in a style of composition common in 
German art, and require an explanation 
of the obscure allegories which they 
contain. They profess to illustrate alle¬ 
gorically the history of the formation 
of the universe and the intellectual de¬ 
velopment of mankind. On the 1. of 
the entrance, on ascending the steps, 
are represented “the sun in his chariot 
rising from the sea to give light to the 
world. In the clouds which reflect his 
glory are the Graces. A choir of harpers 
in the clouds announce the rising of the 
sun. The life of the day is represented 
by various allegories. The grand and 
beautiful female who spreads over her¬ 
self a mantle, under which several 
groups of sleepers repose, is the Night. 
Selene shedding light drives her chariot 
through the night. Saturn and the 
Titans withdraw into the gloom of past 
time. Lastly, Uranus is leading the 
dance of “ the starry hostV On the 
right of the entrance the spring of Ima¬ 
gination rises up under the stroke from 
the hoof of Pegasus. Morning and 
Spring of Life :—shepherd races in the 
enjoyment of nature by poetry, and 
games of strength and activity. Be¬ 
ginnings of art in the outlines of 
shadows. Summer and Midday :—the 
harvest and its joys. Behind the water¬ 
fall from the fountain of poetry, re¬ 
sembling a veil, sit the Fates in the 
lap of the earth; while everything 
draws animation and strength from the 
fountain. Evening and Autumn:— 
vintage, workshops of artists, and dis¬ 
covery of the Corinthian capital. War¬ 
riors return home, and Age is delighted 
by the visit of the Muses. Night and 



Prus. 


sia. 


ROlfTE 6i.—BERLIN. OLD MUSEUM. 


351 


Winter:—the wise man watched by 
Psyche investigates the coui'se of the 
stai's. The moon descends into the sea. 


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The grey-headed old man is absorbed 
in considering the elements. The 
seaman launches out into the ocean 
over which the moon sheds its 
light. 

The collection which the 
Museum contains consists of 
—a. The Antiquarium, on the 
ground floor.—b. The Sculp¬ 
ture Gallery, on the 1st floor. 
—c. The Picture Gallery, on 
the upper story. A catalogue 
is almost indispensable. 

1. The Antiquarium ( En¬ 
trance under the bridge at the 
back of the Museum) con¬ 
sists of— 

Collection of Vases , Bronzes , 
§c.—Admittance , Wed., 10 to 
4. The Vases amount in 
number to 1600. They are 
exceedingly well classified, ac¬ 
cording to country and shape, 
and those bearing designs on 
the lower side, arranged upon 
tables of looking-glass. The 
contents of this portion of the 
Museum are principally de¬ 
rived from the collections of 
Bartholdy, Prus. minister at 
Rome, Baron Koller, Austrian 
commander at Naples, and 
from that formerly in the 
Palace. From its nature it 
is better calculated to interest 
the antiquary than the gene¬ 
ral observer. 


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a. Antiquarium .' l 

b. Sculpture Gallery, Gods and Heroes. 


Office. 


b. Sculpture. 


Court. 


b. Medieval 
Sculpture. 



Old Museum. 


a. Ground Floor. 

b. First Floor. 



























































































































352 

Among the most remarkable objects in 
bronze are the following:—An extensive 
series of Roman Penates, or Ilouseholcl 
Gods; Roman arms, armour, spear, back 
and breast plates, greaves for the legs, 
and various utensils ; a sacrificial axe, a 
large circular shield, a small statue of 
an elephant, of good workmanship. 
There are numerous articles in terra¬ 
cotta, and various inscriptions on stone 
and metal. 

Collection of Gems and Coins. — Ad¬ 
mittance, Tues. and Fri., 10 to 4. 
Among the 2814 gems, are many first- 
rate works, from the collection of Storsch; 
acarnelion with the SevenbeforeThebes; 
portrait of Pompey; young Hercules, 
Jupiter, Serapis, and Ceres. 

b. Mediaeval Collection. — Admittance , 
Tues. and Fri., 10 to 4. Here are some 
fine specimens of the painted and glazed 
earthenware called Majolica , made in the 
duchy of Urbino in the 15th and 16 th 
cent., and other objects of a higher 
order of art, also in baked clay painted 
and glazed. Among these may be 
noticed—(668, 674, and 675) busts of 
Pier Soderini, Lorenzo de’ Medici, and 
Machiavelli; a Virgin and Child, school 
of Michael Angelo; and a large altar- 
piece by Luca della Robbia , a beautiful 
high relief of clay gilt, representing 
the Trinity. Other objects deserving of 
attention are—the golden shrine of St. 
Patroclus, brought from Soest, of veiy 
beautiful workmanship (date 1313?); 
a richly embossed silver dish of cinque- 
cento work, possibly by Benvenuto Cel¬ 
lini ; and some painted glass. There is 
a catalogue costing 7^ Sgr. 

b. The entrance to the Sculpture 
Gallery is through a grand circular 
hall extending the whole height of the 
building, and very imposing from its 
size and proportions. Around it are 
antique statues, while above hang 
9 original tapestries worked from the 
cartoons of Raphael; they once be¬ 
longed to Henry VIII. and were pur¬ 
chased on the sale of Charles I.’s effects 
by the Duke of Alba. The antiqui¬ 
ties, principally composed of the col¬ 
lection of Cardinal Polignac, are 
with few exceptions not above me¬ 
diocrity as works of art, and a 
large part of them are much indebted 


Sect. V. 

to modem restorers. There is, how¬ 
ever, at least one exception. The Boy 
praying is one of the finest antique 
bronze statues in existence; it was 
found in the bed of the Tiber (140)— 
Apollo restraining Hercules from car¬ 
rying away the Delphic tripod, a bas- 
relief (81).— A Venus (113).—Daughter 
of Niobe (217).—A Wrestler (129).— 
A Eacchante (130).—The procession of 
Bacchus and Ariadne (146).—Bust of 
Julius Caesar; it used to stand on the 
table of Frederick the Great (295);—a 
hero or Mercury, found at Syra, 1831, 
the head and ■ arms modem ; — Bust 
of Pericles (396); — Canova’s Hebe 
—are almost the only others worth 
notice. 

c. The *Picture Gallery , on the upper 
story of the building, is composed of 
a selection from the paintings formerly 
in the Royal Palaces of Berlin, Sans 
Souci, and Charlottenburg, the Gius- 
tiniani collection from Venice, and the 
pictures of Mr. Solly, an English mer¬ 
chant, besides valuable works collected 
by v. Rumohr and others. 

The Berlin Gallery ranks below the 
Galleries of Munich and Dresden in 
works of first-rate excellence, but it has 
good specimens of a great number of 
masters, especially of the early German 
and Italian schools. For those who 
are desirous of studying the history 
and progress of the art, from the By¬ 
zantine schools, through those of Flo¬ 
rence and Sienna, to its period of ex¬ 
cellence, and thence to trace its gradual 
decay, there can be no better oppor¬ 
tunity than is here afforded them. 

The arrangement, due to the late la¬ 
mented Director Waagen, combining the 
chronological order with the classifica¬ 
tion according to schools, is admirable, 
and the whole collection complete and 
most instructive. 

The gallery is divided into 37 ca¬ 
binets or compartments, each distin¬ 
guished by a number over the entrance. 
In the 4th cabinet, on the 1. of the 
entrance, begin the Italian schools ; on 
the one next to it, i. e. the 5th from the 
entrance, begin the Flemish schools. 
These two cabinets therefore may be 
considered as points of departure. If 
the spectator continue on to the 1. he 


ROUTE 61. —BERLIN. PAINTINGS. 




Prussia . 


ROUTE 61.— —BERLIN. PAINTINGS. 


353 



will pass in succession through the 
cahinets devoted to Flemish art, com¬ 
mencing with the Yan Eycks and end¬ 
ing with the followers of Rembrandt and 
Rubens; if he take an opposite direction, 
to the rt., he will find in regular order 
the works of the schools of Venice, Lom¬ 
bardy, Rome, Bologna, &c. 

The gallery is by no means deficient 
in fine works of the great Italian mas¬ 
ters, but it is particularly rich in the 
Flemish and Dutch schools. Among the 
pictures which appear most deserving 
of attention are the following :— 

Italian School.—Andrea Mantegna; 
28. Angels weeping over Christ. Titian; 

166, portrait of his daughter Lavinia. 

167, Moroni, fine. Correggio; 218, Leda 
and the Swan; 216, Io and the Cloud, 
a repetition of that at Vienna, hut 
inferior to it, as the flesh seems to have 
faded, and the shadows to have become 
black. These 2 pictures formed the 
gems of the gallery of the Regent Duke 
of Orleans; his son, from prudish mo¬ 
tives, cut out the heads of Io and Leda, 
and burnt them, and cut the picture of 
Leda to pieces ; luckily they were pre¬ 
served, and purchased by Frederick the 
Great for Sans Souci. The existing 
heads are insertions; that of Io was 
painted by Prudhon, a French artist. 
The Leda was injuriously retouched by 
the French, who removed the picture 
to Paris, hut has been restored to its 
original condition, and a new head 


painted for it by a German artist. 
Pinturicchio ; 133, the Adoration of the 
Magi. There is an interesting altar- 
piece by Raphael’s father, Giovanni 
Santi. 139, the little child with folded 
arms, opposite to St. John, is supposed 
to represent Raphael at the age of 3 
years. Raphael; 247, Virgin and Child, 
called Madonna di Casa Colonna; in 
his best manner. Another Holy Family, 
with the Adoration of Magi, called Ma¬ 
donna Ancajani, from a family of that 
name at Spoleto, its former owners, is 
the largest picture by Raphael in Ger¬ 
many, after the San Sisto at Dresden; 
but unluckily it is half destroyed. 
And. del Sarto ; 246, Sta. Julia, in his 
best manner. Fra Bartolomeo ; 249, 
the Assumption of the Virgin. Fran¬ 
cesco Francia; 122, the Virgin in Glory 
worshipped by 6 Saints. Giacomo Fran¬ 
cia; 287, the Virgin and Child, with 
St. John the Baptist, the Magdalen, S. 
Agnes, S. Dominic, and S. Francis. 
Vittore Carpaccio ; 23, St. Peter or¬ 
daining Stephen and 6 other Deacons. 
Filippo Lippi; 69, The Infant Saviour 
adored by the Virgin. Luini ; 217, Vir¬ 
gin and Child. Tintoret; 316, St. Mark 
and 3 Procurators of Venice. Sabbat- 
tini da Bologna; 335, the Virgin on a 
throne with 3 Saints. Ludovico Caracci; 
371, Christ feeding the 5000. Guido 
Beni; 373, the Hermits Paul and An¬ 
thony discoursing. 

Spanish School. — Murillo; 414, St. 


































































354 


Sect. V. 


ttOtfTE 6i.—BURLIN'. OLD MUSEUM. 


Anthony of Padua embracing the Infant 
Christ ; Port, of Card. Azzolini. Zur- 
baran; 415, Christ bound to the Pillar. 
Alonzo Cano; 414 b, St. Agnes. 

Michael Angelo Caravaggio; 359, Christ 
in the Garden. Sassoferrato; 419, Joseph 
and the Infant Christ. Carlo Dolce; 
423, St. John the Evangelist. Luca 
Giordano; 441, the Judgment of Paris. 

French School. — Nicolas Poussin : 
463, Landscape, with the story of 
Juno and Argus. 467, the Education 
of Jupiter. Lesueur ; 466, St. Bruno. 

Flemish and Dutch Schools.—John and 
Hubert Van Eyck; 12 paintings which 
formed the side wings or shutters of the 
famous altar-piece known as “The 
Worship of the spotless Lamb,” in the 
Ch. of St. Bavon, at Ghent, where the 
central portion still remains. (See Rte. 
21.) They are decidedly the finest 
works which the Berlin Museum pos¬ 
sesses. They represent (512) the Just 
Judges; the man on the white horse 
is the painter Hubert Van Eyck; the 
figure in black, looking round, is his 
brother John. 513, The Soldiers of 
Christ: here are introduced portraits 
of Charlemagne and St. Lewis. 514, 
515, Angels singing and playing. 516, 
The Holy Hermits. 517, The Holy 
Pilgrims. At the back of the above 
6 pictures are painted the 6 follow¬ 
ing. (Once every day the shutters 
are reversed by the guardians of the 
museum; so that those which were 
exposed in the morning are turned to 
the wall in the afternoon, and visitors 
have an opportunity of seeing both.)— 
518, John the Baptist. 519, Portrait of 
Jodocus Yyts, Burgomaster of Ghent, 
for whom the picture was painted; the 
expression of piety and devotion in the 
countenance is most truthfully depicted. 
520 and 521, The Annunciation, the 
Angel Gabriel, and the Virgin. 522, 
Elizabeth, wife of Jodocus Vyts. 523, 
St. John the Evangelist. These ad¬ 
mirable pictures were finished 1432.— 
Roger v. d. Weyden. 534, Descent from 
the Cross : nothing can exceed the soft¬ 
ness and minute finish of the female 
faces, while the expression of grief in 
the Virgin and Magdalen is most true 
to nature. — An altar-piece in 3 com¬ 
partments. 535, The Birth of Christ.— 


The Sibyl of Tibur announcing the 
Birth of Christ to Augustus.—The 3 
Kings adoring the Saviour.—A triptych, 
subj ects from life of John Baptist. Mem- 
ling; 533, Elijah fed by Angels. 539, a 
Jewish family eating the Passover.— 
Quentin Matsys; 561, Virgin and Child. 
Lucas Cranach; 593, The Fountain of 
youth. 619, portrait of Melancthon. 
618, portrait of Luther, with musta- 
chios, as the Junker (Squire) George, 
taken while he was concealed in the 
castle of the Wartburg : interesting.— 
Christopher Amberger; 583, portrait of 
the geographer Sebastian Munster.— 
Hans Holbein; 586, portrait of George 
Gyzen, a merchant of London. Rubens ; 
763, The Daughter of the painter.— 
783, The Resurrection of Lazarus.— 
781, St. Cecilia.—758, Helena Forman, 
his 2nd wife.— Van Dyk ; 782, portrait 
of Prince Thomas of Carignan. 786, 
portrait of a Daughter of Charles I. in 
a blue dress , with a white lace apron, 
beautifully painted. 799, St. John Bap¬ 
tist and St. John Evangelist. 787, The 
Three Penitent Sinners, the Magdalen, 
the Prodigal Son, and King David, be¬ 
fore the Virgin and Child.—790, por¬ 
traits of the Children of Charles I. with 
a Dog.— Teniers; 856, Peasants in an 
Alehouse. 859, The Temptation of S.t. 
Anthony, a very humorous picture: 
there is a great deal of whim and drol¬ 
lery in the devils. Under the figure of 
the Saint, Teniers has portrayed him¬ 
self ; the younger woman is his wife, 
with a little bit of a devil’s tail peeping 
from under her gown ; the old woman 
was his mother-in-law, a more decided 
devil, with horns and claws. — Rem¬ 
brandt ; 802, portrait of Duke Adolph 
of Gueldres, shaking his clinched fist 
at his father; a masterpiece of the 
artist; a powerful representation of 
uncurbed passion.— Jacob Ruisdael; 884, 
a sea-piece, with Amsterdam in the 
distance.— Jan Both ; 863, a landscape 
with a him ting party.— De Heem; 963, 
a flower and fruit piece. — Francis 
Snyders ; 974, a bear hunt.— Balthazar 
Dernier ; 1014, a portrait of a man, 

elaborately executed, was purchased for 
10,000 dollars (about 1500/.). 

The third division of the gallery is 
occupied with works of the earliest 




Prussia. 


ROUTE 61. —RERUN. NEW MUSEUM. 


period of art, which may he regarded 
as the antiquities of painting , and are 
interesting, almost exclusively in an 
historical point of view, as illustrating 
the progress of the art. They consist 
of Byzantine, Italian, and early German 
and Flemish works. 

In the rear of the Museum, and con¬ 
nected with it by a covered bridge car¬ 
ried over the street upon columns, is 
the *New Museum , designed by Stiller, 
a striking and original building, and in 
internal decoration the most splendid in 
Berlin. Besides the peculiar decorations 
of the Hall and grand staircase described 
further on, each apartment is orna¬ 
mented more or less with fresco paint¬ 
ings, arabesque borders, &c., having re¬ 
ference to the objects contained in it. 

a. On the ground floor are arranged— 
1st. The Northern Antiquities —relics of 
the early Sclavonic and Teutonic races, 
dug up in N. Germany and Scandinavia 
—celts, arrowheads, and other arms, 
and known as Un- or Pre-historic, 
found in the Tumuli, Dolmens, or Huns’ 
graves; descending to antiquities of 
Roman times dug up in Prussia. The 
walls are covered with subjects derived 
from the mythology of the Edda, &c. 
2nd. Ethnological Collection , illustrative 
of the manners and customs of different 
parts of the world, especially of savage 
nations; such are a cloak of feathers, 
presented by Tamehameha, K. of the 
Sandwich Islands, with a complimentary 
letter, to the late K. of Prussia, in return 
for which he received the full uniform of 
the 2nd Pegt. of Prussian Guards—a 
model of a Chinese lady’s foot, to show 
the manner in which they are pinched 
and contracted—a filligree silver case, 
like a claw, nearly three inches long, 
worn by ladies of rank in China to pro¬ 
tect their finger-nails, which it is 
the fashion to let grow to that length 
—coloured pieces of paper used instead 
of napkins at dinner—a variety of Chi¬ 
nese dresses, among them the military 
uniform of a captain—a lasso from S. 
America—a cigar smoked by the ladies 
of Lima, 1 £ foot long and thick in pro¬ 
portion—large disks of wood inserted 
by the Botocudos Indians in their ears 
and under-lips—tattooed head of a New 
Zealander — weapons brought from 


35$ 

Africa, hy Ehrenberg the traveller— 
an Australian necklace of human teeth 
—staves covered with Punic inscrip¬ 
tions carved on them, and a Punic 
almanac cut on 12 tablets of wood— 
the costumes of Mexico, in a series of 
coloured wax figures—copies of two 
of Northcote’s pictures, by Chinese 
native artists,. very well executed—a 
vast assortment of Chinese musical in¬ 
struments ; the modern invention of the 
mouth harmonica was taken from one 
of them—Japanese weapons: one of 
the most formidable is a sort of scythe 
fixed vertically upon the end of a long 
pole—saddle of the Pasha of Shumla. 
The Asiatic collection was chiefly formed 
by Kruger. 

a. On the rt. of the great staircase, 

Egyptian Antiquities , occupying 5 
apartments, decorated with imitations of 
genuine examples of Egyptian paintings. 

The collection was commenced by M. 
Passalacqua and General Minutoli, and 
is one of the most curious in Europe. 
To this have been added the acquisitions 
made by Lepsius, in Egypt, 1845. 

The inner court is arranged as the 
court of an Egyptian temple, sur¬ 
rounded with pillars, and within are 
statues of gods and kings, Phamses, &c. 
The entrance-court, with its 16 huge 
coloured pillars, is copied from the ves¬ 
tibule of the Temple of Camac. The 
Chamber of Tombs is a restoration of part 
of the Necropolis of Memphis; 3 tombs 
brought away by Lepsius having been 
rebuilt. In addition to mummies, sca- 
rabsei, statues of Apis, coins, &c., which 
may be found in other cabinets, there 
exists here a collection of arms, imple¬ 
ments used in various arts, utensils of 
all sorts, &c., laying open the whole 
household economy of the Egyptian 
nation, as it existed some thousands of 
years ago, all in such perfect preserva¬ 
tion as to give a wonderful insight into 
the state of arts and habits, condition 
and civilization of the Egyptians at that 
remote period. 

Specimens of the produce of a great 
many trades are here to be seen. Gar¬ 
ments nearly as fine as muslin ; a pair 
of braces ! said, by Champollion, to have 
belonged to an Egyptian monarch ; san¬ 
dals ; a medicine chest filled with drugs, 




356 


route 61.-—Berlin, new museum. 


Sect. V. 


in alabaster phials, is also supposed to 
have belonged to a king. 

By the side of the figures of the 
various Egyptian deities are placed the 
symbols belonging to each, worn, it is 
supposed, as amulets on the person. 
Among them is a beetle, with the head 
of a sphinx. An assortment of the vari¬ 
ous kinds of cloth and linen found upon 
the mummies shows great perfection 
in the art of spinning and weaving. 

The objects for the decoration of the 
person include mirrors of brass, pins of 
brass and ivory, necklaces, one of which 
was borrowed by the Duchess of Berry 
to wear at a Parisian fancy ball. Spe¬ 
cimens are shown of the various balsams 
and asplialtum used in embalming. It 
is a curious fact that mummies are now 
imported into Europe for the use of 
apothecaries and painters, on account of 
the bitumen they contain. The instru¬ 
ments used in embalming, the Ethi¬ 
opian knives of sharpened flint, and the 
brass hooks with which the brain was 
extracted through the nostrils, are per¬ 
haps peculiar to this collection. It 
would be tedious to give more than a 
slight enumeration of other objects, such 
as arms, spears, bows, and arrows, &c.; 
a plough; a spindle ; distaff, and comb 
for flax; measures of rope and wood 
divided by knots or notches ; a painter’s 
palette and paint-box with sliding lid. 
7 different colours are preserved here. 
Herodotus mentions only 4. Part are 
placed in small shells, as is the modern 
practice. Writing materials ; archi¬ 
tect’s apparatus; dice; weights; san¬ 
dals, and shoes of leather and palm- 
leaves ; fishing-nets, with floats formed 
of calabashes ; musical instruments; the 
flute and sistrum; mummies of the 
sacred animals worshipped by the 
Egyptians, as cats, fish, serpents, young 
crocodiles, frogs, ibises, lizards, all em¬ 
balmed and wrapped in cloths ; a human 
monster, without brain or spine, em¬ 
balmed—it has been described by Geof¬ 
frey St. Ililairo. Perhaps the most 
curious objects in the whole collection 
are the contents of the tomb of an 
Egyptian high priest, discovered and 
opened by Passalacqua in the Necropo¬ 
lis of Thebes. The body was enclosed 
in a triple cotfln. By the side of it were 


deposited the sacred wand or priest’s 
rod, the skull and leg-hones of an ox, 
branches of sycamore, and 2 models of 
Egyptian vessels (such as navigated the 
Nile 3000 years ago), neatly finished 
and completely rigged, having on board 
a dead body, and a party of mourners 
accompanying it to the tomb. 

“ Broad stairs lead in a single flight 
from the ground floor of the New 
Museum to a lofty hall in the middle 
of the building. Here the pupils 
of Kaulbach , Echler and Muhr, have 
painted after his designs:*—1. The 
Destruction of Babel and Dispersion of 
the Nations. 2. Greece in her prime. 
3. Destruction of Jerusalem, by Titus : 
—in the centre, the High Priest 
killing his family and himself; rt., a 
Christian family taking to flight, an ex¬ 
quisite group. * 4. Battle of the Huns. 

5. Conversion of Wittikind to Christi¬ 
anity, by the agency of Charlemagne. 

6. Crusaders before Jerusalem. These 
pictures have been executed by the 
new method of painting in water¬ 
colours, called Stereo-chromic or Was- 
serglass-Malerei. The wall is first 
saturated with ‘ Wasserglass,’ a solu¬ 
tion of silica or flint in alkali; on 
this ground the painting is executed 
with ordinary water - colours; when 
finished it is again varnished with the 
same preparation, which forms, as it 
dries, a thin transparent coating — a 
true glass, capable, it is said, of resist¬ 
ing the action of acids, and having 
somewhat the appearance of china- 
painting.”— R. 

The rooms on the first floor contain a 
valuable and extensive collection of casts 
of works of sculpture from the earliest 
Greek down to Thorwaldsen, all beauti¬ 
fully arranged. 

One half of the Upper Floor , which 
is of iron, roofed with pots, is de¬ 
voted to the cabinet of Drawings and 
Engravings , including several designs 
for cartoons of Raphael, the original 
sketch for the Dom of Cologne. 

I he other half is set apart for the 
works of art composing the 

*Kunstkamrner (Chamber of Art). Its 
collections, are admirably arranged in 

* Engravings of these have been published 
by Alexander Duncker. 






Prussia. 


357 


ROUTE 61. —BERLIN. NEW MUSEUM. 


beautiful galleries, the chronology of 
the specimens being marked on the 
cases, and are well worth seeing; 
they are open to the public from 10-4 
every day but Monday and Saturday. 

The Historical Collection is highly 
interesting, as illustrating in many in¬ 
stances the characters and lives of re¬ 
markable men, and it is for the most 
part undoubtedly authentic. It con¬ 
tains the model of a windmill made 
by Peter the Great, with his own hands, 
while working as a ship-carpenter in 
Holland.—The Robes of the Orders of 
the Garter given by George IV., and of 
the Holy Ghost given by Louis XVIII., 
to Frederick "William III.: between 
the two is the scarlet dress of a Doctor 
of Civil Law given to him by the Uni¬ 
versity of Oxford, on the occasion of 
his visit in 1814. The hussar dress 
and cap, surmounted with a black eagle’s 
wing, worn by the Prussian General 
Ziethen;—two cannon balls, each with 
one side flattened, are said to have been 
fired by opposite parties in the siege of 
Magdeburg, and to have met together 
in the air! 

Some of the relics here preserved are 
peculiarly national, such as — a cast 
taken after death from the face of Fre¬ 
derick the Great,—the bullet which 
wounded him in the battle of Rossbach, 
1760,—a wax figure of him clothed in 
the very uniform he wore on the day 
of his death ; the coat is rusty and tar¬ 
nished, the scabbard of the sword is 
mended with sealing-wax by his own 
hand; his books and walking-cane, his 
baton, and the favourite flute, his solace 
in hours of relaxation, are carefully 
preserved here, along with his pocket- 
handkerchief, which he used to the 
last; it is a dirty rag, very tattered, 
though patched in many places. This 
confirms the description of Dr. Moore, 
who visited the palace in Frederick’s 
life-time. “ The whole wardrobe con¬ 
sisted of two blue coats, faced with 
red, the lining of one a little torn ; two 
yellow waistcoats, a good deal soiled 
with Spanish snuff; three pairs of yel¬ 
low breeches, and a suit of blue velvet 
embroidered with silver, for grand occa¬ 
sions. I imagined at first that the man 
had got a few of the king’s old clothes, 


and kept them here to amuse strangers; 
but, upon inquiry, I was assured that 
what I have mentioned, with two suits 
of uniform which he has at Sans Souci, 
form the entire wardrobe of the king of 
Prussia. Our attendant said ho had 
never known it more complete.” 

Near the figure of Frederick is 
a glass-case containing the stars, 
orders, and decorations presented to 
Bonaparte by the different sovereigns 
of Europe, one of the most conspicuous 
being the Prussian black eagle : Eng¬ 
land alone, it appears, contributed none. 
They were taken by the Prussians after 
the Battle of "Waterloo, in his carriage, 
from which he escaped so narrowly 
that he left his hat behind him, which 
is also preserved here. Not far off are 
Blucher’s orders. A cast in wax from 
the face of the beautiful queen Louisa 
of Prussia. A cast of Moreau’s face, 
taken after death. The camp chair of 
the great Gustavus Adolphus. Fre¬ 
derick the Great’s father’s collection of 
well-used tobacco-pipes. The cap and 
sword worn by the Great Elector at 
the battle of Fehrbellin. A white dress 
that belonged to Murat is so fantastic 
in shape, and gaudy in gold lace, as 
fully to explain and justify the nick¬ 
name of Fran coni, given him by Bona¬ 
parte. Two executioner’s swords, re¬ 
markable on account of the persons 
whose heads have been cut off by 
them. 

A rich and elaborately ornamented 
cabinet, called the Pomeranian Chest , 
was made at Augsburg, 1617, for Phi¬ 
lip II. Duke of Pomerania, and is a 
mine of art in itself. A great variety 
of articles made of amber, and many 
specimens, rough and cut, of this mi¬ 
neral, which is found in great quantities 
within the Prussian dominion. 

Among the works of art in this mu¬ 
seum are a head carved in wood, by A. 
Diirer. A bas-relief of Orpheus and 
Eurydice, in bronze, by Peter Vischer. 
An ivory crucifix, attributed to M. 
Angelo. A large basin with bas-reliefs 
in ivory. The Descent of the Fallen 
Angels, an elaborately minute carving 
of many figures in ivory. The whole 
Life of Christ minutely carved in wood. 
A battle piece, by A.. Diirer. An ex- 



358 RTE. 61. —BERLIN. ROYAL LIBRARY. READING-ROOM. Sect. V. 


tensive collection of carvings and 
reliefs in ivory, gold and silver plate, 
cups and vases enriched with bas- 
reliefs and precious stones. An ele¬ 
phant’s tusk carved with hunting 
scenes, is probably a work of the 10th 
cent. The old ivories and enamelled 
reliquaries are very fine. Here are 
some cups of Bottcher’s original red 
Dresden china-ware, and 2 pale ones 
with Gothic patterns, very rare spe¬ 
cimens. Baron Trenck’s drinking cup, 
engraved by him while in prison. Lu¬ 
ther’s beer jug, very large measure. A 
very beautiful series of miniature por¬ 
traits ; among them Gustavus Adolphus 
and his daughter Christina. 

The Royal Library (entrance in the 
Opern - Platz), a tasteless building, 
which owes its shape, it is said, to a 
whim of Frederick the Great, who 
desired the architect to take a chest of 
drawers for his model, contains about 
500,000 vols. and nearly 5000 MSS. 
It is shown to strangers on application 
to the Librarian, Wed. and Sat., 9— 
12. Among its curiosities are — Lu¬ 
ther’s Hebrew Bible, the copy from 
which he made his translation, with 
marginal notes in his own hand. The 
MS. of his translation of the Psalms, 
with his corrections in red ink. The 
Bible and Prayer-book which Charles 
I. carried to the scaffold, and gave be¬ 
fore his death to Bishop Juxon : Gu- 
temberg’s Bible of 42 lines in a page 
(on parchment, date 1450-55), the first 
book on which moveable type was used. 
A consular diptych of ivory with re¬ 
liefs, date 416, one of the earliest 
known. The Codex Wittekindii, a 
MS. of the 4 gospels, given, it is said, 
by Charlemagne to Wittekind (?); it is 
of the 9th or 10th cent., and the ivory 
carvings in the binding are in the style 
called Byzantine. Several Ivories (dip- 
tychs) of the earliest Christian times, 
and of Roman work. An album, with 
6 beautiful miniature portraits, by Luke 
Cranach ; among them are his friends 
Luther, Molanchthon, and the Elector 
John Frederick of Saxony. 36 vols. of 
engraved portraits of distinguished men 
of various times and countries, accom¬ 
panied by autographs in alphabetical 
order. Two hemispheres of metal, with 


| which Otto Guericke made the experi- 
! ments which led him to discover the 
| air-pump, are also preserved here, 
j When he had exhausted the air be¬ 
tween them, he found that the force of 
; 30 horses was unable to separate 
I them. 

The Public Reading-room of the Li- 
1 brary, where books may be consulted, is 
open daily. Inhabitants of Berlin, and 
even resident strangers properly recom¬ 
mended, are allowed to take books 
home with them Tinder certain restric¬ 
tions. There is a private reading-room 
on the ground-floor, in which the new 
books and principal journals of Europe 
are deposited. Admission can be ob¬ 
tained by a ticket from one of the head 
librarians, which is only given to per¬ 
sons known to them. It is open daily 
from 10 to 12. 

The University (Unter den Linden) 
established in J 809, possesses a high re¬ 
putation from the talent of its teachers 
and a better system of discipline than 
Jena and Heidelberg. It ranks among 
the first academical establishments in 
Germany, especially as a medical school, 
and is the most numerously attended 
(after that of Vienna), the students 
amounting to 1500. 

The Museum of Natural History is 
within the 1. wing of the building. The 
Zoological Collection is open Tuesdays and 
Fridays from 12 to 2. This collection 
is one of the richest and most extensive 
in Europe, especially in the department 
of Ornithology ; it includes the birds 
collected by Pallas and Wildenow, and 
the fishes of Bloch. The best specimens 
are those from Mexico, the Red Sea, and 
the Cape. The whole is exceedingly well 
arranged and named for the convenience 
of students. 

The Minerals are shown at the same 
hours, by tickets given by the director, 
who resides in the house. Among the 
curiosities of this collection are—a piece 
of amber weighing 13 lbs. 15 oz., the 
largest known, and worth 10,000 dols. 
It was found at Schlappacken, 20 Germ, 
m. from the Baltic. Malachite from 
Russia. Topazes of 2 distinct colours, 
yellow and amethystine. A mass of 
platina, weighing 1088 grains, and a 
splendid fiery opal, both brought from 






Prussia, rte. 61. —Berlin, arsenal, palaces, academies. 359 


South America by Alex, von Humboldt. 
A large portion of the collections made 
by him during bis travels in America 
and Asia are deposited here. 

The Anatomical Museum in the rt. 
wing will be highly appreciated by the 
medical student—it is one of the best 
in Europe, particularly rich in prepara¬ 
tions of human and comparative ana¬ 
tomy. It is shown Wednesdays and 
Saturdays, from 4 till 6 in summer—2 
to 4 in winter, by tickets. 

The Botanic Garden , belonging to the 
University, outside of the town, is de¬ 
scribed further on. 

The Arsenal (Zeughaus), esteemed a 
building of almost faultless architecture, 
was erected in 1695. Above the win¬ 
dows round the inner court are 22 
masks, admirably carved in stone by 
Schliiter, representing the human face 
in the agonies of death. On the ground- 
floor are cannon and artillery of various 
kinds, such as 2 leather guns, used by 
the GreatGustavus in the 30 years’ war; 
a field-piece named die schone Taube 
(beautiful dove) ; a damasked cannon ; 
2 Turkish pieces. On the first floor are 
ranged 100,000 stand of arms. These 
apartments form a kind of Military 
Museum. Specimens of the arms and 
accoutrements used in every army 
in Europe are deposited here. There 
are fire-arms, from those used at the 
first invention of gunpowder to the 
most perfect made in the present day. 
7 bunches of the keys of captured for¬ 
tresses—some taken from the French. 
A standard, and the key of Adrianople, 
taken from the Turks by the Russians 
in the war of 1828-29, presented by 
their emperor. Against the walls and 
pillars are hung nearly 1000 stand of 
colours, French, bearing the dates and 
emblems of the Revolution, captured by 
the Prussians in Paris, 1815, and 
Austrians. Admission by tickets, which 
may be had of the Commandant opposite 
the Zeughaus, and which the valet de 
place will procure. 

The Palace of Prince Karl , 9, Wil- 
helms-Platz, fitted up by Schinkel, 
contains a very choice and valuable col¬ 
lection of armour. A shield of beaten 
silver, with raised groups in the style of 
B. Cellini, and the Faiscrstuhl, an arm¬ 


chair of bronze, from the Dom in Goslar, 
deserve mention. 

The Palace of Prince Albert , 102, 
Wilhelms Strasse, also arranged by 
Schinkel, is a handsome building, and 
is shown to strangers. 

Count Raczynski’s Gallery , in a man¬ 
sion on the Exercier-Platz, outside the 
Brandenburg Gate, contains interest¬ 
ing specimens of modem German art 
—the finished Sketch of Iiaulbach’s 
Battle of the Huns; a Sposalizio, by 
Overbcck; Sohn’s Two Leonoras; Leopold 
Robert’s last work; Cornelius’s Christ 
in Limbo, &c. Also fine specimens 
of Bellini , Francia, Luini , Steinle , Ben- 
deman, and Fuhrich. 

The Academy of Fine Arts , Untcr den 
Linden, was placed by Frederick the 
Great above the Royal Stables; hence 
some one proposed to inscribe over the 
door “ Musis et Mulis.” An exhibi¬ 
tion of modern works takes place here 
annually between September and De¬ 
cember. 

Here is placed, for the present, an 
infant National Gallery of Paintings , the 
nucleus of which is formed by the 
cabinet bequeathed to the Government 
by Consul Wagener , containing choice 
works chiefly by artists of the schools 
of Munich and Dttsseldorf, Achenbach , 
landscape : Adam, a stable : Biefve , the 
Compromise ; Gallait, Calame, &c. 

The Ravene Cabinet, Neue Griin-str., 
is a small select collection also of modern 
German and French paintings. The 
best are upstairs, in the saloon, &c. 
Gallait, Bohemian Musicians; II. 
Vernet, the Zouave Nurse; Tidemand , 
Norwegian Funeral; Troy on, Cattle ; 
Achenbach , Ostend; Hildebrandt , Winter 
Landscape ; Meissonnier, Man Reading ; 
Delaroche , Storm at Sea. 

Alex, von Humboldt lived at 67, 
Oranienbergstrasse, near the Syna¬ 
gogue. 

The Iron Foundry (Eisengiesserei), 
outside of the Oranienburg-gate, where 
the well known black cast-iron orna¬ 
ments are made, was much damaged 
by Republican violence during the at¬ 
tempted revolution of 1848. A great 
variety of articles, as busts, statues, 
bas-reliefs, copies of pictures, monu¬ 
mental slabs, joists, beams, and rafters 







360 


ROUTE 61. —BERLIN. INSTITUTES. THEATRES. Sect. V. 


for houses, and even bells, are cast 
here. 

When the final struggle commenced 
between Prussia and Napoleon, the 
Prussian ladies sent their jewels and 
trinkets to the royal treasury to assist 
in furnishing funds for the expense of 
the campaign. Pings, crosses, and 
other ornaments of cast iron, made 
in this manufactory, were given in 
return to all those who had made 
this sacrifice. They bore the in¬ 
scription “ Ich gab Gold um Eisen” (I 
gave gold for iron), and such Spartan 
jewels are, at this day, much treasured 
by the possessors and their families. 
The black varnish with which the iron 
ware is covered, to prevent rust, is made 
of amber dissolved, and linseed oil mixed 
with lamp black. 

At Moabit , beyond the Spree, is 
Borsig's Machine Factor//, employing 
3000 men. The hot houses are warmed 
by the water escaping from the steam 
engines, and deserve notice. 

The China Manufactory was founded 
by Frederick the Great: the painting is 
very good. Both in lightness of fabric 
and in elegance of design it has much 
improved since the first Great Exhibi¬ 
tion in 1852. 

The Taub-Stummen-Institut, Institu¬ 
tion for instructing the deaf and dumb , 
situated in the Linicn Strasse, Nos. 81 
and 82, is a very interesting establish¬ 
ment. 

The Geu-erbe Schute, School for Trade, 
is an establishment of a kind only re¬ 
cently introduced into Great Britain. 
It is a school for instructing gratuitously 
promising young artisans in drawing, 
modelling, and other branches of the 
fine arts calculated to be of practical 
use in their trade, with a view of 
improving the designs of articles of 
furniture and patterns in stuffs of all 
sorts, and the like. 

The Architectural Academy (Bau- 
schulef S. of the Schlossbriicke, esta¬ 
blished under the direction of Schinkel, 
is one of the most original constructions 
of that skilful architect, now no more. 
It is of red brick, and the external or¬ 
naments are of the same material, i. e. 
of terracotta, or clay moulded and 
baked. Within may be seen some 


paintings and sculpture, also by 
Schinkel. 

The Studios of some of the Berlin 
artists deserve to be visited. They are 
situated in the Thiergarten, outside the 
Brandenburg Gate. The late Professor 
Cornelius’ studio is close to the Raczyn- 
ski Palace. 

The Exchange , in. the busy Kdnig- 
strasse, near the Post-office, is a good 
specimen of modem architecture, erected 
by subscription of the wealthier Berlin 
merchants. 

In the new quarter of the town, ris¬ 
ing on the S. side of Berlin and ap¬ 
proached by the Kopnickerstrasse, is 
Bethanien (Bethany), a castellated edifice 
erected 1850, and devoted to the chari¬ 
table pm-poses of an hospital for the sick, 
who are attended by Deaconesses, 

‘ ‘ charitably-minded Christian maidens.” 
Both the architectural and economical 
arrangement of this institution are on 
the most liberal scale, and it well merits 
notice. 

Theatres. —1. Italian Opera House , 
rebuilt 1845, after a fix-e, is a building 
of great splendour near tlie Linden. In 
it German opei-as are performed, gene¬ 
rally 3 or 4 times a week alternately 
with the Sehauspielhaus, though in 
winter the Opera is open every day. It 
holds 2000 spectators. The Box-office is 
in the lower story. Opera begins at 
62 , and is over by 10 . 

2 . Royal 'Theatre (Ivonigliehcs 
Sehauspielhaus), built by Schinkel, 
in 1819, lie's between the two churches 
in the Gens d’Armes Platz. It is 
decorated with a good deal of sculp¬ 
ture, by Rauch and Tieck, repre¬ 
senting mythological subjects. The 
performances consist of German and 
French plays alternately : an excellent 
French company resides here perma¬ 
nently. It is a great treat to see a 
Greek tragedy, such as the Antigone of 
Sophocles, performed here, the stage 
and theatre being fitted up as nearly as 
possible in the ancient Grecian classic 
style. The stage is on the second 
floor of the building, so that it is 
necessary to go up stairs even into the 
pit. Adjoining it is the Concert Room , 
holding 1200 persons, much admired 
for its architectural proportions and the 

















Prussia. 


361 


ROUTE 61. —BERLIN. 

taste of its decorations. Besides Con¬ 
certs, a certain number of Subscription 
Balls take place here in winter. The 
king and royal family are often present. 
Begins at 6. 

3. Konigstadt Theater , 90, Char- 
lotten Str. 4. Fried- Wilhelm-Stadti- 
sches Theater, 14, Schumann Str. 
Begin at 6. Low comedy and bur¬ 
lesque, well acted. Parterre , best 
place, 22i S. gr. 

5. Wallner Theater , a popular house, 
frequented by the best classes, to see 
burlesque and farce. 

The Sing Academie (see § 42) is a 
private association of from 200 to 300 
amateurs, male and female, of the re¬ 
spectable and upper classes, who meet 
together to practise every week during 
the whole year, and give annually 
several delightful concerts, to which the 
public are admitted, in the tasteful 
Grecian building of the Academy, designed 
by Ottmar, behind the Grand Guard¬ 
house. The performance of sacred 
vocal music is probably not carried to 
greater perfection in any part of Europe 
—the strength of the chorus, and the 
perfect precision and unity of so many 
voices is very striking. 

Good music may also be heard at 
Stern’s and Liebig’s Concerts in summer 
daily, also the Symphony Soirees in the 
Royal Opera Concert rooms. 

The Winter Gardens are coffee-houses 
under glass—conservatories filled with 
exotic plants, provided with tables for 
refreshments, and newspapers. They 
are splendid and popular establishments, 
where excellent dinners, music, &c., are 
provided. *KrolFs , in the Thiergarten, 
contains a dining and concert hall, 336 
ft. long, 95 ft. wide, and theatre. Ad¬ 
mission, 5 S.gr. ; best places, 15 S. gr. 
extra. The ices are good. There 
is a tablc-d’hdtc on Sundays, at 15 
S. gr. a head. 

liestaurateurs , where dinner and sup¬ 
per are served a la carte. The best 
are Mielentz’s, No. 28, and Mein- 
hardt’s, or Cafe Royal (very superior 
cuisine), No. 33, Unter den Linden. 
(Meinhardt’s is now an hotel, with an 
excellent table d’hote.) Tietz, 25, Unter 
den Linden. Borchardt, Franzosische- 
strasse; excellent dinner, a la carte. 

[N.G.] 


restaurants, shops. 

Cafe do la Gaiete, Charlottenstrasse, 60. 
Peculiar delicacies of the Berlin cuisine 
are the Sandra , or pike-perch, a very 
delicate fresh-water fish ; Teltower Ru¬ 
ben (very small and sweet turnips, 
resembling parsnips in shape, from 
Teltow, a neighbouring village). 3 or 
4 is the fashionable hour of dinner in 
Berlin. 

Supping-house for bachelors, very 
good, is Mittelhans, Neander Strasse. 
Half a roast fowl and “ Seidel wein” 
for 9 S. gr. Company entirely German. 

The Merchants’ Club is over the Ex¬ 
change, to which a banker will intro¬ 
duce you to read the papers. An 
introduction from the English minis¬ 
ter will procure admission to the Club 
of Nobles. Newspapers of all coun¬ 
tries may be seen at the Zeitungs Hallo 
OberwaJI Strasse, Nos. 12 and 13. 

The Confectioners’ shops (Condito- 
reien), corresponding nearly with the 
cafes of Paris, supplying ice, coffee, 
newspapers, &c., become the general 
lounge and resort about 1 or 2 o’clock, 
it being a usual practice here to take 
a cup of chocolate in the middle of the 
day. The best are Stehelys , 36, Char- 
lotten Strasse, behind the Schauspiel- 
haus, where French, German, and Eng¬ 
lish journals, including the Times 
and Galignani, are taken in. Josti, 1. 
Stechbahn (good bonbons) ;— Krans- 
lcr, 25, U. d. Linden (capital ice); 
Spargnapani, U. d. Linden, 50. 

Tobacco is both cheap and good at 
Berlin. A cigar costing 6d. in Eng¬ 
land, for 1 S. gr. 

The lower classes resort to the wine 
and'beer-houses (Bierlokale), which, in 
splendour, may vie with the gin palaces 
of London, and are nearly as much 
crowded, and as injurious to public 
health and morals. The best are (where 
men sup after the theatre),—for Berlin 
Weissbier, Yolpi, Stechbahn, 3, and 
Mohren Strasse, 37 a.; Klausing, Zim¬ 
mer Strasse, 80;—for Bavarian beer, 
Happold, Grim Strasse, 1; "Wallmuller, 
Jager Strasse, 33. 

The Tum-halle , or Hall for Gymnastics, 
in Xopnicker Feld, Prinzen Strasse, 
erected by the municipality, at a cost 
of 17,000?. (Gerstenberg, architect), 
affords space for 600 gymnasts to exer- 

R 



/ 


362 ROUTE 61. —BERLIN. ENVIRONS. CHURCHYARDS. Sect. V. 


cise at once. The public are admitted 
to a gallery running round the arena. 
It is open every evening but Sunday. 

The Wilhelms Gymnasium , a High 
School, built and endowed by the 
present King, Victoria Strasse (Lohse, 
architect). 

The best shops are in the TTnter den 
Linden, Schloss Platz, Breito Strasse, 
in the Bauschule, and between the 
Schloss and the Opera House, Konigs 
Strasse, and Behren Strasse. Among 
the articles peculiar to Berlin, and best 
worth purchasing, are the trinkets, 
ornaments, busts, bas-reliefs, &c., of 
cast-iron; the pictures in transparent 
China (Lithophanies) ; amber trinkets, 
Hirsch, 26, Linden. Gerson’s shop, 
10, Belle Vue Strasse, is the Swan and 
Edgars of Berlin. 

Pistor and Martins, the best makers 
of philosophical instruments, 34, Mauer 
Strasse, sell admirable microscopes. 

MM. Asher and Co., booksellers, 20, 
IJnter den Linden, have a large stock 
of English, French, and German works; 
Guide Books ; besides old and rare 
books. 

Railroads' Termini — to Potsdam, 
Magdeburg, and Hanover, outside the 
Potsdam Gate ;—to Leipzig and Dres¬ 
den, outside the Anhalt Gate ; — to 
Hamburg, outside the New Gate;—to 
Stettin, outside the Oranienburg- Gate ; 
—to Frankfurt on the Oder, Danzig, and 
Breslau, near the Stralauer Platz; to 
Danzig, Konigsberg, Posen, Bostock. 

Environs .—The gates of the city 
were originally named after the places 
to which they led, but the great lines 
of high roads have been so much 
changed, that it is not now the Halle 
Gate, but the Potsdam Gate, which 
leads to Halle, nor the Hamburg Gate 
which leads thither, but the Branden¬ 
burg Gate ; and to proceed into Silesia 
you issue out of the Frankfurt, not the 
Silesian Gate. 

At Tegel, 9 m. beyond the Oranien¬ 
burg Gate, long seat of ¥m, von Hum¬ 
boldt, the statesman and philologer, he 
and his illustrious brother, Alexander 
von Humboldt, the traveller (died 1859, 
aged 90), are buried. In the garden is a 
monument to his wife, a statue of Hope 
upon a pillar, the work of Thorvaldsen. 


About 1J mile outside of the Pots¬ 
dam Gate, near the village of Schbne- 
berg, is the Botanic Garden. The con¬ 
servatories and palmhouses are on a large 
scale. Palms are seen growing in them 
to a height of nearly 30 ft. It is open 
to the public on Friday. Strangers may 
obtain admission at other times. 

Outside the Konig’s Thor (King’s 
Gate) rt. is the New Park, the prettiest 
pleasure-ground near Berlin; and 1. the 
very beautiful Cemetery. 

Close to the Halle Gate, which termi¬ 
nates on the S. the avenue of the Fried¬ 
richs Strasse, a street 3 m. long, in the 
Belle-Alliance-Platz, rises the Friedens 
Denkmal, a pillar of granite, surmounted 
by Victory, by Rauch, erected 1840, to 
commemorate the Peace which had then 
lasted 25 years. 

About ^ a mile beyond the Halle 
Gate is a low sandhill called the Kreutz- 
berg, almost the only eminence near 
Berlin, and commanding a tolerable 
view of it. It is named from a Gothic 
Cross of cast iron, 160 ft. high, upon its 
summit, called Voiles Denkmal (People’s 
Monument), erected by the late king, 
as a memorial of Prussia’s recovery of 
independence from the French, and 
thus inscribed : “ The King to his peo¬ 
ple, who at his call nobly offered life 
and property to their country ; a monu¬ 
ment to the fallen; an acknowledgment 
to the living; an example to posterity.” 
Schinkel designed it, and Rauch and 
Tieck executed the statues of Prus¬ 
sian warriors in the niches, and the 
bas-relief medallion heads having re¬ 
ference to victories gained by the 
Prussians—as Gross-Gorschen, Leipzig, 
Katzbach, Paris, Belle Alliance. The 
whole was cast in the Royal Iron 
Foundry. 

Churchyards .—In that of the Alt 
Doratheenstadt are buried Fichte (1814); 
Hegel (1831); F. Aneillon, the minister 
(1837); Buttmann the philologer; Gans 
the lawyer (1836) ; Rauch and Schadow, 
sculptors, and Schinkel, architect. 
Felix Mendelssohn Barth oldy, the 
amiable and accomplished composer, 
is buried in the old Dreifaltigkeits 
ch.-yd., outside the Halle Gate. In 
the new Dreifaltigkeits ch.-yd. are the 
graves of Schleiermacher (1834); Ne- 










Prussia. 


363 


ROUTE 61.—BERLIN. EXCURSIONS. 


ancler (1850). Divines : Ludwig Tieck, 
poet (1853); Vamhagen v. Ense (1858). 

In the Invalidcn-Kirchhof, close to the 
Hamburg Railway terminus, are the 
graves of Scharnhorst, Tauentzien, 
Pirch, Witzleben and many other brave 
Prussian soldiers who fell in the war 
with France. A Corinthian pillar sur¬ 
mounted by an eagle, called National 
Krieger Denkmal , has been set up in the 
Invalids’ Garden, as a monument to the 
475 soldiers whose names are inscribed 
on marble tablets around its base, who 
fell in defending Berlin and their sove¬ 
reign from the revolutionary rioters 
of 1848 and 1849 ; or in fighting against 
revolutionists in Posen, Dresden, 
Mainz, Baden, Frankfurt, and other 
parts of Germany, at that period. 

Immediately beyond the Branden¬ 
burg Gate commences the Thiergarten , 
a beautiful artificial park and agree¬ 
able promenade, nearly 2 m. long, by 
nearly 1 m. broad, shaded by tall trees, 
fine firs, &c., interspersed with shrub¬ 
beries, with open spaces here and 
there, and ponds, coffee-houses, &c., 
among them. It is thronged with people 
on a fine Sunday afternoon. Along 
the borders are many detached modem 
mansions of good and original design. 
Here are situated Kroll's Winter Gar¬ 
den, and the Painters' Studios (Maler- 
Gebaude). £ m. from the Branden- 
burgh gate is the monumental statue, 
of white marble, erected by the Ber¬ 
liners, of King Frederick William 
III., by Drake , with fine bas-reliefs, 
near the Louisen Insel,—a site which 
that prince converted from a wilderness 
into a park. Drake’s studio is in the 
Thiergarten, and deserves a visit. 

About 1 m. beyond the Brandenburg 
Gate is the royal palace of Bellevue , con- 
: taining many paintings by modern Ger¬ 
man artists, such as— Lessing , Hussite 
• Sermons;— Kohler , David’s Triumph ;— 
Begas, Death of Abel; —Sohn , Rape of 
Hylas ;— Hasenpflug , the Erfurth and 
Magdeburg Cathedrals; — Hermann , 
Chateau of Stettin; — Catel, Roman 
Pfifferari; — Fiedler , Amphitheatre at 
Pol a -—Schmidt, Hallstadt in the Salz- 
kammergut;—Jeremiah, by Bendeman, 
&c. &c. 

Half an hour’s drive beyond the Bran¬ 


denburg Gate, behind the Hofjagers, is 
the Zoological Garden , containing the 
Royal Menagerie. It resembles that in 
the Regent’s Park. It is open daily ; 
admission 5 S. gr. 

The Excursion from Berlin to Pots¬ 
dam, about 19 m., should on no account 
be omitted. Railroad trains go thither 
6 times a-day in 30-45 min. (Rtc. 62.) 

One exception to the proverbial 
dreariness and monotony of tho out¬ 
skirts of Berlin is to be found in the 
course and banks of the Spree , which, 
though insignificant in its course 
through the city, yet spreads out N. 
and S., assuming the character of a 
lake, and its scenery, without being 
grand, is yet very pretty. 

River Steamers in summer to Kop- 
nick , S., start from the Ivbpnicker 
Briicke, passing by Treptow, in a well- 
wooded district, where, perched on a 
picturesque peninsula, rises a Church, 
designed by Schinkel. Farther on is 
a Swiss cottage, built upon an island, a 
pretty object. The Spree widens out 
and spreads into branches near Griinau, 
a pretty peaceful village. 

A Steamer also starts from tho pier 
close to Kroll’s Garden, N., to Spandau 
(Rte. 61). 

Excursion to Charlottenburg will not 
take more than 2 hrs.; the road thither, 
about 2 m. long, passes through the 
Brandenburg Gate, and runs in a straight 
avenue through the Thiergarten, bor¬ 
dered by many country houses of tho 
citizens, traversed by omnibuses on a 
horse tram-road (Pferd-Eisenbahn). 

Charlottenburg has grown from a small 
village on the Spree, made up chiefly of 
villas and taverns, into a town of 12,('00 
Inhab., the summer residence of tho 
rich, and the summer resort of the 
humbler classes from Berlin. The 
Palace (Schloss) was built by Fre¬ 
derick I., who married an English 
princess, Sophia Charlotte, daughter of 
George I. Many rooms are furnished 
with taste and magnificence. Here are 
several good pieces of sculpture, as a 
head of our Saviour by Rauch. The 
Gardens behind it are open to tho 
public. The entrance to them is through 
the Orangery, at the extremity of which 

r> 9 

Aw w 









364 • 


ROUTE 62. —BERLIN TO MAGDEBURG. 


Sect. V. 


is the Theatre, where the Berlin com¬ 
pany performs generally twice a-week, 
in summer. The gardens are the great 
resort of Sunday strollers from Berlin. 
They are prettily laid out, varied by 
the windings of the Spree, and by sheets 
of water, abounding in carp of large 
size and great age. Visitors are in the 
habit of feeding them with crumbs, and 
collect them together by the ringing 
of a bell, at the sound of which the fish 
may be seen in shoals, popping their 
noses out of the water. 

The only object of interest at Char- 
lottenburg is the monument of the beau¬ 
tiful, amiable, and unfortunate Louisa 
Queen of Prussia, so rudely and cruelly 
treated by Napoleon I. and the King 
her husband. They are buried within a 
small Doric Temple at the extremity of 
a shady walk, in a retired part of the 
garden. The Castellan residing in the 
palace keeps the key, and will show the 
monument to strangers. The figure of 
the queen reposes on a marble sarco¬ 
phagus. It is a masterpiece of the 
sculptor, Bauch, but perhaps surpassed 
by the replica at Potsdam. u The ex¬ 
pression is not that of dull cold death, 
but of undisturbed repose. The hands 
are modestly folded on the breast; the 
attitude is easy, graceful, and natural.” 
King Fred. William III. lies by the 
side of his queen. His recumbent 
statue lying “ with his martial cloak 
around him,” also by Bauch, is a work 
of art of at least equal merit. On either 
side is a white marble candelabrum, 
that with the Fates by Bauch , that with 
the Three Muses by Tieck. 

In the course of the autumn, gene¬ 
rally in September, a Grand Beview of 
the garrison takes place in the neigh¬ 
bourhood of Berlin ; 20,000 troops 
are sometimes collected, and the ma¬ 
noeuvres last several days. To see 
the reviews to advantage a uniform is 
desirable, though not absolutely neces¬ 
sary. The reviews are generally held 
on the ground near the Kreutzberg. 
The field manoeuvres usually take place 
between Charlottenburg, Spandau, and 
Potsdam. They last several days, the 
regiments bivouacking at night. The 
operations begin each day about 9. 
Ladies in carriages are enabled to see 


the whole by the good arrangement of 
the gendarmerie. A carriage with a 
pair of horses may be hired for the day 
at 5 thalers (15s.). 


EOUTE 62. 

BERLIN TO MAGDEBURG, BY POTSDAM 
AND BRANDENBURG.—RAILWAY. 

18| Pruss. m. = 85^ Eng. m. 

Trains to Potsdam six times a day, 
in 45 minutes. 

To Magdeburg 3 trains daily in 3 to 
4r\ hours ; Terminus (Bahnhof) outside 
the Potsdam Gate. The line proceeds 
past country-seats, taverns, and coffee¬ 
houses, the resort of the citizens, leaving 
on the rt. the Botanic Gardens and 
village of Schoneberg, in sight of the 
iron cross on the Kreutzberg on the 
1. to 

2 Zehlendorf Stat.—Beyond this the 
road passes through a wood of firs. 
About 2 m. before reaching Potsdam, 
on the rt., is the Peacock Island 
(Pfauen-Insel), surrounded by the 
Havel. It was a favourite summer 
retreat of Frederick William III., ori¬ 
ginally a rabbit-warren, converted into 
pleasure-grounds, but fallen into neg¬ 
lect since the death of the king. The 
scenery of the lake itself is picturesque, 
more especially when contrasted with the 
monotonous sandy plains round Berlin. 

3j Potsdam Stat. — Buffet. Inns : 
Einsiedler (Hermit) ; Deutsches Haus 
(German House). There is a good 
Bestaurant at the Bahnhof. The hotels 
have greatly fallen off. Persons ap¬ 
proaching Berlin from Magdeburg may 
stop for a few hours at Potsdam, leaving 
their luggage at the Stat. until they 
have seen all that is worth seeing; or 
they may visit it from Berlin, taking a 
return-ticket, but it is a long day’s 
work. The best plan is to take a 
carriage from the station for the whole 
tour; it ought not to cost more than 
2 thalers (ask for the tariff and settle 



Prussia, route 62 . —potsdam. royal palace. 


beforehand), and a pourboire to the 
driver. lie will drive you in succession 
to all the sights, palaces, &c. Besides 
the station near the town close to the 
Long Bridge on the E. side of the 
Havel, there is another at the Wtldpark , 
W. of the Havel. The visitor may 
begin at Wildpark Stat. and end at the 
other: thus, to the New Palace through 
the gardens — to Charlottcnhof—the 
Japanese House—Sans Souci—Sicilian 
Garden, Windmill, Obelisk, Churches 
and Palaces in Potsdam—cross the Long 
Bridge to Potsdam Stat.—thence drive 
to Babelsberg and back. 

Potsdam, the Prussian Versailles, 
lies on the rt. bank of the Havel, which 
here expands into a lake with finely 
wooded, picturesque, sloping banks ; 
it has 42,900 Inhab., including a large 
garrison. Founded by the Great Elec¬ 
tor of Brandenburg, it became the re¬ 
sidence of the Prussian Princes during 
the rising fortunes of the Boyal house, 
but it owes all its splendour to Fre¬ 
derick the Great. It may be called a 
town of palaces, not only from the 4 
Boyal residences in and about it, but 
because even the private houses are 
copied from celebrated edifices, each of 
which may comprise within it the 
dwellings of many families. The dul- 
ness of the streets, indeed, often con¬ 
trasts singularly with the splendour of 
their architecture. 

Close to the long bridge which leads 
from the stat. into the town is the 
Lustgarten, and contiguous to it the 
Residenz or Royal Palace , built 1660- 
1701. It contains little worth seeing, 
except the apartments of the Great Fre¬ 
derick, which remain nearly as they 
were when he was alive. Here are 
shown his writing-table blotted all over 
with ink, his inkstand, music-stand, 
piano, with music composed by himself 
in his own writing, green eye-shade, 
book-case filled with French works, and 
the chairs and sofa which he used, 
their silken covers nearly tom off by 
the claws of his dogs, and stained with 
the marks of the plates from which they 
were fed. The truck bed on which he 
slept, despising any more comfortable 
couch, stood behind the silver balus¬ 
trades, but has been removed because 


365 

it was worn out, and almost pulled to 
pieces by relic-hunters. Adjoining the 
bed-room is a small cabinet with double 
doors provided with a table which as¬ 
cends and descends through a trap-door 
in the floor, while plates and dishes were 
removed by another trap-door. Here 
the monarch could dine tete-a-tete with 
a friend, without being overheard or 
overlooked, while the dinner was served 
without requiring the presence of a 
servant. The singular smoking club, or 
Tabacks-Collegium, established by Fre¬ 
derick the Great’s father, used to hold 
its eccentric and boisterous meetings in 
the building called Haas am Bassin. 

The Nicholaikirche , opposite the Schloss, 
built, 1830-37, by Schinkel, is of the Co¬ 
rinthian order, surmounted by a dome. 
The fronton of the portico, and the soffit 
of the chief door, are ornamented with 
bas-reliefs of the Besurrection and Ser¬ 
mon on the Mount, but the outside is not 
very successful. The interior is splen¬ 
did, decorated with fresco paintings on 
a gold ground, of the 12 Apostles, 
&c., by the first artists of Berlin and 
Dusseldorf. 

The Garnison Kirche (Ch. of the Gar¬ 
rison). Frederick the Great is buried 
beneath the pulpit, in a plain metal sar¬ 
cophagus above ground. His sword, 
originally laid upon it, was carried off by 
Napoleon, and all traces of it are lost; 
but over the tomb, on each side of 
the pulpit, now hang the eagles and 
standards taken from Napoleon’s armies 
by the Prussians ; a fitting retribution, 
and as it were an atonement, to the 
shade of the hero for this paltry theft. 
The other coffin, of marble, in the same 
vault, is that of William I. Here 
also are suspended Austrian standards 
from the Bohemian campaign of 1866. 
Around the walls of the church are 
tablets inscribed with the names of 
the brave soldiers who distinguished 
themselves and perished during the war 
of Liberation. 

Potsdam is the birthplace of King 
Frederick William III., to whom a 
statue by Kiss has been set up in the 
Wilhelmsplatz; and of the distinguished 
traveller and philosopher Alexander von 
Humboldt. 



S60 ROUTE 62. —POTSDAM. SANS soUci. Sect. V. 


The view from the Brauhausberg in¬ 
cludes Potsdam and all its numerous 
palaces, the intricate windings of the 
Ilavel, and the beautiful green islands 
which it encircles — a very pleasing 
prospect. 

Sans Souci. — The Gardens begin a 
few hundred yards outside of the Bran¬ 
denburg Gate, W. of Potsdam. The 
entrance is about \ an hour’s walk from 
the stat. Near it is the * Friedenskirche, 
a Basilica, with detached campanile, 
partly copied from that of Murano near 
Venice, built 1850 from the plans of 
Persius. It contains a Pieta by Riet- 
schel, an ancient Mosaic from the ch. of 
St. Cyprien at Murano; and a monu¬ 
ment to Fred. William IV., d. 1861, 
the statue of the Angel of the Resur¬ 
rection, is copied from one in Rome. 

The gardens are laid out in the stiff 
formal French taste, with alleys, cut 
hedges, statues, basins, &c., and are 
kept in perfect order. A broad avenue 
rims through them ; at the extremity 
of it lies the New Palace. Near to 
Potsdam, and on the rt. of the avenue 
is the Palace of Sans Souci , b. 1745-47, 
by Frederick the Great, on the top of a 
flight of step-like terraces. They are 
fronted with glass, beneath which grow 
vines, olives, and orange-trees. Fre¬ 
derick, who took much pride in his 
gardens and hot-beds, complained once 
to the Prince de Ligne of the climate 
and soil under which his orange-trees 
and vines were pining. “ Sire,” re¬ 
plied the courtier, “it appears that with 
you nothing thrives but your laurels.” 
The Palace , restored and fitted up as a 
residence for Frederick William IV., but 
without altering its original character, 
stands on the highest' terrace; it is a 
low, and not a handsome building, hut 
the colonnade behind is fine. At the 
extremities of this terrace are the graves 
of Frederick’s favourite dogs, and of 
his horse that carried him through 
many of his battles. By his will he 
directed that he himself should be 
buried among them, an injunction which 
was not complied with. This spot was 
the favourite resort of the old warrior ; 
here he was brought out in his arm¬ 


chair, surrounded by his dogs, a short 
while before his decease, to bask in the 
sun. “ Je serai bientot plus pres de 
lui,” were nearly his last words. With¬ 
in the building may he seen his bed¬ 
room where he breathed his last; a 
clock, which he always wound up with 
his own hand, hut which, being for¬ 
gotten at last, stopped at the moment 
of his death, and still points to the hour 
of his decease, 20 minutes past 2. A 
portrait of Gustavus Adolphus hangs 
on the wall, its sole ornament; the bed 
and arm-chair of Frederick have been 
removed. Voltaire’s apartment is also 
pointed out at some distance from that 
of his Royal host; its walls are co¬ 
vered with figures, which are pictorial 
epigrams on Voltaire’s character or 
habits; e. g. a monkey, meant as a 
portrait; parrots from his volubility; 
stork, from his migrations, coming in 
summer, quitting in winter. In the 
gallery hang some paintings by Watteau. 
On the rt. and 1. of the palace, but in se¬ 
parate buildings, are the state apartments 
and the Picture Gallery ; but as all the 
best pictures are removed to Berlin, 
much time need not be wasted upon it. 
Among those that remain is one tolerable 
picture, a Virgin and Child, by Rubens, 
and there are many by his pupils and 
imitators, Van Tulden and the like, of 
inferior merit and value. 

The Salle de Raphael, in the - New 
Orangerie , is a veiy elegant apartment. 

Frederick the Great was not satisfied 
with his reputation as a general; he 
must be considered a man of taste, 
and a judge and patron of art; and as 
he knew nothing about it, and still 
would possess a picture gallery, he was 
most egregiously cheated and imposed 
upon by the agents and picture-dealers 
whom he employed; paying enormous 
sums for worthless pictures, and re¬ 
jecting others of very high merit. 
Thus a painting of Lot and his Daugh¬ 
ters, sold to him for 30,000 ducats, as a 
Raphael of the highest excellence, turned 
out to be the work of a second-rate Fle¬ 
mish master, Floris, and worth not more 
than 50/. He rejected the Holbein now 
in the Dresden Gallery, which is es¬ 
teemed the best work of that master. 




Prussia . RTE. 62.—POTSDAM. SANS SOUCI. CHAfcLOTTENHoF. 367 


A handsome and lofty Belvedere com¬ 
mands a panorama of the surrounding 
country. 

The famous Windmill of Sans Souci 
stands close behind the palace, sepa¬ 
rated from it only by the road , and still 
belongs to the descendants of the miller 
who refused to yield it up to Frederick, 
when he wanted to pull it down and 
include the ground in his own gardens, 
which are rather confined on that side. 
The original mill was a very small 
one; but after Frederick lost the law¬ 
suit against the miller, ho erected for 
him the present one on a much larger 
scale. Some years ago adverse circum¬ 
stances compelled the owner of the 
mill to make up his mind to part with it. 
He in consequence offered it for sale to 
the late king, who, instead of availing 
himself of the opportunity, generously 
settled on the miller a sum sufficient 
to extricate him from his difficulties, 
and enable him to maintain himself in 
his property ; saying that the mill now 
belonged to Prussian history, and was 
in a manner a national monument. 

The broad walk, before mentioned, 
leads from the foot of the terraces of 
Sans Souci to the New Palace (Neue 
Palais), about 2 m. from Potsdam, now 
residence of the Princess Royal of 
England and the Crown Prince, who 
have apartments above the state-rooms. 
The flower-garden in the English style 
is the work of H.R.H. This vast 
brick building was erected at enormous 
cost by Frederick, by way of bravado, 
at the end of the Seven Years’ War, to 
show his enemies that his finances were 
not exhausted. It was built in six years, 
between 1763 and 1769, on a spot pre¬ 
viously a morass. It contains 72 apart¬ 
ments, exhibiting faded remains of gaudy 
magnificence. Marble has been pro¬ 
fusely lavished on the walls and floors; 
and one large apartment is lined en¬ 
tirely with shells and minerals, in very 
bad taste. There are still some toler¬ 
able paintings by Schneydcrs, and one 
or two very excellent Luca Giordanos. 
The most interesting room is that con¬ 
taining in a small * Library a copy of 
the works of Frederick the Great, ‘ Des 
CEuvres Melees du Philosophe de Sans 


Souci. Avec privilege d’Apollon. 
This copy is a curiosity, as it contains 
many notes in the hand-writing of Vol¬ 
taire, some of them severe and cutting 
criticisms. Thus, finding the word 
plat in three or four consecutive lines 
of the same poem, he writes “ Voici 
plus de plats que dans un tres bon 
souper.” At another place he writes, 
“ S’il faut conserver cette epigramme, 
il faut la tourner tout autrement.” He 
points out a piece of false grammar 
thus, “ On ne dit pas louer a.” The 
remarks, however, are not all in this 
cutting tone, and in other parts the 
margin is plentifully sprinkled with 
“ admirable,” “rien de mieux while 
at the end of one of Frederick’s letters 
is written, “Que d’esprit! de grace, 
d’imagination ! qu’il est doux de vivre 
aux pieds d’xxn tel homme ! ” The 
offices for servants, contained in the 
building called Communs , facing the 
New Palace, are now converted into 
barracks for the trained infantry — a 
draft from every regiment in the Prus¬ 
sian service—who are instructed and 
replaced every year by fresh corps, the 
old ones being distributed through the 
army to introduce uniformity in the 
drill and regulations. 

In the building called the * Antique 
Temple , close to the New Palace (N.), is 
a statue of Louisa Queen of Prussia. It 
is an improvement on that at Char- 
lottenburg, the result of 15 years’ 
thought and study on the part of the 
sculptor, Rauch: it is even more 
beautiful and touching. It is no larger 
than life, and represents her asleep. 

Sans Souci. Sunday, Tuesday, and 
Thursday the Waterworks play. The 
main fountain rises in a jet 130 ft. high. 

At the S. side of the gardens, 20 
min. walk S.E. of the New Palace, 
stands Charlottenhof , a villa built by 
Frederick William IV., when crown 
prince, in the stylo of a Pompeian dwell¬ 
ing ; following as nearly as possible 
the arrangement and dimensions of the 
houses of Pompeii. It exhibits the 
utmost taste and elegance. In the 
beautiful garden is an exact imitation 
of a Pompeian bath, built for use as 
well as ornament, and decorated with 



368 


ROUTE 62.— BABELSBERG. BRANDENBURG. 


frescoes. The fountains, an antique 
altar, and several statues and bronzes, 
were brought from Herculaneum or 
Pompeii. 

Prom Potsdam Stat. you may drive 
to *Babelsberg , the modern castle of the 
King of Prussia, built by Schinkel. As 
it is separated from Potsdam by the 
broad Havel, the visit to it may be 
made either before or after that to 
Potsdam and Sans Souci; it is £ hr.’s 
drive from the stat. The beautiful 
grounds, with their terraces and foun¬ 
tains, were laid out by Prince Piickler 
Muskau. The rooms have an air of 
the highest taste and refinement, and 
contain portraits of our Koyal Family, 
and others connected with Prussia, 
besides some exquisite specimens of art 
from the pencil of our Princess Royal. 
Alex, von Humboldt’s study is kept as 
he left it. Hence, crossing the Havel 
by a long bridge, you reach 

The Marble Palace , erected byFrede- 
rick William II. on the bank of the 
lake, adorned by Frederick William IV. 
with modern paintings, &c. A glance 
at the exterior of this may suffice. 

From the Marble Palace you may 
ascend the Pfingstberg , where the king 
has erected a huge structure, in imita¬ 
tion of a villa at Tivoli, the towers of 
which command a panorama of Pots¬ 
dam and its environs. On the way 
from it to Sans Souci you pass through 
the Russian Colony , or village. It con¬ 
sists of 11 houses, built entirely after 
the Russian fashion, and given, with a 
piece of land, to a party of Russians sent 
hither by the Emperor Nicholas. The 
little Chapel belonging to the colony, 
surmounted by three bulb-shaped domes, 
is fitted up and adapted to the Greek 
Church service. It is inferior to the 
Greek chapel at Wiesbaden. 


On quitting Potsdam the railroad 
crosses the Havel, leaving the palace 
and gardens of Sans Souci on the right. 
The country between Potsdam and 
Genthin is varied by the lakes formed 


Sect. V. 

by the Havel, some of which arc skirted, 
others traversed by the railroad. 

Worder Stat., a small town in a 
lake formed by the Havel. 

Gross-Kreutz Stat. 

4 Brandenburg Stat. — Inns: Schwarzer 
Adler; Bar; Restaurateur at the Station. 
A town of 27,000 Inhab. on the Havel, 
the quarter called the Burg, in which 
the Cathedral stands, being on an island 
in the river. 

The Dom. A late Romanesque ch., 
1170-94, of which date are the crypt 
and part of choir walls: the rest was 
built about 1307. It was badly restored 
in 1836 by Schinkel. On the richly 
recessed W. portal are reliefs satirising 
the monks, such as a fox preaching to a 
congregation of geese. The interior is 
ornamented with antique statues and 
paintings. The high altar (1518), of 
wood, carved and painted, represents 
the Coronation of the Virgin, Peter, 
Paul, &c., figures life-size, with paint¬ 
ings, the Fathers of the Church, in the 
style of Mat. Griinewald. Here are 
the tombs of Episcopal Margraves, some 
of them of terracotta , incised and in 
relief, of 13th and 14th centuries. The 
Font (15th centy.) bears reliefs of the 
youth of our Saviour, but they have 
been painted over. In the crypt is the 
bishop’s throne, 13th cent. The clois¬ 
ters deserve notice. In the chamber 
of antiquities adjoining the Ch. is a 
model of the Marienkirchc, of Byzan¬ 
tine architecture, 12th cent., destroyed 
1722, various carvings, altar-pieces, 
paintings. In a second chamber are 
some relics once held in great venera¬ 
tion here, e. g. a stud from the bedstead 
of the Virgin; the manger out of which 
Joseph’s ass fed in the flight into Egypt; 
the pocket of David’s sling ; the head 
of Goliath’s staff and his purse, &c. 

The Ch. of St. Katherine , built 1401, 
is one of the richest examples of German 
brick architecture. At the upper end 
of the transepts are immense screens of 
rich open tracery, formed of clay, baked 
and glazed, in colour dark green, with 
statuettes of the same in the niches. 
Here is a richly carved altarpiece of 
wood, a brass font adorned with many 
figures, by F. Momer, 1440, and on 1. 






Prussia. route 63.—bbrlth 'to LEitzm. 


a monument of the Schulenburg family, 
1595. 

The Altstadt Rathhaus is a fine Gothic 
monument, 1350; and several of the 
town gates, especially the Muhlen-Thor 
(d. 1440), the Stein-Thor, and the Rath- 
enower-Thor (1375), have picturesque 
towers of brick, and deserve notice. 
In the market-place is a Rolandsdule 18 
ft. high (date 1404). 

11 Wusterwitz Stat. On the lake of 
Plauen, which is connected with the 
Elbe by a canal. The rail runs near 
the canal on its S. side. 

2 2 Genthin Stat. Inn, Goldene Stem. 

Gfisen Stat. 

3^ Burg. Stat. Inns kept by Roland 
and Schrceder. A busy and flourishing 
town of 15,000 Inhab., ith of whom 
are engaged in the manufacture of cloth, 
established here originally by French 
Protestant emigrants. 

Hohenwarte Stat. 

The Elbe spreads itself out, and forms 
several islands, which are crossed by 
the railway on iron lattice-bridges. It 
traverses the Tete du Pont on the rt. 
bank. 

3f Magdeburg Stat. Rte. 66. 


ROUTE 63. 

BERLIN TO LEIPZIG, BY WITTENBERG, 
—RAILWAY. 

21 Prus. m. = 98 Eng. m. Trains 
in 4£ to 6^ hours. 

Terminus outside the Anhalt gate. 

On quitting Berlin the Kreutzberg 
is passed on the left, soon after the 
tower of Teltow rises on the right. 

2i Gross-Beeren Stat. The Church, 
with its seven turrets, is seen on the 
left. A cast-iron Obelisk , ornamented 
with a cross, commemorates the victory 
of Aug. 23, 1813, gained here by the 
Prussians under Billow, oyer the French 
under Oudinot. 


309 

Ludwigsfelde Stat. 

2 (rt.) Trebbin Stat., a town of 1400 
Inhab. 

2 (1.) Luckenwalde Stat., a town of 
5000 Inhab., on the Nuthc, famed for 
its manufacture of broad cloth. 

(1.) In a wood, near the convent of 
Zinna, the monk Tetzel was waylaid 
and robbed of the money he had ob¬ 
tained by selling indulgences. 

If (1.) Juterbog Junct. Stat. Inn , 
Post. This ancient Wendic town of 5000 
Inhab. is 1 m. from the railroad. In 
the handsome Gothic Ch. of St. Nicholas 
is preserved one of the Indulgence-boxes 
(Ablasskasten) of Tetzel, Luther’s anta¬ 
gonist, who was waylaid by a robber 
knight, Hans von Ilacke, as he was 
carrying it home filled with gold, the 
produce of the pardons he had sold. 
Tetzel had previously granted the 
knight an indemnity for any sins he 
might commit. It is a large wooden 
alms-box, hooped with iron, having a 
slit on the top. See also a carved box for 
Mass robes; and a Tabernacle for the 
Sacrament. The antique walls and 
gates—especially the Frauenthor , de¬ 
serve notice. 

The direct Railroad to Dresden (Rte. 
65) turns off here. 

Beyond "Juterbog, 2^ m. on the 
1., is Dennewitz , another battle-field 
where the Prussians under Blilow were 
successful, Sept. 6, 1813, against the 
French, under Key and Oudinot. 
10,000 French were taken prisoners, 
and Berlin saved from falling into their 
hands. A monument of the battle has 
been erected near Nieder-Gorsdorf. 

2f (1.) Zahna Stat. 

If Wittenberg Station. The 
Bahnhof Restauration affords lodging as 
well as refreshment. Wittenberg (Inns: 
Weintraube, and Stadt London) is a 
fortified town on the rt. bank of the 
Elbe, 12,000 Inhab., dirty and ill paved. 
3 or 4 hours will suffice to see it. It 
was the residence of the Electors of 
Saxony down to 1542, and has been 
termed the Protestant Mecca, and the 
cradle of the Reformation, since it 
was in this place that Luther openly 
engaged in opposition to the Church 
of Rome, and denounced its evil prac- 

R 3 




370 


ROUTE 63.— WlTTENfeERG. RutRer’s house. Sect. V. 


tices and abuses. He was professor 
of theology and philosophy at the 
once famous University founded here 
by the Elector of Saxony, now re¬ 
moved and incorporated with that of 
Halle. It is mentioned by Shakspeare 
as the school where Hamlet studied. 
Luther and his friend Melancthon 
are both buried in the Schloss Kirche; 
two tablets of bronze inserted in the 
pavement mark their graves. Here 
arc also the tombs of Frederick the 
Wise and John the Steadfast, Elec¬ 
tors of Saxony, the friends of Luther 
and of the Reformation. The monu¬ 
ment of Frederick is a fine work of art, 
by Peter' Vischer, 1527; his bronze statue 
is full of life, and of a noble character, 
while the Gothic work of the niche in 
which it is placed also deserves notice. 
Here is a Coronation of the Virgin, also 
by P. Vischer, in relief—a duplicate of 
that at Erfurt. Against the doors of 
this church (burnt by the French, re¬ 
placed by bronze gates from Quast's 
design) Luther hung up his 95 theses or 
arguments condemning the doctrine of 
papal indulgences, which he offered, 
after the fashion of the times, to defend 
against all comers. 

Luther's house or lodging in the old 
University Buildings, formed out of the 
ancient Augustine Convent, where he 
lived after his marriage, still remains 
almost unaltered. In it are kept his 
chair and table at which he wrote, the 
jug from which he drank, his stove 
made according to his own directions 
with peculiar devices, his professor’s 
chair, 2 portraits of him by Cranach , 
and a very curious cast of his face after 
death. Over one door is the auto¬ 
graph, in chalk, of Peter the Great, 
now covered with glass to protect it. 
These two places arc shown by the 
same person, who lives near the Post, 
and are at opposite ends of the town. 
In the way between are pointed out 
the houses of Cranach and Melanchthon, 
and at the Elster Gate, immediately 
beyond the house of Luther, is the 
Oak Tree planted on the site of that 
under which Luther burnt the Papal 
Bull, Dec. 10, 1520. 

In the Market Place in the middle 
of the town, beneath a Gothic canopy 


of cast iron, is a bronze statue of 
Luther, by Schadow , erected 1822: on 
one side of the pedestal are the lines 

“ Ist’s Gottes Werk, so wird’s bestehen, 

Ist’sMenschenwerk,wird’suntergehen.” 

(If it be the work of God, it will en¬ 
dure ; if of Man, it will perish.) 

On another— 

“ Eine feste Burg ist unser Gott.” 

A statue of Melancthon was erected 
1865. 

Close to this is the Pathhaus. It con¬ 
tains portraits of Luther and Melanch¬ 
thon, with their contemporary profes¬ 
sors, by Cranach , who was burgomaster 
here ; also a singular picture painted by 
him 1516, illustrative of the 10 com¬ 
mandments, according to the old divi¬ 
sion ;—also an original portrait of 
Gustavus Adolphus; his sword, which 
he left as a present after a visit to the 
sights of Wittenberg; and among other 
relics and curiosities illustrating the 
history of the Reformation, the top of 
Luther’s sacramental cup, and his rosary 
which he carried when a monk. 

In the Stadt Kirche , close at hand, 
is the handsome bronze font by Herman 
Vischer, 1457, at which Luther and Me¬ 
lancthon baptized. Here also (though 
not from the existing pulpit) Luther 
preached. Here are two curious but 
poor pictures by Cranach (?)—1. The 
altar-piece representing the 4 sacra¬ 
ments ; the Lord’s Supper, in which the 
painter himself appears as a servant; 
Baptism, in which Melancthon offi¬ 
ciates ; Preaching, in which Luther 
addresses a congregation of which 
the two foremost figures are his wife 
and son; Penance, administered by 
Bugenhagen. 2. In one of the aisles 
a painting represents the Vineyard of 
the Lord as misused by the Pope and 
his followers, and well cultivated by the 
Reformers. 

The Castle in which lived the Electors 
of Saxony down to 1542, is now the 

Citadel. 

Wittenberg has suffered severely 
from sieges. In 1760, the chief public 
buildings and one-third of the town 
were destroyed by the Austrian bom¬ 
bardment. It was taken by the Prus- 






Prussia. 


ROUTE 64. —HAMBURG TO MAGDEBURG. 


371 


sians under Tauentzien, from the 
French, by storm, in 1814, after a siege 
of ten months, during which the sub¬ 
urbs were laid in ruins. 

Railway to Dessau, Zerbst, and 
Kothen. 

The direct rly. to Leipsig leaves 1. 
the line to Halle (Rte. 64), and passes 
the Elbe on a bridge 906 ft. long. 

Bcrgwitz Stat.' 

Grafenhainchen Stat: town of 3200 
Inhab. 

Bitterfeld Stat.: 5000 Inhab. Cloth 
manufacture. 

Dclitsch Stat. 

Leipsig Stat. (Rte. 86). 


ROUTE 64. 

HAMBURG TO LEIPZIG, BY MAGDEBURG, 
KbTIIEN, [DESSAU, WoRLITZ,] AND 
HALLE.—RAILROAD. 

Trains 3 times a day, in 12—13 hours* 
This railway leaves the Hamburg 
and Berlin Railway at the 

Wittenbergti Stat. (see Rte. Gl), not 
to be confounded with the Wittenberg 
Of Luther and Hamlet (Rte. 63). Trains 
reach Magdeburg in about 4 hrs. from 
Wittenberge. The line immediately 
crosses the Elbe by a bridge resting 
on an island; part of it of stone and 
brick, part on the lattice or suspension 
principle. 

Seehausen Stat. W. 14 m. the Lake 
Arendsee. 

Osterburg Stat. 

Golbeck Stat. 


StendalStat. ( Inns: Adler; Schwan.) 
This ancient town of 6300 Inhab. was 
formerly a fortress and flourishing 
Hanse town, capital of the Altmarkt, 
and residence of the Margraves of 
Brandenburg. It has several interest¬ 
ing churches: St. Nicholas , of Pointed 
Gothic, a good specimen of brickwork 
of the 15th cent., with coloured win¬ 
dows executed 1480; a roodloft, 1450; 
stalls in the choir, 1430; bas-reliefs of 
the Passion outside the choir, cloisters, 
&c.;— St. Mary's, late Gothic, font, 
wood screen work, and stalls;— St. Jacob. 
The Rathhaus , an interesting building 
in the market-place, late Gothic, has 
some carved screenwork, and in front 
stands a Rolandsaule, 1525. See also 
the town walls , originally of granite, 
repaired with brick and rich terra-cotta 
work in the 15th cent;—the Ueng linger 
Gate, 87 ft. high, with turrets, moulded 
brick ornaments; — the Tangermiindc 
Gate, 1460, raised on a much older 
basis of granite. In the 14th cent, it 
contained 20,000 Inhab. Winckelman, 
the antiquary, was born here 1717 ; d. 
1768. 

Demkcr Stat. 

Mahlwinkel Stat. 

Rogatz Stat. 

Wollmirstadt Stat. Here are the 
ruins of an ancient castle, and near here, 
at Sommereschenburg, is a monument 
to F. M. Gneiscnau, who died 1831. 

Magdeburg Stat., at the Fiirsten- 
wall, close to the Elbe bridge. 

Magdeburg is described in Rte. 66. 

The train, on quitting the fortifica* 
tions, passes near the Fort Stemschanze, 

2 Schbncbcck Stat., a flourishing 
town. 

[Branch Railway to Strassfurt 
(Buffet)j where, as well as at Gross 
Salza, there are salt-works. Schnell- 
post to AsChersleben (Sehwarzer Ross), 
a town of 13,000 Inhab., whence 
coaches to Harzgerode in tbe Hartz.] 

Gnadau Stat. is a Moravian colony. 

The most considerable work on this 
line is the bridge, 1370 ft. long, resting 
on 30 piers, by which the railroad 
is carried over the river Saale near 
Grizena. 

1| Saale Stat., situated 1 m. below 
Kalbe, an old town of 4000 Inhab, 





372 


Sect. V. 


ROUTE 64. —IvOTHEtf. 

rt. The towers of Bernburg are just 
visible from the railroad. (1.) Aken, a 
Prussian town of 3200 Inhab., near the 
Elbe, is seen before reaching 

2 1 Kothen June. Station. 

Kothen, or Cothen, junction sta¬ 
tion. Here the lines from Berlin, 
Magdeburg, Bernburg, and Leipsig 
meet. Trains are here changed. 

The station-house, built by the Duke 
of Anhalt-Kothen, includes a refresh¬ 
ment room, where a good dinner may 
be obtained. The Gaming-house has 
been closed. 

Kothen is a town of 12,000 Inhab. 
(Inn: Prinz von Preussen), and resi¬ 
dence of the Duke of Anhalt-Kothen. 

[A branch railway to Bernburg, 
2\ Pruss. m., in 5 hr. Bernburg 
(Inn: Goldne Kugel), capital of the 
duchy of Anhalt-Bernburg, with 7000 
Inhab., on the river Saale. The Schloss 
stands on the summit of a height rising 
precipitously from the Saale ; its oldest 
part is a keep tower called Eulenspiegel, 
more than 120 ft. high ; the rest of the 
edifice was erected in the 15th and 17th 
centuries. It is now the residence of 
the Erbprinz , and contains a collection 
of family portraits. The Marienkirche 
was founded in the 10th cent., but re¬ 
paired internally in 1811; above the 
choir are statues of 8 princes of the 
house of Anhalt. St. Nicholas, in the 
new town, is also an old ch. A coach 
twice a day to Quedlinburg.] 


[From Cothen an Excursion may be 
made by Bail to Dessau and Worlitz. 

# Dessau Station, outside the Akcn 
gate. Dessau, capital of the dukedom 
of Anhalt-Dessau, is a town of 18,864 
Inhab., on the left bank of the Mulde, 
which enters the Elbe a little below it. 
(Inns: Beutel; Bing; Hirsch.) Owing 
to a conflagration which consumed the 
town (1467), it has no ancient build¬ 
ings. The Ducal Palace is the prin¬ 
cipal edifice ; it was built 1748, and 
contains a Library , in which are many 
MSS. of Luther, a cabinet of curiosi- 


DESSAU. WORLITZ. 

ties, jewels, antiques, &c.; and a Pic¬ 
ture Gallery , with many Italian, pic¬ 
tures, including one which calls itself 
a Raphael , but without just claim. In 
the lower story curiosities and relics— 
the sword of P. Leopold of Anhalt; 
Napoleon’s silver basin and plate cap¬ 
tured at Waterloo. 

In the Schloss Kirche , a building of 
the 16th cent., is a celebrated Last 
Supper by Cranach , who introduced 
into it portraits of the chief promoters 
of the Deformation. Here the ducal 
family are buried. Moses Mendelssohn 
was bom at Dessau. 

The vicinity of Dessau, originally 
a sandy waste, has been converted into 
gardens, which form its chief orna¬ 
ment : these are called Georgengarten, 
Louisium , and Sieglizerberg : but more 
remarkable are those of Worlitz, 7 m. 
from Dessau. 

Worlitz, (Inn, Eichencranz,) the 
Prince of Anhalt Dessau’s summer 
residence, famed for its Gardens, or 
Park as it is termed, which are among 
the finest in Germany, and, though in 
a flat, are worth a visit. The great 
beauty of the trees, many fine speci¬ 
mens of American oaks, and the good 
keeping of the place, are remarkable. 
They may be reached from Coswig by 
a ferry, 1 m. below the town. The 
gardens are separated from the Elbe 
by a high embankment which is ren¬ 
dered ornamental by plantations, and 
commands a good view; their great 
feature is a fine lake, from which 
streamlets and canals are conducted to 
all parts : temples, bridges, and other 
buildings, are profusely scattered 
through the grounds. The Neumark 
garden occupies 3 islands. In Schoch’s 
garden is a Gothic house, containing 
paintings by old German masters, L. 
Cranach, &c., a bas-relief carved in 
wood by A. Diirer, some old ar¬ 
mour, and other curiosities. 


The line to Leipzig leaves, a little 
on the 1., the old Wendic town of 
Zbrbig, near to 








Prussia. 


kOtfTE 64. —HALLE. 


21 Stumsdorf Stat.; and on approach¬ 
ing Halle, passes, on the rt., the ruined 
castle Giebichenstein , once a state prison 
of the emperors of Germany, out of 
which the Landgrave Louis of Thurin¬ 
gia, imprisoned by the Empr. Henry 
IV., escaped by leaping from a window. 

21 IIalle Stat.— Inns: *Stadt Ham¬ 
burg, near the Post-office, best; Kron- 
prinz; Zum Goldcnen Kugel, kept by 
Mentes, close to the Stat. A town of 
45,972 Inhab., on the Saalc, principally 
remarkable for its University , founded in 
1694, by Frederick I. of Prussia, to 
which that of Wittenberg was trans¬ 
ferred in 1815. The average number of 
students at present is 750. It is espe¬ 
cially renowned as a school of Protestant 
theology. Its professors, Tholuck»and 
Gesenius (now dead), rank as the 2 
most eminent Hebrew scholars of the 
age. The handsome University building 
was erectedU834. Near it is the new 
Zuchthaus (Penitentiary). 

Halle is an antiquated town, possess¬ 
ing several curious architectural monu¬ 
ments, among them the Bed Tower , 
standing isolated in the market-place; 
and not far from it a colossal bronze 
statue of Hand,el the composer, born at 
Halle 1685, erected 1859, by his ad¬ 
mirers in England and Germany, from 
Heidel’s design. 

The Mar War che, an elegant Go¬ 
thic building, completed 1554, flanked 
by 4 towers, 2 of which, joined by a 
bridge, are inhabited by the custos. 
It contains a remarkable picture by 
Lucas Cranach , turning on a pivot, 
and opening with 4 shutters : the chief 
subjects are the Annunciation, and 
the Madonna and Child on the crescent, 
suiTOunded by angels, with the Cardl. 
Albert of Brandenburg (for whom it 
was painted, 1528) in the corner, and 
a back ground of landscape. The wings 
or shutters bearing figures of saints. 
[Apply to the Krister, who lives in the 
house next the ch., to open this picture.] 
The altar-piece (the Sermon on the 
Mount) is by Hiibner, an artist of Dres¬ 
den. The Marriage of St. Catherine is 
likewise by Cranach. High up against 
the triforium is a coloured medallion 


S'? 3 

head, probably oi terra cotta, of 
Luther, inscribed, “ Sanctus Doctor 
M. Lutherus, Propheta Germania).” 
The font of bronze; date 1430. 

The Moritzhirche , in the lower part 
of the town, near the Salt Works 
(built 1156, choir 1388, restored 1840), 
a small but fine Gothic church, elabo¬ 
rately vaulted, with stone pendants de¬ 
scending from the roof, has a very 
remarkable altar-piece of carved work, 
20 feet high, in the style of the Cus- 
todias of Israel von Meckenen , date 1488. 
The centre opens and discloses niches, 
each filled with a bas-relief from our 
Lord’s Passion, painted and gilt. On 
the outside are 10 paintings of the 
Westphalian school, also on shutters. 
Th c pulpit is of sandstone, elaborately 
carved in the style of a later period 
(1588) and gilt. The stem bears the 
representation of Sin, Death, and the 
Devil (the Temptation of Eve) ; the 
other carvings are scriptural subjects 
from the Creation to the Crucifixion. 

In the Besidenz, once palace of the 
Archbishop, occurred the humiliation 
of Philip Landgrave of Hesse, who was 
here obliged to throw himself at the 
feet of the Emp. Charles V., after the 
defeat of the Protestants at Miihlberg, 
1547. It is now attached to the Uni¬ 
versity, and contains a collection of 
Antiquities. 

The Orphan House (Waisenhaus), in 
the suburb of Glauca, called from its 
founder (1698), who was a clergyman 
and professor of Halle, Franke’s Institut , 
is a liberal and munificent establish¬ 
ment. It embraces also schools for 
the education of children of both sexes, 
and of various stations, though chiefly 
of the poorer classes, to the number of 
2220 ; a Laboratory , where medicines 
are prepared and distributed, and a 
Printing Office for Bibles, which are sold 
at a low price. Franke began without 
funds of his own, with no resource but 
a reliance on Providence. The building 
is now ornamented with an admirable 
Statue in bronze of the Founder, by 
Bauch , raised to his memory by a public 
subscription, to which King William 





374 route 65.— Berlin 40 drRSDeIL Sect. V. 


Frederick III. of Prussia largely con¬ 
tributed. 

The name Halle (Greek a\s ?) is 
derived from the Salt Springs, which 
have been known from very remote 
times. The labourers employed in them 
are a peculiar and distinct race, called 
Halloren, supposed to be the descend¬ 
ants of the "Wends, who anciently peo¬ 
pled this country. They are said still 
to preserve the physiognomy, customs, 
and even costume of their ancestors. 
Some of the springs rise within the 
town, and are boiled there, but the 
Royal Salt Works ( Salinen ) are situated 
without the walls on an island in the 
Saale. The brine is pumped up by a 
steam-engine, and is conveyed to them 
in pipes; it is strong enough to be fit 
at once for boiling; the fuel used is the 
brown coal, which abounds in this 
neighbourhood. The annual produce is 
11,000 tons of salt, valued at 125,000 
dollars ; it forms almost the sole article 
of commerce, excepting porcelain earth, 
found near Halle, and used in the China 
works at Berlin. 

Outside the walls, on the E., is an 
elegant monument to the soldiery who 
died here of the wounds received in 
the battle of Leipzig, 1813. Here is 
buried Gesenius, the Hebrew scholar, 
hot far from the Cathedral . 

The old castle of Moritsburg was re¬ 
duced to a ruin during the Thirty Years’ 
War. ^ mile outside the gate is the castle 
of Giebichenstein (see above), and near 
it the Wittekind Bad, about 1 m. from 
Halle, much frequented in summer for 
its brine bathsi Carding thistles and 
carrawUys are largely cultivated in 
this neighbourhood: it also furnishes 
the greater portion of what are called 
Leipzig Larks, which are caught by the 
Halloren, and sent to Leipzig as dainties 
for the table. 

Railway to Wcissenfels, Weimar, and 
Eisenach (Route 86). 

An interesting excursion may be 
made from Halle to Krollwitz. 


Schkeuditz Stat. 

Ascending the valley of the Elster, 
we pass (1.) the battle-field of Breiten - 


fold, where Gustavus Adolphus defeated 
Tilly, 1631. On the highest ground 
upon the field, 2 m. from the Railway 
(1.), is a monument surrounded by 8 
fir trees. Mockcrn, close to the line 
(rt.), distinguished by its ch. spire, was 
a fiercely contested point during the 
battle of Leipzig, between the troops of 
York and Marmont, until Blucher 
drove back the French. 

V~ Leipzig. (Rte. 86.) Terminus 
between the suburbs of Halle and 
Grimma, close to that of the Dresden 
Railway. 


ROUTE 65. 

BERLIN TO DRESDEN.—RAILWAY. 

25j Germ. m. = 117 Eng. m. 

Trains twice a day each way, mom* 
ing and afternoon, in 6 hours. 

As far as 

8 | Jiiterbdg is described in Rte. 63. 
From JUterfiog the railway (10 Jr Germ, 
m.) runs W. of the old post road, pass¬ 
ing by (1.) Herzberg and (rt.) Miihl* 
berg, the battlefield, 1547 (see Rte. 87), 
and falls into the Leipzig and Dresden 
railway, at Roderau, near 

Riesa Junct. Stat., close to the via¬ 
duct. See, for the railroad thence to 

(6^- Germ, m.) Dresden, and descrip¬ 
tion of Dresden, Rte. 37. 










Prussia. 


ROUTE 66 .—COLOGNE TO BERLIN. 


ROUTE G6. 

COLOGNE TO BERLIN, BY MINDEN, 

HANOVER, BRUNSWICK, MAGDEBURG 

—COLOGNE AND MINDEN RAILWAY. 

To Minden, trains in hrs.; express 
6 f hrs. To Berlin, 865 = 403 Eng. 
m. — Express in 12^ to 13£ hrs., 
allowing time for refreshment at 
Minden. 

The Station is in Deutz, on the op¬ 
posite side of the river to Cologne; but 
express trains start from the Central 
Bahnhof, in Cologne, crossing the Rhine 
by the permanent iron bridge. 

2 Miilheim Stat. Rte. 34. 

1 ^ Kiippersteg Stat. 

1 Langenfeld Stat. The "Wupper is 
crossed. 

1 Benrath Stat. 

1 Diisseldorf Stat. See Rte. 34, 

1 Calkum Stat. ^ m. from Kaisers- 
werth, the asylum of Pastor Fliedner, 
and not far from Schloss Ileltorf, Rte, 
35. 

1 Grossenbaum Stat. 

3 Duisburg Stat. See Rte. 34. 

After leaving Duisburg, the line, 

which has hitherto run in nearly a N. 
direction, turns to the E., and crosses 
the river Ruhr, about half-way between 
Duisburg and 

1 Oberhausen Junct. Stat. (Buffet). 
Railways to Emmerich and Holland 
(Rte. 34) ; to Ruhrort on the Rhine, 
and thence direct to Aix-la-Chapelle 
(Rte. 36 a). About 80 trains pass this 
stat. daily. Near Oberhausen are the 
Iron-works of Jacobi and Co., nearly 
the largest in Germany. There are 
extensive coalfields on the banks of 
the Ruhr, and about 4 m. S. of this 
station lies Miihlheim on the Ruhr, an 


375 

industrious town of 6400 Inhab., where 
steam engines are made. It is con¬ 
nected with the main line by a branch 
railroad. 

1 Berge-Borbeck Stat. A coal stat. 

1 Essen Stat. The town, 1 ^ m. from 
the Railway (Schmidt’s, Sauer’s, and 
Berghaus’s Inns), is not seen from the 
line. It was a Free City down to 1563, 
when it was placed under a Princess 
Abbess; it has now become a manufac¬ 
turing town of rapid rise: has already 
32,000 Inhab. It lies in a productive 
coal-field. Its handsome * Minster, re¬ 
built 1265-1316, retains Romanesque 
portions. Its W. front and choir, 
forming 3 sides of an octagon, are a 
copy of the Dom of Aix. Here is a 
huge bronze 7-armed candlestick, gift 
of Mechtildis, sister of the Emperor 
Otho III., 998. In the sacristy are 
precious reliquaries, crosses, &c. The 
Protestants ( 12 , 000 ) have had a Ch. 
here since 1561; the building is of the 
11 th cent. Chimneys rise on all sides. 
Krupp’s Cast-steel Works is the most 
conspicuous Factory. It is famed for 
the production of colossal ordnance of 
the most scientific kinds. The enormous 
scale of his works is shown by the fact 
that they cover 450 acres of ground, 
and employ 8000 men and 195 steam- 
engines :* 3500 guns have been made 
by Krupp, and he has orders for 2200 
more, blit on trial they have been sur¬ 
passed by Armstrongs. After leaving 
this, until the next station but one is 
reached, the line passes over a rich 
coal-field. 

1 Gelsenkirchen Stat. 

1 Herne-Bochum Stat. 

1 Kastrop Stat. 

1 Mengede Stat, 

1 Dortmund Junct. Stat. Inns: Romis- 
cher Kaiser;—Bellevue, near the Stat. 
33,400 Inhab. This ancient walled 
city was once a free Imperial Hanse 
town, and chief seat of the Vehme. In 
the Bahnhof itself was the place of 
meeting of the most celebrated of all 
the tribunals held in the district of 
the “ Red earth.” Under the venerable 
lime-tree still growing on the W. side 
of the station (the second was blown 
down 1859) the naked sword of justice 
and the willow-wythe were laid upon a 





stone table before the assembled judges. 
In 1429 the Emp. Sigismund was ini¬ 
tiated in “ the Konigshof under the 
lime-tree at Dortmund,” kneeling on 
his right knee bared, with head un¬ 
covered, before the Freigraf, his 2 fore¬ 
fingers of right hand on the cord, 2 
swords laid crosswise before him. Thus 
he took the oath to keep the secrets of 
the Yehme, and received the watch¬ 
word “ Strick, Stein, Grass, Grcin,” the 
meaning of which, as well as of the 
Nothwort “ Reinir dor Fcweri,” has 
been so well kept that its meaning is 
no longer understood. ^In the process 
of time the Yehme degenerated into a 
sort of police court, and the last meeting 
was held here 1803. See the Ch. of 
St. Reinhold —a rich Pointed Gothic 
choir (1421-50), attached to a nave of 
1250 ; it has good painted glass. Ohs. 
the carved altarpiece; 2 wooden sta¬ 
tues of St. Reinhold and Charlemagne; 
a bronze font; lettern, eagle, and chan¬ 
delier. St. Mary's (12th cent., with 
Pointed choir) and the Catholic Churches 
contain much that is worth notice. 
The Rathhaus (13th cent.) is one of 
the oldest town-halls in Germany. 
The Marienkirche also contains 2 re¬ 
markable altarpieces by painters of 
the Westphalian school, while in the 
Cath. Ch. is a very large altarpiece of 
the brothers Yictor and H. Diinwegge 
(1521), natives of Dortmund. Dort¬ 
mund is now a place of considerable 
manufacturing industry. 

Here the Railway from Elberfeld and 
the Duchy of Berg to Hagen and Soest 
joins the Minden line. (See Rte. 67.) 

The railroad next passes through the 
extremely fertile district called the Hell- 
weg, the N. part of the Grafschaft Mark. 

2 Karnen Stat. [A little to the S. of 
this lies Unna.— Inn, Konig von Preus- 
scn. Between this town and the station 
are the very extensive salt works, sup¬ 
plied by brine springs, and the newly 
opened baths of Konigsborn. Here was 
the head-quarters of the Vehmgericht 
(see Rt<5. 67).] 

2 Hamm Junction Stat. (Inn: 
Prinz v. Preussen, at the Stat.) Here 
branch Railways turn off N. to Munster 
(see Rte. 69), and E. to Paderbom and 


Sect. V. 

Cassel (Rte. 68 ). Hamm on the Lippe 
is the principal town of the Grafschaft 
Mark, and has 14,000 Inhab., 3 Pro¬ 
testant churches and 1 Catholic. Across 
the Lippe. 

3 Beckum Stat. 

1 Oelde Stat. 

1 Rheda Stat. The Ems, which falls 
into the sea at Emden, is crossed. 

1 Gutersloh Stat.— Inn , Rieter’s. His 
Westphalian hams (the best cost about 
4 groschen a-pound) and the spirit ex¬ 
tracted from wachholder berries, called 
steenhager, are celebrated. The black 
bread (pumpernickel) is peculiar to 
W estphalia. 

2 Brackwedc Stat. 

1 Bielefeld Stat. — Inns: Dreikro- 
nen; Ravensberger Hof. The centre 
of the Westphalian linen trade; a town 
of 16,500 Inhab. In St. Martin’s Ch. are 

2 old monuments and some paintings. 
On a neighbouring hill rises the round 
tower of the Castle Sparenberg , erected 
1545 and fortified according to A. Dii- 
rer’s system, on the site of an older 
Guelphic fortress: it is now a prison. 
The surrounding country of the Teuto- 
burger Wald and the walks around the 
town are pretty. A coach goes hence 
to Pyrmont daily in summer. There is 
a good road to Detmold from Bielefeld, 

3 G. m. Rte. 69 a. 

It is supposed that Hermann (Ar- 
minius) fought the great battle against 
the Romans (Clades Varana) some¬ 
where on the banks of the Senne : and 
the numerous tumuli on its banks, with 
the urns and other funeral remains 
found in and about them, confirm the be¬ 
lief. (See Rte. 68 and 69 a.) Near Brake 
a Yiaduct 1200 feet long is crossed. 

2 Herford Stat.— Inns: Stadt Ber¬ 
lin ; Wessel’s Hotel. On the Werre, a 
small stream; 11,346 Inhab. The Mun¬ 
ster Kirche, a vast Romanesque build¬ 
ing (13th cent.) resembling the Dom 
of Paderbom, was formerly attached to 
a nunnery, whose abbess was a prin¬ 
cess. St. John’s contains good painted 
glass of 15th cent. The Stiftskirche 
(St. Marien auf der Berg), outside the 
town, is a beautiful Gothic edifice, 14th 
cent., composed of 3 aisles of equal 
breadth. A carved altar-piece of open 
work deserves notice. In the streets 


ROUTE 66>.—DORTMUND. HERFORD. 




Prussia. 


377 


ROUTE 66.—MINDEN. BUCKEBURG. 


are several quaint and picturesque 
houses, stone and wood, of lGth cent. 

[In the Ch. of Engers, 5 m. to the E., 
is shown the tomb of Witte kind, chief of 
the Saxons, 12 th cent. This now obscure 
village was the scat of the government 
of Wittekind, the most formidable oppo¬ 
nent of Charlemagne. About 20 m. 
S.E. lies Detmold. (See Ete. 69 a.) 

1 Eehme Junct. St at. Inn , Yogeler’s. 
Railway to Osnabriick and to Elze. Here 
are considerable salt-works belonging to 
the Prussian government; the salt water 
obtained from an artesian well bored to 
a depth of 3220 ft., perhaps the deepest 
in the world. It is converted into brine, 
fit for boiling,by causing it to evaporate 
in trickling over stacks of faggots. The 
brine rises with a temperature of 92° 
Fahr., and possesses valuable medicinal 
properties: it is much used in brine- 
baths, which have been established 
at the watering-place, called Oeyn- 
hausen. (Anns: Yogeler’s; Victoria). 
Physician, Dr. Alfter; speaks English. 
The waters are efficacious in rheuma¬ 
tism and lameness. The railroad here 
crosses the river Weser. 

Lohne June „ Stat. Here the Ely. 
from Osnabriick and Emden (Etc. 69), 
from Salzbergen, Zutphen, Arnhem, 
and Eotterdam (Ete. 10 ) falls in. 

2 Porta Stat. 

Within about 2 m. of Minden the 
railroad traverses the pass called Porta 
Westphalica. It is a wide rent in 
the undulating chain of mountains 
called Wiehengebirge, through which 
the river Wcser finds a passage to the 
sea, traversing a plain above as well as 
below the pass. The hills on either 
side of this breach, the “door-posts,” 
as it were, of the gates, showing at 
their base rocks of red sandstone, are 
called Jacobsberg and Wittekindsberg; 
the last is named from a castle of the 
Saxon hero which once stood on it, and 
is now replaced by a Belvedere or stone 
tower. Near it is a ruined chapel in 
which, according to the tradition, Witte¬ 
kind was baptized by Charlemagne. 
The view from the tops of these hills is 
very extensive. The Wcser, the high 
road on its 1. bank and the railroad on 
its rt., fill up the pass. Here are quar¬ 
ries of red building-stone (sandstone). 


1 Minden Stat. 

Minden (Preussisch)— Inns , Eisen- 
bahngasthof, tolerable ; Twietmayer’s 
H., near the Stat.; Victoria; Stadt 
London—is a strong fortress, belonging 
to Prussia, with 15,800 Inhab. in¬ 
cluding garrison, on the Weser, which 
is crossed by a stone bridge, 600 ft. 
long, built in 1518. It was the resi¬ 
dence of several early German Em¬ 
perors, and many Diets were held 
here. The Cathedral is a cruciform 
building, of 13th cent. Gothic, not 
very large, but containing 6 windows 
in the aisles, remarkable for their 
fan-shaped tracery — truly magnificent 
—“running riot in its foliations.” 
The plain and massive W. end and 
tower ( 11 th cent.) and chancel arch 
are Eomanesque. The cloisters good 
and perfect. Near them is a house 
of Eomanesque architecture. In the 
Church is a painting by H. Alde- 
grever, a Westphalian artist, early in 
the 16th cent., of Wittekind coming 
to Charlemagne to be baptized. St. 
Martin's , on a height, approached 
by steps, commands a pleasing view. 
Obs. the delicate tracery in its apse, 
and the carved stone seats. 

The fortifications were blown up by 
Frederick the Great at the end of the 
Seven Years’ War, but have since been 
renewed and lately enlarged on account 
of the railway. The French blew up 
one arch of the stone bridge 1813, and 
it is replaced by a wooden one. 

N. of the town, around the village of 
Todtenhausen, lies the field of the 
Battle of Minden , gained by Prince 
Ferdinand of Brunswick over the French 
in 1759. A Gothic monument since 
1859 marks the spot. 

Steamers on the Weser, down to Bre¬ 
men, and up to Minden. 

rt. Between Minden and Hanover the 
Wesergebirge, a fine range of hills, 
bounds the horizon. 

Biickeburg Stat. (Inns: Deutsches 
Ilaus; Berliner Hof) is the chief town 
of the little principality of Schaumburg - 
Lippe, and contains 2000 Inhab. The 
prince resides in a large and ugly 
Palace, with a pretty garden and park. 
[About 9 m. from Biickeburg, through 





378 


ROUTE 66.—HANOVER. PALACE. 


Sect. V. 


Eilsen (a sulphur bath), Arnsburg, and 
Bernsen, rises the Paschenburg , one of 
the highest hills on the Weser (1115ft.), 
surmounted by an Inn: a very extensive 
view—looking down upon the old castle 
of Schaumburg , the course of the Weser 
discerned in 19 different spots, the 
Brocken, the Grotenberg, and about 
100 towns and villages.] 

Stadthagen Stat. The handsome 
mausoleum of Prince Ernest, attached 
to the church, deserves notice. 

Haste Stat. [About 4 m. S. of this 
lies Nenndorf, a watering-place belong¬ 
ing to the Elector of Hesse, who has a 
chateau here. Strangers are accom¬ 
modated in the three bath-houses, and 
there is a table-d’hote daily, during the 
season, in the Arkaden Saal. The waters 
are cold and strongly sulphureous, and 
are used for dr inkin g as well as for 
baths. Saline baths are furnished from 
the salt-works at Bodenberg, also mud- 
baths of peat impregnated with sul¬ 
phur. They are useful in gout, asthma, 
paralysis, and gunshot wounds.] 

Wunstorf Junction. Stat. Here is 
the junction of the Railroad from 
Bremen (Rte. 72 a). The Leine river 
is crossed; rt. is Herrenhausen Palace 
(see next page). 

Hanover Station, a handsome build¬ 
ing. — Hanover (Germ. Hannover).— 
Inns, near the Stat.: British Hotel, civil 
landlord; first-rate B. ; 1st floor, 15 S. 
gr.; service, 7 5 S. gr.; table-d’hote at 
1 and 4, 20 S. gr. without wine ;— 
H. Royal (room and light, 16 g. gr.; 
dinner, 12 ; breakfast, 6 ; service, 4 g. 
gr.);—H.de Russie, moderate;—Union 
H.: all first-class hotels;—VictoriaII.; 

■—H. de 1’ Europe. In the town : H. de 
Hannovre; good and moderate. 

Reading-Room , English and American 
journals ; Alex. Simon, 30, Schiller-st. 

The capital of the kingdom of Hanover 
is situated in a plain on the Leine, a small 
stream, and has 76,000 Inhab. The 
site is healthy; it is resorted to by 
strangers as a residence, on account 
of its excellent schools and the purity 
with which the German language is 
spoken. Great improvements have 
taken place since the permanent resi¬ 
dence of the Court, in 1837, and its 


annexation to Prussia in 1866. A new 
quarter, of scattered houses, gardens, 
and terraces, not unlike the Regent’s 
Park, has risen up near the Rly. 
Stat. since 1842. The old town, 
though dull, is remarkable for con¬ 
siderable quaintness and picturesque¬ 
ness of its house architecture, but 
many of the Gothic houses are pulled 
down. 

The *Rogal Palace (Schloss) is a 
handsome building, overlooking the 
Waterloo Platz, and is fitted up in 
a style of considerable splendour. The 
Ritter Saal is a fine apartment. There 
is a large collection of portraits: among 
them are those of Elizabeth Queen of 
Bohemia; Geo. I., II., III., and IV.; 
Wm. IV.; the Duke of Wellington on 
a grey horse, by Lucas; Pitt, by Law¬ 
rence; Napoleon before Ratisbon, Adolph 
Adam; and numerous pictures of the 
modern German school. The Reli- 
quarium, or Sacristy of the Schloss- 
kirche, was filled with relics in shrines 
and cases of silver and enamel, of 
early date and curious art, which 
once formed the treasure of the Dom 
at Brunswick. Some of the relics 
were brought from the Holy Land by 
Henry the Lion. Among 6 or 8 port¬ 
able altars, chiefly of champ-levee 
enamel, is one of more rare cloi- 
sonnee enamel, beautifully wrought 
with columns and arches ; 10 cases, in 
the shape of arms and hands, chiefly 
14th century; a vase, worked with 
dragon’s heads; a chasse, in the form 
of a church, with a dome covered with 
enamels ; many small figures carved in 
walrus-tusk ivory; other ivory carv¬ 
ings; one Byzantine of 12th or 13th 
century, very fine. These treasures 
have been removed to Vienna. 

Some of the finest buildings are col¬ 
lected around the square called * Waterloo 
Platz, which serves also as a parade- 
ground. N. the picturesque Schloss, en¬ 
circled by the Leine; S. the Waterloo 
Column, 162 ft. high, surmounted by 
Victory, and inscribed with the names 
of the Hanoverians, privates as well as 
officers, who fell in the battle : on either 
side barracks. E., in the background, 
the Cadettenhaus. On the N. side of the 
square stands a statue of Gen. Count 




Prussia* 


379 


ROUTE 66.—HANOVER. HERRENHAUSEN. 


Alten, commander of the Hanoverian 
Legion in Spain (d. 1840). Opposite is 
the great Arsenal, built 1846. W., on a 
hillock, stands a circular Temple, en¬ 
closing Leibnitz’s bust. 

The Theatre (1851), of Italian archi¬ 
tecture, near the Ely. Stat., is one of 
the most striking modem buildings 
in Germany. It is closed June to Sept. 
The Royal Stables are now used as a 
cavalry barracks and military Hiding 
Academy. 

In the old town, the Rathhaus is a 
good specimen of brickwork (1455), 
ornamented in front with coats of arms 
and full-length figures in baked clay. 
The Markt Kirche opposite, built of red 
brick (1350), is worth notice; carved pul¬ 
pit, seats, &c., and modern painted glass. 
In the Egidien Kirche are a carved altar- 
piece , painted and gilt, with reliefs of 
the Passion of Christ (? 1500), and a very 
fine bronze font, date 1450, supported 
on 5 lions, and adorned with 10 figures 
of saints. The streets of the old town 
abound in picturesque domestic archi- 
ture—gabled houses. Leibnitz’s house , 
with stone ornaments and scriptural 
bas-reliefs of terracotta in its front, is 
in the Schmiede Gasse, No. 10, a corner 
house. 

In the vaultsbeneath the Schlosshirche , 
a brick edifice with handsome interior, 
repaired 1852, are buried George I., 
and his mother the Electress Sophia. 

The Royal Library contains 120,000 
volumes—2000 MSS. Leibnitz’s arm- 
chair, in which he studied and breathed 
his last, and a great number of his MSS., 
are also preserved here. Among the 
books are ‘ Cicero’s Offices,’ printed on 
vellum by Fust, at Mayence. At the end 
is the date, 1465, with a statement that 
the book was executed “ neither with a 
pen, nor a pen of brass, but by a certain 
art.” The ‘ Biblion Pauperum,’—an 
illuminated missal, given by Charles V. 
to Henry VIII. ‘The Book of Esther,’ 
written with a pen, and illustrated by 
costly drawings, deserves notice. A 
large collection of autograph letters of 
remarkable persons are also included in 
this library. 

The Picture Gallery of Baurathllaus- 
mann, 4, Holzmarkt, is important; it con¬ 
tains a genuine Giorgione, and several 


works of the Westphalian master Ra- 
phon; it is liberally shown to strangers, 
on presenting their cards. It has been 
purchased by the king. 

The Landschaftliches Hans , an elegant 
modern building, designed for the 
meetings of the Estates of Hanover, is 
no longer required for that purpose. 
The handsome Opera-house was built by 
George V. 

Herschel, the astronomer, was born 
here ; he was originally musician in the 
royal band ; Leibnitz and Zimmermann 
died here; Zimmermann is buried in 
the public cemetery, Leibnitz in the 
Neustadter Kirche. The brothers Schle- 
gel and Iffland were also natives of 
Hanover. 

Tivoli is a Concert garden, where 
there is excellent music in summer. 
Near it is an excellently constructed 
Aquarium. 

At Linden , on the outskirts, is a large 
Cotton Factory , and fabric of loco¬ 
motives, begun by Geo. Egesdorf, now 
the property of Dr. Strausberg of Ber¬ 
lin, who has built 400 model cottages 
for his workmen. 

A prettily laid out park, intersected 
by drives, and by a grand double avenue 
of limes more than m. long, extends 
from the town to the Koyal Palace of 
Ilerrenhausen. It is a low tasteless 
building, and is now deserted and out of 
order, but contains some royal portraits 
connected with English history. Also 
the Welf Museum, a collection of Celtic 
and old German antiquities, formed by 
the late John Kemble from diggings in 
the Luneburg Heath. In the Mediaeval 
room are preserved many instruments 
of judicial torture. It was the favour¬ 
ite residence of George I. and II., and 
was built by the former for his mis¬ 
tress, Countess Platen : his smoking- 
room is still preserved. 

In the Stables may be seen some of 
the cream-coloured horses of the breed 
which for 2 centuries have drawn the 
Kings and Queens of England. The 
Coach-house contains splendid state car¬ 
riages, some of them 200 years old. 

The Gardens , covering an area of 120 
acres, resorted to on Sundays, are laid 
out in a formal style, with straight 
walks, lined with high clipped hedges 






route 66. —Brunswick, museum. Sect. V. 


380 

(which in one place are made to form a 
sylvan theatre), and carpeted with turf, 
contain statues, a Palm-House , includ¬ 
ing’ one of the finest collections of 
palms in Europe, hot-houses, and 
splendid jets-d’eau. The Electress 
Sophia, mother of George I., and grand 
daughter of James I., dropped down 
dead while walking in these gardens. 
In the Royal Mausoleum , erected 1846, 
are monumental effigies of the late 
Queen of Hanover, Frederica, and of 
King Ernest Augustus (Duke of Cum¬ 
berland), by Rauch. 

Welfengarten (once Mont Brilliant), 
an unfinished castle and summer resi¬ 
dence, begun by George Y. 1857, has 
a pretty Park attached. 

Railways: to Bremen, Rte. 72 a; to 
Hamburg, Rte. 59 ; to Hildesheim ; to 
Cassel. 

Schnellposts to Pyrmont; to Hameln. 

Lehrte Junction Stat. Here is the 
j unction of the Railways from Harhurg 
(Rte. 59) and Hildesheim. (Rte. 72.) 

Peine Stat. 1. see the spire of Sie- 
vershausen , where Maurice of Saxony, 
rival of Charles V., fell in battle, 1553. 

Yechelde Stat. 

Brunswick Station (Germ. Braun¬ 
schweig) .— Inns: *H. d’ Angleterre ; 
* Deutsches Haus; H. de Prusse; 
Prinz Wilhelm. 

The capital of the Duchy and long 
the residence of the Dukes of Bruns¬ 
wick is a very ancient town on the 
Ocker, with 50,500 Inhab.; cleanly 
in its streets, and displaying much pic¬ 
turesque architecture in its antique 
houses, many of wood, with dates on 
them of 1488-91-92. The latter half 
of the 14th, and beginning of the next 
century, was the golden age of Bruns¬ 
wick, when it became a place of great 
commercial importance, and a leading 
member of the Hanse League. It is no 
longer fortified, hut surrounded by plan¬ 
tations and pretty Walks , which occupy 
the site of the former ramparts. 

The Palace or Residenzschloss , a mag¬ 
nificent and tasteful building, erected 
from the designs of Ottmer, was burnt 
down by accident in 1865, a preceding 
Palace, called Graue Hof, having been 
burnt in 1839 by the mob. It has been 


rebuilt at the expense of the State. It 
is crowned by a chariot. 

The * Museum , in the Zeughaus (Ar¬ 
senal), near the Cathedral, well arranged 
and kept, consists of—1. Gallery of 
Paintings , containing many works of 
high merit, particularly two Jan Steens , 
the best pictures by that artist, probably, 
existing — one represents a Marriage 
Contract, the other a Merry Party; Van 
der Heist , a woman and child; Holbein, 
Sir.Thomas More, Luc. Cranach, Luther: 
—St. John in the Wilderness (Melanc- 
thon’s portrait); Rembrandt , two excel¬ 
lent portraits, in his clear manner, of 
Grotius and his wife, and a good stormy 
landscape ; Mierevelt , fine portraits of a 
Count and Countess of Nassau; Gior¬ 
gione (?) Adam and Eve, a very good 
picture, though it is more probably a 
work of Palma Vecchio ; Steenwyk , the 
Deliverance of St. Peter, a large picture; 
a fine Guido , 391 ; a portrait said to be 
by Raphael; Teniers, sen., a Chemist; 
Schwartz , an Old Man; 162, Ruysdael , a 
Waterfall; G. Dou , his own Portrait; 
314 and 327, Alb. Diirer , 2 Portraits ; 
473, Rembrandt , with his Wife and 3 
Children; ditto, 466, an Entombment; 
449, Honthorst, Boy with Flute. 160 
pictures out of this collection were 
transported to Paris by the French. 
The greater part were originally in the 
gallery at Salzdahlum. 

2 . A collection of Natural History of 
second-rate excellence: it includes some 
very perfect fossil bones of the Cave 
Bear from the Harz. 

3. Classical Antiquities. — Statues, 
bronzes, &c.,from Greece and Italy. The 
famous Mantuan Vase of onyx was car¬ 
ried away by the former Duke Charles. 

4. Antiquities, and Works of Art of 
more recent times. At the head of 
them must be placed an exquisite carv¬ 
ing in steatite by Albert Diirer , repre¬ 
senting *St. John preaching in the Wil¬ 
derness. It is a masterpiece of its kind. 
Some of the figures are detached and 
finished all round, and in one or two 
instances, where their backs are turned 
outwards, it will be foimd that the faces 
are made out with the utmost delicacy 
and beauty, though there is barely 
room to pass the blade of a knife behind 
them, a fact which increases our ad- 



Prussia. 


381 


ROUTE 66.—BRUNSWICK. CATHEDRAL. 


miration of the dexterity of the artist. 
Here are preserved the uniform of 
Frederick the Great, worn at Mollwitz, 
in the Seven Years’ War; uniform and 
sword which the Duke of Brunswick 
carried at Quatre Bras; and Luther’s 
ring. There arc many other valuable 
objects of art and vertu : rich silver 
plate ; carvings in ivory, amber, wood; 
an ivoiy casket of Byzantine work, of 
11 th or 12th century ; another of bone, 
with Runic inscriptions ; the skull and 
armbone of St. Blaize, with 14 antique 
rings on the fingers; also a crucifix by 
M. Angelo, with bas-reliefs in silver by 
Ben. Cellini; and a collection of Majo¬ 
lica , amounting to 1100 pieces, chiefly 
of late date and coarse execution. This 
collection suffered by its trip to Paris ; 
as many of the finest specimens were 
missing on its return. Limoges enamels, 
collected by Tavernier to take to Persia 
—very fine. Kosciusko’s cup carved 
in prison. Fine MSS. of the Gospels, 
1000 or 1100; others with rich gold and 
ivory covers. 

The Museum is open to the public 
daily, except Monday, from 11 to 1 ; at 
other times, and in winter, admittance 
can only he obtained by special appli¬ 
cation to the Director, and by payment 
of a fee of 2 \ dols. 

The *Dorn or Cathedral of St. Blaize 
(patron of Brunswick) is a plain, solid 
Romanesque structure of great anti¬ 
quity, 1176-1250, begun by Henry 
the Lion, one of the most illustrious 
princes of the House of Guelph (from 
whom the royal family of England are 
descended), after his return from a pil¬ 
grimage in the Holy Land. It has 
been repaired and cleared of white¬ 
wash, by which some German frescoes 
of the 13th century have been laid bare 
in the transepts. The N. aisle is of 
much more recent date (1469), and is 
supported by lythe, twisted, or screw 
pillars, of the utmost elegance, and very 
unusual. The altar in front of the rood- 
loft is a slab of Purbeck marble, sup¬ 
ported by 5 bronze pillars; it was pre¬ 
sented by the Duchess Matilda. The 
seven-branched brass candlestick (a 
copy of that in the temple of Jerusa¬ 
lem), on a pedestal ornamented with gro¬ 
tesque monsters, was made for Henry the 


Lion, and in the Byzantine style of art. 
Henry himself, and his wife Matilda, 
an English princess (daughter of Henry 
II. and sister of Richard Coeur de Lion), 
are buried in this church. Their effigies 
recline upon a sarcophagus in the central 
aisle. The Vaults beneath the church 
are the burial-place of the Ducal family. 
No fewer than 9 of the princes here in¬ 
terred perished on the field of battle. 
The most remarkable among this range 
of coffins, in the eyes of Englishmen, 
are those containing the bodies of the 
Duke, who was mortally wounded at 
the fatal battle of Jena, and of his son, 
who fell at Quatre Bras, having nobly 
avenged his father’s death, at the head 
of his devoted black band. “ Two small 
(black) flags, the one an offering from 
the matrons, the other from the maidens 
of Brunswick, are suspended above his 
coffin, still sprinkled with the brown 
and withering leaves of the garlands 
which the love of his people scattered 
on his bier, when at midnight he was 
laid among so many of his race who had 
fought and fallen like himself.”— Rus¬ 
sell. Beside the coffins of these two 
heroes is placed that of Caroline of 
Brunswick , consort of Geo. IY. The 
silver plate, sent from England, bore 
the words, dictated by herself, “ Mur¬ 
dered Queen of England,” but it was 
removed and replaced by another, in¬ 
scribed simply with the name, dates, 
and titles, in the usual form; the marks 
of the nails which fastened the original 
plate are still visible. 

Some of the relics brought by Henry 
the Lion from Palestine, which cost 
him vast sums, are preserved in an ante¬ 
chamber leading into the Royal vault; 
one of them, which the monks had 
palmed upon his credulity as a “ Grif¬ 
fin’s claw,” and which long passed 
for such, turns out to be the 
curved horn of a particular species of 
antelope! Here are also shown the 
ivory horn and pipe of St. Blaize; a 
statue of Henry the Lion made pro¬ 
bably in his lifetime; a singular pillar 
of wood, bearing the emblems of the 
Passion of Christ , as the spear, nails, 
crown of thorns; St. Veronica’s hand¬ 
kerchief; St. Peter’s sword; the high 
priest’s servant’s ear; the cock which 



382 


ROUTE 66.—BRUNSWICK. WOLFENBUTTEL. 


Sect. V. 


crew, &c. See. The hone of a whale or 
mammoth, in this vault, long passed 
for one of Goliath’s ribs ! The sacris¬ 
tan, who keeps the key of the ch., 
lives in a house opposite the N. door. 
Fee, 20 S. gr. 

In the centre of the square near the 
Cathedral stands an ancient bronze Lion, 
of stiff Byzantine workmanship, set up 
on this spot 1166 by Henry the Lion. 

In the *AIt Stadtmarkt is a rich Gothic 
fountain of bronze, ornamented with 
figures, devices, and coats of arms: 
date 1408. The Mansion House (. Alt - 
stadt Rathhaus) , a beautiful specimen of 
German architecture (about 1393), hav¬ 
ing statues of Guelphic princes in front. 
The Rathskeller opposite, also a remark¬ 
able Gothic building, is deserted and 
decayed: its dungeons are turned into 
wine-cellars. 

The Churches are all interesting. 
*St. Martin’s, opposite the Bathhaus, is 
of the 13th cent., except St. Anne’s 
chapel, at the S.W. angle, a gem of 
late Gothic (1441), not unlike the Lady 
Chapel at Ely. Its brass font has been 
styled the finest in Europe, supported on 
4 figures, its sides panelled with 7 bas- 
reliefs. Observe also the pulpit and 4 
altars with sculptures. 

*Barfusser, or Bruder-Kirche, per¬ 
haps most worth notice after the 
cathedral, on account of its Font of 
bronze (1450). Its basin is carried by 
statues of the 4 rivers of Paradise; 
around it 16 compartments in relief 
—the Crucifixion, Virgin, Apostles, 
Saints, &c.; and its altarpiece, a triptych 
of carved wood painted—in the centre 
the Crucifixion, and in the shutters 2 
canopied rows of saints. 

Petri Kirche contains a bronze font 
and a brass of an ecclesiastic. St. An¬ 
drew’s Ch. (1200-1340, finished in the 
middle of the 16th cent.) is ornamented 
externally on the S. side with figures 
of cripples (d. 1400). 

St. Catherine's Ch. (latter half of 13th 
cent., choir finished 1450) resembles St. 
Andrew’s, andisan ornament to the town, 
Here are some fine monuments of the 
16-18th cent., and painted glass, 1553. 

The old houses, Nos, 772, 773, in the 
Breiten St., and No. 456, Stein St., 
have curious carvings of the 15th cent. 


Close to the August Thor, on the 
finest site that the levelled ramparts 
afford, a cast-iron obelisk, 60 ft. high, 
has been set up by the citizens to the 
memory of their two dukes, who fell at 
Jena and Quatre Bras. 

About a mile outside the Stein Thor 
a monument and chapel have been erected 
to the memory of the brave hut luckless 
Schill (Rte. 76) and his companions in 
arms, 14 of whom were shot here by the 
French. Schill’s head, formerly pre¬ 
served in spirits at Leiden, is now 
buried under the monument along with 
his body, and his bust, a gift of the 
King of Bavaria, is deposited in the 
chapel, along with many other relics of 
the War of Independence. Schill 
headed a patriotic rising against the 
French in 1808, which, though pre¬ 
mature, and quickly suppressed, led the 
way to the well-concerted opposition to 
Napoleon, which, in 1814, freed Ger¬ 
many from his thraldom. 

The famous corps of Black Bruns- 
wickers, remarkable for their bravery 
and devotion to their princes, as well as 
for their sable uniform, black horsehair 
plume, and ominous death’s head and 
cross-hones, are the Duke’s body-guard. 

Acelebrated Fair is held at Brunswick. 

Spohr the composor was horn 1784, 
at No. 7, Monchs Street, corner of 
CEgidien-Kirkhof. 

In the Lessings Platz is a fine statue 
of Lessing by Rietschel. In the small 
Magni Kirchhof is his grave (d. 1781), 
marked by a simple stone. 

A handsome Theatre was erected 
1861, near the Stein-Thor. 

The Railroad from Brunswick to Mag¬ 
deburg runs near the Ducal chateaux of 
Richmond and Williamscastle, to 

1 -1 Wolfenbiittel Junction Stat. {Inn, 
Golden Lowe), a town of 9000 Inhab., 
on the Ocker, remarkable for its Library 
of 220,000 vols., containing some of 
the finest missals in Europe and a vast 
number of Bibles, among them Luther’s 
Bible, with notes in his own hand. 
His marriage ring, doctor’s ring, spoon, 
drinking glass, and his portrait by 
Cranach, are also preserved here. A 
missal, with miniatures by Albert Durer, 
carried off from Munich by Gust. Adol- 





Prussia. 


383 


ROUTE 66.- 

phus. MSS., Mceso-Gothic, Icelandic, 
Latin of 12th and 13th cents., Cufic, 
Greek; Sachsenspiegel (Saxon laws) 
full of figures. 

Lessing lived a long time here, as 
librarian to the Duke. 

[A branch railroad is carried from 
Wolfenbiittel to Harz burg, 6 Germ. m. 
= 28^ Eng. m., in the vicinity of 
Goslar. By means of it the excursion 
to the Harz (Rte. 73) may be con¬ 
veniently made from Brunswick. At 
Harzburg Stat. is a good restaurant 
and hotel; Braunschweiger Hof. Car¬ 
riages, guides, and asses may be hired 
here. Harzburg consists of a few 
scattered houses at the foot of the 
mountains.] 

2 j Schoppenstadt Stat. 

1 | Jerxheim Junct. Stat. Branch Ely. 
to Helmstadt (Inn : Deutsches Haus). 

2 Wegersleben Stat. The wooded 
hills of the Harz (the Brocken) appear 
against the S. horizon. 

li Gross-Oscherslebcn Junct. Stat. 

(A branch railway hence to Halber- 
stadt, 2| Germ. m. Rte. 74.) 

1 Hadmersleben Stat. 

2 Langenweddingen Stat. 

Within a circle of a few miles from 
Magdeburg lies some of the most fertile 
corn-land in Germany. It is, however, 
an open and unpicturesque plain, with 
scarcely a hedge or tree visible. Much 
chicory is cultivated in this district; 
as well as beetroot for sugar, and pota¬ 
toes for brandy; and the forest of chim¬ 
neys belonging to these works give 
Magdeburg the aspect of a manufactur¬ 
ing town rather than a fortress. Most 
of the churches of Magdeburg have twin 
towers nearly alike, so that seven pair 
of steeples may be perceived on ap¬ 
proaching it, rising above the level lines 
of green ramparts. 

2 Magdeburg Junction Stat .—Inns : 
Edel’s Hotel; London Hotel; * Erz- 
herzog Stephan, close to the Stat., bad 
smells. 

The capital of the Prussian province 
of Saxony is built on the Elbe, and has 
98,000 Inhab., including the garrison 
(7600) and 3000 R. Catholics. It is a 
fortress of the first class, and from the 
augmentation and improvement in its 


-MAGDEBURG. 

defences since the war is considered 
one of the strongest in Europe. Owing 
to its vast extent, it could not be in¬ 
vested by an army of less than from 
50,000 to 100,000 men. Tho Citadel , 
on an island of the Elbe, one of tho 
oldest parts of tho fortifications, serves 
also as a state prison; Lafayette and 
Carnot were confined in it. The famous 
Baron Trcnck was long imprisoned in 
the Stern Schanze (Star Bastion), out¬ 
side the Sudenberger Thor : it is con¬ 
sidered one of the strongest points. 
The latest erected defences are Fort 
Scharnhorst and the Thurm Schanze. 
In spite of, or rather in consequence of, 
the strength of its bulwarks, M agdeburg 
has endured the miseries of war at dif¬ 
ferent times, and to a terrible extent, 
especially during the Thirty Years’ War. 
It resisted the army of Wallenstein for 
7 months (1629), but was taken at the 
end of 2 years (1631) by the ferocious 
Tilly, who carried it by assault, sacked 
it, and massacred 30,000 of its inha¬ 
bitants without distinction of age or 
sex, with accompaniments of brutality 
and atrocity which alone will serve to 
affix for ever the above epithet to his 
name. The church of St. John, in which 
many hundred women had taken refuge, 
was nailed up and burnt, and the troop¬ 
ers, fastening to their saddle-girths the 
wives and daughters of murdered citi¬ 
zens, dragged them off to the camp. 
In the despatch in which Tilly an¬ 
nounced the capture, he says, “ Since 
the destruction of Jerusalem and Troy, 
such a victory has not been.” The gate 
by which he entered the town still con¬ 
tinues walled up, and upon the House 
of the commandant, whom he beheaded, 
may be still read the words, “Remem¬ 
ber the 10th of May, 1631.” After this 
calamity only 139 houses were left 
standing. In 1806 the Fortress, though 
garrisoned by 20,000 men, was sur¬ 
rendered to the French by General 
Kleist after 14 days’ siege. The last 
siege was the long and obstinate one 
which it endured in 1813-14. 

Magdeburg, from its position on the 
Elbe, is the entrepot of the merchandize 
which enters Germany by that river, 
and is a place of considerable manufac¬ 
turing industry, as well as of active 




384 


ROUTE 66.—MAGDEBURG. CATHEDRAL. 


I 


Sect. V. 


commerce. A canal, commencing 20 m. 
below the town, unites the Elbe with the 
Havel. The chief street is the Breite- 
weg , running N. and S. through the 
town ; and the only fine building is 
The * Cathedral , surmounted by 2 pair 
of towers, one of the noblest Gothic edi¬ 
fices of N. Germany, date 1211 to 1363. 
It was shamefully injured, and turned 
into a warehouse and stable, by the 
French, but has been repaired, at the 
cost of 300,000 dollars, by the Prussian 
government. All the lower part of the 
building dates from about 1200. It suc¬ 
ceeded an older Dom, erected by the 
Empr. Otho I., of which a curious model 
is preserved in a side chapel. 3 imposing 
colossal statues behind the choir, various 
marble and granite columns, and per¬ 
haps the small figures now in the walls 
of the choir, belonged to the old Dom. 
This ch. is 364 ft. long. The roof of 
the nave is 110 ft. high. The tomb of 
the Empr. Otho I. and his queen Editha 
(daughter of Edmund King of the Anglo- 
Saxons) is of the 14th cent. Observe the 
elegant horseshoe arches of the E. end; 
the apse with beautiful marble shafts; 
the stone roodloft (begun 1443), rich in 
carved foliage and other ornaments of 
good design; and the carvings of the 
stalls. The pulpit of alabaster, now 
sadly mutilated, is the work of one 
Sebastian Extel, 1594; there is a monu¬ 
ment by the same hand in the church. 
The variety and beauty of the Ro¬ 
manesque capitals and tympana are 
remarkable. The dog-tooth ornament 
occurs in the triforium, and on the 
exterior at the AY. end. The cloisters 
deserve a visit. 

In a chapel at the AY. end, singu¬ 
larly placed between the two towers 
where the principal entrance ought 
to be, is the monument of Archbp. 
Ernest (1495), executed in bronze by 
the celebrated artist of Nuremberg, 
Peter Vischer. The figures of the 12 
Apostles around it are worthy of mi¬ 
nute examination as works of art of 
great excellence. A branched bronze 
candelabrum and 2 chandeliers, as well 
as the iron screen, are of ancient work. 
Among other remarkable monuments 
is that of one Bake, a canon of the 
cathedral, who saved the building from j 


destruction by interceding on its be¬ 
half with Tilly, whose schoolfellow ho 
had been; also that of the Frau von 
Asseburg, who returned home the night 
after her burial, and lived with her 
husband for 9 years after her first in¬ 
terment ; a story which the sexton will 
not fail to tell. Tilly’s helmet and 
gloves are shown here. 

Against the walls are placed tablets 
bearing the names of the men of Mag¬ 
deburg who fell in the AYar of Libera¬ 
tion, with this simple heading:—“ Aus 
dieser Stadt starben fur Konig und 
A r aterland.” In order to see the fine 
view of the town from the top of the 
towers 350 ft. high, permission must be 
obtained from the commandant, and is 
not always granted; but you can ascend 
as far as the roof with the Dom-Custos. 
In St. Sebastian’s Church is the grave 
of Otto Guerike, the inventor of the 
air-pump. 

In the Alte Marht , opposite the 
Rathhaus, stands an equestrian statue , in 
sandstone, of the Empr. Otho, with his 
two queens, one on either side. It is the 
oldest monument in Magdebiu-g, erect¬ 
ed by the grateful citizens after his 
death (973). 

The * Public Gardens , called Frie¬ 
drich AYilhelms Garten, outside the 
Sudenberger gate, and by the side of 
the Elbe, are really tastefully laid out, 
command fine views, and are a great 
resource to the townspeople. The Furs- 
tenwall {Prince’s Pampart ), a sort of 
terrace and parade-ground running along 
the margin of the Elbe, was named from 
Prince Leopold of Dessau. Beneath 
it are casemates, whose chimneys pro¬ 
ject through the ground among the 
trees. They are now partly occupied 
as railway offices attached to the Ber¬ 
lin Terminus. 

Luther went to school at Magdeburg, 
and has recorded in his writings that 
while a poor scholar here he often sang 
in the streets and at rich men’s doors 
(as is still the custom with poor cho¬ 
risters) to earn a scanty pittance, which 
helped to support him. 

The French republican General Car- 
not is buried in the churchyard outside 
the Krokenthor; he received an asylum 
here from the Prussians after being ban- 






ELBERFELD. 


385 


Prussia, route 67. —dusseldorf to Berlin. 


ished from France, in consequence of the 
restoration of the Bourbons, and d. 1823. 
There is a Theatre here. 

For the Railway from Magdeburg to 
Berlin, see Rte. 62. 

Railroads to Berlin, to Leipsic, to 
Brunswick, to Wittenberg and Ham¬ 
burg. (Stat. N.E. side of the town, 
Fischer Ufer.) 


ROUTE 67. 

DdSSELDORF TO BERLIN, BY ELBERFELD, 
CASSEL, EISLEBEN, AND HALLE. 

83| Pruss. m.= 389^ Eng. m. 

Railway from Dusseldorf (stat. at 
end of Konigs Allee) to Dortmund, 
where it enters the Minden rail¬ 
way (Rte. 66 ). Rly. again from Nord- 
hausen to Halle. Trains in 1 hr. to El- 
berfeld, in 2 more to Dortmund. This 
railway connects the flourishing manu¬ 
facturing districts of the Wupperthal, 
and county of Mark, with the Cologne- 
Berlin line. It is interesting alike 
from the industry and picturesque 
beauty of the country it traverses, as 
well as for the engineering skill dis¬ 
played in its construction. 

Gerresheim Stat. This old town 
once contained a Nunnery for noble 
ladies. The fair Agnes of Mansfeldt 
eloped from it with Gebhart Truchsess, 
Archbishop of Cologne, in 1582. The 
Church is a fine Gothic edifice of the 
12 th cent. 

Hochdahl Stat. is 1 m. distant from 
a cavern called the Neanders Hohle, 
where human remains are said to have 
been found. 

VohwinkelJunct. Stat. Abranch rly., 
called Prince William's Railway, runs 
N. from Vohwinkel to Steele. [A few 
miles S. of this lies the town of Solin- 
gen [Inns : Baierischer Hof; Stadt Ko- 
nigsbcrg), 10,684 lnhab., famous for 

[n. g.] 


its extensive manufacture of sword- 
blades, foils, scissors, and other articles 
of cutlery and ironware.] 

Near the village of Sonnborn the 
train crosses the vale of the Wupper on 
a bridge of 6 arches, and along the 
shoulder of a hill reaches 

Elberfeld Stat. Omnibus (5 S. gr.) 
into the town. 

3^- Elberfeld. — Inns : Hasen- 
clever ;—Weiden Hof;—Post. This 
is one of the most important towns 
in the Prussian dominions, from its 
extensive manufactories. It has a 
population of 65,300 and is joined 
to another town, Barmen, with 65,000 
lnhab., forming an uninterrupted street 
6 miles long. Its situation in the 
pretty valley of the Wupper is pic¬ 
turesque, healthy, and advantageous 
to its commerce, but the town itself 
is dirty and not prepossessing. It 
owes its rise to a settlement of in¬ 
dustrious refugee Protestants, driven 
from the Netherlands 1527, who here 
found protection. It has rapidly risen 
to its actual height of prosperity with¬ 
in the present century. Its principal 
manufactures consist of cottons, silk 
ribbons, and Turkey red dyed goods, 
which are produced here of so excellent 
a colour, and so very cheap, that cotton 
yarn is actually exported to a consider¬ 
able extent from Glasgow and else¬ 
where, and is afterwards reimported 
from Elberfeld, dyed. In 1829 the 
annual produce of the manufactures 
here was valued at more than 3 millions 
sterling. Few districts in Europe 
exceed in manufacturing enterprise, 
wealth, and population, that part of the 
Rhenish provinces of Prussia which 
anciently composed the Duchy of Berg. 
It may be nearly included within a tri¬ 
angle drawn from Cologne, along the 
Rhine to the mouth of the Ruhr, and 
from these two points to Hagen. The 
valleys of the Wupper, and of the 
streams pouring into it, are scenes of 
the most active and intelligent industry, 
and their manufactures of cotton, iron, 
cutlery, and brass rival those of Eng¬ 
land, while they surpass them in cheap¬ 
ness. The prosperity of the country is 
visible at every step : coal, the source 
of all manufacturing prosperity, is found 

S 




386 


ROUTE 67. —DORTMUND. ISERLOIiN. 


in abundance; water-power is fur¬ 
nished by the numerous streams; 
steam-engines have been erected every¬ 
where, and the hills are covered with 
habitations even up to their summits. 

The Rathhaus is ornamented with 
frescoes by modern Dusseldorf artists. 

The object best worth visiting here 
is the Belvedere (Elisenhohe auf der 
Haardt), a round tower on the top of 
the hill of Hardt, surrounded by plea¬ 
sure-grounds, a charming point of 
view , overlooking the Wupperthal, ac¬ 
cessible in less than ^ an hour from the 
Hotel. 

Sclinellposts daily to Iserlohn. 

Elberfeld is united to Barmen by a 
bridge, so that they seem to form but 
one town, both animated by the same 
spirit of industry. Barmen is a long 
straggling street, with manufactories 
and human dwellings on either side. 
At every step the country displays 
signs of industrious prosperity,—indeed 
this portion of the Duchy of Berg may 
be looked on as one vast workshop. 
It is the most populous district of 
Prussia. 

The railway crosses the frontier of 
Berg and Mark, the ancient line of 
demarcation between the Franks and 
Saxons, before reaching 

Schwelm Stat. ( Inns: Rosenkranz; 
Pr. v. Preussen), an active little town 
of 3400 Inhab. After passing through 
a considerable cutting in the mountain 
the railway gains an elevated point 
(Milspe) from which you look down 
upon the broad vale of Ennepe, swarm¬ 
ing with life and industry. Villages 
occur at every few miles of road, 
chiefly busied in various manufactures 
of iron. Machetes, here called Sack- 
liauer, for cutting the sugar-cane in 
the West Indies, &c., are made here. 

Rly. descends the industrious valley 
of the Ennepe, whose small stream 
drives many forges. 

2~ Hagen Stat. ( Inns: Deutsches 
Haus; Liinenschloss), a manufacturing 
town of 11,305 Inhab., with iron, and 
Turkey-red dye-works. Near 

Witten Stat. (Glitz’s Inn) the rail¬ 
way quits the valley of the Ruhr. 

Dortmund Junction Stat., in Rte. 66. 


Sect. V. 

Here this railway enters the Cologne, 
Minden, and Berlin line. 


From Hagen runs a Railway con¬ 
necting the Ruhr valley with the Sieg 
(Rte. 47). 

Between Hagen and Unna it goes near 
to the coal-mines, the source of pro¬ 
sperity to the district. 

Limburg Stat., a small town on the 
Lenne (Inn, Bentheimer Hof, beauti¬ 
fully situated). The chateau of the 
Prince of Bentheim-Tecklenburg-Rheda 
is in a very picturesque situation. 
At the point where tjie Lenne joins 
the Ruhr, N.W. in the distance 
are seen the ruins of Ilohen-Syburg, 
the old castle of Wittekind, last Duke 
of the Saxons, who was here con¬ 
quered by Charlemagne and compul¬ 
sorily baptized. A round tower on the 
top of the hill was erected as a monu¬ 
ment to Baron L. v. Vinclce, President 
of Westphalia. After passing near the 
Grurmannshohle, at Griine, a colossal 
cross of iron is discernible, a memorial 
of the War of Liberation. The valley of 
the Lenne as far as 

Altena Stat., 6 m. from Griine, and 
the Plettenberg, is very picturesque. 

LetmatheJunct. Stat., the Dechenhdhle, 
a cavern of vast extent, abounding in 
beautiful stalactites, was discovered in 
1868. Tickets, 5 S. gr., maybe ob¬ 
tained at this stat., from which it is 
rather more than a mile distant. The 
entrance is close to the rly., and not 
far from an Inn (Griirmanns), at 
Griine. The cave has been explored 
for a distance of 4 miles, but only about 
1 m. of this is prepared for visitors, who 
are led through a suite of halls abound¬ 
ing in stalactites known by fanciful 
names — Vorhalle, Gletscher, Orgel 
Grotto, Vorhang (the curtain), Nixen, 
and Palmen Grotto. An illumination 
with many hundred candles costs 3£ 
dollars. Travellers should provide 
themselves with a supply of magnesium 
wire, whose brilliant light shows off 
the stalactites to great advantage. 
From Letmathe a branch rly. goes to 

2 i Iserlohn Stat. (Inn, Quinke’s Hotel), 
one of the most considerable manufac- 
turingtowns in Westphalia, with 13,467 
Inhab. : it may be regarded as the 





Prussia. 


387 


ROUTE 67. —ARNSBERG. WITZENHAUSEN. 


Birmingham of Prussia, where steam- 
engines, cutlery, and all sorts of brass 
ware, buttons, needles, pins, wire, &c., 
are made. The country round abounds 
in workshops, forges, paper-mills, Ac., 
and is rich in picturesque rocks, ruined 
castles of antiquity, and, romantic 
valleys and glens. 

Here the railway ceases. At Hemar, 
3 m. on the high road, the traveller, by 
turning rt. to the village Sundwich, 
may see the Sundwich Hohle , a cave 
containing fossil bones, and the Sea of 
Bocks (Felsenmeer) . We are now in 
the ancient duchy of Westphalia, the 
country of the red earth, over which, 
in former times, the jurisdiction of the 
mysterious Vehm Gericht , miscalled the 
Secret Tribunal, extended. The na¬ 
tional food of Westphalia is brown rye 
bread, commonly called pumpernickel, 
described by Voltaire as “ certaine 
pierre dure, noire, et gluante, composee, 
a ce qu’on pretend, d’une espece de 
seigleit is found on the tables of 
rich and poor, and horses are fed on a 
coarse sort of it, as well as men. 

24- Wimbern.— Inn, Schlunder’s.— 
Hence to Werl, on the high road to 
Munster and Paderborn, is only 1 Germ, 
m. The road approaches the Buhr, and 
continues along its banks for many 
miles, crossing it at Neheim. 

2 £ Amsberg. — Inns, Linhofs ; Wei- 
pert’s.—A town of 4000 Inhab., prettily 
situated on an eminence half encircled 
by the Buhr. On one of the gates are 
groups of stags and boars not ill exe¬ 
cuted. There is an extensive view 
from the ruins of the Old Castle , in the 
Court of which (Baumhof), or in a 
field on the 1. of the road to Iser- 
lohn, the judges of that which has 
been called the Secret Tribunal used to 
assemble for deliberation. The holy 
Vehm numbered in Westphalia (which 
anciently comprehended the country 
between the Bhine, Weser, and Ems) 
100,000 Wissenden or initiated. This 
ancient court of justice, now errone¬ 
ously regarded as a sort of German in¬ 
quisition, was in truth only a separate 
jurisdiction ; its meetings were held in 
public places, and in open day; and 
its proceedings were neither secret nor 
tyrannical. The words Secret Tribunal 


are in fact a mistranslation of the words 
“ Separatum judicium.” At the foot of 
the hill lies the suppressed Benedictine 
Abbey Weddinghausen. Schnellpost to 
Munster. Pretty country to 

2 £ MeschSde, a pretty town on the 
Buhr. Schaffer’s Inn. Laer is the 
domain and seat of Graf von Wcst- 
phalen. 

3 Brilon (Inn, Kriiper’s) is one of the 
oldest towns in Germany, and has 3000 
Inhab. The Great Parish Ch. was built, 
it is said, by Charlemagne, in 776 (?). 

This stage lies over a lonely heath 
(Thurlerheide), with scarcely a house 
in sight. 

2 Bredelar on the Diemel. The post- 
house was once a monastery, now turned 
into an iron-work. The tower and 
castle Marsberg, on a conical hill, was 
destroyed by the Swedes in the Thirty 
Years’ War. 

The old road goes by Arolsen (2-f), 
residence of the Prince of Waldeck. Pop. 
2000 (Inn: Bomer). In the Palace are 
a collection of antiquities from Pom¬ 
peii, and a replica of West's Death of 
General Wolf. Bauch the sculptor, and 
Kaulbach the painter, were born at 
Arolsen. The Stadt Kirche contains 
3 statutes' by Bauch. Volkmarsen, 
l£;—Westuffeln, 2 : but the new road, 
made as far as possible within the 
Prussian territory, skirts Waldeck, and 
passes through 

2J Westuffeln. The Elector of Hesse 
has a country-seat at Wilhelmsthal. 

2 ^ Cassel Stat. —In Bte. 70. By 
the Thuringian rly. to Halle, 26 Germ, 
m. in 8 hrs. 

2 Helsa. Near Almerode, the Mount 
Meissner, 2500 ft. above the sea-level, 
chiefly of columnar basalt, is seen to the 
S., and it maybe conveniently ascended 
from that place. Scenery, pretty and 
varied, to 

2£ Witzenhausen (Inns : Konig v. 
Preussen; Goldne Krone), prettily 
placed on the Werra, 2500 Inhab.; the 
last station in Hesse Cassel. There is 
an elegant Gothic chapel, with elaborate 
open-work turret, near the bridge : it 
deserves being drawn. 

“ There is a charming drive along 
the rt. bank of the Werra, both up to 
Allendorf, and down to Mfinden in 

S 2 



388 


ROUTE 67. —NORDHAUSEN. EISLEBEN. 


Sect. V. 


Hanover; through woods the greater 
part of the way. The forests in Helse 
are among the finest in Germany, owing 
to the large trees they contain, which 
are no longer found in those nearer the 
Rhine.”— F. S. 

3 Heiligenstadt (Tuns : Preussischer 
Hof; Deutsches Haus) has 4000 
Inhab.; it was formerly the capital of 
the principality of Eichsfeld, hut now 
belongs to Prussia. The Ch. of the 
Apostles has 2 octagonal towers, and in 
the churchyard is an octagonal chapel, 
intended apparently for a Baptistery. 

3 'W’iilfingcrode. A hilly stage to 

3 Nordhausen Stat. ( Inns : Romi- 
scher Kaiser; Berliner Hof; Englischer 
Hof; Deutsches Haus, outside the town, 
good), a flourishing town of 17,500 
Inhab., at the S. extremity of the Harz 
mountains, in a country very fertile in 
corn. It has the most extensive dis¬ 
tilleries in Germany. In the Ch. of 
St. Blazius are two paintings by Luke 
Cranach; an Ecce Homo, and the bu¬ 
rial of the young man of Nain, painted 
to adorn the tomb of a friend of the 
painter, who has introduced among the 
mourners portraits of Luther and Me- 
lancthon. Near the Rathhaus is a Ro- 
landsdule under a roof. (See Bremen.) 
Wolf the philosopher was born here. 
The walks and gardens on the upper side 
of the town are beautiful. There are many 
interesting points in the neighbourhood, 
such as the castles of Hohenstein and 
Ebersburg. The road from hence to 
Magdeburg and the Harz is described 
in Rte. 74. 

Near Nordhausen begins the fertile 
valley called Goldene Aue , watered by 
the winding Helme. It extends to 
Rossleben and Sangerhausen, near 
which it falls into the Unstrut. 

[11 m. S. of Nordhausen lies Son- 
dershausen (Inn, Tanne), capital of the 
small principality of Schwarzburg-S. 
In the palace is a small collection of an¬ 
tiquities, among them a bronze image, 
said to be an idol of the Sorbic-Wends 
called Pusterich, very old.] 

Railway to Halle —3 trains daily, in 
3^ hrs. 

Rossla Stat., on the Helme, 1200 
Inhab. {Inn, Sonne). Count Stolberg 
has a chateau here. Rt. of the road 


rises the hill called Kyffhduser (1353 ft. 
high): on it are the remains of an im¬ 
perial castle, built by the Emperor Bar- 
barossa, whose spirit is fabled still to 
haunt its chambers, and some among 
the peasants and miners affirm they 
have seen him with his head resting on 
his arm, and his red beard growing 
through the stone table at which he 
sits ! 

2\ Sangerhausen Stat.— Inn , Lowe. 
In the Ch. of St. Ulrich (date 1079) is 
the tomb of Louis the Leaper, who 
vowed to build a church to St. Ulrich, 
provided he succeeded in jumping safely 
out of the window of his prison near 
Halle : from this circumstance he ob¬ 
tained a nickname, and the saint a 
church. Near the town are mines of 
brown coal and copper. 

Riestedt Stat. 

2 f EislebenStat. {Inn, Goldenes Schiff). 
A town of 11,846 Inhab. on the Bose, a 
small stream. It is only remarkable as 
the native place of Luther. The house in 
which he was born, Nov. 10 or 22,1483, 
is not far from the gate leading to Halle, 
a few doors from the Post-office; his 
portrait is placed over the entrance. 
The original building was partly con¬ 
sumed by fire in 1689, but there is still 
enough of it left to give interest to it. 
The font in which he was baptized 
remains in the Petri-Paul-kirche. In 
St. Andrew's ch. is the pulpit from which 
he preached, and other relics of the 
great reformer, and some tombs of the 
Counts of Mansfeld ; a fine brass monu¬ 
ment, and 4 brass chandeliers, produce 
of the mines. The Rathhaus was ori¬ 
ginally roofed with copper. A pulpit 
cloth, worked by a Countess of Mans- 
fcld, is a remarkable piece of em¬ 
broidery. Luther was the son of a 
poor miner here, and the greater part 
of the inhab. still follow the same occu¬ 
pation, working in the neighbouring 
copper-mines. The ground around 
Eisleben is turned up in stony hillocks 
and mounds, the miners’ refuse, so as 
to look like a great graveyard. 

[8 m. from Eisleben is the small town 
of Mansfeld {Inn : Stadt Keller), where 
Luther spent his childhood, from the 
end of the 1st to the 15th year at the 
parish school. On a neighbouring hill 



Prussia. 


ROUTE 68.—COLOGNE TO CASSEL. 


389 


is the chief castle of the Counts of 
Mansfeld. It is well preserved, and 
retains its old tilt-yard, chapel, &c.] 
The rly. to Halle traverses an open 
country bare of wood, passing 2 small 
lakes ; the one on the rt. is salt, the 
other fresh. 

Ober-Roblingen Stat. 

Teutschenthal Stat. 

2 Halle Station. See Rte. 64. 
Railway hence to Berlin. 


ROUTE 68. 

COLOGNE TO CASSEL AND BRUNSWICK, BY 

SOEST AND PADERBORN—RAILWAY. 

Railway trains in 65 hrs. to Cassel. 

See Rte. 66 for the railway from 
Cologne to 

Hamm Junct. Stat. The Westphalian 
Eisenbahn diverges from this point to 

2 Werl. (Inn very bad.) Here are 
salt-works, and a miraculous image of 
the Virgin, to which many thousand 
pilgrims repair annually. 

2 ^ Soest Stat. ( Inns: Bei Overweg, 
comfortable and clean). A singular, 
antiquated, shrunken, walled town, a 
sort of northern Nuremberg, with 
11,500 Inhab.; once a free Imperial 
city, now reckoned the cheapest place 
in Germany. It contains 10 or 12 very 
curious churches, some in utter decay. 
A walk round the walls will repay. 

The *Dom (St. Patroclus), an unal¬ 
tered Romanesque edifice, of which the 
choir, transepts, and nave date from 
the 11 th cent.: the porch and W. end 
of nave belong to the end of the 12 th. 
The W. front is very imposing. A 
massive tower (a.d. 1200), 244 ft. high, 
rises above the porch, or open arcade, 
running along the ground-floor. One 
story of it was the town armoury, and 
still contains heaps of cross-bows and 
bolts. Tho interior of the church 
shows remains of early fresco. 

The * Wiesen-Kirche (1330-43) is a 
bold and elegant specimen of pure Point¬ 
ed Gothic, with 2 unfinished W. towers 
(1429) and 3 rich portals (restored 


1850). The choir, 76 ft. high, with 
very tall windows nearly full of rich 
painted glass (14th cent.), and supported 
by slender reeded piers, is extremely 
striking. The nave, later in date, has 
fine glass of 15th century. Obs. a noble 
Gothic Tabernacle (15th cent.), and 2 
smaller; a stone altar, with carved 
stone candelabra; 2 richly carved 

altarpieces (triptychs) of wood, the 
Joys and Sorrows of the Virgin (1437). 
St. Peter’s Ch., near the Dom, is 
Romanesque in nave; choir Pointed, 
ending (like the Wiesen-Kirche) in an 
apse of 7 sides of a decagon; peculiar 
construction (date end of 13th cent.). 
Obs. a fine altarpiece of the Crucifixion 
carved in wood, very fine, with wings 
gilt and painted. 

The Thomas Kirche (with apse good, 

1 in style of 13th cent.), and&ia. Maria zur 
Hohe, are of the transition period and 
■ good in style: the last the least altered, 
j St. Paid’s and Grauekloster are of tho 
14th century. Nicholai Kirche is a small 
Romanesque building, divided through 
the centre by piers and arches, the walls 
covered with coeval paintings. They all 
deserve much attention from the architect 
I and the antiquary. See the Osthoven 
I Thor , a fine example of old fortification. 

During the middle ages Soest was a 
most flourishing and populous town, 
lying on the great commercial high 
road from Bruges and Antwerp, across 
Germany, by Cologne to Brunswick 
and the Baltic. In the 15th cent, it 
withstood a memorable siege from 
Dietrich Archbishop of Cologne, an 
ambitious prelate, who sought to sub¬ 
ject Westphalia to his rule. In spite, 
however, of the long train of princes 
and nobles whom he gained over to 
his cause, and in spite of his army of 
60,000 men, including a horde of 20,000 
Bohemian mercenaries, the Bishop was 
( compelled to raise the siege and retire 
from the walls, so bravely were they 
! defended by the citizens, who served 
the artillery, and by their wives, who 
wielded pots of boiling pitch. 

Sir Peter Lely was a native of Soest. 
About a mile off, on the 1. of the road, 
are the salt-works and baths of Sas- 
sendorf. 

Lippstadt Stat., on the Lippe (Kop- 









390 


ROUTE 68.—PADERBORN. 


Sect. V. 


pelmans Inn). St. Mary's is a fine Ch . 
with a massive W. tower (striped stone¬ 
work, like Earl’s Barton), and 2 towers 
attached to the transepts; the body 
Bomanesqne, 1189 ; the choir, of late 
Pointed Gothic (1478-1500), is the 
best part. Of the same age and equal 
beauty is a pyramidal tabernacle of 
Gothic work, with bas-reliefs in stone. 
There are 3 other churches. 

If Gesecke Stat.— Inn , Post. 

1 Salzkotten Stat. (Preussens Inn), a 
town of 1500 Inhab., with considerable 
salt-works. 

1^ Paderborn Stat. (Inns: Loffel- 
mans; Bomischer Hof, dirty; Schwan; 
none good). A very ancient and 
gloomy town of 12,900 Inhab., for¬ 
merly capital of an ecclesiastical prin¬ 
cipality, and seat of a University, the 
oldest bishop’s see in Westphalia, 
founded by Charlemagne, full of pic¬ 
turesque old houses. 

The Cathedral is a large and singular, 
rather than handsome, edifice. At the W. 
end rises a tall plain and massive tower, 
destitute of portal or door, but pierced 
with a wheel window, surmounted by 
G rows of small windows. The date 
early in the 11th cent. The crypt also 
belongs to this period; the • style of 
bothisBomanesque. The body of thech., 
erected 1143, but having Gothic windows 
of late insertion, is 345 ft. long and 66 
ft. high. Ohs. the 2 richly sculptured 
portals on the N. and S. side (Paradies). 

Within are 3 engraved brasses of 
Bishops Bernard V., 1341; H. v. Spiegel, 
1380 ; and Bupert v. Berg, 1391. In the 
N. transept is the old high-altar , en¬ 
riched with good sculpture of 14th cent. 
There are numerous episcopal monu¬ 
ments of later date. The silver shrine 
of St. Liborius, at the high altar, was 
made 1627, the original one having 
been stolen by Duke Christian of 
Brunswick, and coined into dollars. 

Not far from the Dom, to the N., 
stands St. Bartholomew's chapel, a much 
older and pure Bomanesque building of 
Bp. Meinwerk, erected by Greek work¬ 
men, 1020. 

Below the Dom rises the stream of 
the Pader, out of 5 sources, in suffi¬ 
cient copiousness to be able to turn 
a mill at the distance of a few yards. 


The ground on which the town stands 
teems with springs of water, bursting 
forth in the very streets; it is said 
there are not less than 300 in and 
about it, some of them warm. 

The Rathliaus is a very picturesque 
building, a mixture of styles, 1615. 
The University is now replaced by a 
Catholic Seminary. There is a fine 
walk round the town. 

N. and E. of Paderborn stretches the 
Teutoburger Wald ,—the Saltus Teuto- 
bergicus of the Bomans,—covered with 
oaks and beech. This high land is 
supposed to be the scene of the defeat 
of the legions of Yarus by the German 
chief Arminius (Her-mann, the leader 
of the army). Allowing the Bomans 
to advance across the plains of West- 
phalia, he awaited them in the first 
difficult country, on the skirts of the 
Great Ilercynian Forest, a strong po¬ 
sition, covering the district up to the 
Weser, where, Boman discipline being 
of no avail, the invaders suffered one of 
the most serious defeats recorded in 
their annals, which arrested for ever 
their progress in this dii’ection. The 
battle-field is supposed to lie between 
Driburg and Bielefeld (Bte. 66). Many 
of the present names of hills, forests, 
streams, and villages in this district cor¬ 
respond with those mentioned by Ta¬ 
citus, near the scene of the battle. 

On quitting Paderborn, the rly. 
crosses the viaduct of the Dune, 13 
arches, 85 ft. high, and that over the 
Beke, of 24 arches, 110 ft. high. 

Altcnbcken Janet. Stat. 

Buko Stat. N.B.—A Loop Railway 
from Buke direct, by Holzminden Stat. 
(Bte. 71). to Kreiensen, saves more 
than an hour in the journey from the 
Bhine to Berlin. [About 3 m. from 
Buke, and 12 m. from Paderborn, is 
Driburg (Inns: Kothe, in the town ; 
better at the Wells), a town of 2000 
Inhab. A little to the E. of it, on the 
road to Iloxter, beneath the old castle 
of Yburg, lie the Baths, supplied by a 
chalybeate spring, one of thes strongest 
known. It consists of 4 large lodging- 
houses, with Baths, and a Kur-saal 
accommodating 200 visitors, chiefly 
ladies. The sulphur mud-baths are 
efficacious in complaints of the joints.] 



Prussia. route 69 .— dusseldorf to munster. 


The railway penetrates into the pic¬ 
turesque highlands of Westphalia, fol¬ 
lowing first the valley of the Alme, 
next the winding com’se of the Sauer, 
by Ettcln, Atteln, and Ebbinghausen. 

The line is carried along a steep 
slope overlooking the valley, constantly 
rising until it pierces through the 
Egge-gebirge chain in a cutting 80 ft. 
deep, 600 ft. above Paderborn. This 
is the summit-level. 

Warburg Stat. (Bracht’s Inn) . An 
old and decayed town, in a picturesque 
site on the Diemel. The 3 churches 
deserve notice, and the castle has a 
double chapel, 13th cent. 1. a conical 
hill is surmounted by the ruins of 
Castle Desenberg , the property of the 
Spiegel family. 

The river Diemel is crossed, and at 

Hiimme Junction Stat., on the frontier 
of Electoral Hesse, our railway reaches 
the line from Cassel to Karlshafen 
(Rte. 71). 

3 Hofgeismar Stat., a town of 3200 
Inhab., having warm chalybeate springs, 
not much frequented. The Bath-houses 
lie in a valley about 1^ mile off. There 
are pleasant walks in the neighbour¬ 
hood, and at a short distance a chateau 
of the former Electors, called Schbn- 
berg. Handsome barracks have been 
built here. It was at Geismar that 
St. Boniface boldly hewed down the 
oak sacred to the Thunderer, in the 
sight of thousands of shuddering 
Pagans, who on its fall hastened to be¬ 
come Christians. 

Grebenstein Stat. A town with old 
watch-towers and ruined castle. 

Monchshof Stat. 

Cassel Junct. Station. Rte. 70. 

The Rly. from Cassel to Brunswick 
follows the Hanover line (Rte. 72) as 
far as 

Kreiensen Junct. Stat. ; then turns 1. by 

Gandersheim Stqt. 

If Seesen Stat.—Steigerthal’s Inn is 
the best. The town has 2000 Inhab. 

1 Lutter Stat., where Tilly gained a 
victory over the Protestants under Chris¬ 
tian IV. of Denmark, so decisive that he 
received for it the thanks of the Holy 
See. Lutter, Salzgitter Stat., and 
Bcinum lie within the Hanoverian 
territory. 


391 

Borsum Junct. Stat. Here the 
Harzbahn falls in. 

Wolfenbtittel Junct. Stat. 
Brunswick. See Rte. 66. 


ROUTE 69. 

DUSSELDORF TO MUNSTER AND TO 
OSNABRuCK (RAILWAY). 

For the Railway as far as Hamm 
Stat. (20 Germ, m,), see Rte. 66. 

At Hamm a branch line turns off to 
Munster. Trains in 1 hr., 4^ Germ. m. 

Stats, at Drensteinfurth and Runker- 
ode. 

The many towers of Munster have an 
imposing appearance at a distance. 

Munster Stat. ( Inns: Kbnig von 
England, in the market-place ; Rhein- 
ischer Hof), the capital of the 
province of Westphalia, has 27,800 
Inhab., and is a place of considerable 
trade and commerce. It was formerly 
ruled by archbishops, who were princes 
independent of the Empire ; it is now a 
Catholic bishop’s see. It is one of the 
best-preserved old towns in Germany, 
though it has not the high antiquity or 
fine situation of those on the Rhine and 
Danube. Along the ground floor of the 
houses of the main street (Principal 
Markt, chiefly of 15th and 16th cents., 
rim pointed arcades, reminding the tra¬ 
veller of Padua and Bologna. At 
one end rises the ch. of St. Lambert, at 
the other stands the Rathhaus. There 
are some fine mansions of the West¬ 
phalia noblesse, e.g., the Erbdrosten 
Hof, the Romberger Hof, dating from 
the 18th cent. The Gothic buildings 
are remarkable for their good taste 
and picturesque beauty, and, spite 
of the disorders of which Munster 
has been the scene, for their good 
preservation. The most remarkable 
are, the * Cathedral, of mixed Ro¬ 
manesque and Gothic architecture 
I (date 1225-61), surmounted by 2 



392 


Sect. V. 


route 69 . 

pyramidal spires, with 2 transepts 
and very low side aisles. The parts 
of it most worth notice are, the 
S. Transept (outside), and the S. 
porch, within the Narthex, or Para¬ 
dise as it is called, with Byzantine 
pillars and sculptures. Inside, the 
Roodloft, here called “ Apostelgang,” and 
its staircases of stone, 16th cent.; the 
Sacrament’s house, the brass font , and 
stained glass. The body of the church 
was gutted by the Anabaptists. The 
choir is the handsomest portion. Observe 
a Last Judgment, a huge sculpture in 
stone, 1692, in the S. transept; a Pieta, 
of marble, under the organ, by Ach- 
terman, a living sculptor, a native of 
Munster. Behind the choir is the tomb 
of Bishop Galen , who, notwithstanding 
his ecclesiastical title and profession, 
spent a life of perpetual warfare, main¬ 
taining an army of 42,000 foot, 18,000 
horse, and 200 cannoneers. • He is ap¬ 
propriately styled in his epitaph “Hos- 
tium terror,” but he was equally dreaded 
by his friends, for, being offended 
soon after his accession by the con¬ 
duct of the townsfolk, he mercilessly 
bombarded the town until he was ap¬ 
peased by promises of submission. In 
order, however, to make sure of obedi¬ 
ence, he erected the very strong Citadel. 
The English government considered 
him a person of so much importance 
that they sent Sir ¥m, Temple, in 
1664, to negotiate an alliance with him ; 
but the Bishop had previously sold him¬ 
self to the Dutch. 

The restoration of St. Maurice’s Ch. 
has been one of the most costly and 
beautiful attempted in Germany. 

The * Ueberwasser Kirche (date 1340), 
especially its massive square tower, is 
a fine specimen of Gothic art, which 
seems to have flourished in its best 
state in Westphalia during the 14th 
and 15th cent. The spire was de¬ 
stroyed by the Anabaptists, 1533-35, 
on the principle that “ high things 
shall be laid low.” 

The Ludgeri Kirche is a Romanesque 
ch., b., 1173, of Nienberg sandstone. 
The nave and lower part of handsome 
tower are of that date. The choir, 
very rich Gothic, 1383. Obs. the double 
stalls and 2 tabernacles of stone—early 


—MUNSTER. 

16th cent. work. The airy choir and 
the graceful octagonal lantern of the 
tower are in the pure Pointed style, 
15th cent. This ch. was restored and 
decorated with paintings, carvings, and 
stained glass, 1860-68. 

At the end of the Principal Markt 
is *St. Lambert's Ch ., in the best 
Gothic style of the 14th cent. One 
of the windows, S. side, is filled 
with a tree of Jesse x carved in stone; 
very elegant. From its leaning 
tower still hang the iron cages in 
which the bodies of John of Leyden, 
the Tailor King, Knipperdolling, and 
Krechting, his two ministers and col¬ 
leagues—the leaders of the Anabaptists 
—were suspended, after they had been 
cruelly tortured for the space of an 
hour with red-hot pincers, previous to 
their execution in the Great Square. 
These fanatics, after expelling from the 
town, in 1534, all the respectable and 
rational inhabitants, and filling it with 
ignorant peasants and enthusiasts, who 
flocked hither from Holland, Friesland, 
and Westphalia, proclaimed Munster 
to be the New Jerusalem mentioned in 
the prophecies. They appointed them¬ 
selves its sovereigns, and maintained 
possession of it for many months, esta¬ 
blishing a community of goods and 
of women, attacking all constituted 
authorities, as the only means of rooting 
out evil from the earth (!), while they 
committed the most horrid atrocities, 
substituting polygamy for marriage, and 
the like. 

The house of John of Leyden, orna¬ 
mented with curious carvings, behind 
the Post-office (Dom Curie), is a beau¬ 
tiful specimen of Gothic. 

The *Pathhaus is a singular and beau¬ 
tiful specimen of Gothic, 14th and 15th 
cent.; its front rises in an elegant 
gable, partly open work, 104 ft. Under 
a colonnade below are exposed the tongs 
and pincers with which the Anabaptists 
were tortured previous to their exe¬ 
cution. In the Friedenssaal , unaltered 
since 1575, when it was fitted up, and 
well worth seeing, the Peace of West¬ 
phalia , which ended the Thirty Years’ 
War, was signed May, 1648. It con¬ 
tains paintings of the ambassadors and 
sovereigns who took part in the Con- 




Prussia. 


393 


ROUTE 69. 

gress, some of them by Terburg. Here 
also are shown John of Leyden’s hand, 
cut off before his execution, shrivelled 
and dried, his carved bedstead, &c. A 
grand Gothic Hall was added from 
Salzenberg’s design, 1860, when the 
Rathhaus was restored. 

The Schloss, formerly Palace of the 
Bishop, now the residence of the com¬ 
mandant, is handsome, and has a fine 
staircase, but is fast falling to decay. 
Behind it there are pretty gardens, oc¬ 
cupying the site of the old citadel. 
The fortifications, now levelled and 
planted, form agreeable walks round 
the town. 

On the Dom Platz, near the Bishop’s 
residence, is a Museum of Church 
antiquities, and not far off the St'ande- 
haus—House of Assembly of the Estates 
of Westphalia. 

The church of St. Ignatius , built 
by the Jesuits, 1858, contains painted 
glass by Didron, &c., and carved work; 
St. Aegidius (Giles), a 17th cent, 
ch., has been painted in fresco by 
Steinle, Settigast, and Mosler; St. 
Martin's, Romanesque, of 12th cent., 
was restored 1859, in good taste. 

The Catholic University , which for¬ 
merly flourished here, is supplanted by 
that of Bonn, and reduced to a College 
of the theological and philosophical fa¬ 
culties. The building, originally a con¬ 
vent, contains a small collection of na¬ 
tural history. 

The Provincial Museum and Kunst 
Verein , in the Stadtkeller, corner of 
Clemens-str., possess ancient paintings 
of the Westphalian school. 

There is a considerable trade in West¬ 
phalian hams here. 

Munster is connected with the river 
Ems by a navigable Canal. 

Railway to Leer and Emden (Rte. 8); 
to Osnabruck 

Schnellpost daily to Wesel. 

The Railway to Osnabriick passes 
over a flat of cultivated and heath 
land by stats. Greven, Mesum, and 
makes an acute bend near 

Rheine Junct. Stat. ( Inns: Bahnhofs 
Rest 11 - ; Hotel Schulze), a flourishing 
Prussian town, on the Ems, with a 
handsome Gothic ch. and tower ; many 
new buildings. Rail to Emden (Rte. 8). 


-OSNABRUCK. 

The shortest way to London is via 
Salzbergen, Zutphcn, Utrecht, and 
Rotterdam. (Rte. 10.) 

Here carriages arc changed. The 
Hanoverian Railway turns E. through 
Horstel, Ibbenbuhren (a mining dis¬ 
trict), and Yclpe stats. Enter Hanover. 
The secularized nunnery of Gertruden- 
berg, now a military hospital, is seen 1. 
before entering the 

Osnabruck Stat. (Inns: Schaumberg’s, 
near the stat. ; Dutting’s Hotel), 
capital of a Hanoverian province (or 
Landrostei) of the same name, has 
19,580 Inhab. (A Catholics); since 1858 
a Roman Catholic Bishop’s See, pre¬ 
viously Protestant. Formerly the go¬ 
vernor, nominated by the King of 
Hanover, bore the title of Bishop, with¬ 
out sharing the ecclesiastical dignity: 
thus the late Duke of York was made 
Bishop of Osnabruck while an infant. 

The Cathedral , a fine Romanesque 
edifice, chiefly of the 12th cent.; 2 
square AY. towers, and an octagonal 
tower at the crossing; square E. end, 
and chapel, with triple windows ; side 
screens to choir; sacristy 1150-1200; 
cloisters. In the Treasury are preserved 
an ivory comb of Charlemagne, richly 
carved. Five Shrines of Gothic work, 
which contained the relics of SS. Crispin 
and Crispian, 12th cent.; St. Regina, 
13th cent.; St. Cordula, &c.; a gold 
crucifix, set with antique gems ; others 
of silver. A cylindrical Font of bronze, 
with reliefs and inscriptions of 12th cent. 
In front (N.) of the cath., a statue of 
Justus Moser (d. 1794), “ The Frank¬ 
lin of Westphalia.” 

The Marien-kirche (Protestant), evi~ 
dently copied from the Dom, but a cent, 
later, square E. end; old altar now at the 
end of N. aisle; a Gothic Tabernacle, 
rich in sculpture and tracery; fine old 
silver crosses in the sacristy. 

The Rathhaus , a castellated building, 
15th cent., in which the negotiations 
for the peace of AYestphalia were 
partly earned on, contains a collection 
of portraits of the princes and ambassa¬ 
dors engaged in the congress, old plate, 
some of fine models. Fine freestone 
for building is obtained here. 

The rly. is continued to Hanover by 

Melle Stat. 2 m. N. lies the Clia- 

s 3 




394 


ROUTE 69 A.—PADERBORN TO HANOVER. 


Sect, V. 


teau of Dietrichsburg, belonging to the 
Count Schulenburg-Wolfsburg. 
Bracbmublen Stat. 

Lohne Junct. Stat., on the Cologne- 
Minden line to Hanover (Bte. 66) and 
Berlin. 


KOUTE 69 a. 

I’ADERBORN TO HANOVER, BY THE GRO- 
TENBERG, EXTERSTEINE, DETMOLD, 
PYRMONT. 

16 j Germ. m. — 78f Eng. m. 
Paderborn. (See Bte. 68.) 

[About 5 m. from Paderborn is the 
watering - place of Lippspringe (Inns : 
Post; Concordia), at the source of the 
Lippe, whence its name. Its mineral 
waters, sulphureous, with much car¬ 
bonic acid gas, are used for inhaling 
by consumptive patients.] 

The principal posting-road, and the 
shortest, from Paderborn to Hanover, is 
an interesting and very good road, 
which leads from Paderborn to Pyrmont 
by Horn and Meinberg, crossing the 
range of the Teutoberger Wald, and 
passing on the 1. the Teut bill, on 
which stands the colossal Hermanns 
Denkmal (see below), whence most ex¬ 
tensive views open out over Westphalia 
and the principality of Detmold. It 
then, descending a long and steep bill 
covered with wood, and threading a 
gorge, passes through the Extersteine, a 
cluster of 5 bold but grotesque rocks of 
sandstone, rising out of the woods, pic¬ 
turesquely situated by the side of a 
sheet of water, with trees growing from 
many parts of them. One of these 
rocks, excavated into a hermitage, is 
the work of Benedictine monks of the 
Convent of Abdinghof, to whom it 
belonged in the beginning of the 
12th cent.; other rock-hewn chambers 
seem to have been chapels. On the 
face of the cliff has been carved a 
rude bas-relief of the Crucifixion, dating 
probably from the 12th cent. These 


rocks have been rendered accessible 
by steps with railings, and a bridge 
thrown across one of the chasms, so 
that you may ascend to all the sum¬ 
mits and enjoy an extensive view. 
The loftiest mass is 125 ft high. 
The grounds about are laid out in gar¬ 
dens. This is a favourite rendezvous 
for picnic parties from Pyrmont, Det¬ 
mold, and Meinberg. Close at hand 
is an inn. 

2 m. farther lies Horn (Inn, Wit- 
tenstein), where horses are changed 
during the winter, hut at other sea¬ 
sons at 

4 Meinberg. Inns: Zur Bose (Post), 
and zum Stern. This is a small hut 
very pretty watering-place, with sul¬ 
phur and other baths, besides gas-ex¬ 
halations, which are used in cases of 
weak eyes. The gardens are extensive 
and neatly laid out. 

The Grotenherg may he ascended 
from Meinberg by taking a light car¬ 
riage with 2 horses from thence. The 
road thither lies through Detmold, 
and the ascent from Meinberg- occupies 
2f hrs. and the return If hr.: the hire 
of a carriage will he about 6 thalers. 
It is about 3 m. to the top of the hill 
from Detmold. It is not very steep, 
and is in tolerable order. 

On the Grotenherg (Teut), the highest 
summit of the Teutoberger Wald, 1200 
ft. above the sea level, a monument to 
the old German hero Hermann, or Ar- 
minius, Chief of the Cherusci, w ho de¬ 
feated the Boman legions under Varus, 
has been begun. It was intended to be 
a colossal statue of hammered copper, 
45 ft. high and 80 ft. to the point of the 
sword. The pedestal, alone finished, is 
a circular Gothic temple of sandstone 
90 ft. high. The statue was made at 
the copper-works in Lemgo, and lies in 
disjointed portions in a shed at Det¬ 
mold. Prom want of funds the works 
have been suspended for many years* 
and are not likely to be resumed. The 
projector and architect is Mr. Bandel. 
The hill overlooks the spot where the 
battle is supposed to have been fought. 
The view from it is truly magnificent, 
and will repay the trouble of as¬ 
cending the mountain. There is a large 
rampart of loose stones and several bar- 



Prussia. 


395 


ROUTE 70. —FRANKFURT A. M. TO CASSEL. 


rows (Hiinengraber—Huns’ graves— 
as they are called in N. Germany) near 
the spot. _ 

The schnellpost from Paderborn, in¬ 
stead of passing through the valley of the 
Extersteine, goes round by Detmold to 
Mcinberg. 

4 “ Detmold (Inn, Stadt Frankfurt, 
tolerable), 6200 Inhab., is the capital of 
the principality of Lippe Detmold. The 
Palace is a fine old castellated building, 
somewhat in the style of the castle of 
Glammis in Scotland, having a vast round 
corner tower or Donjon, with additions 
of an Elizabethan character. The best 
view of it is from the upper windows of 
the Inn , which is opposite to it. The 
prince is very rich, being the owner of 
almost all the large estates in his do¬ 
minions, and all the forests, which are 
as abundantly stocked with game as any 
in Germany. He is consequently able 
to suppoii; all the expenses of the go¬ 
vernment, so that the inhabitants are 
required to pay hardly any taxes, and 
are much envied by their neighbours, 
who are not equally exempted. The 
Palace Gardens are prettily arranged. 
The Marstall is a very fine stable, re¬ 
markably well kept, and worth the in¬ 
spection of those who take an interest 
in horses. It contains in general 60 
horses, all of the Senner race, which 
arc bred at the prince’s establishment of 
Lobshom, about 5 m. from Detmold. 
This breed of horses is peculiar. They 
are allowed to run wild in the Senner 
"Wald (from whence they take their 
name), which is of great extent, and 
possess in consequence great endurance, 
and are very hardy, but, on the other 
hand, very shy and troublesome to 
break. They are taken up on the 1st 
of November and turned out again on 
the 1st of May, without any reference 
either to their condition at the time or 
the state of the weather. The race is 
of Arabian origin, and has been occa¬ 
sionally refreshed by new Arabian 
blood. There is evidence of a stud 
having existed here since the 15th cent., 
and it is supposed to be still older. 
The establishment possesses about 120 
mares.” L. S. b. e. 

(Nearly N. of Detmold, and 1£ Germ. 


m. distant, on the road to the Herford 
Stat., on the Cologne and Minden rail¬ 
way, is the old town of Lemgo , con¬ 
taining singular specimens of Gothic 
architecture, among which are a pic¬ 
turesque Rathhaus and the fine Church 
of St. Nicholai. Lemgo is 2| Germ. m. 
from the Herford Stat., Rte. 66.) 

1 Mcinberg. 


Beyond Meinberg the road passes 
through a beautiful country to 

3 | Pyrmont. For an account of Pyr- 
mont and the rest of the road to Hano¬ 
ver, see Rtes. 66, 71. 


ROUTE 70. 

FRANKFURT A. M. TO CASSEL (RAIL). 

124T Eng. m. This interesting line 
of Railway (the Main-Weser Eisen- 
bahn) was opened Aug. 1851 and 1854. 
Trains in.8hrs,, express in Ter¬ 
minus close to the Taunus Bahnhof in 
Frankfurt. 

Bockenheim Stat., an increasing 
town; 6700 Inhab., many Jews. Old 
watch tower at limit of Frankfurt 
territory. 

Bonames Stat. To Homburg 4 m. 

Vilbel Stat. 

Niederwollstadt Stat. About 2 m. to 
the E. of this, in the valley of the Nidda, 
the Basilica Ch. of Ilbenstadt, with 
towers of the 12th cent., belonging to 
Count Leiningen, is seen. 

Friedberg Stat. ( Inns : II. Trapp ; 
H. Simon), a very quaint old town of 
Hesse Darmstadt, with 3300 Inhab., 
in the midst of the fertile Wetterau. 
The situation on a hill, and the old 
walls, with one lofty round tower, are 
very fine. It has an old castle , and 
two handsome Gothic churches; one in 
the town ruinous, the other in the castle. 
The so-called Jews’ Bath, a vault of 
Roman construction, deserves special 
notice. A railway viaduct 70 ft. high. 





396 


ROUTE 70. —NAUHEIM. MARBURG. 


Sect. V. 


Nauheim Stat. {Inns: II. de l’Europe; 
H. Henkel; Pariser Hof; Kursaal). 
A bath and watering-place of recent 
origin, much frequented from Frank¬ 
fort, whence it is only 1 hr. by rail. It 
has a beautiful Kurhaus, in a large park 
with lake. It owes its origin to its Salt- 
springs. They were so valuable even in 
the time of Napoleon that he granted 
them to Kellermann, who held them 
for 4 or 5 years. The proprietors 
had been for some time endeavouring 
to bore into a bed of natural salt which 
the geologists asserted to exist here. 
Their efforts, however, had not been 
attended with success, until one night, 
in the winter of 1855, during a slight 
shock of earthquake, a column of strong 
brine, at a temperature of 96 Fahr., 
rose from the bore-hole, and has ever 
since discharged every 24 hrs., with 
great velocity, a column of water nearly 
12 inch, in diameter. This won¬ 
derful fountain has been enclosed in a 
brick shaft; but it rises in a white jet, 
from 12 to 15 ft. above the top of this. 
The hot salt water is conducted into 
the bath-house, where also the carbonic 
acid gas which rises from these in¬ 
tensely saline springs is medically 
applied. There is a resident physician, 
Dr. Bode. Gaming tables have been set 
up here. The proprietors pay half 
the rly. fare of strangers resorting 
to them. The Johannisberg is a plea¬ 
sant walk. 

If Butzbach Stat. The German va¬ 
grants, known in London as Bava¬ 
rian broom-girls (Fliegenwedel-handler) 
come, not from Bavaria, but from 
villages in this neighbourhood, to the 
N. of Frankfurt, in Nassau and Hesse. 
Waldburg, near Butzbach, is a very 
beautiful spot. 2 ruined castles, Fetz- 
berg and Gleiberg , on separate eminences 
near 

2-^ Giessen Junction Stat. — Inns : 
Kuhne’s; Einhorn (Unicorn), a good 
and clean country inn. This, the 
chief town of the province of Upper 
Hesse, is beautifully situated on the 
Lahn; it has 10,250 Inhab. The 
University , founded in 1607 (400 
students), has an excellent library; a 
large barrack has been converted to 


the uses of learning, in addition to the 
building of the University itself. Liebig 
the chemist was long professor here. 

Railway hence, down the vale of the 
Lahn, to Wetzlar, Ems, and Coblenz, 
a very agreeable road (see.Rte. 96.) 

Railway to Cologne, down the valley 
of the Sieg (Rte. 47). 

From Giessen to Marburg the course 
of the railway is down the valley of the 
Lahn. 1. appear the ruined castles of 
Fetzberg and Gleiberg on a conical 
height. 

Fronhausen is the first station in 
Hesse Cassel. Cross the Lahn. 

1^ Marburg Stat.—Inns : Hotel 
Pfeiffer; Ritter. Marburg is an in¬ 
teresting town of 7600 Inhab., on the 
Lahn ; picturesquely situated on the 
side and slopes of a hill; 5 hrs. by 
rail from Frankfurt. Its streets, 
though narrow, some mere flights of 
steps, abound in subjects fit for an 
artist’s pencil, both in costumes and 
buildings. N.B. A few hours spent 
here in visiting ch. and castle will 
be well spent. 

The University was the first founded 
in Germany after the Reformation 
(1527); it has 40 professors, but not 
more than 200 students ; it has a good 
library. 

The ''■'Ch. of St. Elizabeth , begun 1235, 
and completed in 48 years, is a most 
elegant and interesting edifice, as a 
specimen of early purity in the Pointed 
Gothic style, and in perfect preserva¬ 
tion. It is surmounted at the W. end 
by 2 spires 303 ft. high. In many 
parts it exhibits the transition from 
the Round into the Pointed style. 
It was begun 1235, and finished 1283, 
by the Landgrave Conrad, Grand Master 
of the Teutonic Knights, as a ch. for 
his order, and to contain the richly 
ornamented Gothic Chapel of St. Eliza¬ 
beth, who died here, 1231, after making 
a vow to build a Ch., which was shortly 
after accomplished by the Knights of 
the Teutonic order. She was daughter 
of Andrew, King of Hungary, a Land¬ 
gravine of Hesse, and was canonised for 
the sanctity of her life in 1235. The 
chapel is in one arm of the transept. 
The stone steps around it are worn 
hollow by the knees of pilgrims, who 



Prussia. 


koute 70.- 

resorted to it for 300 years, until Philip 
of Hesse, the Reformer, put a stop to 
the practice, 1539. Within is a carved 
tablet, representing the saint lying on 
her coffin surrounded by cripples and 
sick persons, the objects of her bounty : 
her soul is seen hovering abovS her 
head, on its way to heaven, whence 
Christ extends to her his hand. The 
Shrine which contained her body is now 
placed in the sacristy; it is of oak 
covered with plates of copper gilt, and 
ornamented with bas-reliefs of solid 
silver gilt, a fine work of 13th century 
art. It is richly inlaid with pearls, 
antique cameos, and costly gems, but 
80 of these were stolen in 1810, when 
the shrine was removed by the French 
to Cassel. In the opposite transept are 
the monuments of some of the Land¬ 
graves of Hesse in stone, with the orna¬ 
mental parts of brass, in relief, and 
handsome in their way, quite different 
from English brasses. The painted 
glass in the windows of the choir is 
very beautiful. Here are the stalls of 
the Teutonic Knights, and the buildings 
behind the ch. were the Commandery 
or Convent of the Order. 

On the Schlossberg rises proudly the 
Castle of the Landgraves of Hesse , a 
structure of the chivalrous ages, now a 
Penitentiary. It commands a very fine 
prospect. It is worth seeing for its 
architecture, perfect preservation, and 
situation, particularly the Gateway, the 
Chapel, and the Knights’ Hall, a vaulted 
chamber supported by pillars, 116x49 
ft., remaining just as it was when 
Luther and Zwingli discussed in it the 
question of Transubstantiation, in the 
presence of the Landgrave (Philip the 
Magnanimous) of Hesse, 1529. Luther 
preached from the pulpit in the castle 
chapel, and the desk still shows a crack 
caused by his forcible fist. 

The Lahn is again crossed. 

2~ Kirchhain Stat. Neustadt Stat. 

Treisa Stat. Borken Stat. 

Wabern Stat. The elector has a 
countiy-seat here containing some pic¬ 
tures. [1 Germ. m. W. is Fritzlar 
(Im, H. d’Angleterre) on the. Eder, 
a decayed town, once imperial city, re¬ 
taining its old walls. The Lorn, on the 
spot where St. Boniface felled the first 


-CASSEL. 397 

oak in the forest, is Gothic, of the 12th 
cent. 

The Rathhaus is in ruins.] 

The railway crosses the Fulda by a 
viaduct of 13 arches. 

Guntershausen Junct. Stat. ( Inn: 
H. Bellevue, comfortable, clean, and 
well managed. Near this the Railway 
to Eisenach (Rte. 92) diverges from 
that to Frankfurt. Our line crosses 
the avenue to Wilhelmshohe (Stat.) be¬ 
fore reaching 

Cassel Stat. — (Tans: Konig von 
Preussen, Hotel Schirmcr (both in the 
Konigs Platz, an oval Place , remarkable 
for the echo in the centre); Hotel 
Victoria)—the capital of the old Elec¬ 
torate of Hesse Cassel, is situated on 
the Fulda, and contains 41,600 Inhab. 
It was the residence of the Elector and 
the seat of the Govei'nment until the 
campaign of 1866 converted Cassel 
virtually into a province of Prussia. 
The old town lies low down, close 
to the river banks, and consists of 
naiTow but picturesque streets, while 
the new part, built upon an ele¬ 
vation formerly occupied by a for¬ 
tress, is airy and agreeable. In the 
Friedrichs _ Platz, the largest square 
in any German town, stands the Elec¬ 
tor's Palace , a building of no very im¬ 
posing appearance, surpassed indeed by 
the hotels of several bankers in Frank¬ 
fort. Next to it is the Museum , the 
handsomest building in Cassel; beyond 
it are the government offices. One side 
of the square, on the brow of the hill, 
is very judiciously left open, to admit 
the view of the valley, the windings of 
the Fulda, and the distant Mount Meiss¬ 
ner. On this side a light gateway 
leads to the Public Garden (Augarten), 
a very handsome park, abounding in 
fine trees (observe the Weymouth 
pines), but subject to iniuidations. In 
the middle of the square is placed the 
statue of the Elector Frederick II., 
after whom it is named. To this prince 
Cassel owes its principal embellishments 
and collections of art, &c. &c. His 
wealth was acquired by trafficking in 
the lives of his subjects, whom he lent 
to the King of Great Britain to fight 
his battles in America and elsewhere ; 



398 


ROUTE 70.'—CASSEL. 

5000 Hessian troops were hired, with 
the consent of Parliament, against the 
Pretender in Scotland. More than 3 
millions sterling were paid for 12,000 
Hessians sent to America 1776-84. 

The Museum —open in summer, Mon., 
Tues., Thurs., Fri.; in winter, Tues. 
and Fri., 10 a.m. to 1; at other times 
by a fee to the inspector—includes, 1, 
A Library of 90,000 volumes, useful, hut 
not calculated to interest a passing tra¬ 
veller. 2, A Cabinet of Curiosities in art 
and nature. One room is nearly filled 
with watches and clockwork, from the 
earliest invented watches made at Nu- 
remburg, shaped like eggs, and wound 
up with a piece of catgut, instead of a 
chain, to the most perfect chronometers. 
One of the Electors was an amateur 
watch-maker, and several specimens of 
his work are here preserved. Here are 
also a great variety of agates from the 
mines near Marburg, in the Elector’s 
dominions, now abandoned; one single 
mass is formed into a staff 3 or 4 ft. 
long. Among many elaborate carvings 
in wood and ivory is one attributed to 
Albert Diirer. An enamelled dagger 
hilt is believed to be by Benvenuto 
Cellini. A sword given by Pope Inno¬ 
cent VIII. to a Landgrave of Hesse. 
Many cases are entirely filled with 
objects of art and vertu, in amber, 
ivory, precious stones, gold and silver 
plate. Antiquities. These were chiefly 
brought from Herculaneum. A little 
bronze statue of Victory, 20 in. high, 
known by casts all over Europe, is the 
gem of the collection; an exquisitely 
shaped bronze vase also merits notice. 
Many of the remains are interesting, 
from having been found in Germany or 
Hesse Cassel itself: a Roman Eagle of 
the 21st Legion, and a helmet, were 
dug Up at Wiesbaden* The coins, 
medals, and cameos are well arranged 
for general inspection, under glass cases. 
Antique Statues. A Minerva, a bas- 
relief of the Triumph of Bacchus, and 
a bronze head of Mars, are the best; 
they were purchased from the Pope for 
40,000 dollars. Among modem works 
are several busts by Canova, of Napo¬ 
leon, of his son when a child five 
years old, and of his family. The 


MUSEUM. PICTURES. Sect. V. 

Cork Models of ancient buildings are 
good. 

The Collection of Natural History is 
not very extensive or excellent. Be¬ 
sides the usual quantity of stuffed birds 
and quadrupeds, there are specimens of 
the woods of 500 different European 
trees, made up in the form of a library ; 
each specimen has the shape of a 
volume; the back is formed of the 
bark; the sides of the wood. A trunk 
of a laurel which grew in the orangery 
here, 58 ft. high and 2 ft. diameter, is 
another botanical curiosity. The Mu¬ 
seum is shown by the Director, who 
receives a fee of 2 dollars, and one 
dollar for a single person; but when 
the party is numerous 8 or 10 S. gr. 
are enough for each person. 

The * Picture Gallery , in the Belvue 
Schloss, open daily in summer 10—-12, 
and at other times on payment of a fee of 
1 thaler to the Custode, contains some 
very good pictures, very ill arranged. It 
will well repay a visit. The best pictures 
are of the Dutch school: they include 
a remarkable series of 28 fine works 
of *Rembrandt, including portraits of 
Kroll the poet; of Burgomaster Six 
(whole length) ; of the writing master 
Coppenol; of a halberdier; of Rem¬ 
brandt, his wife in red satin; of Nic. 
Bruynink, an ensign of militia; also 
Samson seized by the Philistines; 
Jacob blessing Joseph’s children; a 
small winter landscape ; a ruined castle 
on a height, bridge in the foreground, 
one of his finest landscapes, &c. &c. 
By Paul Potter , a cattle-piece, 2 cows 
and 2 sheep, with a man and Woman, 
all life-size ; Van der Lys , a company 
of soldiers and women, very large and 
forcible, There are 17 excellent por¬ 
traits by Van Dyk, e.g. Snyders, the 
Painter and his Wife, a remarkably fine 
Rubens —the Meeting of Abraham and 
Melchisedec, figures life size; Van Dyk } 
portrait of Syndic Mostraeten, and a 
family group; Mabuse , Triumph of 
Christianity; Titian , whole length of 
Don Alphonzo ; portrait of a Judge; 
Cleopatra; Sasso Ferrato , the Marquis 
del Guasto, a fine work; Holbein , him¬ 
self, his wife, and children, a family 
picture; Teniers , Peasants at a Kirmes; 



Prussia. 


399 


ROUTE 70. —CASSEL. WILHELMSHOHE. 


Silenus by Jordaens, nearly equal to 
Rubens; and a good piece by Terburg . 

In the Gothic Ch. of St. Martin, 
nave 14th cent., choir beginning of 
15th, -well restored, are several monu¬ 
ments of the Electoral family, whose 
burial-vault is beneath it. That of 
Philip the Magnanimous occupies the 
place of the high altar (d. 1567); 
that of Landgrave Moritz (1662), and 
of Landgravine Christine (1549) in 
bronze. 

A little below the Friedrichs Platz 
may be seen the foundation and first 
story of a vast Palace , called Kattenburg , 
begun 1820, by a former Elector, and 
stopped by his death 1821, now over¬ 
grown with moss and weeds. 

The Marble Bath , in the Augarten, 
is a sumptuous piece of extravagance. 
Though it really contains a bath, this 
was introduced merely as a pretext for 
spending money and employing marble, 
with which its walls are covered. It 
is stocked with statues and bas-reliefs, 
by Monnot, an artist of the last cent., 
whose works, deficient in elevation and 
purity, have been termed the “ Dutch 
School ” of sculpture. Near this build¬ 
ing is the Orangery. 

The Theatre , at the comer of the 
Friedrichs Platz, is generally open 4 
times a-week; the Opera is tolerably 
good. 

Cassel and its rulers afforded an 
asylum to the fugitive Flemish Pro¬ 
testants, driven from their country by 
the persecutions under Alva; and after¬ 
wards to the French Huguenots, exiled 
by the revocation of the Edict of Nantes. 
These colonists contributed much to the 
wealth and prosperity of the town by 
their industry, as well as to its extent. 
—One part of it is still called, after 
them, the French quarter. 

Johannes von Muller, the Swiss his¬ 
torian (died 1809), is buried in the old 
churchyard, outside the Todten Thor; 
and Spohr the composer (d. 1858), in 
the Neue Friedhof. 

Railways —to Frankfurt; to Eisenach 
and Gotha; to Karlshafen, Paderbom, 
and Koln; to Meiningen and Coburg 
(Thuringian line); to Brunswick, Got¬ 
tingen, and Hanover (Rte. 70); to 
Dusseldorf. 


No one should quit Cassel without 
visiting the famous Gardens of Wil¬ 
helmshohe, the German Versailles. 
The Elector’s summer palace, within 
them, is only 3 m. from Cassel, but 
they extend behind it to the top of a 
high hill, which is a good hour’s walk 
in addition. Wednesday and Sunday 
are the best days for going thither, as 
the waterworks then play, generally at 
half-past 2 in the afternoon. They 
cease after the end of Sept. A day 
may be agreeably spent here in explor¬ 
ing the fine views and natural beauties 
of the spot, setting aside its artificial 
marvels ; and there is a very good Inn 
close to the palace to accommodate 
visitors. Near the Inn is the New 
Waterfall 130 feet high. 

A straight avenue of limes leads from 
the Wilhelmshohe-Gate of Cassel, where 
carriages stand for hire to convey pas¬ 
sengers. (rt.) On quitting the town is 
a huge edifice built by Jerome Buona¬ 
parte, while King of Westphalia, as a 
barrack, now turned into a manufactory 
and poor-house. The vista is termi¬ 
nated by the figure of the Colossal Her¬ 
cules on the top of the hill behind 
Wilhelmshohe. 

The Palace lies at the foot of the hill; 
at the side of it stands the Theatre, built 
by King Jerome Buonaparte, in which 
he used himself to act; it is now turned 
into a ball-room. Behind it is the Foun - 
tain , the highest in Europe, except that 
at Chatsworth, which throws up a jet 
of water, 12 inches in diameter, 190 ft. 
It is supplied from reservoirs 300 ft. 
higher up the hill. At the back of the 
pond out of which it rises, is an arti¬ 
ficial waterfall descending from a tall 
aqueduct. Both it and the Fountain 
remain inactive and empty, except on 
Sundays and Wednesdays. Their per¬ 
formances do not continue more than 
50 minutes. 

The more ancient Cascade of the 
Karlsburg consists of a flight of stone 
steps, 900 ft. long, leading up to the 
colossal statue; over which a stream 
of water is at times admitted to fall. A 
carriage road conducts by the side of 
this gigantic staircase, in zigzags, to 
the very top of the hill. Upon a sort 
of landing-place or platform, half-way 




400 


EOUTE 71. —HANOVERIAN MUNDEN TO BREMEN. 


Sect. V. 


up the stairs, is a rude representation 
of the Giant Enceladus, lying on his 
hack, -with a mountain of rocks heaped 
on his breast; it was the intention of 
the artist who formed him that he 
should spout from his mouth a jet of 
water 50 feet high ; this is now dried- 
up. The staircase of this chateau d’eau 
(imitated, it is said, from that in the 
villa d’Este) is surmounted by an oc¬ 
tagon building 1312 ft. above the Fulda, 
surmounted by a pyramid, serving as a 
edestal to the Colossal Hercules, 31 ft. 
igh, of beaten copper. It is possible 
to mount up into the figure ; 8 persons 
can stand at one time in the hollow of 
the club, and, out of a little window 
formed in it, enjoy a prospect extending 
nearly as far as the Brocken. Bnt the 
delightful view can he obtaiued <rom 
the top of the hill without so much 
trouble. The aquatic staircase, and the 
octagon Temple of the Winds, as it is 
called, on its summit, with the statue, 
and other extravagances connected with 
it, are reported to have employed 2000 
men for 14 years. When their labours 
were completed the cost was found to 
he so enormous that the accounts were 
burnt, to destroy all records of it. 

In descending, a visit may he paid 
to the Lowenburg , a toy castle, built to 
imitate a stronghold of the middle ages, 
with drawbridges, battlements, towers, 
and ditches. Among the rusty suits in 
the armoury is one which belonged to the 
Great Condd; there is also a very curi¬ 
ous collection of drinking - glasses, a 
series of portraits of the Tudors and 
Stuarts, and a library filled with ro¬ 
mances alone. The Elector who built 
this castle is buried in the chapel. 
Those who have no taste for the objects 
above enumerated, will at least he gra¬ 
tified with the charming and various 
prospects from the slopes of the Lowen¬ 
burg, and its agreeable gardens and 
pleasure-grounds. 


EOUTE 71. 

DESCENT OF THE WESER FROM HANO¬ 
VERIAN MUNDEN TO IIAMELN, MIN- 
DEN, AND BREMEN [PYRMONT], 

Steamers navigate the Weser be¬ 
tween Hannoverisch Munden and Min- 
den 3 times a week, descending to 
Hameln, 18 Germ, m., in 10 hrs., and 
thence to Prussian Minden (9 G. m.), 
in 6 hours. They ascend from Bremen 
in 3 days, stopping 1st night at Minden, 
2nd at Hameln. The banks of the Weser 
(Visurgis, clade Bomanorum nohilis 
amnis— Velleius ) are picturesque, with¬ 
out being grand; the scenery has been 
compared with that of the Wye, and 
abounds in finely wooded hills, often 
descending to the water’s edge. Below 
Minden the banks of the river are flat 
and uninteresting. The Weser has a 
course of 62 Germ. m. = 285 Eng. m., 
with a fall of 397 ft. to the North 
Sea. 

Hannoverisch Munden , situated at the 
junction of the Fulda and Werra, 
whence the steamer starts, is described 
Ete. 72. It is a stat. on rly. from 
Cassel to Hanover. 

rt. The wooded hills of the Bram- 
wald, or Soiling. 

1. Keinhardswald. 

1. Yeckcrhagen. 1800 Inhab. Here 
was formerly a castle of the Electors 
of Hesse, now Chemical Works : in 
the neighbourhood are iron-mines. 
The Weser makes a great bend round 
the ruins of the castle of Bramburg, rt., 
which remain long in sight. 

rt. Bursfelde. Here was a Benedic¬ 
tine abbey of the 13th cent., now an 
estate of the King of Hanover. The 
church is a well-preserved monument 
of Byzantine architecture, 
rt. Lippoldsberge, 650 Inhab., and 
rt. Bodenfelde, 2 picturesque vil¬ 
lages. The banks of the river are here 
covered with a thick forest, part of the 




Prussia. 


401 


ROUTE 71 . —HOXTER. CORVEY. 


romantic scenery of the Solnick: the 
river forces its way among high rocks. 

1. Karlshafen (inn: Schwan), 1600 
Inhab., at the junction of the Diemel 
with the Weser, in a picturesque situa¬ 
tion, with cliffs of red sandstone. A 
railway was opened 1849, between 
Cassel and this town, which it is in¬ 
tended to raise into a place of great com¬ 
merce. The large magazines were built 
by the Landgrave Charles in 1700. 
The town was founded 1699 for French 
Huguenots exiled from the valleys of 
the high Alps, who were hospitably re¬ 
ceived by him and settled here. In the 
neighbourhood, higher up the river, are 
two settlements, named by them in the 
style of the Puritans, Gottestreue, and 
Gewissenruhe (Truth of God and Pest 
of Conscience). The inhabitants still 
preserve their French features. 

Pailway to Cassel (Pte. 70), 25 Eng. 
m. Trains in If hr. 

A little below Karlshafen the Prus¬ 
sian territory begins on the 1 . bank. 

1. Herstelle, a stronghold of Charle¬ 
magne, where, in 797, during his 
campaign against the Saxons, he re¬ 
ceived the ambassadors of the Avars, 
and of Arragon and Castile. It is 
named after the cradle of his family, 
—Heristal, on the Meuse. No trace of 
the original castle remains. In its 
place a modern Gothic chateau lifts its 
roof above picturesque groups of trees. 
Below is the village of the same 
name. 

1. Beverungen, a Prussian village 
marked by an old prison tower. 

rt. Lauenforde, a Hanoverian vil¬ 
lage. 

1. Blankenau. Formerly a fortress 
of the Abbot of Corvey, built in the 
13th cent., afterwards a stronghold of 
the robber knight of Falkenberg. Now 
a Prussian public office. Opposite is 
the village of 

rt. Meinbrexen, in Brunswick. 

1. Godelheim, at the foot of the 
Brunsberg: here are mineral springs. 
Opposite is 

rt. Fiirstenberg. A castle of the 
Duke of Brunswick, upon a spur of 
the Soiling. Since 1753 it has been a 
china manufactory. 

rt. Bofzen. 


2^ Hoxter (Inns : Berliner Hof; 
Stadt Bremen). An old walled Hanse 
town, 3500 Inhab., the last in Prussian 
Westphalia, on the 1. bank of the 
Weser, here crossed by a bridge. The 
Ch. of St. Kilian is of interesting 
Romanesque architecture. Near it 
Charlemagne fought one of his hardest 
battles against the Saxons. The watch- 
tower on the Bnmsberg is said to be 
a relic of the strong Saxon fortress 
built by Bruno , brother of Wittekind. 
In 1673 Turenne fixed his head¬ 
quarters here. 

A fine avenue of chesnuts, 1 m. 
long, leads to the suppressed (1805) 
Benedictine Afibey of 

Corvey (Corveia) (no inn), one of the 
most ancient ecclesiastical establish¬ 
ments in Germany. It was founded in 
823, by Louis the Pious, and received 
from Paris, in 836, the relics of St. 
Vitus ; it became the missionary centre 
from which Christianity and civiliza¬ 
tion were spread over a large part of 
N. Germany and Scandinavia. Ansgar, 
the Apostle of the N., was a missionaiy 
from Corvey, and Pope Gregoiy V. 
was abbot here. The only existing 
MS. of the first 5 books of Tacitus was 
discovered in the convent library, 1514, 
and published 1515 by Pope Leo X. 
The Convent, a plain, square, modern 
edifice, is now a seat of the Prince 
of Hohenlohe-Schillingsfurst, Fiirst v. 
Corvey, but too vast for any private 
family of whatever rank, and void of 
interest. The only remains of the old 
Abbey are in the W. front of the 
Church , surmounted by twin spires ; 
the lower story and substruction, with 
the columns of single blocks in the 
vestibule, are attributed with some 
probability to the age of Charlemagne 
(a.d. 885); the body is of the 15th 
cent. 

Eilvcagen , Hoxter to Pyrmont, in 
4 hrs. See below. 

The Weser winds excessively near 

rt. Holzminden, a town of Bruns¬ 
wick at the N. extremity of an offset 
of the Sollinger-wald hills. It has con¬ 
siderable iron and steel works, mills for 
cutting paving-stones, an article of 
export to Bremen, and a celebrated 
school or gymnasium dedicated “ Deo 








402 


Sect. V. 


ROUTE 71. —HAMELN. PYRMONT. 


et litteris.” Near the town are the 
ruins of Eherstein , a stronghold of the 
Counts of that name (Buntrock’s Inn). 

Holzminden is a stat. on the rly. 
from Buke (lite. 68) to Kreiensen. 

1. Heinsen. Below this the "Weser 
makes a great hend to 

1. Polle: here are the ruins of a 
castle destroyed in the Thirty Years’ 
War. It had been the principal castle 
of the counts of Eherstein. 

rt. Dolme. A singular cliff goes by 
the name of the Pastor von Dolme. 
Opposite, 1., in a narrow gorge, a small 
stream descends and turns the wheel 
of the Teufelsmiihle (the Devil’s mill), 
mentioned in legends of the 13th cent. 

rt. Bodenwerder. A small Hano¬ 
verian town on an island with a boat 
bridge. The red sandstone displays 
itself in a peculiar manner on the rt. 
hank. 

1. Kemnadc, with a flying bridge. It 
was the site of a nunnery founded in 
1025. The old eh. contains the tombs 
of many noble families. 

1. Hehlen. The stately chateau, 
surmounted by 4 towers, was built in 
1560, by Count Schulenburg, in whose 
family it still remains. One of this 
family, as Field Marshal in the ser¬ 
vice of the republic of Venice, bravely 
defended Corfu in 1716 against the 
Turks. Turkish arms and horse-tail 
standards, his trophies, are still pre¬ 
served here. 

rt. Hagenossen, with a mansion, 
formerly belonging to the Counts of 
Eherstein. 

rt. Tiindern. At Hastenbeck, 2 m. 
on the height, the allies, commanded 
by the D. of Cumberland, were defeated 
by the French, July 27, 1757. The 
Convention of Kloster Seven was the 
consequence. 

1. Ohr has a modern church inscribed 
“ Der Geist ist frei, und ohne Zwang 
der Glaube.” From the top of the 
Ohrberg, above the village, there is a 
beautiful view towards the high land 
about Pyrmont. 

rt. Hameln ( Inns: Sonne; Stadt 
Bremen), a Hanoverian town of 6293 
Inhab,, in a pretty situation on the 
Weser, here crossed by an iron suspen¬ 
sion bridge, 816 ft. long, hanging from 


a pier which rises from an island in the 
middle. It is a very old place, full 
of wooden houses in the old German 
style, and has one fine Church , the 
Minster , now desecrated and falling to 
ruin. The octagonal central tower 
and crypt, the oldest parts, are of 12th 
cent. The large building near the 
river is a Penitentiary (Zuchthaus). 
The Legend of the ‘ Bats of Hameln ’ 
is well told in one of Browning’s 
poems. The hill on the opposite side 
of the river is laid out in public 
walks, and here is a grotto celebrated 
for its beer. Hameln was once a strong 
fortress, and on this hill stood a 
strong citadel, the Bastille of Han¬ 
over ; but the French blew up its 
works in 1808. Agreeable excursions 
may be made up and down the charm¬ 
ing valley of the Weser. Ohr, a coun¬ 
try-house, with pretty grounds, is 
worth a visit. 

[■Coaches daily in summer from 
Hameln to Hanover: from Hoxter to 
Pyrmont , 14 Eng. m. to the AV. 

Pyrmont. Inns: the Crown (Krone); 
Stadt Bremen;—Caffe-haus, in which 
are inferior Gambling-Tables. The 
principal gaming-tables are in the 
Concert Saal. There is a daily table- 
d’hote during the season in the above- 
mentioned inns. 

Pyrmont, situated at the foot of a 
range of wooded hills, is one of the 
oldest watering-places in Europe; it 
was frequented by Charlemagne. Its 
mineral waters were so high in repute, 
in 1556, that 10,000 visitors collected 
here to use them ; and as there was no 
accommodation for such a number in 
the town, a camp was formed on the 
outside of it, where they spent a quarter 
of a year under tents. It now belongs 
to the Prince of Waldeck, who has a 
Palace hero, in which he resides in the 
season. The concourse of visitors has 
fallen off, and does not exceed 5000. 
The season is in July and August. 

The principal street, lined with a 
double row of limes, is called the Grosse 
Alle'e : it forms a shady walk, extend¬ 
ing from the Spring (Trinkquelle) to 
I the Schloss, and is the morning pro- 




Prussia. route 71 . —oldendorf. wedigenstein. 


menade for those who drink the waters; 
at that time a band of music plays. 
The Palace Garden is surrounded by 
a rampart and moat: on one of the 
bastions grows a lime of great size and 
apparent age. 

12 different mineral springs rise in 
and about the town. The Trinkquelle 
is the one most in repute: its water is 
chalybeate—possessing valuable medi¬ 
cinal properties. It produces an exhi¬ 
larating or even intoxicating effect, 
when several glasses are taken together; 
it is highly impregnated with carbonic 
acid gas. The gas Douche, or pipe by 
which the gas arising from the water is 
inhaled, or directed to any part, is tre- 
mendouslypowerful. These chalybeates 
require great caution, and do much 
harm if improperly taken. 

The Well-house, above the Trinkquelle, 
is an octagonal building, surmounted 
by a clock-tower. The Augeribrunnen 
is said to be good for sore eyes. The 
principal baths are das neue Badhaus, 
and das Badhaus fur Eisenbdder (for 
chalybeate baths). 

There are other springs here of saline 
and acidulous water; one of the latter 
is totally without gas, an unique ex¬ 
ample of the kind. 

The Gas Grotto (Diinsthohle) is an 
artificial cavity in the Buntersandstein, 
from which rises a stream of carbonic 
acid gas, which, if breathed, is fatal to 
animal life. Rabbits or dogs exposed 
to its vapour are stifled or killed, as in 
the Grotto del Cane in Naples. 

There is a Theatre here, two Ball¬ 
rooms, and numerous tables for rouge 
ct noir, hazard, &c. 

A small congregation of Quakers 
maintains itself here. 

Schnellposts daily to Herford (Rte. 
6G), on the Cologne and Berlin Rail¬ 
way—to Hanover, in 7 hours. 

The Extersteine, a picturesque as¬ 
semblage of rocks, 16 m. distant (Rte. 
69 a). The Bomberg is worth ascending 
on account of its view: it is accessible 
for carriages. Some antiquaries have 
placed the “ Saltus Teutoburgicus,” the 
forest in which the Roman legions 
under Varus were defeated by Hermann 
(Arminius) (Rte. 68), between Pyrmont 
and Detmold. Hermann’s Castle is said 


403 • 

to have stood on the Hermannsberg , 5 m. 
from Pyrmont.] 

rt. Fischbeck, in a fertile country: 
here is an ancient church and nunnery, 
founded 954, now a school for young 
ladies of noble families. 

rt. Oldendorf. Inns: Stadt Cassel, 
Rathskeller. 1400 Inkab., a town of 
the Elector of Hesse. 1 m. E. rises the 
Hohenstein, a table rock 1075 ft. high, 
with precipitous sides. N.W. from 
Oldendorf is the castle of Schaumburg, 
built 1030, the family seat of the 
Counts of that name. In one part of 
the castle is a gate called “the gate of 
Heaven,” so named from the beautiful 
view suddenly opened to the visitor. 
The hill, called Paschenburg, 1200 ft. 
high, hangs over the castle (see p. 
377). An hotel, much resorted to, is 
found on this elevated spot, the resi¬ 
dence of the ranger of the surrounding 
forests. 

1. Rinteln. ( Inns : Stadt Bremen, 
Rathskeller.) 4000lnhab., capital of 
the Hessian county of Schaumburg, 
with a stone bridge over the Weser. 
Until 1809 there was an university 
here. A beautiful road leads hence to 
the watering-place of Eilsen, to the 
Ludnerklippe, 3 m. off, a cliff from 
which there is a fine view; and to the 
Arnsburg, a castle belonging to the 
Prince of Schaumburg-Lippe, with a 
collection of antiquities, a picture 
gallery, and furnished in the style of 
the middle ages. It is shown to 
strangers. 

1. Mollenbeck, formerly a convent, 
containing a Gothic ch. 

1. Varenholz, with a castle, dating 
from 1595, picturesquely situated on 
the slope of a hill. 

1. Vlotho, a Prussian town of 2200 
Inhab., with considerable trade. 

1. Rehme Stat., containing salt-works 
belonging to the Prussian Government. 
(See Rte. 66.) Here the Minden and 
Cologne railroad crosses the AVeser. 

1. Wedigenstein, with a ruined 
Saxon castle, the residence of the Saxon 
Duke Wittekind, the successful op¬ 
ponent of Charlemagne, rt. The range 
of the Siintel; and 1. that of the Weden- 
berg, approach and form the Wesers- 







404 


ROUTE 72. —CASSEL TO HANOVER. MtJNDEN. Sect. V. 


charte— the Porta Westphalica , through 
which the Weser enters the plain of 1ST. 
Germany. (SeeRte. 66.) Thehills imme- 
* diately above the pass are called, 1. Witte- 
kindsberg, on the rt. Jacobsberg. On 
the former, 780 ft. high, is a tower 60 
ft., dedicated, 1880, “to the admirers 
of nature,” and not far off from it is 
St. Margaret’s chapel, built in the 
14th cent. Jacobsberg was formerly 
called Mt. Anthony, but the present 
name was given by Frederick the Great, 
from one of his old soldiers, who settled 
here as a vintager, and supplied the 
king with excellent grapes. At the 
foot of the Jacobsberg is rt. Ilaus- 
berge. 

1. Minden. See Rte. 66. 

Below Minden down to Bremen the 
shores of the river are flat. No steamer. 

1. Todtenhausen, scene of the battle 
of Minden, 9 Aug. 1759. Rte. 66. 

1. Petershagen: the former residence 
of the Bp. of Minden. 

1. Schlusselburg, with an ancient 
house, containing public offices, for¬ 
merly an episcopal stronghold. 

1. Stolzenau. Inn : D. of York. 
First Hanoverian place on the lower 
Weser, a pretty village, with an old 
castle, formerly the residence of the 
Counts of Hoya: afterwards an occa¬ 
sional resort of George II. of England. 

1. Liebenau, also a castle of the 
Counts Hoya. 

rt. Nienburg, a station on the Bre¬ 
men and Hanover railroad. Rte. 72 a. 

rt. Drakenburg : here the Smalkaldic 
League defeated the Imperialists, 23 
May, 1547. 

1. Hoya. Inn, Stadt Hanover. 2000 
Inhab. An iron bridge here crosses 
the Weser. In the neighbourhood is 
the Holy Mount, covered with trees, 
where from time immemorial vast 
numbers of herons have built nests. 

rt. At a distance above the junction 
of the Aller with the Weser is seen 
the town of Verden, with its cathedral. 
Rte. 72 a. 

rt. Arbergen is the birthplace of 
Olbers the astronomer, and Iieeren 
the historian. 

Bremen. Rte. 72 a. 


ROUTE 72. 

CASSEL TO HANOVER, BY GOTTINGEN. 

Railway — Harwverian Siid-Bahn. 
Trains daily in 4| and 5 hrs. It turns 
out of the line to Paderborn (Rte. 68). 
See rt. Wilhelmshdhe. It follows for 
some distance the windings of the pic¬ 
turesque valley of the Fulda. 

Mlinden (Hannoverisch) Stat. — 
Inns: Goldener Lowe ; Bahnhofs-Re- 
stauration. A town of 6000 Inhab., 
situated between the Fulda and Werra. 
These two streams unite immediately 
below the town, and, losing their names, 
become the Weser, which is navigated 
hence to Minden by steamers (Rte. 
71). 

The Schloss , or old castle, built 1566, 
by Duke Erich II., formerly a residence 
of the Guelphic ancestors of the Royal 
Family of England, is turned into a 
magazine, and its windows walled up. 
The Ch. of St. Blaise is a fine building 
of the 14th century, and contains a 
monument of Erich II. 

The scenery round the town is pleas¬ 
ing, and has been compared with that 
of the Yale of Llangollen, in N. Wales. 
Fine view from Andrees' garden , be¬ 
yond the Werra bridge. TheRly. crosses 
the Werra on a bridge of 6 arches, and 
begins a gradual ascent—overlooking 
the vale of Weser—to the plateau of the 
Leine, a district fruitful in oats, but 
dreary. It reaches its summit level on 
passing through a short tunnel at 





Hanover. 


405 


ROUTE 72. —GOTTINGEN. EIMBECK. 


Dransfeld Stat. The village was burnt 
in 1834, except 2 or 3 houses. 

Gottingen Stat. — Inns: Krone ; 
Gehhards Hotel. None very good. 
Gottingen lies on the Leine, and 
has 14,500 Inhab. It is remarkable 
only for its University. It is des¬ 
titute of fine buildings, and the houses, 
though old, are neither venerable nor 
picturesque in their antiquity, except, 
perhaps, the Rathhaus, a castellated 
edifice. 

The Ramparts , now planted with 
trees, serve as a walk, resembling the 
walls of Chichester. There is an air of 
solitude about the town, which even 
the number of students cannot remove. 
They may he distinguished in the streets 
by the almost inseparable pipe and port¬ 
folio with which each is provided. 
Commerce seems to be confined to lite¬ 
rature and tobacco; and the only 
flourishing trades are the booksellers 
and pipe-sellers, as their shops out¬ 
number all others. 

The University (Georgia Augusta) 
ranks high in Germany. It was founded 
in 1737, by Geo. II., at the suggestion 
of his minister Munchausen. It is re¬ 
garded as the national university of 
Brunswick, Mecklenburg, and Nassau, 
as well as of Hanover. The colour of 
the cap distinguishes the country of 
each student. The number of students 
is about 750, and of professors 60 or 70. 

William IV., to whom a statue has 
been raised, gave 3000/. towards erect¬ 
ing a building for the University , which 
was completed and opened in 1837. 
Here the Council of the University 
meets. The Aula, in which degrees are 
conferred, &c., is an apartment some¬ 
what like the Senate-house at Cam¬ 
bridge, but not so large. Though 
gaudily painted, it is on the whole a 
handsome and effective room. 

The prison (kerker), in which stu¬ 
dents are confined by the authority of 
the Pro-rector of the University and the 
Senatus Academicus, shows, by the in¬ 
scriptions on the walls made by these 
culprits, that imprisonments of 10 days 
are not unusual. 

Duels take place almost eveiy day, 
sometimes 4 or 5 per diem, at a house 


a short distance outside the gates. The 
beadle of the University, who shows the 
museum, told the writer that even his 
son had fought 27 since his academical 
studies began. The first week after 
entering he received a gash on the 
cheek; and before the wound was healed 
he was brought home with his nose slit. 
But what could the beadle do ? His 
son’s antagonist, the perpetrator of this, 
was the son of the Pro-rector of the 
University! 

The Library , situated in what was 
once a handsome church, is excellent, 
and very extensive, having 500,000 
printed volumes and 5000 MSS. It is 
very rich in modern literature and in 
scientific works. The collection of 
paintings contains an altarpiece, by 
John Raphon of Eimbeck, 1506. 

The Museum of Natural History is 
not worthy of the University; but the 
late Prof. Blumenbach bequeathed to it 
his valuable collection, including human 
skulls of the natives of all quarters of 
the globe. Here are some dresses 
brought from the South Seas by Capt. 
Cook, and a few paintings. 

The Botanic Garden is very good. 
The Observatory is under Professor 
Gauss. 

The Gottingen sausages possess some 
reputation among epicures. Bologna, 
Oxford, and Cambridge, all university 
towns, enjoy a similar celebrity. 

The excursion to the Harz is very 
conveniently made from Gottingen, by 
way of Nordheim and Osterode. (Rte. 
73.) 

21 Nordheim, Stat. (Rte. 73.) Post¬ 
waggon 3 times a day to Osterode. 

Salzderhelden Stat. [3 m. N.W.lies 

Eimbeck, a town of 5000 Inhab., 
on the lime. New church well re¬ 
stored;—old church also good: Rath- 
haus, date 1593. Eimbeck beer is fa¬ 
mous : it 'is recorded that Luther, 
worried and worn out by addressing 
the Diet of Worms, was restored in 
spirit and body by a jug of it, handed 
to him by Duke George of Saxony. 
The vale of the lime is pretty and fer¬ 
tile ; it leads to Ahlefeld, agreeably 
situated; handsome tower, with 4 
turrets; a bad road to Hildesheim, but 
through a pretty country.] 



406 


ROUTE 72. —HILDESHEIM. 


Sect. V. 


Kreiensen June. Stat. Here the Ely. 
to Brunswick branches rt. (Rte. 68.) 

Alfeld Stat., a town with a double 
spired eh. and watch-tower, at the foot 
of the Sieben-Briider hills. 

Banteln Stat. Seat of Count Bcn- 
ingsen. 

Else Stat. (Inn, Post.) 

The river Leine is crossed near 

Nordstemmen June. Stat. [Hence a 
branch line diverges to 

Jlildesheim Stat. {Inns: Rheinischer 
Hof; H. d’Angleterre; Wiener Hof), 
an ancient episcopal city, with 16,000 
Inhab., many interesting antiquities, 
and some manufactures. It was capital 
of an ecclesiastical municipality, not 
abolished until 1803. It contains 12 
churches. 

The * Cathedral, a pure specimen of 
Romanesque, 11th cent., on the plan 
of a basilica, has rather a mean exte¬ 
rior, and is buried in the ground 6 ft., 
up to the window-sills, a proof of its 
great age. The W. front has v been 
rebuilt in the worst style, and the 
interior is frightfully modernised. 
The Gothic porch was added 1412. Its 
bronze gates, 17 feet high, unsur¬ 
passed as specimens of early metal 
work, were made for Bp. Bemward, 
1015; the subject of the bas-reliefs 
is the First and Second Adam. (See 
St. Paul’s Epistles.) The ch. con¬ 
tains the gilt shrine of St. Godehard, 
4 ft. long, date probably 1131; also a 
bronze font with bas-reliefs, 6 ft. high, 
including the cover, supported by 4 
figures representing the rivers of Para¬ 
dise, of the 12th cent.; and an Ir- 
minsdule , a pillar of coloured alabaster, 
now surmounted by the cross, in the 
centre of the ch., looked upon as an 
idol of the Pagan Saxons. (See note 
under Bremen, Rte. 72 a.) From the 
roof hangs an elaborate Corona of 
bronze and silver, late 12th cent., re¬ 
presenting towers with statuettes. ‘ ‘ The 
rood-loft is a fine specimen of Renais¬ 
sance (1546) carving and tracery. In 
a side altar, S. aisle, are some enamel 
figures, Byzantine style. The Treasury 
is rich in antique ch. plate. The Cloister 
is small, part (E. side) Romanesque. 
An elegant chapel of 14th cent., dedi¬ 


cated to St. Anne.”— F. S. A rose- 
tree growing on the wall of the crypt 
is said to have been planted by 
Charlemagne. 

On the Dom Platz or close stands 
Bishop Bernward’s brazen pillar , 14 ft. 
high, bearing, in bas-relief, 28 repre¬ 
sentations of the events of our Lord’s 
Life and Passion, winding round it 
like a spinal scroll, after the manner of 
those of Trajan’s Column. Date 1022. 

St. Godehard (Rom. Cath.), founded 
1133, built on the same plan as the 
Dom, is much more interesting as being 
in its original state, or well repaired. 
The nave is a basilica; piers alternate 
with columns ; no triforium. The style 
is plain, perfect Romanesque ; but the 
capitals are very rich, in high relief, 
and the N. door is much ornamented. 

St. Michael's , similar to it, even 
grander in its proportions than the Dom, 
is a nearly unaltered basilica (dates 
1022 and 1186). It is upon the Bene¬ 
dictine plan, with 2 apsidal choirs, 2 
transepts, 2 crypts, and originally 6 
towers. Observe the carving of the 
capitals and wooden stalls, and the 
series of scripture subjects painted on 
the nave-roof. It has a fine cloister; 
the wall of the choir is ornamented 
with figures of apostles, &c., in re¬ 
lief. The neighbouring convent is 
now a Narren-Anstalt. The Church 
on the Moritzberg is very ancient. 
The Churches of St. Andreas and St. 
Lambert are also worth a visit. In the 
very rich Treasury are a silver model 
of the Tower of the Dom in 1367, the 
shrine of St. Oswald; a silver cross 
and chalice, a crucifix 20 in. high, 
covered with gold plates, set with 
precious stones, and ornamented with 
filigree, the work of Bishop Bemward 
(d. 1122), who was a great promoter of 
the art; also 2 candelabra of bronze, 
ornamented with bas-relief. Obs. the 
Rathhaus , having portraits of the Bishops 
on its walls, and Tempelhaus; the House 
of Auditor Wyncken in the Langenhagen, 
front entirely of carved stone-work 
(17th cent.). The Square, Altmarkt- 
strasse, and street behind, abound in 
curious specimens of old domestic 
architecture, timber-framed houses, &c. 

The Georg's Stiff, a sort of lay Nun- 




Prussia. 


407 


ROUTE 72 A. —DUSSELDORF TO BREMEN. 


nery, its inmates not being bound by 
vows, was founded 1829 by George IV., 
for 12 daughters of men who had served 
the state, eligible without reference to 
birth or religion. 

There is a good post-road from 
Hildesheim to Goslar, in the Harz. 
(Rte. 73.)] 

From Nordstemmen the Hanover 
Illy, proceeds by 

Sarstedt, Re then, W iilfel Stats., to 

Hanover Station. (Rte. 66.) 


ROUTE 72 a. 

DUSSELDORF TO BREMEN - .—RAILWAY. 

The Cologne, Minden, and Hanover 
Railway is followed as far as 

Wunstorf Junct. Stat.—see Rte. 66. 

Wunstorf to Bremen, 63 Eng. m. 
3 trains daily in 2^ hours. It is for 
the most part over a dreary country. 

Neustadt Stat. 

1. in the distance is seen the Stein- 
huder Meer, a large mere or lake : on 
an island in the midst Count Wm. v. der 
Lippe built a toy fortress and erected 
a military school, in which General 
Schamhorst began his education. Some 
miles farther W. are the remains of the 
Abbey of Loccum , consisting of a fine 
pointed ch. repaired since 1850, cloister, 
chapter-house, refectory, and other 
buildings, founded by the Cistercian 
Order 1240-50. The E. end of the ch. 
is square, and is flanked on each side 
with a pair of curious chapels. 

Nienburg Stat. Inn, Stadt London. 
The fortifications of this town were 
razed in 1807 by the French. 

Verden Stat., on the river Aller, the 
seat of a bishopric founded by Charle¬ 
magne, who slaughtered here 4000 of 
the Pagan Saxons. The Bom, without a 
tower, 274 ft. long; choir and transepts 
date 1291-1390 : the nave, 1473-90, de¬ 
serves examination ; it is part of brick, 
part of stone. The windows of the 
transepts and E. end show good tra¬ 
cery of brick moulded in a style re¬ 
sembling Decorated. Ohs. several mo¬ 


numents of Bishops, the Bishop’s 
Throne (14th cent.), and some old 
glass. In the adjoining small Ch. of 
St. Andrew is the earliest brass known 
in Germany or England, to Bp. Yso, 
d. 1231. of 

Langwedel Stat. 

Achim Stat. 

Sebaldsbruck Stat. 

Bremen Stat., on the 1ST. side of the 
town and of the Weser. 

Bremen. Inns: H. du Nord; Al¬ 
bertis II.; H. de 1’Europe ; Hillman’s 
Hotel—all 4 near the railway. Stadt 
Frankfurt, in the Domshof. Droschkies 
ply at the rly.Stat., and in the town. 

Money .—Local accounts are kept in 
Grote. The Pruss. Dollar = 63 Grote ; 
Dutch Gulden = 36 Grote ; 2 Grote 
= 1 S. gr. Bremen is a beautiful, 
flourishing town, as clean as those of 
Holland, smrounded by bright pictu¬ 
resque gardens or boulevards, beyond 
which on the N. stretches a belt of 
suburb of new white houses, but the 
inner and older town contains many 
old buildings, chiefly of Renaissance 
style. It was anciently a Free City 
of the Empire, and one of the 3 Hanse 
Towns; but in 1867 was joined to 
Prussia, and receives a garrison from 
her. It has 76,000 Inhab. (4000 R. 
Cath.). The old town lies on the banks 
of the Weser, and the two divisions are 
connected by handsome bridges. The 
dyke of the Weser causes some ap¬ 
prehension to the town. No dredging 
being used to deepen the channel, the 
bottom of the river rises by the de¬ 
posits brought down by its current, and 
the dyke is raised year after year to 
counteract this ; so that in time the 
bed of the river will be on a level with 
the town itself; and, were the dyke to 
break, immense injury would ensue. 
The territory of Bremen, about 3^ Germ, 
square m. in extent, consists chiefly of 
drained marsh - land, intersected by 
ditches and canals, affording good pas¬ 
turage to cattle. It is governed by a 
senate, which enjoys the dignified title 
of Die Wittheit (The Wisdom). It has 
some manufactures, but its prosperity 
depends chiefly on its shipping and trade 
with America, Archangel, France, Great 







408 


ROUTE 72 A.—BREMEN. 


Sect. V. 


Britain, N. America, the Baltic, and 
Spain. A greater quantity of tobacco 
is imported here than in all the other 
ports of Germany put together, averag¬ 
ing more than 24 million lbs. annually. 
The improvements in the navigation of 
the Weser and its confluents have ex¬ 
tended the relations of Bremen into the 
heart of Germany. 

Almost all the objects of interest are 
comprised within a limited area E. of 
the town and not far from the stat. 

In the Dorn (Lutheran), originally a 
Romanesque building, 12th cent., with 
additions resembling in parts the E. 
English style (it is 100 ft. high), 
Obs. the square E. end, and the 
open gallery in the N.E. aisle. The 
organ is one of the finest in Germany. 
In front of it are some fragments of a 
beautiful roodloft with bas-reliefs (1500). 
See the bronze Font , supported by 4 
antique figures riding on lions, and en¬ 
circled with small bas-reliefs; an en¬ 
graved brass in the sacristy (1477); and 
some carved stalls , now in a side chapel. 
Under the ch. is & crypt(Bleikeller) which 
has the property of preserving free from 
decomposition, after the lapse of cen¬ 
turies, several bodies interred in it. The 
sexton who shows them to the curious 
stranger recounts their names and his¬ 
tories, as though he were describing a 
gallery of pictures. 

St. Ansgar is a ch. of 13th cent., 
E. end fiat, with lancet windows of 
brick; body of the ch. stone. Tower 
324 ft. high. 

The Rathhaus, in the Market-place, 
has the side facing the Dom of good 
late Gothic (1410), but its S. faqade, 
added 1612, is an equally good example 
of the Renaissance style, much en¬ 
riched with fantastic sculpture, statues 
of the 7 Electors and Emperor, &c. See 
in the great Hall (always open) the 
marble statue of Burgomaster Schmidt; 
the ladies’ balcony (Guldenkammer) 
and carved staircase leading to it. 

On the W. side is the entrance to 
the Cellars beneath. In a particular 
compartment are casks called the Rose, 
and the 12 Apostles , filled with fine 
hock, some of it a century and a half 
old. It is sold in glasses or bottles. 


This nectar was at one time valued at 
a ducat a glass. Good oysters may 
be had here; an abundant supply of 
excellent Rhenish is close at hand, 
and admirable cigars may be procured 
in Bremen. 

In the market-place, opposite the 
Rathhaus, is a Rolandsaule,* a stone 
statue of a man 18 ft. high, a symbol 
of the rights and privileges of the town, 
erected 1412 in the place of a wooden 
one. The drawn sword and the head 
and hand at the feet of the figure refer 
to the power of life and death in crimi¬ 
nal causes enjoyed by the magistrates. 

The Exchange (Neue Borse), a hand¬ 
some Gothic building, rather too like a 
church with double aisles, was erected 
1867. 1 o’clock is the hour of business. 

In the same place is the Schiitting , 
a Chamber of Commerce, where the 
head merchants meet to transact busi¬ 
ness. 

The Museum in the Domshof is a 
club where newspapers are taken in, 
and to which a good collection of natu¬ 
ral history is attached. 

The Kunsthalle is a large building, 
near the Osterthor, devoted to the 
purposes of art, holding the collections 
of the Art Union. Within are a 
Psyche, by Steinhauser, and some mo¬ 
dern German pictures. Mr. Albers has 
a small but choice collection of ancient 
and modern pictures. 

Olbers , the astronomer, who discovered 
in his observatory here the planets 
Vesta and Pallas, was a native of this 
place, as well as Heeren the historian. 
A statue of Olbers, by Steinhauser, a 
Bremen sculptor, has been erected on 
the Boulevard ; and one of Gustav 
Adolph , by Eogelberg, a Swede, on the 
Domshaide. 

The Artists’ Club (Kiinstlerverein) is 
a Gothic building, 13th cent., carefully 
restored. It includes coffee- and con¬ 
cert-rooms. Strangers may be intro¬ 
duced by a member, here or at the 
Union Club. 

By all means explore the *Pleasant 

* These Roland-columnsare found in several 
towns of N, Germany, and were no doubt first 
erected after the conversion of the Germans 
to Christianity, to replace the sacred trees and 
columns around which the chief men of the 
nation used to hold their assemblies. 




Prussia. 


ROUTE 72 A.—BREMEN. 73. —THE HARZ. 


409 


Walks, on the site of the rampart or 
Stadt Wall round the old town, they 
are the great attraction of Bremen. 
There is a Theatre for German plays 
and operas. 

Railroads to Bremerhafen, Wunstorf, 
Lehrte, Hanover, Berlin, Diisseldorf, 
Munster, Osnabruck, and Cologne ; 
Oldenburg and Wilhelmshafen. 

Post-Office in the Stadthaus. Tele¬ 
graph in the Exchange. 

Eilwagen to Hamburg, Diepholz. 

Steamers from Bremerhafen to Lon¬ 
don twice a week; to Hull once a week, 
in about 40 hrs. ; to New York, touch¬ 
ing at Southampton, weekly, in 15 to 
16 days. 

Bremen to Bremerhafen, the Port 
of Bremen ; accessible to large ships. 
Rail in If hr. Steamer several times 
a day, in 6 hrs. 

The depth of water in the AVeser at 
Bremen is sufficient to admit only small 
vessels drawing 7 ft. Ships of burthen 
unload their cargoes at the port of 

Bremerhafen (Inns, Twietmeyer’s and 
Steinhof’s), near the mouth of the 
AYcser, 30 m. below Bremen, opened in 
1830, and built on a piece of ground 
ceded by the government of Hanover. It 
is rising rapidly into importance (9500 
Inhab.). Every year from 40,000 to 
60,000 German emigrants embark here 
for America. 

The Auswanderer Haas, built 1849, 
is a useful establishment, capable of 
receiving 2500 departing emigrants, 
and of feeding 6000 per diem from 
its kitchen. Steamers ply in 13-15 
hrs. 3 times every week in summer 
to the island Nordernci, one of the 
chain of broken dunes, or sand islands, 
which skirt the coast of Germany 
from Holland to Denmark. It is 
frequented as a watering-place by the 
Germans. ( Inns : Grosses und Kleines 
Logirhaus; Kruse’s; and Schmird.) 
The Conversations-Haus contains dining, 
ball, and reading-rooms, &c. At low 
water the island may be reached on foot 
or in a carriage from the mainland. A 
guide, called Strandvogt, shows the 
way. 

The Weser is usually accessible in 
winter, and the landing is in a commo¬ 
dious dock at Bremerhafen. 

[n. G.] 


ROUTE 73. 

THE HARZ.—GOTTINGEN TO CLAUS- 

THAL, GOSLAR, THE BROCKEN, THE 

ROSSTRAPPE, VALE OF THE BODE, AND 

ALEXISBAD. 

The Harz, the most northerly range 
of mountains in Germany, is about 
70 m. long, and 20 to 28 broad; it lies 
on the confines of Hanover, Brunswick, 
Anhalt, Bernburg, and Prussia; and is 
divided among them, though the largest 
share belongs to Hanover. The Brocken, 
the loftiest summit, is lower than the 
highest British mountains, but the 
Harz chain rises alone, immediately 
out of a level plain extending all the 
way to the Baltic, whose inhabitants, 
accustomed to an uninterrupted flat, 
exaggerate both the elevation and the 
beauties of the only range of hills that 
falls within their observation. Their 
scenery would appear tame, and their 
height inconsiderable, to one accus¬ 
tomed to the Alps, in comparison with 
which the Harz is a mere molehill. 
This statement is made with the view 
of counteracting the exaggerated praises 
of some of the guide-books ; indeed, it 
is hardly worth the while of the hunter 
after the picturesque, who has seen 
other parts of Europe, to go far out of 
his way to explore the Harz, unless he 
be, at the same time, a geologist, or 
interested in mining operations, as these 
branches of knowledge may be profit¬ 
ably studied here. 


T 





410 


ROUTE 73. —THE HARZ. 


Sect. V. 


The points usually visited are, the 
Brocken , on account of its view, which 
is rarely seen, owing to the mists which 
envelop it, and the constant rain at 
most seasons; it is also famous for the 
superstitions connected with it, and for 
the phenomenon called Spectre of the 
Brocken. The Rosstrappe and valley 
of the Bode are more interesting than 
the Brocken, from their fine and pecu¬ 
liar scenery. Between these two places 
are the curious caves of Baumanns and 
Bielshohle , interesting to geologists on 
account of the fossil bones found in 
them. 

The principal mines are at Clausthal , 
Andreasberg , and Goslar. 

For the Germans this district has a 
peculiar historical interest, as it is sup¬ 
posed to be the land of Hermann (Ar- 
minius), the formidable antagonist of 
the Homans, and among its woods and 
rocks were the fastnesses of the indomi¬ 
table Cherusci. A carriage with 2 
horses costs 4 thalers the day—a guide 
is well paid with 1 thaler. 

Plan for an abbreviated Tour of the 
Harz. —•“ Start from Gottingen in the 
morning by rail for Nordheim, and, 
posting to Andreasberg, reach that 
place by two o’clock. The stage from 
Harzburg (where the Harz properly 
commences) to Andreasberg is woody 
and picturesque. A short time being 
allowed for dinner, to visit the mouth 
of Samson’s Mine and the stamping- 
works adjoining, abundance of time re¬ 
mains to pursue the agreeable walk 
which leads to the top of the Brocken, 
but for which, in part, a guide is desir¬ 
able, on account of the swampy nature 
of the ground. The traveller follows 
during this walk a watercourse called 
the Rehbergergraben, which conveys a 
stream to the works of Andreasberg 
from a place called Oderteich, and 
passes through one of the most charac¬ 
teristic and picturesque valleys of the 
Harz. 

“ After sleeping at the Brocken an 
excursion should be made down the 
valley of the Ilse to the point called 
Ilsenstein, and the traveller, then re¬ 
tracing his steps for some way, passes 
across the N.E. shoulders of the Broc¬ 


ken, under the Zetter-klippen, to 
Schierke, where he may dine, and reach 
Elbingerode in the evening, and he 
might even visit the open iron-mines 
of Buchberg the same day. 

“ Next day should be devoted to a 
visit to the Rosstrappe. The caves at 
Rubeland are scarce worth visiting, 
but thence a guide may be procured to 
point out the shortest woodland path to 
the Rosstrappe, 12 m. distant, which 
displays the greatest variety of charm¬ 
ing scenery. The walks round the 
Rosstrappe might occupy some hours, 
and the Inn there will afiord accom¬ 
modation ; or two hours’ walk will take 
the traveller to Blankenburg, at the 
extremity of the Harz.”— Pr. F. 


From Brunswick the Harz is now 
readily approached by the Harzburg 
Railway (Rte. 66), which terminates at 
Harzburg or Neustadt-Harzburg, as it is 
also called, 6 m. from Goslar. Another 
Rly. from Halberstadt by Ditfurth and 
Quedlinburg brings you to Thale. The 
Roads in the interior of the Harz are 
much improved and generally practic¬ 
able for light carriages, though often 
very circuitous, owing to the billy 
character of the ground. A good mac¬ 
adamised carriage road runs between 
Gottingen and Goslar; also between 
Goslar, Wernigerode, and Halberstadt. 
From ’Wernigerode to Elbingerode and 
Blankenburg, the same. A good mac¬ 
adamised road has been constructed 
from Clausthal to Andreasberg over the 
Bruchberg; it extends to Braunlege, 
Rothehiitte, and Elbingerode. A good 
road leads from Harzburg to the Torf- 
liause, at the foot of the Brocken, and 
thence past the Oder Teich to Oder- 
bruch and Konigskrug. From Werni- 
gerode to the Brocken there is a carriage 
road only for light carriages or horses 
beyond Ilsenburg. The Rosstrappe is 
now made accessible to multitudes 
from the cities of N. Germany by the 
rly. from Halberstadt to Thale. 

The following excursion may be 
easily made in 4 days, thus:— 

1st, from Gottingen to Goslar. 2nd, 
Goslar to the Brocken. 3rd, Brocken 





Prussia. 


411 


ROUTE 73. —THE HARZ. CLAUSTHAL. 


to Blankenburg. 4th, to Rosstrappe 
and Alexisbad. 

From Gottingen to Goslar is half a 
day’s journey. We follow the Railroad 
from Gottingen to Hanover and Bruns¬ 
wick (Rte. 72) as far as 

2'f Nordheim Stat. {Inn: Sonne, 
good) ( Gothic Ch. 1519, old carved 
altarpiece and painted glass); and there 
turn off by a road which passes the 
village and old castle of Kattenburg, 
and threads the valleys of the Rhume 
and Sbse. Schnellpost daily in 2^ hrs. 
to Osterode, in 4b to Clausthal, to 
Goslar daily in 7 h. The district abounds 
in gypsum, of which there are quarries 
at the road-side. 

2| Osterode. Inns ; Englischer Hof; 
Krone; Kronprinz. A town of 5000 
Inhab., on the Sose, supported by 
various manufactures of wool, cotton, 
&c. It contains enormous corn ware¬ 
houses, from which, by a provision of 
the government, the miners of the dis¬ 
trict and their families are supplied with 
corn at a fixed low price, even in times 
of scarcity, and when it rises in other 
districts. The Harz itself, from its 
elevation and barren soil, produces 
scarcely any grain. There are some 
curious old monuments in the Church. 
In front of the Rathhaus hang, at¬ 
tached to chains, a knife and a long 
bone: their origin or meaning is not 
satisfactorily explained. 

A few miles beyond this the ascent 
of the Harz begins; the two stages 
hence to Goslar are so hilly, that the 
postmasters’ regulations allow them to 
put on additional horses to carnages. 
The hills are clothed with dark pine- 
woods ; glimpses of the Brocken may 
be obtained on the right. The goitre 
is not uncommon among the inhabitants 
of Lcrbach. 

\\ Clausthal.—Inns : Goldene Krone; 
Stadt London. This is the principal 
mining town (Bergstadt) of the Harz ; 
it has 9070 inhab., and the adjoining 
town of Zellerfeld 4176, chiefly miners 
or persons connected with the mines 
and smelting-houses. It lies in a bare 
bleak region, on the top and slopes of a 
hill, 1860 Eng. ft. above the sea, an ele¬ 
vation where com ceases to ripen. There 


is a desolate look about it; its houses 
are chiefly of wood, and even its prin¬ 
cipal church is of the same material. 
It was destroyed by fire, 1844. In 
order to visit the School of Mines, 
Mint, Mines, and Furnaces, strangers 
must apply to the chief of the mines, 
Berghauptman, for a permission (Er- 
laubnisscliein), which is readily granted, 
and which the landlord of the inn will 
procure. 

The School of Mines (Bergschule), in 
a corner-house of the market-place, is 
destined for the gratuitous education of 
young miners, and is supported by 
the Government. It contains an ex¬ 
tensive collection of models of mines, 
and of the machinery and buildings 
used in mining and smelting, very in¬ 
structive for those who wish to obtain 
some knowledge of the processes in use. 
Also a very good cabinet of the minerals 
found in the Harz. Collectors may 
purchase specimens here. 

The Mint (Munze). Here the pre¬ 
cious metals produced in the Hano¬ 
verian district of the Harz are assayed 
and coined to the extent of about 14,000 
dollars weekly, and of 600 or 800 gold 
ducats (chiefly from the Rammelsberg 
near Goslar) annually. The miners’ 
wages, to the amount of 5000 dollars, 
are usually paid at the Rathhaus every 
Saturday, with silver dollars coined 
during the week. For 5 days out of 
the 7, a miner in full employment 
works 12 hours under ground. 

The Mines principally visited are the 
Caroline and the Dorothea , as they are 
the cleanliest and best ventilated. The 
entrance to them is about half an hour’s 
walk from the town, at two great black¬ 
ened buildings, where the stranger, 
who has secured his permission from the 
Director of the mines, is provided with 
a miner’s dress, a stiff felt cap, without 
a brim, to resist knocks on the head, a 
leather apron tied on behind, and a 
coarse grey jacket and trowsers; also 
with guides to attend him, bearing 
lights. The descent is by a series of 
ladders; it is dark, damp, and fa¬ 
tiguing, but not dangerous : the miner 
clings fast by his hands, and never 
minds his feet; he holds on by the steps, 
and not by the side of the ladder, ami 

T 2 





412 


Sect. V. 


ROUTE 73.—THE HARZ. GOSLAR. 


this ensures safety. Arrived at the 
bottom, the visitor sees little except 
wheels and ropes, by which the ore is 
raised, and water pumped out: he hears 
a rattling of machinery, and here and 
there finds a solitary miner, plying the 
pickaxe and chisel, to extract the ore. 
A general idea of the process of mining 
is best learned from models above¬ 
ground. In the mine called Silberse- 
gen is a perpendicular shaft, 176 fathoms 
deep, with a pump moved by a water 
column, which draws up the water 
688 ft. A subterranean canal , 2339 
fathoms long, has been constructed to 
convey the ore from some of the shafts. 
The mine called Herzog Georg Wilhelm 
contains one of the deepest shafts in the 
Harz ; it reaches down 2000 ft., which 
is below the level of the Baltic. The 
mines of Clausthal are (brained by a 
subterranean tunnel, cut through the 
mountain, 6 m. long, which empties 
itself at the small town of Grand; it is 
called Georgstollen. 

As the machinery for pumping water 
out of the mines, as well as for the 
forges, tilt-hammers, and stamping- 
mills, is all put in motion by water¬ 
power, the utmost attention is paid to 
collecting an adequate supply for this 
purpose. Every little rill in the neigh¬ 
bourhood of Clausthal is dammed up 
and formed into a reservoir. There 
are more than 50 of these ponds to 
supply the works about Clausthal and 
Zellerfeld alone; they set in motion 
170 water-wheels, and the water is con¬ 
ducted from the reservoirs to the mills 
in canals or aqueducts, the entire length 
of which is not less than 125 Eng. m. 

About 2 m. W. of Clausthal is the 
Silver Smelting Foundry, called the 
Frankenscharner Silberhiitte ; the neigh¬ 
bourhood of it is literally a blasted 
waste, owing to the destructive effects 
produced upon vegetation by the vapours 
of lead and arsenic which issue from the 
smelting-houses. The stream puts in 
motion 13 stamping-mills, where the 
ore is crushed and washed in readiness 
for the furnace. 

There is a cross-road from Clausthal 
to Goslar, practicable for a light car¬ 
riage, and far more interesting than 
the post-road, through the Vale of the 


Oker, one of the most romantic in the 
Harz. The finest points are the Stu- 
denten and Fichtenklippe. It passes by 
the smelting-houses of Schulenberg, and 
through the village of Oker, 6 or 7 m. 
lower down, and only 3 m. from Goslar'; 
from Oker to Goslar the road is good. 

The post-road (13 m., diligence 
twice daily in 2^ hrs.) passes near some 
enormous Slate Quarries on approach¬ 
ing Goslar. The rock has been exca¬ 
vated into a cleft of tremendous depth, 
in order to drain off the water. The 
mountain on the rt. is the Rammelsberg. 
Out of its bowels precious and useful 
metals, gold, silver, copper, lead, zinc, 
have been dug for nearly 800 years. 
So many different minerals are rarely 
found within so small a space. The 
mountain is penetrated through and 
through in all directions by miners’ 
shafts and galleries, and its riches are 
not yet exhausted. The produce at 
present, however, barely repays the 
outlay; but the works are continued 
by the Hanoverian Government not¬ 
withstanding, on account of the large 
population depending entirely on the 
mines for subsistence. The ducats 
coined from the gold derived from this 
mine have the inscription “ Ex auro 
Hercynise.” The ore is not extracted 
by blasting, but by the following un¬ 
usual process. Large stacks of wood 
are raised within the mine, against the 
surface of the rock, where it abounds 
with metal. They are then set on fire, 
and allowed to burn for 48 hours to¬ 
gether, during which time all the open¬ 
ings and passages of the mine are 
closed, and no one enters it. At the 
end of that time the rock is found 
cracked and shattered by the heat to 
the depth of several feet, so that the 
ore is easily extracted from it. ' 

2 Goslar. Inns : Kaiserworth, a pictu¬ 
resque old house in the market-place 
(15th cent.), once the hall of a Guild, 
or Corporation ; Romischer Kaiser.—- 
Goslar is 900 Eng. ft. above the sea. It 
was once a free Imperial city of great 
importance in the 10th cent. Tt owed its 
rise and prosperity to the discovery of 
the gold and silver mines under Otho I., 
and was the residence of the Emperors 
of Germany, and seat of the Diet. It 







4lo 


Prussia. route 73 . —the 

is named from the Gose, a small stream 
flowing through it. It is now a dull 
and deserted-looking provincial town, 
with 6800 Inhab., and belongs to 
Hanover. It is still interesting, how¬ 
ever, for its history, and for the pecu¬ 
liarly picturesque air of antiquity dis¬ 
played in its buildings ; among which 
the Gothic Rathhaus (15th cent.), con¬ 
taining some antiquities, and Armenhaus 
may be specified. 

The sole relic of the old Imperial Bom , 
pulled down 1820, is the porch (Vor- 
lialle, date 1150), now used as a Mu¬ 
seum. This fragment is of early Ro¬ 
manesque architecture; on the front are 
some colossal statues. It contains the 
Altar of Krodo, a curious antique monu¬ 
ment of metal, believed at one time 
to he an altar of the early Saxons, but 
more probably a shrine or relic chest, of 
early Italian workmanship (? 11th cent.) 
The sides and bottom of bronze gilt seem 
alone to be original; the filigrees and 
marble top are of Charlemagne’s time, as 
perhaps are the bronze frame and kneel¬ 
ing figures, like some of those which sup¬ 
port the metal fonts in Germ, churches. 
It was carried off to Paris by the French. 
In the same place are deposited some 
ancient paintings of no great value, 
and a Crucifixion carved in wood: the 
windows contain painted glass of the 
14th cent. 

The Kaiserhaus—* Emperor’s Palace 
—2 stories high, restored by King 
George, is the identical edifice erected 
by the Emperor Henry III. 1059, and 
in its great Hall, of Romanesque archi¬ 
tecture, long used as a granary, the 
Diets of the Empire were held in the 
11th and 12 th cents. The Roman¬ 
esque windows, doors, pillars, capitals, 
are well worth the study of architect 
and antiquary. The Emperor’s private 
chapel exists within the “ Gefangniss- 
thurm.” 

The Ch. in the Market-place is a good 
plain Romanesque edifice, founded by 
the Emp. Henry II. The Neuwerks 
Kirche (1200-50) is a perfect and plain 
Romanesque ch., with pointed vaulting, 
windows 2 and 2 ; curious open pro¬ 
jections of vaulting pillars; 2 have a 
ring or snake inserted loose. Apsis 
curiously ornamented outside. ' Brass 


HARZ. GOSLAR. 

font and candelabra (? date). 2 octa¬ 
gonal towers. Pulpit with sculptures. 
Tomb of the Wittgensteins, 1400. 

The Zwinger, one of the old towers 
which formed the outer defences of the 
city, is now fitted up as a place of en¬ 
tertainment, in which beer called Gose 
is sold ; its walls are 21 ft. thick. 

Marshal Saxe, son of the celebrated 
Aurora von Konigsmark, mistress of 
Augustus of Saxony, was horn at 
Goslar, Oct. 28, 1696. His birth 
is registered here as “ Meurice , son of 
a great lady, born in Winkel’s house, ’ 
without the name of father or mother. 

Near the Rosenthor. The Ch. of the 
Neuvcork (date 1178-86) shows the tran¬ 
sition from round to pointed. 

In a private garden, outside the 
Rosenthor, are a portion of the ruins 
of the Church of Richenberg , a crypt of 
3 aisles, built 1131. 

In order to visit the Mines in the 
Rammelsberg a permission must he 
obtained from the Chief of the mines 
in the town. The entrance to them 
is about a mile out of the town ; inti¬ 
mation of the visit should be sent the 
evening before. They may he explored 
without the necessity of descending 
any ladders. The best time to see 
them is between 4 and 8 on Saturday 
morning, when the fires are first lighted. 
After that time the mine is closed, and 
no one enters till Monday morning. 
The guides receive 15 Sgr. or 10 Sgr. 
each from a party. 

Outside of the Broad Gate of Gos¬ 
lar is a singular isolated rock of sand¬ 
stone, called the Claus , which has been 
excavated into a comfortable dwelling; 
it was once a hermitage and chapel. 

The distance from Goslar to the top 
of the Brocken is about 28 m. A 
schnellpost daily to Harzburg in 1£ hr. 
In going thither we pass Oker at the 
mouth of the valley of the Oker, one of 
the most beautiful in the Harz, and 
Neustadt-Harzburg. 

At Harzburg a very copious brine- 
spring issues out of the Keuper sand¬ 
stone and muschelkalk limestone. 

Railroad from Goslar to Yienenherg 
Stat., from Harzburg to Brunswick. 
(Rte. '66.) The road to Ilsenburg is 
very circuitous. 



414 


Sect. V. 


ROUTE 73. —THE HARZ. THE BROCKEN. 


Near Eckerkrug we pass out of 
Hanover into Prussia, to 

Ilsenburg, about 14 m. from Gos- 
lar.— Inn, Itothe Forelle (Red Trout, 
for which it is famed). This is a small 
village 890 Eng. ft. above the sea-level at 
the mouth of the pretty valley of the Ilsc, 
up which runs the road to the Brocken. 
A carriage may he sent round to await 
the traveller at Schierke, while the 
ascent is made in a light car or on mule- 
back. A carriage holding 4 may be 
hired from the landlord of the Forelle for 
8 dollars, or 10 if it he kept on the sum¬ 
mit all night. A mule costs 2 dollars. 

. Before setting out for the Brocken 
it is worth while to mount to the top 
of the Ilsenstein , a projecting precipice 
of bare rock,- towering above the 
woods on the 1. side of the valley, 
surmounted by an iron Cross , erected as a 
monument of the War. Commodious 
winding paths lead up to the summit, 
where a grand prospect over some very 
wild scenery rewards the climbers. 

The distance from Ilsenburg to the 
Brocken, in a direct line, is not more 
than 6 m. The carriage road is more 
than twice as much; it passes up the 
course of the Ilse, through dark woods 
occupied by charcoal burners, and 
amidst masses of rock. The whole way 
is a series of wild sylvan scenes, recalling 
to mind the remarkable description of 
the ascent to it in Gothe’s Faust. 

The Brockenhaus is the name of the 
Inn on the platform of bare rock which 
forms the summit of the Brocken: the 
accommodations and provisions are 
very fair, considering that every ar¬ 
ticle is earned up on the back of mules 
a distance of 12 or 15 m. The 
charges are settled by tariff, according 
to the Prussian police regulations. The 
walls are thick, the windows small, 
and the house is heated hy stoves all 
the year round. The host is very 
obliging and highly intelligent: he lives 
here constantly. 

The Brocken, or Blocksberg (Mons 
Bructerus), the highest of the Harz 
Mountains, is 3700 Eng. ft. above the 
level of the sea. In a cleft called 
Schneeloch, about a mile from the inn, 
snow lies almost all the year round. 


The summit and framework, as it were, 
of the mountain, is granite, round 
which the other rocks are wrapped, 
enveloping it like a mantle. It has 
long enjoyed the reputation of being 
haunted. * The district may indeed be 
considered the cradle of innumerable 
superstitions, some of them even now 
not extinct, of Gnomes and Cobolds, 
witches, and the headless horseman. 
Several odd-shaped masses of granite 
around the summit of the Brocken are 
named after the witches ; for example, 
the Devil’s Pulpit , the Witches’ Altar, 
and, not far off, the Witches’ Lake and 
Wash-hand Basin. According to the 
well-known legend, the witches hold 
their sabbath on this spot once a year, 
upon the eve of May-day, called in 
Germany Walpurgisnacht , from the 
name of a saint who converted the 
Saxons to Christianity. At this annual 
conventicle (such is the common belief) 
all the evil spirits in the world assemble 
to offer allegiance to their unmention¬ 
able master, celebrating the festival 
with unholy orgies. Mortals who are 
hold enough to venture up dining this 
night have the privilege of beholding 
their own ghosts on the top of the 
Brocken, with a billet pinned to their 
backs bearing the name of those who 
have wished them there. 

The curious optical phenomenon 
called the Spectre of the Brocken, occa¬ 
sionally seen from this spot, may have 
contributed to strengthen the belief of 
its being haunted. It is not very rare, 
as it occurs usually 8 or 9 times a year, 
and is not confined to any particular 
season. It appears at sunset or sun¬ 
rise, whenever the mists happen to 
ascend perpendicularly out of the valley 
on the side opposite to the sun, and 
leave the mountain top itself free from 
vapour. The shadow of the mountain 
is reflected against the perpendicular 
face of the rising vapour, as it were 
against a wall, of gigantic dimensions. 
The inn then becomes a palace in size, 
and the human beings on the summit 
appear giants. The size of the figures 
increases or diminishes as the fog is 
driven farther from or nearer to the 
Brocken top by the wind. “ If the fog 
is very dry, you see not only yourself 



Prussia. 


415 


ROUTE 73. —THE HARZ. BLANKENBURG. 


but your neighbour; if very clamp, 
only yourself, surrounded by a rain¬ 
bow-coloured glory, which becomes 
more lustrous and beautiful the damper 
and thicker the fog is, and the nearer 
it approaches.”— Howitt. 

The Panorama from the top of the 
Brocken is fine, and very extensive 
when it can be seen, though at the best 
inferior to that from the Victorshohe 
near Alexisbad. The horizon is 
rarely quite free of cloud, and nine 
times out of ten no good view is to 
be had at sunrise. It is therefore pru¬ 
dent for those who make up their minds 
to pass a night on the Brocken, in 
order to see the view, to reach the 
summit before sunset, so that, if the 
weather be clear, they may have two 
chances of seeing something. 

There is a char-road from the 
Brocken to 

Wernigerode (Inns: Wcisser Ilirsch ; 
Deutsches Haus; Goldener Lowe), 
an antiquated town of 6000 In- 
hab., belonging to Count Stolberg, 
which suffered from fire in the spring 
of 1847. Its picturesque timber-houses 
— e. g. the Frankenfeldhaus and the 
Rathhaus in the Market, will delight 
the eye of an artist, being picturesque 
and curious. Thence to Elbingerode 
is a macadamised road. The foot¬ 
path descends directly to Elbingerode, 
a distance of about 14 m. It passes 
through the desolate region of Elend 
(Misery) by Schierke, a village with 
5000 Inhab., at an elevation of 1860 
Eng. ft. above the sea. The rocks 
around it assume singular shapes, and 
receive the strangest names,—as Hell, 
the Firestone, the Snorters (Schnarcher). 
Many of these are mentioned or alluded 
to in Gothe’s Faust, and it was up this 
road that Mephistophiles conducted his 
hero to the top of the Brocken. By 
broad daylight, however, and in the 
sunshine, the landscape of which they 
form part has a merely picturesque 
character, free from all horrors. Schnell- 
post daily to Ilalberstadt Stat. 

Elbingerode.— Inn , Blauer Engel; 
Bischbieters. Here horses and car¬ 
riages may be hired for the ascent of 
the Brocken. This is a Hanoverian 
town 2500 Inhab. (1580 Eng. ft. I 


above the sea), “ large, naked, and 
bleak-looking.” In the vicinity are 
numerous iron-mines, or rather quarries, 
for the ore occurs in such large masses 
that it is quarried out in the open air. 
It is smelted in the neighbourhood.— 
N.B. The termination rode , so often 
occurring in the names of places in the 
Harz, signifies a spot where roots of 
trees have been grubbed up. 

About 2^ m. below Elbingerode, 
in the gorge of the Bode, close to the 
cheerful village of Bub eland {Inn, 
Goldener Lowe), are the two Caves 
of Baumannshohle in the cliffs on the 
1. bank, and Bielshohle in the preci¬ 
pice on the rt. bank opposite. The 
Baumannshohle has the largest cham¬ 
bers, and is interesting to the geologist, 
because bones of the Great Cave Bear, 
now extinct, have been found in it. 
The Bielshohle has the finest and 
whitest stalactites. They are both 
under the charge of guides residing in 
the village, who receive about 4 gro- 
schen from each person for showing 
them, with something extra for addi¬ 
tional lights. They are scarcely worth 
visiting. A band of local musicians 
is in readiness to awaken the echoes of 
the Baumannshohle. 

From Bubeland (fine limestone rocks 
in the Bodethal), through a large oak 
forest in the Schleifergrund, with pic¬ 
turesque distant views of the plain, on 
approaching 

Blankenhurg (6 m.) {Inn: Wcisser 
Adler, best in the Harz), a town of 
3000 Inhab., belonging to the Duke of 
Brunswick, who has a Palace here, in 
which the Empress Maria Theresa 
spent her early years. It is an un¬ 
gainly building, but the situation and 
view from it are beautiful. The 
best pictures have been removed, 
but there still remains one of the White 
Ladg , who haunts this palace as well 
as that of Berlin, and other royal 
residences in Germany; and two por¬ 
traits, painted by the father of Frederick 
the Great with the point of his finger ! 
one of our King William IV. in his 
midshipman’s dress, and a small col¬ 
lection of old glass and armour. 

Louis XVIII. lived here, 1796-98, 
under the name of Comte de Lille, in 







416 


ROUTE 73. —ROSSTRARRE. THALE. ALEXISBAD. Sect. V. 


perpetual fear of assassination by tbe 
French republicans. 

Omnibus 3 times a-day to Ilalber- 
stadt Stat. 

It takes f of an hr. to walk up to 
the ruined castle of Bernstein, or Re- 
genstein, built by the Empr. Henry the 
Fowler 919. It has many chambers 
excavated in the solid rock. The view 
hence is admired. There is a refreshment 
house, with a dining-room, at Reinstein. 

Blankenburg is but 6 m. distant 
from the Prussian village of Thale, 
near the foot of the 

Rosstrappe. There is a good Inn 
at the Rosstrappe (zur Rosstrappe) 
on the Echhartshohe. The Bode is 
here hemmed in between the Ross¬ 
trappe on its 1. hank and the Witches’ 
Tanzplatz (ball-room) on the rt.; 
two lofty mountains, whose precipitous 
granite cliffs rising on each side give a 
character of the utmost grandeur to 
this gorge or ravine. A steep foot¬ 
path leads from the river-side to the 
top of the Rosstrappe. A carriage 
may ascend half-way, by a circuitous 
road, as far as the Bude (Bothie, 
Scotch), a station where refreshments 
may be had, including a peculiar liquor 
called Birken Wasser (birch-water), 
extracted from the birch. 

The Rosstrappe is a vast precipice 
of granite, isolated on 3 sides, rising 
1380 Eng. ft. above the sea, and 540 
above the Bode, and projecting over 
the valley like a bastion. Its sum¬ 
mit is a platform of rock, 5 or 6 ft. 
square. Its name comes from a mark 
in the rock hearing a distant resem¬ 
blance to a horse’s hoof, and according 
to the traditional story was caused by 
a Princess Brunhilde, who, being pur¬ 
sued by a giant, leaped her horse 
(which had previously been endowed 
with supernatural strength) across the 
gorge to the opposite cliff, where the 
charger, as he alighted, left the dint of 
his footmark. The view into the depths 
below is very grand. A different path 
leads in zigzags down to the river-side. 
The defile here displays a scene of the 
most romantic and gloomy character. 
It is perhaps the wildest and most 
interesting spot in the whole district 
of the Harz. The granite needles 


remind one of the Alps on a small 
scale ; the profusion of beautiful wood 
in the valley of the Bode adds to its 
attractions ; one fine beech called Ko- 
nigsbuche is well worth notice. The 
Waldkater is a good Inn near the foot 
of the Rosstrappe. After threading the 
gorge, by the water-side, back to the 
Blechhiitte, some persons ascend by 
steep steps to the Hezen- Tanzplatz ( Inn) 
(1590 Eng. ft. above the sea-level), 
on the rt. side of the river, from 
which there is a view not inferior to 
that from the Rosstrappe, whose gi¬ 
gantic precipices appear to great ad¬ 
vantage from hence, “ challenged from 
the other side of the narrow rift by 
many no less wild and lofty crags.” 
Higher up the gorge lies the Bode 
1vessel , or caldron, whence the river 
boils up, its sides worn and smoothed 
by the action of the torrent and stones ; 
a very striking scene. The path is 
carried on by the side of the Bode to 
Treseburg (Inns: AVeisser Hirsch ; Wil- 
lielmsblick), a village on a rock sur¬ 
rounded by the Bode. A short tunnel 
leads to the high road. The walk to the 
Rosstrappe from Thale and back to 
Blechhiitte takes up 3 or 4 h. 

In the plain, at a short distance from 
the foot of the Harz, is the Teufels- 
mauer, a gigantic natural wall of sand¬ 
stone lying between Blankenburg and 
Quedlinburg. 

From the Blechhiitte 5 minutes’ 
walk brings you to the Balinhof of the 
Thale-Halberstadt Rly. (7nn; Hotel 
Zehnpfund). 

A cross road from Blechhiitte leads 
to Gernrode, 5 m. off, on the high 
road from Nordhausen to Magdeburg 
(Rte. 74). About 9 m. S. of Gem- 
rode, and about 2 to the W. of the 
post-station of Harzgerode, lies the 
watering-place of Alexisbad , which may 
he adopted as night-quarters, if the 
traveller he going S. (see below). A 
good road leads from Gernrode to Bal- 
lenstadt (/an, Stadt Bemburg, good). 
The Ducal Schloss , on a height, con¬ 
tains a fine collection of pictures. 

If the traveller be bent on making the 
entire tour of the Harz, he may proceed 
from Blankenburg, by Elbingerode, to 
Andrcasberg , at the S. foot of the 



ROUTE 74. —HORDHAUSEK TO MAGDEBURG. 417 


Prussia. 

Brocken, a town of 4100 Inhab., at an 
elevation of 1900 Eng. ft. above tbe sea, 
and interesting only to miners and 
mineralogists. [Inns: Scbutzenbaus 
and Rathskeller.) The silver-mines are 
situated in rocks of clay-slate. Tbe shaft 
of tbe Samson mine is 2333 ft. deep ; tbe 
tilt-hammers, forges, and water-engines 
of Andreasberg are all put in motion 
by tbe supply of water from tbe great 
reservoir under tbe Brocken, called 
Oderteich. Tbe dam which retains 
the water is a construction of granite 
masonry. Tbe distance hence to 
Claustbal is 16 m. 

From Ballenstadt a very bad road, 
but through charming scenery, com¬ 
parable with that of the Trosachs, 
leads to Alexisbad. “A pedestrian 
should go by the Selkethal, to see the 
fine old Castle of Falkenstein. The 
footpath shortens the distance; but, by 
going round to Meisdorf, a road prac¬ 
ticable for light carriages may be fol¬ 
lowed up the Selkethal.”— G. 

Alexisbad. — Inns: Schaum’s H.; Logir- 
haus, containing 60 apartments; Trai- 
teurhaus, with about 30. Alexisbad 
consists of a small group of buildings 
for the accommodation of visitors, 
erected in the romantic valley of the 
Selke (at an elevation of 1166 Eng. ft. 
above the sea), by the Duke of Anhalt- 
Bernburg, after whom it is named. He 
has a small hunting-box, like a Swiss 
cottage. Wooded hills rise on each side, 
and completely hem in the little cluster 
of houses; and nice paths are cut thro ugh 
the woods in all directions. Besides the 
buildings enumerated above, there is a 
bath-house , and a saloon, in which the 
table-d’hote takes place every day ; also 
used as a ball-room, with adjoining 
apartments for gambling, &c. 

Two mineral springs supply water 
for the baths, and for drinking. The 
water is a very strong chalybeate. 
Most of the resources of a German 
watering-place (§ 38) are to be found 
here: but Alexisbad owes its great at¬ 
traction to its agreeable situation, and 
the excursions in its neighbourhood, to 
Magdesprung, Magdetrappe, IvlostQr- 
miihle ; the *Victorshohe, finest views 
in the Harz, &c. See the following 
Route. 


ROUTE 74. 

THE HARZ—NORDHAUSEN TO 
MAGDEBURG. 

14| Pruss. m. = 69 Eng. m. 
Diligence to Quedlinburg. Rail thence 
to Halberstadt and Oschersleben: 4 
trains daily. This road nearly forms 
the E. boundary line of the Harz. 

Nordhausen is in Rte. 67. 

2f Stolberg.— Inns: Weisses Ross ; 
Deutsches Haus. A town of 2000 
Inhab. belonging to the Count Stol¬ 
berg, a mediatised prince, whose terri¬ 
tory is now included in that of Prussia. 
His Castle , on the height above, con¬ 
tains a library, a small armoury, and 
the statue of an idol (Krodo), dug up 
under the walls. Thomas Munzer, 
the fanatic leader of the rebel peasants 
in the 16th cent., was born here, in 
a house still standing near the market¬ 
place. From the Josephshohe , 2 m. 
from Stolberg, in a most picturesque 
situation, surmounted by a Belvedere 
and Inn, a fine view is obtained. 

2~ Harzgerode.— Inns: Weisses 
Ross ; Drei Thiimie. A town of 2400 
Inhab., belonging to the Prince of An- 
halt-Bernburg. About 2 m. to the 
west of Harzgerode lies the watering- 
place of Alexisbad (Rte. 73), where a 
ti'aveller, not pressed for time, may 
spend one or two days very agreeably, 
in exploring the beauties of its neigh¬ 
bourhood. 

About 3 m. N. of Harzgerode our 
road is joined on the 1. by that from 

T 3 





418 ROUTE 74. —quedlinburg. Sect. V, 


Alexisbad o Magdeburg, and crosses 
the river Seiko at the iron-works of 
Magdesprung, consisting of a number 
of iron forges, furnaces, and miners’ 
houses scattered along the banks of the 
river, over a distance of nearly 2 m. 
The situation is very romantic, and 
the distance from hence to Alexisbad 
is about 3 m. On a neighbouring 
height a tall obelisk of cast iron has 
been erected as a monument to a Duke 
of Anhalt. The hill called Magde- 
trappe (Maid’s foot-print) receives its 
name from the legend of a giantess who 
once haunted this district, and, in one 
of her wanderings, leapt over the valley 
from the opposite hill, called Eamberg, 
leaving the marks of her feet upon the 
spot where she alighted. In proof of 
this story, they are still visible in the 
rock ! The summit commands a fine 
view. Leaving Magdesprung, the road 
passes, on the L, the ruined castle of 
Heinrichburg, built by the Counts 
of Stolberg. The Schlosskirche here 
probably dates from 960. 

Gernrode.—See the Church , a very 
curious and ancient Eomanesque one, 
with Choirs at both E. and W. ends, 
and crypts; that under the E. choir 
dates from 960. A curious side chapel 
is covered with bas-reliefs of the 12th 
cent. About 5 m. from this place 
is the Eosstrappe, one of the most in¬ 
teresting points in the Harz (Ete. 73). 
A detour from the road of 2 days 
would suffice to enable a traveller to 
see it and to ascend the Brocken. The 
latter part of the excursion is only 
advisable when the weather is settled. 

Railway from Thale (Ete. 73) by 
Ditfurth Stat. to 

Quedlinburg Stat. ( Inns: Deutsches 
Haus; Schwarzer Bar), a dull coun¬ 
try town, formerly belonging to Saxony, 
now Prussian, of 16,476 Inhab., on the 
Bode. It was originally a free Impe¬ 
rial city of much consequence. Many 
German Emperors of the Saxon line 
resided here in the 13th cent., and 
several councils of the church were 
held in the town. It is still sur¬ 
rounded by turreted walls, and abounds 
in grand and picturesque old houses. 

The Castle , on a rocky eminence above 


the town, was the residence of the 
Abbesses of Quedlinburg, who were 
Princesses of the Empire, independent 
of all spiritual sovereigns save the 
Pope, having a vote in the Diet and a 
seat on the bench of Ehenish bishops. 
They were generally members of royal 
or noble families. The town itself, 
many convents and nunneries, and very 
extensive domains, belonged to the Ab¬ 
bess, and she numbered among her 
vassals many nobles of high rank. At 
the Eeformation the Abbesses adopted 
the Lutheran faith, lost their feudal 
sovereignty and the greatest part of 
their estates, while the number of nuns 
was reduced to 5. The right of pre¬ 
sentation belonged to the King of 
Prussia down to 1802, when the con¬ 
vent was sequestrated. It is now falling 
to decay, stripped of its splendour, and 
in part converted into a school. 

The Schlosskirche is a very curious 
basilica, partly of the 10th cent., for, 
although the upper church dates from 
1129, the choir from 1320, the lower 
or crypt is perhaps the original one 
founded by Henry the Fowler. The 
arabesques on the outside are con¬ 
sidered the oldest works of sculpture 
in N. Germany. The once beautiful 
Aurora Maria, Countess of Konigs- 
mark, who was prioress of the nunnery, 
although mistress of Augustus the 
Strong, King of Saxony, and mother of 
Marshal Saxe, is buried in a vault 
beneath. The sexton does not scruple 
to open her coffin at the demand of the 
curious, and to display a body now 
reduced to the condition of a brown 
mummy. The Emp. Henry I., the Fow¬ 
ler, his Empress Matilda, daughter of 
Otho I., the founder of the nunnery, and 
many abbesses of the monastery, are 
also buried in the lower church or 
“ Old Minster,” in front of the high 
altar. Obs. the Zither in N. transept ; 
the Sacristy, a wonderful treasury of 
media3val art, well worth notice. It 
contains MSS. of the Gospels, relic- 
shrines adorned with bas-reliefs in ivory, 
silver, niello, and precious stones, one 
of them said to be the gift of Henry 
the Fowler; his ivory comb; tapestries 
worked by the nuns (Abbess Agnes, 



Prussia. 


419 


ROUTE 74. —HALBERSTADT. 


1200) ; a water-jar of travertine, said 
to be one of the vessels used at Cana ! 

Outside the town, in a farm-yard, are 
the ruins of the convent of St. Wipertus; 
the crypt of the Romanesque church, 
now a barn, may date from the 10th 
cent. The architect should examine 
this relic ; the arches of the main aisle 
are not circular, but straight-sided, like 
those of the Saxon churches in Eng¬ 
land, and the chapel at Lorsch. 

•The poet Klopstock was born in a 
small house at the foot of the castle 
hill, in the Schlossplatz, recognisable 
by the 2 antique pillars which support 
its porch. A monument has been erected 
to him in the garden called Briihl, W. 
of the town. Here is also one to Karl 
Ritter , the geographer, also born here. 

In the Rathhaus is preserved, 
among other musty curiosities, arms 
and MSS., the oaken cage in 
which the citizens of Quedlinburg im¬ 
prisoned a Count of Reinstein in 1336, 
for nearly 2 years, on account of 
numerous acts of tyranny and oppres¬ 
sive exactions which he had committed 
against them. Not satisfied with this 
barbarous punishment, they were on 
the point of executing him, when the 
emperor demanded that his life should 
be spared, on condition of his paying a 
fine of 3000 dollars, and adding seven 
new towers to the town walls. 

Railway to 

2 Halhcrstadt Stat.— Inns: Hotel 
Royal; Prinz Eugcn. A very an¬ 
cient city of 25,340 Inhab., on an 
arm of the Holzemme, The Bom, 
on a height approached by flights 
of steps* is a very remarkable Gothic 
edifice* chiefly in the pointed style, 
erected between 1235 and 1491, except 
the lower part of the west front, 
which is older (restored 1850). The 
interior is lofty, and marked by elegant 
proportions. The bishop’s throne* rich 
in pointed ornaments, a fine window 
over the altar, the monument of 
Margrave Frederick of Brandenburg 
(1558), the carved work of the Bishop’s 
throne and roodloft (1508), a store¬ 
house of late Gothic ornament, the 
stalls in the choir, old tapestries, 
and an altarpiece by John Raphon, of 


Eimbcck, all deserve notice. In the 
Chapter-house above the cloisters are 
a carved altarpiece and bronze font. 
The Treasury is richer than almost any 
other in North Germany in Gothic art. 
Ohs. an ivory Consular Diptych (4th 
cent.), a MS. of the Gospels—a gift of 
Charlemagne. The collection of epis¬ 
copal and priestly robes, from 12th to 
16th cent., is perhaps the finest in N. 
Europe. 

The Ch. of Unsere Liebe Frau (Our 
Lady), in the Byzantine style (date 
1005-1147), restored and painted 1850, 
has a series of bas-reliefs of that age, 
monuments of bronze, brasses, &c., 
and some wall paintings which are 
curious. There are some richly 
ornamented old timber-framed houses 
on the Markt Platz— Rathskeller (1440) 
and Schulihof (1580). Near the * Rath¬ 
haus (Gothic, of various dates) is a 
Rolandsdule (see Bremen), and opposite 
is the Bischofshof , now turned into a 
custom-house. The best view of the 
town is from the Spiegelsberg, 590 
Eng. ft. above the sea. An excursion 
may be conveniently made from hence 
to the Rosstrappe, in the Harz. 
(Rte. 73.) 

Railway from Halberstadt to Mag¬ 
deburg and Cbthen, by Thale Stat. 

1£ Nienhagen Stat. 

1^ Gr. Oschersleben Stat. 

For the rest of the line to 

Magdeburg, see Rte. 66, 







Sect. VI. 


( 420 ) 


SECTION VI. 


PRUSSIA— 

ROUTE PAGE 

75. Berlin to Stettin, Railway— 

Stettin to Danzig, Road . 420 

76. Stettin to Stralsund and the 

Island of Rugen—the Baths 
of Putbus .423 

77. Berlin to Danzig or Posen, by 

Frankfurt on the Oder— 

Kail. 426 

78. Danzig to Konigsberg, by 

Marienburg — Kail. . . .429 

79. Konigsberg to Memel, by Tilsit 433 

80. Stettin to Danzig, by Brom¬ 

berg ; to Posen and Breslau 
— Railway .434 

81. Berlin to Frankfurt on the Oder 

and Breslau — Railway . 436 

82. Dresden to Breslau— Rail. . 439 


ROUTE 75. 

BERLIN TO STETTIN—RAILWAY ; STET¬ 
TIN TO DANZIG—ROAD. 

Railroad to Stettin, 18 Germ. m. = 
85 Eng. m. 5 trains daily in 2| to 
hrs. 

Terminus outside the Oranienburg 
Gate. The line makes a bend at first, 
passing the village of Louisenbrunnen, 
Pankow, &c., to 

3 Bernau Stat., a town whose inhab. 
defended themselves stoutly against 
the Hussites 1432, and captured some 
of their armour, still preserved in the 
Rathhaus. 

3 Neustadt-Eberswalde Stat.— Inns: 
II. de Prusse; Sonne. A manufac¬ 
turing town, of 3500 Inhab., on the 
Finow canal, which connects the Oder 
with the Havel. There are very ex¬ 


-continued. 

route PAGE 

83. The Riesengebirge, a. — 

Bunzlau to Birschberg, 
Warmbrunn , Schmiedeberg, 
and Landeshut. Excursion 
to Adershack .441 

84. The Riesengebirge, b. — 

Breslau to Schweidnitz , 
Landeshut, Adersbach, and 
by Trautenau to Prague in 
Bohemia.446 

84 a. Dresden to Zittau and 

Reichenberg, by Herrnliut 448 

85. Breslau to Glatz and Prague, 

by the Heuscheuer . . . 449 

85 a. Breslau to Cracow — Rail¬ 

way .450 

85 b. Breslau to Vienna— Railway 451 


tensive paper-mills near this. [Branch 
Rly. 2 Germ. m. E. to Freyenwalde, a 
watering-place on the Oder. ( Inns: 
Konig v. Preussen; Adler.)] 

In the next stage the Finow canal is 
crossed, and (rt.) the sequestered Cis¬ 
tercian Abbey Chorin, a good specimen 
of N. German Gothic, in tolerable pre¬ 
servation, now a tavern, and several 
small lakes, (Paarsteiner See), are passed. 

3 Angermunde Junct. Stat., a very 
old town, with an old high church; 
3000 Inhab. 

llere branches 1. rail to Anclam and 
Stralsund (Rte. 76). 

[2| Germ. m. from this, on the Oder, 
lies Schwedt— (Inn: Deutsches Haus) 
—a town of 4600 Inhab.: many of them 
are descendants of French emigrants, 
and a portion are Jews. The Palace 
was originally the residence of a branch 
of the family of Margraves of Branden¬ 
burg, now extinct. Their summer palace 
Montplaisir lies at the termination of an 











P: 


russia. 


ItOUTE 76 .— STETTIN. SWINEMUNDE. 


avenue 2 m. from the town. One of the 
Margraves and his wife are buried in 
granite coffins in the French Ch .] 

3 Passow Stat. Schnellpost to Stral- 
sund (ltte. 76). 

[3J Germ. m. NAY. of Passow is 
Brenzlow {Inns. H. dc Prusse; Deuts¬ 
ches Ilaus), on the N. end of the Lake 
called Ucker See, a town of 13,000 In¬ 
hat)., formerly capital of the Uckermark. 
The Mcirienkirche (1325-40) is one of 
the most remarkable brick buildings of 
N. Germany. Ohs. the E. gable of open 
tracery formed of clay baked and glazed. 
The organ is said to rival that of 
Haarlem.] 

3 Tantow Stat. The railway car¬ 
ried partly on embankments along the 
valleys of the Randow and "VVelse. On 
the rt. views are obtained of the lake of 
Damm , formed by the Oder spreading 
out into a broad sheet of water behind 
it. The railway is carried through the 
fortifications to reach the terminus at 

3 Stettin Stat., on the Oder Quay 
{Inns: H. de Prusse, in the Louisen 
Strasse; Drei Kronen), a flourishing 
town, where there is little to see; 
it is the capital of Pomerania, upon 
the bank of the Oder, but con¬ 
nected by 4 bridges within the suburb 
Lastadie on the rt. bank. It has 
73,700 Inhab., excluding the garrison, 
and is remarkable as a 1st class fortress 
and the chief commercial port of Prussia, 
being the outlet for the manufactures of 
Silesia conveyed down the Oder from 
Frankfurt and Breslau, and the depot 
for foreign goods required to supply 
that province as well as the metropolis 
of Prussia. The value of the annual 
imports is 5,000,000/. and exports 
8,400,000/. About 2000 vessels enter 
the port yearly, and 200 belong to it. 
The Schloss Kirche contains the tombs 
of the old Dukes of Pomerania, a carved 
wooden monument of Duke Bogislaus. 
The Schloss , built 1577, official resi¬ 
dence of the Ober-President of Po¬ 
merania, and in part converted into 
government offices, was the residence 
of the Dukes of Pomerania, who died 
out 1637. At the Peace of Westphalia 
Stettin was given over to Sweden, and 


421 

by that of Stockholm, 1720, transferred 
to Prussia. Fine view from the Trap- 
penthurm of the Schloss. The Rathhaus 
dates from 1245. In the Konigsplatz 
is a marble statue of Frederick the Great , 
by Schadow. Since 1854 a new town 
(Neustadt) has sprung up within the 
fortifications, with fine broad streets, 
containing several handsome public 
buildings : the Artillery Barracks , a 
Prison, and Johanneskloster (a kind of 
almshouse^), the Friedrich Wilhelm's 
School. Two Empresses of Russia were 
born here—Catherine the Great (1729), 
and Maria Feodorowna, wife of the 
Empr. Paul (1759). There is a hand¬ 
some new Borse and a Theatre here. 
The best view of the town is from the 
Militair-Friedhof , not far from the Rly. 
Stat. 

An English Consul resides at Stettin. 

The Oder, after flowing past Stettin, 
in four branches, discharges itself into 
a large lake called the Haff: this again 
communicates with the Baltic by 3 
mouths, which form the 2 large islands, 
Usedom, on which lies Swinemunde, 
and Wollin. 

Steamers once a week to Copenhagen 
in 22 hrs.;—twice a-week to Memcl, 
Konigsberg, St. Petersburg, in 3 days; 
to Putbus in Riigen (Rte. 7 6). Steamers 
daily in summer, in 4 hrs. to 

Swinemunde.—Inns: Drei Kronen; II. 
de Prusse. This town, of 6800 Inhab., 
has latterly acquired importance from 
the improvements made in its harbour, 
which have rendered it the outport of 
Stettin. The entrance to it is unluckily 
very shallow, but extensive moles and 
works have been erected, and dredging 
machines are constantly employed in 
deepening the bed of the Oder to re¬ 
medy this defect, and it is now capable 
of admitting vessels drawing 18 or 19 
ft. water to unload their cargoes, and in 
securing a depth of 12 to 16 ft. even 
up as far as Stettin. Swinemunde 
stands on the shores of the Baltic, upon 
an island between it and the salt lake 
called Stettiner Half, separated from 
the main land by the Swine and other 
mouths or channels through which the 
Oder empties itself into the sea. 

About m. from the town, and 






422 


Sect. VI. 


ROUTE 75. —STETTIN TO DANZIG. 


separated from it by a wood, lie the 
Sea Baths of Swinemiinde, consisting of 
a Bath-house and an Assembly-room 
(Gesellschaftshaus), in which there is 
a daily table-d’hote, dinner at 1. 
Visitors usually lodge at the inns in 
the town. 

Distinct spots, separated hy consider¬ 
able intervals, are marked out on the 
sea-shore as bathing-places for ladies 
and gentlemen. At the one extremity 
men are allowed to hathe without bath¬ 
ing-machines or covered cabinets; at 
the opposite end the females enjoy the 
same privileges; and between these re¬ 
mote spots are ranged bathing-machines 
for either sex. 

At a very early period, the Vends 
(Wenden), a Slavonic tribe occupying 
the whole of the southern coast of the 
Baltic from the Elbe to Esthonia, had 
a seaport called Julin (Jumneta) in the 
island of AVollin, at the mouth of the 
Oder. It is described by chroniclers 
as the greatest commercial city of 
Europe in the 11th cent. Near it was 
Jomsburg, the stronghold of Palnatoki, 
a celebrated Scandinavian sea-rover 
and chief of a kind of piratical republic 
which he founded here at the latter 
end of the 10th cent. 

From the hill called Streckelberg, 
about 14 m. N.W. of Swinemiinde, 
there is a very fine view. 

It was upon this island of Usedom, 
June 24, 1630, that the Champion 
of Protestantism, Gustavus Adolphus, 
landed with an army of 17,000 Swedes. 
As soon as he reached the shore, he 
fell on his knees, and, after a short 
prayer in sight of his soldiers, directed 
them to entrench themselves, seizing a 
spade with his own hand to show them 
the example. "When tidings of this 
event were brought to the Emperor 
Ferdinand, he made light of the mat¬ 
ter, sarcastically terming the Swedish 
leader “ a snow-king, who would melt 
as the summer drew near, and as he 
advanced towards a more southern 
climate.” The following year 6000 
English volunteers (amongst whom must 
have been Dugald Dalgetty) arrived 
on this spot to reinforce Gustavus. 


by the rly. from Stettin to Danzig 
(trains in about 4 hrs. to Koslin) 
must proceed along the Posen Ply-, 
crossing the low lands formed by the 
deposits of the branches of the Oder, 
by Damm Stat., a fortress; 

Carolinenhorst Stat.; as far as to 

Stargard Junct. Stat. (Inn, Prinz 
von Preussen), chief town of Further 
Pomerania (Pop. 16,000), on the Ihna, 
surrounded by old walls. It has a 
very fine ch., the Marienkirche , Gothic 
of 14th and 15th centy., and a Bathhaus 
of 16th centy. 

Here the Pomeranian Rlv. turns E. 
by Freienwalde, Lubes, Schievelbem. 

Belgard Junct. Stat. [Hence a 
branch line diverges to Colberg or 
Kolberg (Inn, Konig von Preussen), 
a fortress bravely defended against 
the French in 1806-7, close to the 
sea. The modern Bathhaus , built by 
Zwirner, the restorer of the Dom of 
Cologne, and the Marienkirche , a 5-aisled 
church of 14th cent., Gothic, with its 
roodloft, bronze 7'•branched candelabrum 
(1327), its font , a basin borne on the 
backs of 4 lions, and surrounded by 
reliefs, and chandelier of richly carved 
wood (1523), the roof covered with 
paintings, merit notice.] 

3'f Koslin Stat. (Inn: Diirre’s IL), 
4 m. from the Baltic, the largest town 
on the road. Pop. 10,000. At Vertzin 
is the paternal mansion and domain 
of Count Bismark, prime minister of 
Prussia. 

Koslin to Danzig, posfrroad, 26^ 
Germ, mu Schnellpost daily in 22 hrs. 

2i Pankenin. 

2j Schlawe. 

3£ Stolpe. Inns: Miiller’s; Mundt*s. 
(1500 Inhab.) In the Schlosskirche is 
a marhle monument to the Duchess 
Anne de Croy, and her son (1781). 

3£ Poganitz. 

3^ Lauenburg. (H. de Prusse.) 

2 Klein-Ankerholz. 

2-J Neustadt. Adlerhorst , wooded 
promontory. 

3| Katz, on the Baltic] 
shore. Convent of Oliva, [in Pte. 80. 
2^ Danzig. I 


Stettin to Danzig. Those who travel 




Prussia. route 76. —stettin to stralsund. 


ROUTE 76. 

STETTIN TO STRALSUND AND THE ISLAND 
OF RiiGEN—THE BATHS OF TUTBUS. 

Riigen, the largest island belonging to 
Germany, is situated in the Baltic, sepa¬ 
rated only by the narrow strait of Gel- 
len, or Strela-sund from Prussian Pome¬ 
rania, in which province it is included. 
It abounds in romantic scenery, on ac¬ 
count of which, and of the advantages 
of sea-bathing which it affords, it is 
frequented in summer by visitors from 
all parts of Northern Germany. It 
may be termed a German Isle of Wight, 
and indeed bears some resemblance 
to the English island in the conforma¬ 
tion of its lofty chalk-cliffs, though it 
is better wooded, and is further dis¬ 
tinguished by the narrow bays or bights 
which penetrate far inland. 

Steamers from Stettin to Swinemiinde 
daily in 4 hrs.; —in summer from Greifs- 
wald to Putbus, in 5 to 6 hrs., 3 or 4 
times a week. Steamer daily (except 
Sunday), in summer, from Stralsund, 
skirts round the W. coast of Riigen, 
into the Jasmunder Bodden, and 
touches at Ralswiel, 2 m. from Bergen, 
Railway , Berlin, 6 to 7 hrs. to Stral¬ 
sund, 2 trains daily, by Lbcknitz Stat. 

Pasewalk Junct. Stat. An old town, 
retaining its walls, towers, and gates. 
The Marienkirche is of brick. Here the 
Illy, from. Berlin falls in. Passing the 
fine Rothmiiller Wald, to 

Anclam Stat. (Inns: Goldene Traube, 
good; Bohmer’s Hotel), a small port of 
12,200 Inhab., on the Peine. The Stein 
Thor is a picturesque gate tower of brick, 
and a group of houses in the square are 
good specimens of the peculiar style o 
the Hanseatic architecture. The churches , 


423 

St. Mary and St. Nicholas, also brick, 
are large and curious. 

Greifsivald Stat. (Inn: Deutsches 
Haus), a venerable seaport town of 
17,380 Inhab., founded in the 13th 
cent., has the streets set at right 
angles, and many brick houses ; three 
in the great square or markt-platz arc 
the best examples of the 14th and 15th 
cents. The churches also merit notice, 
especially the Marienkirche . The Uni¬ 
versity, founded 1456, numbers about 
300 students. 

There are 2 Ferries across the Strait 
separating Riigen from the mainland:— 
1st. From Stahlbrode, about 12 m. W. of 
Greifswald, called Glewitzer Fahre. At 
Glewitz, the landing-place (2| Germ, 
m.), conveyances may usually be hired 
to Putbus, 2| Germ, m., by Garz. 
2nd. From Stralsund by the Alte Fahre, 
a shorter and safer passage in stormy 
weather, the strait not being more than 
a mile broad here; the other ferry is 2 m. 

Stralsund Stat. (Inns, Lowe (Lion), 
in the Alt Markt; H. de Brandeburg), 
an interesting and nearly unaltered 
town and fortress, 27,600 Inhab., was, 
in the 14th cent., a chief town of the 
Hansa; in 1648, by the peace of West¬ 
phalia, it became capital of Swedish 
Pomerania. It was ceded to Prussia 
in 1815. It is entirely surrounded 
by water, and approachable from the 
S. only by 3 bridges, connecting it 
with the Knieper-, Triebsee-, and 
Franken-Suburbs. The Strela-sund, a 
strait 2 m. broad, separates Stralsund 
from the isle of Riigen. Steamers 
every hr. in 10 min. About a gun¬ 
shot from the shore is the circular island 
Danholm, occupied by fishermen and 
sailors, reminding one of Holland by 
its clean houses, gardens, &c. 

The Nicolai Kirche (1311), and the 
Mdrien Kirche (15th cent.), both of 
brick, are handsome edifices, in the 
style of the churches of Liibeck. In 
St. Nicolas, obs. a fine brass of the 
Proconsul Albert Hovener (1357), a 
richly carved altarpiece enclosing a 
painting of the Crucifixion, and the 
monument of ZacheryRotmann (1673). 
The lofty tower of the Jacobikircho 
is one of the best preserved bits of 
brick architecture on the Baltic. The 






424 


ROUTE 76.— STRALSUND. RUTBUS. Sect. VI. 


view from the towers is remarkable. 
The Rathhaus , a fine edifice surmounted 
by 7 pinnacles, was built 1316, but has 
suffered much from modern restora¬ 
tions. Near the Frankenthor, built 
into a wall, is shown the stone on 
which the indefatigable Charles XII. 
was found, by the sentinel on duty 
outside the walls, fast asleep, before 
the gate, on his return from Bender. 
Schill, the brave but imprudent soldier 
who took up anus in 1808, in the 
hope of freeing Germany from the 
French, was shot in attempting a sortie, 
in the Fahrstrasse: a stone in the 
pavement marks the spot. The public 
fountain is named after him, Schills- 
brunnen. A simple plate of iron, with¬ 
out his name, bearing the inscription 
“ Magna voluisse magnum,” marks the 
spot, in the Knieper Burial-ground,'where 
the remains of that brave soldier, robbed 
of the head, are interred. The head, 
long preserved in spirits at Leyden, has 
been removed to Brunswick. 

The Johannishof was once a Beguin- 
age like those at Bruges and Ghent; 
it is now a hospital for poor persons. 

During the Thirty Years’ War (1628) 
Stralsund was the place which first 
checked the career of the previously ir¬ 
resistible Wallenstein. He had sworn 
to take Stralsund, “ even though it were 
fastened by chains to heaven,” vowing 
vengeance upon the child unborn when 
he should gain possession. This impi¬ 
ous boast, however, was not destined to 
be fulfilled, for through the brave de¬ 
fence of its citizens, aided by a party of 
Scotch mercenaries in the pay of Den¬ 
mark, he was at last compelled to raise 
the siege, after a loss of 12,000 men be¬ 
fore its walls. In 1715 the town was 
besieged by the allied army of the Prus¬ 
sians, Danes, and Saxons. Charles XII., 
then recently escaped from Turkey, con¬ 
ducted the defence for a considerable 
time. At length he was obliged to retire, 
and the town surrendered to Denmark. 
Steamers to Malmoe 3 times a week, 
in 8 or 10 hrs. Thence rail to Stock¬ 
holm by Jonkoping. {Handbook for 
Sweden.) 

Rail to Berlin and Stettin ; Eilvoagen 
to Rostock. 

In going from Stralsund to Putbus 


the Old Ferry is crossed by steamer in 
10 min. 

21 Garz. Busch’s Inn. 

11 Putbus — Inns: Furstenhof, best; 
Bellevue; Hotel du Nord, nearer the 
sea, good and not dear. A bed-room costs 
20 S.gr.; dinner, 12£ S. gr. Putbus is 
a watering-place with 700 permanent 
Inhab., belonging to the Prince of Put¬ 
bus, a very wealthy nobleman, said to 
be the lineal descendant of the ancient 
Kings of Riigen. His Palace (Schloss), 
a handsome Italian edifice and the 
principal building in the place, was 
burned 1865, with its library, some 
good paintings and statues (by Thor- 
voaldsen ), and a collection of antiqui¬ 
ties found in the island. It has been 
rebuilt. Adjoining the Palace is the 
Kursaal or diningroom, where there is 
a daily table-d’hote, and the Pavilion , 
containing assembly and music rooms 
for the use of the visitors ; and the 
Theatre. Attached to the palace is a 
Park , with gardens and pleasure- 
grounds open to the public. As a 
watering-place, Putbus has fallen off 
since the death of the late Prince. 

2£ m. from Putbus, on the sea-shore, 
is the Badhaus , supplied with warm sea- 
baths. It furnishes board and lodg¬ 
ings at moderate rates. There are also 
bathing-machines for those who prefer 
the open sea. The season is over by 
the middle of September, when the 
baths are shut up. 

The great attraction of Putbus is its 
beautiful situation near the borders of 
a bay with the island Vilm in front. 
High wooded banks and long indented 
promontories shelter it from the Baltic. 
On one of these is a statue of the Great 
Elector, who drove the Swedes out of 
Riigen, 1678. Putbus is the best 
head-quarters for those who intend to 
explore the island. All charges are 
fixed by printed tariff. 

The Prince’s agent lets out horses and 
carriages for hire. 

The Steamer from Swinemiinde lands 
its passengers on the boat-pier at Lau- 
terbach, 2 m. from the Baths. Passen¬ 
gers arriving by the boat, and intend¬ 
ing to return by it, had better hire for 1 
or 2 days one of the carriages waiting 
on the spot, set out at once on the ex- 




Prussia. route 76.—rugen. 

cursion round the island, and leave 
Putbus till their return. 

The most interesting objects in Riigen 
are Stubbenkammer and Arkona, nearly 
18 m. apart, and the same distance from 
Putbus, and the country between them 
is comparatively tame. 

The following sketch of a tour round 
the Island includes all the most remark¬ 
able objects, starting from Putbus to the 

1^ Jagdschloss ( Inn in summer), a 
handsome hunting-lodge built by Schin- 
kel for Prince Putbus, commanding a 
delightful view. Thence over the hills 
called 

Prora, on the narrow isthmus called 
the schmale Heide, which unites the 
promontory Jasmund to the main 
island—to 

Sagard — Inn, Fiirstenkrone. Near 
this is the Tumulus of Dubberworth, 
30 ft. high. 

The N. extremity of the island Ru¬ 
gen consists of a long narrow peninsula, 
or rather of 2 peninsulas—that of Jas- 
mund, and beyond it that of Wittow— 
connected with each other and the main 
island by 2 narrow necks of land. The 
length of this united promontory is 
about 25 m. The bay or firth which it 
encloses is crossed by one or two ferries, 
at which carnages and foot passengers 
can be transferred from one side to the 
other, thus avoiding the necessity of 
retracing the same road in returning 
from Arkona. 

Beyond Sagard the road enters the 
ancient beech wood of Stubbenitz. Here 
the goddess Hertha was worshipped by 
the Pagan Saxons; within it is the 
Hcrthaburg , a rampart of earth 50 ft. 
high. It abounds in stone sepulchres, 
called Hiinengraber, in which skele¬ 
tons and jars full of bones and ashes 
have been found. The whole district 
is likewise celebrated in Scandinavian 
poetry and mythology. Buried in the 
recesses of this mysterious grove lies 
the Hertha See, called the Black Lake , 
from the dark shadows of the beech 
woods around. Tacitus (Germ. c. 40) 
describes an untrodden wood (castum 
nemus) in which the car of the goddess 
Hertha was kept, drawn by cows and 
washed in a secret lake. It is still looked 


STUBBENKAMMER. 425 

upon with veneration by the inhabitants. 
It is about 300 paces long, and 48 ft. 
deep in the centre. These localities, 
and various ancient remains existing 
upon the island, such as tumuli and 
cromlechs, possess additional interest, if 
we regard them as the relics of a nation 
by whom Rome was overthrown after 
an existence of 12 centuries. Odoacer, 
who finally captured the Imperial city, 
was king of the Riigii, and the cradle of 
the barbarian hordes who formed his 
army was this remote and insignificant 
island, and the neighbouring coast of 
Pomerania. 

Less than a mile from the Hertha 
See and the wood of Stubbenitz, is 
the foreland of the Stubbenkammer , a 
chalk cliff, 440 ft. high, rising out of the 
sea, somewhat like Shakspeare’s Cliff at 
Dover. A large Inn , with 80 beds, has 
been built at Stubbenkammer, on the 
verge of the forest. A staircase of 600 
steps cut in the rock leads from the shore 
to the highest summit, called KdnigsstuhL 
Hither travellers repair to see the sun 
rise and set, and to enjoy the view. On 
the "NY. the promontory of Arkona, the 
most northern point of Riigen, stretches 
far out into the sea. The grandest 
view of the cliff is from below. 

The Stubbenkammer is about 18 m. 
from Putbus, and 15 m. from Bergen. 

At Quoltitz is the Stone of Sacrifice, 
a rude block traversed by a groove or 
channel, to collect, it is conjectured, 
the blood of human victims. Spieker, 
a country-seat of Prince Putbus, is a 
fanciful castle, built by Baron Wrangel, 
after the Thirty Years’ War. 

The way from Stubbenkammer to 
Arkona lies along another narrow 
tongue of land, called Die Schabe, 
which unites the promontory Jasmund 
to that of Wittow. At the village of 
Altenkirchen (Haas’s Inn), the poet 
Kosegarten, who was its pastor, is 
buried. For 8 successive Sundays, 
during the season of the herring fishery, 
the minister preaches upon the shore to 
the fishermen assembled around him in 
their boats, from the neighbouring is¬ 
lands. A figure, said to be of the idol 
Swantewit, is built into the wall of the 
Church , of 12th cent., one of the oldest 
in Pomerania. 




426 


Sect. VI. 


ROUTE 77. —BERLIN TO DANZIG OR POSEN. 


4 Arkona , the most northern promon¬ 
tory of the island, partly a chalk cliff, 
173 ft. above the sea, is surmounted by 
a lighthouse, which furnishes accom¬ 
modation to travellers. The view from it 
extends over the coast of the promontory 
Jasmund to the island Hiddensoe, and 
to the more distant Danish island Moen. 

Upon Arkona stood the ancient For¬ 
tress of the Vends, who at one period 
inhabited this island, called Burgring. 
It was a circular entrenchment, from 
30 to 40 yards high, with an opening to 
the N.W. Within it stood the temple 
of the 4-headed god Swantevit, destroy¬ 
ed by the Danes under King Waldemar, 
who took it by storm 1168, carried off 
its treasures to Denmark, and introduced 
Christianity into the island. Saxo 
Grammaticus, the historian, was present 
at the capture. 

Travellers must now either return by 
Altenkirchen and Wiek to the Wittow 
Ferry, and, after crossing it, proceed 
direct to 

5^ Bergen, or they may prolong their 
tour by taking boat and making an ex¬ 
cursion to the neighbouring island Hid- 
densoe , whose inhabitants, a poor and 
primitive race, not much raised above 
the condition of Esquimaux, live chiefly 
in turf-covered huts, and support them¬ 
selves by fishing. Many of them spend 
their whole lives on the spot, and never 
set foot even on Kiigen. There is not 
a bush on the whole island. For fuel 
the people have recourse to peat or cow- 
dung; yet, -with so few attractions, the 
island is said to be dear to its children, 
who call it “ dat sotelanne,” the sweet 
little land. 

Bergen ( Inns: * Prinz von Prcussen; 
Adler) is the chief town in Biigen, and 
has 3700 Inhab. To the N. of it rises 
the hill of Bugard, the highest in Biigen, 
surmounted by the ruins of the ancient 
fortress, destroyed 1316. From this 
spot the whole island, with its deeply 
indented shores, may be surveyed as a 
map laid open at the spectator’s feet. 

The distance hence to Stralsund is 
about 16m., including the ferry. Schnell- 
post twice a-day. From Bergen to 
Putbus is 6 m. 


Plan for an excursion of 1 day round 
Biigen, starting from Putbus : to the 
Jagdschloss, Schmaeler See, Prora, and 
the Schanzcnberg, by Lanken and the 
new wood-road to Stubbenkammer 
return by Sagard, the Jasmund ferry, 
and Bergen, to Putbus. Distance about 
45 m. 


BOUTE 77. 

BERLIN TO DANZIG OR ROSEN, BY 

FRANKFURT ON TIIE ODER.—RAIL. 

270 Eng. m. Eastern Bailway (Ost- 
bahn); 2 trains daily, in 85 hrs. (ex¬ 
press 1\ hrs.) to Posen; 13j hrs. to 
Danzig. The route, as far as 

Frankfurt on the Oder Junct. Stat. 
is described Bte. 81. The country is 
uninteresting. 

Podelzig Stat. 

Ciistrin Stat. {Inns : Kronprinz ; 
Adler). A strong fortress and town of 
10,000 Inhab., surrounded by marshes, 
at the junction of the Warthe with 
the Oder, over which a bridge 875 ft. 
long is thrown. Frederick the Great 
was confined in the old castle by his 
imperious and crazy father, and com¬ 
pelled to look on while his friend Katte 
was executed on the ramparts. 6 m. 
N. of Kiistrin is the village of Zorndorf, 
where Frederick the Great, with 30,000 
Prussians, defeated 50,000 Bussians, 
under Fermor, in 1758. A monument 
marks the spot where the king stood. 
The road runs nearly parallel with the 
Warthe. 

Landsberg Stat. Inns: Konig v. 
Preussen; BahnhofBest. A flourishing 
small town, of 18,340 Inhab. 

Driesen Stat. 

Kreutz Junct. Stat. Buffet. Here the 
Bly. from Stettin to Posen and Breslau 
(Bte. 80) crosses that from Berlin to 
Danzig and Konigsberg. 

Filehnc Stat. 





Prussia. 


ROUTE 77. —DANZIG. CATHEDRAL. 


427 


Schbnlanke Stat., on the river 
Netze. 

Schneidemiihl Stat. (Fun: Goldener 
Lowe.) 

Miasteckzo Stat., through sand hills 
and fir woods. 

Bialoslimc Stat. 

Ossiek Stat. (Wirsitz is near this). 

3T Nakel Stat.— Inn, the Post. A 
town of 2000 Inhab. on the NetzeJ 

4 Bromberg Junct. Stat.—Inns : H. 
Moritz; Rios H. A town of 24,500 
Inhab., on the Brahe, without interest 
to the traveller. It owes its prosperity 
to the canal made by Frederick the 
Great, to whom a statue is erected. 

[From Bromberg a Big. runs to "War¬ 
saw by Thorn , 31 m. S. E., on the Vis¬ 
tula, the birthplace of Copernicus, to 
whom a bronze statue was erected 
1853.] The railway to Danzic is car¬ 
ried down the valley of the Vistula, 
but at some distance from it, through 
places of slight importance. 

Kotomiers Stat. 

Terespol Stat. 

[Near this is the ancient town of 
Schwetz, containing an old Ch., a lofty 
watch-tower, and the modern lunatic 
asylum for W. Prussia—a vast edifice.] 

Laskowice ) 

Warlubin I Stats, in the valley 

Czerwinsk l of the Vistula. 
Pelplin J 

[On the rt. bank of the Vistula lie 
Culm (Inn: Schwarzer Adler) a town 
of 5600 Inhab. (truffles abound here), 
and the strong fortress of Graudenz, 
with 9000 Inhab. It was not yielded 
up to the French.] 

4 Dirschau Junction Stat. Inn: 
Kronprinz. Here the branch line to 
Danzig diverges 1. out of the rly. 
to Marienburg and Konigsberg. Rly. 
bridge over the Vistula ^ m. long. 
(Rte. 78.) Crossing ditches and walls 
of the fortifications, you reach 

H Danzig Terminus , on the Speicher- 
Insel, near the Stone Sluice Gates , by 
closing which the country can be laid 
under water. 

Danzig (in Polish, Gdansk). Inns 
(none very good): Englisches Haus, the 
old Hall of the English Merchants 
of the Staple, best; H. de Berlin, near 
the Rly.; H. de Thorn. Danzig, one of 


the oldest cities in Prussia, “ the Nu¬ 
remberg of the North,” abounding in 
picturesque old buildings, is situated 
near the 1. bank of the W. arm of the 
Vistula, or Weichsel, about 5 m. above 
its influx into the sea. It is tra¬ 
versed by 2 tributaries of that river, the 
Motlau and Radaune, and has 90,400 
Inhab. (13,500 Rom. Cath.). It is 
a fortress of the first class, and the 
principal seaport of Piussia. It was 
anciently a leading member of the Han¬ 
seatic League, and a free city. It is 
still a place of great commerce, espe¬ 
cially in wheat brought down the Vis¬ 
tula from Poland, and other corn-pro¬ 
ducing countries, and shipped from hence 
to all parts of Europe. The exports of 
wheat are greater than from any other 
port in the world. Here are extensive 
distilleries of brandy, which hence gets 
the name of Danzig. The granaries, of 
enormous dimensions, capable of hold¬ 
ing 500,000 quarters of corn, are situ¬ 
ated on an island called Speicher Insel. 
To avoid the risk of conflagration, 
no lights or fire are ever admitted. 
The timber trade is also very con¬ 
siderable. The great depot for it is in 
the Langgarten , to the E. of the Speicher 
Insel. Amber is exported chiefly hence. 

The * Cathedral (or Marienkirche), 
begun in 1343, by a grand master of 
the Teutonic knights, but not finished 
till 1503, is one of the finest churches 
on the Baltic; it is of brick, and 
358 ft. long. The vaulted roof, sup¬ 
ported by 26 slender brick pillars, is 
98 ft. above the pavement. Around the 
interior are 50 chapels, originally found¬ 
ed by the chief citizens as burial-places 
for themselves and their families. It 
possesses a brass font, cast in 1554, 
in the Netherlands, and an astronomical 
clock, which has long ceased to move. 
The great ornament of the Dom 
is the celebrated Last Judgment, attri¬ 
buted to J. Memling (see Kugler, \ xvii., 
note by Sir E. Head); the inside by 
Memling; the exterior portraits by van 
der Goes, a pupil of Van Eyck, knoivn 
as the Danzig Picture. It was painted, 
according to tradition, for the Pope, 
and while on its way from Bruges to 
Rome was intercepted by pirates, but 
was retaken by a Danzig vessel and 






428 


Sect. VI. 


ROUTE 77.—DANZIG. LANGGASSE. HISTORY. 


deposited in the Cathedral, where it 
remained till 1807, when the French 
transported it to Paris. “ On its re¬ 
turn, after the war, the King of Prussia 
was very anxious to retain it at Berlin, 
and offered 40,000 dollars as a com¬ 
pensation, hut yielded to the press¬ 
ing instances of the rightful owners 
for its restoration.” The picture 
bears about it the date 1467. A cru¬ 
cifix, , carved on wood in a very ad¬ 
mirable style of art, and with great 
truth of expression, is the second curi¬ 
osity of this eh. It has been here since 
the middle of the 15th cent., but the 
artist’s name is unknown. Three mo¬ 
dern painted windows were given by 
the King of Prussia, 1843-45. In a side 
chapel the poet Martin Opitz is buried 
(d. 1639). The Ch. of St. Katherine has 
chimes in its steeple. 

Trinity Church , of red brick, has a 
richly ornamented gable, date 1514, 
which merits attention. 

The glory of Danzig is the Langgasse; 
the principal street, intersecting it from 
E. to AV., and prolonged into the Lange 
Markt, or Long Market , which abounds 
in antique buildings of splendid and 
fantastic architecture, mostly from the 
16th to 18th cents., many of the carv¬ 
ings and ornaments having been brought 
from Venice and Portugal. At its \V. 
end rises the Hohe Thor , a stately brick 
tower, built 1588, as an entrance into 
the town, with an additional gate at 
one side (date 1612). At theE. end the 
street terminates with the Griine Thor , 
leading to a quay enlivened with 
booths, groups of sailors, &c., the busiest 
scene in Danzig. The most consider¬ 
able building in the Langemarkt is 
the *Lathhaus, erected in the 14th cent., 
with a slim and elegant tower, added 
1556. See the interior—the llemter 
and Picture Gallery. Not far from it 
is a Fountain , with figures of Neptune 
drawn by sea-horses, probably by some 
Augsburg artist of the 17 th cent.—very 
good as a work of art. Behind it stands 
the 

*Artus, or Junker Hof (the chief mer¬ 
chants in the middle ages were here 
styled Junkers), erected about the middle 
of the 16th cent. On the facade (altered 


in recent times) are medallion heads 
of the Empr. Charles V. and Don John 
of Austria, above allegorical figures. In 
its great hall, now the Exchange , the 
vaulted roof of which is supported . by 
4 slender pillars of granite, the guilds 
and corporations formerly met. Their 
laws, in rhyme , are still hung up in it; 
and its walls are further decorated with 
the most singular carvings, old armour, 
and pictures; one is a representation 
of the Church under the form of a ship, 
sailing to heaven full of monks, who 
are throwing out ropes, hooks, &c., to 
haul on board a few miserable sinners. 
Ofrs.Actseon and his dogs, a combination 
of painting, relief, and stags’ horns ! 
Procession of knights and soldiers on 
the march; also 2 pictures by Danzig 
artists, a Last Judgment, by A. Muller , 
a pupil of Raphael, 1601, and a Ma¬ 
donna and Christ, by Andreas Stech. 
In the Laths-keller, under the Artus 
Hof, is a restaurant. There is a theatre. 

A British consul resides here. One 
quarter of the town is called Schott- 
land, from a colony of Scotch weavers 
who settled here in the 14th cent. 

By means of the gigantic sh«ce-gates 
(Stein Schleuse), near the My. Stat., the 
country around three sides of the town 
can be laid under water, so as to contri¬ 
bute materially to its defence from an 
hostile attack. The key of the position 
is the Holm , an island formed by 2 arms 
of the Vistula, N. of the town. There 
are besides strong external forts , the 
Hagelsberg and the Bischofsberg; the 
last has been greatly strengthened, and 
completely commands the town on the 
W. side. 

Fahrenheitthe optician, who invented 
the thermometer named, after him, was 
born here. 

History. —"When the rule of the Teu¬ 
tonic Order ceased in the 15th cent., 
Danzig became a free city, 1454, under 
the protection of the Kings of Poland. 
From the 2nd partition of Poland (1793) 
to the Peace of Tilsit the city fell under 
Prussian rule. Marshal Lefebvre, Na¬ 
poleon’s general, was created by him 
Duke of Danzig, in consequence of his 
having taken the town in 1807. At the 
peace of Paris it was yielded back to 






Prussia. 


ROUTE 78. —DANZIG TO KONIGSBERG. 


429 


the Prussians after an obstinate resist¬ 
ance, maintained by the French under 
General Rapp for many months, in 
1813, until the town was reduced, by 
famine and pestilence, to the lowest 
depth of distress. 

Amber-ware may he purchased of 
Iloffman, Altstadter Graben, and Jan- 
zen, Heilig-Geist-Thor. 

The port of Danzig is Neufahrwasser , 
at the mouth of the "W. arm of the 
Vistula. In 1841 an Ice-hurst on the 
Vistula forced a new passage for the 
river to the sea near Neufahr. It is 
defended by the foit, Weichselmiinde; 
has a lighthouse and an extensive pier 
at the entrance of the channel. Steam¬ 
boats thither every hour, daily, except 
Sundays. Schnellposts to Coslin. 

Railways —to Stettin, by Stargard; 
to Berlin, by Bromberg; to Konigs- 
berg. Rte. 78. 

Excursions. —An avenue leads from 
the Olivaer-Thor, in m. N.AV., to the 
Johannisberg , from whose top, 311 ft. 
above the sea, is a very fine view over 
Danzig, the Baltic, the tongue of land 
called Hela, at whose extremity rises 
the lighthouse. 3 m. further, at the 
foot of the Carlsberg (which also com¬ 
mands a fine view), stands the Convent 
of Oliva (suppressed in 1829.) The 
Church is a stately edifice (date 1581). 
Around the choir hang portraits of 6 
Kings of Poland and 5 of Dukes of Po¬ 
merania. The refectory is supported by 
3 granite pillars. In the Friedenssaal, 
near the cloisters the treaty of peace 
between Sweden and Poland was signed 
1660. The Abbot’s Castle now belongs 
to the Queen of Prussia, and has fine 
grounds. The sandy downs are clothed 
with rich beech woods. 


ROUTE 78. 

DANZIG TO KONIGSBERG, BY MARIEN- 
BURG—RAILWAY. 

24 Pruss. m. = 1134 Eng. m. 

Railway begun 1855, finished by com¬ 
pletion of tho Vistula bridges, 1857. 

Praust Stat. 

Hohenstein Stat. See Rte. 77 for 

41 Dirschau Junct. Stat. ( Inns: Kron- 
prinz; Herzog Sambor. It is a place 
of modern growth, owing its origin to its 
position at a ferry over the AV. arm of the 
Vistula, which was formerly very diffi¬ 
cult and dangerous to pass in winter. 
The bridge of boats, which afforded a 
passage in summer, is replaced by a sub¬ 
stantial Railway Bridge on the suspension 
principle, one of the finest of the kind in 
Europe, in length 2500 ft., in breadth 
63 ft. It rests on 6 piers, 4 of them in 
the river, each strongly protected against 
the ice, supporting iron lattice arches 
each of 397 ft. span. The cost 
exceeded 500,00<V. Embankments tra¬ 
verse the fertile triangular plain, or 
Delta, deposited by the river, which is 
bounded at the further extremity by the 
E. arm, called Nogat, now bridged 
likewise by the Rly., on 2 lattice spans 
of 321 ft., and one of 53 ft. The country 
between these rivers lies below the 
level of the Baltic, and is protected 
from inundations solely by dykes 'and 
windmills, as is the case in Holland. 
On the rt. bank of the Nogat stands 

2^ Marienburg Stat. (Inns: Kiinig 
v. Preussen; Hochmeister), an ancient 
town of 8000 Inhab., on the Nogat, 
chiefly remarkable as the seat of the 
once powerful Knights of the Teu¬ 
tonic Order, to whom this country was 
ceded in the 13th cent, by the King of 
Poland. After a struggle of 53 years the 
knights effectually subdued the pagan 
and then barbarous Prussians. The 
germ of the present Prussian empire 
sprang, in fact, from them. The Castle , 
or Palace of the Grand Masters, a vast 
imposing edifice, of brickwork, beautiful 
in construction, in a style of Gothic 
peculiar to the vicinity of the Baltic, 
was built at different periods; the 




430 


ROUTE 78. —MARIENBURG. ELBING. 

♦ 


Alte Schloss, now much decayed, in 
1276; the Middle Castle in 1309, at 
the time when the seat of the Order 
was removed hither from Yenice ; and 
the Niedere Schloss in 1335. In 1457 
it was surrendered to the Poles, after 
having been in the possession of the 
Order 148 years, and having been go¬ 
verned by 17 Grand Masters. Since 
1815 the central building has been 
rescued from ruin, and admirably re¬ 
stored, by the aid of the archives of 
the Order, now at Konigsberg, which 
have been carefully consulted by the 
architect. It consists of 3 stories, 
vaulted; the cellar, ground floor, and 
master’s dwelling. The apartments 
have been richly decorated with frescoes, 
painted glass, tiles, wood panelling. 
The Meisters Rerater (Chapterhouse of 
the Grand Master), a square chamber 
with fan roof, in which assemblies of 
the Order were held, and foreign am¬ 
bassadors received, rests on a single 
pillar of granite in the centre. The 
Poles, while besieging Marienburg in 
1410, endeavoured to aim a cannon¬ 
ball so as to shoot away this pillar, and 
overwhelm at one blow beneath the 
ruins the Grand Master and all his 
knights, whom they knew, from the 
information of a deserter, to be at the 
time assembled in conclave. The ball 
missed its aim, but lodged in a corner 
of the chimney, where it still remains. 
The Ordens Remter, in the N. wing, has 
fan roof supported on 3 granite pillars. 
The Church , in a very chaste style, 
and tolerably perfect, is decorated ex¬ 
ternally with a figure of the Virgin, 
in relief, of stucco covered with coloured 
and gilt mosaic, 26 ft. high; it displays 
considerable skill and knowledge of 
art. Many of the Grand Masters of 
the Order repose in vaults beneath the 
Church, in simple coffins. Many cells 
of the knightly monks, and their sub¬ 
terranean dungeons, still exist. The 
building has been rescued from ruin, 
and partly restored by the taste and 
munificence of the King. The Butter¬ 
milk Tower is so called, because, accord¬ 
ing to the tradition, the peasants, com¬ 
pelled to build it by forced labour for 
the Order, were also obliged to slake 
the lime with buttermilk! 


Sect. VI. 

The rly. is carried through the 
Outer Castle ( Vorburg). 

Beyond Marienburg the road passes 
through a populous country, abounding 
in villages, and showing evidences of 
prosperity and improvement. 

Altfelde Stat. 

Griinau Stat. 

4~ Elbing Stat.— Inn, Stadt Berlin. 
A decayed trading town, with a popu¬ 
lation of 28,600, on the Elbing, a navi¬ 
gable stream emptying itself into the 
Frische Haff, an extensive lake sepa¬ 
rated from the Baltic by a narrow strip 
of land, and receiving a large portion of 
the waters of the Vistula. The Marten - 
hirche contains some curious sculptures, 
date 1500. 

The Ply., quitting Elbing, makes a 
bend to avoid the hills. The stations 
are Giildenboden, Schlobitten, Mul- 
hausen, Tiedmannsdorf, to 

Braunsberg Stat. (Inn: Bheinischer 
Hof), a town of 7300 Inliab., on the 
Passarge; then by Heiligenbeit, Sand- 
krug, Ludwigsarth, Kohbelbude, to 

81 Konigsberg Terminus , inside the 
fortifications; on the S. (1.) hank of 
the Pregel. 

[Steamer between Elbing and Ko¬ 
nigsberg, in 8 hours. It descends 
the Elbing, into the Frische Haff, 
separated from the Baltic by the 
narrow sandbank (Nehrung), pass¬ 
ing the convent of Cadienen , and 
in 2^ hours reaches Frauenberg 
(Inn: Zum Copernicus), a small and 
poor town on the Haff, residence of the 
Bishop of Ermeland, whose modern 
Palace crowns the hill. Copernicus, 
the great astronomer, died here (1553), 
and is buried in the Cathedral , a hand¬ 
some building of brick on a height 
(erected 1342). His tomb is a simple 
tablet bearing a globe. Copernicus was 
a canon of the cathedral, and lived in 
one of the houses which surround it. 
Within the enclosure is a well, fur¬ 
nished with water by an aqueduct and 
hydraulic works, constructed by him. 
The machinery which he erected has 
long since disappeared, hut a model of 
it is still preserved in the cathedral, and 
is supposed to have been imitated in the 



Prussia. 


431 


ROUTE 78. —KONIGSBERG. 


waterworks at Marly, near Versailles. 
The tower which contained it still stands 
near the cathedral, and is called Kunst 
Thurm. 

The Papal excommunication of Co¬ 
pernicus, for publishing his System of 
the Heavens, was revoked in 1821. 

The steamer now steers direct for the 
lighthouse of Pillau —the port of Ko- 
nigsberg for large vessels—a flourish¬ 
ing town of 4000 Inhab., and a fortress. 
Oil the shores of the Haff, near this, 
are the Castle of Lochstadt, whither 
the Grand Master of the Teutonic Order, 
Henry von Plauen, was banished, 1413 ; 
and on the shore of the Baltic, the 
Adalberts Kapelle , erected on the spot 
where St. Adelbert suffered martyrdom, 
997, at the hands of the heathen 
Preussi, while preaching Christianity 
to them. A narrow channel connects 
the Haff with the Baltic at Pillau. 
The steamer skirts the sand-hills, and 
in 2^ hours enters the Pregel; ^ hour 
longer and it reaches Konigsberg,] 

Konigsberg (Polish, Krolewiec; 
Latin, Begiomontum). Inns: Hotel de 
Prusse, near the Borse ; Deutsches 
Haus, near the Schloss; Sans Souci. 

Konigsberg, once the capital of 
Prussia Proper, and long the residence 
of the Electors of Brandenburg, still 
ranks as third city in the Prussian do¬ 
minions in extent of population, having 
106,500 Inhab. It has been strongly re- 
fortified, on the plan of detached forts, 
since 1843. The river Pregel, passing- 
through it, ends in the Frische Haff, 
4 m. below the city. Extensive grana¬ 
ries prove the extent of its com trade. 

Its Palace (Schloss), a large ugly 
building, part converted into a go¬ 
vernment-house, and rarely occupied 
by royalty, was founded by Otto- 
kar King of Bohemia, after leading a 
crusade against the heathen Preussi, 
1257. It afterwards became the re¬ 
sidence of the Grand Masters of the 
Teutonic Order, and of the Dukes of 
Prussia, by whom the E. front was 
built 1532, the W. in 1594, the S. 
in 1551. It was the residence of 
Fredk. Wm. III., King of Prussia, 
and his queen Louisa, when driven by 
Napoleon’s arms from Berlin. In the 


Schlosskirche Frederick Elector of Bran¬ 
denburg in 1701 placed the crown on 
his own head, assuming the title of 
Frederick I., King of Prussia. The 
tablets on the walls, covered with close- 
written lists of names, show how many 
brave men of the province lost their 
lives in the War of Liberation, 1813. 
Above the church is a vast hall, 265 
ft. long, 60 broad, and only 19 high, 
destitute of ornament, called Mosko- 
witzer Saal , from the Muscovite ambas¬ 
sadors of the Grand Duke Basilius, who 
were received here by Margrave Albert. 
The inner court once served as a tilt- 
yard. The cellars beneath once served 
as a dungeon and places of torture for 
criminals. 

The Parade Platz, not far from the 
Schloss, is lined on 2 sides by the New 
University and Theatre; in the midst is 
a bronze gilt equestrian statue of King 
Frederick William III., a very suc¬ 
cessful work by Kiss, erected 1851. 
The bas-reliefs relate to events in the 
life of the King, who resided here after 
the Battle of Jena, 1809-13, and here 
set on foot the enrolment of the land- 
wehr and the Prussian rising against 
the French. 

The Schloss-Teich is a pretty sheet of 
water, bordered by gardens, extend¬ 
ing from the Schloss nearly to the 
Bossgarten-Gate. It is the chief or¬ 
nament of the city, and place of public 
resort. It stands much higher than the 
river. A foot bridge leads across it 
from the Parade Platz. 

The Pregel, lined with warehouses 
and crowded with shipping, runs 
through the midst of the city, and 
dividing forms an island called Kneiphof, 
the oldest quarter, abounding in old 
houses. It is joined to either bank by 
5 bridges, and on it stand the Cathe¬ 
dral and Exchange. 

The Cathedral , begun 1332, deserves 
notice. It is an interesting Gothic 
building, and contains in the choir 
the marble monument of Margrave 
Albert of B., bearing his kneeling effigy, 
1568. Here are other tombs of many 
Teutonic Knights, the chancellor v. 
Kospoth, and the grand-master Duke 
Luther (1385). Kant the metaphysician, 
author of the System of Pure Reason, as 








432 


ROUTE 78. —KONIGSBERG. 


Sect. VI. 


it is called, who died here in 1804, is 
buried in a porch, or Stoa, outside of 
the church. The house in which he 
lived still exists, No. 3 in the Prinzessin 
Strasse; a statue of him in cast-iron has 
been set up before it; directly opposite 
is the large Post Office, built 1849. The 
Altstadt Kirche, built from Schinkel’s 
design 1839-43, is so full of pillars that 
you cannot see the preacher for them. 

In the Konigs-Strasse, No. 57, is the 
Stadt-Museum, containing some modern 
German paintings. No. 66, same street, 
is the Library of 160,000 vols., including 
several MSS. of Luther. At the end ot 
the street is the Konigs Thor, built 1846, 
and beyond it, near the Herzogs-acker, 
the Defensions Caserne, a fortified bar¬ 
rack, completed 1851, and forming part 
of the fortifications. 

On the whole Konigsberg contains 
few remains of antiquity, considering 
its age as a city, and is far inferior to 
this respect to Danzig. 

Near the Dom is the Old University, 
founded 1544, by the Margrave Albert, 
and called the Albertina ; it has about 
350 students. A bust of Kant, by Scha- 
dow, is placed in the Academic Hall. 

The Observatory, which obtained re¬ 
nown under the direction of the late 
Prof. Bessel, occupies an old bastion W. 
of the town. 

A British Consul resides here. The 
chief journals of Europe are to be found 
at the Borsenhalle. 

The royal park of "Warnichen on the 
Baltic is pleasing and worth a visit. 

The river Pregel, on which Konigsberg 
is built, is not sufficiently deep to 
admit large vessels, which, therefore, 
unload at Pillau. The trade of Konigs¬ 
berg consists of corn, for receiving which 
there are vast ranges of Warehouses, 
hemp, flax, linseed, tallow, bristles, wax, 
&c.; but it has fallen off since the end of 
the last cent., when it had reached the 
height of prosperity. There is a con¬ 
siderable fishery of sturgeon at Pillau. 
An extensive trade in Amber was for¬ 
merly carried on at Konigsberg ; there 
were at one time 70 amber-turners in the 
town. That substance is still one of 
its exports; the chief consumption of 
it being in the Levant, where it is sold 
for pipe mouth-pieces. Amber is found 


all along the coast of East and "West 
Prussia. It is obtained from the sea, 
which, after high winds, especially 
those blowing from the N., throws up 
a vast accumulation of sea-weed. The 
amber-fishers stationed on the shore 
wait till the floating seaweed ap¬ 
proaches near to it. They then send 
in their people up to their necks in 
water, provided with nets, by which 
they draw the weeds to land. The am¬ 
ber occurs in the lower beds of the form¬ 
ation known as Glauconite sand, ex¬ 
tending under the Baltic, which, when 
roused by storms, tears up the amber 
earth and carries the amber to the 
surface along with pieces of brown coal. 
Amber is also found inland by sink¬ 
ing shafts to reach the “ amber earth,” 
where it does not lie too deep. The trade 
in amber was first appropriated by the 
Grand Masters of the Teutonic Order, 
who often paid the entire expenses of 
their court out of the revenue derived 
from this source. It afterwards became 
a royal monopoly, and was guarded in 
early times by laws of the utmost se¬ 
verity. Coastguards (strand-riders) were 
stationed all along the coast, and the 
peasant who concealed or attempted to 
dispose of any pieces he had found was 
condemned to be hung up to the nearest 
tree. Afterwards a range of gallows was 
set up on the shore in terrorem. Since the 
commencement of the present cent, the 
government has let out the right of 
collecting amber to private contractors. 

Dealer in Amber goods, Schlesinger, 
Franzosische St. 

Pailway to Pillau. 

Pailway to Preussisch Eylau, about 
22 in. S. of Konigsberg, where Napo¬ 
leon fought theBussians under Benning- 
sen, in the snow, and compelled them to 
retreat, though with a severe loss of 
10,000 on his side, Feb. 8th, 1807. 
About 12 m. N.E. of this is Friedland 
on the Alle—scene of another French 
victory over Benningsen, June 14th, 
1807, when 25,000 Russians were slain 
and 80 pieces of cannon taken. This 
led to the Treaty of Tilsit. 

Ply. to Eydt - Kuhnet (Prussian 
frontier), and thence to St. Petersburg, 
by Kowno and Dunaberg, in 24 hrs. 
See Handbook of Russia. 




Prussia. 


433 


ROUTE 79. —KONIGSBERG TO MEMEL. 


Steamers daily to Tilsit and Memel. 

Rigs. to Diinaburg, Riga, and St. 
Petersburg; to Berlin. 


ROUTE 79. 

KONIGSBERG TO TILSIT, BY INSTERBURG, 
AND TO MEMEL.- 

29| Pruss. m.= 137 Eng. m. 

Hail to Eydtkuhnen, Prussian fron¬ 
tier. 4 trains daily in 4 to 5 hrs. 

The lily, from Konigsberg to Riga pro¬ 
ceeds due E. on the side of the Prc- 
gel, by Lindenau Stat. 

2 ^ Tapiau Stat., a town of 3000 In- 
bab. The castle, built by the Teutonic 
Knights, is now a poor-house. The 
rly r crosses the Alle by an iron lattice 
bridge near 

Welilau Stat. Norkitten Stat. 

Insterburg Junct. Stat. (Buffet), a 
commercial town of 11,000 Inhab., on 2 
streams, which after their junction form 
the Pregel. 

[The Riga line continues E. by 
Gumbinnen Stat., Stalluponen Stat., 
Eydtkuhnen Stat., Prussian frontier, to 
Diinaburg and Riga. 

From Eydtkuhnen to St. Peters¬ 
burg, by Kowno and Diinaburg, ex¬ 
press in 24 hrs. See Handbk. of Russia .] 


From Insterburg, branch rly.; 2 
trains daily in 1 £ hr. to 

2g Tilsit Stat. (Cronopolis). —Inns : 
Prinz Wilhelm; H. de Russie. A town 
of 16,000 Inhab., named from the Tilse, 
a small stream which falls into the 
Memel, here crossed by a bridge of 
boats 1150 ft. long. Upon a raft, 
moored a little below it, in the middle 
of the river, Napoleon, the Empr. 
[N. G.] 


Alexander of Russia, and the King of 
Prussia met, July 9, 1807, to sign the 
treaty of Tilsit, by which half the ter¬ 
ritory of Prussia was severed from her. 

From Tilsit to Memel the road is bad. 

85 Szameitkehmen. 

2 1 Werdenberg. 

1 # Norkaiten. 

2^ Prokuls. 

3 Memel.—Inns : British Hotel;— 
H. de Russie ;—W. Ross. This is 
the most northern town of Prussia. 
It lies at the entrance of the Kurische 
Haff, and has 17,000 Inhab. It is the 
central point of the Baltic timber trade, 
and exports also a vast quantity of raw 
hides. A British Consul resides here. 

There is a more direct road to 
Memel along the Strand, a narrow 
tongue of sand between the Baltic and 
the Kurische Haff; but, as it is very 
ill kept, and not provided with post- 
horses, it is little used. It was for¬ 
merly the most frequented, and, were 
it not insufferably tedious, with an 
awkward ferry across the port of Memel 
at the end, would be worth travelling 
for its singularity. There are 3 posts 
between Konigsberg and Memel. As it 
is impossible to make a firm road, the 
carriage must be driven with one wheel 
almost in the sea, and it requires 1 or 2 
additional horses. The Nehrung, as the 
sandbank is called, is like the Dunes of 
Holland, but it seems difficult to con¬ 
ceive that such broad, high, and steep 
hills can be all drift sand. The name 
Kurische Haff is derived from the Kurs, 
inhabitants of the neighbouring Cour- 
land. The traveller obliged to walk 
by the side of his carriage will have 
plenty of time to seek for amber. 


U 








434 


ROUTE 80. —STETTIN TO DANZIG. 


Sect. VI 


ROUTE 80. 

STETTIN TO DANZIG, BY BROMBERG; 

TO POSEN AND BRESLAU.—RAILWAY. 

Trains from Stettin to Dirschau in 
10 lirs. Thence to Danzig in hrs. 
58 Pruss. m. = 271 Eng. m. 

The Railway is carried from Stettin 
across the Oder, and on wooden via¬ 
ducts, resting on piles, over the shallow 
and marshy borders of the lake of 
Damm, to Alt Damm, and by the shore 
of the Madue lake. 

Stargard Stat. (Inn, Prinz v. Preus- 
sen.) This is the principal town of 
Farther Pomerania, Pop. 17,700, on the 
navigable Ihna, surrounded by perfect 
ramparts and watchtowers, furnished 
with gates. The Marienkirche (14th 
and 15th cents.), a fine Gothic building, 
a work of the Templars, simple in plan, 
is worth study. The Rathhaus (16th 
cent.) deserves notice. 

Dolitz Stat. 

Arnswalde Stat. ; by a chain of small 
meres or lakes, to 

Augustwalde Stat. 

Woldenberg Stat. (Rte. 77.) 

Kreutz Junction Stat. —4 Railways 
meet here— 1 , from Stettin; 2 , from 
Rromberg and Danzig ; 3, from Posen, 
rt. ; 4, from Kustrin. 

The Rly. hence to Danzig is described 
Rte. 77; that to Posen (122 m. from 
Stettin), trains in 6 hrs., proceeds by 

Wronker Stat., on the Warthe river. 

Samter Stat. The country in this 
part of Poland is dreary, and the 
common people look miserable : horse¬ 
flesh is a staple of food. 

Rockietnica Stat. 

Posen Stat. 

Posen (Inns: H. de Rome, in the 
Wilhelm’s Platz ; H. du Nord; My- 
lius H.; II. dc Dresde). This very 
ancient seat of the Polish Kings be¬ 
came in 1815 the capital of the pro¬ 
vince of Prussian Poland, since which 
time the largest and handsomest part 
of the town has been built. It is a 
cheerful town of 53,400 Inhab., more 
than half Germans, including 12,000 


Protestants and 10,000 Jews, situated 
on the river Wartha. The very in¬ 
teresting and picturesque Fortifications 
constructed since 1828 render it a 
first-class fortress on the frontier of 
Russia. They are well worth seeing. 
Passing through them from the Rly. 
by the Berlin Gate, the stranger reaches 
the Wilhelms Platz, in which stand the 
Stadt- Theater and the Raczinsky Library , 
in a building faced with a portico of 
24 cast-iron columns; 20,000 volumes 
presented to the town by Count R. 

The Bom , in a suburb (Wallischei) 
inhabited by Poles of the lower orders, on 
l the rt. bank of the Wartha, is a modern¬ 
ised building (1775), but contains some 
works of art:—4 large engraved brasses 
(15th cent.), to members of the De Gorta 
family, especially to Lucas de G., Way- 
wode 1475, in low relief, and 2 bishops; 
also several recumbent effigies of bishops. 
The Golden Chapel, erected in a style 
(Byzantine) of great splendour 1842, by 
the society of Noble Poles at the insti¬ 
gation of Count Edwd. Raczinski, with 
painting and rich gilding and mosaics, 
contains 2 bronze statues of the first 
Kings of Poland, by Rauch, which merit 
notice. „ 

The Rathhaus is one of the oldest 
buildings in the town, in a peculiar 
Sclavonic-Romanesque style (1512-20), 
not unlike that at Breslau, painted 
with frescoes of the Kings of Poland, 
now nearly effaced, and furnished 
with oriental-looking pinnacles and 
parapets; above it rises the loftiest 
tower in the town (date 1730). A con¬ 
siderable wool fair is held here in June. 

The best view of Posen may be 
gained from the roof of *Fort Winiary, 
the citadel of the new works. Admis¬ 
sion may be obtained at the Bureau of 
the Platz-Major. 

Railways to Stettin (Rte. 80). To 
Breslau. See below. 

Posen lies on the direct road from 
Berlin to Warsaw, but for about 40 
m. to the Russian frontier there is no 
chaussec but a deep sand. 

[“ Posen to Gnicsen, by Kostreyn, 7£ 
Germ. m. Through undulating country, 
with occasional small lakes, and some 
forest. 







ROUTE 80. —GttlESEtt. 


Prussia. 

“ Gniesen (Polish* Gniesno) : (Hotel 
de Yarsovie ; very middling) a small 
town, said to have been the earliest seat 
of the Polish monarchy, and founded 
by Lekh the First, on the spot where 
he found an eagle’s nest (gniesno, 
whence the name) on the ground. In 
later times its importance was due to its 
being the seat of an archbishop, the 
Primate of Poland. During an inter¬ 
regnum he was the head of the republic, 
and held greater power than was en¬ 
trusted to the king. 

“ The cathedral is a large building, 
with two brick towers capped by spires 
at the west end. It would appear to 
date from the latter part of the 14th 
century; but not much of the original 
work is left, many alterations, casings 
of parts with marble, &c., having been 
made in the 16th and succeeding cen¬ 
turies. The chapels which surround 
the building beyond the aisles are in 
many cases superbly decorated with 
marble columns and sculptures, and 
contain magnificent monuments of 
archbishops and canons. The effigies 
and other sculptures of many of these are 
extremely good in style and of the 16th 
and 17th centuries. There are also some 
bronze effigies in low relief, dating from 
about 1500, and a very large engraved 
brass of Archbishop Jacobus de Senno, 
ob. 1480, a very singular specimen of art. 
The most remarkable objects in the 
church are, however, the bronze valves 
of the S. doorway, and the shrine of St. 
Adalbert, which stands in the middle 
of the nave. The first are no doubt of 
the 12th cent.,and contain in 18 panels 
subjects from the history of that saint. 
St. Adalbert, or St. Wojciech, was bora 
about 956, became Abp. of Prague, but 
was eventually driven away from thence 
by his unruly flock, baptized Stephen of 
Hungar} r , afterwards king, and event* 
ually canonized, aided in the conversion 
of Poland, and was martyred in 997 at 
Fischhausen, near Dantzic, in an at¬ 
tempt to convert the pagan Prussians. 
He is one of the patron saints of Poland, 
and has been, and indeed still is, very 
much venerated in all the countries 
adjacent to the Baltic. He was the 
composer of the celebrated hymn to the 
Virgin, beginning,— 


435 

* Boja rodzica dziewica. 

Bojiem wslaviona Marya. 
t. e. * Virgin mother of God. 

Mary glorified by God,’— 

which Was sung by the Polish armies 
before engaging in battle, and prefixed 
to the treaties of the Polish kings. It is 
believed to date from the 14th cent., and 
to be the earliest written monument of 
the Polish tongue. “ It is still sung 
here by tens of thousands of pilgrims 
on the 23rd of April, St. Adalbert’s day, 
when a great fair is held at Gniesen. 
The shrine is of solid silver; the sides 
decorated with bas-reliefs, representing 
events of the life of the saint; and on 
the top is his recumbent effigy, of life- 
size, also in silver. Over the shrine and 
the altar which stands before it is a 
baldachin, 40 Polish ft. in height, 
with twisted columns of marble, a copy 
of that over the high-altar in St. 
Peter’s, Borne. This, and probably the 
shrine also, was made at the expense of 
Matthew Lubienski, Dean of Gniesen, 
in 1767. In the wall of the nave is 
some curious sculpture, which seems to 
have formed part of the monument of 
St. Adalbert, erected by Archbishop 
James, of Senno.—N.”] 

A Railroad, finished 1850, leads from 
Posen to Breslau. Trains in 5£ hrs. 

The stations are— 

Kosten. 

Lissa. 

Bawicz. 

Trachenberg. 

Obernigk. 

Breslau Stat., see Bte. 81. 


U 2 





436 


ROUTE 81;— BERLIN TO FRANKFURT. 


Sect. VI, 


ROUTE 81. 

BERLIN TO FRANKFURT ON THE ODER 
AND BRESLAU;—RAILWAY. 

47 g Pruss. m. = 222 Eng. m. Trains 
tb Frankfurt in 2| h.: to Breslau in 1 i h. 

Terminus in Berlin, near the Stra- 
lauer Platz. 

l£ Kopenik Stat. on an island in 
the Spree. The Schloss was, about 1830, 
used as a prison for riotous students. 
The line now skirts the lake called 
Miiggelsee. 

1 1 Erkner Stat.; lime-works near this. 

3 Fiirstenwalde Stat. The Marien- 
hirche , a brick chinch of the 14th cent., 
with a modern roof, is worth notice. 
It has a beautiful Gothic Sacraments- 
hduschen (date 1510) of sandstone; 
monuments of several bishops — part 
stone, part brass — before the altar. 
Near Bosengarten the line crosses the 
watershed between Elbe and Oder. 

2 Briesen Stat. 

2 2 Frankfurt on the Oder Junct. Stat. 

Inns: Adler; Deutsches Haus. A 
city of 41,000 Inhab., no longer forti¬ 
fied. A bridge of wood, loaded with 
heavy stones to prevent its being washed 
away by floods, connects the old town 
on the 1. bank of the Oder with the 
suburb on the rt. bank. 

The prosperity of the town arises 
from its situation upon the great 
Silesian highway, and upon a navi¬ 
gable river communicating by canals 
with the Vistula and the Elbe, which 
combine in causing the greater part 
of the manufactures of Silesia to pass 
through it; and from three consider¬ 
able Fairs held here annually. It is 
far inferior, however, in commercial 
activity, to its namesake on the Maine. 
The University was transferred to 
Breslau in 1810. The chief buildings 
are the Oberkirche, or Gh. of St. Mary , 
a brick building of the middle of the 
13th cent., with 5 aisles to the nave. 
It has a splendid altarpiece of carved 
woodwork, richly gilt, with 8 paint¬ 
ings, date 1517. The stained-glass 


windows, a bronze 7-branched candle¬ 
stick 12 ft. high, with bas-reliefs of 
the 14th cent., and a font also with bas-¬ 
reliefs, deserve notice. The Rathhaus , 
1007, retains portions of moulded brick 4 
work of the 13th and 14th centuries) 
though large part is later. A monu¬ 
ment has been erected) beyond the 
bridge; to Prince Leopold of Brunswick; 
who was drowned here in 1785, while 
attempting to rescue an unfortunate fa¬ 
mily from an inundation of the Oder. 

The battle of Kunersdorf, one of the 
most memorable of the Seven Years’ 
War, in which Frederick the Great 
encountered the united forces of Aus¬ 
tria and Bussia, amounting to 80,000 
men, and, though worsted, did not 
sustain a serious defeat, was fought 
within 3 m. N.E. of the town, in 1759. 
The poet Kleist died at Frankfurt of a 
wound received in that engagement. 
A monument has been set up to his 
memory. 

Frankfurt is connected by Bail with 
Danzig, Posen, and Stettin (Bte. 77). 

1 Krebsjauche Stat. 

1 Fiirstenberg Stat, 

1 Neuzelle Stat. 

2| Guben Stat. A town of 16,000 
Inhab., on the river Neisse, w r hose 
banks are here planted with vines. It 
has an extensive manufacture of cloth. 

1 -^ Starzeddel Stat. 

1^ Sommerfeld Stat. 

3 Sorau Stat. (Thw, Stern). A town 
of 5000 Inhab., in a sandy plain. 
Manufacture of wax candles. A road 
leads hence W. to Muskau, Bte. 82. 

1 Hansdorf Junct. Stat. [A branch 
railway runs from this to Glogau, 
distance 9 Germ, m., and Posen, by 

2 Sagan Stat. Inn , Bitter St. Georg. 
A town of 5500 Inhab., on the Bober. 
The Chateau was begun by Wallen¬ 
stein ; attached to it is a fine garden 
and park. It now belongs to the 
Prince of Hohenzollem-Hechingen. 

2 Sprottau Stat. (/an, Deutsches 
Haus), a town of 3000 Inhab. Beyond, 
the road runs not far from the Bober. 
Gloomy fir-woods, rarely enlivened by a 
woodman’s hut, a pitch oven, or an iron 
forge, spread themselves over the district. 

3 Quariz Stat. 





Prussia. 


ROUTE 81.—BUNZLAU. LIEGN1TZ. BRESLAU. 437 


2 G log an Stat.— Inns : Deutsches 
Ilaus ; Wcstphal’s Hotel. A fortress of 
the 2 nd rank on the 1. bank of the Oder, 
17,000 Inhab. The Dom upon an 
island dates from 1120, and contains a 
madonna by Cranach , sen., his master¬ 
piece.] 

1 Halbau Stat. 1 Through unin- 

1 ^ Rausche Stat. } terrupted forests. 

1^ Kohlfurt Junct. Stat. Here the 

railway is joined by that from Dresden, 
(ltte 82.) 

2 Jj Siogcrsdorf Stat. The Queis is 
crossed, and afterwards the Bober , 
on a Viaduct 1550 ft. long, 76 ft. 
high. 

2 Bnnzlau Stat. — Inns: Kron Prinz ; 
Deutsches Ilaus. A small well-built 
town, of 5000 Inhab., on the Bober, 
situated on the verge of the most pic¬ 
turesque as well as industrious district 
of Silesia, which extends as far as the 
mountains. In the market-place is an 
Iron Obelisk , by Schinkcl and G. Scha- 
dow, to the memory of the Russian 
General Kutusoff, who died here, 28th 
April, 1813. The father of German 
poetry, Opitz, was born in a house in 
the Ring, No. 66 . A brown pottery is 
made here. About 2 m. oft' lies the 
Moravian colony of Gnadenberg . 

3| Hainau Stat. 

2 ^ Liegnitz Stat.—Inns: Rauten- 
kranz, good; Schwarzer Adler. This 
town, of 20,000 Inhab., is handsomely 
built, and prettily placed on the junction 
of the Katzbach and Schwarzwasser. 
The Schloss , nearly rebuilt after a fire in 
1834, but retaining 2 fine brick towers 
which date from 15th cent., has been 
converted into a Museum of Art, In¬ 
dustry, and Manufactures, ancient and 
modern, of considerable interest, ar¬ 
ranged by Baron Minutoli. In the 
Furstencapelle, which is po«r, are 
the monuments of the Piast Dukes: 
the family became extinct 1675, after 
having given 24 kings to Poland, 
and 123 dukes to Liegnitz, dating 
from 775. The building of the Bitter 
Academic , an institution for the educa¬ 
tion of the sons of Silesian nobles, is 
handsome. The New Cemetery for 
Protestants and Catholics, outside the 


town, on the rt. of the road to Breslau, 
should be visited. 

Railway —Liegnitz to Reichenbach, 
across the field of battle of the Katz¬ 
bach, which, though a small stream, 
is memorable in history from the 
battle named after it, gained over the 
French in 1813 by Bliicher, who re¬ 
ceived, as a reward for his services, 
the title of Prince of Wahlstatt {Battle¬ 
field) from a small village of that 
name, with a convent, now suppressed, 
S. of Liegnitz. It had rained for 
four days in succession previous to 
the battle, and continued to rain while 
it lasted, so that powder was useless; 
and the victory was gained by the 
bayonet and the butt-end of the musket: 
102 French cannon were taken. The 
fiercest part of the battle raged between 
Wahlstatt and Eichholz, near which a 
monument has been erected by the 
King of Prussia. The convent of 
Wahlstatt was built to commemorate 
the triumph of the Christian chivalry 
of Europe over the barbarous hordes 
of Asia, in a great battle, fought near 
the same spot in 1241, between the 
Duke of Silesia and the army of the 
Mongul Tartars. On quitting Liegnitz 
Stat. the Katzbach is crossed. 

1 ^ Spittelndorf Stat. t 

14 Malsch Stat. The railway here 
approaches the Oder. 

1 Neumarkt Stat.— Inns : Die HofF- 
nung ; Hohes Haus. A town of 3000 
Inhab. The Zobten mountain is visible. 

1 ^ Nimkau Stat. 

1 ^ Lissa Stat. After the famous 
battle of Lissa (Leuthen), 5th Dec. 
1757, in which Frederick the Great, 
with 30,000 men, defeated the Aus¬ 
trian army of 90,000, he unexpectedly 
rode on to the castle of Lissa, a small 
village on the approach to Breslau, 
which still remained in the hands of the 
Austrians. A party of Austrian officers 
were not a little surprised when their 
conqueror entered the room where they 
were assembled, modestly inquiring, 
“ Have you any room for me here, 
gentlemen?” 

1^ Breslau Stat. in the Schweidnitz 
suburb, on the S, side of the town, not 






438 


Sect. VI. 


ROUTE 81. —BRESLAU. CHURCHES, ETC. 


far from Tauentziens Platz. — Inns: 
Goldene Gans (Golden Goose) ; Hotel 
Zedlitz, near the railway, well situated 
and well managed; landlord speaks 
English; cheap, and good; Hotel de 
Silesie; the White Eagle. Breslau, 
a fine flourishing town, is the capital 
of Silesia, and the 2nd city in Prussia 
in point of population, having 172,000 
Inhah. (45,000 Roman Catholics, 10,000 
Jews). It is built on both banks of 
the Oder, which is split into branches 
and crossed by several bridges. The 
fortifications were partly demolished by 
the French in 1806-7, and since then 
have been levelled, and converted into 
Boulevard gardens for the recreation 
of the inhabitants, tastefully planted, 
so that the whole forms a delightful 
belt of verdure, separating the old town 
from the suburbs. From the Taschen 
Bastei the town is best seen; and from 
the Ziegel Bastei there is a good view of 
the Oder, which, though rarely pictur¬ 
esque below Breslau, here assumes a 
pleasing character. 

Breslau is interesting to passing tra¬ 
vellers, not only as a commercial town 
•—hustling, prosperous, and wealthy— 
but also on account of various objects 
of art and antiquity contained in it. 
The principal streets are the Schweid- 
nitzer Strasse, leading 1ST. from the 
Tauenziens Platz to the Grosse-Bing, 
and the line is continued N. in the 
Schmiede Gasse to the Oder and Sand 
Insel, where the 3 principal churches 
are grouped together. 

The Churches, divided between Pro¬ 
testants and Catholics, are exceed¬ 
ingly interesting, from the number of 
mural monuments and other works in 
alto-rilievo, which decorate their porches 
and exterior walls. The Cathedral of St. 
John, begun 1170, continued through 
later centuries, and now much modern¬ 
ized, stands upon the Dom Insel. It is 
distinguished by its quaint and not 
ungraceful architecture of red brick. 
In the Lady Chapel, which has a square 
end, is the marble effigy of Bp. Pretz- 
laus, its founder, d. 1376, with a herse 
of iron, having lanterns in the angles 
and brasses. The monument of Card. 
Bp. Friedrich Landgrave of Hesse. The 


fine bronze relief of Bp. Johann v. 
Both (1496) is by Peter Vischer. In 
the chapel of St. John is Lucas Cranach's 
altarpiece, the “ Madonna unter Tan- 
nen.” The monument having 2 Turks 
for supporters is that of Luke Christian 
of Holstein, who fell fighting against 
the Turks in Hungary, 1691. 

The Kreutzhirche , close to the Dom and 
much less altered, is a singular and pic¬ 
turesque building, with 2 towers at the 
W. end, founded 1288. It is of lofty 
proportions, and raised upon a lower ch. 
or crypt. See the monument of Duke 
Henry IV., its founder (1290), with his 
effigy of terra-cotta, supported by angels 
and priests, and set round with bas- 
reliefs. There is a good view of the 
town from the top of the tower. 

St. Elizabeth's Ch. possesses the 
highest tower in Prussia (364 ft. high). 
It is remarkable for monuments of all 
sorts, pictures, enamels, altars, sculp¬ 
ture, &c. The very handsome Ch. of 
Our Lady on the Sand has aisles higher 
than the nave, vaulting alternate ; it is 
of good Gothic, 1330-1336. 

In the Square, called Grosser-ring, 
stands the picturesque * Rathhaus, a 
large and quaint structure, very remark¬ 
able for its architecture within and 
without; founded by King John of 
Bohemia, but as it now stands, show¬ 
ing, for the most part, the Gothic of 
the 15th cent., restored 1862. In the 
apartment called Fiirstensaal the alle¬ 
giance of the states of Silesia was ten¬ 
dered to its princes, and among them 
to Frederick the Great. Under it runs 
a great vaulted chamber—the Schweid- 
nitzer Keller, famed for its Beer. 

The column in front of it (Staup- 
siiule), 1492, surmounted by a figure 
bearing sword and rod, indicates the 
jurisdiction of the city, and the 
power of life and death wielded by its 
magistrates. 

W. of the Bathhaus, on the parade- 
ground of the Grosse Bing, is an eques¬ 
trian statue of Frederick the Great, by 
Kiss, erected 1847 ; and on the opposite 
side a similar statue of Fred. William 
III., also by Kiss. Behind Frederick 
the Great’s statue is the Stadthaus, built 
1863, from Stiller’s design; destined 





Prussia. 


439 


ROUTE 82. —DRESDEN TO BRESLAU. 


for public offices, and to bold an exten¬ 
sive public Library. The Government 
House, formerly the Palace of Count 
Hatzfeld, is a line building ; the Palace 
(Schloss) scarce deserves the name. 

The Square, named after Bliicher, 
S.W. of the Grosse Ping, is ornamented 
with a colossal bronze statue of him, 
by Pauch. The Tauenziens Platz bears 
a statue of the general of that name, 
the brave defender of Breslau against 
the Austrians, under Loudon, 1760. 

The University, transferred hither 
from Frankfurt on the Oder in 1811, 
numbers about 900 students. The 
building, originally an Imperial palace, 
and afterwards a Jesuits’ college, con¬ 
tains one very fine apartment called 
Aula Leopoldina. Connected with the 
University are the following collec¬ 
tions :— 

A Museum of Natural History; the 
Centra'. Library of 300,000 volumes, 
open daily from 9 to 12; the Cabinet 
of Antiquities —the larger portion are 
Germm and Slavonic; the Picture 
Calleri, made up of 700 paintings, 
chiefly trash. The Botanic Garden, close 
to the Dom, is rich, and well looked 
after. 

The Theatre is a handsome building. 

It is not surprising that Breslau, 
situated n the centre of the most pro¬ 
ductive nanufacturing province of the 
Prussian dominions, concentrating also 
the trade )f a large portion of Poland and 
Russia, slould enjoy extensive and in¬ 
creasing posperity. The articles of com¬ 
merce arevarious and important. Corn, 
metals of many sorts from the Silesian 
mines, cbths, linen, timber, and fire¬ 
wood are the principal. There are 
nearly 10) distilleries in the town. In 
addition o this, Breslau is the first 
market ir wool on the continent. 
Wool-fair are held here in June and 
October. 

In Marh 1813 the youth of Prussia 
here rallid round their king; and here 
began tht patriotic resistance to the 
French \hich led to the liberation of 
their couirv, and to the occupation of 
Paris, teslau is a city of Slavonic 
origin, hdng been occupied by the 


Poles and Bohemians alternately for 800 
years. When the Silesian dukes died 
out it was transferred to Austria, from 
whom it was taken by Frederick the 
Great, 1742. Silesia has a considerable 
Slavonic population. 

Pail roads —to Freiburg and Schweid- 
nitz, 73 Germ. m. (Pte. 84)—to Berlin 
—to Cracow (Pte. 85 a)— to Patibor 
and Vienna (Pte. 85b). To Dresden; 
to Posen and Danzig (Pte. 80) ; to 
Warsaw. To Hirschberg. 

18 m. E. of Breslau is Oels, chief 
town of the mediatised principality of 
Brunswick-Oels, with 6000 Inhab., and 
a chateau. 

At the village of Krieblowitz, 14 m. 
from Breslau, Marshal Bliicher died, 
in 1819. (See Pte. 84.) 


ROUTE 82. 

DRESDEN TO BRESLAU.—RAILWAY, 

35 Pruss. m. = 163^ Eng. m. Trains 
to Gorlitz in 3, to Breslau in 8 h. To 
the Saxon frontier the country is very 
picturesque. 

Padeberg Stat. Near here the rail¬ 
way ci’osses the Roder. 

5 Bischofswerda Stat. Inn, Engel. 

2 f Bautzen (Budissin) Stat. (Inns : 
Goldene Krone, comfortable; Das 
Lamm, in the suburb), the capital of 
Upper Lusatia (Ober Lausitz) is a very 
picturesque town, surrounded by tur- 
reted old walls, beautifully situated on 
the Spree, and has 12,500 Inhab., who 
carry on flourishing manufactures of 
cloth and cotton. The parish Ch. of 
St. Peter is shared between Catholics 
and Protestants. The Estates of the 
province hold their meetings in the 
Stundehaus, A vast modern. Gothic 






440 


ROUTE 82. —LOBAU. gorlitz. Sect. VI. 


Rathhaus has been built. Close to tbe 
town lies the old castle of Ortenburg , 
formerly the residence of the Margraves 
of Meissen, ancestors of the Saxon 
Royal Family. Seidow, on the 1. bank 
of the Spree, is almost entirely inha¬ 
bited by Wends. In the neighbour¬ 
hood was fought the battle of Bautzen , 
May 1813, when Napoleon compelled 
the allies to retire, after dreadful 
slaughter on both sides, and very liftle 
advantage on his. On the following 
day, May 22, at the entrance of the 
village of Merkersdorf, near Reiehen- 
bach, Duroc, the most faithful and 
attached friend perhaps that he ever 
had, was killed by a cannon-ball, at the 
close of a skirmish. 

After quitting Bautzen the valley 
of the Spree is crossed by the railway 
on a long bridge. About 1 m, S. of 

Pomeritz Stat. rises the steeple of 
IToclikirch , seen on the rt., marking the 
scene of one of the most bloody battles 
of the Seven Years’ War. It was fought 
in 1746, by night. Marshal Keith, one 
of Frederick’s best generals, by birth a 
Scotchman, was killed in it; a monu¬ 
ment erected to him by Sir Robert 
Keith, English Ambassador at Vienna, 
1776, still remains behind the altar of 
the village church, though Frederick 
removed his body to Berlin. 

About 30 m. N. of Bautzen is Muskau , 
once the seat of Prince Piickler-Muskau, 
who wrote a coxcombical book about 
England. -The park is laid out in the 
English style, with considerable taste. 
Muskau is now the property of Prince 
Frederick of the Netherlands. 

Lobau Junct. Stat. Buffet. (Inn, 
Lamm, tolerable); a town of 2500 Inhab. 
In the ancient Rathhaus the deputies of 
the 6 towns of Lusatia met, during 5 
cents., from 1310 to 1814. Besides the 
German churches, there is a Wendic 
church here ; 200,000 of the inhab. of 
Lusatia are Wends (Vends) of Slavonic 
origin, differing from the Germans 
even in the present day in speech, dress, 
and manners. 

A Railway runs from Lobau by 
Herrnhut to Zittau. Length 3| Germ, 
m. Herrnhut lies about 6 Eng. m. S. 
pf Lobau. ^See Rte. 84 a.) 


The first place within the frontier of 
Prussia is 

Reichcnbach Stat. (Inn : Sonne.) 
A simple block of sandstone marked 
with the name Duroc , on the 1. of tho 
high road, marks the grave of tbe friend 
of Napoleon, who left 1000 francs to set 
up a monument to him. The ball 
which killed him was fired from a 
Russian battery. 

The valley of the Neisse is crossed 
by a Rly. Viaduct , one of the grandest 
in Germauy, ^ m. long, of 34 arches, 
60 to 80 feet span. Rt., see the 
Landskrone, 3 m. S.W. of Gorlitz. 

3~ Gorlitz Stat. ( Inns: Rheinis- 
cher Hof, at the Stat.; Prcussiseher 
Hof; Krone), a flourishing little town, 
which belonged to Saxony previous 
to 1815, and is now capital of the 
Prussian province of Upper lusatia. 
It is well situated on the slope of a hill, 
at whose base flows the Neisse, and 
has 36,700 Inhab. It retains many 
marks of antiquity; its old gates sur¬ 
mounted by towers, the finest of which 
is called Kaisertrutz (1490). Its houses, 
like the towns to the E. and those of 
Italy, are furnished with ireades. 
Much cloth and linen are male here. 
The Ch. of St. Peter and St. Pail (1428- 
1497) is one ofthe largest in Saiony, and 
has 5 aisles ; the windows of tin N. side, 
as well as the triple altar end, are 
handsome. The subterraneai chapel, 
hewn in the rock, is the olfest part. 
The Kreuzhirche , outside tie town, 
on the road to Muskau, cintains a 
representation of the even's of our 
Lord’s Passion and the loolities of 
the Holy Sepulchre. The ch. s 2 stories 
high ; in the upper one is a representa¬ 
tion of the Last Supper. Bhind this 
is a miniature copy of the Illy Sepul¬ 
chre itself. It was built [1480-89) 
by a burgomaster of Gorlitz who tra¬ 
velled to Jerusalem with ai architect 
and a painter, to copy enctly the 
original. 

The Gardens (Anlagen) oitside the 
walls, between the Weher Thor and 
Mtihlbergen, command a piecing view 
of the vale of tbe Neisse and tb viaduct. 

About 3 m. off, in the vaby of the 
Neisse, rises the picturesqri hill of 
Landskrone , surmounted by fcsalt, and 









Prussia. 


441 


ROUTE 83. —THE RIESENGEBIRGE. 


commanding a fine view. General yon 
"Winterfeldt, another favourite officer of 
Frederick the Great, fell in battle against 
the Austrians on the Holzberg, near 
Gorlitz : a monument marks the spot. 

[From Gijrlitz an excursion may be 
made into Bohemia, to the Baths of 
Liehwerda , distant about 18 m. S.E., ro¬ 
mantically situated, and provided with 
good accommodation, though retired and 
not much frequented. The waters re¬ 
semble those of Spa. There are some 
beautiful valleys around it, and in the 
neighbourhood the convent of Haindorf, 
and the old Castle of Fricdland , from 
which the celebrated Wallenstein re¬ 
ceived his title of Duke. It was pre¬ 
sented to him, with its dependent estates, 
by the Emperor Ferdinand, as a com¬ 
pensation for the property he had sacri¬ 
ficed in his cause. It now belongs to 
the Count Clam Gallas, and still contains 
some relics of Wallenstein, his portrait, 
and his sword, with collections of 
armour, pictures, &c. The Upper Castle 
was built by Wallenstein. The dun¬ 
geons beneath the thick round tower are 
horrible. Inn , am Schloss, good. 

The ascent of the Tafelfichte , 3400 ft. 
high, may be made from Liebwerda, 
from which it is about 4 m. distant. 
14 m. S. of Friedland is Reichenberg 
(Rte. 84 a).] 

Penzig Stat. 

34 Kohlfurth Junct. Stat. Here this 
railway joins that from Berlin to Breslau, 
and for the rest of the way see 
Breslau Terminus. Rte. 81. 


ROUTE 83. 

THE RIESENGEBIRGE. A. 

BUNZLAU TO HIRSCIIBEBG, WARMB11UNN, 
SCIIMIEDEBERG, AND LANDESIIUT; EX¬ 
CURSION TO ADERSBACH. 

The range of mountains separating 
Silesia from Bohemia is called Rie¬ 
sengebirge (Giant Mountains). The 
chief of this chain is the Schneekoppe 
(Snow-head), the highest mountain in 
Germany N. of the Danube, being 
4983 ft. above the sea. The outline of 
the chain is rather swelling than bold, 
but within its valleys are scenes of great 
beauty, enhanced in the eyes of the 
Germans of the N. by being contrasted 
with the wearisome flatness and mono¬ 
tony of their own country. The S. 
side, however, of the chain is preci¬ 
pitous, and in the part where the 
sources of the Elbe lie there is not a 
single pass over them for 40 m. It must 
be understood that the scenery of the 
Riesengebirge will bear no comparison 
with that of the Alps, either in eleva¬ 
tion, grandeur, or beauty. Its beauties 
are limited to a pleasing variety of hill 
and dale, wood and water, rich verdure 
and fertility of soil, numerous towns and 
villages planted in romantic vallej'S by 
the sides of rivers, inhabited by an in¬ 
dustrious population and enlivened by 
prosperous manufactures. These fea¬ 
tures give to the country an agreeable 
aspect; and, in conjunction with its 
Mineral Baths, render it annually the 
resort of a multitude of strangers. 

The best approaches to the Riesenge¬ 
birge are from Bunzlau, on the Berlin 
and Breslau railway, Rte. 81; or from 
Breslau by the railway to Freiburg, 
Rte. 84. 

The following are some of the most 
interesting points proceeding from W. 
to E., and passing from the Saxon and 
Prussian into the Austrian territory. 
The Moravian colony of Hen-nhut (p. 
448), though not within the Riesenge¬ 
birge, lies at a short distance from their 
W. extremity. The Baths of Liebwer¬ 
da, and Wallenstein’s castle of Fried- 
land, under the Tafelfichte , one of 
the highest of the range of the Rie¬ 
sengebirge, may be visited by making 
short detours from the high road. 

u 3 







442 


ROUTE 83. —LOWENBERG. HIRSCHBERG. 


Sect. VI. 


The tour of the Riesengebirge pro¬ 
perly begins at Hirschberg and Warm- 
brunn (see below), which are the most 
central points for making excursions, 
and the best head-quarters, as affording 
tolerable accommodation. Owing to 
the changeablcness of the weather, the 
ascent of the Schneekoppe , which is usu¬ 
ally made from Hirschberg or Schmie¬ 
deberg, very often does not repay the 
trouble. The river Elbe rises from the 
S. base of this mountain at the head of 
a beautiful valley. The country be¬ 
tween Hirschberg, Schmiedeberg, and 
Landshut, is the Paradise of Silesia. 

Ho one should quit the Giant Moun¬ 
tains without exploring the Labyrinth 
of Adersbach , the most singular spot 
in the district, but lying within the 
Bohemian frontier. It may be visited 
from Landshut or Waldenburg: the 
nearest towns to it are Liebau and 
Trautenau. Between Schmiedeberg and 
Breslau rises the Zobten , an isolated 
mountain, the advanced guard, as it 
were, of the Riesengebirge towards the 
H., commanding a very extensive view. 

The Riesengebirge are the theatre of 
the exploits of the mischievous spirit 
called Rubezahl , whose name is well 
translated into English by that of Num¬ 
ber Nip (i. e. turnip numberer). There 
is hardly a mountain or a glen in the 
country without its legend of this popu¬ 
lar demon. 

There are veiy good Inns at the towns 
of this district; and in remote spots on 
the mountains the traveller, not over fas¬ 
tidious, may be tolerably well accommo¬ 
dated, without any luxury,in the build¬ 
ings called Baude (Scot. Bothie), resem¬ 
bling somewhat the chalets of the Alps. 

Guides are indispensable. They are 
appointed by the local authorities in the 
Prussian territory, and receive 1 thaler 
a day, for which they carry the bag¬ 
gage. In Austria they are not licensed, 
nor is their charge fixed. Detailed in¬ 
formation respecting the most remark¬ 
able spots in the Riesengebirge is 
given in this and the following Routes. 

The traveller coming from Berlin or 
Dresden should proceed by the railways 
described in Rtes. 81 and 82, as far as 
the Bunzlau Stat. From thence an 
excellent macadamised road runs S. to 


Lowenberg. The country displays at 
every step increasing natural beauties, 
a dense population, and a fertile soil. 
A constant intermixture of wood and 
verdure, hill and dale, give a peculiar 
charm to the landscape. 

2-^ Lowenberg. Inns: H. du Roi; 
Weisses Ross. A town of 4000 Inhab. 
on the high road from Dresden to Bres¬ 
lau, and in a beautiful situation. It 
possesses an interesting Rathhaus of 
the beginning of the 15th cent.; and 
the Palace of the Prince of Hohenzol- 
lern-Hechingen containing a collection 
of paintings. AtNeuland, in the vicinity, 
are considerable quarries of gypsum and 
of millstones. When about four-fifths 
of the stage are accomplished a slight 
eminence over which the road passes 
displays to the view of the traveller the 
fertile and populous valley of Hirsch¬ 
berg, bounded by the distant range of 
the Giant Mountains, “ a ravishing 
prospect in any country.” The Schnee¬ 
koppe is seen rising in the centre. 

4| Hirschberg. Inns : In the town, 
Deutsches Haus, good; Weisses Ross, 
outside the town and close to the Post; 
Drei Berge, good, but noisy. This, the 
principal town of the district, is beauti¬ 
fully situated at the foot of the moun¬ 
tain, at the junction of 2 small streams, 
the Bober and Zacken, 1000 ft. above 
the sea, and has about 7000 Inhab. Its 
flourishing linen manufacture is reduced 
from what it was in the middle of the 
last cent., though a large quantity is 
still made here ; and this is considered 
the central point of this branch of in¬ 
dustry. It is an ancient town, still sur¬ 
rounded by a double line of walls. The 
market-place is surrounded by arcades 
like some of the Italian towns. The 
chief building is the very handsome and 
large Gothic Protestant Church, reserved 
for the reformed worship by Charles XII. 
of Sweden by a special article of the 
Treaty of Alt-Ranstadt. It has some 
military monuments in its cemetery. 

The A avalierberg, S. of the town, 
named from some strong works thrown 
up in the Seven Years’ War, and a low 
fir-clad eminence called Mount Helicon , 
are 2 agreeable places of resort in the 
neighbourhood. 

About 4 m. S.W. from Hirschberg lies 







443 


Prussia, route 83. —the riesengebirge. warmbrunn. 


Warmbrunn. Inns: Schwarzer Adler, 
good; H. do Prusse, good, extensive 
assortment of wines, among which some 
Hungai'ian wines are good ; Das lange 
Haus, near the springs, contains good 
accommodations. This is a pretty, 
retired, quiet watering-place, lying 
in one of the most romantic valleys 
of the ltiesengebirge. The visitors 
usually amount to between 2000 and 
3000 annually. July and August are 
considered the height of the season. 
The company is not so aristocratic 
as that which frequents the baths of 
Teplitz and Carlsbad. Good Prussian 
society is to be found; and the owner, 
Count SchafFgotsch, is strenuous in his 
efforts to improve the place, and is 
anxious that it should become more 
known to English travellers. The 
lukewarm sulphureous springs resemble 
those of Aix ; in temperature they vary 
from 97° to 99° Fah. They are consi¬ 
dered efficacious in cases of gout and 
rheumatism, &c., and owe their virtues 
to the presence of sulphur and alkaline 
salts : their odour is fetid and not agree¬ 
able. The principal Public Baths are 
Das Grdfliche Bad (the Count’s bath), 
and the Propstei Bad (Prior’s bath). 
They are capable of containing 30 or 40 
persons, and it is not uncommon to see 
them full of bathers of both sexes. In 
order to accommodate the great number 
of bathers they are divided into classes. 
The first class bathe first, paying 2 dol. 
a week; the 2nd pay 1 th. 10 sg., and 
follow them ; and the 3rd, chiefly poor 
people, come last, and pay very little. 
In order to enter them, a ticket of ad¬ 
mittance must be obtained from the 
master of the ceremonies. There are 
also private baths. The Russian Baths 
are the newest and best fitted up, and 
are provided with vapour baths in the 
Russian fashion. Warmbrunn origin¬ 
ally belonged to the Convent of Giis- 
sau, but is now the property of Count 
Schaffgotsch. The building called 
Gallcrie , or Gesellschaftshaus, comprises 
a ball or assembly room, and dining¬ 
room, where the best daily table-d’hote 
is to be found. The adjoining gardens 
and Park of Count Schaffgotsch, and 
the allee of poplars, afford agreeable 
walks to invalids and water-drinkers. 


Gaming of every sort is strictly forbid¬ 
den. There is a library of standard works 
open to the public in the Propstei- 
Gebaude, and a pretty little Theatre. 
Very beautiful glass of various colours, 
manufactured in Silesia, and numerous 
half-precious stones, found in the vici¬ 
nity, and cut by lapidaries on the spot, 
may be purchased here, and will serve 
as memorials of the ltiesengebirge to 
friends at home. 

Warmbrunn is, from its centrical 
situation, the best point for making Ex¬ 
cursions among the ltiesengebirge. There 
are public conveyances many times daily 
in ^ hr. hence to Hirschberg. 

At Briickenburg , on the way to the 
Schneekoppe, is an old Wooden Church of 
the 12th cent., which was purchased 
by Fred. William IV. King of Prussia 
1844, and transported hither from Wang, 
near Drontheim, in Norway, bit by bit, 
and is a curious specimen of a style 
peculiar to Scandinavia, every part be¬ 
ing of timber, much curious carving, 
particularly about the doors, and is also 
worth visiting on account of its situation 
and view. The stone towers are new. 

The small river Zachen is remarkable 
for a phenomenon not satisfactorily ex¬ 
plained. At times its waters suddenly 
disappear and cease to flow for several 
hours, after which they again burst 
forth and assume their usual level. 

On the Stangenberg, 3 m. S.W. of 
Warmbrum, a prospect tower, called 
Ileinrichsburg, has been erected by 
Prince Iteuss. It commands the most 
striking view in the neighbourhood. 

2^ m. up the valley of the Zacken, 
above Warmbrunn, is Hermsdorf, a 
village with Inns, and a Chateau of 
Count Schaffgotsch, the head-quarters 
of the Guides to the Schneekoppe, &c. 
Immediately above Hermsdorf, on the 
summit of a wooded cone of granite, 
rise the stately ruins of the Castle of 
Kynast , founded 1292, burnt down 1657 
by lightning. It is perhaps the most 
agreeable excursion from Warmbrunn, 
and is accessible by a carriage road, 
which is beset by beggars offering 
stocks, stones, fruits, and flowers for sale. 
It is perched on a rock detached from 
the main body of the mountains, and its 
walls rise grandly from the brink of 



444 


ROUTE 83. —THE RIESENGEBIRGE. SCHNEEKOPPE. Sect. VI. 


almost perpendicular precipices, so that 
it is accessible only on one side by a 
drawbridge. The view from its keep 
tower is very extensive and pleasing. 
In ancient times the daughter of a lord 
of this castle, named Kunigunde, who 
was as cold and hard-hearted as she 
was beautiful, made a vow to accept no 
one, as a lover, who should not previ¬ 
ously ride round the castle on the top 
of the outer wall. She had many 
suitors, hut upon this announcement 
the greater number retired. A few 
made the attempt, and were dashed to 
pieces in the frightful abyss. The lady 
showed no signs of compunction or pity 
—she desired to remain single, and was 
glad to be relieved from the importuni¬ 
ties of so many lovers, all of whom were 
equally indifferent to her. At last a 
knight presented himself to try the 
perilous adventure, whose manly beauty 
and engaging manners interested her so 
much that she repented of her vow, 
and beheld him with fear and trembling 
mount the wall upon his steed. To her 
great joy he performed the exploit in 
safety; but, to her surprise, when she 
advanced to throw herself into his arms 
as her destined bridegroom, instead of a 
kiss he gave her a box on the ear and a 
smart reproof, and then, leaping on his 
steed, left her in shame and amaze¬ 
ment. It was the Landgrave Albert of 
Thuringia, a married man, who, wishing 
to avenge the death of a younger bro¬ 
ther, had previously practised his steed 
in this dangerous exercise. The story 
is the subject of a poem by Korner. 

The Schneekoppe (snow-head), or Rie- 
senkoppe , the highest summit of the Rie- 
sengebirge, 4983 ft. above the sea-level, 
may easily be ascended in 5 or 6 hrs. 
from Warmbrunn. The ascent, how¬ 
ever, from Schmiedeberg is shorter than 
from Warmbrunn, and the road is good. 
The traveller who makes the ascent 
should be prepared, if he intend to pass 
the night on the mountain, to sleep on 
hay, and he will act wisely in taking 
provisions with him, as the accommoda¬ 
tion of the haude is far from good, and 
not suitable for ladies. He should also 
be prepared for mist, rains, and the 
probability of not seeing the view in 
consequence. The road usually taken 


leads by Seidorf, 1 hr. 10 min. walk, 
where guides may be found, and chairs, 
asses, and mules are kept for hire ; 
thence to the Brod Baude, 1 hr. 5 min. ; 
thence to Briickenberg, 15 min. (sec the 
Norwegian Church, above) ; and from 
it in 1 hr. 10 min. to the Hempelsbaude , 
a humble inn or chalet (where very 
tolerable refreshment may be had), only 
20 min. walk from the summit. Those 
who choose to pass the night on the 
mountain, for the sake of seeing the sun 
rise, will find better accommodation in 
the Grenzbcmde (called also Bohmische 
Baude). Hlibner’s affords the best ac¬ 
commodation. The Hungarian wine is 
good and cheap. The top of the moun¬ 
tain of granite, underlying gneiss and 
mica schist, is crowned by a small 
chapel, now converted into an 7nn, 
standing on the frontier line of Austria 
and Prussia. The prospect is extensive 
when the state of the weather allows it 
to be visible. On the side of Silesia the 
slope is most abrupt, but the sceneiy is 
rich and populous. On the S., towards 
Bohemia, it is wild and descends more 
gradually in a series of terraces inter¬ 
sected by the rugged glen of the Itiesen 
or Aupengrund, 2000 ft. below. Bres¬ 
lau, 45 m. off, is sometimes seen from 
hence, it is said. The want of water, 
however, is a great drawback in the 
landscape. In descending, the traveller 
may vary his walk by proceeding from 
the Hempelsbaude across the Rubezahl’s 
(NumberNip’s)skittle-ground, in 1 ^ hr., 
to the Graber Steine, 5 min. walk from 
St. Anne’s Chapel, where the forester’s 
house affords good refreshment, and 
return thence to Warmbrunn in If hr. 

The sources of the Elbe are situated 
under the S. roots of the Schneekoppe, 
which lies right S. from Ilirschberg. 
The Weisswasser is regarded as the 
proper source of the Elbe, and its foun¬ 
tain-head is a strong spring, which never 
fails, rising close to the Wiesenbaudc, 
4380 ft. above the sea in the Weisso 
Wiese. Another stream from the val¬ 
ley, called the Nawarer Wiese, unites 
with it in the Elbegrund. These are 
troublesome to reach, surrounded by 
marshy ground; but the vale of the 
Elbe is very picturesque. The pedes¬ 
trian has the choice of descending from 






445 


Prussia, route 83. —the riesengebirge. fisciieacii. 


the Schneekoppe into Bohemia, and pro¬ 
ceeding at once to Adersbach and its 
wonderful rocks, S.E. by Klein Aupe 
to Schatzlar (about 4 hrs.), where the 
Burgomaster’s inn is good, and near 
which the Bober rises from a well in 
the forest. Thence to Adersbach is a 
walk of 6 hrs., a beautiful and gratify¬ 
ing excursion. Or, if he prefer it, there 
are paths direct from the Schneekoppe 
to Schmiedeberg ; the time occupied in 
walking thither is about 5 hrs. 

The postf-roacUromHirschberg thither 
passes near the mine of felspar, which 
supplies material for the Berlin china. 
Half way between Hirschberg and 
Schmiedeberg lies Schloss Erdmannsdorf 
(Inn , das Schweitze Haus), seat of the 
late Gen. Gncisenau, now the property 
of the King of Prussia. King William 
IV. in 1838 gave an asylum and allotted 
land here to about 400 Tyrolese Pro¬ 
testants, who were driven out of their 
native valley, the Zillertbal, on account 
of their faith, by the intolerance of the 
Romish priesthood. The houses form¬ 
ing the colony are built by the Tyrol¬ 
ese themselves in their own peculiar 
and picturesque architecture, but the 
colonists have the character of being 
lazy and dirty. The Church was built 
from a design of Schinkel. Here is a 
large Linen Mill moved by steam. Per¬ 
sons visiting Erdmannsdorf—and it is 
well worth visiting—will do well to do 
so from Warmbrunn and not from 
Hirschberg. The distance is nearly the 
same both ways—a walk of 1^ hr.— 
but the former road is very agreeable, 
passing through the pretty village of 
Stohnsdorf, while the latter is a dead 
flat and rather uninteresting. 

Fischbach is the beautiful seat of the 
Prince Adalbert of Prussia, in a charm¬ 
ing situation, about 4 m. E. of Erd¬ 
mannsdorf. At the entrance arff 2 Sikh 
guns, given to Prince Waldemar of 
Prussia, who accompanied the English 
in the campaign against the Sikhs. 
Upon the neighbouring Marianne’s rock 
is a colossal lion (cross), of cast iron. 
Further on, near Schmiedeberg, about 1 
m. to the rt. of the road, is the Ruheberg, 
a country-house of Prince Radzevil. 
i% 2 Schmiedeberg. Inns : Schwarzes 
Ross, good ; Goldene Sterne ; Deutsches 


Haus. A manufacturing town, in a 
pleasant situation, with 3500 Inhab., 
owing its prosperity chiefly to its ex¬ 
tensive iron furnaces, mines, &c., with 
a market-place surrounded by an arcade. 
This is a favourable point from which to 
ascend the Schneekoppe. 

The road hence to Landeshut is the 
highest in Prussia practicable for car¬ 
riages, rising 2233 ft. It passes through 
a delightful country, and there are very 
fine views from near the summit, to¬ 
wards Schmiedeberg and the Schnee¬ 
koppe on one side, and towards Land- 
shut on the other. At the summit, to 
the northward, and within £ hr. walk 
from the road, is the Friesenstein, a 
group of rocks 2888 ft. above the sea 
level. The view is magnificent. 

2j Landeshut. hws : Schwarzer 
Rabe, good ; Drei Berge ; Goldener 
Lowe. Romantically situated at the 
foot of the Riesengebirge, on the Bober; 
has3500 Inhab., considerable bleaching- 
grounds and manufactures of linen. 

A bad road from Landeshut to Aders¬ 
bach by Kloster Griissau, 1 hr.'s drive ; 
Schonberg [Inns, Golden Lowe, small but 
fair) 1 h. ; Adersbach, 1| h.; Friedland, 
1 h.; AValdenburg, about 9 m. The Ch. of 
the suppressed Kloster Griissau, is a large 
16th-cent. building, containing a large 
organ and 2 14th-cent. effigies of Bolco 
Duke of Schweidnitz. Near this the 
Prussians received a severe defeat Juno 
1760, and 10,000 of them were made 
prisoners of war, with their General, 
Fouque, by the Austrians under Mar¬ 
shal Loudon. 

[The Rock Labyrinth of Adersbach is 
situated within the frontier of Bohemia, 
about 19 m. from Landshut, 17 from 
AValdenburg, and 12 from Trautenau. 
The Prussian Custom-house, on the 
road to it, is at Liebau; the Austrian 
at Konigshain. The road from Liebau 
is very bad, and only narrow axles can 
traverse it at all. 

Adersbach. Inn , Traiteur Haus, 
good and clean, but small—delicious 
mountain trout may be had here. The 
Rocks of Adersbach are a wonderful as¬ 
semblage of masses of sandstone, ex¬ 
tending in all directions over a space 3 
m. broad and 6 or 8 long, separated into 
fragments of various sizes by openings, 




446 


ROUTE 84. —BRESLAU TO SCHWEIDNITZ. 


Sect. VI. 


gulfs, and fissures. They resemble 
those of the Heuscheuer and Saxon 
Switzerland, but far surpass them in 
size and number. You walk, as it 
were, in a narrow street, with immense 
smooth walls on each side of you, open¬ 
ing here and there into squares, whence 
is obtained a view of the countless num¬ 
ber of giant rocks which surround you 
on all sides. This locality does not 
present the extraordinary natural figures 
existing at the Heuscheuer: the won¬ 
der of Adersbach consists in the vast 
size and number of rocks here clustered 
together. The entrance to the rocks 
is closed by a door, which is opened 
on payment of 2^ S. gr., and the 
guide receives from a party 7 or 8 
S. gr. The path is in places so narrow 
that you can walk only in Indian file. 
A rivulet, clear as silver, traverses the 
intricacies of the labyrinth, and at the 
end, or spot where travellers usually 
turn back (after an hour’s walk), it 
forms a pretty waterfall, which plays 
by opening a sluice (!). Near the en¬ 
trance is a fine echo. By moonlight 
the aspect of the rocks is highly roman¬ 
tic. In number the rocks amount to 
many thousands, and often rise to a 
height of more than 200 ft., the highest 
being 280 ft. So numerous and intri¬ 
cate are the passages among them that 
they form a complete labyrinth, among 
which there is danger of losing one’s 
way without a guide. There can be 
little doubt that the whole was at one 
time a continuous and solid stratum of 
sandstone, and that it owes its present 
form to the passage over it of floods or 
currents of running water, which, hav¬ 
ing found their way into the crevices 
and clefts, have gradually worn down 
the softer parts into gutters and chan¬ 
nels. ' The rocks, like those of the Saxon 
Switzerland, belong to the formation 
called by the Germans Quadersandstein, 
corresponding with the green sand of 
England. Something of the same sort 
occurs in the “High Bocks” near Tun¬ 
bridge Wells. Adersbach is certainly a 
curiosity without parallel in Europe, 
and well deserves to be visited.] 

Landeshut is on the road between 
Breslau and Prague, described iu Bte. 
84. 


ROUTE 84. 

TIIE RIESENGEBIRGE. B. 

BRESLAU TO SCHWEIDNITZ, LANDESHUT, 

ADERSBACH, AND BY TRAUTENAU TO 

PRAGUE IN BOHEMIA. 

Railroad from Breslau to Freiburg, 
7f Germ. m. = 35^ Eng. m. long, with 
a branch to Schweidnitz. Trains in 2 
hrs. Schnellpost daily from Freiburg. 
The road is macadamised. 

Kanth Stat. 

14 m. from Breslau, and a few m. to 
the rt. of the road, is Krieblowitz, where 
Marshal Bliicher lived and died (1819). 
He is buried in the open air by the 
roadside, under the shade of 3 lime-trees, 
as yet without a monument. E. is seen 
the Zobtenberg, an isolated mountain, 
rising out of the plain, and commanding 
a wide prospect over Silesia. 

Ingramsdorf Stat. 

Metkau Stat. A personenpost runs 
daily from the Stat. to Rosenthal (a 
good and moderate Inn), near Goskau, 
about 15 m. off, at the foot of the Zob¬ 
tenberg, the Rigi of Silesia, whose top 
may be reached in 1£ hr.’s walk : it is 
covered with shattered blocks of granite. 
The view commands the Moravian and 
Silesian mountains, the Sehneeberg, the 
Heuscheuer, fortress of Silbcrberg, Rie- 
senkoppe, and a more picturesque, 
though not So extensive a panorama as 
that from the Schneekoppe. 

Ivonigszelt Junct. Stat. [Hence the 
branch Railway runs to 

Schweidnitz (Inns : Krone ; Lbwe), 
a beautifully situated town on the Weis- 
tritz, with 1(5,438 Inhab. It was for- 






Prussia. 


ROUTE 84. —FREIBURG. ARNAU. 


447 


merly a strong fortress, but the greater 
part of its works were demolished by 
the French in 1806. The parish Ch. y 
a Gothic building (date 1330), is sur¬ 
mounted by a tower 320 ft. high. The 
Castle, formerly the residence of the Piast 
Dukes, has now become a poor-house.] 

Freiburg Stat. ( Inn : Burg), a town 
of 2000 Inhab., having a large steam 
flax-spinning mill. Omnibus runs from 
the stat. to Fiirstenstein and Salz- 
brunn. The Fiirstenstein Grund or Glen 
is a very picturesque narrow rocky 
valley, hemmed in by wooded cliffs 
300 ft. high, traversed by the Hollen- 
bach, and not unlike the scenery of the 
Bosstrappe in the Harz. A winding 
path leads up to the Alte Burg , an imi¬ 
tation castle built at the beginning of 
the present century, containing some 
old tapestry, armour, and family por¬ 
traits. Ascending the valley, you come 
to the modern Schloss Fiirstenstein , seat 
of Count Hoehberg, surrounded by 
gardens and pleasure-grounds. 

9 m. N. is the battle-field of Striegau , 
gained by Frederick the Great in 1745 ; 
in the vicinity was his fortified camp 
of Bunzelwitz. 

5 m. from Freiburg are the Baths of 
Salzbrunn (Inns: Elisenhof; Kursaal; 
Krone), a long village, frequented on 
account of its alkalo-saline spring, but 
dull, and scarcely worth stopping at. 

Waldenburg Stat., 6 m. S. of Freiberg, 
is a good station for visiting the rocks of 
Adersbach , about 17 m. distant. A coach 
and pair (zweispanner) from Salzbrunn 
and back costs 4 dollars — to go and 
return—time 4 h. to and 4 h. back. It 
is a hilly road, passing 1. the castle of 
Neuhaus , ruined 1418 in the Hussite war. 
Beyond Friedland the road to Adersbach 
turns 1. W., and the Bohemian frontier | 
is crossed. The Austrian customhouse j 
is at Merkelsdorf. Passports are not I 
required. Biegel’s Inn at Merkelsdorf I 
is fair and cheap; fine trout and good ! 
Hungarian wine. 

Eilicagen to Hirschberg daily, by 
Landshut, 7£ Germ. m. The road 
from Freiburg to Landeshut is hilly. 

lj Eeichenau. 


2 Landeshut (Inn : Drei Bcrgc). The 
Austrian and Prussian frontier is crossed 
beyond Liebau, where the Prussian 
custom-house stands; the Austrian 
custom-house is at Konigshain. 

4 Trautenau.— Inn: Weisses Ross, 
best, but not very good. The first 
town in the Austrian territory; Pop. 
2400. Much linen is made here. 
Adersbach is about 12 m. off", in a direct 
line. 

2 Arnau (or Nieder Oels) has 2300 
Inhab., chiefly weavers. It lies on 
the Elbe, which takes its rise about 
25 m. N. of this, among the roots 
of the Schneekoppe. A pleasant ex¬ 
cursion may be made to the source, fol¬ 
lowing its banks, and passing the pretty 
town of Hohenelbe (Inn: Schwarzer 
Adler, middling), and the cascades of 
Elbfall and Weisswasscr. 

2 Neu Paka; the Post. 

2 Gitsehin.— -Inn : Goldener Lowe. 
The castle was built by Wallenstein, 
1610. Gitsehin was stormed by the 
Prussians, June 29, 1866. 

2 Sobotka. 

3 Jung-Bunzlau. This town of 5000 
Inhab., on the Iser, manufactures much 
printed cotton. Tycho Brahe died, 
1601, in the small town of Neu Bena- 
tek, not far from 

2 Alt-Benatek. In the town of Alt 
Bunzlau, opposite Brandeis, is an image 
of the Virgin, which attracts many pil¬ 
grims. At the door of the Collegiate 
Church, Boleslaw, King of Bohemia, 
murdered, at the instigation of Drabo- 
mira, his brother Wcnceslaus, who was 
afterwards canonised, and now ranks 
as a patron saint of Bohemia. Beyond 
this the road crosses the Elbe by a 
bridge to 

2 Brandeis. 

3 Prague. Handbook of S. Germany . 









448 


ROUTE 84 A.—DRESDEN TO ZITTAU. 


Sect. VI. 


ROUTE 84 a. 

DRESDEN TO ZITTAU AND REICHENBERG, 
BY HERRNHUT. 

The railroad from Dresden to Bres¬ 
lau (Rte. 82) is followed as far as 

Lobau Junct. Stat., where a branch 
railroad, 3| Germ. m. long, strikes off S. 
to Herrnhut, Zittau, and Reichenberg. 

Herrnhut Stat. (Inn, Gemeinlogis; very- 
good) is the mother colony of the sect 
of Moravians, or Herrnhuters. It was 
established by fugitives, driven from 
Austria by the persecution of the 
Jesuits,'1721-25. They were received 
by Count Zinzendorf, a Saxon noble¬ 
man, who granted them an asylum and 
lands on this spot, and is considered 
as their founder. Near the highway, 
in the midst of a wood intersected by 
pleasant walks, a monument marks the 
place where he caused the first tree to 
be felled in 1722, to clear ground for 
the settlement, the country being then 
a vast forest. The community derives 
its name of “ Hcrrnhuter,” i. e. “ the 
Lord’s watch,” from a passage in the 
84th Psalm, “ Den Thiir hiiten in 
meines Gottes Hause,” — “to watch 
the door in the house of my God.” 
It is now a flourishing little formal 
town, of 1400 Inhab., .distinguished by 
the order, stillness, and cleanliness 
which prevail in it; situated in the 
midst of a somewhat tame country of 
undulating hills, now nearly cleared of 
wood. It is the seat of a bishop, and 
the central point of the government 
and commerce of the sect, which, in 
1832, numbered 42 settlements in dif¬ 
ferent parts of the world. The Mora¬ 
vians profess the doctrines of the Con¬ 
fession of Augsburg; but, excepting 
their love for music and toleration of 
dancing, they bear some resemblance 
to the Quakers, especially in the plain¬ 
ness of their dress. The female cos¬ 
tume is distinguished by variously 


coloured ribbons. Tho girls wear deep 
red ; unmarried women pink; married, 
blue; and widows, grey or white. 
The meeting-house, the sale-rooms for 
the articles manufactured here, and the 
Cemetery of the community on tho 
Ilutberg, all deserve to be visited. The 
Cemetery is a very interesting spot, 
commanding a lovely prospect. It is 
surrounded by a tall hedge of horn¬ 
beam, and intersected by avenues of the 
same, between which are laid the flat 
gravestones, quite plain, and bearing 
merely the name, and dates of birth 
and death. Those of the Zinzendorf 
family, in the centre, alone are dis¬ 
tinguished from the rest by their larger 
dimensions. That of the founder bears 
an inscription commemorating his 
bounty. Above the Friedhof rises the 
Ilutberg , or watch-hill, a sort of cliff or 
group of rocks, surmounted by a temple 
or look-out house, commanding a fine 
panorama,—a wide prospect over the 
town, the estate bequeathed by Count 
Zinzendorf to the colony, Berchtolds- 
dorf, containing the house where he 
died, and in the distance the hill called 
the Saxon Crown. 

The Museum of natural history, col¬ 
lected by Moravian missionaries in the 
most distant corners of the earth, is 
interesting. The Herrnhuters are an 
industrious community : the linen ma¬ 
nufacture of Saxony may be said to 
owe its development to them. 

Zittau Stat. (Inns: Sonne, good; 
Saxischer Hof), a fine and prosperous 
manufacturing town of 15,600 Inhab., 
on the Noisse. It is the centre of the 
linen trade of Saxony; and in its im¬ 
mediate vicinity cotton and woollen 
manufactures are extensively carried 
on. A splendid modern Rcithhaus (1844). 
and the Byzantine Ch. of St. John , fi¬ 
nished 1836, are objects of interest. 
From its proximity to the Bohemian 
frontier it enjoys a considerable traffic 
with that country. The mountains 
which here form the Saxon boundary 
rise to a commanding height. 

Less than 5 m. S.W. of Zittau, on 
the summit of a hill shaped like a bee¬ 
hive, called Oybin , placed in the midst 
of a caldron-shaped valley, stand the 
ruins of a castle and the extensive 







ROUTE 85. —BRESLAU TO PRAGUE. 


449 


Prussia. 

monastery of Oybin. Hero is a beau¬ 
tiful chapel in the best pointed style, 
partly cut in the rock, but now a ruin. 
It stands in a cave or recess in the face 
of the cliff, and commands an extensive 
view over forest and valley. The ruins 
are easily found, as they are visible 
from Zittau, and may bo reached by a 
fair walker in about 2 hrs. 

From Zittau excursions may be made 
to Wallenstein’s castle Friedland , 9 m. 
to the E., and to the Baths of Lieb- 
werda. 

The Railway is continued from 
Zittau up the industrious valley of the 
Neisse, within Bohemia, to 

33 Reichenberg Stat. (Inn : Goldencr 
Lowe ; middling), the most rising 
manufacturing town in Bohemia, 
second to Prague alone in population, 
having 15,000 Inhab. Its manufac¬ 
ture of linen is very flourishing and of 
great importance. 

This town is connected' with Vienna 
and Prague by Rail, by Reichenau, 
Turnau, Josephstadt, Kdniggratz, and 
Fardubitz Junct. See S. Germany. 


ROUTE 85. 

BRESLAU TO GLATZ AND PRAGUE, BY 
THE IIEUSCIIEUER. 

27 Pruss. m. = 125| Eng. m. to the 
Pardubitz station on the Prague and 
Vienna railway. 

Railway branching to Waldenburg 
and Frankenstein, but the distance 
between these stations and Glatz and 
Nachod must be travelled by coach, 
taking 8 ^ hrs. 

The country is pretty and fertile, 
rt. The Zobtenberg (see Rte. 84) is con¬ 
spicuous ; it is about 10 m. distant 
from 

Kanth Stat. 

Kdnigszelt Junct. Stat. Here railways 
branch to Liegnitz ; 1. to Freiburg and 
Waldenburg (Rte. 84 a) j rt. to Reichen- 


bach and Frankenstein. At Kosemitz 
are Chrysoprase Mines (now disused), and 
near Protzen there is a mine of opal. 

2 Frankenstein Stat.— Inns: Deut¬ 
sches Ilaus; Sehwarzer Adler. A town 
of 6000 Inhab., burnt 1858. 7 m. W. 

is the mountain fortress of Silberberg; it 
may be called the Gibraltar of Prussia, 
in so far as its defences, bastions, case¬ 
mates, &c., are almost entirely hewn 
out of the solid rock. They were con¬ 
structed by Frederick the Great, to 
guard the passage from Bohemia, at an 
expense of 4^ millions of Prussian dols. 

The Rom. Cath. Church , in the mar¬ 
ket-place of the little town of Wartha 
(through which the road passes), con¬ 
tains a miracle-working statue of the 
Virgin, to whose shrine, in some years, 
40,000 pilgrims repair to offer up their 
vows and prayers. A steep road, 
marked by chapels, leads up to the 
chapel on the Wartaberg , at a height of 
1772 ft. above the sea; the view from 
thence is fine. The banks of the river 
Neisse are very picturesque; near the 
town it forces a passage through the 
rocky gorge called Warthapass. After 
a steep ascent and descent, the road 
enters Glatz over a wooden bridge, be¬ 
tween the ancient and modern fortress. 
A fine view over the basin-shaped val¬ 
ley forming the county of Glatz, and of 
Bohemian mountains beyond. 

3 5 Glatz. — Inns: Weisses Ross; 
Rhone ; both in the suburb. A strong 
fortress on the Neisse, having about 
11,800 Inhab., garrison included. 
Capital of a county belonging to Prussia, 
but stretching into Austrian territory. 
Its outworks have been extended since 
1850, so as to convert it into a fortified 
camp. Macadamised roads diverge 
from it in various directions. A per¬ 
mission from the commandant is ne¬ 
cessary to view the works. The statue 
of St. John Nepomuk was placed upon 
the donjon, by order of Frederick the 
Great, after he had taken the fortress. 

15 m. S.E. of Glatz are the baths 
of Landeck , in a picturesque countiy, 
with an excellent trout-stream running 
through it. Inns: Weisser Lowe; 
Schlossel; Goldene Krone. The waters 
are tepid, sulphurous. The town is a 
mile distant from the Baths; it is a 










450 


ROUTE 85 A.—BRESLAU TO CRACOW. 


Sect. VI. 


good station for visiting the Sudetic 
mountains, at the head of which is the 
Schneeberg , 4412 ft. above the sea- 
level. 36 m. beyond Landeck, through 
Jawornik (a bad road), is the Water- 
Cure Establishment of Vincent Priess- 
nitz at Griifenberg, a village in the 
Austrian territory, 18 m. from Neisse. 

3' Reinerz.— Inns: Goldene Krone ; 
Schwarzer Bar. A small town of 
2100 Inhab., surrounded by mountains. 
About a mile off, in a secluded valley, 
are some mineral Baths , not now much 
frequented. A few miles N. of Peinerz 
rises the Heuscheuer , or Heuscheune 
(Hay-barn, so called from its shape). 
Avast assemblage of detached masses 
of rock, many of them formed into the 
most curious shapes, from the sculp¬ 
turing of nature, and named after 
various objects, to which they hear a 
very exact resemblance. The most 
perfect likenesses are those of a 
“bear,” a “camel,” a “seal” (See- 
hund), a “Moor’s head,” and a “laugh¬ 
ing profile,”—all natural productions. 
The highest point is the Grossvatersstuhl 
(Grandfather’s Chair), 2800 ft. above 
the sea: from it the Carpathians arc 
visible. The key of this very curious 
mountain is kept at Karlsberg, a little 
village on the W. side of it. Good ac¬ 
commodation may be found at the 
new Schweitzer Haus on the N. slope. 

Hot far from this is the village of 
Albendorf, remarkable for containing 
a much frequented Pilgrimage Church, 
with several minor chapels and sta¬ 
tions, ornamented with figures of saints, 
and rude paintings representing the his¬ 
tory of Christ. In the printed de¬ 
scriptions of this town it is called a 
second Jerusalem; and in order to make 
out a resemblance to the real Jerusalem 
it has twelve gates; while a stream 
running through it is called Brook 
Kedron ; and the pool of Bethesda, the 
house of St. Anne, and the palace of 
the High Priest, all have their repre¬ 
sentatives within the walls. The tra¬ 
veller puts up or is taken in at the 
Judgment-hall of Pilate! 

The last Prussian village is Lewin; 
beyond it is the Austrian custom-house. 
About 4 m. from Lewin, off the road, 
lies Cudowa, whose mineral springs 


furnish a chalybeate, very strongly 
impregnated with carbonic acid gas. 
There arc 2 lodging-houses and an 
assembly-room on the spot. The in¬ 
habitants of the village are chiefly 
descendants of Bohemian Hussites. 

3 Nachod.— Inn: Lamm. The first 
town in Bohemia; it has 2200 Inhab., 
chiefly weavers. Its Castle , now be¬ 
longing to the Prince of Schaumberg- 
Lippe, is said by some to be the birth¬ 
place of the renowned Wallenstein; it 
belonged to his brother-in-law, Terzki, 
and at their death was confiscated, and 
bestowed upon the traitor Piccolomini. 
It commands a fine view of the whole 
range of the Biesengebirge. Nachod is 
a good starting-point to explore these 
mountains. Near it runs a branch rail¬ 
way to Pardubitz by, 

2 5 Jaromierz Stat., on the Elbe. Near 
this, on the 1 . bank of the river, stands 
the fortress of Josephstadt. — Inn: bei 
Wesseley, very good. 

2 a Koniggratz Stat., Buffet {Inn: 
Goldenes Lamm), another fortress, with 
4500 Inhab., lies on the Elbe, at the 
influx of the Adler, more than a mile 
from the stat. The Cathedral , and the 
Church and Convent , which formerly 
belonged to the Jesuits , are the most 
remarkable buildings. Much cloth is 
made here. Much fighting here in 1866. 

9 m. N.AV. between Bistritz and the 
Elbe was fought, July 3, 1866, the 
Battle of Sadowa, in which the Prussians 
defeated Bencdek, strongly posted near 
Chlum. 

Beyond Opatowitz Stat. the rly. 
crosses the Elbe on a bridge near 600 
ft. long, to reach 

Pardubitz Junct. Stat. on the Prague 
and Vienna Railway, whence trains run 
in 4 hrs. to 

Prague. Handbook of S. Germany. 


* ROUTE 85 a. 

BRESLAU TO CRACOW.—RAILWAY. 

34£ Germ. m.=160 Eng. m. Trains 
to Myslowitz in 5—to Cracow in 8 h. 

This railway, as far as the Prussian 
and Austrian frontier, is called the 



Prussia. 

Upper Silesian Railway (Oberschlesische 
Eisenbahn.) 

Breslau. Boutc 81. 

1^; Cattern Stat. ) It ascends the val- 
li Leisewitz Stat.) ley of the Oder, 
f Ohlau Stat. (Inn: GoldeneKrone), 
on the 1. bank of the Oder, has a palace 
and a picture gallery. 

2 | Bricg Stat, Inn : Goldenes Kreutz. 
On the 1. bank of the Oder, with 12,000 
Inhab. The palace here was formerly 
the residence of the Dukes of Bricg. 
A little to the W. is the battle-field of 
Mollwitz , where Frederick the Great 
defeated the Austrians. 10 Apr. 1741. 

[From Brieg a branch Illy, runs by 
(3) Grottkau to the town of (3£) Neisse 
(18,750 Inhab.). Inns: Stern; Krone. 
6 £ Germ. m. 4 Germ. m. S. of this on 
the post-road is Freiwaldau (Inns: 
Kronprinz; Silber Krone), near which 
is the celebrated Water-Cure Establish¬ 
ment of Grafenberg, founded by the late 
V. Priessnitz. There are 5 lodging- 
houses ; charges for rooms 2 to 4 florins 
a-week. Board is charged 1 fl. a-day. 
3 monuments have been set up to 
Priesnitz, and a chapel to his wife. 

It lies within Austrian territory.] 

1 £ Lossen Stat. 

1 Lowen Stat. After leaving this the 
railroad crosses the Neisse and the Oder, 
just before reaching 

3 OppelnStat. (Inns: Schwarzer Ad¬ 
ler, good; Sachsischer Hof), the capi¬ 
tal of Upper Silesia, with 6800 Inhab.; 
formerly the residence of the Dukes of 
Silesia. Here is an old Church. 

2 f Gogolin Stat. About 1 Germ. m. 
beyond this station, and at about the 
same distance from the railroad, is the 
Annaberg, on the summit of which 
stands a building, formerly a Franciscan 
convent, containing a miraculous image. 
It is a greatly frequented place of pil - 
grimage, especially on St. Anna’s day. 

The railroad crosses the river Klod- 
nitz and its canal to 

2 f Kan dr z in Stat. On the opposite 
bank of the Oder, which is crossed by 
a wooden bridge, lie the town and 
fortress of Kosel, 2900 Inhab. At this 
station the railway which connects the 
Upper Silesian Bailway with the 
Prague and Vienna Bail way turns off 
S, to Batibor. (See Bte. 85 b.) The 


451 

railway to Cracow runs E. up the 
valley of the Klodnitz to 

2 Iludzienietz Stat. 

2 5 Gleiwitz Stat. (Inn: Adler.) An 
old town of 9000 Inhab. on the Klod¬ 
nitz, in the mining district of Upper 
Silesia. There are considerable iron¬ 
works in the town and in the neigh¬ 
bourhood, also many iron mines. 

The railway passes on the 1. Zabrze, 
where are iron-works, to 

2 Konigshiitte (King’s foundry) Stat.: 
here are largo iron-works. The steel- 
iron works are celebrated in Germany 
for smelting iron ore by means of coke. 
There are 80 furnaces, besides 30 zinc 
furnaces, coal-mines, &c.; rolling mills, 
foundries. Chimneys rise on all sides. 

3 Myslowitz Stat. Beyond this the 
railway crosses the river Schwarze 
Przemsa, which was the boundary of 
Silesia and the territory of the republic 
of Cracow, and now divides Silesia from 
the Austrian dominions. At Szczkowa 
the Railway to Warsaw branches N. 

At Oswiecim Junct. Stat. the lily, from 
Vienna to Cracow is entered. 

8 j Cracow Stat.— Inns: La Bose 
Blanche; II. de Bussie; Goldener Anker; 
Konig v. Ungarn. 37,000 Inhab. Since 
1846 this has been an Austrian city be¬ 
longing to the province of Galicia. Up 
to that time it was a Free Town, and 
the last remnant of the once great king¬ 
dom of Poland. (See, for description of 
Cracow, Handbook of S. Germany.) 


EOUTE 85 b. 

BRESLAU TO VIENNA.—RAILWAY. 

Express trains in 13 hrs. 

Proceed by the Upper Silesian Bail¬ 
way (Oberschlesische Bahn) as far as 

Kandrzin or Kosel Stat. (16 Germ, 
m., 4 hrs.), as in Bte. 85 a. At 
Kandrzin a railway, which between 
this and the Austrian frontier is called 


ROUTE 85 B.—BRESLAU TO VIENNA. 






452 


ROUTE 85 B.—BRESLAU TO VIENNA. 


Sect. VI. 


the Wilhelm*s Balm , branches off to the 
S. Those parts of Silesia and Moravia 
which are traversed by the railway are 
very pretty. 

2 (Germ. m. from Kandrzin) Ham¬ 
mer Stat. 

2 Ratibor Stat. Inn , Jaschhes 
von Stat. A town of 6000 Inhab., on 
the Oder, which here becomes navi¬ 
gable. Persons wishing to divide the 
journey between Breslau and Vienna 
may make Ratibor their sleeping quar¬ 
ters. The Prince of Prussia there is j 


the best hotel. From Breslau to Rati¬ 
bor will occupy about 6 hrs., from 
Ratibor to Vienna 12 or 13. 

Odcrberg Junct. Stat. Here is the 
Austrian frontier. The railway, called 
the Kaiser- Ferdinands-Nordbakn, con¬ 
nects this with Vienna. The distance 
is 37 Germ, m., and the time occupied 
in the journey 8^ to 10 hrs. At Prerau 
this line joins that from Prague by 
Olmiitz to Vienna. (See, for the rest of 
this Route, Handbook of S. Germany.) 





( 453 ) 


SECTION VII. 

SAXONY. 


Introductory Information.—52. Money.— 53. Posting. 


ROUTE PAGE 

86 . Frankfurt on the Main to 

Leipzig, by Fulda, Eise¬ 
nach, Gotha, Erfurt, and 
Weiinai — Kail - - 454 

87. Leipzig to Dresden — Rail¬ 

way - 466 

88. The Saxon Switzerland and 

the Elbe (A). Dresden to 
Pillnitz, the Bastei, Kdnig- 
stein, Schandau, Kuhstall, 
Prebischthor, and Hirni- 
skretschen— Railway - 488 

90. Dresden to Hof in Bavaria, by 
the Valley of Plauen, Frei¬ 
berg, and Chemnitz — Kail 495 


ROUTE PAGE 

91. Leipzig to Hof, by Altenburg 

and Werdau —Railway - 499 
91 a. Leipzig to Carlsbad - - 501 

92. Cassel to Coburg, by Eisenach 

and Meiningen— Railway .. 501 

93. Gottingen to Gotha, Coburg, 

and Bamberg; the Thurin- 
gian Forest : — Baths of 
Liebenstein, % and Schmal- 
kalden - 504 

94. Leipzig to Coburg, by Jena, 

Rudolstadt, Sonneberg, Pau- 
linzelle, &c. - 506 

94 n. Erfurt to Coburg - - 507 


52. money. 


Saxony has now adopted the same currency as Prussia and the other States of 
the Zollverein (§ 47), of which the dollar is the unit. See § 47. 

Accounts must be kept in Neugroschen = silver groschen of Prussia, of which 
30 make a thaler. 

T 2 thaler (f 1 - lb.) 1 

Silver Coins ■/ 1 do. ( 3 ^ lb.) > See § 47. 

( ^l of a dollar j 

Kassen Scheine. —Notes of Saxony are in use as well as those of Prussia. 
The Leipzig and Dresden Railroad Company has also been allowed to issue paper 
money, but it is not taken at the public offices nor at theatres. 

Prussian copper money is not current in Saxony, and Prussian notes arc 
[ refused at the Dresden post-office. 

Gold Coins. 

s. d. 

Augustus, or piece of 5 dollars, = 16 5£ 

Half do. - - - - 8 2 f 

Ducat - * - - - .95 


53. posting tariff. 

The posting tariff is now the same as in Prussia (§ 48, p. 234). 12 | Ncu- 

groschen per horse each German m., and 15 N. gr. for a courier’s horse. 

The long miles of Saxony are also abandoned for the Prussian mile. 










454 


ROUTE 86.—FRANKFURT TO LEIPZIG. 


Sect. VII. 


ROUTES. 


KOUTE 86. 

FRANKFURT ON THE MAIN TO LEIPZIG, 

BY FULDA,EISENACH,GOTHA, ERFURT, 

AND WEIMAR.— RAILWAY. 

From Frankfurt to Eisenach, 23 
Germ. m.= 1073 Eng. m. Illy. Trains 
from Frankfurt to Leipzig in 11-12 hrs. 

Thuringian Railway from Eisenach to 
Leipzig, 25 Germ.m. = 116| Eng. m. 

Between Frankfurt and Leipzig this 
road passes through the territories of 7 
different states, most of which are 
now attached to Prussia and absorbed 
in the North German Confederation. 
About 4 m. from Frankfurt it enters 
the Electorate of Hesse Cassel. The 
Electoral chateau, .called Phillipsruhe , 
on the banks of the Main, is near 
Hanau. 

The Baths of "Wilhelmsbad, oc- 
cupying a deserted chateau in the midst 
of neglected gardens, are resorted to 
by the Frankfurters; their chief at¬ 
tractions are the walks in the wood. 

2 Hanau, Stat.— Inns: Ivarlsberg ; 
Biese. This is the most considerable 
town of Hesse after Cassel, having 19,200 
Inhab.; it is situated near the junction of 
the Kinzig with the Main in the most 
fertile part of the Wetterau. It was 
defended by Ramsay, a Scotchman, for 
9 months, against the Imperialists in 
the 30 Years’ War. On quitting the 
town, the road passes the Battle-field, 
of October 30 and 31, 1813, where 
Napoleon, retreating from Leipzig with | 
the wreck of his army, cut his way 
through the Bavarians and Austrians. 
The loss of the allies exceeded that of 
the French; it would have been greater, 
hut for the manoeuvre of a miller, who, 1 
observing the German infantry hard ! 
pressed by a body of French cavalry, 
suddenly let the water into his mill- 
stream, between the twoparties, and thus 
secured the retreat of his own friends. 


The hills on the 1. are the Taunus, 
those on the rt. the Spcssart chain. The 
chateau of Langenselbold was pur¬ 
chased by Don Miguel in 1854. 

Meerholz Stat. 

3 Gelnhausen Stat.— (Inns: Hirsch; 
Hessischcr Hof, a clean country 
inn) stands on the Kinzig, and has 
3700 Inhab. It was once an Imperial 
city of note, having been chosen as a 
residence by the Emp. Frederick Bar- 
barossa. The ruins of his Palace , built 
about 1144, still exist on an island in 
the Kinzig, in the lower part of the 
town, but are fast going to decay. The 
massive masonry exhibits traces of By¬ 
zantine architecture; arcades of round 
arches supported by short pillars with 
foliated capitals and panelling re¬ 
sembling basket work. The Imperial 
Chapel and Reichssaal, where the Diet 
of 1180 was held, are shown; also “ the 
throne of Barbarossa,” which appears 
to be nothing more than the supporting 
shafts of a large fireplace which had a 
projecting hood. 

The Pfarrkirch also is interesting in 
an architectural point of view, as 
it was built 1210 - 1220 , and shows 
the transition from the Bound into 
the Pointed style, and proves the late 
introduction into Germany of the 
Pointed style. It has many peculiar-* 
ities, as—an inclined tower, a cupola, a 
mixture of round and pointed arches, 
Wood-work, and old triptychs, a stone 
screen, with altar towards the nave. 
The doorways and capitals of the co* 
lumns are richly ornamented, and the 
windows, are filled with fine stained 
glass. In the outer wall are inscrip¬ 
tions recording remarkable events, as 
the price of grain in years of scarceness, 
earthquakes, floods, &c. The pass of 
Gelnhausen is one of the most important 
military points in Central Germany. 

The greater part of the next stage 
lies through a corner of Bavaria. 
Saalmimster Stat. Inn: Post. 






455 


Saxony. route 86.—eisenach. wartburg. 


Schliichtem Stat. Inn: Goldene 
Sonne. 

[14 m. to the E. lie the Baths of 
Briickenau, a much frequented water¬ 
ing-place. (See Handbook of South 
Germany, Rte. 169.) The road thither 
is improved, but is very hilly. The 
stage of 3 Germ. m. takes 3j hrs.; or 
4£ hrs. from Frankfurt.] 

Neuhof Stat. 

11 Fulda Stat.— Inns: Kurfurst (Elec¬ 
tor), Post. A walled town of 10,000 
Inhab. (2000 Protestants, 600 Jews), on 
the Fulda, a beautiful stream winding 
through a fertile valley. Principal 
buildings — the Cathedral , a hand¬ 
some modern edifice, the fourth 
church which has stood on this site. 
Nothing remains of the old building 
but the crypt, containing the shrine 
of St. Boniface, in which was once 
deposited his body, now reduced to 
a fragment of his skull. Here are two 
old figures of Charlemagne and of a 
Scottish princess on horseback, said to 
have been converted and brought over 
to Germany by St. Boniface; also, in 
the sacristy, his crosier of ivory, and 
the dagger with which he was murdered 
by the Frisians, a. d. 754. 

St. Michael's is a very remarkable 
round ch. t founded 822. The existing 
crypt , probably of that age, is supported 
in the centre by a stunted column, with 
a rude Ionic capital; a circular passage 
surrounds it. The circular nave and 
dome, resting on S pillars, were built in 
1092. 

Most of the monasteries here have 
been turned to secular purposes. The 
Palace was formerly the residence of the 
prince-bishops, to whom Fulda belonged. 
A statue of St. Boniface has been erected 
in the open space before it. 

Diligence daily to Bruckenau. 

Berghaun Stat. Neukirchcn Stat. 

Hersfeld Stat. Town of 6800 Inhab. 

Bebra June. Stat., on the Fulda 
river. We here enter upon the rly. 
from Cassel to Coburg. Rte. 92. 

Gerstungen Stat., on the Werra. 

2 Hiinfeld Stat. Near the end of 
this stage the road quits Hesse Cassel, 
and enters Saxe Weimar. 

The road enters upon the Thiirin - 


gerwald (Thuringian Forest); a great 
portion of the country is covered with 
unbroken wood. Near Eisenach, the 
castle of the Wartburg, Luther’s pri¬ 
son, is seen on the summit of a hill on 
the rt. 

2 Eisenach June. Stat.— Inns: H. 
de G. D. de Saxe, close to Stat., 
best; *Halber Mond ; Rautenkranz 
(Rue Garland, in the town). 
This is the principal town of the 
Thiivingerwald; it is clean, thriving, 
and industrious (Pop. 12,950), and is 
prettily situated, encircled by wooded 
hills. Sebastian Bach was born here. 
The oldest building is the Nicolaithurm, 
a tower and gate, the arch of which re¬ 
sembles Roman work, near the railway. 
The Gardens of M. Eichel are pretty,and 
command fine views; tickets to see them 
may be had at his office in the town. 

A good carriage road, to be sur¬ 
mounted in ^ hr.’s walk (fiacre, up 
and down, 1 thal. 10 S. gr.), of con¬ 
tinued ascent, of 600 ft., leads to the 
Castle of Wartburg, the ancient residence 
of the Landgraves of Thuringia, but 
more remarkable as the asylum of Lu¬ 
ther from May 4, 1521, to March 6, 
1522. It was while returning from the 
Diet of Worms, where he had so nobly 
stood forth in defence of his faith, 
unmoved by threats or cajoling, and 
had thereby incurred the papal excom¬ 
munication, that, onreachingthc borders 
of the Thuringian forest, he was way¬ 
laid by a party of armed and vizored 
knights, his attendants dispersed, and 
himself made prisoner. So secretly 
was the capture effected, that no one 
knew for a time what had become of 
him; even Luther himself, it is believed, 
at the moment of his seizure, was not 
aware that the whole was merely the 
device of his friend the Elector of 
Saxony, adopted with the view of 
rescuing him from the dangers which 
at that moment threatened his life. 
He was silently conveyed away to the 
Wartburg, where he passed for a young 
nobleman, wearing a suitable dress, 
allowing his mustaches to grow, and 
taking the name of Junker Georg 
(Squire George). During the time 
which he spent in this solitude, which 
! he often calls his “ Patmos,” he wrote 









ROUTE 86. —WARTfiURG. GOTHA* Sect. VII. 


456 

several works, and completed a large 
portion of his translation of the Bible. 

The Wartburg, whose oldest portion, 
restored to light since 1847, including 
a long range of Romanesque arcades, 
dates from 1150, is an extensive, if 
not picturesque castle, visible from far 
and near, overlooking a wide range of 
wild forest-clad hills. The chamber 
which Luther inhabited is pointed out. 
His bedstead and chair have been car¬ 
ried away in chips by visitors as relics. 
His table has been preserved from sharing 
the same fate by a strong iron hand. 
He has himself described in his writings 
the attacks to which he was here sub¬ 
jected, in his solitary hours, from the 
Evil One, whom he is reported to have 
repulsed by throwing the inkstand at 
his head. The windows of his cell 
command a beautiful view. Here are 
portraits of his parents, by L. Cranach 
the elder, wonderfully truthful. 

In another division of the castle is 
a very curious Armoury , in which 
are several beautiful suits of the 
IGth and 17th cent., and some as 
old as the 15th. Many of the suits 
are assigned to great persons, such as 
Pope Julius II., and Henry II. of 
France, both finely worked; that of 
“Frederick with the bitten cheek” 
(so called because his mother, in the 
anguish of parting with him when a 
child, bit his cheek till the blood came), 
and of Lewis the Leaper. Here are 
shown the armour of Kunz of Kau- 
fungen, a robber knight of gigantic 
stature, who stole away two of the 
Saxon princes, and was beheaded at 
Freiberg; two suits, said to have been 
worn by Kunegunde and Agnes, Saxon 
princesses and heroines; the Constable 
de Bourbon’s armour, which he wore 
at the moment of his death, while in 
the act of scaling the walls of Rome; 
that of Feige von Bomsen; and of 
many dukes and landgraves of Thu¬ 
ringia. The Wartburg was the resi¬ 
dence of the pious St. Elizabeth of 
Thuringia, who, being discovered by 
her stingy husband distributing victuals 
to the poor from her apron, and being 
asked what she had there, replied, 
“ Flowers.” The husband, thinking 
to detect her in a falsehood, tore open 


the garment, and lo ! flowers fell out. 
By a miracle, to cover the pious fraud, 
and reward the lady’s charity, the bread 
and cheese had been turned into roses 
and lilies! In 1207 the Minnesangers 
(Northern Troubadours) assembled on 
the Wartburg to hold a trial of skill. 
In 1817, 500 riotous students collected 
here from different German universi¬ 
ties, chiefly from Jena, with several 
professors, and made some seditious 
and revolutionary speeches, which led 
to several arrests. The old castle has 
been splendidly restored, but to the 
detriment of its antique character; a 
curious gallery of arches in the upper 
story has been opened out, and the inte¬ 
rior, its halls and corridors, have been 
covered with modern fresco-pain tags, by 
M. v. Schwind, relating to its history. 

If a pedestrian, you will easily find 
a handy lad to show you the way, 
2 m. from Eisenach, close to the Coburg 
road, to the Annenthal , a narrow, ro¬ 
mantic, moss-grown glen, where walls 
of rock on either hand leave barely 
room for one person to pass, while 
beneath gurgles a threadlike stream. 
The narrowest part of the gorge is 
called Drachcnschlucht. Returning a 
little way, a path on 1. leads up to the 
Wartburg, from which you descend, on 
the other side, in half an hour to the 
town. This walk and the visit to the 
castle will take up 3 or 4 hrs. It is also 
accessible in a carriage. Longer excur¬ 
sions , on foot or by carriage, to Land- 
grafenloch, Hirschstcin, Wachstein. 

Though the country of Saxe-Eisen¬ 
ach belongs to Weimar, it is separated 
from the rest of that duchy by Saxe- 
Gotha and a part of Prussia. 

From Eisenach Railways run to 
Halle; to Leipzig (Thiiringische Eisen- 
bahn); to Cassel, to Meiningen, Coburg, 
and Lichtenfels (Rte. 92). 

Frottstedt Stat. 

Gotha Stat.; capital Rly. Restaurant, 
and very clean. Luggage may be left 
here while the traveller devotes 2 or 
more hrs. to explore. Inns: Deutscher 
Hof; Wiinschers Hotel; Der Riese, in 
the market-place. 

Gotha, the chief town of the duchy 
and, alternately, with Coburg, the resi- 




45 ? 


Saxony. ROUTE 86.—GOtHA. 

dence of the Duke of Saxe-Coburg, has 
a population of 19,071 souls (250 Ro¬ 
man Catholics). 

Schloss Friedenstein is a large, hut 
not a handsome building, conspicuous 
on a height, 1150 ft. above the sea- 
level, surrounded by terraces com¬ 
manding fine views. It contains, 1st, 
a Picture Gallery , not of first-rate ex¬ 
cellence, but including many good 
by Cranach , who lived in the corner 
house in the Market-place; portraits 
of Luther and his wife, and Melancthon; 
Holbein , 2 portraits of the Sulzer family; 
V. Eyck , portrait of Philip of Burgundy; 
L. v. Leyden , Judith and Holofernes; 
and Dutch pictures, particularly a 
female portrait by Van der Heist; Rem¬ 
brandt's Mother; Rubens’ sketches for 
the Borromeo Ch. at Antwerp; Van 
Dyk’s portrait of himself and of Rubens’ 
wife; G. Dow , an old woman spinning ; 
P. Potter , a cattle - piece ; views of 
Flushing and Fort Lillo, by Van Goyens ; 

2 little Saxon princes, supposed to be 
Ernst and Albert; a screen, with 72 
subjects from the Gospels, of A. Diirer’s 
school; some good small specimens of 
ancient Florentine painting; and a 
portrait of Agnes von Mansfeld. 

The cabinet of engravings is large 
and excellent. In the Kunstkammer 
may be seen the swords of Charle¬ 
magne and Sobieski; the prayer-book 
of James I. and Anne of Denmark, 
bound by Cellini; a ring of Mary 
Stuart; Louis XIY.’s head on an ame¬ 
thyst ; fine gold-mounted nautili; and 
some capital figures executed in wood. 
Among the gems is a Medusa’s head 
in sardonyx, a cameo with Jupiter and 
Ceres; carvings in ivory and wood, &c. 
2nd, a Library of 150,000 vols., in¬ 
cluding a copy of the Gospels, presented 
by Emp. Otho II. to the convent of 
Echtcrnach (a.d. 973), remarkable for 
its Byzantine miniatures and binding ; 
2000 MSS. collected in the East by Seet- 
zen. 3rd, a Museum of Natural History, 
interesting: the specimens of cheirothe- 
rium, mammoth, and amber are fine. 
4th, Coin and Medals , very extensive 
and complete; one of the finest collec¬ 
tions of the kind in Europe. 5th, a 
Japanese and Chinese Museum , contains 
many curiosities seldom seen in Eu- 

[n. g.] 


RElftllARDSBitUNtf. 

rope; such as rare Chinese and Japan¬ 
ese books, articles of furniture, wea¬ 
pons, &c. Among the porcelain are 
specimens of Botticher’s (of Dresden) 
first attempts. These collections are 
shown gratis on Tues. and Frid., 9 to 

l , from April 1 to Oct. 31 : at other 
times for a fee of 1 dollar. The Gardens 
and Terraces adjoining the palace, and 
the Boulevards round the town, are 
agreeable promenades. In the Ducal 
Palace is a collection of modern pic = 
tures; among them Wapper's (the Bel¬ 
gian) Charles IX. firing on the Hugue¬ 
nots, «&c. Near it is the Stable (MarstalD. 

In front of the Rathhaus is a pillar 
and statue of Roland (see Bremen). 

The Almanack de Gotha , printed here, 
gives the names, ages, and pedigrees 
of all the reigning princes of Europe 
and their families. 

Berghaus’s maps and charts, pub¬ 
lished by Perthes, are very excellent. 

A porcelain manufactory, formerly 
in some estimation, is carried on here. 

Excursions.—(a.) Reinhardsbrunn (9 

m. ), a ducal country seat, in the form of 
a Gothic chateau, erected on the site 
of a Benedictine abbey, destroyed in the 
Peasants’ War, 1525, is particularly 
recommended to strangers who can 
spare 5 or 6 hours to such a detour. 
A short way on the road you have a fine 
view of the-Thuringian range. Several 
old monuments of Saxon princes are 
in the Chapel. The country about it 
resembles a beautiful park. The 
Inselsberg , 2 £ hrs.’ walk from this, com¬ 
mands from its top a finer view than any 
other mountain of the Thuringian range. 

( 6 .) Schnepfenthal, the institution 
for education (Erziehungs Anstalt) of 
Mr. Salzmann, is on the road. At 
Siebleben, about £ m. out of the town, 
on the way to Erfurt, Grimm, author 
of the ‘ Correspondence,’ is buried. 
Here lives M. Freitag, author of 
‘ Sollen und Haben.’ 

rt. On the summit of a hill is the 
Observatory of Seeberg , formerly the 
residence of Baron Zach, the astronomer. 
The railway skirts the foot of the hill 
crowned by the Dietendorf Stat.; here 
is a Moravian colony. 

The Hamster rat increases at times to 
such an enormous extent in the Tliii- 

X 








458 


ROtjTE 86. —ERktfRT; LUTHER’S CELL. Sect. Vli. 


ringerwald as to become a plague. 
In 1817-18, 200,000 were taken in the 
neighbourhood of Gotha; 

On the rt. may be seen the 3 castles 
called the Drei Gleiciien . They are of 
great antiquity, and belonged to differ¬ 
ent Owners, but were all struck with 
lightning in 1230. Muhlberg is a total 
ruin; except its donjon tower. Gleiciien 
is in a better state of preservation, the 
rOof remaining in part: the Wachseriburg 
is still entire; They are situated in the 
most beautiful part of Thuringia; 

Beyond this, about half-way between 
Gotha and Erfurt, we cross the boun¬ 
dary of Prussia. At a little distance 
from the walls of Erfurt the strong 
citadel of Cyriaksburg is passed. 

Erfurt Stat.— Inns: *Silbcr’s Hotel; 
am Bahnof, near the Stat., good and 
well conducted; zura Kaiser, great civi¬ 
lity ; Weisses Boss. ‘This very old town 
was at one time capital of Thuringia 
(Thiiringen); it now belongs to Prus¬ 
sia, and is a fortress of second class, 
very impoi’tant from its situation on 
the great high road of Central Europe. 
The fort Petersberg within the walls, 
and the citadel of Cyriaksburg without, 
contribute to its strength. It stands 
on the Gera (famous for watcrcresses), 
over which are several bridges. Its 
streets are wide and full of interesting 
old houses, with carved fronts. It 
has 8 Boman Catholic, and 9 Lutheran 
churches, yet its population has shrunk 
to 41,760; little more than half of 
what it once possessed (7000 Bom. 
Catholics). It has a garrison of 4000 
men. 

The Dom (Cathedral), on an eminence, 
is a fine Gothic structure, well restored. 
It occupies the site of a wooden Ch. 
built bv St. Boniface 752. The chief 
feature is the choir , b. 1353, wider than 
the central aisle of the nave, and not on 
a line with it. The nave, b. 1472, has 
side aisles wider than the centre, and is 
partly separated from the choir by the 2 
stately towers of the 12th cent. In the 
N. one hangs the famous bell, called 
Grosse Susanna, weighing 275 cwt., much 
ornamented and dated 1447. Observe 
—the N. portal, leading into the tran¬ 
sept, and forming a triangular porch, 
resembling the porch of Batisbon, en¬ 


riched with statues, reliefs, and tracery 
—the altars on the 1. as you enter are 
very elegant—a bronze bas-relief; at¬ 
tached to the monument of Canon Hen¬ 
ning Goden (d. 1522), of the Coronation 
of the Virgin, by Peter Vischer of Nu¬ 
remberg, a highly finished work ; —the 
monument of Ernst Count von Gleichen 
with his 2 wives, 12th centy. The 
floor is inlaid with monumental stone 
carved in relief; tvith effigies of monks 
and abbots, now barbarously covered 
with pews. Within the choir is very 
fine painted glass and an old bronze 
candelabrum, representing a penitent 
holding tapers, with an inscription 
not satisfactorily explained. The stalls 
are partly ancient. The pulpit is 
modern, by Schinkel. There is a very 
good Holy Family, by L. Cranach , 
and another painting, with date 1534, 
on the door of a reliquary in the 
wall. The cloisters display a range of 
tracery of 13th and 14th cents. The 
view from the top of the tower will 
well repay for the ascent. 

In the Barfusso'hirche is a carved 
and painted altarpiece of the Coro¬ 
nation of the Virgin, with statues of 
the Apostles. In the Church of St . 
Secerns, distinguished by its 3 spires, 
near the Dom, over an altar, is a fine 
high relief of the archangel Michael, of 
excellent workmanship, and a richly 
decorated font, with a tall cover 30 ft. 
high, a remarkable example of inter¬ 
penetration or stump tracery, date 
1467. 

One object of particular historic in¬ 
terest here is Luther's Cell in the 
Augustine convent. The building is 
now converted into an Orphan House, 
called Martinsstift, but his apartment is 
preserved as nearly as possible in its 
original condition, and contains his 
portrait, Bible, and other relics. He 
entered the convent as a monk, July 
17, 1505, in consequence of a vow 
made 14 days before, on the death of a 
friend who was struck by lightning at 
his side. Here ho spent several years 
of his life: at the altar in the chapel 
he read his first mass, and here, per¬ 
haps in this very cell, he first studied 
the Bible, of which he never saw a 
copy until he was 20 years old, when 




















LIBRARY. 


459 


Saxony » route 86.—weimar. 

he picked one up, by accident, in a 
ccfrner of the library. 

In the Fishmarket, in front of the 
Rathkaus (erected 1259,) stands a Ro- 
iandsdule . The fortifications, and the 
Walks outside of these, command fin e 
views of the town and its numerous 
spires. The Steiger is the most fre¬ 
quented walk; you reach it through 
market-gardens, singularly irrigated. 

Schropp’s models of Gothic build¬ 
ings, &c., are worth seeing. 

The University of Erfurt was sup¬ 
pressed in 1816, and of the numerous 
convents which existed here till very 
recently one only remains, the Ursuline 
Nunnery. It is worth visiting, as an 
interesting specimen of a monastic esta¬ 
blishment. The sisters employ them¬ 
selves in teaching a school. 

From the 14th to the 16th cent. 
Erfurt was a Hanse Town, and a staple 
place of the trade of a great part of 
Europe. The main commercial high¬ 
way between the Baltic and the Hanse 
Towns on the one hand, and Italy and 
Venice on the other, lay through Augs¬ 
burg, Nuremberg, Erfurt, and Bruns¬ 
wick, to Lubeek and Danzig. 

A Congress of sovereigns was assem¬ 
bled at Erfurt , 1807, by Napoleon, who 
resided in the palace of Count Dalberg, 
now Regierungs Gebdude, but occupied 
during the 17th and 18th cents, by 
the Deputy of the Electors of Mayence, 
who were Stadtholders of Erfurt. 

Railway by Sondershausen to Nord- 
hausen. 

Erfurt is entered and quitted by 2 
short tunnels under the fortifications. 
Shortly after the railroad leaves the 
Prussian dominions, and enters Saxe- 
Weimar. 

Weimar Stat.— Inns: Erbprinz, im¬ 
proved ; Russischer Hof, best; Ele¬ 
phant. Weimar, situated on the Ilm, 
is the residence of the Grand Duke ot 
Saxe-Weimar, and capital of his do¬ 
minions; it has 14,800 Inhab. To a 
stranger it will appear a dull and 
provincial-looking town. It has no 
trade to give it activity, nor can the 
presence of a court supply this want. 
It has also lost its claim to its former 
appellation of The Athens of the North 


BALACE. 

since the deaths of Schiller, Gothc, 
Wieland, Herder, and other men of 
genius and learning, who, though not 
natives of the duchy, resided here by 
invitation of the former Grand Duke, 
and conferred a lustre on his court and 
capital. 

There are few sights at Weimar to 
detain a traveller. The chief buildings 
are the Stadtkirche (town ch., built 
1400). The altar-piece of the Cruci¬ 
fixion, by Lucas Cranach , is one of his 
finest works; it contains portraits ot 
the artist himself near the cross, and 
of his friends Luther and Melanchthon : 
44 members of the Ducal Family of 
Saxe Weimar are interred here. The 
most illustrious among them is the 
Grand Duke Bernard, the brave general 
of the Thirty Years’ War, the ally of 
Gustavus Adolphus, and second to him 
only among all the Protestant leaders. 
His grave has no other distinction than 
a simple brass plate. A tablet in the 
pavement bearing the name of Herder , 
marks the spot where that eminent 
writer is buried, and a bronze statue of 
him, by Schaller, stands in front of the 
Ch. He lived in a corner house, close 
to (N. of) the Ch. 

In the Cemetery of the Schloss Kirche, 
or Ch. of St. James , is the tomb of 
Lucas Cranach (d. 1553). The mason 
who carved his epitaph has written 
pictor celerrimus , instead of celeberri- 
mus; it can hardly be said by mistake, 
because both epithets are equally de¬ 
served. In the same place are the 
graves of Musaeus the poet (d. 1787), 
and of Bodaeus. 

The Palace is a handsome building, 
tastefully furnished, but not otherwise 
remarkable. A suit of apartments has 
been decorated by modern artists, Nelicr , 
Preller , &c., with frescoes, illustrating 
the works of Schiller, Gothc, Herder, 
and Wieland. Duke Bernard’s armour 
is kept in one of the rooms; and be¬ 
side it, in a box, one of his fingers, 
which was cut oft' in an encounter with 
an enemy, and afterwards preserved 
and carried about by its owner. 

Near the palace is the Public Library, 
in a circular tower, once a powder- 
magazine. Within it are several por¬ 
traits of eminent persons by L. Cranach 

x 2 





460 


Sect. Vli. 


ROUTE 86.—JEtfA. KOSEtG 


and other artists; colossal busts of 
Schiller, by Dannecker , and of Gothe, 
by David; busts of Herder and Wie- 
land. There are also a few relics of 
great men, such as the black gown 
worn by Luther when a monk; Gus- 
tavus Adolphus’s leather belt, pierced 
by the bullet which caused his death at 
Llitzen. In the market-place is a hand¬ 
some Gothic Rathhaus , built 1841. 

The house of Gothe , in which he died 
(1832), is in the Gothe- or Fraucn- 
platz. It has been let by his family, 
and is closed to the public. The 
interesting relics of him, and the col¬ 
lections which he left behind, are 
shown however on Friday. His 
furniture was of a homely descrip¬ 
tion : in his study were a common deal 
table (at which he wrote, which be¬ 
longed to Schiller), his desk, and stool. 
He never had an arm-chair until he 
was 80. His drawing-room was deco¬ 
rated with casts from the antique, with 
models and drawings by the old mas¬ 
ters. The small house of Schiller is also 
in the Esplanade, or Schillerstrasse. 

The Statues of Gothe and Schiller, 
erected 1857, opposite the theatre, are 
by Rietschel —that of Herder by Schaller , 
near the Stadtkirche—that of Wieland 
by Gassert, on the Frauenplatz. There 
is also an imposing monument to the 
Duke Carl August, by Hahnel. 

The Theatre was once under Gothe’s 
and Schiller’s management. The per¬ 
formances and music are still tolerable. 
The audience has the character of a 
large family party: females come and 
go unattended, and ladies need appear 
in no finer costume than a bonnet and 
morning dress. The play is generally 
over by nine. 

In the New Churchyard , beyond the 
Frauenthor, beneath a small chapel, is 
the Grand Ducal burial-vault. Gothe 
and Schiller are here interred. The 
Duke Charles Augustus, their patron 
and friend, intended that their re¬ 
mains should have been deposited on 
each side of him, but it appeared that 
courtly etiquette would not permit this 
proximity, and they have therefore been 
placed in one corner, at a respectful 
distance. Hummel the composer is also 


buried here. The apparatus used to 
prevent premature interment is curious 
(§ 44), and should be seen. 

The grounds belonging to the Palace 
are laid out in a Park and Gardens , ex¬ 
tending along the pleasant banks of the 
Ilm. They are much esteemed by the 
inhabitants as a promenade. Within 
them is situated the summer residence 
of Gothe. The park communicates, 
by an avenue, with the summer villa 
called Belvedere (2 m.), commanding a 
fine view, and having a hothouse, con¬ 
servatory, and fine garden attached to 
it. Another chateau of the Grand 
Duke is prettily situated at Ticffurt: 
It is worth a visit. It contains an im¬ 
mense quantity of rococo of all descrip¬ 
tions. The kitchen is lined with old 
Dutch tiles, and the dressers covered 
with all sorts of game, fruit, fish, &c., 
in porcelain, delf, and papier-mache. 

Eilwagen daily to Jena—about 12 m. 
E. of Weimar, remarkable for its Uni¬ 
versity (see Bte. 94)—and Gera. 

The river Ilm is crossed, and rt. in 
the hollow is seen Ossmandstddt , where 
Wieland the poet lies buried in his 
garden (d. 1813) by the side of his 
wife and his friend Sophie Brentano. * 

Apolda Stat. A modern manufactur¬ 
ing town, where cotton stockings are 
made. Omnibus and coaches to Jena 
(Bte. 94). 

The field of the battle of Auerstadt , 
or Jena, so disastrous to Prussia, 14 
Oct. 1806, lies near Hassenhausen, 3 
m. S. of the railroad, between the 
Apolda Stat. and Naumburg. A small 
pillar has been erected by the King of 
Prussia in a field to the S. of the road, 
between Eckhardsberge and Naumburg, 
to mark the spot where the Duke of 
Brunswick was mortally wounded. 

Suiza Stat. Some way beyond this 
the Duchy of Saxe Weimar terminates, 
and Prussia is entered. 

Between Suiza and Naumburg the 
Eailroad traverses the narrow and pic¬ 
turesque defile of the Saale. In it are 
situated the salt-works, baths, and 
mineral springs of 

Kosen Stat., Buffet good [Inn, Bitter), 
the approach to which is singular and 
picturesque; on the right, high above 
the Saale, is the Castle Saaleck. The 



Saxony, route 86.—naumburg. 

baths are supplied from the brine, or 
mother liquor, left in the pans when 
nearly all the salt has been extracted. 

Close to the railroad lies the curious 
village Sehulpforta, whose Church is a 
noble Gothic building (the choir, 1251- 
68), and in whose well-conducted 
School , 300 years old, Klopstock and 
Lessing were educated. 

2| Naumburg Stat., at some distance 
from the town. Inns: Sachsischer 
Hof, in the town; Preussischer Hof, 
good, in the suburbs. Naumburg is an 
industrious town of 14,700 Inhab., 
beautifully situated in the valley of the 
Saale, in the midst of an amphitheatre 
of hills covered with vines and dotted 
with country-houses. The Cathedral is 
a remarkable Gothic edifice, with double 
choir at the E. and W. ends. The nave 
(b. 1209-42), transepts, crypt, and part 
of towers are Romanesque. The W. 
choir is Pointed in the purest style; the 
statues of the founders against the pillars 
are very fine works of the 13th century. 
The W. roodloft is also of the best 
period of the pointed Gothic. The 

i crucifix is placed underneath, in the 
doorway ; the front is ornamented with 
bas-reliefs. The E. choir is Dec. in 
style, later than the W. end, and con¬ 
tains a Romanesque Roodloft with round 
arches, a rare example of the style. The 
whole Ch. and its contents, monuments, 
sculptures, painted glass, and books, are 
well worth study. 

In the Ch. of St. Wenzel (Stadtkircho) 
is a picture of Christ blessing the chil¬ 
dren, by Cranach. 

Naumburg was a place of great im¬ 
portance during the Thirty Years’ War, 
and in the campaigns of 1806 and 1813. 
Here were the Prussian magazines. 
Napoleon having turned the flank of 
the Prussian army, seized the town, and 
this proved one o£ the main causes of 
the disastrous defeat at Jena. This 
town was again occupied by the French, 
previously to the battle of Liitzen, 1 
May 1813, and its possession was long 
and fiercely contested between the 
French and Russians, After the rout 
of Leipzig, the Allies having occupied 
Naumburg, Napoleon was obliged to 
turn aside towards Freiburg, on the 
Unsfrut, out of the niain road, the de- 


WEISSENFELS. ROSSBACII. 461 

files near Naumburg being occupied 
with cannon. 

Naumburg and Weissenfels are 
among the most northern points in 
Europe where Vineyards are planted; 
but the greater part of the wine pro¬ 
duced from them so nearly resembles 
vinegar, that it is chiefly profitable 
when sold as such, or when distilled to 
make brandy. 

The castles of Schonburg and Go- 
seck are seen on the left, before reach¬ 
ing 

2| Weissenfels Junct. Stat. In a 
country-house near the Stat., marked 
with an N., Napoleon slept the night 
after the battle of Leipzig. Inns: Drei 
Schwane, good; zum Schiitzen, good. 
A town of 13,652 Inhab., on the 
Saale. The many-windowed Schloss 
on the height to the S.W. of the town, 
formerly the residence of the Dukes of 
Weissenfels, is now a barrack. 

The dead body of Gustavus Adolphus 
was brought hither after the battle of 
Liitzen, and embalmed in a room of the 
Town-house (Amtshaus ), in the presence 
of Bernard of Saxe Weimar. It is re¬ 
corded that his heart weighed 1 lb. 
2 oz.; that the body bore the marks of 
8 wounds, i. e. 5 gunshots, 2 cuts, 1 
stab. A part of the wall, which was 
stained with his blood, is still preserved 
from external contact. His widowed 
queen repaired hither to receive the 
body. The heart was instantly con¬ 
veyed to Stockholm. 

[Branch Rly. to Gossnitz Stat. on the 
Leipzig and Nuremberg Rly., by Kost- 
ritz and Zeitz. Gera (Inn, Fromater’s), 
a picturesque, clean, and thriving 
manufacturing modern town, of 15,400 
Inhab., on the Elster, belonging to the 
sovereign princes of Reuss-Schleitz and 
Ebersdorf. 

The Castle of the Prince of R. Ebers¬ 
dorf, backed by hanging woods, rises 
over against the town, and adds much 
to its picturesque appearance.] 

Corbetha Junct. Stat, 

[About 5 m. W. of this is Ross- 
bach, the scene of one of Frederick 
the Great’s most memorable and un¬ 
expected victories, which he gained 
with an army of only 22,000 Prussians 
over 60,000 French and Austrians 






462 


Sect. VII. 


ROUTE 86.—LUTZEN. 


under Soubise, Nov. 5,1757. The King 
directed his manoeuvres, previously un¬ 
rivalled in military tactics, from the 
castle of Rossbach. From the ridge on 
•which it stands he despatched Sedlitz, 
at the head of his cavalry, to sweep 
down the French in successive charges, 
so as to drive them from the field in 
less than half an hour. The enemy, 
previously certain of victory, had 
directed their chief efforts to prevent 
the escape of Frederick, and had 
weakened their line by so doing, which 
caused their defeat.] 

[From Corbetha a Rly. branches to 
Halle by 

2£ Merseburg Stat. (Lins: Sonne, 
Aim; Ilof.) A town of 12,000 Inhab.; 
has a picturesque Castle , chiefly of the 
15th centy., once the residence of the 
Saxon princes, overlooking the river. 
"Within it stands the Cathedral , chiefly 
of plain early pointed, lancet windows, 
but the nave is late; piers without 
capitals. It is rich in monuments ; 
that of Rudolph of Swabia (d. 1080), 
a bronze plate in low relief, re¬ 
presenting him in imperial attire, is 
probably the oldest mediaeval effigy ex¬ 
tant. In the N. transept the altar-tomb 
of Bishop Tilo v. Throthe (d. 1514), 
bearing a brass effigy, and on the wall 
above, one kneeling in prayer. The 
bishop is said to have wrongfully put 
to death a servant for stealing a ring, 
whereas the real thief was a raven. For 
this cause he took the raven and ring 
as his crest, and for this a live raven is 
still maintained in a cage in the castle- 
court. On the wall of the ante-nave is 
a bronze of Bishop Lindenau, by Peter 
Vischer , and a font on which are figures 
of the Prophets carrying the Evange¬ 
lists on their shoulders. In the choir 
are pictures by Cranach , and in the 
sacristy Empress Kunigunda’s mantle 
and the dried hand of the Emperor 
Rudolph, cut off in the battle of the 
Elster, where he was slain. 

2 Halle Junction Stat. Railroad 
thence to Leipzig. (See Rte. 64.)] 

The Pailway to Leipzig from Weis- 
senfels, avoiding the circuit by Halle, 
passes near Liitzen. 

In the defile of Rippach, 3 m. from 


Liitzen, Marshal Bessieres was killed 
in a skirmish the day before the battle 
of 2nd May, 1813. 

Liitzen. Inns not good. A small 
village, whose name would never have 
been heard of, but for the great battles 
fought in its vicinity. About a mile 
out of the town, by the side of the 
high road to Leipzig, a rude unsquared 
block of granite, one of the most south¬ 
ern of those mysterious boulders which 
have been transported from the moun¬ 
tains of Scandinavia, is set up, shaded 
by a few poplars, and further distin¬ 
guished by a Gothic canopy of cast 
iron, raised over it in 1838. This is 
called the stone of the Swede ( Schwe - 
denstein ), and marks the spot where 
Gustavus Adolphus fell, in the midst of 
the battle of Liitzen, 6 Nov. 1632. 
This was one of the most fiercely con¬ 
tested engagements recorded in history. 
In the course of it, Piccolomini had 
seven horses killed under him, and 
Pappenheim was mortally wounded, 
and died the next day at Leipzig, while 
their colleague, the Imperial General¬ 
issimo Wallenstein rode unhurt through 
a shower of balls. The Swedish 
cavalry fought long and bravely for tho 
possession of the corse of their sove¬ 
reign, and at last bore it off triumph¬ 
antly to the church of the neighbouring 
village of Mcuchen. 

Liitzen is also memorable for a more 
recent battle, fought on the 2nd of May, 
1813, between Napoleon and the Allies. 
The former maintained possession of 
the field, but gained no other material 
advantage, after a bloody engagement. 
The Prussian General Scharnhorst died 
of a wound received on this occasion ; 
Bliicher was also severely wounded. 
The Prussians have named this battle 
after the village of Gross-Gorschen, a 
little to the S. of Liitzen, and near 
which the field of battle lies. This 
was the first occasion in which they 
measured their strength successfully 
with the French, after the fatal battle 
of Jena. 

The campaign of 1813 was fought 
over a great portion of the same ground 
as that of 1806 ; the same posts were 
contested and defended, but with very 
different results, Napoleon, who was 




463 


ROUTE 86.—LEIPZIG. UNIVERSITY. 


Saxony. 

successful in the first instance, suf¬ 
fered, in the neighbourhood of Leip¬ 
zig, the most decisive defeat oii the 
2nd occasion. The operations of that 
memorable battle of the 17th, 18th, 
and 19th of October, 1813, extended to 
a distance of nearly 10 m. on all sides 
of Leipzig. 

The river Saal is crossed. 

Diirrenberg Stat.—Near this are salt¬ 
works. 

The Prussian territory terminates. 

Markt-Ranstadt Stat. is the first 
town in Saxony. In the castle of Alt- 
Ranstddt Charles XII. fixed his head¬ 
quarters after the conquest of Saxony 
by his army and the dethronement of 
Augustus. Hence he called on the 
cabinets of Europe to acknowledge 
Stanislaus Leczinsky, the monarch 
whom he had placed on the throne. 
The Duke of Marlborough here visited 
the youthful monarch on a secret mis¬ 
sion, and complimented him by ex¬ 
pressing a wish to serve a campaign 
under so great a general. 

Leipzig Thuringian Ely. Terminus. 

Leipzig. — Inns: H. Hauffe, corner 
of Ross Markt, a good situation and 
comfortable; H. do Russie, good; H. dc 
Baviere: H. de Prusse, Napoleon’s 
quarters 1813. 2 nd-class inns ; Stadt 

Rom, near the Dresden Rly. During 
the Fair the charge for a room is 
doubled. 

Felsche’s Cafe Fran^ais on the 
Augustus Platz. 

Omnibuses from the different inns 
to the railways—charge 5 s. gr. Fiacres 
ply also. 

Leipzig is built on the small rivers 
Elster and Pleisse, and has 90,824 
Inhab. ; it is a place of considerable 
historical celebrity, and of greater 
commercial importance, and more real 
business than most continental towns; 

* evidence of which is seen in its bustling 
streets by the traveller, especially if he 
happens to visit it during the Fair. 
The town, formerly confined within 
walls, has removed its gates, and 
thrown out fine suburbs beyond— 
proof of increasing prosperity. About 
1000 new houses were built between 
1840-51, 


There is nothing more agreeable 
here than the Garden Walks (Spazier- 
gange), which occupy the site of ^ho 
old city walls, and divide it from its 
modern suburb. Those shady walks 
arc beset with statues and monuments 
of eminent men, and in some instances 
they expand into squares ; such is the 
Augustus Platz, the most spacious in 
Leipsig. Here are the Augusteum or 
University, the Post-office , the Mu- 
seum, Theatre, &c. 

Leipzig is celebrated for its University, 
the oldest in Germany after that of 
Prague, having been founded in 1409 
by German seceders from thence. The 
University building, called Augusteum, 
on the Augustus Platz, is the finest 
in Leipzig: it was finished 1836, from 
Sehinkel’s design. The Hall {Aula) is 
decorated with some fine sculptures, 
statues, busts, and a series of bas-reliefs, 
illustrating the progress of civilization, 
by Rietschel, and contains the Library 
of 100,000 vols., including a beautifully 
illuminated Hebrew MS. 12th cent,, a 
collection of autographs (letter of Sir 
T. More to Erasmus), early woodcuts 
and block books. The museums of 
natural history and anatomy are depo¬ 
sited in the Paulinum. The University 
numbers about 60 professors, 70 private 
teachers, and 800 students. It is one 
of the few’ scholastic establishments on 
the Continent which has retained its 
own landed estates, most of the others 
having been stripped, and being now 
supported by annual grants. In other 
respects, also, it resembles our English 
universities; “commons” being kept 
for 300 students, who demand it on the 
plea of poverty, with a small additional 
subscription of 2 gros. a week u for 
pepper, vinegar, and salt ” from those 
who participate. 

The Town Library, in a very long 
and striking room, besides European 
works, has a remarkable collection of 
Oriental MSS. ; many Turkish books 
obtained by the Germans in their vic¬ 
tories over the Turks in Hungary, such 
as pay lists, officers’ commissions, 
dating from 1683, when Sobieski res¬ 
cued Vienna; a portion of an almost 
unequalled Koran which belonged to 
a mosque at Sultanieh, and another 





464 


ROUTE 86.-LEIPZIG. BATTLE. 


Sect. VII. 


brought from a mosque at Buda, when 
that city was Mahommedan. 

The churches are not remarkable. 
St. Nicholas dates from 1525, but its 
architecture is of questionable taste. 
It has palm-tree piers and pointed 
arches. In a corner, thrust aside, is a 
fine Gothic stone pulpit. The pictures 
of GEser are not very interesting. 

The Catholic Ch., from designs of 
Heideloff, 1846, is a fair specimen 
of modern Gothic. The altarpiece is 
by Vogel. 

Th eGreat Marhet-place is picturesque, 
from the quaint architecture of its 
buildings, particularly of the Town 
House (Rathhaus) built 1556, on one 
side of it. In this square the allied 
sovereigns met after the battle of Leip¬ 
zig. The Konigshaus , formerly in¬ 
habited by the Electors and Kings of 
Saxony on their visits to the town, 
was occupied by Napoleon during the 
battle ; here he had his last interview 
with the king, who was afterwards de¬ 
tained prisoner in it by the Allies as 
an adherent of Napoleon, and here 
Marshal Schwarzenberg, the general 
of the allied army, died in 1820. 

Auerbach’s Cellar , a vault under an 
old house in the Grimmaische Str., near 
the market-place, where beer and wine 
are sold, and where, according to tradi¬ 
tion, the famous magician, Dr. Faustus, 
performed his feats, which are repre¬ 
sented in paintings on the walls, of 
the 16th cent. Gcithe has laid in this 
cellar a scene of his tragedy of Faust, 
in which the drunken students are sup¬ 
plied by Mephistophiles with various 
kinds of wine, out of holes bored with 
a gimlet in the table. It is said that 
the poet, as well as his hero, not un- 
frequently caroused here while a stu¬ 
dent. 

The lover of art may visit with plea¬ 
sure the collection of pictures in the 
Stadtische Museum , a handsome build¬ 
ing on the Augustus Platz—open Sun¬ 
days and holidays, 11-3; Tuesdays and 
Fridays, 10-4; at other times by paying 
4 N. gr. Obs. Lucas Cranach’s Nullity 
of Good Works, a curious effort of a 
Protestant painter. The collection is 
strong in works of the modem French 
gnd German schools; i\ Delaroche, Na? 


poleon at Fontainebleau; 4 fine land¬ 
scapes by Calame, Storm at Sea, by 
Gudin; Cattle, by Brascassels; Flock 
of Sheep, by Verbockhoven; and some 
works of the old masters, Murillo , Rem¬ 
brandt, and others. Here is also a fine 
collection of engravings and prints. 

Opposite the Museum is the Theatre, 
one of the handsomest in Germany out¬ 
side, and most commodious within, 
built 1867. 

The Castle of Pleissenburg , the an¬ 
cient citadel which occupied the S.E. 
angle of the city walls, withstood the 
attacks of Tilly during the Thirty 
Years’ War, several weeks after the 
town had surrendered. The lower 
part of it is now turned into a bar¬ 
rack, but it is worth while to ascend 
the tower, from the top of which a good 
view may be obtained of the town. The 
surrounding country is flat, but it 
is interesting as the scene of the 
memorable Battle of Leipzig , distin¬ 
guished by the Germans as the 
Yolkerschlacht, “ Battle of the Na¬ 
tions,” fought on the 16th, 17th, 18th, 
and 19th October, 1813. It was one of 
the longest, sternest, and bloodiest ac¬ 
tions of the war, and one of the largest 
battles recorded in history, from the 
number of troops engaged, amounting 
to 176,000 on the side of Napoleon, 
and 300,000 on that of the Allies, with 
1600 cannon, and the space of ground 
over which the operations extended; 
and it decided the fate of Europe. After 
the conflict had raged for 3 days in 
the vicinity of Leipzig, on the 19th it 
reached up to the very walls, and 
cannon-balls fell in showers in the 
streets. On the morning of that day 
Napoleon and part of his army passed 
through the town, quitting it on one 
side almost at the moment when the 
Allies entered it on the other. Indeed 
it is doubtful whether the emperor 
himself would have escaped, but for 
the bravery of Macdonald and Ponia- 
towskiin covering his retreat, and for the 
premature blowing up of the bridge over 
the Elster beyond the Ranstadt gate, at 
the moment when many of the French 
troops were in the act of passing, and 
25,000 remained behind. This event, 
whether designed or accidental, caused 



465 


Saxony. route 86. 

* 

the death of Poniatowski, and many 
hundreds of less note. The spot where 
he was drowned may barely be dis¬ 
cerned from the tower, near the 
Fleischer Platz, now surrounded and 
hidden by houses. It is marked by 
a humble stone monument close to 
the margin of the Elster, a mere 
ditch in size, but at the time of the 
battle so choked up with bodies of 
men and horses, dead, dying, or strug¬ 
gling to cross, that the sorry steed on 
which he was mounted, his own having 
been killed under him, was unable to 
swim among them. The brave Pole, 
already twice wounded, and borne down 
in the throng, sank in attempting the 
passage. Macdonald, better mounted, 
passed it iu safety nearly at the same 
spot. 

The road to Grimma (towards the S.E.) 
leads over the most interesting portion of 
the field of battle. Napoleon remained 
the whole day on an eminence rt. of the 
road, near Stotteritz, now marked by a 
clump of trees. Propstheide, a village 
1 m. further, was the key of the French 
position. An iron obelisk on a mound 
marks the place of meeting of the 3 
allied monarchs, and a block of granite 
on another not far off was raised to the 
memory of Prince Schwarzenburg. Na¬ 
poleon carried off to the Rhine only 
90,000 of his army. The Austrians 
lost 7000, the Russians 22,000, and the 
Prussians 15,000 killed and wounded. 
1600 guns were brought into the 
battle on both sides. The Allies were 
aided by a British rocket-corps, whose 
commander, Captain Bowyer, R.A., 
was killed, and is buried in the ch.- 
yard of Taucha. 

The old castellan will give eveiy 
information respecting the battle, and 
point out all the interesting spots. He 
lives in the tower. 

In the Johannis Kirchof, behind the 
Ch. of St. John, to the E. of the 
Augustus Platz, are the graves of many 
who fell in the battle on this spot, the 
ch. and churchyard having been con¬ 
tended for at the point of the bayonet. 
Here also is the grave of Gellert the 
poet (against the ch. wall), of Spohn 
the oriental scholar, Rosenmiiller, 
Politz, &c. 


,—LEIPZIG. 

In the Gardens round the town, or 
boulevard, (the entire circuit of these 
walks may be made in f of an hour) 
are placed monuments of Prof. Gel¬ 
lert (a bas-relief), statues of Hiller, 
composer; and of Thaer the agriculturist. 

In the Konigsplatz, a statue of King 
Frederick Augustus of Saxony (d. 1827); 
—of Sebastian Bach the composer, 
erected near St. Thomas’s school, of 
which he was precentor, by Felix Men¬ 
delssohn and on the Theater Platz, 
a sitting bronze figure of Hahnemann 
the homoeopathist.* 

Rosenthal, a park outside the town, 
to the N.W., is much frequented in 
summer, when concerts are given almost 
daily in the two cafes. Leibnitz, the 
philosopher, a native of Leipzig (b. 
1646), used to study and meditate 
here. 

Leipzig is famed for 2 delicacies of 
the table, larks and apples; the last are 
named from the neighbouring village of 
Borsdorf. A British Consul - General 
resides here (Mr. Crowe). 

Three Fairs are held here annually ; 
—at Easter (Oster Messe, beginning on 
the 2nd Sunday after Easter), which is 
the most important. At Michaelmas 
(beginning 1st Sunday after Michaelmas 
day), and the Neujahr Messe (begin¬ 
ning on New Year’s day), the least im¬ 
portant. They last three weeks, and 
while they continue, Leipzig is the 
mart and exchange of central Europe, 
and is visited by merchants and 
foreigners from the most distant parts 
of the globe, sometimes to the number 
of its actual population. The money 
transactions at one time amounted to 
80 millions of dollars annually, though 
of late they have fallen short of this 
sum. The streets and squares are then 
occupied by temporary booths, in addi¬ 
tion to the ordinary shops, in which 
goods of all kinds are exposed for sale. 
Every hotel and lodging-house is filled 
to overflowing; the streets are thronged 
with strange costumes and faces ; Jews 
from Poland, Tyrolese, Americans, and 
even Persians from Teflis, Armenians, 
Turks, and Greeks, are mingled to¬ 
gether as in a masquerade, and most of 

* N.B.—Homoeopathic medicines may be 
bought here far cheaper than in Englaud. 

x 3 




•466 


ROUTE 87. — LEIPZIG TO DRESDEN. 


the countries of Europe send representa¬ 
tives hither with their produce. 300 or 
400 guests sit down daily to the tables- 
d’hote of some of the principal hotels; 
gardens and coffee-houses are thronged. 

The sale of hooks forms one of the 
most important branches of commerce 
here; it alone is said to amount to 10 
millions of francs yearly. In fact, the 
whole hook-trade of Germany is centred 
on the spot, and every bookseller in 
Germany and the adjoining countries 
has an agent here. 600 booksellers 
sometimes assemble at the Easter Fair, 
to settle their annual accounts and pur¬ 
chases, and there are 130 residents and 
40 printing-offices. They have an Ex¬ 
change of their own, called the Deutsche 
Buchhandler Borse, where they meet and 
transact business. 

Among the most distinguished pub¬ 
lishers are F. Brockhaus , editor of the 
far-famed Conversations-Lexicon, and 
Baron Tauchnitz. 

The sale of pianos is enormous, one 
considerable quarter being occupied by 
the manufacturers of these instruments. 

The shop of Mr. Friedrich Fleischer 
is well situated, and furnished with the 
best European literature in various lan¬ 
guages, including Guides for Travellers, 

Baron Speck , at his seat Liitzschena, 
5 m. from Leipzig, possesses some very 
fine pictures:—a repetition of Raphael's 
Joanna of Aragon ; Fr. Francia , Ma¬ 
donna and Child; Hemling's (?) Saluta¬ 
tion ; Rubens , Portrait of a Prior; Rem¬ 
brandt, a portrait; Y. der Heist, por¬ 
trait of a female ; Murillo , Madonna 
and Child; Diirer , portrait of a young 
woman, 1497. Many good pictures of 
the Dutch and modern German schools. 

Railroads. —Termini on the N.E. side 
of the town—1. to Magdeburg; 2. to 
Berlin; 3. to Dresden; 4. Thuringian 
Ply., to Eisenach and Cassel. Termi¬ 
nus on the S. side of the town— 
(Baierischer Bahnhof)—to Hof, Bam¬ 
berg, Zwickau, and Nuremberg. 


Sect. VII. 


EOUTE 87. 

LEIPZIG TO DRESDEN.—RAILROAD. 

15| Germ. m.=72 Eng. m. Trains 
in 3 hours. Express in 24. Terminus 
Bahnhof Strasse, at the N.E. side of 
Leipzig. 

The Pailroad, on quitting Leipzig, 
traverses a portion of the Battle-field of 
1813 (Rte. 86). During an engagement 
between Ney and the Crown Prince of 
Sweden, near the village of Paunsdorf 
on the post-road, the Saxons went over 
to the side of the Allies. 1. Borsdorf, 
famed for its apples, is passed. 

The river Mulda is crossed by a 
bridge of 19 arches, shortly before 
reaching 

34 Wurzen Stat., a town of 3000 
Inhab. 

2^ Luppa Dahlen Stat. 

The vale of Dollnitz is traversed on 
a lofty viaduct on approaching 

1! Oschatz Stat. (Inn, Lowe), a town 
of 5000 Inhab., surrounded by ancient 
fortifications. Its Church —rebuilt after 
a fire in 1842, from Heidcloffs designs 
—has two tall towers with open spires, 
276 ft. high. In the neighbouring 
Chateau of Hubertsburg the treaty of 
peace, which terminated the Seven 
Years’ War, was concluded, 1763, be¬ 
tween Frederick the Great and the Em¬ 
press Maria Theresa. The building 
is now a Penitentiary. 

2 Riesa Junction Stat. (Good Re¬ 
staurant.) Here is the junction of the 
railway to Chemnitz (Rte. 90). The 
little town of Riesa lies on the 1. bank of 
the Elbe. On quitting the station we 
traverse the Elbe on a bridge of 9 
arches, and then follow the rt. bank of 
the river for a short distance, crossing 
the long Viadurt of Roderau, which 
rests on 64 piers. Here the Direct 
Berlin and Dresden Ply. (Rte. 65) 
falls in. 

[About 10 m. N.W. of Riesa, on the 
Elbe, is Muhlberg , where the battle was 
fought, in 1547, when the Protestants 
under John Frederick, Elector of Sax¬ 
ony, were defeated by Charles V., and 
their leader made prisoner, and com- 





467 


Saxony. route 87. —meissen. 


polled to throw himself at his con¬ 
queror's feet.] 

2^ Pristewitz Stat. 

A tunnel , the only one on the line, 
about 500 yards long, is traversed at 
Oberau. Near this (rt.) a glimpse is 
obtained of the town of Meissen, on the 
opposite side of the Elbe, 4 m. off. 
A branch rly. runs thither from 

Niederau Junct. Stat. But Meissen 
is most pleasantly visited from Dresden 
by steamer, down the Elbe. 

[Meissen. (Inns: Hirsch ;—Sonne.) 
A town of 5000 Inhab., prettily situated 
on the S. bank of the Elbe, which is 
here crossed by a bridge. 

The old Castle on the precipitous 
rock above the town, entered by a 
bridge thrown across the road in a 
cleft below, was formerly the residence 
of the Saxon princes. The view from 
it on all sides is charming, and its 
Gothic architecture presents much that 
is worthy of admiration, especially in 
the two elegant corkscrew staircases, 
the vaulting of the ceilings, the cross 
room, and a polygonal turret room; the 
windows are of a peculiar late Gothic, 
inclining in shape to those of Batalha 
and St. Mary’s Redcliffe. 

Contiguous to the castle is the 
*Dom , the finest Gothic Ch. in Saxony, 
begun in the 13th and continued to the 
15th cent., with an exquisite spire of 
open work. From an ante-nave, the 
Fiirstenrjruft , b. 1423, with curious 
groined vaulting, you enter, by a door 
enriched with many figures and reliefs, 
into the nave, having graceful piers and 
aisles of equal height (14th cent.), late 
Dec. The choir is earlier, being of 
13th cent. Gothic. The stone roodloft 
of 7 rich arches (1342-70) commands a 
good view of choir and nave. The recep¬ 
tacle for the sacrament near the altar is 
very elaborately carved in stone. The 
painted glass in its windows, the Descent 
I from the Cross by L. Cranach , in which 
are introduced the portraits of Luther, 
his wife, and his friend the Elector, 
are worth notice. In the Prince’s vault 
(at the W. end) many princes of the 
Saxon house, of the Wettin line, are 
interred, including Ernest and Albert, 
founders of the Royal and Ducal lines 
of Saxony. Here are 10 or 12 fine 1 


brasses engraved with their effigies and 
arms, those of about 1500 are finer 
than any in England or Flanders. Tho 
best is that of Sidonia, daughter of 
George Podiebrad (d. 1510), a work not 
unworthy of the burin of Alb. Durer. 
On a sarcophagus of bronze in the 
centre of the chapel is an effigy in bas- 
relief of its builder, Frederick the War¬ 
like (der Streitbar). Do not leave un¬ 
seen an early altarpiece with wings, of 
our Saviour between the Virgin and St. 
John, by L. Cranach. 

The Porcelain Manufactory , formerly 
in the castle, now occupies a handsome 
building expressly designed for it, 
1§ mile from the town. 

China ware, or porcelain, was ori¬ 
ginally brought from the country after 
which it is named, and was first 
made in Europe at this place, in 1710, 
by one Botticher, an alchemist, who, 
after wasting a great deal of the gold of 
his patron (Augustus I., King of Poland 
and Elector of Saxony) in his search 
for the philosopher’s stone, stumbled, 
by accident, upon a more sure method 
of producing the precious metals by the 
discovery of an art which has served 
to enrich his countrymen. This 
manufactory, so celebrated in the time 
of Augustus II., was annihilated 
in the Seven Years’ War, being then 
plundered, and its workmen and models, 
along with the archives, carried away 
by Frederick the Great. It continued 
to enjoy royal patronage at a heavy 
expense to the private purse of the 
Saxon Sovereign, but the King has 
lately ceded it to the Government. It 
is now carried on for profit, and cheap¬ 
ness being the object, it now makes a 
revenue, but the articles made are very 
inferior to those of former times. The 
managers of the establishment are very 
civil in showing it to strangers, who 
will find here a very large assortment 
of articles for sale or inspection. 

A Tunnel —24 m. long—has been in 
progress many years from the level of 
tho Elbe at Meissen to Freiberg, in 
order to drain the silver-mines around 
that town, which have been for ages 
choked with water.] 

Beyond Niederau as far as Dresden 
the railway runs at the foot of a range 




468 


ROUTE 87. —DRESDEN. COLLECTIONS. 


Sect. VII. 


of hills, covered with vineyards, slop¬ 
ing down to the Elbe, producing, under 
skilful management, a tolerable wine, 
and dotted over with elegant villas and 
country-houses. 

The high road from Meissen to 
Dresden is crossed at Koswig. rt. On 
a height is seen the tower of the castle 
of Weistrupp , retreat of the Duke of 
Lucca, who abdicated in favour of his 
son 1849. 1. lies Lossnitz, where is a 

large manufactory of champagne ! 

2 Dresden Terminus in the Neu- 
stadt, on the rt. hank of the Elbe, 
not far from the Japanese Palace, hut 
20 min. drive from the hotels in the 
Altstadt. Fiacres and droschkies are 
ready to convey passengers to all parts 
of the town, for 10 and 5 neu groschen. 

Dresden.— Inns : Victoria, good ; 
an enormous building; makes up 200 
beds;—*11. de Saxe, in the Neu Markt, 
very good;—*H. de Bellevue, by the 
river, best;—H. de Pologne, Schloss- 
gasse ; table d’hote good ;—British II.; 
—II. de 1’Europe; — H. de France, 
Wilsdruffer Gasse, good ; table-d’hote, 
20 S. gr.;—Stadt Berlin, good. 

In the Neustadt, Stadt Wien, over¬ 
looking the river, one of the best;— 
II. zum Kronprinz. At night, in the 
summer time, the inns overflow with 
travellers; and to secure beds it is best 
to order them by telegram (cost 8 N. 
gr. for 20 words.) 

Boarding-houses: Frau von Zschii- 
schens, Biicknitzer St., and that of 
Madame Maltzahn, are recommended 
as comfortable. The Misses Lindner 
receive ladies and families only, 7, Dip- 
poldiswalder Gasse, very respectable, 
comfortable, and moderate. The house 
of Madame Dillon, widow of an Eng¬ 
lish gentleman, is admirably kept, and 
highly recommended, in the Burger 
Wiese. 

The capital of Saxony, residence of 
its sovereign of the Albertine line, and 
seat of the government ( Popidation 
156,000—6000 Rom. Cath.), is situated 
on the Elbe; the old town stands on 
the 1. hank, but is surrounded by mo¬ 
dern suburbs. Dresden was named by 
Herder “the German Florence; M and 
in its pleasing situation, in the number 
and excellence of its collections, and 


more especially in its richly stored Pic¬ 
ture Gallery, it may deserve to he com¬ 
pared, at a respectful distance, with the 
Florence of Italy. Few European capi¬ 
tals contain a greater number of objects 
calculated to gratify the curiosity of an 
intelligent traveller. It is the residence 
of many men of learning and talent, 
who contribute much to render society 
agreeable. The opera is good, and 
music is much cultivated; the climate 
is generally mild and agreeable, food 
and lodgings are not dear. It has been 
much resorted to since 1830 by the 
English for education and economy. 
The town itself is more pleasing at a 
distance, than striking when examined 
in detail; hut in the 3 new suburbs 
which have sprung into existence since 
1830, are some fine streets: it has one 
or two imposing public buildings, and its 
situation is pretty, and its environs are 
delightful. The most healthy localities 
are the Neustadt and the S. streets of 
the old town, Waisenhaus Strasse, 
Halbe Gasse, sometimes called the 
English quarter. 

The Post and Diligence offices are 
included in one handsome building in 
the Wilsdruffer Platz. A letter to or 
from England reaches in 36 hrs. 

Fiacres , or 2-horse carriages, at 1 
thaler the hour ; and Cabs , called 
Droschken , at 4 gros the course, if not 
taken across the Elbe. Bridge toll not 
included. If bridge he crossed, 5 gros; 
6 gros by the k hour, 12 by the hour. 
For longer drives make a bargain. 
They are stationed in the public places. 
An excellent job-carriage may he hired 
at 4 or 5 thalers for the day, and a 
trinkgeld to the driver. 

All the collections may he seen dur¬ 
ing the months, the days, or hours, 
when they are not open to the public , by 
paying a fee of 2 dollars for a ticket 
(Einlasskarte), which admits 6 persons, 
and also secures the attendance of 
the directors; hut an appointment must 
he made with them beforehand. The 
directors of the collections are men of 
intelligence, possessing and willing to 
impart every information respecting 
the objects of which they have charge. 

The services of a valet de place (who 
usually receives 1 dollar 13 N. gr. per 







1 Post Office . 

2 Frauen kirche 

3 Catholic Church 
^ |Terrace of' BrzihZ. 

[Palace of' Do . 

5 Royal Palace _ 

6 Picture Gallery 

7 Zninper . 

8 Japanese Palace 

9 Theatr'c 
lO Landhaus 

]1 Polytechnic Ins * 


Synagogue 


13 Sophienkirche . D e 

JA^reurkirche Ee 

1 b Zctfiyhayts ,Arsenal ) Yd 




TtirchJurO 


J.& C.WaJker Sculp. 


Station 










































































.1 

. 
























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. 



































. 























- : TV 









4G9 


Saxony. route 87. —Dresden. 

diem, 20 N. gr. for ^ day) are par¬ 
ticularly required at Dresden, to pro¬ 
cure tickets for the open collections, 
and to make appointments during 
the close months, and for those collec¬ 
tions which are shown only on pay¬ 
ment of a fee. If a foreigner were 
to undertake this for himself, he would 
sustain a great loss of time. The 
tickets are usually all engaged beforc- 
I hand, so that a stranger pressed for 
time has little chance of obtaining them 
exactly at the moment when he wants 
them, except by the agency of a valet 
de place. By his aid, also, the solitary 
traveller is enabled to join parties about 
to visit the collections; and, instead of 
paying the entire fee, which is onerous 
for one or two persons, may contribute 
only his share, by which considerable 
expense is spared. 

Days and hours of admission to the 
Collections in Dresden: 

Antiquities , Saxon, daily, fee 5 N. gr. 

Antique Sculpture (Antiken) in Ja¬ 
panese Palace, from May 1st to Oct. 
31st, Wednesday and Saturday, 10—2. 
At other times fee 5 N. gr. 

China and Pottery (Japanese Palace), 
on Wednesday from 2—6 from May 1st 
to Oct. 31st. At other times fee 2 
dollars admits 6 persons. 

Green Vault (Griins Gewdlhe), daily, 
fee 2 dollars 1 to 6 persons. 

Historical Museum (Armoury), daily 
any hour, fee 2 dollars admits 6 per- 
! sons. 

Library in Japanese Palace, gratis 
daily, 9—1. Strangers are shown 
round by an attendant, fee 5 N. gr. 

Picture Gallery, open free on Sundays 
i and holidays from 12—3, and Tuesday, 

I Thursday, and Friday, 10—4 p.m. Fee 
on Monday and Wednesday (10—4), 
5 hi. gr.; on Saturday, fee 15 N. gr. 

Natural History Museum (Zwinger), 
free Tuesday and Friday, 8—10. On 
Monday, Wednesday, and Thursday, 
9—12, fee 5 N. gr. 

Prints and Drawings , free Tuesday 
and Friday, 10—2. 


Monday , Plaster Casts, 10—1. 
Tuesday .—Picture Gallery, 10—4, 
gratis. Collection of Engravings and 


COLL ECTiONS. BRIDG ES. 

Drawings, 8—12. Gems, 8—12. Ca¬ 
binet of Minerals, 10—12; of Zoology, 
8—10. 

Wednesday. —Antique Sculpture, 9—1 
(tickets). Collection ofPorcelain, 2—6. 

Thursday. — Picture Gallery, 10—4, 
gratis. Historical Museum, 8—12 and 
2—6 (tickets). Meng’s Plaster Casts, 
8 — 12 . 

Friday. —Picture Gallery; Cabinet 
of Minerals, 10—12. Cabinet of Zoo¬ 
logy, 8—10. 

Saturday. —Antique Sculpture, 9—l. 
Cabinet of Minerals, Cabinet of Zoo¬ 
logy, 9—12, fee 5 N.gr. 

Tickets of Admission to the Green 
Vaults, Armoury, Engravings, and Col¬ 
lection of China, cost 2 thalers, and 
admit 6 persons. 

1S T .B. The ‘ Dresdener Anzoiger’ 
newspaper gives a ‘ Tagebuch,’ or list 
of the sights open every day, with the 
modes of obtaining admission. 

English Church , finished 1869, near 
the Bohemian Ely. Stat. Service , 
Sundays, at 11 a.m. and 5 P.M: 

The Old Bridge over the Elbe , entirely of 
stone, commands an excellent view of 
the town and valley of the Elbe. It was 
originally built with money raised by 
the sale of dispensations from the pope 
for eating butter and eggs during Lent. 
It is of a -very solid construction, in 
order that it may resist the force of the 
stream (which often rises 16 ft. in 24 lx., 
when the snow begins to melt), and the 
shocks of floating masses of ice in the 
spring, during the months of January 
and February the river is usually frozen 
over. The fourth pier from the side of 
the Altstadt was blown up by the 
French general Davoust, in 1813, to 
facilitate his retreat to Leipzig, and the 
two adjoining ai'ches fell. 

N.B. Foot passengers in crossing the 
bridge always take the path on the right 
hand, “a rule of the road,” which is 
enforced by the police, and prevents 
collision and confusion. 

The Marien Brucke, a still finer 
Bridge , £ mile W., lower down the 
river, carries over the railway which 
connects the Leipzig with the Prague 
line. This bridge has also a carriage 
and foot way. The cost was 150,000/. 
Its 12 large arches are of 100 ft. span; 











470 R. 87. —DRESDEN’. CHURCHES. GREEN VAULT. 


Sect. VII. 


the 2 smaller of 50 ft. It is 1420 ft. long, 
54 ft. wide, and 40 ft. above the river. 

The Frauenkirche (Ch. of our Lady) is 
a very handsome Italian edifice, entirely 
of stone, even to the dome, which is of 
such solid construction that the shells 
and halls directed against it by Fre¬ 
derick the Great (in 1760) rebounded 
from its surface, without doing it any 
injury. The inside is fitted up just like 
a theatre, with boxes, pit, &c. A 
good view may be had from the out¬ 
side of the cupola, and an easy staircase 
leads up to it. 

The Catholic or Court Church between 
the bridge and the palace is a profusely 
decorated but tasteless building, in the 
Italian style. It is connected with the 
palace by a bridge thrown over the 
street, and is attended by the royal 
family. They profess the ft. Catholic 
faith, though their subjects are Lu¬ 
therans, since the time of Augustus 
II. (1697), who, as the price of obtain¬ 
ing the crown of Poland, adjured the 
religion of which his ancestors had 
been the earliest and most faithful sup¬ 
porters. The music in this church is 
celebrated. It is under the superin¬ 
tendence of the director of the opera, 
who merely transfers his band from the 
orchestra of the theatre to the organ 
loft. High mass is performed on Sun¬ 
days and festivals, from 11 to 12, and 
no stranger should miss hearing it. 
The evening service at 4; likewise fine 
music. During service, the male and 
female parts of the congregation are 
arranged on opposite sides of the church. 
The organ, made by Silbermann, is con¬ 
sidered very good. The altar-piece is 
by Raphael Mengs, a native artist. 

The Terrace of Briihl , approached by 
a grand flight of broad steps from the 
foot of the bridge, runs along the 1. 
bank of the Elbe, and commands a de¬ 
lightful view. It is a deservedly fa¬ 
vourite promenade and lounge of the 
inhabitants, who resort much to the 
places of entertainment situated on it, 
that is, to the Cafe'Reale for ices in the 
afternoon, and to the Belvidere Cafe' 
and Restauration in the evening for 
supper, tea, beer, and music. 

The Palace of Briihl, contiguous to the 
terrace, was the residence of the profli¬ 


gate minister of Augustus II. Near it 
is the Academy of Fine Arts. Here 
are the Studios of Bendemann and 
Hiibner. The Queen Dowager occupies 
part of this palace. 

The Royal Palace (Schloss ), opposite 
the bridge, is an ancient building, of 
very ungainly architecture and great 
extent. Within, it possesses a great 
attraction for the lovers of modem art 
in the frescoes, by Bendemann, in the 
Thron Saal. A series of scenes painted 
on gold grounds, representing the 
various conditions of life, its occupa¬ 
tions and labours from the cradle to the 
grave, form a frieze round the room. 
At the lower end are figures of law¬ 
givers, from Moses downwards, heroes 
and great men; at the upper, four large 
compositions from the history of the 
Emperor Henry the Fowler, bearing 
upon the 4 estates of the realm, Peasants, 
Citizens, Nobles (defeat of the Hun¬ 
garians at Merseburg), Clergy. These 
paintings are superior to most of the 
modern German frescoes. The Ball¬ 
room is painted with subjects from the 
mythology and private life of the an¬ 
cient Greeks. The state rooms are 
shown, when the court is absent, by an 
officer called Bettmeister. 

The **Green Vault (dasgriine Gewolbe ), 
a range of vaulted apartments, on the 
ground floor of the Palace, are so called, 
probably, from the colour of the painted 
walls or of the hangings with which 
the chambers were originally decorated. 
They form a separate and curious ex¬ 
hibition, and are shown on week-days 
from 8 to 12, and from 2 to 6. Tickets, 
which cost 2 thalers for a party num¬ 
bering from 1 to 6, can be obtained at 
the entrance. The inspector conducts 
parties not exceeding 6 in number, and 
explains every thing to them. 

The Saxon princes, besides being far 
more powerful and important in former 
times than at present, were also among 
the richest sovereigns of Europe; the 
Freiberg silver-mines alone were an 
immense source of wealth, previous to 
the discovery of America. The nu¬ 
merous and valuable collections of 
various kinds, still existing in the 
capital, are proofs both of their riches 
and their taste. One mode by which 



471 


Saxony. 


ROUTE 87. —DRESDEN. GREEN VAULT. 


they showed their magnificence, and 
expended their money, was in the accu¬ 
mulation of all kinds of rare objects, 
such as jewels and exquisite carvings, 
in the precious metals, and in other 
costly materials, which were deposited 
in a secret strong room xmder their 
palace, where it is believed that vast 
treasures of money were also accumu¬ 
lated. This is the origin of the col¬ 
lection now known as the Green 
Vault, the costliest objects dating from 
tho time of Augustus the Strong, 
1724, It is probably the richest which 
any European monarch at this time pos¬ 
sesses; indeed, the treasures remind one 
rather of the gorgeous, dazzling mag¬ 
nificence of oriental despots, or the 
magic productions of Aladdin’s lamp 
in the eastern tale. The value of the 
whole must amount to several millions. 

A large portion of the objects are 
in the highest degree worthy of atten¬ 
tion as works of art,* while others are 
at least wonderful as the elaborate pro¬ 
ductions of patient toil and skill, and of 
arts which in the present day may be 
said to be almost extinct, or at least to 
have degenerated. The treasures are 
contained in 8 apartments, each exceed¬ 
ing the previous one in the splendour 
and richness of its contents; the whole 
has been re-arranged within a few years. 
The objects are so numerous, that it is 
quite impossible to allude to more than 
a few of the most striking in each 
chamber. 

1st room contains objects in bronze, 
as, a Crucifix, by John of Bologna , a 
masterpiece — a little dog scratching 
itself, by Peter Vischer —a copy of the 
Farnese bull—the Rape of Proserpine. 
A statue of Charles II. of England on 
horseback, in the character of St. George, 
cut out of a piece of solid cast iron. 

2nd, or Ivory Cabinet; a Crucifix 
attributed to Michael Angelo , and not 
unworthy of him—a fight between 
two drunken musicians by Albert 
Diircr (?) — a number of beautiful 
vases, some of large size, cut out of 
a single piece of ivory — a cup, on 
which is carved the story of the Foolish 
Virgins—the Fall of Lucifer and the 

* See Lewis Gruner's ‘Illustrations of the 
Green Vaults/ a beautiful work. 


Wicked Angels, a most wonderful group 
of 142 figures, carved in one piece of 
ivory, 16 inches high—2 horses’ heads 
in relief, by Michael Angelo. There is 
an interesting work of the present day, 
a goblet of ivory and stag’s horn, cut 
in the manner of a cameo with figures 
representing a hunt, by Schulz, an artist 
of Meiningen. 

3rd contains Florentine mosaics ; en¬ 
graved shells; ostrich eggs, carved and 
ornamented: No. 41 is an egg said to 
have been laid by an ostrich kept in the 
menagerie of Moritzburg; objects in 
amber, particularly a cabinet, entirely 
of this precious material—a chimney- 
piece of Dresden china (1788), orna¬ 
mented with precious stones, all of 
them the produce of Saxony; paintings 
in Enamel , especially a Madonna and 
Ecce Homo, by Raphael Mengs when 
young—portraits of Peter the Great 
and Augustus the Strong, by Dinglinger 
—a fruit dish, with a battle-piece, by 
Noel Landin of Limoges. 

4th is filled with gold and silver plate 
which adorned the banquets of the 
Saxon palace. A part of this collec¬ 
tion was carried to Frankfurt at the 
coi’onation of the Emperors by the 
Electors of Saxony, who held the 
hereditary office of Arch-Marshal of 
the empire.. A baptismal dish, made 
at Nuremberg 1620, has served at all 
the royal christenings. *A cup by 
Benvenuto Cellini. 

5th. Vessels formed of half-precious 
stones, such as agates, chalcedony, 
rock crystal, lapis lazuli, &c.;—2 gob¬ 
lets composed entirely of cut gems 
(some of them antiques), are valued at 
6000 dollars each. An antique onyx 
cameo, bearing the portrait of Augustus. 
The cups of Moss agate are particu¬ 
larly beautiful. 

Here may be seen the largest enamel 
known, a Magdalen, by — Dim]linger. 
A set of vessels cut out of solid rock 
crystal are valuable for their size and 
brightness ; the modern manufacture 
of crystal glass, however, has attained 
such excellence, as nearly to equal 
them in appearance. 

6th room contains a large assem¬ 
blage of cleverly cut figures in ivory 
and wood, also numerous caricature 






472 


ROUTE 87. —DRESDEN’. GREEN VAULT. Sect. VII. 


figures of men and animals formed of 
single pearls, of odd shapes and un¬ 
usual size, chiefly found in the Elster, 
a Saxon river. For instance, the body 
of a court dwarf of the King of Spain is 
represented by a pearl as large as a hen’s 
egg. Besides these, there are a num¬ 
ber of other most costly jewels and 
trinkets, on which a vast deal of inge¬ 
nuity and wealth must have been ex¬ 
pended. Two old watches, called Nu¬ 
remberg eggs (there is a finer one in 
the Bustkammer) from their shape and 
the name of the place where they were 
first made, in 1500. 

Among the carvings in wood are 
two combats of knights, by that emi¬ 
nent sculptor, Colin of Mechlin , who 
executed the reliefs on Maximilian’s 
tomb at Innsbruck; others are attri¬ 
buted to A. Diirer. 

The 7th room. The regalia used at 
the coronation of Augustus II. as King 
of Poland. 

The 8th and last apartment sur¬ 
passes all the others tenfold in the va¬ 
lue and splendour of its contents. 
Among the wonders of this cabinet 
are the works of Dinglinger , an artist 
who may be fairly termed the Saxon 
Benvenuto Cellini. He and two re¬ 
latives of inferior skill were almost 
entirely employed by the Electors of 
Saxony; and a close examination of 
the workmanship displayed in his per¬ 
formances will show that they are the 
productions of no mean artist. One 
of these pieces is called the Court of 
the Great Mogul , and represents the 
Emperor Aurengzebe upon his throne, 
surrounded by his guards and courtiers, 
in the most appropriate costumes ac¬ 
cording to the description of Taver¬ 
nier, to the number of 132 figures, all 
of pure gold enamelled. The variety 
of character, and the true expression 
of each of the figures, deserve the mi¬ 
nutest inspection. This elaborate trin¬ 
ket, begun in 1701, employed Dinglin¬ 
ger 8 years, and cost 58,400 dollars. 
Another piece, by the same artist, 
portrays artizans of different trades, 
all remarkable for the delicacy and per¬ 
fection with which they are executed. 
There are many other specimens of 
Dinglinger’s skill; he flourished be¬ 


tween 1702 and 1720, and was court 
jeweller at Dresden. 

Other things to be noticed in this 
room are — an immense specimen of 
uncut Peruvian emeralds, given by 
Rudolph II. to the Elector of Saxony ; 
a portion of a mass of solid native sil¬ 
ver from the Himmelsfurst mine at 
Freiberg. It is recorded, that no less 
than 2176 cwt. of silver were ob¬ 
tained in the course of 50 years from 
that mine alone. The Saxon Beg alia 
include—the Electoral sword borne 
by the Saxon princes at the Imperial 
Coronations ; the decorations belong¬ 
ing to a miner’s uniform, made for the 
Elector John George, 1676; a large 
collection of chains, collars, and orders; 
among which are the Garter, Golden 
Fleece, Polish Eagle, &c., worn by 
Saxon princes. The largest sardonyx 
known, inches long, and broad; 
it is oval, and beautifully regular. 

Last of all comes a glass case filled 
with most precious suits of the most 
costly jewels;—the 1st division con¬ 
tains Sapphires; the largest of them, 
an uncut specimen, was a gift of Peter 
the Great;—the 2nd, Emeralds ;— 
3rd, Bubies; the two largest spinels 
weigh 48 and 59 carats ;—4th, Bearls; 
one set of native Saxon pearls, from 
the Elster in Voigtland, are of course 
inferior to the oriental. Among 63 
rings there are two which belonged 
to Martin Luther; one a cornelian 
bearing a rose, and in its centre a 
cross; the other his enamelled seal 
ring, bearing a death’s head, and the 
motto, “ Mori saepe cogita.” 

The 5th division is devoted to Dia¬ 
monds. The diamond decorations of 
the gala dress of the Elector consist of 
buttons, collar, sword hilt and scab¬ 
bard, all of diamonds; the 3 brilliants 
in the epaulette weigh nearly 50 carats 
each. But the most remarkable stone 
of all, which is considered unique, is a 
green brilliant , weighing 160 grains = 
40 carats. 6th division, also fitted with 
diamonds, includes the Saxon order of 
the Bue Garland, and 7 orders of the 
Golden Fleece, &c., &c., &c. 

Nearly opposite the Schloss stands 
the handsome Theatre (built by Semper, 
1841), and between it and the gardens 





473 


Saxony. route 87 . —Dresden. 

is a statue of Carl von Weber, by Riot- 
schel. 

**The Picture Gallery,* the finest 
collection of paintings in Germany, is 
open to the public every day from 10 to 
4, but on Sundays 12 to 3. On Sunday, 
Monday , Tuesday, and Thursday gratis: 
on other days on paying a fee of 5 to 10 
N. gros. A Germanf catalogue costs 
25 N. gr., a French one 1 thaler. It is 
well warmed and furnished with seats. 

The New Gallery, occupying the 4th 
side of the Zwinger (see below), was 
begun 1846 and opened 1855. It is a 
handsome edifice of red sandstone with 
Corinthian columns in front, and sculp¬ 
tured decorations by Rietschel and 
Hanoi of Dresden. The architect was 
Semper. On entering the central arch¬ 
way from the side of the river, the door 
on the 1. leads into the Gallery of Casts. 
Passing into the Grand Hall, through 
the doorway on the rt., the entrance to 
the Print Room is facing you. 

The rudiments of a collection of paint¬ 
ings were made in the reign of Duke 
George, the friend of Lucas Cranach; 
but Augustus II. may be regarded as 
the founder of the Gallery. It was 
greatly increased, and received some of 
its brightest ornaments, in the reign of 
Augustus III., who purchased the col¬ 
lection of the Duke of Modena, and 
the famous Madonna di San Sisto of 
Raphael. “ While lingering among 
the great productions of a captivating 
art, it is a pleasant feeling that they 
have had the rare fortune to be treated 
with reverence by every hostile hand. 
Frederick the Great bombarded Dresden, 
battered down its churches, laid its 
streets in ruins, but ordered his cannon 
and mortars to keep clear of the Picture 
Gallery. He entered as a conqueror, 
levied the taxes, administered the go¬ 
vernment, and, with an affectation of 
humility, asked permission of the cap¬ 
tive electress to visit the Gallery as a 
stranger. Napoleon’s policy, too-, led 
him to treat Saxony with much con- 

* See Kugler’s Handbook of Painting, Part I., 
Italian School, edited by Kastlake: Parts II. 
and III., Germany and Netherlands, edited by 
Dr. Waagen: Part IV., France and Spain, by Sir 
Edmund Head, Bart. 

f Director HUbner’s Catalogue is useful and 
^Instructive, 


PICTURE GALLERY. 

sideration, and was the guardian angel 
of her pictures. Not one of them 
made the journey to Paris.”— Russell's 

Germany. 

It is much to be regretted that many 
of the pictures of this gallery, includ¬ 
ing the Raphael and the Correggios, have 
suffered greatly, first from neglect, and 
afterwards from injudicious cleaning. 

There is room in the New Gallery 
only for a portion of the large collec¬ 
tion of the Saxon sovereign. 

All the finest works of the old mas¬ 
ters are arranged in the 2 upper stories 
of the building. In the centre, under 
the dome, are hung 5 tapestries after 
Raphael’s Cartoons. 

A few of the choicest works are here 
set down, with the view of guiding the 
eye of the spectator, and saving him 
from the mortification of having passed 
over any of acknowledged merit. 

Italian Schools. No collection out 
of Italy contains a finer Raphael, or 
can compete with this in the works of 
the Venetian masters and Correggio. 

One room (A) is set apart for 
Raphael’s masterpiece, the Madonna di 
San Sisto, and another at the further 
extremity (N) for Holbein’s Madonna. 

Raphael’s Madonna di San Sisto, 
1020, is the gem of the Dresden Gallery; 
a capital painting scarcely surpassed 
by any work of Raphael’s existing in 
Italy, and equalled by none out of 
it. It is thought to be almost en¬ 
tirely by his own hand, and is in his 
latest and best manner, and was exe¬ 
cuted only a few years before his death. 
The sainted Pope Sixtus, from whom 
the picture is named, is represented on 
the one side gazing with pious and 
trembling awe upon the figure of the 
Virgin, who is soaring up to heaven in 
all the majesty with which the Roman 
Catholic religion has surrounded her, 
bearing in her arms the divine child. 
“ The head of the Virgin is perhaps 
nearer the perfection of female beauty 
and elegance than anything in paint¬ 
ing ; it is truly impressive and beau¬ 
tiful.”— Wilkie. Opposite to the Pope 
kneels St. Barbara; her youthful beauty 
and fervour contrast admirably with 
his aged form. Below this group 
are pvo angelic children, their court- 





ZWINGER. 


474 ROUTE 87. —DRESDEN. PICTURE GALLERY. Sect. VII. 



tenances beaming with innocence and 
intelligence, their eyes up-turned to¬ 
wards the central figures of the pic¬ 
ture ; they are among the happiest 
efforts of art. This picture was pur¬ 
chased from a convent at Piacenza for 
17,000 ducats (about 8000/.). 

Albano —A Dance of Cupids. 

Baroooio —Hagar in the Desert, 

Giovanni Bellini —Christ : a whole- 
length figure, of great majesty. Por¬ 
trait of the Doge Loredano. 

Sandro Botticelli —Miracles of St. 
Zenobio : in 4 scenes. 

Caravaggio —The Card-players : full 
of truth and nature. 

Annibal Caracci —Fame soaring up- 
wards: very spirited. — St. Matthew 
writing his Gospel under the superin¬ 
tendence of the Virgin, with St. John 
and St. Francis. 

Carlo Cignani— Joseph and Potiphar’s 
Wife : a masterpiece. 

Carlo Dolce —St. Cecilia ; one of the 
best pictures of the painter. — Our 
Saviour blessing the bread, the same as 
the picture of Burleigh. 

Correggio. —Excepting at Parma, 
so many and such excellent works of 
this artist ai-e to be met with nowhere 
in Europe. The following 6 paintings 
are arranged here according to the 
periods of the artist’s life at which 
they were executed, as it is peculiarly 
interesting to watch the change in style 
and the progress to perfection made 
by so great a master in ,his art:—• 
The Virgin and Child with St. Francis , 
painted, it is said, at the age of 18. 
— Portrait of a Man, supposed to be 
the physician of the artist. — The 
far-famed picture of the Virgin and 
infant Jesus in the Manger, known by 
the name of u La Notte” the Night, 
“ Correggio has here converted the 
literal representation of a circumstance 
of sacred history into a divine piece of 
poetry, when he gave us that emanation 
of supernatural light streaming from 
the form of the celestial child, and 
illuminating the ecstatic face of the 
Virgin mother, who bends over her 
infant undazzled ; while another female 
draws back, veiling her eyes with her 
hand, as if unable to endure the ra¬ 
diance. Far off through the gloom of 




































































































475 


Saxony. route 87. —Dresden, 

night wo see the morning just breaking 
along the eastern horizon—emblem of 
the ‘ day-spring from on high.’ ” Mrs. 
Jamieson. —“The Notte of Correggio 
is what I expected the most from, and 
the condition of which has given me 
the greatest disappointment. Yet, how 
beautiful the arrangement! All the 
powers of the art are here united to 
make a perfect work. Here the sim¬ 
plicity of the drawing of the Virgin 
and Child is shown in contrast with 
the foreshortening of the group of 
Angels; the strongest unity of effect 
with the most perfect system of in¬ 
tricacy. The emitting the light from 
the child, though a supernatural illu¬ 
sion, is eminently successful; it looks 
neither forced nor improbable. What¬ 
ever the Notte may have been, the hand 
of the picture*cleaner is here manifest; 
and those who like bright day-light 
effect will have it here to their heart’s 
content. Correggio did not, like Rem¬ 
brandt, in these effects attempt to give 
the colour of lamplight; the phospho¬ 
rescent quality of light was more his 
aim, as in his ‘ Christ in the Garden.’ 
But here the light on the Virgin and 
Child is white, chalky, and thin; and 
the rest of the picture has somewhat 
the poverty of a copy. The group of 
shepherds indeed appear, in character 
and in the beauty of painting, infe¬ 
rior to the general run of Correggio’s 
figures; the man at the side is even 
coarse. Still, however, the matchless 
beauty of the Virgin and Child, the 
group of Angels over head, the day¬ 
break in the sky, and the whole ar¬ 
rangement of light and shadow, give 
it the right to be considered, in con¬ 
ception at least, the greatest of his 
works. * * For the conception, pur¬ 
pose, and originality,—as an arrange¬ 
ment of colour, effect, and of sentiment, 

-—I consider it one of the first works the 
art of painting has to boast of; and, in 
the adaptation of light and shadow to 
the illusion of the subject, one of the 
triumphs of modern art.” Wilkie. — 
This picture was begun about the year 
1522, and is one of the most admirable 
specimens of that masterly manage¬ 
ment of light and shade in which Cor- 
yeggio is unrivalled.—Virgin and Child, 


PICTURE GALLERY. 

with St. George. The figures of the 
children and woman are particularly 
admired for their grace and sweet¬ 
ness of expression. — The recumbent 
Magdalen , one of the sweetest and most 
pleasing, as well as the most faultless 
pictures ever painted. It is distin¬ 
guished for its peculiar softness of out¬ 
line, and is executed in the artist’s best 
manner. “It is in its pristine con¬ 
dition ; almost as left by the master, 
without even varnish. The head, neck, 
and arms are beautiful; the face and 
right arm one of the finest pieces of 
painting I have witnessed. The sha¬ 
dows are extremely loaded ; the lights, 
though painted flat and floating, are, 
compared with them, thin and smooth. 
The background and darks of the pic¬ 
ture, even the blue drapery, want rich¬ 
ness and transparency.” Wilkie. — The 
Virgin and Child with St. Sebastian , 
painted about 1528, is one of the most 
striking examples of the master’s magic 
chiaro-scuro, remarkable, to use the 
words of an eminent artist, for the 
“ exquisite truth of tint in the passage 
from light to dark; so that in this pic¬ 
ture, as in nature, the spectator is soon 
unconscious of the presence of shade.” 

Dosso JDossi — The Fathers of the 
Church, SS. Gregory, Augustine, and 
Jerome, meditating on the immaculate 
Conception of the Virgin; a grand work. 

Francia —Adoration of Shepherds.— 
The Baptism in Jordan. 

Garofalo ( Benvenuto ) — The Virgin 
kneeling before the infant Saviour, 
an Angel standing opposite. 

Gimignano ( Vicenzio di San )—A Vir¬ 
gin and Child; an exquisite little picture. 

Giorgione — Meeting of Jacob and 
Rachel (The Embrace). 

Guido —Bacchus as a Child.—Venus. 

Moretto —Madonna of Monte Paeno. 

Palma Vecchio —The Virgin and in¬ 
fant Saviour with St. John: a work 
of fascinating beauty. — Palma’s 3 
Daughters. — Two Holy Families with 
St. Catherine. 

Parmigiano — Virgin and Child, 
known as the Madonna della Rosa. 

Giulio Romano —Virgin and Child, 
with a basin. A good copy of the 
Madonna della Seggiola, by Raphael. 
And, del Sarto — Sacrifice of Isaac, 




476 


ROUTE 87. — DRESDEN. 

Titian —The Tribute Money, known 
as “II Christo della Monetaremark¬ 
able for the richness of colour, fine ex¬ 
pression, and high finish. —• The Virgin 
and Child, the Baptist, St. Jeromo, and 
St. Paul. Some of the colour is very 
beautiful. — Portrait of Pietro Aretino. 

— A reclining Venus, like that in the 
Fitzwilliam Museum. It has suffered 
dreadfully from cleaning. — Portrait of 
a young woman dressed in white, with 
a fan, called Titian’s Mistress. 

Paul Veronese —The Finding of Mo¬ 
ses. — The Adoration of the Wise 
Men : a glorious combination of colour. 

— Christ with his Disciples at Em- 

maus. — The Virgin and Child en¬ 
throned between St. John the Baptist 
and St. Jerome. Three female figures, 
representing Faith, Love, and Hope, 
are presenting to the Virgin a Mem¬ 
ber of the Venetian family of Concina, 
who had been reconciled to the Church 
after having listened to the doctrines of 
the Reformation. The other members 
of the family accompany him : a mas¬ 
terpiece of the artist. — The Marriage 
in Cana. . • 

German , Flemish , Dutch , French , and 
Spanish Schools, 

The works of the early German and 
Flemish masters here , are far inferior 
to those at Munich, Berlin, and Vi¬ 
enna ; but in the productions of the 
later period of these schools the Dres¬ 
den Gallery is very rich indeed. 

The room at the N.E. extremity of the 
gallery is set apart to contain the mas¬ 
terpiece of German art by Holbein , the 
younger—**Jacob Meyer, burgomaster 
of Basle, with his Family, kneeling 
before the Virgin, and praying for the 
recovery of his sick child. The Ma¬ 
donna has laid down the infant Saviour, 
and has taken in her arms the sickly 
infant. This is, without doubt, Hol¬ 
bein’s chef-d’oeuvre. Here are also 
portraits by him ; Crucifixions by A. 
Diirer and Roger v. der Weyden ; and a 
Virgin and Child by Van Eyck. 

Berghem — Landscapes — Cattle re¬ 
turning from the Mountains, crossing 
a swollen brook — A rocky Scene, 
mountains in the distance. 


PICTURE GALLERY. Sect. VII. 

Backhuysen —Sea-fight between the 
English and Dutch Fleets. 

Ferdinand Bol —Joseph presenting 
his Father Jacob to Pharaoh: worthy of 
Rembrandt. — The Repose in Egypt. 

. Both —Landscape: in the foreground, 
two men on horseback. 

Hans Burghmayer —St. Ursula and 
the 10,000 Virgins, a curious work by 
a rare master. 

Claude —The Flight into Egypt.— 
Acis and Galatea. 

L. Cranach —Christ on the Mount of 
Olives.—Portrait of a Saxon prince. 

Denner Balthazer — Head of an old 
Woman, with white drapery around it. 

Gerard Dow —A Dentist drawing a 
Boy’s Tooth. — Portrait of G. Dow 
painting. — A Hermit in a Cave at 
prayer. — The Artist, as a young man, 
playing on the Violin.—Here are 16 
pictures of this rare master ; all capital 
pieces. 

A. Durer —A small Crucifixion, from 
the Boehm Collection, Vienna—Draw¬ 
ing of a Rabbit, in vvater-colours— 
Portrait of a Man in black; probably 
of Lucas van Leyden. 

Karl Dujardin —Cattle-pieces. 

John van Eyck —The Virgin. 

Holbein — Besides the Virgin and 
Family of Meyer, described^bove, por¬ 
traits of Morett, an English goldsmith, 
formerly attributed to L. da Vinci, and 
of a Citizen’s Wife. 

Memling —Portrait of Antony of Bur¬ 
gundy, natural son of Philip the Good, 
a fine head, attributed to the master. 

Metzu —The Poultry-woman. 

F. Mieris —A Soldier smoking.—An 
old Man mending a Pen.—A travelling 
Tinker scrutinising a worn-out Kettle : 
one of the artist’s finest works.—The 
Artist in his Studio. 

Netscher —The Artist’s own Portrait. 
— A Lady playing, while a Man by 
her side is singing. —Portraits of Ma¬ 
dame de Montespan: in the latter is 
her son, the Duke of Maine, 




Sdxdnyi 

Ad. v. Ostade —The Tap-room.—The 
Painter in his Studio. 

Paul Potter and A. Van de Velde — 
Cattle in a wooded landscape. 

JVic. Poussin —A Sleeping Bacchante. 

Rembrandt —Portrait of his Mother; 
she is weighing gold.—The Entomb¬ 
ment of Christ.—Landscape.—His own 
Portrait, with his Wife sitting on his 
knee, and a glass of wine in his hand. 
—His daughter, holding a carnation: 
a charming picture. 

Rubens —A Picture known by the 
name of the Garden of Love, or Love 
punished.—The Judgment of Paris, a 
small, highly finished study, or nearly 
a repetition of the picture in our Na¬ 
tional Gallery.—The Boar Hunt: a very 
animated sketch. — Neptune stilling 
the tempest (called the “Quosego”), 
upon the passage of the Cardinal Fer¬ 
dinand of Austria from Spain to Italy. 
—A Sketch for the large picture of the 
Last Judgment, at Munich.—Portrait 
of a young woman in black, with 
flowers in her left hand: a charming 
picture, lights well arranged, flesh color 
exquisite.—The Vintage.—Charles V. 
crowned by France. 

I Ruisdael —The Hunt: a wooded scene, 

with a piece of water in the foreground. 
The figures are by Van de Velde. One 
of the finest pictures Ruisdael ever 
painted.—The Chateau of Bentheim. 
—Landscape, known as “ the Jews’ 
Burial-ground.” 

Schalken —A Girl examining an Egg 
at a Candle. 

Slingelandt —A Poultry-man, deal¬ 
ing with a young Woman. 

Teniers —Two Village Fetes.—Temp¬ 
tation of St. Anthony ; in which, as in 
the same subject at Berlin, the painter’s 
wife and mother-in-law appear.—The 
Alchemist’s Laboratory. — A Guard 
Room. A boy and armour in the fore¬ 
ground ; soldiers playing at cards. One 
of the most perfect of his pictures: 
clear, delicate, and free in execution.— 
Boors smoking, drinking, and gambling. 
—Peter brought out of Prison by the 
Angel: oddly treated. 

Terbunj —A Soldier writing a letter, 


for which a trumpeter is waiting.— 
A young Lady in white, before a table; 

Van der Werff —Judgment of Paris. 
—Abraham and Hagar.—The Artist 
and his Family. 

Van Dgcli— Charles the First.—His 
Queen, Henrietta Maria.—Their Chil¬ 
dren, Charles II., James II., Mary, 
afterwards Princess of Orange.—Por¬ 
trait of Old Parr, at the age of 151. 
— Portrait of the painter David 
Rykaerts, in a fur pelisse, sitting in an 
arm-chair: a fine portrait; low and 
brown in tone, but broad and powerful. 

Wouvermanns — There are no less 
than 55 pictures by him, among which 
are many of his best works, as The Horse 
Market.—The Camp.—Horsemen at an 
Inn.—A Fair.—The Halt.—The Mill. 
—Skirmish of Cavalrv, and several 
battle-pieces. 

On the ground floor of the Picture 
Gallery, are a series of 50 landscapes 
by Bernardo Canaletto, many of them 
Views of Dresden and its vicinity; the 
greater part possess no high merit. 
Also a large series of drawings in 
crayon (pastel). The best are the 
following, by Raphael Jlfengs : — 
Cupid sharpening his Arrows, is ex¬ 
cellent ; ■— and His own Portrait. 
—La Belle Chocoladiere, a waitress 
at a coffee-house in Vienna, and a 
celebrated beauty of the last century, 
who married into a high Austrian 
family (the Dietrichsteins), by Liotard , 
in crayons. The remainder are, for the 
most part, by Rosalba Carriera , a female 
artist of Venice, and of inferior mci'it. 

Below the Picture Gallery also is a 
Collection of Plaster Casts of the most 
famous antique statues. They are called 
the Mengsischen Abgiisse, having been 
made by and under the superintendence 
of the artist Raphael Mengs. 

Amongst other interesting objects is 
a group representing Menelaus carrying 
away the body of Patroclus, put to¬ 
gether and restored from antique frag¬ 
ments in the Pitti Palace at Florence. 
The exertion and muscular display of 
the one figure, contrasted with the im¬ 
potent lifeless limbs of the other, are 
not to be surpassed. The Boy on the 


route 87.— uresdex. picture galLerv; 







4?8 


ROtfTE 87j —DRESDEN - * 

Dolphin, by Raphael (?) : the original 
is preserved in Ireland; cajst of Venus, 
and colossal bust of Juno (Ludovisi), 
also deserve attention. 

Print-Room.—Cabinet of Engravings 
(Kupferstich - Sannulling) , also in a 
range of vaulted apartments, on the 
ground-floor^ is shown to the public 
on Tuesday and Friday, 10 to 2, gratis; 
on Thursday to artists. A series of 
1000 choice engravings and drawings, 
framed and glazed, are displayed on 
the walls, chronologically arranged. 
The rest of the collection, amounting 
to 250,000 engravings, is stowed away 
in portfolios. Mr. Lewis Gruner, so 
well known in England as an accom¬ 
plished artist, engraver, and author, is 
the director. He has prepared a com¬ 
plete and instructive catalogue of the 
whole. That amiable and erudite gen¬ 
tleman will give every information 
respecting it. 

This is “ one of the most complete 
collections of copper-plates in Europe, 
containing everything that is interest¬ 
ing in the history of the art, or valuable 
from practical excellence, and forms a 
supplement to the Picture Gallery. The 
oldest is of the date 1466, and is said to 
he the earliest yet known. "Whoever 
wishes to study the history of this beau¬ 
tiful art, and to he initiated in the mys¬ 
teries of connoisseur ship, can find no 
better school than the cabinet of Dres¬ 
den. It overflows with materials, and 
is under the direction of a gentleman 
who not only seems to be thoroughly 
master of his occupation, hut has the 
much rarer merit of being in the highest 
degree particularly attentive and com¬ 
municative.”— Russell. 

The collection is rich in the early 
German masters, Mechenen, Schoen- 
gauer, Albert Diirer, Wohlgemuth, &c., 
and has some valuable Marc Antonios. 

The 90 portfolios of Drawings by the 
old masters , especially of the early Ger¬ 
man, Flemish, and Dutch schools, form 
a very interesting and prominent por¬ 
tion of this cabinet. Besides 300 choice 
examples of chefs-d’oeuvres of all 
schools exhibited under glass, there is 
a valuable series of 450 portraits, unique 
probably of its kind, of all the most 


gallery, zwinger* Sect. VII* 

distinguished characters of the 19th 
cent, in Europe—sovereigns and royal 
families, statesmen and generals, artists 
and men of eminence in science and 
literature—taken from the life, chiefly 
by Prof. Vogel , and drawn with a mas¬ 
terly pencil. 

The Ewinger. —This building, erected 
in 1711, was intended merely as the 
fore-court and entrance-yard to a new 
and magnificent palace, designed by 
Augustus II., but never earned fur¬ 
ther. It is an enclosure consisting of 
an arcade, which, with the portal in 
front, are original and picturesque, but 
surmounted by heavy and inelegant 
pavilions at the sides. The whole 
is an extravaganza. In the centre 
stands a bronze statue of Frederick 
Augustus, d. 1827, by Rietschel. During 
the street revolt of May, 1849, the S.E. 
angle of the Zwinger was burned down, 
but has been rebuilt, 1855, in the same 
style, and covered with a copper roof, 
and with the Museum forming its 4th 
side composes a handsome quadrangle. 
The body of the building is now occupied 
by the following collections : — 1. The 
Distorical Museum. 2. Museum of 
Natural History. 

1. The * Historical Museum ( Rust - 
hammer or Armoury ) is well arranged 
in the W. and S. wing of the Zwinger. 
It is opened to the public only on 
Thursday, from 8 to 12, and 2 to 6, by 
tickets. On other days the way to see it 
is to pay the fee of 2 dols., which admits 
6 persons, and make an appointment 
with the inspector for a private view. 

This is undoubtedly one of the finest 
collections of the kind in Europe. 
Though less interesting, as an histo¬ 
rical collection, it surpasses the Am- 
bras collection at Vienna in armour of 
rich and studied workmanship, and 
leaves the Armoury in the Tower of 
London very far behind. It contains 
all the weapons, offensive and defensive, 
of chivalrous warfare ; all the trappings 
and accoutrements of the tournament 
and other wild sports of feudal ages. 
Wealth and skill appear to have been 
exhausted in the materials and deco¬ 
ration of the armour. The elaborate 
workmanship in gold, silver, and ivory 




479 


ROUTE 87. —DRESDEN; ARMOURY. 


Saxony. 

expended on the smaller arms, as the 
hilts of swords, stocks of guns, bits and 
stirrups, the rich damasking of the 
plate armour and gun-barrels, and the 
carving and inlaid work so profusely 
bestowed, are sufficient to excite wonder 
and admiration. There are no suits in 
it older than the time of our Henry 
VIII.; but several of Queen Elizabeth’s 
period, for man and horse; are covered 
with reliefs executed in the richest style. 

The 1st room contains specimens 
of painted glass of the 16th and 17th 
centuries; portraits of the Saxon princes 
of the Ernestine and Albertine dynas¬ 
ties. Those of Albert and his wife are 
by L. Cranach; the rest are for the 
most part copies. 

Around the room are arranged many 
articles of old furniture, cabinets, &c., 
almost all of which are ascertained to 
have belonged to the worthies whose 
effigies now decorate the walls. The 
work-table of the Electress Anne 
(1585) may interest the ladies. A 
cabinet given to Martin Luther by his 
friend the Elector John Frederick, 
containing relics of the great reformer; 
together with a small sacramental cup, 
of silver gilt and ebony, which was 
presented to him by the Elector; his 
sword which he wore when shut up in 
the Wartburg. A great number of 
ancient drinking vessels, horns, goblets, 
cups, for all varieties of potations:— 
the reader of Walter Scott will be pleased 
to discover among them the type of the 
blessed bear of Bradwardine. 

The 2nd room is filled with imple¬ 
ments of sports, pastimes, the chase, 
gardening, turning, &c.; spears, knives, 
bows, hunting-horns, and game-bags. 
A carved hunting-horn of ivory (12th 
cent. ?); the hunting-knife and horn 
of Henri IV. of France; the cross¬ 
bow of the Elector Maurice (d. 1653) ; 
of John Frederick, 1554, ornamented 
with a representation of Orpheus on one 
side, and a chase on the other. Game- 
bags embroidered by princesses ; a col¬ 
lection of dogs’ collars, arranged in chro¬ 
nological order from the time of Henry 
the Pious, 1541, to John George I., 
1656. 


3rd. Gallery of Tournament , occu¬ 
pied almost entirely with parade arms 
and armour, employed in the tilts and 
tournaments of the times of chivalry. 
Of a collection of swords here shown, 
the oldest is a French blade, bearing 
the date 1263. The labour and skill 
bestowed on the ornaments of some of 
the sword-hilts should not be over^- 
looked. In this gallery of iron statues , 
horse and foot, the most remarkable 
suits arc—one, probably of the 16th 
cent., a present to the Elector from 
Philip Emanuel, Duke of Savoy. Near 
it is a black suit worn at the burial of 
the Elector, Augustus I. A knight, 
in black armour, on horseback, usually 
formed part of the funeral procession of 
the Saxon princes; several black suits 
in the collection have been made or 
used for this purpose. In the same 
way, on gala-days and at great festi¬ 
vities, such as the accession, marriage, 
or the like event in the life of a 
Saxon prince, a knight in a suit of 
gold and silver armour, as gaily and 
as splendidly decorated as possible, 
made part of the show. On these 
joyous occasions, the horse was called 
Gala Horse (Freude Pferd), and on 
the more mournful, Mourning Horse 
(Trauer Pferd). 

A suit of armour (No. 316) for 
man and horse, manufactured in Italy, 
is hardly to be surpassed in the elabo¬ 
rate workmanship with which it is 
decorated. Its surface is covered with 
reliefs, representing the Labours of 
Hercules, the Golden Fleece, Theseus 
and Ariadne, and similar mythological 
subjects, all evincing the hand of a 
masterly artist. Another suit, of iron 
and copper gilt, was made, 1599, by 
Colman, an armourer at Augsburg, for 
Christian II. 

Several shields and helmets of iron, 
beautifully chased and ornamented with 
reliefs, such as are usually employed 
only in decorating plate or other ar¬ 
ticles formed of the precious metals. It 
is well known that the invention and 
taste in design of the most talented 
artists was called in to aid the skill of 
the armourers of those days. 

Near the end of the room are several 
tilting suits. Two of these in par- 






Sect. Vil. 


LOUTE &j. —DRESDEN; AftMOtfRt. 


4§0 

ticular deserve notice. They are the 
complete equipment of two knights on 
horseback for the more earnest species 
of tournament, the duel (Scharfrennen, 
Germ.), which sometimes ended in the 
death of one of the parties. The 
weight of each of these tilting suits is 
nearly 2 cwt. They are so ponderous 
and unwieldy, that the slightest motion 
was hardly possible; the wearer could 
not even turn his head, hut must con¬ 
tent himself with looking straight for¬ 
ward through the scanty opening of his 
heavy helmet. The suits consist of a 
breastplate, to which is attached a 
shield, and over it a black target of 
wood, still bearing the dents of the 
lance, and a back-piece. To this was 
screwed a sort of hook, serving as a 
rest for the lance, attached to the saddle 
behind. "Without this provision it 
would have hardly been possible to 
support, in a horizontal position, the 
heavy lances used in the tournament. 
The thighs were not encased, but pro¬ 
tected by two shields, or pieces of iron, 
projecting from the saddle on each side. 
The inspection of these very interesting- 
suits will give a far better insight into 
the nature of a tournament than the 
best description. The two different 
kinds of lance in use at the tournament 
are here exhibited, one pointed, and 
intended to pierce through both armour 
and wearer, and used only in the com¬ 
bat for life and death; the other ending 
in several small spikes, and intended to 
attach itself to the outside of the ar¬ 
mour, when driven against it. 

The 4th room. Another long gal¬ 
lery is filled with warlike arms for 
use in the field, not for show, less pon¬ 
derous and unwieldy than the pre¬ 
ceding. A large part have been worn 
in battle. Many of the suits were 
made for Saxon princes, and other 
historical characters, and are chronolo¬ 
gically arranged. The first is that of 
George the Bearded, Duke of Saxony. 
Near it is the sword of Thomas Miinzer, 
the leader of the rebellious peasants in 
Thuringia, in 1525; a character who 
united the knavery of Jack Cade with 
the religious madness of the chiefs of 
the Covenanters in Scotland. The 


armour of Henry the Pious; of John 
Frederick the Magnanimous, wmrn by 
him when taken prisoner at Miililberg, 
1547. There are 3 suits of the Elec¬ 
tor Maurice; near them is preserved 
the blood-stained scarf w r hich he v r ore 
at the battle of Sicvershausen, and the 
bullet fired (according to tradition) by a 
traitor on his own side; which killed him; 
1553* The fluted armour of Christian 
I. is very handsome. Near it is the 
sword with vdiich the Chancellor Crell 
was beheaded, in spite of Queen Eliza¬ 
beth’s intercession on his behalf. It 
bears the motto, “ Cave Calviniane.” 

The figure which stands 11th in the 
row of Saxon princes is that of the 
Elector John George, who was a 
leader in the Thirty Years’ War. The 
15th, a brown suit, is the armour of 
Gustavus Adolphus, which he left at 
Weissenfels before the battle of Liit- 
zen (in the fight he wore a suit of buff 
leather, now preserved at Vienna). 
The marshal’s staves of his opponents, 
Counts Tilly and Pappenheim, are 
also preserved here. 

Among the most interesting histo¬ 
rical relics is the scale armour worn by 
the heroic John Sobieski at the siege 
of Vienna in 1683 ; near it are dis¬ 
played the trophies, arms, horse-tail 
standards, &c., gained by the detach¬ 
ment of Saxon troops who fought under 
the Duke of Lorraine on that occasion. 
Their commander, the Elector of Sax¬ 
ony (whose armour is also here), was 
the first who planted a Christian flag in 
the Turkish camp. Farther on is the 
cuirass of Augustus II., surnamed the 
Strong, weighing 100 lbs. It would be 
difficult to find a man at present wdio 
could walk in his armour, “ which you 
can hardly raise from the ground; or 
wear his cap, which encloses an iron 
hat, heavier than a caldron. But 
Augustus, if you beliqve the Saxons, 
was a second Samson.” He is said to 
have “lifted a trumpeter in full armour 
and held him aloft in the palm of his 
hand—to have twisted the iron banister 
of a stair into a rope—and to have 
made love to a coy beauty by pre¬ 
senting in one hand a bag of gold, and 
breaking with the other a horseshoe.” 
— Russell’s Germany. 




Saxony. 

Against the walls and pillars of this 
room are arranged a variety of swords 
and other weapons, many of which are 
remarkable for their workmanship, 
others for their history. Battle-axes 
and maces of various dates and patterns. 
A dagger which, after being thrust into 
the body, separates into three parts on 
touching a spring, so that it would be 
impossible to extract it from a wound. 
A short sword, notched on one side, in¬ 
tended to catch the blade of an adver¬ 
sary, and break it short off before it 
could be disengaged. The dagger of 
Itudolpli of Swabia, who lost his hand 
while raising it to wound his brother, 
the Emperor Henry IV., in a single 
combat at Merseburg, 1080. The 
workmanship is very fine. 

The weapons with which the Bohe¬ 
mian peasants armed themselves during 
the Hussite War consist of flails shod 
with iron; a Polish battle-scythe, of 
the period of Kosciusko’s revolution 
—a most fearful weapon, which with 
one blow might cleave horseman and 
horse in twain; the sword of Don John 
of Austria, who commanded at Le- 
panto. 

The 5th room contains fire-arms, 
from their earliest invention in Europe. 
One of the oldest weapons of this kind 
is a rude sort of pistol, supposed to 
date from the end of the 15th cent., a 
mere iron barrel, 11^ inches long, 
with a touchhole in the side. It was 
fired not by a flint falling \ipon steel, 
but by the friction of a file upon a 
piece of firestone (pyrites). The file 
was inserted in a groove by the side of 
the touchhole, it was then covered with 
powder, and the firestone screwed down 
tightly in contact with it. When the 
file was smartly drawn out, the friction 
served to ignite the powder. The first 
step of improvement after this was a 
pistol fired by means of a piece of lighted 
tow; then came the wheel-lock, and 
afterwards the falling-lock with flint 
and steel. Specimens of all these va¬ 
rieties are preserved here; also the 
pistols of Maurice of Saxony, splen¬ 
didly inlaid with silver and ivory. 
Another pair, remarkable for their ' 
plainness, belonged to Charles XII. of 1 

[N. G.] 


481 

Sweden, and were borne by him on the 
day of his death at Frederickshal. 

6th. This room is filled with costly 
stuffs used at the coronations and other 
festivities of Augustus II. and III., 
Kings of Poland; trappings and harness 
for horses, of most rich materials; 
splendidly embroidered bits and stir¬ 
rups, and housings for sledge-horses, 
&c., on which the most elaborate orna¬ 
ments have been expended. One set 
of harness is of gold, splendidly ena¬ 
melled, set with rubies; another of 
silver set with pearls. In the 4 large 
cabinets are the state costumes of 
princes from the 16th to the 18th cent., 
and in 2 smaller ones are shoes of dif¬ 
ferent nations ; also those of Kant and 
Wieland, and the boots of Murat; 
likewise mitres worn by the bishops 
of Meissen. 

The 7 th room is fitted up with a 
Turkish tent, taken at the siege of 
Vienna, 1683 ; and its contents are 
chiefly Turkish and Eastern arms. 

8th. Includes an ethnographical col¬ 
lection ; the garments and weapons of 
various barbarous and savage nations, 
partly formed by Prof. Poppig in S. 
America,—as hammocks, clubs, poi¬ 
soned arr.ows, shooting tubes, dresses of 
coloured feathers, teeth, and claws, 
arms of the S. Sea Islanders, &c. 

9th. Contains riding equipments and 
parade trappings. Among the historical 
relics in the last and splendidly orna¬ 
mented apartments are, the robes worn 
by Augustus the Strong at his corona¬ 
tion as King of Poland. By the side 
of them, as it were to show his claim to 
the by-name of “ the Strong,” is kept 
the horseshoe which he broke in two 
between his fingers ; together with the 
written testimony of those who were 
witnesses of this feat of strength. The 
swords deposited here are among the 
chief ornaments of the collection; the 
iron hilts being of carved work, exe¬ 
cuted at Nuremberg with surprising 
correctness; there are several hundred 
of them. The little cocked hat of Peter 
the Great, and a wooden bowl, turned 
with his own hand, arc among the curi¬ 
osities here. Last of all, here may be 

Y 


ROUTE 87. —DRESDEN. ARMOURY. 








482 


ROUTE 87. —DRESDEN. MUSEUM. ANTIQUITIES. Sect. VII. 


seen a' saddle of red velvet, winch be¬ 
longed to Napoleon; the hoots which 
he wore at the battle of Dresden, which 
seem to have sadly needed cobbling; 
and the satin shoes worn by him at his 
coronation. 

Electrotypes of the objects of this 
collection are made of various sizes by 
the inspector, Mr. Biittner. There is 
also a collection of 2000 guns of va¬ 
rious fashions and ages, which may 
interest sportsmen and soldiers, and a 
series of twenty pictures representing 
tournaments, with dates and descriptions. 

The Museum of Natural History , oc¬ 
cupying the lower story of the Zwinger, 
is shown to the public gratis (May 1 to 
end of Oct.), every Tues. and Fri.; the 
Zoology, from 8 to 10; the Minerals, 
10 to 12. Payment of 5 N. grs. each 
person will procure admission Mon., 
Wed., and Thursday, from 9 to 12. 

This collection is not on a par with 
many others on the continent, hut 
the departments of Mineralogy and 
Geology contain good illustrations of 
the natural history of Saxony. Great 
part of the contents of this Museum 
were destroyed by the mob during 
the insurrection of 3rd to 9th May, 
1849, and the valuable Herbarium of 
Prof. Eeichenhach, was burned. The 
loss has been replaced by the very 
valuable Botanical Collections of the 
late King * Frederick Augustus, the gift 
of his widow. 

Minerals. —The specimens from the 
Saxon Mines, of the ores of silver, co- 
halt, lead, and iron, are very complete, 
especially those from Freiberg and the 
Erzgebirge. One specimen of native sil¬ 
ver formed part of a mass of pure metal 
large enough to serve as a dinner-table 
for the Elector, when he visited the 
Schneeherg mine, in which it was found. 

The Fossils are arranged in the 1. 
wing of the Zwinger. Obs. Bones of 
the cave hear, from Sundwig; cave 
hysena, deer, horse, elephant; rein¬ 
deer, from Oelsnitz; hippurites, from 
Lebanon; insects, from the lithogra¬ 
phic slate; Icthyosaurus trigonodon, 
from Banz in Bavaria ; Trematosaurus 


brauris, a colossal lizard, from Bern- 
burg; fishes of the Kupfer Schiefer; 
fossil trees, from the Bochtodtliegende 
of Chemnitz, one a trunk of 5^ ft. 
diam. ; Cycadeae, from Cracow ; Flora 
of the coal-field of Saxony and Bo¬ 
hemia, described by the Director 
Geinitz. 

The Japanese Palace, situated in 
the Neustadt, on the rt. bank of the 
Elbe, close to the Leipzig gate, was 
built by Augustus II., as a summer 
residence. It receives its name from 
some grotesque oriental figures and 
ornaments with which it is decorated. 
It now serves only the purposes of a 
Museum, and contains the following 
collections:— 

1. The Museum of Antiquities (Anti- 
kensammlung). 2. The Library. 3. The 
Collection of Porcelain and Terracot¬ 
tas. 

1. The Antiquities , open Wednesday 
and Saturday, from 9 to 1, from the 1st 
of May to the 31st of Oct., are placed 
on the l.-hand side of the entrance 
hall, on the ground-floor. A traveller 
fresh from the galleries of Borne and 
Florence may perhaps be disposed to 
despise this collection, which indeed 
ranks after that at Munich, &c., and 
has moreover suffered both from the 
ignorant mutilations of a barbarous age, 
and from the reparations and restora¬ 
tions of a more enlightened period. 
Nevertheless, there are many objects 
of high interest, both in point of art 
and as illustrations of antiquity. A 
new catalogue is promised. The num¬ 
bers stood as follows in October, 1849. 

In the ls£ hall are modern works in 
bronze, and marble, and copies. In 
the 2nd hall are one or two modern 
works which deserve notice, as, 53. A 
bronze bust of Gustavus Adolphus, 
made from a cast taken after his death 
—55. A bust of Charles I. of England 
—54. A bust of Cardinal Bichelieu, of 
bronze, a characteristic likeness, of good 
workmanship— 99. Deianira carried off 
by the Centaur, in bronze, the work of 
John of Bologna. 



Saxony. route 87. —Japanese 

Third Hall. No. 115. A head of 
Niohc, like the one at Florence, and, 
though inferior to it, showing that 
beautiful expression of intense mental 
agony, of which, it is said, the masters 
of the Bolognese school sometimes 
availed themselves in their representa¬ 
tions of the Virgin, especially in those 
paintings of the Descent from the Cross, 
or burial of the Saviour, in which the 
body lies in the Virgin’s arms. 116. 
A female bronze head, bust of coloured 
marble, called the eldest daughter of 
Niobc. 142. A quadrangular altar with 
niches for Lares. 143. A Torso of Pal¬ 
las Promachos, known as the Dresden 
Minerva. She is clad in the peplus, 
woven for her by Athenian virgins. 
A strip in front, representing rich em¬ 
broidery, is divided into 11 compart¬ 
ments, the subjects being the battles of 
the Goddess with the Titans. 141 is a 
restoration of 143, in clay, by Prof. 
Itauch of Berlin. 

Fifth Hall. 169. Cupid playing with 
a Lion is not very remarkable for exe¬ 
cution, but the design is captivating 
and the expression pleasing. 191. Mi¬ 
nerva represented as the goddess who 
presided over the intellectual part of 
warfare, Greek strategy, and tactics. 
(Mars was the god of wild combats 
and battles.) The figure is somewhat 
masculine in its shape and proportions 
—there is more of manhood than wo¬ 
manhood in the appearance of her broad 
shoulders and narrow hips. The -ZEgis 
is thrown on carelessly and awry. 201. 
A triangular pedestal of a candelabrum, 
of Pentelic marble. The relief carved 
on one side represents Hercules with¬ 
held by Apollo from carrying off the 
sacred tripod from Delphi; on another 
side is the reconsecration of the restored 
tripod; on the 3rd is the consecration of 
a sacred torch. They are executed in 
the style called Eginetan. This speci¬ 
men is curious, as showing the early 
progress of the art. The faces are all 
alike, and without expression; the dra¬ 
peries are stiff, and the hair resembles 
a coil of rope. 209. A Young Wrestler. 
210. Ampelos, or Satyriscus, in the 
attitude of pouring wine. There are 3 
other statues of the same Faun in the 


PALACE. ANTIQUITIES. 483 

collection. This far surpasses the others 
in beauty of workmanship. 

Sixth Hall. 260,261,262. A Lady 
of Herculaneum and her 2 Daughters, 
found in an almost perfect state in the 
theatre of Herculaneum—very fine and 
noble figures. They are interesting as 
showing the costume of a Roman lady, 
still more so as specimens of the perfect 
treatment of draperies by ancient artists. 

Seventh Hall. 283. Torso of a wounded 
Gladiator, nearly in the attitude of the 
Dying Gladiator. This is a fragment 
of great value. It is executed in the 
most finished style of art; and the ana¬ 
tomy, especially of the back, is acknow¬ 
ledged to be unequalled for accuracy. 
303. One of the sons of Niobe lying 
dead. A fine repetition of a well-known 
statue. 

Eighth Hall. 349-352. Statues of 
4 Romans engaged in the game of Ball 
(pila). They were at one time errone¬ 
ously called Gladiators, and are so re¬ 
stored, with sword-hilts in their hands ; 
but these are nobles of the time of 
Hadrian, not slaves. 351 represents tho 
Empr. Hadrian. 

Ninth Hall. 359. Bust of Caligula 
in red porphyry. The effigy of this 
emperor is rare, as most of his statues 
were destroyed after his death from 
hatred of his cruelty while living. 383. 
Venus in the attitude of the Medicean. 
The upper part down to the knees, ex¬ 
cept the hand, is antique. The back of 
this statue is considered by good jxidges 
little inferior in exquisite finish to that 
of the far-famed Venus at Florence. 
384. An Athlete anointing himself. 
386. Ariadne, abandoned by Theseus, 
is regarding him with reproachful looks 
as ho departs. The head is modern, 
but the expression of it is good. The 
shoulders are exquisite. 

The end of the 10 th Hall represents 
one side of a Columbarium, and here 
and in the adjoining room are some 
Egyptian, Etruscan, and Roman anti¬ 
quities. 

The Collection of Porcelain (Porzellan 
Saminlung), on the sunken floor of tho 

I 2 







484 


ROUTE 87. —DRESDEN. CHINA. LIBRARY. 


Sect. VII. 


Japanese Palace. It consists of more 
than 60,000 pieces of china, occupies 
20 ill-lighted apartments, and the MS. 
catalogue of it fills 5 folio volumes. 
Admission gratis by tickets on Wednes¬ 
day afternoon: at other times by fee 
of 2 dollars. 

Besides a large collection embracing 
the earliest as well as the finest produc¬ 
tions of native Saxon manufacture, there 
is an immense quantity of Chinese and 
Japanese specimens of an old date, but 
a deficiency in the later and finer quali¬ 
ties. Some of the earlier brown ware 
was turned in a lathe and polished. 
There is some Italian and Sevres ware, 
hut the European porcelain is chiefly 
that of Meissen. This collection con¬ 
tains the earliest attempts of Botti- 
cher, the alchymist, who is said to have 
made the discovery whilst seeking for 
the philosopher’s stone. The ware 
which he produced, and which led to 
the discovery of true porcelain, is an 
imperfect opaque porcelain, coloured, 
by means of oxide of iron in the clay, 
of a brown or reddish hue. * 

At the entrance near the staircase are 
2 leopards as large as life, a colossal 
bust of Augustus the Strong, and a nose¬ 
gay. The Chinese and Japanese Porce¬ 
lain occupies 11 rooms—a part consists of 
figures of animals of all sorts, grotesques, 
«&c. &c. The Japanese vases are of great 
size and price, the antiquities of Chi¬ 
nese porcelain manufacture highly curi¬ 
ous. Two plain yellow plates, and 
one of the same colour broken, are of the 
greatest rarity, since this class of ware 
is made for the use of 11 His Celestial 
Majesty” alone, and the exportation of 
them is prohibited under pain of death. 
A number of beautiful objects in biscuit, 
such as busts, figures from the antique, 
groups, the model of a monument to 
Augustus III. A nosegay of flowers of 
very delicate workmanship, of a more 
recent date, and of European origin. 
Several specimens of French china from 
Sevres were the gift of Napoleon ; 
among them are splendid vases, with 
paintings illustrating the events of his 
life, &c. &c. 

* A very full account of tie curiosities of 
the Dresden China Gallery will be found in 
Marryat’s ‘ History of Pottery and Porcelain.’ 


The Italian earthenware (Majolica) 
is ornamented with paintings founded 
on the designs of Raphael, though not 
actually executed by him. One set 
of china contained in this collection 
was given to the Elector Augustus II., 
by Frederick I. of Prussia, in exchange 
for a company of grenadiers fully 
equipped. 

In the 17th room are Etruscan, Greek, 
and Homan vases ; German urns from 
tumuli; Persian and American pottery. 
In the 18th, specimens illustrating the 
history of the art of pottery in Europe 
from the 12th to the 19th cent. 

There is a depot for the sale of Dres¬ 
den China in the town (in the Augustus 
Strasse). The Jews get up fictitious 
ware, forging the royal mark. Beware 
of such articles: the painting is had, 
and does not stand. The best security is 
to purchase from the royal depot. The 
manufactory is at Meissen, q. v. 

The Library , in the first floor of the 
Japanese Palace, contains about 400,000 
volumes, 2800 MSS., and a very large 
collection of maps. It is open every 
week-day from 9 to 1, and is exceedingly 
well arranged. All persons are allowed 
to consult and peruse hooks in the 
reading-room. The inhabitants are 
permitted to take hooks home with them, 
a privilege also extended to strangers 
who can get some respectable inhabitant 
of Dresden to come forward as security 
for them. Strangers may see the 
curiosities of this library any time they 
please, by sending a previous intimation 
of an hour to the librarian. 

There are about 2000 early printed 
hooks, from the invention of printing to 
the end of the 15th cent. Among the 
MSS. are—a Greek MS. of the 10th 
cent., interlined with Latin, supposed 
to have been written in Ireland, one of 
the greatest curiosities. Alb. Diirer’s 
Treatise on the Proportions of the 
Human Body, in his own hand-writing, 
and ornamented with his sketches (1528), 
a work deserving the notice of every 
artist. 3 volumes, representing the 
tournaments held in Dresden from 1487 
to 1564, are curious. A volume filled 
i with miniatures of the most celebrated 







485 


Saxony. route 87. —DRESDEN. 

and learned men of the 15th and 16th 
cent., drawn, it is conjectured, by the 
younger Cranach. Several volumes of 
autograph letters, among which are 
some of Luther, Melanchthon, Grotius, 
Sixtus V., and Bianca Capello. Among 
the Oriental MSS. is an 8-sided Koran, 
and another which belonged to Sultan 
Bajazet. A Mexican MS., with hierogly¬ 
phics, curiously painted on aloe-leaves. 
The Gospels, written in the 12th cent., 
with vignettes in the style of Greek art. 
Fragment of the Zendavesta, MS. of the 
15th cent. A collection of Fables in Ara¬ 
bic, with miniatures. A collection, in 19 
vols. folio, made by Fred. Augustus II., 
of portraits of the princes and prin¬ 
cesses living in the 17th cent., most 
carefully coloured, with maps of various 
countries, and plans of the principal 
towns, said to have cost 20,000 dollars. 
King Bene of Anjou’s work on Tour¬ 
naments, with drawings. The Bible 
translated into Bohemian, in the 14th 
cent., and written upon parchment 
in the middle of the 15th. Item, Dr. 
Faustus’s conjuring book. A very large 
apartment is occupied by European 
History: that of Saxony is particularly 
complete. 

The Gardens attached to the Japan¬ 
ese Palace are very agreeable. They 
are open to the public, and extend down 
ty the margin of the Elbe, whence the 
view is pleasing, including the bridge 
and many of the finest buildings in the 
town. 

In the Schloss, at the end of the 
Grosser Garten, SAV. of the town, is 
a collection of Mediaeval Antiquities 
(Alterthiimer Museum ), chiefly brought 
from the Saxon churches, such as altar- 
pieces of wood carved and gilt, mass- 
robes, bishops’ mitres, medals, abbatial 
seals, church plate, relics, &c. Here 
are several interesting relics of Luther. 

* 

Monumental Statues. — Augustus II. 
on horseback, in the new town, near 
the end of the bridge, made of ham¬ 
mered copper. The Elector Maurice in 
the Boulevard in the Altstadt, nearly 
opposite the Zeughaus (Arsenal). King 
Frederick Augustus, of bronze, in the 
centre of the Zwinger, by Rietschel. 


STATUES. THEATRES. 

Carl Maria von Weber , in front of the 
theatre. In the promenade in the 
Anton Stadt is a colossal bust of King 
Anthony. 

The Theatre near the Catholic Ch., 
from the designs of Professor Sem¬ 
per, was burned down 1869, but is to 
be rebuilt from Semper’s designs. Near 
it is a statue of Weber. The opera 
here is good (see § 42). There is a 
Minor Theatre during winter in the 
Gewandhaus—Comedy : begins at 7 ; 
during summer, in the open air in the 
Grosse Garten. 

Concerts and Music at the numerous 
cafe's in the town and neighbourhood, 
as the Belvedere. Admittance 2 Sgr. 

The English Ch ., All Saints , near the 
terminus of the Bohemian Rly., S. of 
the town, is a neat Gothic edifice with 
a spire, erected by the Goschen family, 
1869. 

Admittance to read the newspapers 
at the reading-room ( Literarisches Mu¬ 
seum ), Waisenhaus-str., No. 31, first 
floor, costs 2 n.-gr., or 10 n.-gr. the 
week. 

The best shops are in the Schloss and 
Willsclruffer Gasse, Moritz-Strasse, Neu 
Markt, and Alt Markt. 

Jos. Meyer, 13, Newmarkt, is a re¬ 
spectable ' dealer in Table and Bed- 
linens , &c., the manufacture of Saxony. 

Gafds. Those on the Briihl Terrace, 
especially the Cafe Reale and the Bel¬ 
vedere, are much frequented in summer. 
Very fair instrumental music may often 
be heard at the Belvedere in summer 
evenings.—N.B. The best on Saturday 
afternoon. Still finer music at the 
Linksche Bad , Cafe Franqais, Waisen- 
haus Str. 

Gardens and Restaurants of Public 
Resort. — Linkisches Bad ; Schiller- • 
schlosschen ; Waldschlosschen: all on 
the rt. bank of the Elbe; fine views. In 
the Grosser Garten, Grosse Wirth- 
schaft. 

Railroads : Station in the Neustadt, 
on the rt. bank of the Elbe—To Leipzig 
and Cologne (to London in 38 hrs.)— 
to Berlin in 6^ hrs.—to Bautzen and 
Breslau. Station on the S. side of tho 
Old Town—To Prague in 6-7 hrs.—to 
Vienna in 20 hrs.—to Tharand and 
Freiburg. 









486 


ROUTE 87.—URESUEK. OUTSKIRTS. 


Steamers ply lip the Elbe, in summer, 
daily : 2 or 3 times a day to Pillnitz 
and Schandau (in the Saxon Switzer¬ 
land), twice to Tetschen, and once daily 
to Leitmeritz, in Bohemia. Steamer , 
down the Elbe to Meissen, daily 2 or 
3 times. 

Physicians. —The principal are—Dr. 
"Whither, first physician to the King of 
Saxony; Dr. Seiler, 4, Park Strasse; 
Dr. Faust; Dr. Rietschel, Victoria 
Strasse; all these speak English. 

Surgeon. —F. Leonardi. 

Herr Hollander, 3 Halhe Gasse, and 
Fraulein Anna Hammer, Addresse Bu¬ 
reau, are recommended as good teachers 
of the German language. 

American Club , 22, Victoria St. 
U.S. papers and hook of addresses. 

Ernst Arnold, printseller , Schloss- 
gasse, has published engravings of the 
finest pictures in the Dresden Gallery. 

Promenades. There is no lack of 
pleasant walks in and about the town. 
Besides the Terrace of Briihl and the 
gardens of the Japanese Palace, there 
are a sort of boulevard, which surrounds 
the town in the direction of the levelled 
fortifications, and another pleasant small 
garden adjoining the Zwinger. 

Outskirts and Environs. At the dis¬ 
tance of J m. from the barrier of the 
town, on the 1. bank of the Elbe, on 
the way to Pirna, lies the Grosse Garten. 
a large park filled with fine trees, tra¬ 
versed by shady walks and drives, con¬ 
taining several coffee-houses, to which 
people resort in summer, especially 
when attracted by a very good band, 
which often plays here. 

• Adjacent to it is the Zoological Gar¬ 
den , an interesting collection of ani¬ 
mals, well arranged. 

About a mile S.E. of the town, and 
\ m. fi'om the Great Garden, are 
the fields and slopes which were the 
“scenes of the combats and bombard¬ 
ment preceding the retreat of the French 
to Leipzig.” The allied force extended 
all round the old town, from the barrier 
of Pirna on the Elbe to the marsh of 
Priesnitz on that river below the town. 


Sect. Vli. 

Immediately behind the small village of 
Racknitz is the Monument of Moreau. 
He was struck by a shot from a battery 
at the angle of the wall now occupied 
by Dr. Struve’s garden. Napoleon 
caused the distance to be measured, 
and it was found to be not less than 
2000 yards. A large square block of 
granite, surmounted by a helmet, has 
been erected on the spot where he re¬ 
ceived his mortal wound. His two legs, 
which were separated from his body by 
a cannon-ball, are buried here, but his 
body was conveyed to St. Petersburg. 
The inscription says, “ Moreau, the 
hero, fell here, by the side of Alexander, 
27th August, 1813.” The view of Dres¬ 
den from this point is very good. 

About J m. from the Silcnau Ely. 
Stat., on the outskirts of the Neustadt, 
in the Churchyard (Neustadter Kirchhof ), 
is a representation of the Dance of Death 
(Todtentanz), a procession of 27 figures, 
in several groups, each headed by the 
skeleton king, who drags on rather 
roughly, and with a triumphant air, 
the unwilling throng, composed of per¬ 
sons of all ranks, ages, and professions. 
This rude carving, in relief, is of no 
greater antiquity than 1534. An obe¬ 
lisk of granite serves as a memorial to 
40 soldiers and officers shot down by 
the Republican rioters in the streets of 
Dresden, May 1849. 

Tiedge the poet, and Adelung the phi¬ 
lologist, are buried in this churchyard. 

Weber the composer, who died in Lon¬ 
don, and whose body was removed from 
Moorfields in 1844, and Fred. Schlegel, 
lie in the Catholic churchyard in the 
Friedrichstadt. 

The rt. bank of the Elbe, above 
Dresden, rises in picturesque hills from 
the edge of the river. These arc 
topped with rich woods, while their 
lower slopes, turned to the southern 
sun, are covered with vineyards, and 
form a continuation of the Saxon 
wine district, which begins at Meissen, 
and extends up to Pillnitz. These 
sunny slopes are dotted over with neat 
white villas, in the midst of pleasure- 
grounds— the retreats of opulent in¬ 
dustry. Here the venerable and respected 
Moritz lictsch, the well-known illustrator 













48? 


Saxony . Boute 87. —Dresden, outskirts. 


of Goethe, Schiller, and Shakespeare, 
had a pretty villa. Here also are several 
places of public resort, somewhat be¬ 
tween a tea-garden, cafe, and tavern, 
holding out the attraction, irresistible 
to Germans, of “ a good beer,” such 
as are always to be found in the 
neighbourhood of a German large town. 

(5 40.) 

(a.) Such are the Baths of Link (Linkes 
Bad), situated about a mile from 
the bridge in the Schiller Str. in the 
new town, on the borders of the Elbe, 
with a garden abounding in alcoves; 
a Theatre , where dramatic performances 
take place in summer; and baths. 
In summer afternoons, especially on 
Sundays, many hundred persons assem¬ 
ble here to take their ice, beer, or 
coffee—to dance, or listen to the music 
of an excellent band (Thursday). 

The- Wolfshiigel, an eminence rising 
above the road, commands one of the 
best views of Dresden. 

5 m. walk from the Linkesche Bad is 
the large Waldschlosschen brewery, 
carried on by a company: the beer 
brewed here is celebrated. The build¬ 
ing, a striking object from the end of 
the Briihl terrace, contains rooms for 
visitors, and there is a terrace much 
frequented owing to the fine view from 
it. 

About a mile further, on the top of 
the hill beneath which the Elbe flows, 
on the site of Findlater’s House, so 
called from a Scotch nobleman who 
resided here, Prince Albert of Prussia 
has built a splendid residence, Al- 
brechtsburg. Paths lead from the rear 
to the 11 r olfsberg, a hill commanding 
one of the best views of Dresden. 
Another modern villa, belonging to 
Mr. Souchay, is distinguished by its 
3 towers. 

About 3 m. from the Baths of Link, and 
1^ m. from the point where the post-road 
to Bautzen turns off on the 1. above 
Loschwitz , a small red-tiled, dilapi¬ 
dated country-house is seen, in the 
midst of a vineyard close to the road. 
This was for some time the retreat of 
Schiller, who wrote the greater part of 
his ‘Don Carlos’ in it. The build¬ 


ing was lent to him by his friend the 
elder Korner (father of the poet, who 
resided in the house below). The view 
from it is very pleasing. 

The village immediately opposite 
Loschwitz, called Blasewitz , has been 
rendered famous by Schiller, who has 
named the •female suttler in the camp 
of Wallenstein, Gustel of Blasewitz — 
the said Gustel being a real person 
who, in the poet’s time, used to sell 
cakes at the inn close to the ferry. 

Following the carriage-road, you 
pass the Konigs Weinberg , the elegant 
residence of the late King of Saxony 
(now of his widow), remarkable for 
the plantations of foreign trees and 
plants laid out by its founder. Before 
reaching Pillnitz, near the village of 
Hosterwitz, is the house in which 
C. M. von Weber composed his operas 
of ‘ Der Freischiitz ’ and ‘ Oberon.’ 
It is the first house on the rt., close 
to the road, after you pass an avenue 
of poplars running at rt. angles to the 
road. It is surrounded by walled 
vineyards. 

(b.) 6 m. N. of Dresden is Moritzbarg; 
a deserted chateau of the old Electors, 
with fish-ponds, containing many relics 
of old times and customs. 

(c.) The excursion by road or Bail 
to the romantic Plauensche Grund and 
the village of Tharand is described in 
Bte. 90. 

(d.) The most interesting of all the 
excursions round Dresden is that to the 
Saxon Switzerland. (Btes. 88, 89.) A 
traveller pressed for time, and unable 
to make the whole tour, should at least 
devote a day to -visit the Bastei , Otto- 
walder Grand, and Konigstcin, which 
might easily be accomplished by starting 
by the railroad in the morning for. 
Potzscha Stat., so as to breakfast in 
the inn at the Bastei, proceeding thence 
along the rt. bank of the Elbe to 
Schandau, crossing the Elbe by ferry 
at Schandau, dining at Konigstein, 
and returning by the evening train to 
Dresden. 

By aid of steamer and railway a good 
deal of the Saxon Switzerland may be 
visited in afternoon excursions from 
Dresden, leaving the quiet morning 
hours to be devoted to the collection. 







488 Route 88 . —saxon Switzerland. 


ROUTE 88. 

TIIE SAXON SWITZERLAND AND THE 
ELBE. 

(A.) — DRESDEN TO PILLNITZ, THE 

BASTET, SCHANDAU, KUHSTALL, PRE- 

BISCHTIIOR, AND HIRNISKRETSCHEN. 

—RAILWAY. 

The easiest and most profitable way 
of visiting Saxon Switzerland, parti¬ 
cularly for those who cannot devote 
much time to it, is to set out from 
Dresden at 7 or 8 o’cl. morn, by rail, 
with a ticket for the stat. Potzscha ; 
there to leave the train, cross the 
river Elbe to Welilen, ascend to the 
Bastei rock, and go on as far as the 
little town of Schandau, and dine 
there. In the afternoon, or next day, 
take a carriage and drive to the Wasser- 
fall, where hire ponies for Kuhstall 
and Winterberg; thence descend to the 
Elbe by the Prebischthor to Hirnis- 
kretschen, where you meet the steamer 
for Dresden, and reach that city at 
8 in the evening. Ascertain at Schan- 
dau the hour at which the steamer 
leaves Hirniskretschen. 

General Information. — The district 
called the “ Saxon Switzerland” begins 
about 8 m. above Dresden, and extends 
beyond the Bohemian frontier. The 
name of “Switzerland” is not alto¬ 
gether appropriate, as the scenery of 
the two countries is very different, and 
it may perhaps lead to exaggerated ex¬ 
pectations, and comparisons disadvan¬ 
tageous to the Switzerland of Saxony. 
It has none of the glaciers, or snows, 
serrated ridges, and granite peaks of 
the real Switzerland, and its mountains 
are of very inferior height; but it has 


Sect. VII. 

scenery so peculiar, and so unlike what 
is found elsewhere, that though it falls 
short, in sublimity, to that country, the 
Saxon Switzerland may be visited with 
surprise and gratification even by those 
who are acquainted with the other. 
The river Elbe flows through the centre 
of it, and its hanks are more interesting 
in this part of its course than in any 
other between its source and the sea. 

“About 4 m. beyond Pillnitz the 
valley of the Elbe closes; the moun¬ 
tains become more lofty and bare; the 
majestic river, quitting at length the 
rugged and mountainous course which 
has hemmed him in from his hirth in 
the Mountains of the Giant, and des¬ 
tined to visit, throughout the rest of 
his career, only scenes of industry and 
fertility, conies forth rejoicing from the 
gorges which you are about to enter. 
From this point up to the frontiers of 
Bohemia, the rocks in the neighbour¬ 
hood of the river, principally on the rt. 
bank, consisting of a coarse-grained 
sandstone, are cut in all directions into 
gorges, as if the chisel had been used 
to hew passages through them. They 
should rather be called lanes, so narrow 
are they, so deeply sunk, and so 
smoothly perpendicular do the gigantic 
walls of rock rise on both sides. The 
walls themselves are cut vertically into 
separate masses, by narrow openings 
reaching from the summit to the very 
bottom, as if a cement, which once 
united them, had been washed away. 
These perpendicular masses, again, arc 
divided and grooved into layers, or 
apparent layers, like blocks regularly 
laid upon each other to form the 
wall. They generally terminate in 
some singular form. Some have a huge 
rounded mass reclining on their sum¬ 
mit, which appears scarcely broad 
enough to poise it; others have a more 
regular mass laid upon them, like the 
astragal of a Doric pillar; others assume 
the form of inverted pyramids, increasing 
in breadth as they shoot higher into the 
air. Occasionally they present a still 
more singular appearance; for, after 
tapering in a conical form to a certain 
elevation, they begin to dilate again as 
they rise higher, as if an inverted 
truncated cone were placed. on a right 





ROUTE 88.—DRESDEN TO RiLLNITE. 


489 


Saxony. 

truncated cone, resembling exactly, but 
on an infinitely greater scale, what 
often occurs in caverns, where the 
descending stalactite rests on an ascend¬ 
ing stalagmite.” — Bussell’s Germany. 

The rock of this district, which ex¬ 
hibits these phenomena, is the Qua- 
dersandstein of German geologists, agree¬ 
ing with the green-sand foi'mation of 
England. “ It crumbles down into a 
soil soft to the feet, and of sufficient 
consistency not to be deep or heavy, 
affording the easiest and least fatiguing 
walking to the pedestrian. It is dif¬ 
ficult to tire in such a country, where 
there is also abundance of shades and 
delicious water in every valley. 

Many of the gorges, or narrow val¬ 
leys, above described, are inaccessible 
in carriages, so tbat the entire tour of 
the Saxon Switzerland can only be made 
on foot. Nevertheless, most of the 
finest scenes lie within the distance of 
a short walk from a railway stat., from 
the Elbe steamers, or from some car¬ 
riage-road ; and notice is taken in the 
following route of those spots where 
travellers may leave their carriage, and 
of others to which it may be sent round 
to meet them. 

MEANS OF CONVEYANCE. 

Railway: Dresden to Prague. — Ter¬ 
minus in the Altstadt, Dresden, S. bank 
of the Elbe. Trains 5 times a-day, in 
7 hours. This line, as far as Aussig, in 
Bohemia, traverses the whole length of 
the Saxon Switzerland, being carried 
along the 1. bank of the Elbe. From 
its stations, by means of ferries across 
the Elbe, all the most interesting spots 
are easily accessible. Thus Potzscha 
is the Stat. for the Bastei; Konigstein 
for that fortress; Krippen for Schandau 
and Kuhstall; Nicdergrund for Hcnm- 
skretschen and Prebisch Thor ; Boden- 
bach for Tetschen. 

Steamers also from Dresden ascend 
the Elbe to Leitmeritz in Bohemia, tra¬ 
versing the same beautiful district. In 
summer they start 2 or 3 times a-day, 
touching at Pillnitz, Pima, Konigstein, 
Schandau; twice a-day at Tetschen, 
and once at Leitmeritz. 


The scenery of the banks of the Elbe 
is far better seen from the deck of the 
steamer than from the railway train ; 
and the excursion may be pleasantly 
varied by taking the railway up the 
Elbe valley, and descending in the 
steamboat. 

Good Inns , with comfortable sleep¬ 
ing accommodation, may be found at 
the Bastei, Schandau, Gross Winter- 
berg. 

Guides abound at the principal inns 
of the district, who will conduct 
strangers to the most interesting spots, 
by the shortest ways. The paths are 
not diificult to find, however, by any 
one who can speak German, so as to 
ask his way. A thaler a day is the 
usual trinkgeld. 

Donkeys , ponies , and chalses-a-porteiu s 
may be hired at all the principal stations 
at moderate charges fixed by tariff. 

Boats, called Gondeln , may be hired in 
the towns and villages along the banks. 

PLAN OF A TOUR OF THE SAXON 
SWITZERLAND. 

2 days, or at the outside 3, sleeping 
at Schandau and Gr. Winterberg, are 
amply sufficient to see all that is best 
worth notice by a person who does not 
object to rise early, and is moderately 
strong a-foot. 

Start from Dresden by an early train 
of the Prague Bailway with ticket 
for 

Potzscha Stat. Cross the Elbe in 
ferry to 

lhr. Wehlen. Walk up Ottowalder 
Grand to Teufels Kiiche, Das Thor, &c. 
Return to T. Kiiche. {Inn: Sachish 
Schwutz). Take the 1. hand path to 

2 The Bastei to breakfast. Descend 
the path to Rathen. Take a char or a 
carriage to 

2 Schandau. 

~ in char to Haidemuhle. On foot to 

rj Kuhstall. 

1 ^ Grosser Winterberg. 

1 Prebisch Thor. 

Ilerraskretschen. (To Tetschen.) 

^, (Descend the Elbe in boat to 
* (Krippen Stat. (or in steamer). 

3 Konigstein. Walk from stat. up to 
Fortress, see it, return, and dine. 

Y 3 









490 


Sect. Vll. 


ItOUTE 88.—PILLNITZ. THE ELBE. 


Dresden by rail or steamer. 

N.B. Travellers passing through the 
Saxon Switzerland, on their way to 
Prague or Teplitz, should visit Ivonig- 
stcin (a chief object in the tour) from 
Schandau. 

The Railway to Prague starts from 
the Altstadt in Dresden, on the 1. bank 
of the Elbe, and, sweeping past the S. 
side of the town, skirts (1.) the great 
Garden; (rt.) passes Moreau’s monu¬ 
ment; and thence follows the wind¬ 
ings of the Elbe, along the 1. bank of 
that river. 

1. li| Pirna Stat.— Inns: Weisses 
Boss; Schwarzer Adler, outside the 
walls. This small and unimportant town 
of 5500 Inhab. lies on the high road 
from Dresden to Teplitz, and on the 
bank of the Elbe. Carnages and boats 
arc kept for hire here. 

1. A little above Pirna stands the 
Castle of Sonnenstein , on an elevated 
rock, at the back of which the high 
road passes, before it descends into the 
town. It was originally a fortress and 
a state prison. Patkul, afterwards so 
cruelly murdered by Charles XII., was 
confined in it. It was obstinately de¬ 
fended by the French in 1813. It is 
now a Lunatic Asylum. 

[rt, Pillnitz (Inn: Goldener Lowe) 
in summer is the residence of the 
Court of Saxony from May to Sep¬ 
tember. The Palace, built 1818, in the 
place of a previous one destroyed by 
fire, is not very imposing externally, 
but it contains some very good modern 
frescoes by the Saxon artist Vogel: 
those in the Great Saloon represent the 
Arts — Painting, Sculpture, Architec¬ 
ture, and Music. The chapel is adorned 
with several subjects by the same 
artist, exhibiting more of the refined 
conception and bold execution of the 
old masters than is usually found in 
modem works of this class. Pillnitz 
was the place of me'eting of a Con¬ 
gress of Sovereigns, in 1791, includ¬ 
ing the Empr. Leopold II., Frederick 
William II. of Prussia, the Due 
d’Artois (afterwards Charles X.), Ca- 
lonne, and many French exiles, who 
projected a crusade against revolution¬ 


ary France as the means of reinstating 
the Bourbons on its throne. There are 
gardens and hot-houses attached to the 
palace, and agreeable walks along the 
heights above pleasure-grounds. The 
Porsberg , an hour’s walk to the N.E., 
commands fine prospects. 

The road to Lohmen lies by the side of 
one of those glens or gorges for which 
this country is remarkable, called 
Liebethaler Grund. Though pretty, it 
is inferior in beauty to many others; so 
that persons pressed for time may re¬ 
serve themselves for the Ottowalder 
Grund on the other side of Lohmen. 
It takes about 2 hrs. to walk through 
the Liebethaler Grund , and carriages 
may be sent round to Lohmen. A clear 
stream runs, or rather rolls, down 
the glen, leaving scarcely room to walk 
by the side. The path passes large 
quarries, from which millstones are 
obtained, and leads up the glen as far 
as the Lochmuhle, a mill sunk deep in 
the gorge, and wedged in between per¬ 
pendicular cliffs. The path lies through 
the miller’s house, where refreshments 
may be obtained; and then, ascending 
out of the gorge by a flight of some 180 
steps, proceeds along the top of the 
cliffs, by Dauba, to 

Lohmen, a small village with a poor 
country inn, and an old castle on the 
brink of a precipice, from which a 
peasant is said to have fallen while 
asleep into the depth below, and to have 
recovered from his injuries. 

After traversing the greater part of 
the long village of Lohmen, a footpath 
turns off suddenly to the rt. to Otto- 
walde, or Uttcwaldc, distant 2 m. 
The Ottowalder Grund , another ravine, 
also to be traversed only on foot, and 
which no one should omit to explore, 
is remarkable for the height of its sides 
and the narrow space separating its 
walls asunder, so that the sun scarce 
penetrates into its depths. It possesses 
some remarkable objects: 1st. Das Thor, 
“the gate;” where3large cubic-shaped 
masses of rock, having fallen from above, 
are jammed in between them so as to 
form a natural roof, under which, as 
under an arch, the traveller must pass. 
Then comes the “ Stone House,” being 
various large masses of rock exactly 







491 


Saxony. Route 88.—Saxon Switzerland, the basted 


resembling the roof of a house» ordly. 
Teufels Kiiche, or “ Devil’s Kitchen,” 
a large natural excavation, which puts 
one in mind of the Abbot’s Kitchen 
at Glastonbury. Shortly after this the 
ravine divides into 2 ways: the rt. leads 
to Wehlen; the 1. hand path, emerging 
from the depths of the Ottowalder 
Grand, crosses the earriage-road from 
Dresden and Lohmen, and brings you 
at the end of ^ hr’s. walk to the 
verge of the gigantic precipice called 
The Bastei, or Bastion; close to which 
there is a tolerable Inn, much thronged, 
however, in summer. 

The Bastei, from which is obtained 
one of the finest views in the dis¬ 
trict, “is the name given to one of the 
largest masses of rock which rise close 
by the river on the rt. bank. One 
narrow block, on the very summit, 
projects into the air. Perched on this, 
not on, but beyond , the brink of this 
precipice, you command a prospect 
which, in its kind, is unique in Europe. 
You hover on the pinnacle, at an eleva¬ 
tion of more than 600 ft. above the 
Elbe, which sweeps round the bottom 
of the precipice. Behind, and up along 
the winding river on the same bank, 
rise similar precipitous cliffs, cut and 
intersected like those already described. 
From the farther bank, the plain gra¬ 
dually elevates itself into an irregular 
amphitheatre, terminated by a lofty 
but rounded range of mountains. The 
striking feature is, that in the bosom 
of this amphitheatre, a plain of the 
most varied beauty, huge columnar 
hills start up at once from the ground, 
at a great distance from each other, 
overlooking, in lonely and solemn 
grandeur, each its own portion of the 
domain. They are monuments which 
the Elbe has left standing to comme¬ 
morate its triumph over their less hardy 
kindred. The most remarkable among 
them are the Lilienstein and Konigstein , 
which tower, nearly in the centre of 
the picture, to a height of about 900 ft. 
above the level of the Elbe. They rise 
perpendicularly from a sloping base, 
formed of ddbris, and now covered with 
natural wood. The approach to the 
summit is so difficult, that an Elector 
of Saxony and King of Poland thought I 


the exploit which he performed in 
scrambling up to the top of the Lilien¬ 
stein deserving of being commemorated 
by an inscription. The access to the 
Konigstein is artificial, for it has long 
been a fortress; and, from the strength 
of the situation, is still a virgin one. 
Besides these, the giants of the terri¬ 
tory, the plain is studded with many 
other columnar eminences of the same 
general character, though on a smaller 
scale; and they all bear, from time im¬ 
memorial, their particular legends—for 
the mountains of Saxony and Bohemia 
are the native country of tale-telling 
tradition, the cradle of Gnomes and 
Kobolds. In the deep rents and gloomy 
recesses of the Lilienstein , hosts of 
spirits still watch over concealed trea¬ 
sures. A holy nun, miraculously trans¬ 
ported from the irregularities of her 
convent to the summit of the Non- 
nenstein, that she might spend her 
days in prayer and purity in its ca¬ 
verns, is commemorated in the name 
of the rock; and the Jungfernsprung, 
or Leap of the Virgin, perpetuates the 
memory of the Saxon maid, who, when 
pursued by a brutal lustling, threw 
herself from the brink of its hideous 
precipice, to die unpolluted.”— Bussell's 
Germany. 

These stiff bare rocks, rising from the 
earth, manifest, though now disjoined, 
that they once formed one body, all the 
softer parts of which have mouldered 
away, and left only the naked, inde¬ 
structible framework. 

The scene beheld from the Bastei 
will most assuredly detain the traveller 
for hours. The view over the plain, 
however, is not the only wonder of this 
remarkable spot. Behind, and at one 
side of the Bastei, numerous gigantic 
pinnacles of rock, separated from the 
main body by rents and chasms of tre¬ 
mendous depth, shoot upwards to a 
great height, in cveiy variety of fan¬ 
tastic forms. So slight and slender 
are these natural pillars and obelisks, 
that it is difficult to understand how 
they maintain themselves upright at 
a height of several hundred feet. 
Numerous tufts of large trees have 
struck root in the crannies of these 
rocks, where there appears not an 






49^ route: 88. —hochstein. hohnstein. lilienstein. Sect. Vli. 


inch of earth to nourish them. These 
slender pinnacles have been rendered 
accessible from the main land by slight 
bridges of wood and stone spanning 
the chasms. A band of robber knights 
in former times set up a nest-like castle 
upon some of the loftiest and apparently 
most inaccessible of them; it was called 
Burg Neurathen , and scanty remains of 
its masonry are still visible. The 
entrance on one side was through a 
natural arch and over a drawbridge; 
the approach on the other lay through 
a cleft 3 ft. wide, and was closed by a 
portcullis formed of a slab of stone, 
which ran in grooves still visible in the 
rocky walls. The narrow planks with 
which the robbers bridged the chasms 
around them were easily removed when 
danger threatened, and then’ stronghold 
was then impregnable. From this lofty 
eyrie they watched the approach of 
vessels on the Elbe, and dashed down 
to pillage or make captive, being long 
enabled by their position to bid defiance 
to legal authority. This foi’tress was 
at length destroyed in 1468; but in 
1639, during the horrors of the Thirty 
Years’ War, many poor refugees, driven 
out of their houses in the plain, sought 
shelter from tbe enemy among these 
crags. 

There is a carriage-road from the 
Bastei to Schandau , leaving Hohnstein, 
on the opposite side of the ravine, on 
the 1., and winding down a long and 
gradual descent towards the Elbe, 
among rocks and thickets, commanding 
magnificent views, by turns into the 
ravine on the 1., and into the valley of 
the Elbe, including the noble rock of 
Lilienstein, on the rt. It is one of the 
finest landscapes in the Saxon Switzer¬ 
land. 

From the Bastei a steep path also 
descends by a stone bridge of 7 arches, 
resting on the rocky obelisks or pin¬ 
nacles by way of piers, through the 
narrow cleft above mentioned, to the 
margin of the Elbe and the village 
of Rathen, at the foot of the Bastei, 
\ hour. 

rt. At Rathen a ferry takes you over 
the Elbe to Potscha Stat., and the tra¬ 
veller bound for Teplitz or Prague, and 
not intending to descend the Elbe again, 


may cross here and follow the 1. bank 
as far as Konigstein, after which, re¬ 
crossing the river higher up, opposite 
to Schandau, he may either retrace 
his steps down the rt. bank as far as 
the Tiefer Grund, and proceed through 
it to Hohnstein and the Brand, or go 
at once to Schandau. 

[F rom the foot of the Bastei at Rathen 
a path threads the bottom of other 
ravines as far as Ilochstein. The 
waterfall of the Amsel Grund, though 
much praised by the natives, is but a 
sorry affair, especially after the cataracts 
of Switzerland; indeed, there is not 
one waterfall in the whole of this dis¬ 
trict worth the trouble of stepping 2 
yards aside to see it. 

*Hochstein is a projecting promontory 
of rock, 400 ft. high, commanding a very 
striking view, approachable by a frail 
bridge thrown over a deep dark gulf, 
or yawning abyss, called Wolfsschlucht. 
It is made accessible by ladders and by 
steps cut in the sides; and, from traces 
of walls and iron hooks fastened in the 
rock, it is probable that there was once 
a fort here, serving as a watch-tower 
or outwork to the castle of Hohnstein 
on the opposite side of the valley. 
Hohnstein (Inn, Hirsch) is a 'village of 
900 Inhab., with a Castle , which is sur¬ 
rounded on all sides by precipices. The 
fearful dungeons were once used as 
state prisons. 

A carriage-road leads from Hohn¬ 
stein to the Brand , another very good 
point of -view, but inferior to the Bastei. 
The road then passes down the Tiefer 
Grund , a valley so narrow that the sun 
appears rarely to penetrate it, to the 
banks of the Elbe, which it follows for 
about 1^ m., till it reaches Schandau.] 

The course of the Elbe above the 
Bastei is very tortuous, nearly encircling 
the singular tabular hills. 

rt. Lilienstein is the highest of the 
12 isolated table mountains of the 
Saxon Switzerland, sui’passing by 168 
ft. its opposite neighbour Konigstein. 
Its summit, 1254 ft. above the sea, is 
accessible from the village of Ebenheit, 
by narrow paths cut in the rock, and 
by scaling-ladders placed against the 
precipice. These means of access were 





493 


ROUTE 88.—KoNlGSTEIST. SCllANDAtf. 


4 I 

Saxony. 

first prepared in 1708, by order of 
Augustus II. of Saxony, after having 
himself made the ascent; an exploit 
of which he was so proud, that he 
set up an obelisk, which still re¬ 
mains, to commemorate it (p. 491). 
The view from the top extends down 
the Elbe as far as Dresden and Meis¬ 
sen, and upwards to the Bohemian 
mountains. The French laid out 
around the base of Lilicnstein, in 1813, 
a fortified camp, the ramparts of which 
still remain in part; it communicated 
hy 2 bridges of boats with Konig- 
stein. During the Seven Years’ War 
(1760) an army of 17,000 Saxons laid 
down their arms here to Frederick the 
Great, in sight of Augustus, their so¬ 
vereign, who was shut up at the time 
in the fortress. 

1. Kdnigstein Stat. 

4 1. Kdnigstein (Inn: Blauer Stern) 
is a small town of 1300 Inhab. on the 
Elbe. Above it, at a height of 852 ft. 
from the river, 1187 ft. above the sea, 
rises the (until 1866) virgin fortress of 
Kdnigstein. It commands the river and 
railway, so that it prevented the passage 
of the Prussian army into Bohemia. 
That same year, however, it was handed 
by treaty over to Prussia, and is now 
garrisoned by Prussian infantry, jointly 
with Saxon artillery. Viewed from a 
distance it bears a strong resemblance to 
one of the “hill forts” of India, and w T ill 
give an European an exact idea of those 
singular strongholds. It was deemed 
impregnable from its situation, sur¬ 
rounded by perpendicular natural 
escarpments improved by artificial cut¬ 
tings; but more than all from its 
isolated position, so far removed from 
any other height—the Lilicnstein and 
Pfaffenstein, on opposite sides, being 
each 3000 yards distant—that before 
Armstrong's invention it could not 
be commanded by artillery. Napoleon 
endeavoured to batter it from Lilien- 
stein; but, after raising 3 pieces of 
cannon with great difficulty to the 
summit, the halls fell short. The ap¬ 
proach to it is through a steeply sloping 
w r av cut in the living rock, which rises 
on either side like a wall, and partly by 
a sloping wooden bridge, winch, vfficn 
removed in time of war, leaves the 


gateway unapproachable, high up in 
the face of the cliff. The platform on 
winch the fortress is built is several 
acres in extent, and a mile in circuit. 
This space is partly cultivated in fields 
and gardens; it produces a little corn, 
and pasturage for one or two cows, 
so as to suffice in part to support a 
garrison of 1200 men, the w r ar com¬ 
plement, for whom 2 years’ provisions 
are always kept in store. A well , cut 
to the depth of 613 ft. in the solid rock, 
supplies them with water from an inex¬ 
haustible spring; and casemates, also 
excavated, serve as storehouses for pro¬ 
visions. To this fortress Saxony owes 
the preservation of her priceless collec¬ 
tion of works of art, virtu, and antiquity, 
her picture gallery and Green Vault. 
The treasures of the Saxon monarchs 
have frequently been deposited here, to 
be out of harm’s w*ay; and indeed 
Frederick Augustus II. himself took 
refuge here during the Seven Years’ 
War, and the late King lived here 3 
months in 1849. This fortress served 
once as a state prison. Strangers 
are admitted on paying a fee of 1 thaler 
10 S. gr., which admits 8 persons: 
nothing should prevent the traveller 
visiting it. • The view from its walls is 
most beautiful, being panoramic, and 
is one of the most striking in the 
Saxon Switzerland. 

1. Krippen Stat. Here is a ferry over 
the Elbe, leading to 

rt. Schandau. Inns : *Forsthaus, 
best; Deutsches Haus—both on the 
Elbe; Bahr’s Hotel; Badhaus, an inn 
out of the town about £ m. up the 
valley of the Kirnitsch, at a spot where 
a mineral spring supplies some baths, 
much frequented by Dresdeners in 
summer, rather dear. Schandau is a 
town of 1000 Inhab. on the rt. bank 
of the Elbe, here crossed by a ferry at 
the junction of the streamlet called 
Kirnitsch. From its central situation, 
Schandau is convenient head-quarters 
for those who propose to explore at their 
ease the Saxon Switzerland; and Krip¬ 
pen stat., on the Dresden and Prague 
railway, is only about -f m. after cross¬ 
ing the ferry. Horses may be hired 
here. A good walker, from Schandau, 
might visit in one day the Kuhstall , 







494 


ROUTE 88.—KUHSTALL. WINTERBERG. 


Sect. VIL 


Winterberg, Prebischthor, and Ilerrn- 
slcretscben, and return by steamer or 
rail to sleep at tbe Baths. Hire of a 
horse for this ride of 5 hrs., 3 to 4 
thalers. 

Excursions. —a. To the Pfaffenstein and 
Konigstein, crossing the Elbe in ferry 
—a delightful drive of 6 or 7 hours. 
Carriage can approach near to the top 
of the Pfaffenstein, then a short sharp 
climb brings you to the top—grand 
view. 

b. To Kuhstcilland Winterberg ; car¬ 
riage-road, traversed by omnibus. 

[A carriage-road runs up the beau¬ 
tiful valley of the Kirnitsch, to the 
Haidemiihle, about 6 m. from Schan- 
dau. Beyond this the paths must be tra¬ 
versed on foot, or on ponies or chaises 
a porteurs for ladies, which must be 
ordered beforehand. A path turns 
abruptly to the rt., across a brook and 
up a steep wooded hill, and, after a 
mile of ascent, brings you to the 
Kuhstall. 

The Kuhstall (cow-stall) is a natural 
arch or cave in the rock, 30 ft. high 
and 40 wide, 800 ft. above the sea, 
under which one passes to a sort of 
terrace commanding a most striking 
view of the valley far below. During 
the Thirty Years’ War the peasants 
drove their cattle hither for safety, 
whence its name. Many of the per¬ 
secuted Protestants, expelled from 
Bohemia by the Emp. Ferdinand II. 
and the Jesuits, took refuge here with 
their families. This cave forms the 
frame to a singular picture. The 
traveller sees around him rocks heaped 
upon rocks, many crowned with fir- 
trees, reminding an Englishman of the 
scenery near Tunbridge Wells, only on 
a much grander scale. A narrow fissure 
in the sandstone, which can just be 
ascended by a person of moderate size, 
leads to a platform on the top of the 
Kuhstall. The Wochcnbett is a cavern 
so named, because the “women in the 
straw” were placed there for greater 
security when this spot was an asylum 
for the persecuted. 

An abrupt descent through a chasm, 
literally a crack in the rock, on the 1. of 
the Kuhstall, leads into the valley, 


where a sand-strown and easily dis¬ 
cernible path traverses fields and forests 
as far as the foot of the hills called 
Lesser and Great Winterberg. The 
Lesser Winterberg is the steeper of the 
two, and more tiresome to surmoimt. 
The Great Winterberg, 1768 ft. above 
the level of the sea, and 1628 above the 
Elbe (3 m. from Kuhstall), is a knob 
of trap piercing through the sandstone, 
and one of the highest mountains in the 
district; in ascending it, the guide 
points out a projecting rock, to the very 
verge of which one of the Electors of 
Saxony was driven by an infuriated 
stag which he had wounded in the 
chase. Just as the animal was bending 
down its antlers to toss him over the 
precipice, the prince succeeded in shoot¬ 
ing it through the heart. On the sum¬ 
mit there is a good inn, where travellers 
may obtain decent fare and beds, if 
they make up their mind to pass a night 
here for the sake of seeing the sun rise 
over the Bohemian mountains. The 
view is very striking, extending to the 
mountains of Silesia; the various 
isolated hills nearer at hand rise up like 
pillars out of the valley of the Elbe, 
whose winding course is commanded for 
a long distance. From the Winterberg 
the path plunges down amidst the seared 
remains of the forest, and soon crosses 
the Bohemian frontier. An hour’s walk 
brings you tothe* Prebisch Thor, another 
natural arch, hollowed out of the rock, 
but more remarkable, and of much more 
colossal dimensions, than the Kuhstall. 
It is 66 ft. high, 98 broad, 1402 ft. 
above the sea. The Thor itself is very 
grand ; but the view from the platform 
on the top is magnificent, finer even 
than that from the Bastci. The scenery 
near at hand is exceedingly wild, 
and the distant outline of the Erzge¬ 
birge borders the horizon. A steep 
path descends from this, and follows 
the course of the Biel, a small brook, 
and afterwards of the Kamnitz, a larger 
stream, turning several saw-mills, until 
it enters the Elbe.] 

Niedergrund Stat. 

See 2 of the singular columnar hills 
peculiar to the district, the Zirkelstein 
and Kahlstein, 





ROUTE 90. —DRESDEN TO HOF. 


495 


Saxony. 

rt. Ilermskretschen, a small village on 
the estate of the Bohemian prince Clary, 
having an Inn on the Elbe, 2 h. easy 
walk from the Winterberg. Large 
timber rafts are constructed here, and 
are floated down the Elbe when the 
water is high. Here is a ferry, by which 
the railway may be reached by the tra¬ 
veller should he fail to catch the steamer 
to take him to Dresden or Prague. 
Row-boats (gondeln). 

1. Several tunnels are driven through 
the rock near 

Bodenbach Stat. ( Inns: Post, best; 
Badhaus). Here the Austrian frontier 
is crossed, and here the Custom¬ 
house and search of baggage. Di¬ 
rectly opposite, on the rt. bank of the 
Elbe, is the small town of Tetschen (no 
good Inn ) and the handsome chateau 
of Count Thun. The scenery of the 
Elbe hereabouts is very interesting. 
(See Bte. 263 in Handbook for South 
Germany.) A suspension-bridge con¬ 
nects the two banks. 

rt. The Schrammstein, a bold per¬ 
pendicular promontory of sandstone, 
overtops the neighbouring hills. Near 
the. river it has a columnar fracture, 
but inland it assumes the form of a 
gigantic Cyclopean wall. 


ROUTE 90. 

DRESDEN TO HOF IN BAVARIA, BY TIIE 
VALLEY OF PLAUEN, FREIBERG, AND 
CHEMNITZ. RAIL. 

29 Germ. m. = 140 Eng. m. 

4 trains daily in 6 hrs. 

On leaving Dresden the railroad 
crosses the small river Weisseritz, and 
follows its course for about 2 m. to 
Plauen Stat ., a village of a few houses 
and water-mills, at the entrance of 
the very picturesque glen called the 
Plauensche Grund , with precipitous 
rocky sides or slopes, overgrown with 
underwood. It has been compared 
to the scenery of Hackfall, in York¬ 
shire. In a coal-mine here 276 miners 
were destroyed by an explosion of fire¬ 
damp, 1869. The Railroad passes 
through it by the side of the Weisseritz, 
a stream very useful in turning the 
wheels of many mills, which give a 
lively air to its banks. The valley 
opens out into a broad green meadow, 
near the industrious village of 

Potschappel Stat., close to which there 
are coal-mines, iron-forges, glass-works, 
&c. Agates are found in the rocks 
around, and in the beds of the streams; 
coke is made here to supply the smelt¬ 
ing furnaces at Freiberg. 

21 Tharand Stat. (Inns: Delltsches 
Haus; Hirsch), a watering-place and 
village with 1000 Inhab.: its mineral 
baths are much frequented in summei* 
by the inhabitants of Dresden. It is 
romantically situated on a spot where 
3 valleys meet, 2 of them sending forth 
streams which unite and flow through 
the Plauensche Grund into the Elbe. 
It takes but 10 min. to ascend from 
the inn to the ruins of the Old Castle , 
perched on a promontory of rock, from 
which you look down into the deep and 



496 


Sect. VII. 


ROUTE 90. —FREIBERG. CATHEDRAL. 


picturesque valley on either side. The 
ruin is the remains of a hunting-scat 
of the ancestors of the present King of 
Saxony. It is worth while to take a 
guide to explore some of the other 
pretty walks in this neighbourhood, 
such as the Forstgarten , from which 
there is a fine view, and the beech 
avenue called the Hcilige Hallen. 

The Forstgarten is a nursery forest, 
containing 1000 species of trees and 
shrubs attached to the Forst-Academie 
subsisting here, in which a certain 
number of students are instructed in the 
forester’s art, and in everything relating 
to planting trees and rearing timber. 

The rly. is carried up a coninuous 
ascent of 1 in 40 for 10 m. until it 
reaches the upland. 

On the banks of the river Mulde, 
which the railroad crosses on approach¬ 
ing Freiberg, on a viaduct 78 ft. high, 
are several silver-mines; the chief is 
that called Ilimmelfahrt (Ascension), 
producing 8000 lbs. of pui’e silver, worth 
200,000 dollars, per annum. The tra¬ 
veller’s attention is arrested by the 
ceaseless tinkling of a bell. This is 
attached to the works of the mines, and 
its use is to give notice to the miners 
that all is right in the works below. 
If a rope break, or any other accident 
befall the machinery, the bell ceases to 
ring, and attention is thus instantly 
called to it. 

24 Freiberg Stat.— Inns: H. de Saxe; 
Schwarzes Boss (Black Horse) — an 
ancient and decayed imperial city, still 
surrounded by its old walls and ditch. 
It contained 40,000 Inhab. in the days 
of its prosperity; it has now only 
20,566, about 8000 being employed in 
the mines. It is the capital of the 
mining district of Saxony, and its rise 
and fall have kept pace with the pro¬ 
ductiveness of its silver-mines, which 
were discovered and worked as far 
back as the 12th cent. By the aid of 
the appliances of science and by the 
energy of those employed, the veins 
of silver-bearing lead have been fol¬ 
lowed deeper and deeper, and still yield 
as much as { million sterling in a year. 
More than 800 veins of silver have 
been traced in the district, some of 


them running from 20 to 28 miles> 
and measuring to 4 5 in breadth, 
chiefly in the gneiss rock. (See Dr. 
Percy’s * Metallurgy .’ A project for 
clearing the lower veins of water, by 
piercing a tunnel through the moun¬ 
tains to the Elbe at Meissen, is in 
progress, and is certainly one of the 
most stupendous undertakings of the 
kind in Europe, its length being about 
24 m. It has been calculated by 
Breithaupt, that the Freiberg mines 
have produced, in the 640 years during 
which they have been worked, down 
to 1825, 82,000 cwt. of silver, or the 
worth of 240 millions of dollars. 

Freiberg was long the residence of 
the Saxon princes, who bestowed on it 
many immunities and privileges, and 
several of whom are interred in the 
*Dom Kirche ( Cathedral' ), a handsome 
Gothic building, dating from 1484. In 
the choir behind the altar is the tomb 
of Maurice of Saxony, a lofty sarco¬ 
phagus, richly adorned with sculpture 
and marble in the Italian style of the 
16th cent., surmounted by his kneeling 
effigy, by one Floras, an artist of Ant¬ 
werp. Above it, in a niche, is placed 
the armour worn by him at the battle 
of Sievershausen, where he was killed, 
after gaining the victory, by a shot from 
behind; the hole made by the bullet 
(1553) is still visible. The standards 
taken in the battle were hung over his 
grave; they have dropped to pieces 
with age, and the wormeaten staves 
will not long outlast them. In the 
Lady Chapel adjoining are bmied 
Henry the Pious and his successors 
down to Christian I., by whom it was 
built, 1593. It is enriched with Saxon 
marble and serpentine, and contains 
some fine bronze gilt statues by P. 
Boselli; the pavement is inlaid with 
29 very fine brasses , not unlike those of 
England. The cloisters are converted 
into a sort of Museum of Antiquities. 

Other curiosities of this church are 
two pulpits of Gothic workmanship, 
curiously carved in stone ; one, in the 
form of the cup of a flower, is sup¬ 
ported by figures of the master mason 
and his apprentice who executed it; 
and a fine organ by Silbermann. Most 
deserving of notice, however, is the 



Saxony . route 90 . —Freiberg, mines and miners. 497 


0olden Gate , a richly ornamented, 
deeply recessed, round-arched portal, 
in the Romanesque style, date 1175-89, 
which belonged to the Frauen- 
kirche, destroyed by fire in 1484; 
the sculpture shows very good feeling 
for art: it is well worth notice. Beside 
it is the tomb of the celebrated geolo¬ 
gist Werner, who died here in 1817. 
Once a quarter a sermon is preached in 
this church to the miners, who all 
attend in a body. 


The Bathhaus , near the church, is 
a good specimen of N. German Gothic 
(built 1410). The old houses are en¬ 
tered by an ornamental arch with a 
niche and seat on either side, a fashion 
pi'ovalent in Saxony and Silesia. 


In the ' market-place , opposite the 
Rath-house, a flat round stone in the 
pavement marks the spot where Kunz 
of Kaufimgen, the robber-knight, who 
stole the two young Saxon princes, 
Ernest and Albert, from their father’s 
palace, was beheaded, 1455. 

The School of Mines (Berg- Academic) 
is the most renowned in Germany, and 
students repair hither for instruction 
in the art of mining from all quarters 
of the globe. Humboldt, Werner, 
Jameson of Edinburgh, Mohs, and 
many other eminent mineralogists and 
geologists, were pupils in this institu¬ 
tion. Instructions are given by pro¬ 
fessors both in the practice and theory 
of the art; in surveying, mining, and 
the preparation of ores, as well as in 
geology, mineralogy, &c. 




The Museum of the School of Mines 
is very rich in remarkable specimens of 
all the mineral productions of Saxony, 
and includes the splendid and useful 
collection of Werner himself. It is 
not deficient in the geological depart¬ 
ment and in fossils. The Collection of 
Models of the Mines , and the Machinery 
used in them, will give an uninitiated 
person a clear idea of the nature of a 
miner’s operations, or at least will pre¬ 
pare one who purposes visiting them 
for understanding the processes when 
on the spot. There is an office for the 


sale of minerals attached to this esta¬ 
blishment. 

There are said to be about 130 
Mines of silver, copper, lead, and co¬ 
balt, round Freiberg: the prevailing 
rock in which they are situated is a 
primary gneiss. To see a mine tho¬ 
roughly will occupy about 3 h. A 
permission must first be obtained from 
the Bergmeister, in Freiberg. Stran¬ 
gers are provided with a miner’s dress 
at the entrance of the mine. Most of 
the mines are distant a mile or two 
from the town, and proper guides are 
appointed to conduct persons thither. 
The mine most conveniently visited, 
perhaps, is that called the Kurfurst 
(Elector), because it is large and dry; 
it lies near Gross-Schirma. The Alte 
Mord Grube (Old Murder Mine) has 
very remarkable hydraulic pumps for 
extracting the water. The principal ores 
of silver are, argentiferous sulphuret of 
lead, native silver, and red silver. 

The Amalgamir - Work at Halsbruck, 
about 3 m. out of the town, where 
the pure silver is obtained from the 
less productive ores by amalgamation 
with quicksilver, is well worth seeing. 
The process is carried on here upon 
the most ’ scientific principles. At 
Halsbruck are also situated many 
smelting-furnaces. 

The Miners of the Saxon Erzgebirge 
are a somewhat primitive class. Their 
form of salutation is by the words 
“Gluck auf.” They are enrolled in a 
sort of semi-military corps, of which 
the common workmen are the privates, 
and the superintendents and managers 
the officers. They are called out se¬ 
veral times a year for inspection or 
parade, and in addition assemble in a 
body at certain stated times to attend 
miners’ prayers in the church, at the 
funeral of a superior officer, during the 
visit of a royal personage, and on days 
of rejoicing for the discovery of a rich 
vein. On these occasions they appear 
in uniform, their leather aprons fastened 
on behind, leather pockets in the place 
of cartouche-boxes, and a large knife 
stuck in the girdle. The common 
miners march with their pickaxes 





498 


ROUTE 50. —OUEJINITZ : MANUFACTURES. Sect. VII. 


shouldered, the carpenters with their 
axes, and the smiths with their ham* 
mers borne in the same fashion. These 
processions have a martial appearance, 
are headed by a band playing a miners’ 
march, and accompanied by flying co¬ 
lours. The officers have similar uni¬ 
forms, distinguished according to their 
rank. All, up to the chief, or Berg- 
Hauptman, whether in working cos¬ 
tume or in full dress, wear the singular 
/ii/icfcr-apron, which, from its position, 
hears a very significant name. Even 
the sovereign, were he to appear on the 
spot, as head miner of Saxony, could 
not dispense with this appendage. To 
he deprived of it is the greatest disgrace 
to which the miner can he subjected ; 
he thereby loses his privilege, and the 
dishonour is equal to that of knocking 
off the spurs from a knight’s heels. 

The road from Freiberg to Carlsbad 
by Joachimsthal is described in Hand¬ 
book for South Germany , B-te. 259. 

The Ely. to Chemnitz, 4 m, W. of 
Freiberg, traverses a Viaduct of 14 
arches, 170 ft. high in the centre. 

2 Oederan Stat. (Inns: Post; Hirsch), 
a manufacturing town of 3130 Inhab. 

Floha Junct. Stat. This little vil¬ 
lage is remarkable as the birthplace 
of the eminent statesman and lawyer 
Sam. Puffendorf, whose father was the 
minister here. On the rt. of the village 
of Floha rises the castle of Augustus- 
burg , built 1572 by the Elector Au¬ 
gustus. It has a well 286 yards deep, 
cut in the rock ; and a lime-tree 400 
years old is still growing in its garden. 
The chapel contains 2 pictures by L. 
Cranach. 

A line branches S. from Floha to 
Annaberg. 

Nieder Wiesa Stat. 

2 | Chemnitz Stat. ( Inns , Bdmischer 
Kaiser; Blauer Engel) is the prin¬ 
cipal manufacturing town in Saxony 
(58,573 Inhab.), situated in a beau¬ 
tiful and well-watered valley. The 
cotton goods, especially stockings, for 
which it is chiefly celebrated, and to 
which it owes its present prosperity, 
rival even the English in quality and 
cheapness. In the quantity of hosiery 
produced Saxony already equals Great 


Britain. The spacious factory of 
Becker and Schraps, the largest in 
Saxony, has 18,600 spindles. Stock¬ 
ings for the American market, which 
are almost exclusively supplied hence, 
are made here at the low rate of 3s. 4 d. 
a dozen. “ The chief inferiority to the 
British lies in their want of elasticity. 
The stocking-weavers for the most 
part are not congregated into manu¬ 
factories, hut live in cottages of their 
own, the fee-simple of which they 
have purchased by their own earnings. 
They cultivate in their own gardens the 
potatoes and other vegetables which 
form their usual food, and support from 
the same source the animals which pro¬ 
vide them with the small quantity of 
meat they consume: they live com¬ 
monly with great frugality on potatoes 
and coffee. When the demand for 
manufacture is slack, they employ 
themselves in the field and garden; 
when it is active, they devote them¬ 
selves to their frames and looms. The 
state provides them with gratuitous 
instruction, which has the happiest 
effect both on their industry and fru¬ 
gality.” Bowring. — Chemnitz is also 
famous for the manufacture of spinning 
machinery, which is sent to all parts of 
the Continent. For 400 years it was 
a free imperial city, and still displays 
in its buildings marks of its antiquity. 
The ancient walls have been pulled 
down, and their site converted into 
a pleasant Boulevard connecting the old 
town with its fine thriving suburbs. 

The Great Church , Stadtkirche , has 
a richly carved portal, imitating a 
framework of houghs, carved in stone, 
1525; within, a stone pulpit with 
bas-reliefs, 1536, and an altar-piece of 
which the original centre is destroyed, 
hut the wings, painted with 4 saints, 
are probably by Wohlgemuth. Next to 
it the chief buildings are the Bathhaus 
and Geicandhaus (cloth hall). 

Railways to Zwickau and Hof, to 
Kiesa, on the Leipzig and Dresden 
line. (Rte. 87.) 

2\ Lungwitz, a long village filled 
with stocking-weavers. Beyond Lich¬ 
tenstein the road traverses the valley 
of Miilsengrund, whose 8000 Inhab. 
arc chiefly stockingers. 





Saxony. RTE. 90 . —ZWiCKAij. LTe. 91 . —Leipzig to HOF. 499 


Glauchau Stat. 

2 i Zwickau Junct. Stat. (Tuns: Tannc, 
best; Post), a picturesque town, partly 
surrounded by an old wall, on the 
banks of the Zwickauer-Mulde, has 
24,500 Inkab. St. Mary's Ch ., the 
finest Gothic edifice in the Erzgebirge, 
date 1453-1536, is distinguished by its 
tall tower, which Luther often ascended 
on account of the pleasing view it com¬ 
mands. Within the ch. is a very 
fine altar-piece by the old German 
master Wohlgemuth , representing the 
Virgin and 9 life-size figures of female 
saints, surrounded by a richly carved 
Gothic frame-work, executed 1479, 
sculptured in wood. The Holy Se¬ 
pulchre, in the sacristy, is an elaborate 
piece of carving. In the Baptismal 
Chapel is a good picture by Cranach , 
“ Suffer the little Children.” In the 
ch. of St. Catherine (date 1465), the 
high altar-piece, the Feet Washing and 
other subjects, is by Hans v. Culmback, 
an artist of the Nuremberg school. 

Railroad from Zwickau through 
Schneeberg and the Erzgebirge (Rte. 
91 a) on the way to Carlsbad. 

Coal-beds are extensively worked in 
the neighbourhood of Zwickau. About 
15 m. S.E., at Aue, there are extensive 
cobalt-mines and smalt-works. Near 
this also is dug the porcelain earth from 
which the china manufactory of Meissen 
is supplied. The serpentine stone, 
which is turned in the lathe and manu¬ 
factured into various articles, comes 
from the quarries at Zoblitz. 

A branch railway, 1 Germ. m. in 
length, connects Zwickau with the 
Leipzig and Hof Railway (Rte. 91), at 
the Werdau Stat. 

See Rte. 91 for the remainder of the 
way to Hof. 


ROUTE 91. 

LEIPZIG TO IIOF, BY ALTENBURG AND 
WERDAU. RAILWAY. 

19 Germ. m. = 91| Eng. m. 

This Railroad was completed 1851 
from Leipzig to Hof (with a branch to 
Zwickau). It ascends the valley of 
the Pleisse, crossing that stream. 

2 ^ Kieritsch Stat. 

2+Altenburg Stat. ( Inns: Stadt Gotha, 
good; H. de Russie), the capital of 
the Duchy of Saxe Altenburg on the 
Pleisse, has 16,000 Inhab. The Palace 
(Schloss), on an escarped rock, was 
often the residence of Charlemagne, 
who here invested Otto of Wittelsbach 
with the Duchy of Bavaria. It con¬ 
sists of an older part dating from the 
13th cent., and a modern portion ; it is 
worth visiting, and contains an ar¬ 
moury. Out of one of its apartments 
the Robber Knights, Kunz of Kauf- 
ungen and William von Mosen, stole 
the young Saxon princes, Ernest and 
Albert, in 1445. The ducal family 
reside in the modern pai’t, built in the 
18th cent. 

The Rathhaus in the market-place is 
a picturesque specimen of Renaissance 
style, 1564. 

Von Lindenau’s Museum , in the old 
mansion called Pohlhof, contains some 
really good pictures of the Italian 
school. 

The Gothic Ch. (Stiff St. Georg), 
1412, containing exquisitely carved 
stalls, &c., of that date, deserves notice. 
The Mantel Thurm and Schloss Gate 
are very ancient. 

The Damm is the name of an agree¬ 
able promenade around a sheet of water 
on the S. side of the town. 

The inhabitants of the Duchy of 
Altenburg, by descent Wends, a branch 
of the Slavonic family, are distin¬ 
guished by their very peculiar and 
old-fashioned costumes handed down to 
them by their ancestors. The petti¬ 
coats of the women, like a Highlander’s 







500 


ROUTE 91. —PLAUEN. HOF. 


Sect. VII. 


kilt, reach no further than the knee; 
their bodies are enclosed in a cuirass of 
basket-work, and their heads are sur¬ 
mounted by a conical cap of portentous 
dimensions. The people have lost their 
language and speak German, but retain 
many old customs as well as their dress. 

Near Altenburg and Gera the Saxon 
tin-mines are situated. 

2 Gossnitz Junct. Stat. Branch rail¬ 
way to Chemnitz. (Rte. 90.) 

If Krimmitschau Stat. 

If Werdau Junct. Stat. Beyond this 
station a branch railway, 1 Germ. m. 
long, turns off to Zwickau. (Rte. 90.) 
1. rises the castle of Schonfels on a 
wooded height. 

Neumarkt Stat. 

Reichenbach Stat. (Inns : Dass 
Lamm; Engel) is a thriving manu¬ 
facturing town; it has 4500 Inhab., who 
are chiefly employed in the manufac¬ 
ture of muslin, and in spinning and 
weaving cotton and wool into kersey¬ 
meres, merinos, flannel, and “English 
thread.” 

Railway to Franzcnsbad and Eger, 
to Ratisbon and Munich. See Hand¬ 
book of South Germany. 

Beyond Reichenbach Stat. the Rail¬ 
way is carried over the deep Goltsch- 
thal on a high level bridge 2046 ft. long 
($ m.) and 278 ft. high, where the 
valley is deepest. It is composed of 4 
tiers of arches, one over the other, but 
in the centre the stream is crossed by 2 
arches, one above the other, 90 ft. span. 
There are 80 arches in this structure— 
the grandest of its sort in Germany. 
Nearer to Plauen the river and vale of 
the Elster are bridged by another viaduct 
of a different and more elegant design, 
891 ft. long and 225 ft. high, consisting 
of a lower tier of 2 arches, 93 ft. span, 
surmounted by an upper tier of 6 arches. 
It is chiefly of brick -work. 

Herlasgriin Stat. 

3 Plauen Stat. ( Inns: Deil’s Hotel; 
Deutsches Haus), a town of 16,000 
Inhab., also deriving prosperity from 
manufactures of linen, cotton, and 
muslin. It is irregularly built on 
uneven ground, and is traversed by 
the stream of the White Elster, which 
waters a romantic valley, and produces 
pearls; a royal fishery is established 


at Oelsnitz for collecting them. A 
great part of the town has been rebuilt 
since a fire in 1844. The old Castle 
(called Radschin), rising high above the 
town, was in ancient times the residence 
of the Bailiff, or Voigt (Advocatus regni), 
from whom the surrounding district got 
the name of Voigtland ; it is now con¬ 
verted into public offices. 

The railway passes over the high 
land which forms the watershed of the 
Elster and the Saale. The country is 
rather pleasing, partly cultivated, and 
partly covered with fir woods. 

Meltheuer Stat. 

Reuth Stat. About 4 m. beyond 
this the railway crosses the Bavarian 
frontier. 

Hof Stat.—Inns: Hirsch, attherly., 
good; Lamm; Brandenburger Ilof; 
Buffet. This is the first Bavarian 
town; it contains 8000 Inhab., and 
possesses important manufactures of 
cotton and woollen goods. Its situa¬ 
tion is so elevated that only the 
hardier kinds of fruits come to per¬ 
fection. The country around is bleak 
and barren; the rock is primary lime¬ 
stone abounding in fossils; and there 
are many iron-mines in the district. 
The town of Hof was burnt down for 
the tenth time recorded in its annals in 
1832, and consequently a large part is 
newly built. A handsome Rathliaus and 
a church were erected in 1833, but the 
place has nothing to detain the tra¬ 
veller. The frontiers of Saxony, Reuss, 
Prussia (the town of Gefall is Prussian), 
and Bohemia, are not more than 10 m, 
distant from Hof. An extensive smug¬ 
gling trade is carried on with Bohemia. 

The Railway connects Hof with Nu¬ 
remberg and Augsburg, passing Kulm- 
bach, Lichtenfels, and Bamberg. (See 
Handbook for South Germany , Rte. 
172.) 

Schncllpost to Carlsbad. 



Saxony. 


route 91 A 


•LEIPZIG TO CARLSBAD. 


501 


ROUTE 91a. 

LEIPZIG TO CARLSBAD. 

Proceed by the Railway described 
in Route 91, as far as Zwickau, to 
Schwarzenberg, or to 

Schneeberg Stat. ( Inns: Sachsischer 
Ilof, good; Fiirstenhaus), an import¬ 
ant mining town of 7500 Inhab., chiefly 
engaged in the mines, and in preparing 
the ores of silver, cobalt, &c., obtained 
from them. There is also a consider¬ 
able manufactory of smalt here. That 
used in the Dresden china is prepared 
here from the cobalt. The town was 
founded 1471, in consequence of the 
discovery of the mines. The Parish 
Church is a very fine building, in the 
latest Gothic, 1516-40. Its altar-piece 
is the finest work of the elder Cranach , 
the Crucifixion, and at the back the 
Last Judgment, with 8 -wings or shut¬ 
ters ; they are interesting as specimens 
of Protestant art, and the treatment of 
sacred subjects after the Reformation. 
Schneeberg snuff, a preparation of herbs 
found on the mountains of the Erzge¬ 
birge, taken as common snuff, is said to 
be good for sore eyes, and to cure head¬ 
aches. In the neighbourhood are the 
picturesque castles of Stein, Eisenburg, 
and Wiesenburg. 

The mining district of the Erzge¬ 
birge (ore mountains) displays the 
bounty of nature less on its surface than 
below ground, where she has stored 
away, for the use of man, vast supplies 
of silver, lead, tin, iron, cobalt, and coal. 
The soil is poor, and vegetation is 
partly checked in the vicinity of the 
mines by the vapours from smelting 
furnaces; still the country is varied 
-with hills, well wooded and generally 
pretty. 

The road passes through Eiben- 
stock [Inn, Sachsischer Hof), a mining 
town of 4400 Inhah.; in and about it 
are furnaces, foundries, and tin-mines. 

3 Wildenthal. ( Inn , Post.) Hence 
to Carlsbad there are two roads. On 
the road here described there are no 
relays of post-horses between Wildeu- 
thal and Carlsbad. 

14 Johann - Georgenstadt (vulgarly 
called Hansgorgenstadt).— Inns: Rath¬ 
skeller; Schiesshaus. A mining town, 


named after the Elector John George, 
in whose reign it was built as an asylum 
for the Protestants driven out of Bo¬ 
hemia by Ferdinand II., 1654. It has 
about 3400 Inhab. It suffered the loss 
of 300 houses by a fire, 1867. It stands 
in a rough and very elevated district, a 
sort of Saxon Siberia, -whose produce 
lies beneath the barren surface, and 
consists of silver, tin, lead, iron, cobalt, 
bismuth, uranium, &c. The men are 
chiefly miners, the women employ 
themselves in making bobbinet. Hence 
to the Bohemian frontier is not more 
than a mile. 

4 Carlsbad , in Handbook for South 
Germany , Rte. 260. The nearest 
road from Carlsbad to Dresden is by 
Joachimsthal, Annabcrg, and Freiberg. 
South Germany , Rte. 259. 


ROUTE 92. 

CASSEL TO COBURG, BY EISENACH 
AND MEININGEN.—RAILWAY. 

The Friedrich - Wilhelms Kordbahn 
connects Cassel with Eisenach. Trains 
in 4 h. 

Eisenach to Coburg, 14f Germ. m. 
= 68 ^ Eng. m. Wcrra-Bahn opened 
1862. 

Wilhelmshohe Stat. 

Guntershausen Junction Stat. Here 
the railway from Eisenach and Hallo 
meets the Frankfurt and Cassel line. 
Rte. 70. Picturesque country. 

Melsungen Stat. The Fulda is crossed. 

Morschen Stat. 

Rothenburg Stat. 

Bebra Junct. Stat. on the Fulda; 
Tunnel. Here the Rly. from Frank¬ 
furt to Leipzig (Rte. 86 ) falls in 

Gerstungen Stat. This town is in 
the Duchy of Weimar, on the river 
Werra, along the valley of which the 
railway runs, crossing it 3 times, to 

Eisenach Junct. Stat. (Rte. 86). 

Rly. to Meiningen and Coburg—the 
Werra-Bahn. Trains in 3^ hrs. 

The valley of the Werra, below 
Eisenach, to Kreuzberg and Eschwege, 









502 


ROUTE 92. —ALTENSTEIN. SCHMALKALDEN. Sect. VII. 


is picturesque and fertile; the Meissner 
hill is a fine object. 

From Eisenach the rly., passing in a 
tunnel 1670 ft. long under the "Wart- 
burg Hill, runs nearly S., traversing a 
hilly district, almost covered with the 
woods of the great Thurinqian Forest. 

Marksuhl Stat. Enter Yale of Werra. 

Salzungen Stat. ( Inns: Ivurhaus, 
comfortable and cheap; Sachsischer 
Hof), a prettily situated watering-place 
on the shore of a lake, with salt-works. 
In the village Mohra, the cradle of the 
family of Luther, a bronze statue of him 
has been set up. 

Immelborn Stat. [About 3 m. off lies 
the Bath of Liebenstein (Inns: Bellevue, 
a fine hotel, with all comforts (W. C.) ; 
Badhaus; Muller’s H.), charmingly 
situated on the skirts of the Thuringian 
Forest. The court of Saxe Meiningen 
passes a portion of the bath season here, 
in the building called Fiirstenhaus. 
The spring furnishes one of the strongest 
chalybeate waters in Germany, more 
used for bathing than drinking. Lie¬ 
benstein affords the usual amuse¬ 
ments of a watering-place— daily 
music on the walks, balls, concerts, 
and theatrical performances during 
the season. A little way behind the 
baths is the Frdfall, a deep recess in 
the mountain side, piled round with 
masses of rock, somewhat resembling a 
colossal Cyclopean wall, overgrown at 
the top with trees, so as to form an 
agreeable retreat in hot weather. Plea¬ 
sant walks lead from thence along the 
heights to the Old Castle of Liebenstein , 
the cradle of the family of Saxe Mein¬ 
ingen. It is founded on the rock, and 
parts of its foundation walls fill up 
the chasms in the limestone. Its towers 
command a delightful view over the 
forests of Thuringia, along the vale of 
the Werra, and as far as the Rhonge- 
birge. 

About 3 m. from Liebenstein is the 
Duke of Saxe Meiningen’s chateau 
Altenstein , very finely situated on the 
brow of a hill, with a grassplat and 
fountain in front, and surrounded by a 
beautiful park. A crucifix is planted 
on a projecting rock, marking, accord¬ 
ing to tradition, the spot from which 
St. Boniface , the apostle of Germany, 


preached Christianity to the pagan in¬ 
habitants of the country. ^ an hour’s 
walk from the castle, in the midst of 
the forest, but not far from the road, 
stood until 1841, when it was blown 
down, u Luther's Buche" (Luther’s 
Beech), so called from the tradition that 
it was beneath it that the bold Reformer, 
on his return from Worms, after the 
Papal bull had been uttered against him, 
was surprised by a party of armed men 
in masks, who mounted him on their 
horses and carried him away a prisoner 
to the castle of Wartbiu'g. This sur¬ 
prise was conceited by his friend and 
patron the Elector Frederick the Wise 
of Saxon 3 ^. A memorial Pillar at¬ 
tached to a well called Luthersbrunnen 
records the event of the capture, and 
the place where it occurred.] 

At Gliicksbrunn, a village half way 
between Liebenstein and Altenstein, is 
one of the most remarkable of the Ca¬ 
verns in which the limestone (dolomite) 
of this district abounds. 

Wernshausen Stat. [About 3 m. 
off lies Schmalkalden. This ancient 
and unaltered town, of 5400 Inliab., 
still preserves its double row of 
antique ramparts, and its fosse. Its 
houses are mostly built of wood, 
with timber framework, and, like those 
of Chester and Shrewsbury, have a 
highly picturesque character. Most of 
its inhabitants are smiths, and follow 
their trade in shops on the ground floor. 
In the market-place stand the Gothic 
Church and the two chief Lnns , Adler 
and Krone; the latter comfortable: in 
it the famous Protestant League of 
Schmalkalden was signed, 1531. In the 
Sannersche Haus, the articles of the 
League were drawn up by Luther, Me- 
lanchthon, Agricola, and other divines. 
On a height above the town rises the 
old Electoral castle, Wilhelmsburg. The 
valley in which Schmalkalden stands 
may be regarded as one great smithy; 
its inhabitants are chiefly workmen in 
metal, cutlers, makers of gimlets, &c. 
The iron ore is supplied from numerous 
mines in the vicinity. Below the town 
are extensive salt-works.] 

The pretty valley of the Werra di¬ 
vides 2 of the boldest mountain ridges 




ROUTE 92. —MEININGEN. COBURG. 


503 


Saxony, 

in central Germany—the Thuringerwald 
and the Hohe Rhon. The land is fer¬ 
tile, and much tobacco is cultivated. 

Wasungen Stat. 

Walldorf Stat. 

rt. On a height above the Werra 
stands the modern ducal castle, Schloss 
Landsberg , ornamented with frescoes 
and glass paintings by Munich artists, 
in good taste. It commands beautiful 
views. 

Meiningen Stat. ( Inns Sachsischer Hof; 
Hirsch), a town of 8200 Inhab., built 
in the form of a harp, on the rt. bank 
of the Werra, encircled by wooded hills. 
It is the capital of the Duchy of Saxe 
Meiningen, and residence of the Duke. 
The principal building is the Palace , 
containing various collections of art, 
paintings of the Italian schools, and by 
modem artists, and natural history. 
There are an agreeable Park and gar¬ 
dens attached to it, and within these a 
modem Gothic Chapel with painted 
glass from Munich. The Jews form 
an important quota of the community, 
and have built a handsome new quarter. 

The Church is ancient, but defaced by 
pews and galleries. Behind the altar 
are some monuments of knights, and in 
the sacristy some specimens of chrn'ch 
plate, vestments, &c. 

[A road strikes off from Meiningen to 
Kissingen, by Mellrichstadt (2^G. m.), 
through part of the forest, to Neustadt 
(2 G. m.), an old walled town on the 
Franconian Saal, overhung by the in¬ 
teresting and extensive remains of the 
castle of Salzburg. Here is a neat clean 
Inn. Miinnerstadt (1 G. m.) to Kissin- 
J gen (Djf G. m.). See Handbook for 
South Germany .] 

2^ Thcmar Stat. Inn , Post. 

1\ Hildburghausen Stat. Inns : II. 
d’Angleterre, comfortable; Sachsisches 
Haus, fair. The Palace was, down to 
1826, the residence of the Dukes of 
Saxe Hildburghausen, until the ex¬ 
tinction of the line of Gotha, when 
they removed to Altenburg, and Hild¬ 
burghausen was united to Meinin¬ 
gen. The town contains about 4000 
Inhab., many Jews. It is a lifeless 
place. The older quarter is of consi¬ 
derable antiquity. 


[9 m. W. is Pimhild , in whose 
Church are remarkable monuments of 
the Counts of Hennoberg, cast in 
bronze in 1520, by Peter Vischer and 
his sons.] 

Eisfeld Junct. Stat., famed for beer. 
Rly. to Sonneberg. 

Coburg Stat. Inns: Hotel Leuth- 
auser, very good; Goldner Lowe; 
Griiner Baum (Poste). This is one 
of the residence towns of the Duke 
of Saxe-Coburg-Gotha, the other being 
Gotha. Pop. about 11,400. It is re¬ 
markable for its clean and opulent- 
looking houses. In the market-place 
are some picturesque old houses, and 
a statue of the late Prince Consort, 
modelled by Theed, cast at Nuremberg, 
and erected to his memory in the 
presence of the widowed Queen Vic¬ 
toria, 1865. 

The Palace called Ehrenburg , the 
town residence of the Duke, built 
1549, is a Gothic edifice, forming 3 
sides of a quadrangle, with a turreted 
entrance. It contains portraits of the 
Coburg family, some modern paint¬ 
ings, and. a collection of Engravings , 
which are not shown, and has some 
handsome apartments. There are some 
fine specimens of marqueterie in the 
doors, and Coburg is to this day cele¬ 
brated for that manufacture. The 
Moritz-Kirche contains 4 fine ducal 
monuments—bronze reliefs of the 16th 
and 17 th centuries. The Park and 
Pleasure-grounds are reached by flights 
of steps aseending from the Haupt- 
wache. 

The Theatre belongs to the Duke, 
and is extremely well conducted. In 
the Arsenal (Zeughaus') there is some 
fine armour and arms of all ages, and 
some Turkish trophies, won by the 
Prince of Crburg, Austrianfield-marshal. 

The ancient * Castle of the Dukes 
of Coburg, situated on a commanding 
eminence, 523 ft. above the towm, half 
an hour’s ascent, is well worth seeing. ‘ 
The views from it extend over the 
Thuringerwald as far as the Franconian 
Switzerland. It has been repaired, 
decorated with modern frescoes, and in 
part converted into a Museum for art 
and antiquities; but some of the 
chambers remain in their original con- 







504 


ROUTE 93. —GOTTINGEN TO GOTHA. 


Sect. VII. 


dition, especially those occupied by 
Luther (1530), who passed 3 months 
here in retirement, during the Diet of 
Augsburg, and finished here his trans¬ 
lation of the Prophets and Psalms, and 
composed the famous hymn 1 Eine 
feste Burg ist unser Gott.’ The bed¬ 
stead he slept upon during his conceal¬ 
ment here, and the pulpit from which 
he preached in the-old Chapel , are shown. 
The collections are shown to the public, 
fee to the Castellan 1 fl. for a party. 
They include paintings, carvings in 
wood, portraits of the Reformers, cannon 
and firearms of all ages. The “horn 
room,” is panelled with oak inlaid 
with woods of different kinds, and 
enclosing mosaic pictures. Another 
room contains portraits of persons en¬ 
gaged in the Seven Years’ War. There 
is much valuable armour here. The 
Castle was besieged in vain by Wal¬ 
lenstein in the Thirty Years’ War 
(1632). Outside the Avails may still 
he seen the remains of the chains to 
which a traitor, who attempted to 
betray the place, was hung in full 
view of-the besieging army. 

Among the many country-houses be¬ 
longing to the Duke, the hunting-seats 
of Rosenau , 4 m. N. of Coburg, and 
Kallenherg, 2 m., most deserve notice 
for the elegant style in which they 
are fitted up, and the beauty of 
their situation. The parks and forests 
around them abound in fine timber and 
game of every description. Rosenau, 
a Gothic manor - house gabled and 
battlemented, on a wooded hill com¬ 
mands wide forest views. Here the 
great and good Prince Albert was born 
1819, and here Queen Victoria has 
resided at various times. 

Branch Rly. to Sonnebcrg, Rte. 94. 

The Railway is continued from Co¬ 
burg to the Lichtenfels Stat. on the 
Hof and Nuremberg railway (9m.), by 

Niederfullbach Stat. 

Ebendorf Stat. 

Lichtenfels Janet. Stat. (Rte. 93), in 
the valley of the Main. Handbook for 
South Germany , Rte. 172. 


ROUTE 93. 

GOTTINGEN TO GOTHA, COBURG, AND 
BAMBERG ; THE TIIURINGIAN FOREST : 
— BATHS OF LIEBENSTEIN, AND 
SCHMALKALDEN. 

32 Germ. m. = 151'Eng. m., a mac¬ 
adamised road. Schnellpost daily. 
About a mile from Heiligenstadt the 
Prussian frontier is crossed. 

3| Heiligenstadt. — Inns: Preus- 
sischer Hof; Deutsches Haus. (Seo 
Rte. 67.) This was formerly capital 
of the district called Eichsfeld. 

2 Dingelstadt. 

Miihlhausen ( Inns : Schwan; 
Kbnig von Preussen), an ancient 
walled town of 12,000 Inhab., plea¬ 
santly situated in the midst of a very 
fertile country on the Unstrut. It was 
anciently a free city of the empire. The 
Marienkirche in the Oberstadt is the 
finest church, in pure and bold Gothic 
of the 14th cent. Its nave has 5 
aisles. Miinzcr, the fanatic preacher, 
who excited the Thuringian peasants 
to revolt in 1524-25, made Muhlhau- 
sen his head-quarters, and collected 
around him a misguided host of 30,000 
men, expelling the legitimate magis¬ 
trates. His undisciplined bands, how¬ 
ever, were soon dispersed in the battle 
of Frankenhausen; he himself was 
brought hither a prisoner, and, after 
being tortured, was publicly executed. 

Langensalza ( Inns: Mohr; Sonne), 
an industrious manufacturing town, 
with a Pop. of 7000, giving name to a 
battle in 1866, in which the Hanove¬ 
rian army, about 20,000 strong, com¬ 
manded by the King, repulsed the 
Prussians and gained an advantage, but 
abandoned the post at Eisenach on the 
faith of an armistice negotiated by Ernest 
Duke of Saxe Coburg, that the armies 
were to remain in statu quo. During 
the night, however, the Prussians 



1 


505 


Saxony. 


ROUTE 93. —GOTHA. SUHL. 


brought up 50,000 men, and the Han¬ 
overians were forced to surrender. 
The village and bathhouse of Merx- 
leben were held by the Prussians as 
the key of their position until driven 
out by the Hanoverians. Merxleben 
is about 2 m. out of the town; it has a 
saline sulphureous spring of some re¬ 
putation, supplying Baths, much re¬ 
sorted to in summer. 

2^- Gotha.— In Rte. 86. Eilwagen 
daily in .10 hrs.; hilly road. 

2 Ohrdruf (Inn, Anker or Post), an 
old and industrious town, 4500 Inhab., 
seat of the family of Hohenlohe- 
Obergleichen. The road now begins 
to ascend the highest ridge of the 
Thuringian mountains, by easy tra¬ 
verses, admirably constructed. 

2 Oberhoff, a hamlet of 46 wooden 
houses occupied by wood-cutters, with 
post-house and Inn, close to the Duke’s 
Hunting Lodge. The forest here may 
almost be called primaeval; the pines 
often attain the height of 280 ft. It 
yields a yearly revenue of 100,000/. in 
building-timber alone. Game of every 
description abounds; the red deer are 
of an enormous size ; and that elsewhere 
rare bird the. bustard occurs here in 
great numbers. Between 700 and 800 
stags are killed in a year ; and 20 or 30 
of these noble animals may be seen from 
the road in passing in the evening. The 
Duke of Saxe Coburg is allowed to 
have the finest chasse in Germany. 

At the little town of Zella a road 
strikes off on the rt. by Benhausen 
(2 G. m.) to Meiningen (2^ G. m.). 
See Itte. 92. 

Soon after leaving Oberhoff the road 
attains its highest elevation. An obelisk, 
at the summit-level, commemorates its 
construction. The view here is truly 
magnificent, over a great extent of this 
noble forest, the dark abyss of its 
valleys, and its mountains clad with 
pines, except their often craggy sum¬ 
mits. From this point we descend to 

* 

2 Suhl (Inns: Deutsches Haus, best; 
Krone), the principal town of the Prus¬ 
sian county of Henneberg, prettily 
situated in the valley of the Lauter, at 
the base of theDomberg, a cliff of which, 

[N. G.J 


the Ottilienstein, a grand rock of por¬ 
phyry, appears to overhang the town, 
and commands a fine view. Pop. 
7118, chiefly weavers of linen or woollen, 
or gunsmiths. Suhl has long been cele¬ 
brated for its fire-arms, and for centuries 
was the only manufactory of them in 
Germany. 

2 Schleusingen.— Inn. Griiner Baum. 
Bte. 94 b. 

If Hildburghausen. 1-r, 

n Rodach ? a iT ay i9 

24 Coburg Stat. | In Rte ' 93 ‘ 

The Railway to Bamberg and Hof by 
Leipzig is an important line of com¬ 
munication between N. and S. Ger¬ 
many; and there is much traffic of 
merchandise upon it. It enters the 
territory of Bavaria about half way 
between Coburg and 


2 Lichtenfels Junct. Stat. on the 
Railroad from Leipzig to Nuremberg , by 
Bamberg (Inns : Krone, dear and 
dirty; Kreutz),—a town of 2000 Inhab., 
on the Main, carrying on some trade 
in timber floated down the river. 

Staffelstein Stat., a village pos¬ 
sessing a celebrated pilgrimage Church 
of the Vierzehn Heiligen, under the 
Staffelberg, a remarkable table hill, 
which hems in the river on the 1., while 
on the rt. rises a height, crowned by 
the suppressed convent of Banz, now 
residence of Duke Max of Bavaria. 
The Main, on issuing from this open¬ 
ing in the hills, flows past the small 
town of 

Zapfendorf Stat., to 

Bamberg Stat.—in Handbook of South 
Germany. 


Z 




506 


route 94. —Leipzig to coburg. Sect. VII. 


BOUTE 94. 

LEIPZIG TO COBURG, BY JENA, RUDOL- 
STADT, SONNEBERG, PAULINZELLE, ETC. 

25f Germ. m. = 120^ Eng. m. Post- 
road ; no public conveyance. 

6f Naumburg, in Bte. 86. 

2 Hamburg, on the Saale. It was 
through, the defile in the rear of the 
castle of Domhurg that the French 
marched to outflank the Prussians at 
the battle of Jena, 1806. Bad road. 

1^ Jena (Inns: Bar; Sonne), a dull, 
dingy, antiquated town, in a hollow sur¬ 
rounded by naked hills, having nothing 
worth notice but its University , founded 
1550 by the Elector John Frederick of 
Saxony, of whom there is a hronze 
statue by Drake. It numbers at present 
about 500 students. “Groups of them, in 
falling collars not particularly clean, 
and flowing hair not remarkably glossy, 
may be seen swaggering about with 
foils, masks, and cudgels.” L. R. G .— 
The University Museum, is valuable to 
students. The Garden of the Observatory 
was Schiller’s favourite resort while Pro¬ 
fessor of History,between 1789 and 1799, 
and he composed in it his ‘Wallenstein.’ 
An old tower (Fuchsthurm) on the Haus- 
berg,behind Jena, commands a fine view. 

The road, somewhat narrow and 
very serpentine, but not bad, takes 
its course • among clear streams and 
happy-looking villages, and afterwards 
through forests of pine, to 

3 Kloster Launitz, a clean village inn. 

The road continues to follow the 
pretty valley of the Saale ascending 
it along the 1. bank of that river. 

2 Kahla (Inns: Stem; Lowe), a 
town of 1200 Inhab. On the opposite 
bank of the Saale stands the castle of 
Leuchtenburg , now a prison. The nex'; 
object worth mentioning is the ruinec. 


castle Orlamiinde , on a hill beneath 
which the road passes. 

3 Budolstadt— Inns: Bitter ; Lowe; 
Adler. Outside the town, in a beau¬ 
tiful situation, is the Bathhouse ; 
good, plain accommodation, very mo¬ 
derate— Baths of AYr-leaf (Fichten- 
nadelbad),—the chief town of the prin¬ 
cipality of Schwarzburg-Budolstadt. 
Pop. 4000. A heautiful country, sandy 
soil; charming rides and walks; good 
roads and carriages. On the summit 
of an eminence nearly 200 ft. above the 
river stands the residence of the prince, 
the Castle of Heideksburg , containing 
some pictures and a library. The Lud¬ 
wig sburg in the town contains a cabinet 
of natural history, rich in shells. Oppo¬ 
site Volksstadt a bust of Schiller has 
been set up to commemorate the poet’s 
residence here in 1788. 

Diligence to Weimar and Arnstadt. 

At Schwarza (Inn, Bremer Hof.), 3 
m. above Budolstadt, the river Schwarza 
joins the Saale. 5 m. from Budolstadt, 
above the small town of Blankenburg 
(Inn, Schwazburger Hof or Chrysopras, 

^ m. out of the town, is best), rise the 
picturesque ruins of the castle of Greif- 
enstein, birthplace of the unfortunate 
Empr. Gunther of Schwarzburg. 5 m. 
farther up this winding valley, one of 
the most beautiful in Thuringia, on the 
summit of a bold precipitous rock, 
stands the Castle of Schwarzburg. The 
greater part of the building is modern, 
erected after a conflagration, 1726. It 
presents little worth seeing except the 
Kaiser Saal, a relic still preserved of 
the old castle. It contains portraits of 
Boman emperors, from Julius Caesar to 
Charles IV., miserable daubs, and some 
ancient armour, including a suit attri¬ 
buted to the Empr. Gunther. Inn , 
Weisser Hirsch, near Schwarzburg. 
Travellers should ascend the Tripstein, 
1^ m. from the castle, for the sake of 
the unrivalled view. There is a cross 
road from Blankenburg to the interest¬ 
ing ruins of the Abbey of Paulinzelle, 9 
m. distant. It was founded, 1105, by 
Pauline, daughter of the cupbearer of 
the Empr. Henry IV. It is finely 
situated in the depths of a forest. The 





507 


Saxony. route 94 b.—erfurt to coburg. 


church is a very interesting monument 
of the plain Byzantine or Romanesque 
style; date, the close of the 11 th cent.; 
the E. end is gone. Near the abbey are 
the monks’ fish-ponds, and a good Inn. 

1 Saalfeld. Inns: Hirsch, best; 
Goldener Anker, one of the oldest inns 
in Germany—the Empr. Charles V. 
put up here, along with his prisoner 
the Elector John Frederick, June 27, 
1547. 

Saalfeld is a very ancient walled 
town, in the midst of the Thuringian 
forest, and contains 4800 Inhab. The 
Rathhaus in the market-place is a vene¬ 
rable Gothic edifice. The Gothic Ch. 
of St. John was built 1212, out of funds 
produced by the neighbouring gold¬ 
mines of Reichmannsdorf; the painted 
glass, and a colossal wooden statue of 
St. John in the interior, deserve no¬ 
tice. Near the town wall, at the side 
of the Saale, are the ruins of the Sor- 
benburg , a fort dating from the 8th 
cent., built, according to tradition, to 
defend the frontier from inroads of the 
Slavonic barbarians, the Sorbic-Vends. 

The old Ducal Castle , also within the 
town, is now the Mint. 

In the suburb outside the walls is 
the more modem Chateau or Palace of 
the Dukes of the extinct line of Saxe- 
Saalfeld, with fine gardens attached to 
it. The road now quits the banks of 
the Saale, and begins to ascend the 
central ridge of the Thiiringerwald. 
The battle of Jena, so fatal to Prussia, 
began near Saalfeld. A cast-iron monu¬ 
ment has been erected to Prince Lewis 
of Prussia on the spot where he fell. 

2^ Grafenthal ( Inns: Post; Weisses 
Ross). Near this you have a fine view 
of Wespenstein, an old castle of the 
Pappenheims, in ruins. 

3^ Sonneberg (Inns : Post; Bar). 
This town, of 3200 Inhab., is chiefly 
remarkable for the peculiar manu¬ 
facture of toys, dolls, boxes of va¬ 
rious kinds, including pill-boxes, 
boot-jacks, chess-boards, and the end¬ 
less variety of articles for the amuse¬ 
ment of children which fill the toy¬ 
shops of every quarter of the globe, 


and are commonly called Dutch toys. 
There are several manufactories of 
papier mache, to make dolls’ heads, and 
of pipe-heads; and one or two mills 
for grinding boys’ marbles. Hones for 
sharpening knives are prepared here 
out of a species of slate ; and there is 
also a quarry producing slate-pencils 
in the neighbourhood. Altogether the 
trade in toys is supposed to produce 
400,000 fl. yearly. The Duke of Mein- 
ingen has established a School of Design 
for the improvement of the workpeople. 
Adolph Fleischman is the chief manu¬ 
facturer. Here is a pretty modem 
Gothic Church built from Heideloff’s 
designs ; the vaulted roof is of wood. 

A branch Railway is made to Eisfeld 
and Coburg. 

2 Neustadt Stat. Inn , Halbe Mond. 

1^ Coburg Junct. Stat. (In Rte. 92.) 


ROUTE 94 b. 

ERFORT TO COBURG. 

15 Germ m. = 69 Eng. m. 

A good road, but not furnished with 
post-horses, connects Erfurt with 
Schleusingen on the road from Gotha 
to Coburg. The country is very pretty 
from Erfurt to 

z 2 




508 


ROUTE 94 B.—ERFURT TO COBURG. 


Sect. VII. 


21 Amstadt.— Inns: Die Henne ; 
Der Greif. 5300 Inhab. The Lieb- 
frauenkirche , a capital specimen of Ger¬ 
man Gothic of the 12th and 13th cent., 
displays peculiar sculpture on its ex¬ 
terior, and some interesting monu¬ 
ments within. The finest is that of 
Giinther v. Schwarzhurg and his wife, 
1368. The Schloss, formerly the resi¬ 
dence of the Schwarzhurg family, des¬ 
cended, on the failure of that line, to 
the Sondershausen family. Of the old 
Schloss there only remain a tower, 
and some walls of 1554. 

[A road 4f Germ. m. in length has 
been opened between Arnstadt and 
Kudolstadt through a beautiful coun¬ 
try.] After leaving Arnstadt the road 
runs through a narrow valley amidst 
beechwood, and then rises, passing 
through the vale of the Gera, by Plaue, 
with the stately ruins of Ehrenburg 
Castle, and by Martinsrode (huge oak- 
tree) to 

2-§ Ilmenau (/nn, Lowe). This town 


of 2700 Inhab. belongs to Weimar. 
Here are mines of manganese and iron. 
Near it is Elgersburg, romantically 
situated, and an establishment for the 
cold-water cure. The road after leaving 
Ilmenau ascends for 2 m. to a height 
of 2500 ft., and then descends with 
many windings through a forest be¬ 
longing to the King of Prussia to 
4 Schleusingen (/wn, Griiner Baum, 
3000 Inhab.), a town formerly belong¬ 
ing to the Counts of Henneherg, now 
to Prussia. The old castle of Bertholds - 
burg , prettily situated on a hill, has 
been repaired by the King of Prussia. 
In a chapel built 1723, adjoining the 
Stadtkirche , are the tombs of the 
Counts of Henneherg; and in the 
neighbourhood a suppressed Prsemon- 
strant Abbey, an interesting monument 
of German architecture of the 12th 
cent. 

If Hildburghausen. 1 -n -i „ 
lfEisfeld. S. alh ?/' 

4 CoBCRG. | Ete - 92 ‘ 



( 509 ) 


SECTION VIII. 

NASSAU. — FRANKFURT. — HESSE-DARMSTADT. — RHENISH 
EAVARIA. — BADEN. — THE RHINE FROM MAYENCE TO 
STRASBURG. 

Preliminary Information.— 54. Money .—55. Posting. 


ROUTE PAGE 

95. The Baths and Brunnen of 

Nassau. Coblenz to Frank - 
furt-on-the-Main, by Eras , 
Schwalbach, Schlangenbad , 
and Wiesbaden . . .511 

96. Giessen to Coblenz, by Weil- 

burg , Limburg , and Ems— 
Rail. .... 528 

97. The Taunus Mountains— 

Wiesbaden to Frankfurt, 
by Eppstein, K b nig stein, 
Soden , and Homburg . . 530 

98. Bingen to Mayence, by In- 

gelheim — Rail. . . . 533 

99. MayencetoFrankfurt—R ail. 534 
99a. Mayence to Darmstadt and 

Aschaffenburg—R ailway . 535 

100. Bingen to Kreuznach and Saar - 

brucken — River Nahe — 
Rail .... 535 
1 00a. Saarbriicken to Treves ( Saar - 

louts ..... 538 

101. Mayence to Metz, by Kaisers¬ 

lautern, Homburg (Zwei- 
briicken), Saarbriick, and 
Forbach—R ail. . . 538 

102. The Rhine (E). Mayence 

to Strasburg, by Worms. 


ROUTE PAGE 

Mannheim, and Spires — 

Rail .540 

103. Mannheim (Ludwigshafen) 

to Metz and Paris, by Hom¬ 
burg, Kaiserslautern, Saar - 
brucken, and Forbach — 
Railway of the Palatinate 549 

104. Mayence to Strasburg, by 

Mannheim, Neustadt, and 
Landau — Railway. Ex¬ 

cursions to Diirkheim , Ann- 
vceiler , and Trifels . .550 

105. Frankfurt to Basle, by Darm¬ 

stadt, the • Bergstrasse and 
Odenwald, Heidelberg, Carls- 
ruhe, and Freiburg — Rail. 552 

106. Carlsruhe (Oos) to Baden- 

Baden —Branch Railway . 571 

107. Baden to Strasburg — Rail. . 577 

108. Offenburg to Schaffhausen and 

Constance, by the Kinzig- 
thal and Donaueschingen — 
Rail .... 581 

109. Freiburg in Breisgau to 

Schaffhausen, by the Hol- 
lenthal .... 585 

110. Heidelberg to Wurzburg, by 

Mosbach . . . .587 


§ 54. MONEY. 

In Nassau, Baden, Darmstadt, Frankfurt, &c., accounts are kept in Florins or 
Gulden. 1 Florin (= Is. 8 d.) contains 60 kreutzers, 3 kr. = \d. 









510 


§ 55. POSTING}. 


Sect. VIII. 


Gold Coins (rare). 

FI. kr. 

Caroline (or French Louis d’Or) . . . = 11 6 to 12. 

Ducat.= 5 24 to 36. 

% 

The States of Southern and Western Germany, including Bavaria, Wiirtem- 
berg, Baden, and Hesse, issue a uniform coinage. (See § 32.) 


Few Silver Coinage. 

1 Vereins Thaler = 1 florin 45 kr. 

2 Vereins Thalers = 3 florins 30 kr. = 2 Prussian dollars. 

kr. 

Florin . . = 60 = Is. 8 d. = 2 Fr. francs 15 cents. 

^ Florin . . = 30 — 10c?. 

£ Florin . . = 15 — 5 d. 

Pieces of 6 kr., 3 kr. or groschen, and 1 kr. 


Old Silver Coins. 

Crown, Kronthaler, or Brabant FI. kr. 

Thaler . . . . 2 = 2 42 = 4s. 

Pieces of two and one florin . = 3s. 4 d. and Is. 8d. 


Value of foreign coins in florins and kreutzers :— 


FI. kr. 

French Napoleon — 9 30 to 20 

English Sovereign = 11 45 to 36 

Kron or Brab. Thaler = 1 20 
Conventions Thaler = 2 24 


FI. kr. 

Prussian Frederic d’or = 9 48 

Thaler = 1 45 

French 5-franc piece — 2 20 

1-franc = 0 28 


§ 55. POSTING. 


Tariff per post of 2 Germ. m. 


Frankfurt-A. -M, 

Nassau 

Darmstadt 


Each Horse. Postilion. 

FI. kr. 2 3 4 horses. 

1 30 40 kr. 50 kr. 1 'fl. 

1 15 40 50 1 

1 30 45 55 1 5 kr. 


These charges will now conform to the Prussian tariff. 


The postmaster in Mayence is authorised to charge 52-^ kr. for each horse per 
post. 


Baden . . 1 30 36 45 1 10 


The charges for horses vary from time to time with the price of forage. 

The usual rate of travelling is a post in 1£ to 1^ hr. when the road is 
not very hilly. The distances to all the adjoining post stations are hung up 
in front of every post-house. 





Nassau. 


ROUTE 95.— -THE BRUNNEN OF NASSAU. EMS. 511 

. Travellers Usually pay the postilion 1 fl. for 2 horses per post, which 
is quite enough. On some roads 1 fl, 12 kr. (3 zwanzigers) is given, which 
is high pay. 

A light open carnage, holding 4 without heavy baggage, may be drawn by 2 
horses : a heavy trunk counts as one person. 

A postchaise or caleche costs from 50 kr. to 1 fl. a post. 

The Wagenmeister, when entitled to he paid separately, usually receives 
12 kr., and 12 more when he greases the wheels. 

Charges at Inns: —Rooms on 1st floor, 1 fl. to 1 fl. 12 kr.; 2nd or 3rd floor, 
>>6 kr.; table-d’hote, 1 fl. 12 kr.; 1 fl. 36 kr.; bottle of wine, 30 kr.; 
breakfast (coffee or tea, with bread and butter), 20 kr. Beds, 1| florin. 


ROUTES. 


ROUTE 95. 

THE BATHS AND BRUNNEN OF NASSAU. 
COBLENZ TO FRANKFURT-ON-THE- 
MAIN, BY EMS, SCHWALBACH, SCIILAN- 
GENBAD, AND WIESBADEN. 

14 Germ. m. = 64 Eng. m. 

Railway , Lahnstein to Ems, along the 
1. bank of the Lahn—finished 1858— 
and thence to Nassau, Limburg. 
Giessen, Berlin, and Leipzig. N.B.— 
Since the Rly. up the rt. bank of the 
Rhine was opened, it affords the readiest 
access to Schlangenbad, Schwalbach 
(by Eltville), and Wiesbaden. 

The Railroad from Coblenz to Ems 
crosses the Rhine by a permanent 
bridge a little above the town, and fol¬ 
lows the rt. bank of the Rhine, passing 
orchards and vineyards, to 
Nieder-Lahnstein Stat. (Rte. 38); 
and thence up its rt. bank through 
the village of Nievem, Ahl, and the 
iron-works of Ilohenrain, where it 
crosses the Lahn to 


Ober-Lahnstein Stat. (Buffet), and 
reaches, through varied and beautiful 
scenery, 

Ems Stat., about 12 m., in 1 hr. 

There is a footpath over the hills by 
Arzheim and Fachbach, a walk of 2 
hrs. 

2 Ems Stat., 1. bank of Lahn,— Inns 
and lodging-houses: —*H. d’Angleterre, 
at the W. end of Ems, comfortable for 
families;—H. de Russie, good, near 
the centre of the town;—H. Yier 
Thiirme (same landlord), 'connected 
with the Baths, frequented by English; 
—Darmstadter Hof (Post), near the 
Old Kurhaus ;—Yier Jahreszeiten ;— 
Europaischer Ilof, near the Kursaal. 
On the l. bank of the Lahn, H. Gutem- 
berg, in a pleasant garden, good and 
quiet; — Kurhaus, government esta¬ 
blishment, fixed tariff : one - third 
cheaper from Sept. 1 to June 15. 

Tables-d'hote at 1 in all the hotels, 
and in the Kurhaus, about 1^ fl.; also 
at 4 or 5 p.m., chiefly for the English, 

2 fl. 25 kr. 






512 


ROUTE 95.— EMS. KURSAAL. SPRINGS. Sect. VIII* 


Lodging-houses : Mainzer Haus, on 
the 1. bank of the Lahn, quiet ;— 
Pariser Hof;—Prince of Wales ;—Der 
Panorama, good, on the S. side of the 
river, and therefore preferable in hot 
weather ;—H. Langenau, very good; 
pension and bed, 4s. a day; — Burg 
Gutenfels;—Herzog v. Leuchtenberg. 
The houses on the 1. bank of the Lahn 
are cheaper and quieter than those on 
the rt. 

The watering-place (§ 41) Eins is 
very prettily situated on the banks of 
the Lahn, the older part hemmed in be¬ 
tween it and the cliffs of the Baderlei, 
and a more modern and airy quarter 
spreading out over the open ground on 
the 1. bank. It is neither town nor vil¬ 
lage, but a collection of lodging-houses 
with the Kurliaus in the midst. In 
front of them runs the high road, and 
between it and the river a long narrow 
strip of garden, forming a sort of ter¬ 
race by the river-side, and serving as a 
promenade for the guests. A hand 
plays here during the season from 7 
to 8^ a.m., and from 6 to 8 p.m., when 
the guests digest their potations of spa- 
water. Six o’clock in the afternoon is 
the hour at which Ems appears in full 
glory : ail the world is then abroad, 
the promenade is crowded with visitors 
of all nations, and some of the highest 
rank, in the gayest costume. Those 
who are ambitious to extend their walks 
beyond this, unless they confine them¬ 
selves to the borders of the beautiful 
Lahn, must begin immediately to as¬ 
cend, so near at hand are the hills. 

Along both sides of the river, 
squadrons of donkeys are posted with 
their drivers. By their assistance every 
visitor has the means of scaling the 
heights, and of exploring the beauti¬ 
ful scenery with which the neigh¬ 
bourhood abounds. Every donkey is 
numbered; and on fine afternoons the 
asses of reputation, strength, and 
beauty, being in great request, are 
usually engaged beforehand. The hire 
of a donkey is 40 kr. an hour. 

A printed tariff fixes the charges for 
all the usual excursions around Ems, 


whether on horses or asses, or in car¬ 
riages. 

Ems is hot in summer, from being 
so shut in with hills; hut the woods 
around afford shade, and in a quarter 
of an hour the tops of the hills may 
he scaled, whence the rambler may en¬ 
joy the purest breezes and the most 
expanded views over the Bheinland. 
The rich woods which cover the sides 
of the vale of the Lahn, and the ver¬ 
dant pastures which form its hanks, 
give Ems a more pleasing aspect than 
Schwalhach, which is surrounded by 
naked round-hacked hills, with few 
trees upon them. 

The principal building is the very 
handsome Kursaal , at the side of the 
Lahn: it contains a cafe; gambling- 
rooms, provided with hazard-tables, 
open from 11 a.m. to 11 p.m.; and a 
ball-room, supported on marble co¬ 
lumns, in which weekly balls are 
given. It is open at all times, gra¬ 
tuitously to strangers. Within it is a 
Theatre where French plays are acted. 
Also Concerts of first-rate music. 

Immediately under the Old Kur¬ 
il aus rise 2 of the principal Springs , 
the waters of which are used for drink¬ 
ing, and likewise supply the baths. 
The chief source is the Kesselbrunnen 
(116° Fahr.) and the Krdnchen , and 
within a space railed off around stand 
young girls (Brunnen Madchen) to 
distribute the water to the drinkers. 

An elegant open hall connects this 
building with the Kursaal. During 
the season it is occupied by itinerant 
shopkeepers from all parts of the Con¬ 
tinent, who here display their wares in 
a sort of bazaar. 

In the lower story of the Kurhaus 
are Baths —prices : 1 fl. to 1 fl. 30 kr. for 
the better class. Douche Baths (i. e. a 
stream of water descending from a 
height upon some part of the body), 
48 kr. Tickets for a certain number 
of baths are purchased beforehand. 
The Badmeister, fixes the hour for 
taking them, which should be punc¬ 
tually kept, or the bather may lose 
his turn. 




NctsM. Route 9o.—EMS. 

The most comfortable Baths are 
those in the Nassauer Hof , in the 
Neue Badhaus on the 1. bank of the 
Lahn, erected 1854, connected with 
the walks on the other side by a co¬ 
vered Suspension Bridge. The build¬ 
ing forms 2 quadrangles, the courts 
being gardens. The water is pumped 
up by steam from 2 mineral springs 
rising within the building. 

The waters of Ems were known as 
early as the time of the Romans, who 
called the place Embasis. They are 
warm, and are furnished by 2 springs, 
having respectively a temperature of 
23° and 37° Reaumur. They are 
agreeable to the palate and easy of 
digestion. The springs rise out of the 
grauwacke rock, which forms the sub¬ 
stratum of the surrounding hill. 

The waters are taken in the morning 
before breakfast, and after dinner. 
From 3 to 6 goblets in the early part 
of the day, and 1 or 2 in the afternoon, 
are the usual allowance. 

Nearly everybody, high or low, dines 
here at the table-d’hote; the dinner 
hour is 1 o’clock; after which the com¬ 
pany adjourn and take coffee on the 
walks, listening to the music, or amus¬ 
ing themselves in walking or riding. 
There is music for 1 h. morning and 
evening—the time varies according to 
the season. 

Ems seems essentially a ladies’ 
watering-place: it is much frequented 
by the fair sex, and its waters are 
considered peculiarly efficacious in 
the complaints of females. It is on 
the whole a quiet place, but dear. 

The society at Ems is usually more 
select than that at Schwalbach, Wies¬ 
baden, or Baden-Baden. The season 
begins in May, and is generally over 
by the middle of September. The 
number of visitors in the season a- 
mounts to 8000: in 1823 there were 
only 1200. Ems has 4500 permanent 
Inhab. 

Physicians. —Dr. Soest, who speaks 
English, comes over from Coblenz to 
Ems 2 days in every week to see pa¬ 
tients. (§ 41.) Dr. Geisse, who also 


Rates. Excursions. 51$ 

speaks English; Dr. Yogler, and Dr. 
Busch, reside here. 

The English Ch. Service on Sunday 
11 a.m. and 6 p.m. in the English 
Church, 1. bank of the Lahn. 

The walks over and among the hills 
near Ems, for instance, up the Ba- 
derlei, to the Schweitzer Hans (a plea¬ 
sant Cafe, commanding, fine views), to 
the Forsthaus, to the Lindenbach Valley , 
by the silver-smelting furnace, to the 
ruined castle of Sporkenburg , to Balduin- 
stein , and in general up and down the 
Lahn, are very agreeable, and afford 
many unrivalled prospects. For short 
walks , you may choose the Marien- 
Weg, on the further side of the Lahn, 
or the Henrietten- Weg, and Mooshut , 
overlooking Ems, whence there is a fine 
view. 

Kemmenau is a fine point of view at 
the top of the mountain behind Ems. 
The Roman rampart called Pfahlgraben 
(see Index) passes along the crest 
of the hills above Kemmenau, and, 
descending into the valley of the Lahn, 
crosses that river near Ems, and pro¬ 
ceeds towards Heinrichshof. 

Braubach , and the Castle of Marks - 
burg , on the Rhine, distant about 7 m., 
will form a pleasant day’s excursion. 
(See Rte. 38.) The carriage-road runs 
past the Forsthaus; a footpath at the 
back of Heinrichshof leads through the 
wood to Becheln. Braubach is also 
accessible by the Lahn Railway. 

By means of the same Lahn Valley 
Railway, visits may be made to the 
castles of Nassau and Stein, 6 m. higher 
up the Lahn valley, on the high road 
to Limburg, another particularly agree¬ 
able excursion. These mins serve 
as the rendezvous of many a picnic 
party. The Convent of Amstein, and 
the Chapel of Winden, both command¬ 
ing beautiful views, and only 3 m. 
above Nassau, may be visited on the 
same day from Ems. (See Rte. 96.) 

After leaving Ems on the way to 
Nassau, the road passes the old walled 

z 3 






M t 


UOtU'K 95.— S \SiUtf. 


Sect. vttt. 


t-own of IV-.- cu.m, behind which whs 

fvVU'Ut'l h'Uvhng Up tlu> lUvine Mid 

own the hills tv' hum, de^wnduig at 

0-,s' hark of the Kuvh.uts, commanding 

duo \ io" l'ho high road follows the 

v Hiding-* of the 1 aim through u beau 

tlt\ll XAlU'N <IS tW US 
\ ^ 

S Krone In rlv. 

5 in hem Kins V chain bridge has l*een 
cim '.cd Vievoet lHv' l aim, on the 1 bank 
Ilf "hlv'h ta-*'\'t the old and piv'tUlVSvplC 
k v. . \ v-,\\5 , the cradle (Stamm- 

sehUvsa* of the families of Na>xm and 
O' ;ug\' It was built I'V a Ov'lint of 
l ouiviihurg m UvH. In the loth 
Cent, the tV.'.v- \ sb. v isU'sl intv' 

beam hes, tVv'in ibv' elder of which 
.springs ibv' present Duke of N.mvtu, 
V bits' tho younger is represented b\ till' 

Iv.ngOt tlv'lkiud Hi S' vMStll' -.(.lUvU I'll 

the summit i't' a conical rock, mill n 

lulls' ts'Wv'l do" U in till' h'SS I'Vtv'UMU' 

itun s't' tin' tVu s's<;(ho baronial 
>s\!it v".' a notIts". \i". \ ancient familv, 
whs' b,;l\s' hs'tst for MH' vours tlunr 
estates tusl v'sistto on ttio Kinks of the 
l abu.-ma hot tVsun ttio Kmperor of Urn 

Ul.ttty I lls' UU'vls'l ll s' isU.s' , MtlUltOll 

Ills' ' ' It till by , is also shew n 

tv' strangers, mtsl contains ancient 
.ll liU'U' . ttephh'S of tils' "ll, Slid Otllv'l 
S"..' lOsNUSi'.s Stout IS UOW tho propei'l' 
.-s'- K non in-law 

tits' enlightened .nut patriotic Prussian 
" inn \ .'."s'ls's-n contempt u ■ 
v'lists sis'llHilts'll " I n uonuno Stem.” 
Ho listvl ttio ntovit of introducing mtv' 
(In' l\tisM.o.i gov eminent those re- 
fv'inis wttioh tins' s's'iit*.ibiitoil largely 
(s' miss' « hit oountiN to its present 
. mint sis". \ Stem, til,' 
s t-i mots' of his (.unity, i.s but toil at 
tho ' ' s'f l i Uotlt, o m. b W. of 
KtttsS 

ViWsiblo stmt IMS' paths h;iM' bs's'ii 

out through tho " v'v'vts leading tv' mul 
iti\'uitil tin's'll' mins. t'ho \ io" s tVv'in 
(liom, sunt fiv'iu tho Oethio tv'wov oivotovl 
by tin' haven \on Stein v'u si command¬ 
ing point, are is pleasing ws tho ruins 
thv'Umot'OS HIV V'lv tUVOSvpie. Strangers 
noi'sY ' ov" uiittv'vl tv' roam about siinl 
enjoy themselves in these grounds lu 

ms'll, ,t vi.iy sis'M'lv'st (O .1 Mm, tv’ Nassau 


1 tVv'm Kins'* will assuredly not be con- 

ssivlorod mis'wpent. 

Tlunv u* a vory agreeable walk from 
Niiss.m to Ktus up tho valley of Diene- 
thal, and by Sulibaoh, on the S. aido 
of the Kahn. 

The beauties of the Kahn valley 
ov'ittiuuo umvat'da beyond Arnatoin 
(si m.) and Kituburg (lite. 00), along 
banks dtHH'iated with pietureaquo 
oasthsS in vuins, and amihng indua- 
tnv'us villages. 

Sinoo the opening of tho lily, along 
tho it. bank of the Rhine (lite. 08), 
tiiivoUoisS go to Sohlangonhail and 
Sohwalbaoh from Kltville Stat, (omni¬ 
bus or oarriago), or from Wiesbaden 
(omnibus or carriage), 1‘ublio oon- 
voyaneos (hun Nassau to Sohwalbaoh 
have eeaaed to run, Trivtllen oan 
pv'Nt tVv'm Kms lily. Diet a Stat. higher 
up the Kahn Valley, whence dili- 
gvnoi's run tv> Sehualbaoh and AVies- 
oadon in summer. (Kto. 00.) 

beyond Nassau the post-road to 
Sohwalbaoh ascends a stoop hill, and 
quits the Kahn. The view from tho 
height, looking down upon it and its 
castles, is most beautiful; but after that, 
adieu to picturesque scenes. The road 
passes over a bleak tract of high land, 
very scantily peopled, the villages and 
habitations in general being snugly 
nestled in the narrow and steep ravines 
\\ hh'h intersect in all directions this 
upper country. There is some lino 
wooded country near 

'2 Siughofon. 

t^ Uv'lahausv'ii. About 25 ni. from 
Kms lies 

2 l(.Mfr*n~$ebw<iibaQh s —Innst II. du 
Due do Nassau, clean and good ; tahlo- 
d’hote at II and 5. Alice Saal (H. du 
lhvmenado); table-d’hote at 1 ; at. 
times the rvH'ius servo tv'r dancing—in 
hut, biH'ome the Assembly-rooms, ll. 
des I’v'stes, well managed. 

I v'vf/ta(/-Aoa v st\'f«—There are several 
gv'ovl lodging-houses, where, however, 
there are no tables-d’hote ; but visitors 
can be pro\ ided w ith breakfast and tea, 
ami have their dinners sent in to them 
twin one ot the hotels, Those of 







Nassau. 


ROUTE 9o. —SCHWALBACH. SPRINGS. 


515 


Mesdames Conradi and Roller possess 
ad vantages which English, will appre¬ 
ciate in Lodgings. 

Travellers should, whether they re¬ 
side in the hotels or lodging-houses, 
arrange beforehand as to the charges. 

Jtea/linsj-room and Newspapers in the 

Alice Baal. 

Langen- Schwalbach (in English, 
B wallows' -brook), though elevated to 
the dignity of a town (Pop. 1800), has 
still the ap]>earance of a long straggling 
vilage. All the considerable buildings 
are inns or Lodging-houses. It has been 
for centuries frequented by Germans; 
but until the appearance of the ‘ Rub¬ 
bles from the Ilrunnen ’ our country¬ 
men had passed through it year after 
year without taking any notice of it 

In order to enter into the spirit of 
the Brunnen of Nassau, no visitor can 
dispense with the 4 Bubbles;' he must 
take the book in his hand. Travellers 
are referred to it for all general de¬ 
scriptions. 

Bchwalbach has the advantage over 
Pirns and Wiesbaden of being more free 
from bustle and formal restraint, which, 
with those in search of quiet and retire¬ 
ment, will gain for it the preference 
over these 2 watering-places. The 
season is usually over by the end 
of August; it begins in june. The 
winter and spring are cold, and full 3 
weeks Later than at Wiesbaden and in 
the Rheingau. 

The town is appropriately called 
Long Schwalbach, from the arrange¬ 
ment of its houses in one extended line 
f m. It contains a Rom. Cath. and 2 
Protestant Churches, and a Synagogue 
for the Jews. Near the upper end of 
its long street are situated the principal 
Hotels, the Promenades, the Wells 
(Jirunnen), and the Bath-house (Bad- 
baus) 

The sjjriryjs, which supply water for 
drinking as well as bathing, are — 
1. The Weinhrvmnen, so named from 
some fancied resemblance to wine in 
its taste; and, 2. The Stahlbruimen : 
both of these contain iron and car¬ 
bonic acid gas in slightly varying pro¬ 
portions ; but the Weinbrunnen is 


more largely impregnated with iron 
than the Stahl (steel) Brunnen.—3. 
The Pauline is now little used. 

The Badhaus is supported by an 
open colonnade, which serves as a 
walk in wet weather, and as a shelter 
for a great many itinerant traders, 
who set up their stalls here in the 
season. 

The baths are much in request, 
and during the height of the season 
are occupied from 6 in the morning 
till 1 p. m. Every hour of the day 
is bespoken beforehand, and allotted 
to some one or other, whose name 
is entered in a book opposite to the 
hour. Those who are not punctual 
to their time run the risk of losing 
their turn. The baths are filled from 
the Stahl and Weinbrunnen, the waters 
being previously heated artificially. 
The price of a single bath is 1 ih 
The qualities of the water are 
bracing and strengthening in a high 
degree. 

The diurnal proceedings of the vi¬ 
sitors at the baths are nearly as follows: 
they rise as early as 6, and resort to 
the wells to drink their allotted po¬ 
tions, keeping themselves in constant 
motion backwards and forwards be¬ 
tween every glass. After 2 or 3 hrs. 
of this exercise, they have fairly 
earned their breakfasts. The busi¬ 
ness of the bath will occupy an hour 
of the forenoon; and before dinner 
another course of water is usually 
prescribed. 

A good Band of Music plays in the 
gardens near the springs early in the 
morning and from 7 to 8 p.m. Visitors 
staying over 8 days contribute 1-2 
th., for a family 3-6 th. 

The dinner-bell sounds at 1, and 
the irksome table-d’hote is rarely 
over in less than an hour and a 
half: when it is concluded, the Ger¬ 
mans usually allow themselves a short 
time to ruminate, to drink their coffee, 
and to smoke their pipes. At this 
time of day the donkeys, the slaves of 
the visitors at the baths, whose lives 
are spent in carrying, are to be seen in 
long array, ready to be engaged. The 





16 


ROUTE 95. —SCHWALBACH. EXCURSIONS. Sect. VIII. 


charges for horses, asses, and carriages 
are fixed by tariff, according to the 
length of the excursions. Donkeys, 
inferior to those at Ems, 36 kr. the 
hour. At 6 o’clock the ceremony of 
drinking the waters begins again. 

The description given of these baths 
in the ‘ Bubbles,’ although very amusing 
and no doubt correct at the time, is no 
longer applicable in all respects. It is 
much to be regretted that some efforts are 
not made by the inhabitants to improve 
the drainage of the town, which is most 
imperfect, and at times most offensive. 

On Sundays the English Service is 
performed in the upper Protestant 
ch. in the Lange Gasse, at 11 a. m. 
and 5 p.m. There is a half-built Eng¬ 
lish ch., begun with funds left by an 
American lady. 

The steep round-hacked hills which 
liem in the town of Schwalbach and 
its Brunnen are intersected in all di¬ 
rections with paths. From the summit 
of the heights a number of pleasing 
views are obtained. One of the most 
interesting is that from the little rustic 
wooden pavilion which stands on the 
top of the hill, by the side of the road 
leading from Schwalbach to Wies¬ 
baden. This agreeable “ pointe de 
vue” is not much more than 20 min. 
walk from the Pauline, and those 
who fear to face the hill on foot 
may make the ascent on the back of a 
donkey. 

About -3 an hour’s walk from Schwal¬ 
bach is Adolphseck , a ruined castle, said 
to have been built by Count Adolph 
of Nassau, before he became Emperor, 
as a residence for a fair lady, his fa¬ 
vourite. 

The excursion, however, which sur¬ 
passes all others around Schwalbach, 
is that to the Castle of Ilohenstein. 
The visitor may take either the excel¬ 
lent carriage-road leading to it, or 
follow the windings of the little stream 
called the Aar, on foot or upon donkeys, 
passing first the castle of Adolphseck, 
and then threading the valley down¬ 
wards for a distance of 6 m. Its great 
charm is the variety of scenes it un¬ 


folds, its changes at every turn; at 
times expanding into broad meadows, 
then contracting to a narrow strait with 
overhanging masses of rock on both 
sides. At last the grand old castle of 
Ilohenstein appears in sight, in a very 
romantic situation, perched on the sum¬ 
mit of a high black precipice, and 
forming a termination of the vista. 
This imposing feudal stronghold of the 
Counts of Katzenelnbogen was taken 
and sacked in the Thirty Years’ War, 
and is now totally dismantled, though 
some precautions have been taken to 
preserve it from further decay. A 
village composed of a few poor cottages 
crouches at the foot of the rock; and 
a small Inn will furnish the traveller 
with a dish of trout or crawfish from 
the Wiedenbach brook, or a bottle of 
sour wine, if needed ; hut it is well to 
take provisions with you. 

There are many other old castles 
among the valleys of the Taunus, each 
of which may he made the object of a 
day’s excursion, particularly those of 
Katzenelnbogen (Cat’s Elbow), built 
by the Counts of that name, who an¬ 
ciently possessed the country between 
the Ehine and the Lahn ; it is situated 
in a wild and solitary district, Burg 
Schwalbach, and Arteck. Pleasing 
excursions are, 1 . to Frankfurt by 
Neuhof, Idstein, Esch, and Konigstein 
(Etc. 97); 2 . to Dietz Stat. on the 
Lahn Eailway, and Limburg (Ete. 96), 
by Holzhausen; 3. down the Wisperthal 
to Lorch on the Ehine (Etc. 38)—a 
tolerable carriage road, 21 m. 

Nieder-Selters, the spring which pro¬ 
duces the far-famed Seltzer water, may 
he visited from Schwalbach, hut it is 
a long day’s journey, by cross-roads, 
which even in the best season are very 
rugged. The spring itself is situated 
on the high post-road leading from 
Limburg to Frankfurt, and it is of 
course most easily accessible in that 
direction. The admirable description 
of the author of the ‘ Bubbles ’ will 
probably afford more gratification than 
even a visit to the spot. The road 
which he took led him past the Eisen - 



Nassau. '■ fcOUTE 95 .—schlahgenbad. bates. '5i 1 


hammer , an immense hammer, lifted 
by a water-wheel, which forges iron 
by its fall (one of the lions generally 
visited by the water-drinkers of Schwal- 
bach), through the villages of Neuhof 
and W urges, both of which are post- 
stations, where fresh horses may be 
had, to the spring of Selters, situated 
about £ m. from the village of Sel- 
ters, which is also a post-station, and 
provided with a small inn. About a 
million and a half of bottles are ex¬ 
ported annually, and the quantity is 
increasing. 

Instead of returning to Schwalbach 
by the same road which brought him, 
the traveller may make an agreeable 
variation by descending the valley of 
the Lahn by rail to Nassau or Ems. 
(See Ete. 96.) 

Diligences to Dietz Stat. (Ete. 96), to 
Schlangenbad and Eltville Stat., on the 
rly. to Eudesheim and Coblenz; and 
to Wiesbaden, daily in summer. 

[A capital macadamised road(diligence 
daily in summer), but very hilly, leads 
from Schwalbach to 

. Schlangenbad (about 4 m.), another 
Erunnen of Nassau (Inns: Nassauer 
Hof; H. Victoria; H. Planz, com¬ 
fortable), in a delightful though re¬ 
tired situation, almost buried amongst 
wooded hills. It is neither a town 
nor village, but consists of a group 
of lodging-houses. Two of these enor¬ 
mous buildings, resembling cotton-mills 
in their size and number of win¬ 
dows, called the Old and New Badhaus, 
furnish accommodation for visitors. 
The price of each room, marked on the 
door, varies from 36 kr. to 3 or 4 fl. 
daily. Table-d’hote, at 1, costs 1 fl., 
and, for 1 fl. 45 kr., the same dinner is 
served in private. The Eauenthaler 
wine is good here. 

It is generally necessary to bespeak 
rooms by letter beforehand, from the 
Eadmeister, an officer appointed by the 
Duke of Nassau, who has the charge of 
both houses. 

This place receives its name of 
Schlangenbad (Serpent’s Eath) from 


the great number of snakes and vipers, 
as well as the harmless kind, which not 
only abound in the neighbourhood, but 
even haunt the springs themselves, for 
the sake of the warmth yielded by 
the water, or for the frogs, the food 
of the viper. Though in a wooded 
valley, it lies high, and is constantly 
refreshed by cooling breezes, even in 
the midst of summer. 

The Baths are situated in the ground 
floor of the Old and New Badhaus , and 
have a somewhat dark and gloomy air. 
The temperature of the water is only 
80° Fahrenheit, so that it needs to be 
heated for bathing. 

The sequestered little valley of 
Schlangenbad affords more complete 
retirement than any of the baths of 
Nassau. It is annually visited by 
about 800 guests, including many 
princes and persons of distinction from 
all parts of Germany and Eussia. 

The best Baths are to be had at the 
New Bathhouse , erected 1868 ; 20 S. gr. 
Elsewhere a bath costs 15 S. gr. 

“ The baths of Schlangenbad are the 
most harmless and delicious luxuries of 
the sort I have ever enjoyed; and I 
really quite looked forward to the 
morning for the pleasure with which 
I paid my addresses to this delightful 
element. The effect it produces on the 
skin is very singular: it is. about as 
warm as milk, but infinitely softer: 
and after dipping the hand into it, if 
the thumb be rubbed against the fin¬ 
gers, it is said by many to resemble 
satin. I must say that I never remem¬ 
ber to have existed in a place which 
possessed such fascinating beauties ; be¬ 
sides which (to say nothing of breathing 
pure dry air), it is no small pleasure to 
live in a skin which puts all people in 
good humour—at least with themselves. 
Eut besides the cosmetic charms of this 
water it is declared to possess virtues 
of more substantial value: it is said to 
tranquillize the nerves, to soothe all in¬ 
flammation; and from this latter pro¬ 
perty the cures of consumption which 
are reported to have been effected, 




518 

among human beings and cattle, may 
have proceeded. 

“ The effect produced upon the skin 
by lying about 20 minutes in the bath 
I one day happened to overhear a 
short fat Frenchman describe to his 
friend in the following words:— 

‘ Monsieur , dans ces bains on devient 
absolument amoureux de soi-meme /’ I 
cannot exactly corroborate this Gallic 
statement, yet I must admit that 
limbs, even old ones, gradually do 
appear as if they were converted into 
white marble. 

“ The Schlangenhad water contains 
the muriates and carbonates of lime, 
soda, and magnesia, with a slight excess 
of carbonic acid, which holds the car¬ 
bonates in solution. The celebrated 
embellishment which it produces on 
the skin is, in my opinion, a sort of 
corrosion, which removes tan, or any 
other artificial covering that the sur¬ 
face may have attained from exposure 
and ill-treatment by the sun and wind. 
In short, the body is cleaned by it, just 
as a kitchen-maid scours her copper 
saucepan.”— Bubbles. 

Schlangenhad is a “ ladies’ bath/’ 
It has a wonderful effect in calming 
the mind, invigorating the limbs* and 
smoothing wrinkles from the skin. 
The invalid who has imbibed in his 
skin the ferruginous particles of the 
Schwalbach water, usually repairs hither 
afterwards, in order to wash away the 
rust by a course of bathing at the Ser¬ 
pent’s Spring. There is nothing extra¬ 
ordinary in the mineral contents of these 
waters which would enable chemists to 
account for their virtue; it probably 
proceeds from some peculiar admix¬ 
ture derived from the chemistry of 
nature, which at present art is unable 
to explain, and equally incapable of 
imitating. 

Tradition relates that the spring was 
discovered some hundred years ago 
by a sick heifer, who every day sepa¬ 
rated herself from the herd to drink of 
it. The herdsman, surprised both at 
the periodical absence of the animal, 
and at the improvement in her con¬ 
dition, traced her foosteps one day, 
until he discovered her drinking at the 


Sect. VIII. 

warm spring, which now affords the 
same relief to human invalids which 
it did in the first instance to the quad¬ 
ruped. 

The chief Promenade is the Terrace. 

Schlangenhad is provided neither 
with a gaming-table nor a ball-room ; 
those who seek such amusements must 
repair to Schwalbach or Wiesbaden. 
A band of music plays on the walks, 
to enliven the daily promenade of the 
water-drinkers; but the chief attractions 
of the place are the more natural and 
secluded walks among the woods and 
hills of the neighbourhood. Donkeys 
are the favourite means of conveyance, 
for gentlemen as well as ladies, here 
as elsewhere, among the baths of the 
Taunus. 

English Church Service , during the 
season, at 5 p.m. in a chapel. 

Schlangenhad is situated within a 
few miles of some of the most beautiful 
scenery of the Rhine, overlooked for 
the most part by the great herd of tra¬ 
vellers, who content themselves with 
steaming up and down the river. 
Within the distance of a day’s excur¬ 
sion are situated the following inter¬ 
esting spots:— 

1. Georgenbom , a village on the car¬ 
riage-road to Wiesbaden, 1152 ft. above 
the sea-level, which commands a beau¬ 
tiful prospect over the Rhine and the 
Main; and Frauenstein , a small hamlet* 
with an old castle, and a very ancient 
and large lime tree. 

2. The Monastery of Eberbach , in a 
highly picturesque situation, at the 
bottom of a wooded dell, described Itte. 
38. In the way to it the stranger 
will pass Rauenthel, a small village, 
with famous vineyards in its neigh¬ 
bourhood ; and the chapel of Buben- 
hausen, a magnificent point of view; 
the ruined castle of Scharfenstein 
(once a stronghold of the Arch¬ 
bishops of Mayence), and the beau¬ 
tiful Gothic chapel (1449) of Kiedrich 
(llte. 38). 

Eberbach was founded in 1131, by 
St. Bernard, the preacher of the Cm- 


ROUTE 95.—SCHLANGENBAD. BATHS. 




frassati. route 95.—eberbach. wiesbaden. 5i§ 


sadcs. While he rambled about in 
doubt where to fix his holy establish¬ 
ment, a boar issuing out of a thicket 
indicated with his snout the spot upon 
which the church was afterwards 
reared. The monks of St. Bernard 
were famed for their riches and hospi¬ 
tality ;—the order possessed in the 
Iiheingau, and within a space of 3 
leagues, no less than 6 convents — 
Zufenthal, Eberbach, Gottcsthal, Ei- 
bingen, Nothgottes, and Marienhau- 
sen; they were besides the owners of 
the Steinberg vineyard, and used to 
export its produce in vessels of their 
own down the Rhine to Cologne. 
The vineyards, the wines, and the con¬ 
vent, with its estate and cellars, be¬ 
longed until 1866 to the Duke of 
Nassau. The cellars were stored with 
the most precious wines : some sorts 
selling on the spot for 7, 9, or 11 florins 
the bottle, and even higher. The Ch. 
is an interesting Romanesque edifice, 
date 1186. Many monuments of the 
abbots, also of Archbp. Gerlart (1371), 
and of Adolph II. Count of Nassau 
(1474). The convent has been long 
converted into a penitentiary and pri¬ 
son. The Swedish minister and gene* 
ral, Oxenstiemaj took up his winter 
quarters in the convent, 1631. 

The view from the height called 
the JlosS) near the convent, is one of 
the finest in the Rheingau. Imme¬ 
diately below it is the famed Steinberg 
vineyard. 

3 . To the castle and vineyard of 
Johannisberg, and the Niederwald, 
described in Rte. 38. The carriage- 
road lies along the highway to May- 
ence, as far as the village of Neu- 
dorf, where it turns to the rt., and 
follows for a couple of miles a lane 
leading to 

Fltville Stat., on the railroad, along 
the rt. bank of the Rhine, to Rudesheim 
(Rte. 3*). There is a bridle-road direct 
from Schlangenbad to Eberbach and the 
Niederwald, through the woods; but a 
guide would be necessary to find it 
out.] 


Road from Schwalbach to Frankfurt. 

Eilwagen daily to Wiesbaden. 

The post-road, on quitting Schwal¬ 
bach, at once begins to ascend. The 
way to Schlangenbad and Mayence 
turns down a valley to the rt. before 
you surmount the hill called Hoke 
Wurzel, from whose top there is a very 
remarkable prospect, stretching over the 
Rhine and Main, with Mayence in the 
middle distance, and the Bergstrasse in 
the background. On the 1. is seen the 
village of Klarenthal , with its ci-devant 
convent, and further in the distance the 
Platte , a hunting-seat of the Duke’s : 
both favourite points of excursions for 
the inhabitants of Wiesbaden. 

2~ Wiesbaden has been justly called 
“ a city of lodging-houses,” almost 
every building being appropriated either 
to the reception or entertainment of 
visitors. Inns : 1st Class : H. Vic¬ 
toria; Taunus Hotel, both near the 
Stat.,; H. des Quatre Saisons, grand 
and dear; H. de Nassau, comfort¬ 
able, quiet, and respectable, well situ¬ 
ated in the great square ; *Rose, 
reasonable, clean, and quiet, near the 
Kursaal,—baths in the house; Black 
Bear, baths, good* 

2nd Class —H. de France; Griinei- 
wald. 

In the Lodging-houses meals are not 
provided ; but there are restaurateurs 
in the town who will send in dinners; 
Englischer Hof has baths in the 
house ; Exiropaischer Hof; Romerbad. 
Charges vary according to the sea¬ 
son ; Jlily and August being the dearest 
months. 

Reading-room , in the Kursaal, Well 
furnished with English and American 
newspapers. 

Wiesbaden once capital of the Duchy 
of Nassau, since 1866 absorbed in the 
dominions of Prussia, and centre of a 
circle of which Frankfurt is only 
a subordinate member, has 32,000 
Inhab., 9000 R. Catholics. It is in¬ 
debted for its present prosperity to 
the celebrity of its baths and mineral 




5^0 ROUTE 95. —WIESBAUeN. 

waters. (§ 41.) The number of visit¬ 
ors attracted to this spot in search 
of health and pleasure amounts to 
30,000 annually. Wiesbaden has a 
“ season” of longer duration than most 
of the other baths, and is almost always 
full from June to September, and even 
later, if the autumn prove fine. 

A handsome wide street, the Wil- 
helmstrasse, ^ m. long, lined with 
rows of trees, leads from the Illy, stat., 
along the E. side of the town, to the 
Theater Platz and the Kursaal. 

The most remarkable edifice is the 
Kursaal , occupying the E. side of a 
square, the N. and S. sides of which 
are lined by colonnades filled with gay 
shops, serving as a promenade in wet 
weather and as a sort of bazaar during 
the whole of the season. Opposite the 
Kursaal, in one corner of the square, 
is the theatre, in the other the huge 
hotel of the Yier Jahreszeiten. 

The Kursaal serves the purpose of 
ball, reading, and gaming room, and 
forms the centre of attraction and 
gaiety. It consists of a very splendid 
saloon of large dimensions, surrounded 
by pillars of Limburg marble. On 
Sunday the Kursaal is numerously 
attended. On Saturday it is open for 
dancing; tickets are required. On 
Friday concerts of excellent music are 
given. 

On the rt. hand of the salle are the 
gambling-rooms, where gaming is car¬ 
ried on almost from morning to night. 
A joint-stock company pays 50,000 fl. 
yearly rent for the privilege of opening 
gaming tables. Their annual outlay 
amounts to 800,000 fl., but they have 
paid a dividend of 30 to 40 per cent, 
for some years; good evidence of the 
amount which the public must lose— 
said to amount to 275,000 fl. per annum 
on an average !! On the 1. are supper- 
rooms, which are usually fully occupied 
in the evening. Supper is served a la 
carte. 

When dinner is over every one be¬ 
takes himself to the garden behind the 
Kursaal, to sip coffee or ices. Tables 
are placed out in the open air, within 
hearing of a band of music, which 
always plays on these occasions; and 


KURSAAL. SPRINGS. Sect. VIll. 

while the gentlemen indulge in a pipe, 
the ladies, in the homely and industrious 
fashion of Germany, generally occupy 
themselves by knitting while they chat. 
At such times the space behind the Kur¬ 
saal is so completely filled with com¬ 
pany, and the tables are so crowded 
together, that there is barely room to 
pass ; high and low are promiscuously 
mingled together, and the whole forms 
the most pleasing and characteristic 
‘scene of “ Wiesbaden Life.” 

The hours of drinking the waters 
are from 6 to 8 in the morning, and 
again partially in the evening about 6 
or 7. A short interval is allowed to 
elapse between the morning draught 
and the bath. 

The Trinkhalle , a sort of arcade of 
iron and glass, connects the Kur 
Garden with the principal spring, 
the Kochbrunncn (boiling spring). It 
has all the appearance of a caldron in 
violent ebullition, and its temperature 
is 56° of Reaumur, equal to 156° of 
Fahrenheit. Its waters are used both 
for drinking and to supply the principal 
baths in the town; but so copious is the 
source that after all this consumption a 
vast quantity runs over and escapes 
through the gutters and drains. A 
stranger is astonished at first, as he 
walks along the streets, to perceive 
clouds of vapour arising on all sides 
out of the ground. This may be sup¬ 
posed to add somewhat to the warmth 
of the place in summer : if other places 
are hot, Wiesbaden may be said to be 
boiling hot. There are 13 other springs 
in the town, all of a high temperature. 
The spring next in heat and volume is 
that rising in the garden of the Adler 
hotel (48° Reaumur). 

The water-drinkers repair to the well 
at 5 or 6 o’clock a.m., and, receiving 
their portion scalding hot, walk about, 
glass in hand, until it is cool enough to 
be drunk. In taste it has been com¬ 
pared to chicken broth, but it is more 
like boiled sea-water. By 8 o’clock 
the promenade is usually cleared, and 
the business of bathing begins. The 
water in the bath is covered with a 
greasy film or scum, which collects on 
the surface while cooling : and which, 



ROUTE 95. —WIESBADEN. BFAHLGRABEN. 


Nassau. 

however uninviting it may appear, is 
the test of its being quite fresh, and not 
having been used before. After the 
ceremony of the bath, the doctors allow 
their patients to take their breakfast, 
which they have thus inamannerearned. 


The hot springs and their medicinal 
properties were well known to the 
Romans, who called them Fontes Mat - 
tiaci. Pliny the naturalist says of 
them, that they retain their heat for the 
space of 3 days :—“ Sunt et Mattiaci 
in Germania fontes calidi quorum 
haustus triduo fervet.”— Nat. Hist. lib. 
31. c. 2. 

The waste waters from the springs, 
retaining for a length of time a warm 
temperature, are carri ed off to the Rhine, 
where they not only never freeze, 
but, by their warmth, even ] reserve 
that part of the river where the y enter 
free from ice. They serve as a nursery 
or stew for carp, which, fostered by the 
heat, grow to an enormous size in them. 
They deposit a copious calcareous sedi¬ 
ment or stalactite, which would in a 
short time choke up the pipes and 
channels in which they are carried 
through the town, were they not regu¬ 
larly cleared out. 

The Romans established a station 
here—they built a fort or castle on the 
hill to the N.W. of the town, still 
known as the Romerberg , which was 
for a long time garrisoned by the 22nd 
Legion, as is proved by inscriptions on 
stones and stamps upon the tiles found 
near the spot. In the 3rd cent, the 
barbarian Germans attacked and de¬ 
stroyed the Roman fortresses on the 
rt. bank of the Rhine, and Wiesbaden 
shared the fate of the rest. Ashes and 
calcined bones still dug up on the 
Romerberg attest its ruin. In after 
times Charlemagne used constantly to 
repair hither from his favourite resi¬ 
dence at Ingelheim, to enjoy the baths, 
lie built himself a palace (Sala) in the 
street which still retains the name of 
Saal Gasse, though the building has dis¬ 
appeared. 


521 

In the town at the bottom of 
the Heidenberg Strasse, and behind 
the Adler hotel, is a piece of stone 
wall, 650 ft. long, 10 ft. high, and 9 ft. 
thick, called the Heidenmauer (Hea¬ 
then’s Wall). 

A few miles to the N. of Wiesbaden 
are the remains of a fortified wall, pass¬ 
ing through a great extent of country. 
It is called the Pfahlgraben. Before the 
Romans quitted the country N. of the 
Rhi ne, they ra ised this stupendous barrier 
along their frontier. It was begun, ac¬ 
cording to Tacitus, by Drusus, stepson 
of Augustus, to defend his conquest 
from the inroads of the Germans, and 
was finished by Hadrian and Caracalla. 
It resembles the Piets’ wall in England, 
but surpasses it in extent. It consists 
of a rampart from 12 to 18 ft. high, 
strengthened by towers at regular dis¬ 
tances, and with a fosse originally lined 
with palisades, whence its name. It 
commences at Neuwied on the Rhine ; 
it runs thence by Montabauer to Ems, 
across the Lahn by Miehlen, Schwal- 
bach, Wehen, Idstein, and Heftrich to 
the foot of the Feldberg, and from 
thence may be traced in a N.E. direc¬ 
tion, by Wehrheim, towards Butzbach. 
Several of the summits of the Taunus 
are crowned by forts or circular ram¬ 
parts. This wall, raised to protect the 
Mattiaci against the inroads of the Catti, 
has been supposed, but erroneously, to 
form part of the great stone wall con¬ 
structed by the Empr. Probus from the 
Danube to the Rhine, to guard the 
provinces of the empire against the 
Alemanni. (See Gibbon, ch. xii.) 

The Museum in the Schlosschen , 
Wilhelm’s Strasse, contains a very good 
Public Library of 60,000 volumes, in¬ 
cluding among the MSS. the Vision of 
St. Hildegard, on parchment, with re¬ 
markable miniatures of the 12th cent., 
and a Collection of Antiquities , chiefly 
local, or derived from the Duchy of 
Nassau. The most curious relic, per¬ 
haps, is a bas-relief found at Heddern- 
heim, near Frankfurt, representing the 
youthful god Mythras, in a Phrygian 
bonnet, in the act of sacrificing a pros¬ 
trate bull, surrounded by symbolical 







522 


ROUTE 95. —WIESBADEN - . MUSEUM. Sect. VIII. 


figures, and surmounted by the 12 signs 
of the Zodiac. The worship of Mythras 
was introduced by the Romans from 
Persia, and set up by the Pagan priest¬ 
hood in opposition to Christianity, then 
in its infancy. Here is also the bronze 
top of the standard of a cohort of the 
22nd Legion; a curiously carved altar- 
piece (25 ft. long and 9 ft. high), from the 
sequestrated abbey of Marienstadt, near 
Hachenburg, dating from the 13th cent.; 
the monuments of Diether and Eber- 
hard von Katzenelnbogen brought 
from the convent of St. Clara, and some 
painted glass. There is also a collection 
of Pictures , but few of them answer to 
the names attached to them. 

The Theatre begins at p. m. 

One of the most prominent buildings 
in the town is the Protestant Church , 
opposite the palace, of smooth brick, 
surmounted by five towers, finished 
1863. Boos, Arch. 

A handsome P. Catholic church has 
been built in the Louisen Platz, in the 
round-arched style, Hofman architect. 
See altar-piece by Steinle, the Madonna; 
by Bethel St. Boniface. 

The traveller should not fail to visit 
the superb Russo-Greek Chapel , on the 
hill called Neroberg (from a tradition 
that that emperor dwelt there), about 
1 m., 30 min. drive, from the Kursaal. 
It was raised by the Duke of Nassau, 
to contain the remains of his first wife, 
a Russian princess, and her recumbent 
effigy in marble by Hopfgarten, a touch¬ 
ing work of art. It is lined with 
costly marbles, and is surmounted by 5 
gilt cupolas. It well deserves to be 
seen. 

English Church Service is performed 
every Sunday by an English clergyman, 
at 11 a.m. and 6 p.m., in the handsome 
English Church , built by subscription, 
in the Wilhelmstrasse. It was finished 
1864 ; its material red brick and sand¬ 
stone. It cost 2500h 

Eilwagen daily to Dietz Stat. ; to 
Limburg; to Schwalbach. An omni¬ 


bus meets every Rhine steamer at 
Biberich. 

Railways to Mosbach (Biebrich) and 
Mayence ; to Frankfurt; to Riidesheim, 
Lahnstein, and Coblenz. Terminus near 
the end of the Wilhclmsstrasse. 

Wiesbaden differs from the other 
watering-places of Nassau, in being a 
regularly built town. It is also some¬ 
what noisy and bustling during the 
season, but has the same advantages 
with the rest in beauty of situation, and 
a picturesque neighbourhood, affording 
agreeable walks and rides, and the most 
complete retirement within a few hun¬ 
dred yards of its precincts. By ascend¬ 
ing any of the adjacent heights, ele¬ 
vated only a few hundred ft. above the 
town, a charming prospect is disclosed to 
view, of the Rhine and fertile Rheingau, 
in which the spires and boat-bridge of 
Mayence form a prominent object; and 
the horizon is backed on the E. by the 
Odenwald and by the Melibocus sur¬ 
mounted by its white tower; on the 
S. by the ridge of the Donnersburg or 
Mont Tonnere, in Rhenish Bavaria. From 
the Geisberg , about a mile from the town, 
this view is seen to great advantage. 

One of the pleasantest walks, and 
nearest at hand, is through the shrub¬ 
beries, which begin behind the Kur¬ 
saal, to the Dietenmixhle and ruined 
castle of Sonnenberg , a distance of 
2 m. 

A more extensive and beautiful view, 
however, is obtained from the Platte , a 
hunting-seat of the Duke of Nassau, 
about 4 m. off; an excellent carriage- 
road leads up to it. It is a plain white 
building conspicuous from all sides, 
situated on the verge of a hill 1300 ft. 
above the Rhine, overlooking the plain, 
and backed by thick woods ; within, it 
is tastefully and appropriately fitted up ; 
part of the furniture is ingeniously 
formed out of buck-horn. It is shown 
to strangers at all times. The view is 
best seen from the platform on the roof. 
The neighbouring woods abound in 
herds of deer: many of them assemble 
round the Platte in the evening to be 
fed. The pedestrian may find a short 
cut over the Geisberg, and past the 





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Nassau. 


ROUTE 95. —FRANKFURT ON THE MAIN. 


523 


weeping oak, to the Platte. The road 
is quite direct, and the pedestrian has 
only to avoid turning off either to the 
rt. or 1. into the cross-roads which occur 
at intervals. 

A little to the left of the road to 
the Platte lies the convent (now se¬ 
cularised) of Klarenthal , and the Fa- 
sanerie (Pheasantry), a shooting-box of 
the Duke’s, which also deserves a visit. 

At Biebrich , the palace of the Grand 
Duke of Nassau, close to the railroad 
to Mayence and Rudesheim, lies plea¬ 
santly by the side of the Rhine. The 
numerous interesting spots situated 
in the Rheingau between Biebrich, 
Rudesheim, and above all the Nie- 
derwald, all within the distance of a 
morning’s ride from Wiesbaden, are 
described in Rte. 38. An agreeable ex¬ 
cursion of a day or two may be made 
through the part of the range of the 
Taunus lying between Wiesbaden and 
Homburg. (Rte. 97.) 


Bailway: from Wiesbaden to Mayence 
in 16 min.; thence in 1 hour (see Rte. 
99) to 

Frankfurt a. M. Station. Fiacres , 
1 or 2 persons 24 kr., 3 persons 30 kr.; 
6 kr. extra for every box. Omnibus 
12 kr.; 6 kr. extra for every box. 

Frankfurt on the Main (in Ger¬ 
man Frankfurt-am-Main).— Inns: *H. 
de Russie—table-d’hote, 2| fl. with¬ 
out wine ; Romischer Kaiser : both 
good family hotels: table-d’hote at 1, 
1 fl. 45 kr.; at 4, 2 fl. (wine extra) 

H. d’Angleterre ; — H. de Hollande, 

I Gothe's Platz ; — West-end-hall, out¬ 
side the town, near the Taunus Stat.; 
—Der Weisse Schwan (White Swan), 
good cuisine ; and opposite to it H. 
de l’Union.— 2nd class: H. Drexel, 
Friedbergerstrass, cheap and good;— 
Pariser Hof; —• Landsberg, near the 
Zeil, table-d'hote at 1, 1 fl. 


Cafe , Roeder, in the Gothe’s Platz ; 
good ices ;—Pavilion Milani, Fried- 
berger Aulage ;—Cafe de Hollande :— 
and Cafe Milani, both have Ladies’ 
rooms free from smoking. 

Frankfurt, a Free Town, and the 
seat of the German Diet down to 1866, 
when it was annexed to Prussia, lies 
on the rt. bank of the Main, and is 
connected by a stone bridge with 
the suburb of Sachsenhausen on 
the 1. bank. It has 80,400 Inhab., of 
whom 3000 are Jews. In the days of 
its independence it was one of the most 
lively as well as handsome cities in 
Germany. Many of the houses in 
the New Town , especially in the prin¬ 
cipal street, called Zeil, in the Neue 
Mainzer and Taunus-Strasse, and on 
the quays facing the Main, inhabited 
by rich merchants, bankers, or diplo¬ 
matists, are palaces. Nothing is more 
pleasing here than the belt of Boule¬ 
vard Gardens, replacing the ramparts, 
and studded with handsome detached 
villas. 

The Old Town , on the other hand, 
with its narrow streets and quaint 
wooden buildings, with gables over¬ 
hanging their basement stories, forms 
a complete contrast to the new. Many 
of the houses are of great antiquity, 
especially in the quarter around the 
Cathedral and Rdmerberg; they pre¬ 
serve all the character of “ the ancient 
Imperial Free City.” The curiosities 
of Frankfurt are— 

The Cathedral (Dom); remarkable on 
account of the coronation of the Em¬ 
perors of Germany having taken place 
within it, is not much distinguished 
for beauty of symmetry of architecture 
(the nave, low and short, the oldest 
part, dating from the 13th cent., and 
the choir from 1338). The finest por¬ 
tion is its tower, begun 1415, and 
carried on for nearly 100 years, but left 
unfinished. It has a fine S. door¬ 
way. It was damaged by fire 1867. 
Among the monuments remark that 
of the Emperor Gunther of Schwarz- 
burg, killed (1349) by his rival 










524 


ROUTE 95.— FRANKFURT. ROMER. Sect. VIII* 


Charles IV., and that of Rudolph of 
Sachsenhausen, abundantly orna¬ 
mented. St. Bernard preached the 
Crusade to an enthusiastic audience, 
and performed miracles, in this church. 
In the Election Chapel (Wahlkapelle) 
the Emperor was chosen: and 46 Em¬ 
perors have been afterwards crowned 
in front of the high altar. 

The Town - house , called Romer, a 
building of the 15th cent., has also 
far less of architectural beauty to re¬ 
commend it than of historical interest, 
as the scene of the ceremonies attend¬ 
ing the Election of the Emperors, and 
the place where the festivities succeed¬ 
ing their coronation were celebrated. 
The walls of the banqueting-room or 
Kaisersaal, an irregular apartment, 
in the shape of a rhomboid, where the 
Emperors were entertained, and waited 
on at table by kings and princes, are 
covered with their portraits (52) in the 
order of succession, from Conrad I. to 
Francis II., recently painted by Lessing , 
Bcndeman , Bethel , and other eminent 
living artists, in the place of some 
vile daubs of the sign-post school. 
Under nearly eveiy one is the motto 
which the Emperor adopted at his 
coronation, like sergeants-at-law when 
called to the degree of the coif. At 
the end of the Hall is the Judgment of 
Solomon by Steinle. These paintings 
are the gifts of different royal, noble, 
and private persons, citizens of Frank¬ 
furt, &c., and many have great merit. 
The Hall has been restored in adherence 
to the ancient style, the decoration of 
the ceiling being copied from the ori¬ 
ginal design. Here is preserved the 
famous Golden Bull, or deed by which 
the Empr. Charles IV. (1356) settled 
the mode of Election of the German 
Emperors, and the number of the 
Electors. It is shown for the fee of 
36 kr. 

The Kaisersaal, which is on the 
1st door, is open to the public every 
Monday, Wednesday, and Friday 
from 11 to 1 : at other times admis¬ 
sion may he gained by ringing the 
bell of that door of the antecham¬ 
ber of the Wahlzimmer which is op¬ 


posite to the door by which it is en¬ 
tered. In the Market-place, called the 
Bdmerberg , in front of the building, 
(which, down to 1700, no Jew was 
ever allowed to cross), upon the oc¬ 
casion of the Imperial coronation, .an 
ox was roasted whole, from which 
the Arch-Steward (Erb-Truchsess) cut 
a slice for the Emperor: a fountain 
flowed with wine from which the Arch- 
Cupbearer (Erb-Mundschenk) filled his 
glass, and the Arch-Marshal distri¬ 
buted corn from a silver measure; 
and the populace enjoyed the privilege 
of appropriating the scarlet cloth upon 
which the Emperor walked from the 
cathedral. So greedily was it cut away 
behind him as he passed onwards, that 
he ran the risk of having his heels cut 
also. The ceremonies observed at an 
Imperial coronation maj'’ be seen in 
some old prints on the staircase of the 
public library, and in the election chapel 
at the cathedral. Drawings of the re¬ 
galia too are hung up on the library 
staircase. 

St. Leonhard's Ch. (1323), near the 
river, occupies the spot where the pa¬ 
lace of Charlemagne stood: no traces 
of it now exist. He assembled the 
Bishops and Princes of the Empire 
here at Frankonofurd (the Frank’s 
ford). 

The Saalhof , a gloomy modem build¬ 
ing (1717), near the Main, retains the 
name alone of the palace of his son 
and successors. The Gothic chapel, 
however, appeal's to be as old as the 
10th cent. 

Sachsenhausen , the Southwark of 
Frankfurt, on the 1. bank of the river, 
is, as its name implies, a Saxon colony 
—a different race from the Franks on 
the rt. bank of the Main, and is under 
a distinct jurisdiction. Immediately 
above the old Bridge over the Main, 
which is crowned by a modern statue 
of Charlemagne, on the side of Sach * 
senhausen , stands the ancient Palace of 
the Knights of the Teutonic Order , now 
a barrack. 

Close to the bridge are remains of 







Nassau. 


525 


ROUTE 95.—FRANKFURT. MUSEUM. 


the old palace of the Counts of Isen- 
herg; one side is of good Elizabethan 
Gothic. 

There are two institutions for the 
encouragement of arts and sciences, 
which reflect credit upon the town of 
Frankfurt. 

1. The *Stadel Museum of Pictures , 
a handsome building, in the Neue Main- 
zer Strasse, is named after its founder, 
a citizen of Frankfurt, who bequeathed 
his collections of paintings, drawings, 
and engravings to the city, along with 
83,000/., for building and maintain¬ 
ing a Public Gallery and School of 
Art. 

The collection is open to the public 
gratis, from 11 to 1 daily, except 
Sunday, when it is open from 10 to 1. 
At other times a fee of 30 kr. will pro¬ 
cure admission. 

The pictures which it contains con¬ 
sist of some specimens of the early 
masters of Germany and the Low 
Countries, of a not very numerous or 
remarkable collection of Dutch and 
Italian masters, and of some of the best 
works of the modern German School. 
The following are perhaps the most 
worthy of notice :— 

Italian School. Perugino — Virgin 
and Child. Gio. Bellini —Holy Family. 
Moretto —Virgin and Child, with the 
four Fathers of the Latin Church (from 
Cardinal Fesch’s collection: cost 30,000 
fl.), a very remarkable work, perhaps 
the finest by the master on this side 
the Alps. Paris Bor done — Sketch for 
his great picture at Venice, repre¬ 
senting the Fisherman presenting St. 
Mark’s Ring to the Doge. ( Handbook 
for N. Italy.) 

Here are the following works of 

modern German artists: — Hiibne -- 

Job with his Friends. Lessing — 
Huss before the Council of Constance. 
Very carefully composed and elabo¬ 
rately finished; losing, indeed, much of 
its power by its minute finish. Achen- 
bach —Storm on the coast of Norway. 
Bethel — Daniel in the Lions’ Den. 
Schnorr —The Good Samaritan. Lessing 


—Ezzelin in Prison, after the Battle 
of Cassano. Overbeck —The Triumph 
of Christianity in the Arts. Considered 
a chef-d’oeuvre of the artist: all the 
heads are portraits of persons renowned 
as authors, divines, or artists. The 
visitor will easily discover how much 
the artist has borrowed from Raphael’s 
School of Athens and Dispute of the 
Sacrament. Schadow — The wise and 
foolish Virgins. Steinle —10 coloured 
cartoons, for the frescoes at the Castle 
of Rheineck. Schnorr — Cartoons of 
subjects from Orlando Furioso. Ram- 
boux —10 coloured drawings from the 
Divina Commedia. 

A remarkable altar-piece, consisting 
of a centre and two wings, repre¬ 
senting the events of the Crucifixion, 
by a Cologne artist of the beginning of 
the 15th cent.; formerly attributed to 
Schoreel. Here are some curious works 
of the early German School, and a 
portrait by Q. Matsys , 138, erroneously 
called Knipperdolling 

Dutch and Flemish Schools. A poor 
collection. Hobbema —Landscape. Ruys- 
dael —Storm clearing off. Wood and 
Waterfall. Wynants —Landscape. Ru¬ 
bens —Portrait of his infant Daughter, 
who afterwards became a mm. 

In a room called the Fresco-Saal , 
is a fresco by Veit, representing the 
introduction of the arts into Ger¬ 
many by Christianity, with two alle¬ 
gorical figures of Italy and Germany 
at the sides. Here are casts of the 
latest of Ghiberti’s 2 celebrated bronze 
doors of the Paptistery, Florence ; 
and of parts t f the other, and of 
that by Andrea Pisano; and a sin¬ 
gular and very remarkable composi¬ 
tion, in terra-cotta, representing the 
Virgin and Saints, by Giorg. Andrioli, 
1511, from the Ch. of the Madonna del 
Rosario at Gubbio, in the province of 
Urbino. The very interesting collec¬ 
tion of engravings contains some etch¬ 
ings by Flemish masters not to be met 
with in any other cabinet. 

2. The Senkenberg Museum of JS T a- 






526 


ROUTE 95. —FRANKFURT. 

tural History (close to the picturesque 
Eschenheim Gate, a building of the 
14th cent.) contains very good col¬ 
lections in the various branches of na¬ 
tural history, tolerably well arranged. 
Many rare specimens, not to be found 
in other museums, were brought to 
Europe by the enterprising traveller 
Riippell, a native of Frankfurt, from 
Egypt, Nubia, the shores of the Red 
Sea, and Abyssinia. There is a small 
ethnological collection at the top of the 
house. Open to the public gratis, Wed. 
2 to 4; Frid. 11 to 1. A small fee to 
the keeper will procure admission from 
8 to 1 and 3 to 6 on other days. 

*L>annecker’s Statue of Ariadne , placed 
in a Museum , erected expressly for 
it, in the villa of Mr. Moritz von 
Bethman, outside the Friedberg Gate, 
is the great boast of Frankfurt, and 
deserves to be ranked among the 
distinguished productions of modern 
art. The artist, whose works are little 
known in England, was a native of 
Wiirtemberg. The statue is placed in a 
Grecian temple, built for its reception, 
and is usually shown from 10 to 1 
daily. 

Close to the Friedberg Gate stands 
the monument erected by the King of 
Prussia to the memory of the Hessian 
soldiers killed in the siege of Frank¬ 
furt, 1792. 

The Public Library , in a handsome 
building, facing the Main, close to the 
Ober Main Thor, is a useful collection 
of books. In the entrance-hall is a 
marble statue of Gothe, by Marchesi. 
The Library possesses a few curi¬ 
osities, among which are portraits 
of Luther (by L. Cranach ?), and 
of his wife Cath. a Bora; 2 pair of 
Luther’s shoes, two missals with curious 
old carvings in ivory on the covers, 
and a fine copy of the first edition of the 
Bible printed by Faust at Mainz. The 
Library is open, Tues. and Thurs. 11 to 
12 ; Wed. and Frid. 2 to 4. 

The poet Gothe was born at Frank¬ 
furt, in. the house marked F. No. 74, 
in the Hirschgraben , 1749. His father’s 
coat of arms, which, by a curious 


MUSEUM. LIBRARY. Sect. VIII. 

coincidence, hears the poetical device 
of 3 lyres, still remains over the door. 
The poet’s room, a garret, contains 
relics of him, his portrait, autographs, 
a washstand, &c. 

A monumental statue of him by 
Schwanthaler of Munich stands in the 
Allee, facing the Theatre; it is of 
bronze, pedestal and figure, and is a 
fine work: the subjects of the bas- 
reliefs are taken from Gothe’s works. 

There is also a statue of Schiller by 
Dielman, in the Schiller’s Platz, behind 
the grand guard-house (Hauptwache). 

In the midst of the Rossmarkt , which 
is crossed on entering the town from 
the rly. stat., is placed the Gutenburg 
Denkmal; a colossal group of statues of 
Gutenberg, Faust, and Schoffer, the 
inventors of printing. Round the base 
are ranged heads of 13 eminent printers. 

Luther resided in a corner house in 
the Dom Platz , now marked by his por¬ 
trait and the inscription, 11 In silentio 
et spe erit fortitudo vestra.” 

Frankfurt is the cradle of the Roth¬ 
schild family; the house in which they 
were born is 152 Judengasse (Jews’ 
Street), which long retained the pri¬ 
mitive air of antiquity, and the usual 
rags and refuse of a Jews’ quarter, but 
is gradually becoming modernized. 

The Jews, who form no inconsider¬ 
able portion of the community here, 
were long treated with great illiberality 
by the Free Town. The gates of the 
quarter to which they were exclusively 
confined were closed upon them at an 
early hour every night. This arbitrary 
municipal regulation was enforced, 
until Marshal Jourdan, in bombarding 
the town (1796), knocked down the 
gates of the Jews’ quarter, and they have 
not been replaced since. The Synagogue 
was built 1855, and as the old houses 
are being constantly replaced by new, 
the peculiar character of the Jews’ 
quarter is fast disappearing. The Jews 
may hire or purchase houses in other 
parts of the city. 

The principal business carried on at 
Frankfurt is banking and jobbing in 
the funds. The Exchange (Borse) on 
the Neue Krame, behind the Romer, 
is in the style which at Munich is 




Nassau. 


527 


ROUTE 95.—FRANKFURT. EXCHANGE, ETC. 


called Byzantine ; and built of a 
brown stone, with stripes of red stone 
arranged in the fashion of the Cathe¬ 
dral at Sienna. The architect is 
Stiller , of Berlin; the statues in front 
represent Hope and Prudence, the 
quarters of the Globe, Commerce, &c. 
The interior is a curious mongrel style 
of semi-mauresque, but worthy notice. 
The Braunfels , which formerly served 
that purpose, is an old building in 
which the Empr. Maximilian and Gus- 
tavus Adolphus resided; it is filled 
with traders at the fair time. Near 
the Bdrse is the modern Ch. of St. Paul , 
in which the would-be German Parlia¬ 
ment of 1848 met. 

Frankfurt has hitherto been a staple 
place, or entrepot, for central Europe, 
receiving the productions and manufac¬ 
tures of all parts of the world, to dis¬ 
tribute them in detail over the whole 
Continent. 

The Frankfurt Fairs are held at 
Easter, and 3 weeks before Michael¬ 
mas. They are less important than 
formerly. There are also horse fairs 
in spring and autumn and horse races 
in August. 

The Germanic Diet , now extinct, used 
to meet, down to 1866, in the building 
formerly the Palace of the Prince of 
Tliurn and Taxis. 

British Consul resides here. 

The English Service is performed 
every Sunday at 11 a.m. and 3 P.M., in 
the ch. on the Goethe Platz. 

Physicians. —Dr. Spies has a wide¬ 
spread reputation. Dr. Fabricius, M.D. 
and surgeon, and Dr. M. Getz, 51, 
Neue Mainzer Gasse. 

The Theatre is usually open every 
day; it begins at 6£ and ends at 9. 
There is a summer theatre at Bocken- 
heim, a village near Frankfurt on the 
N.W., and the first stat. on the Frank¬ 
furt and Cassel Railway (Rte. 70). 

Concerts and other entertainments 
are given in a handsome Renaissance 
building (1861) the Saalhau in Junghof 
Str. The hall holds 2500 persons. 

The Post-office is No. 52 in the Zeil, 
a few doors from the Hotel de Russie, 
on the same side of the street. 

The Casino is one of the best clubs 
($ 44) in Germany; nearly 100 dif¬ 


ferent papers are taken in; among 
them most of the French papers, Galig- 
nani’s Messenger, the Times, and one 
or two other English journals. The 
Burger Verein is a Club established 
by the citizens, Eschenheim St., a very 
handsome edifice, furnished with a 
capital Heading-room and restaurant. 
To both these Clubs strangers are 
admitted upon the introduction of a 
member, and even ladies on certain 
days. 

Baths. —Grebs’ warm, cold, vapour 
baths, &c., 27, Leonhards Thor, and 
Alts, 5, Mainzer Gasse, are good. 

The shop of M. Jiigel, the bookseller , 
opposite the great guard-house, is a 
pleasant lounge. Besides guide-books, 
maps, and views likely to be useful and 
interesting to travellers, there are 
usually some very tolerable pictures, or 
other objects of art, for sale here. His 
Circulating Library contains all the new 
books, French, German, and English, 
as they appear. Mr. Jiigel is the Ga- 
lignani of Frankfurt; he speaks Eng¬ 
lish, and is very civil and obliging in 
furnishing all sorts of information to 
strangers. 

Bohemian or Bavarian glass may be 
had at Tacchi’s, No. 44 in the Zeil. 

The reliefs cut in stags’ horn (Hirsch- 
horn), after the manner of a cameo, 
are very pretty. They may be had at 
Bohler’s manufactory , 54 Zeil. The 
bronze copy of the Ariadne of Dan- 
necker is to be had here, and at 
Ihlee’s, 63 Zeil. 

J. J. Weiler and Sons , 41 Zeil, are 
respectable money-changers. 

Public Gardens. — The agreeable 
belt of gardens which encircles the 
town of Frankfurt is one of its most 
pleasing and ornamental features. No 
stranger should omit to visit them. 
They occupy the site of the ancient 
fortifications. Bands play Wednesdays 
and Sunday afternoon at the Zoological 
Gardens in summer. 

The Old and New Cemeteries , about 
1^ mile from the Friedberg Gate, are 
worth visiting (§ 45). The ground com- 






528 R. 95.—FRANKFURT. 


96. —GIESSEN TO COBLENZ. Sect. VIII. 


mands a charming view of Frankfurt 
and the Taunus. Among the monu¬ 
ments under the arcade at the N. upper 
end, that of the Bethman family, with 
beautiful bas-reliefs by Thorwaldsen , is 
well worth notice. A costly monu¬ 
ment has been set up to the Countess 
Reichenbach, who was married to the 
late Elector of Hesse. Sommcring the 
naturalist, and Feuerbach the lawyer, 
are buried here. In the Jewish Burial 
Ground is a marble sarcophagus, 
which cost 2000/., to the memory of 
the founder of the Rothschild family, 
Amschel Meyer Rothschild. 

Here is a Monument to the Prince 
Lichnowsky and Gen. Auerswald, Prus¬ 
sian deputies to the Diet, so dastardly 
murdered by Revolutionary assassins, 
Sept. 18,1848. Also to several Prussian 
officers who lost their lives in storming 
the barricades on that occasion. 

Many pleasant Excursions may be 
made from Frankfurt. 1. To Wies¬ 
baden and the Brunnen of Nassau by 
railway (Rte. 95). 2. To the Tau¬ 

nus mountains by railway as far as 
Hdcbst and Soden (Rte. 97). 3. To 

Homburg , by rail, 8 or 10 times a 
day (Rte. 97), by 
Rodelheim, 

Weiskircben, 

Ober-Ursel, and 
Homburg 

4. To the Baths of Nauheim, by Main- 
Weser Rly. (Rte. 70). 

Railroads: — 4 Railway Termini 
are conveniently grouped together, at 
the side of Frankfurt, between the 
Gallus and Taunus Gates. 1. To May- 
ence and Wiesbaden; 2. To Darm¬ 
stadt and Heidelberg; Strassburg and 
Paris; 3. To Cassel (Main-Weser- 
Bahn) •— from Frankfurt to Paris, via 
Mainz, Mannheim, Saarbriicken, and 
Forbach, in 18 hrs., by express train; 
to Rudesheim, Lahnstein, and Coblenz. 
To Fulda, Eisenach, and Leipsig; 
to Wurzburg and Nuremburg by 
Hanau (terminus outside Allerheiligcn 
Thor, on the E. side of the town). 

Steamers on the Main —to Mayence 
and Cologne daily, slow. 


ROUTE 96. 

GIESSEN TO COBLENZ, BY WEILBURG, 
LIMBURG, AND EMS—RAILROAD. 

60 Eng. m. 

4 Trains daily in 3^ hrs. Giessen 
lies on the railroad from Frankfurt 
to Cassel. (Rte. 70.) 

Wetzlar June. Stat. Buffet.— Inn, 
Herzoglichcs Haus; tolerable. This 
was anciently a free Imperial town, 
and seat of the Imperial Chamber 
from 1698 to 1806; but at the Peace 
of Paris, it, together with the iso¬ 
lated territory attached to it, was made 
over to the King of Prussia. It 
is old and badly built, but is charm¬ 
ingly situated in the Lahn valley, sur¬ 
mounted by the ruined hill fort Kals- 
munt ; it contains about 5500 Inhab., and 
has a Cathedral or Bom, amicably di¬ 
vided between Catholics and Protes¬ 
tants. It shows a mixture of dates and 
styles of architecture and sculpture. 
The tower, constructed of rough blocks 
of basalt and sandstone, with its sin¬ 
gular portal and sculpture are Ro¬ 
manesque. The choir is Pointed of 
13th and 14th cent. It has an elegant 
Roodscreen —among the sculptures on 
which are odd sphinx-like figures, 
the monuments are well preserved. 
Wetzlar derives some celebrity from 
being the scene of Gothe’s romance, 

‘ The Sorrows of Werther,’ founded 
on events which actually occurred 
here. The hero was a Legations 
Secretary, named Jerusalem ; he is 
buried in the churchyard outside 
the Walbach Gate. In front of that 
gate is Charlotte’s Fountain, and 
the house of her father, whose 
name was Amtmann Buff. The author 
has described, under the name of 
Walheim, the village of Garbenheim, 
2 m. distant. The French General 
Hoche died at Wetzlar of consumption. 
2 m. below Wetzlar is the fine Gothic 
Church of Altenberg, originally attached 
to a convent. It contains several monu¬ 
ments. 

• Rail to Cologne, by Siegburg, Rte. 47. 

The next stage lies at some distance 
from the river, passing the town of 




Nassau. rte. 96.—wetzlar. 

Braunfels Stat. On the height above 
is the Chateau of the mediatised Prince 
of Solms-Braunfels. Immediately be¬ 
yond it the Prussian territory ends, and 
that of Nassau begins. 

3 AVeilburg Stat. ( Inns: Deutscher 
Hof; Schwan, good, fine view; Traube) 
is beautifully situated on a high bank 
above the river, being built on a penin¬ 
sula, which is joined to the 1. bank by 
a narrow neck of land, and has a Cha¬ 
teau (built 1711), once the residence of 
the Ducal family of Nassau-AVeilburg, 
which became extinct 1816. The 
gardens extend down to the river. The 
Dukes of Nassau are buried in a church 
here. In the vicinity there is an ex¬ 
tensive park. The view of AVeilburg 
is surpassed by few scenes in N. Ger¬ 
many, the principal features being the 
old castle on a rock, the bridge, and 
the winding river. The hill on which 
AA r eilburg stands has been perforated by 
a Tunnel for the passage of the waters of 
the Lahn. It was at AVeilburg that, in 
1836, Mr. Ilollond, M.P. for Hastings, 
Mr. Monck Mason, and Mr. C. Green, 
descended in the “ Nassau Balloon,” 
having made the voyage from London 
to this place in 18 hrs., starting at 
1A p.m., and arriving here at 7^ on the 
following morning. 

[There is a road hence by Usingen, 
over the Taunus, and down upon 
Homhurg to Frankfurt, 8 Germ, 
m. = 38-2 Eng. m. It passes through 
some fine forests, mostly belonging to 
the Duke of Nassau, whose park is 
passed. At Usingen is a palace be¬ 
longing to the Duke. From the top of 
the hill, before descending into Hom- 
burg, there is a fine view of the Oden- 
wald, as far as the Duchy of Baden.] 

Aumenau Stat. Iron-stone quarries. 

A'ilmar Stat., a walled town. 

This part of the valley of the Lahn 
is picturesque, enclosed by wooded hills, 
and is interesting to the geologist. It 
was formerly partitioned out between 
the 4 reigning houses of Solms, Isen- 
burg, Nassau, and Konigstein. 

Bunkel Stat. (/an, AViedscher Hof), 
an ancient town and half-ruined Castle 
of the prince of AA 7 ied. 

A little above Limburg, on the rt. 
bank of the Lahn, is the Very old i 

[n. g.] 


WEILBURG. LIMBURG. 529 

Church of Dietkirchen, standing on a 
rock, and containing bones of St. Mat¬ 
thew and St. Lubentius, as it is re¬ 
ported. 

Limburg Stat. (/nns: Nassauer Hof; 
Deutscher Hof; Preussischer Hof), a 
very ancient town on the Lahn. The 
superb Cathedral of St. George , with its 
7 towers, rises pre-eminently above the 
other buildings. A ch. was built here 
909, but the existing edifice is not 
older than 1213-42. Its architecture 
is particularly interesting, as it ex¬ 
hibits the latest character of the 
Byzantine style, mixed with the com¬ 
mencement of the Pointed Gothic. Few 
churches in Germany possess equal ex¬ 
cellence of proportions, or an interior so 
perfectly harmonious. The large tri- 
forium gallery, over low aisles, was 
certainly for the use of part of the con¬ 
gregation. Obs. the staircases giving 
access to it; obs. also the delicate carved 
details of the AV. door. It contains 
several monuments of princes of 
Nassau, one of the Emp. Conrad I. 
(the founder, d. 918), and a very finely 
sculptured font. 

The views of the winding Lahn from 
this church and from the picturesque 
bridge, and that of the church itself, 
from a mill on the bank of the river, 
are very .fine. The MS. called Lim¬ 
burg Chronicle is one of the oldest sources 
of German history. A boat may be 
hired at Limburg to descend the river 
to Ems and Coblenz. Limburg is con¬ 
nected by good macadamised roads with 
Frankfurt, 8^ Germ. m. (Rte. 47); 
and AViesbaden, 6 Germ. m. Nieder- 
Selters is about 9 m. off. 

[About 5 m. from Limburg is 

Montabaur (Inn: AVeisses Ross), a 
very picturesque town ; its old castle , 
originally belonging to the Elector of 
Treves is now a R. C. seminary.] 


The "Lahn between Limburg and 
Ems is very picturesque. 

Diez Stat. (Inns: Hof von Holland, 
good and clean; Adler) is romantically 
situated on the Lahn, which is crossed 
by a bridge 600 years old, overlooked 
by the Castle of its ancient counts, of 
i Nassau-Dietz, built on the summit of a 

2 A 





530 


ROUTE 97. —THE TAUNUS MOUNTAINS. 


Sect. VIII. 


rock, now the principal prison of Nassau. 
Not far off is Oranienstein , a chateau of 
the D. of Nassau, not inhabited nor 
remarkable. 

The Lahn is not unlike the Wye, 
though at first the scenery exhibits a 
sameness of beauty, the hills on both 
sides being covered with wood, and not 
distinguished by much variety of shape; 
hut the numerous villages and ruined 
castles on its hanks contribute to em¬ 
bellish the views. A few miles below 
Diez is the mineral spring of 

Fachingen, on the 1., and, about 
as far again lower down, Geilnau 
on the rt. bank of the Lahn. 300,000 
bottles of the water are exported 
annually: it is very like that of Selters. 
At a little distance from the Lahn, on 
its 1. bank, half-way between Fachin¬ 
gen and Geilnau, are the castles of 

Balduinstein Stat ., built 1325, by a 
bishop of Treves, the most interesting 
object on the road; and Schaumburg , 
once the residence of the princes of 
Anhalt-Bernburg, extinct since 1812, 
It was rebuilt with great splendour by 
the late Archduke Stephen. 

The rly. is carried through the 
Tunnel of Cramberg. Not far from it, 
close to the river, stand the ruins of 
the castle of Laurenburg , the original 
residence of the Nassau family, who 
bore the name of Counts of Laurenburg 
down to the middle of the 12th cent. 

,rt. Further on are the village of 
Obernhof, and the small but very per¬ 
fect old castle of Langenau, with its 
walls, gates, towers, and external for¬ 
tifications complete, but filled with vile 
modern buildings, seated on a flat which 
seems to have been once an island. 

1. The Abbey of Arnstein , standing 
conspicuous on the side of a mountain, 
opposite Langenau, presents a many- 
windowed picturesque front to the 
gaze of the passenger. It was the 
feudal seat of a long line of counts, the 
last of whom, Louis of Arnstein, having 
no son, married and portioned off his 
7 daughters, dividing among them a 
part of his estates; then converting his 
castle into a convent, he endowed it 
with the rest of his property, and finally 
became a monk himself. It is now a 
Penitentiary for Rom. Cath. Priests! 


There are no remains of the original 
castle. The Church is entire; its 2 
towers date from 1359. 

When the Lahn is low, it is fordable 
opposite to Arnstein; at other times 
those who come from Nassau must cross 
by the ferry at Obernhof, higher up. 
s „« 0 ,| (Kte . 95) . 

The Rhine is crossed by a bridge to 
Coblenz Station. 


ROUTE 97. 

THE TAUNUS MOUNTAINS, FROM WIES¬ 
BADEN TO FRANKFURT, BY EPPSTEIN, 

KONIGSTEIN, SODEN, AND HOMBURG. 

The E. extremity of the Taunus 
chain of hills, though little known to 
English tourists, will well repay those 
who may be tempted to explore it. 
The district here referred to might be 
nearly included within a triangle drawn 
between the towns of Wiesbaden, 
Frankfurt, and Homburg. This part 
of the chain presents in its narrow pas¬ 
toral valleys, clear purling streams, and 
wooded heights, scenery of the utmost 
beauty, differing from that nearer to 
the Rhine in its character of sylvan 
solitude, and perhaps surpassing it in 
variety. 

The post-road from Wiesbaden to 
Frankfurt passes considerably to the S. 
of these hills; but that from Frankfurt 
to Limburg crosses them. There is a 
carriage road direct from Wiesbaden to 
Konigstein through Eppstein, though it 
is bad in some places, as between Nau- 
roth and Bremthal, after wet weather. 

Plan of a Carriage Tour from Homburg. 
To Konigstein 2 hrs. (visit Konigstein 
Schloss and Falkenstein) ; through the 
valleys of Fischbach, Eppstein, and 
Lorsbach, returning to Konigstein, un¬ 
der the hills by Soden, in about 3 hrs.; 
or, instead of returning by Soden, you 
may continue on to Wiesbaden. The 
whole way good (though not post) 
road. 






Nassau. 


531 


ROUTE 97.—EPPSTEIN. KONIGSTEIN. 


Pedestrians may explore the finest 
parts of this fertile and picturesque 
hill-country district in 2 days, by adopt¬ 
ing the following course. Take the 
Taunus Railway (Rte. 99) to Hat- 
tersheim Stat., walk thence to Ilofheim 
(2 m.), ascend to the chapel hr.’s 
walk) to Eppstein (5 m.), visit the 
castle;—to Konigstein (5 m.). In the 
evening explore the castle, and Falken- 
stein. Early next morning ascend the 
less and greater Feldberg (5 m.), then 
w r alk to the Altkonig (4 m.), hack to 
Konigstein (4 m.), dine there. In the 
afternoon take the diligence to Soden, 
whence a branch railway runs toHochst. 
(Rte. 99.) 

At Hattersheim (Nassaucr Hof) a 
tolerable country road, but destitute of 
shade, turns off to the N.W., and leads 
to the pretty village of Hofheim (2 m. 
Krone). The chapel on the height 
commands a view 'which will well 
repay the trouble of ascending to it. 
The valley of Lorsbach, above Hof¬ 
heim, as far as Eppstein (5 m.), is very 
beautiful indeed. 

Eppstein (Inn, The Oil Mill, dear), de¬ 
lightfully situated at the junction of 4 
valleys. The wild and sequestered 
village is wedged in a narrow defile 
between rocks and mountains. The 
massy towers and donjons of the old 
baronial castle, perched like an eagle’s 
nest on the most accessible point of 
rock, overhang it. 

The family of Eppstein seems nearly 
as old as that of Nassau; many of its 
members were chancellors of the em¬ 
pire and archbishops of Mayence. One 
of them crowned the Empr. Fredk. 
Barbarossa, at Aix-la-Chapelle, and 
afterwards was made Patriarch of Jeru- 
salem. The line became extinct in the 
16th cent.: several of their monuments 
still exist in the village Church. The 
Castle is cut off from the mountain 
by a deep dry trench, evidently arti¬ 
ficial. 

From Eppstein it is 4 hrs/ walk by 
Bremthal, Auringen, Hessloch, and 
Sonnenstein to Wiesbaden. The view 
from the Mahler Platzchen at Eppstein 
is beautiful. 

Konigstein is about 6 m. N.E. from 
Eppstein; the way thither lies through 


the pretty vale of Fischbach. “ The 
whole landscape, the hanging woods, 
variously tinted by autumn, the jutting 
rocks, the sombre sequestered recesses 
in the glen, and the lonely stillness 
which pervaded the scene, sometimes 
reminded one of some of the least wild 
of Salvator’s romantic scenes, or of the 
cool and lovely valleys of Gaspar Pous¬ 
sin .”—Autumn near the Rhine. From 
Fischbach to Schneidhain the way lies 
across the open table-land—thence it 
ascends to 

Konigstein. — Inns : Stadt Amster¬ 
dam, good; the landlord has a trout 
stream: Lowe (Lion) or Post, has a 
garden attached to it. This village 
is a post station on the high road from 
Frankfurt to Limburg. Above it, on 
the height, rises the ruined Castle of 
Konigstein, a modern fortress with 
bastions and casemates, engrafted on a 
feudal stronghold of the middle ages, 
with battlements and watch-towers. 
It belonged originally to the Counts of 
Falkenstein, and afterwards to the 
Barons of Eppstein; was taken by 
Gustavus Adolphus in the Thirty Years’ 
War, and by the French, who dis¬ 
mantled it and blew up its works in 
1796. There is a fine view from it 
over the valleys of the Main and Rhino, 
while the neighbouring castles of Falk¬ 
enstein and Kronberg are most pic¬ 
turesque objects in the foreground. 

It is an agreeable walk hence to 
the Castle of Falkenstein, about a mile 
N.E. from Konigstein. This bold and 
picturesque ruin is an imposing relic of 
a feudal stronghold and baronial resi¬ 
dence of the days of chivalry, and the 
exquisite view from it renders it one of 
the most interesting points of the tour. 
It was the cradle (Stammhaus) of a 
noble family named Nuringen, before it 
was added to the possessions of the 
house of Nassau. 

An excellent carriage-road goes from 
Konigstein to Soden, whence there is a 
branch railway to the Hochst station 
on the Frankfurt and Mayence Railway. 

3 m. S.E. of Konigstein lies the water¬ 
ing-place of Soden ( Inns: Europaischer 
Hof, good and moderate ; Hotel Franz), 
well provided with lodging-houses: 
brine springs rise near it. Here is a 

2 A 2 





532 


ROUTE 97.—HOMBURG. 


Sect. VIII. 


handsome Kursaal with garden and 
pleasure-grounds attached, and many 
villas of Frankfurters in the neighbour¬ 
hood. There is a good road down the 
hill from Konigstein eastward to Kron- 
berg, 2 m., a village of about 1400 
Inhab., prettily situated, surrounded by 
orchards and nursery gardens. Here 
is another ruined Castle; its owners, a 
knightly family, were engaged in con¬ 
stant feuds with the city of Frankfurt. 

Soden is 30 min. by rail from Frank¬ 
furt. By hiring a carriage here you may 
explore Konigstein, Eppstein, Fisch- 
bach, and Lorsbach, in a few hours’ 
drive, and return by rail in the 
evening to Frankfurt. 

The Great Feldberg , the highest of 
the Taunus mountains, rises imme¬ 
diately to the N. of Falkenstein and 
Kronberg. The summit, 2600 ft. above 
the sea, is accessible for carriages, and 
is about 3 m. distant. It commands 
one of the most extensive panoramic 
views to be met with in N. Germany, 
including the Khine and Main, the 
great cities and towns on their banks 
as far as Strasburg, whose spire is said 
to be visible in clear weather, and the 
mountain ranges of the Black Forest, 
Vosges, Mont Tonnerre, Odenwald, and 
Taunus. 

A huge fragment of quartz rock at 
the top of the Feldberg is called Brune- 
hilda’s bed, from a tradition that a 
beautiful Frankish queen of that name 
took refuge here from her enemies. 
Upon the Altkbnig (2400 ft.), the near¬ 
est neighbour S.E. and the mountain 
next in height to the Feldberg, are the 
remains of ancient entrenchments, of 
unknown origin, composed of vast heaps 
of stones piled up in circles. 

There is a direct road from Kronberg 
to Frankfurt; but the journey may be 
agreeably extended by continuing on¬ 
wards through a pretty country, lirs. 
walk to 

Ober- Ursel Stat., on the Bly. from 
Frankfurt, where the old church is 
curious, and thence to 

Homburg Stat. — Inns : II. Quatre 
Saisons, table-d’hbte at 5; II. Bellevue, 
overlooking the gardens, satisfactory; 
Victoria, perhaps the best house here 


for the English (S), truly comfortable ; 
H. de Russie; Europaischer Hof, good 
table-d’hote ; H. d’Angleterre, well 
situated; Hessischer Hof, moderate. 
2nd class Inns : Goldener Adler, 
plain, but clean and moderate; Engel; 
H. de Frankfurt. The rent of good 
lodgings in good situations varies 
from 60 to 100 florins per week for 
3 or 4 rooms; and for large apart¬ 
ments 100 to 120 fl. are charged, and 
from 5 to 7 fl. for a single bedroom, 
from June to Sept. House-rent has 
risen considerably. The table-d’hote at 
the Kursaal, 1 p.m., is much fre¬ 
quented. The newest and best houses 
are on the Promenade. Homburg, a 
town of 3500 Inhab., prettily situ¬ 
ated on an eminence in the midst 
of cultivation, and half surrounded 
by projections from the Taunus, con¬ 
sists of a long main street, chiefly 
of new houses, on one side of which are 
the wells and Kursaal , and on the other 
at the end the gloomy Schloss. The 
discovery of Mineral Springs , partly by 
boring Artesian wells, has converted 
Homburg, since 1844, into a frequented 
watering-place. The waters are very 
valuable in cases of disordered liver 
and stomach. There are 5 springs: 
that of Elizabeth , compared with the 
Rakoczy at Kissingen, contains more 
carbonic acid than any other saline spa 
known, and on that account sits lightly 
on the dyspeptic stomach; the Stahl- 
brunnen , like the ferruginous water of 
Spa; Kaiserbrunnen , similar to the 
Carlsbad water; Badequelle , a salt spring 
like that of Kreuznach; and Ludwigs - 
brunnen. Dr. Lewis is the resident 
English physician. The women who 
distribute the water have no wages, 
and depend on the liberality of visitors. 

On the reputation of these waters 
some French speculators have built, at 
a cost of 20,000/., a Kurhaus , one of the 
most splendid in Germany, decorated 
internally with frescoes, &c., by artists 
from Munich. It contains halls, dining 
(table-d’hote at 1 and 5), coffee, and 
smoking rooms; also a reading room , 
where English and foreign papers and 
periodicals are taken in. The real desti¬ 
nation of the building is that of a gam in g- 
house, that disgrace to the minor princes 




Nassau. 


ROUTE 98. —BINUEN TO MAYENCE. 


of Germany. Let those who are disposed 
to risk their money inquire what is the 
character of the managers, and be on 
their guard. The expenses of such an 
enormous and splendid establishment 
amount to 10,000/. a year, and the 
shares have for some years paid a hand¬ 
some dividend, the whole of which must 
he paid out of the pockets of those who 
resort to the tables. It is only fair to 
observe that the cost of the assembly- 
ball and reading-rooms, public walks 
and gardens, bands, and mineral wells, 
are all paid by Messrs. Blanc, 
and are thrown open to the public 
gratis. It is believed that they have 
even contributed to the expense of the 
English Church opposite the rly. stat., 
where service is performed on Sundays! 
A Homan Catholic church and syna¬ 
gogue have been built since 1860. 

The chief building is the gloomy 
Palace of the Prince of Hesse Hom- 
burg, or Schloss. Its lofty detached 
tower in the principal court, re¬ 
sembling an old Scotch castle, is a 
remnant of a former building. Over 
the inner gateway peers forth an 
equestrian figure of Prince Frederick of 
Hesse, who by a bold charge decided the 
victory of Fehrbellinn over the Swedes 
for the Great Elector of Brandenburg. 
It contains a collection of Homan an¬ 
tiquities dug up on the Saalburg, 5 m. 
off. The gardens immediately attached 
to the castle were laid out in the style 
of English pleasure-grounds by the 
late Landgravine Elizabeth (daughter 
of George III.), but are neglected. 
Between these and the foot of the 
Taunus extends a long avenue of fine 
Lombardy poplars. Beyond this lies the 
Park , and on the slopes of the hills are 
many pleasant walks and drives cut 
through the woods which clothe the 
sides of the Taunus. 

Post-offi.ee. —N.B. Prussian money 
alone is received here. 

The only manufacture is that of black 
stockings; articles in very great request, 
no doubt, by the gentlemen who most 
numerously resort hither every summer, 

5 m. N. are the Saalburg ; ruins of a 
Homan station and camp, a member 
of the great line of defences—“ Limes 
Imperii Homani ”—raised against in¬ 


533 

cursions of the Germans by Drusus 
and strengthened by Germanicus. They 
are reduced to the foundations of a wall 
705 ft. long by 465 ft. wide, surrounded 
by a double fosse. Within, the founda¬ 
tions of the Prcetorium, 163 ft. by 140 ft., 
are laid bare. 

The salt-works of Nauheim , with the 
interesting boiling fountain, are distant 
U hr.’s drive N.E. from Homburg. The 
road runs through Friedberg. (See 
Rte. 70.) & V 

Railway —9 m. to Frankfurt, Rte. 95. 
8 or 10 trains run daily to and fro. The 
Bonames Stat. of the Rhine-Weser 
Rly. is 3 m. distant. 


ROUTE 98. 

BINGEN TO MAYENCE, BY INGELHEIM. 

3^ Germ. m. = 16 Eng. m. 

There are 2 railways from Bingen 
to Mayence ; one along the rt. bank of 
the Rhine, the most interesting, de¬ 
scribed in Rte. 38; and the following, 
on the 1. bank, but at some distance 
from the river side. 

On quitting Bingen Stat. it skirts 
the base of the Rochusberg, but soon di¬ 
verges from the borders of the river. 

On the post-road stands a small 
obelisk erected by the French, bearing 
the inscription, “Route de Charle¬ 
magne, terminee en l’an I. du regne de 
Napoleon.’’ From this point, and from 
the heights a little further on, the view 
is most charming, extending over the 
Rhine, through the whole of the Rhein- 
gau, as far as the distant range of the 
Taunus. In such a situation it was 
that Charlemagne built his favourite 
residence of 

Ingelhelm Stat., now reduced to a 
miserable village, about 1^ m. from the 
bank of the Rhine. Charlemagne loved 
to dwell here, and built himself (768 to 
774) a magnificent palace, which he 
decorated with 100 columns of marble 
and porphyry, the spoils of Romanbuild- 
ings, and with rich mosaics, sent to him 
by Pope Hadrian from Ravenna for that 





534 


ROUTE 99. —MAYENCE TO FRANKFURT. 


Sect. VIII. 


purpose. The site of the edifice is 
now occupied by mud hovels and dung- 
heaps, and partly hy a Jews’ burying- 
ground. It stood near the smaller of 
the two churches—the one nearest to 
Mayence; and the only relics remain¬ 
ing of it are a few mutilated fragments 
of pillars within the church, and a 
column of granite inserted in a corner 
of an old ruined gateway. In the 
church is also shown the monument 
of one of Charlemagne’s 4 queens, a 
rudely carved stone, on which a female 
figure, crowned and in regal attire, 
is discernible. The ornaments round 
the stone in the pointed style indicate 
clearly that it is of a much later time 
than the reign of Charlemagne. 

The red wine of Ingelheim is very 
tolerable. 

Budenheim Stat. 

Mombach Stat., opposite Bieberich. 
The railway now returns to the Rhine, 
and runs by its side, and through the 
fortications to 

2 Mayence Stat. (Rte. 38). 


ROUTE 99. 

MAYENCE TO FRANKFURT.—RAILWAYS 

BY THE RIGHT AND LEFT BANK OF 

THE MAINE. 

4^ Germ. m. = 2 Of Eng. m. 

The Railroad along the rt. bank 
of the Maine, or Taunus-Bahn , was 
opened in 1840. The Terminus is in 
Castel, opposite to Mayence, on the rt. 
hank of the Rhine. ( Inn , Barth’s.) 
Omnibuses ply to and fro for 12 kr. 
[The branch line to Wiesbaden (6 trains 
daily, in 16 min.) is carried through 
the fortifications of Castel, passing fort 
Montebello to 

Mosbach Stat., whence a branch line 
leads to Bieberich on the Rhine.] 

Trains go 6 times a-day in 1 hr. to 
Frankfurt. 

A bridge-toll (briickengeld) of 30 
kr. is paid for a carriage with 2 horses, 
in crossing the bridge of boats from 
Mayence to Castel. Castel belongs to 
Hesse Darmstadt; but a little way out 


of the walls 2 painted posts, by the 
road-side, mark the frontier of Nassau. 
The railway is carried at first along the 
rt. hank of the Main, along the slope of 
the vineyards. About 4 m. on the road is 

Hocliheim Stat., a village on the 
summit of a hill of moderate elevation. 
In its immediate vicinity, and along 
the sunny banks sloping down to the 
Main, for a space of 3 m., are the vine¬ 
yards which produce the wine called 
Hock ,— a name improperly given by 
the English to Rhenish wines. The 
best wine is grown in the vineyards 
below the church, which are sheltered 
from cold winds by the houses of the 
town. They were anciently the pro¬ 
perty of the Chapter of Mayence, but 
now belong to the Duke of Nassau, 
and are highly valuable. The narrow 
strip of ground upon which the railway 
passes through them was very costly. 

Florsheim Stat. 

2^ HattersheimStat.(Nassauer Hof); 
a starting-place for an excursion to the 
Taunus Mountains (Rte. 97). 

Hochst Junct. Stat., on the Nidda, 
which is crossed by a bridge. The chief 
building in it is the deserted Palace of 
the Elector of Mainz, now property of 
Bolongaro, a rich tobacconist, erected in 
the last cent. At Hochst there is a very 
old Church. Branch Railway from this to 
Soden (3 m.) at the foot of the Taunus, 
and diligence thence to Konigstein. 
(Rte. 97.) The Feldberg, the highest 
of the range, and the Castle of Falken- 
stein at its foot, are visible near this. 
The boundary of the territory of Frank¬ 
furt is marked by an ancient watch- 
tower on the post-road to the 1. 

2 Frankfurt-a-M. (Rte. 95.) Ter¬ 
minus , outside the St. Gallus Thor, 
between the Weser Rly. on the 1., and 
the Neckar Rly. on rt. 


The Hessian-Ludwig Railway , com¬ 
pleted 1862, has its terminus in May¬ 
ence itself, on the 1. bank of the Rhine; 
and the trains (daily in 1 hr. to Frank¬ 
furt) cross the Maine at once by a 
permanent iron bridge to 

Bischofsheiin Stat. (see Rte. 99 A.), 
where the line to Darmstadt branches 
rt. Thence by Russelsheim, Kelters- 







Nassau, r. 99 a.—mayence to darmstadt. 100.—the nahe. 535 


bach, Schwanheim, and Forstbans 
Stats., it reaches 

Frankfurt-on-the-Maine (Rte. 95.) 


ROUTE 99 a. 

MAYENCE TO DARMSTADT AND ASCHAF- 
FENBURG.—RAILWAY. 

7 trains to Darmstadt in 1 hr.; to 
Aschaffcnburg in 2 to 3 hrs., 5 trains. 

Mayence Terminus. (Rte. 38.) 

A permament bridge of iron lattice, 
1212 ft. long, of 4 great spans, and 16 
smaller land arches, constructed 1862, 
carries the railway across the Rhine 
from Mayence to the Mainspitz, or 
tongue of land between Maine and 
Rhine. On it are remains of a star 
fort erected by Gustavus Adolphus, not 
far from a modern bomb-proof fort, 
which commands both rivers. 

Bischofsheim Junct. Stat., over a flat 
and uninteresting country 

1. the Rly. to Frankfurt. 

Nauheim Stat. Gross-Gerau. 

Darmstadt Stat. (Rte. 105.) 

Babenhausen Stat. 

Aschaffenburg Stat., on the Maine. 
(See Handbook for South Germany .) 


ROUTE 100. 

THE VALE OF THE NAHE.—BINGEN TO 
KREUZNACH AND SAARBRuCK. 

19| Germ. m. — 91 Eng. m. Rail¬ 
way (Rhein-Nahe-Bahn) opened to 
Kreuznach 1858; to Saarbrucken 1860. 
Trains in 4f hrs. Terminus on the 1. 
bank of the Nahe, close to the Rhenish 
Rly. Stat. of Bingerbriick, about 2 m. 
below Bingen. The most beautiful 
scenery of the Nahe is confined to the 
vicinity of Kreuznach and Oberstein. 

The Nahe pours itself into the 
Rhine at Bingen, through a portal 
formed by the Rochusberg on the rt. 
side, and the Rupertsberg on the 1., 
after a course of scarcely 60 m., 
during which it bathes the territories 
of 4 different sovereigns—Oldenburg, 
Prussia, Bavaria, and ITesse Darmstadt. 

The railroad runs along the 1. bank 
of the Nahe, which is Prussian; the rt. 


belongs to Darmstadt: it passes the 
villages of Munster, Laubenheim, and 
Brezenheim, before it reaches 

2 Kreuznach Stat. (Inns: Pfalzer 
Hof, next the Post-office; Golden Eagle 
Hotel (the landlord was brought 
up in England) ; both in the 
town ; — Berliner Hof, near the 
Bath Island ; —Boarding houses or Hotels 
for persons taking the waters, Oranien- 
hof, Englischer Hof, Rhein-stein, 
Kauzenburg, Hollandischer Hof), a 
thriving town 12,280 Inhab., belong¬ 
ing to Prussia, in a picturesque situa¬ 
tion, which has risen into great repute 
as a watering-place since 1840, on 
account of its mineral waters, which 
contain iodine, and especially bromine, 
in larger proportions than any other 
known, and are singularly efficacious 
in female complaints, and in cases of 
scrofula. The number of visitors already 
exceeds 6000 annually. 

The springs rise in and near an island 
in the Nahe, close to the bridge. Here 
stands the Kurhaus , or assembly and 
reading rooms, around which invalids 
collect morning and evening, to drink 
the water of the Elizabeth Brunnen, 
under the shade of acacias and poplars. 

Here are also Brine Baths, the brine 
(Mutterlauge) being used sometimes 
with the mineral water combined. 

The ruined choir of the Church, near 
the bridge, is picturesque and of a good 
style (date 1332). It has been fitted up 
for the English Service. 

A good view of Kreuznach may be 
had from the pleasure-ground on the 
top of the Schlossberg, rising on the 
1. bank of the Nahe, and crowned by 
the ruined castle of Kauzenberg, which 
belonged to the Princes of Sponheim 
from the 13th to the 15th cent., and 
afterwards to the Electors Palatine. 
In 1632 Kreuznach was taken by 
assault by the troops of Gustavus 
Adolphus. A party of English volun¬ 
teers serving under him was most in¬ 
strumental in its capture. The attack 
was led by Lord Craven, the champion 
of the Queen of Bohemia; and not only 
he, but every English officer present, 
was wounded on this occasion. 

Bookseller .—Voigtlander, has also a 
Reading Room, with English papers. 










536 


ROUTE 100.— KREUZNACH. ebernburg. Sect. VIII. 


Physicians. — Dr. Engelman speaks 
English, &c. 

At the bazaar on the island great 
display of Agates, the produce of 
Obenstein, &c. 

The stranger should walk or drive to 
the Gans, to Rheingrafenstein (1J hr.), 
and to Ebernburg. Dhaun Castle is 1 
hr. by rly. See below. 

There is a carriage-road to the top of 
the Rheingrafenstein , on the rt. bank of 
the Nahe, which commands a fine view 
up the river, and may be reached in 
^ an hour’s time. 

The Rly. on quitting Kreuznach stat. 
crosses the Nahe, passing in sight of 

The Salinen , or Saltworks, of Theo- 
dorshalle, 1 m. above Kreuznach ; and 
on the rt. bank those of Karlshalle, be¬ 
longing to the Grand Duke of Darm¬ 
stadt. They consist of a collection of 
very long sheds, filled with faggots, 
through which the salt water is made 
to trickle, after being raised by pumps, 
in order to evaporate it, and convert it 
into saturated brine, fit for the boiling- 
house. The springs naturally contain 
but 1^ per cent, of saline particles, 
which require to be raised to 18 
per cent, to convert it into saturated 
brine. 

Miinster-am-Stein Stat. (3 m. from 
Kreuznach) is another extensive salt- 
work belonging to Prussia, built on a 
flat, nearly encircled by the Nahe, at 
the foot of the magnificent precipice 
of red porphyry, 420 ft. high, which is 
crowned by the Castle of Rheingrafen¬ 
stein , an ancient stronghold of the 
Rheingraves, destroyed by the French 
in 1689. It is literally perched, like 
an eagle’s nest, on a pinnacle of the 
rock, and is accessible from the salt¬ 
works by a ferry and a very steep foot¬ 
path, but more easily by descending 
upon it from the hill above. The 
modern chateau and farm-house have 
been built by the Prince of Solms- 
Braunfels. From a neighbouring and 
still higher peak, 1070 ft. above the 
Nahe, called the Gans (Goose), the 
best view over the Nahe is obtained. 
The rly. skirts the base of this pre¬ 
cipice. 

[A little above (f m. N.E. of) 
the Rheingrafenstein, at the junction 


of the Alsenz with the Nahe, rises 
Ebernburg , a castle which belonged 
to Franz of Sickingen, the last of 
the knights errant, the terror of 
Worms and Frankfurt, who, though 
but a simple knight, besieged the cities 
of Metz and Treves with an army of 
2000 horse and 17,000 foot, bidding 
defiance to the Emperor. In this 
stronghold he sheltered from persecu¬ 
tion many of the early Reformers, who 
were his bosom friends. Melanchthon, 
Bucer, and CEcolampadius, took refuge 
here under his roof; and Ulric von 
Hutten composed several of his works 
in this retreat. Its defences were so 
much augmented and strengthened, 
that it was thought capable of bidding 
defiance even to the armies of the Em¬ 
pire. After Sickingen’s death, how¬ 
ever, his castle, though stoutly defended 
at first, was at length surrendered to 
the Electors of Hesse and of Treves, 
who carried off all the spoils, and then 
burnt it. The castle is turned into 
an Inn. The valley of the Alsenz con¬ 
tains some picturesque scenes and se¬ 
veral ruined castles. Near Ober- 
moschel, an interesting place with 
fair Inn , is the quicksilver-mine of 
Landsberg, now unproductive. Be¬ 
tween Obermoschel and Meissenheim 
there are coal-mines, which extend all 
the way from the Gian to the borders 
of the Alsenz ; the quicksilver is also 
situated in the coal formation.] 

The rly. runs at the foot of the 
porphyry cliff of the Rothenfels, and 
through two tunnels. 

Waldboekelheim Stat. 2 m N. of 
this lie the Castle and Abbey of Spon- 
heim , the cradle of one of the noblest 
and most ancient families on the Rhine. 

1. near Staudernheim Stat. ( Inn: Sal- 
men) lie the extensive ruins of the 
convent of Dissibodenberg , founded by 
an Irish monk (Dissibodus), who 
preached the Gospel in this district in 
the 6th centy. 

A little below Sobemheim the Nahe 
receives the waters of the Gian. 

Sobemheim Stat. {Inns: Post; Ad¬ 
ler), an old town, Pop. 2300. In the 
10th cent, the inhabitants, aided by the 
Pope, who granted them an indulgence 
for 2 years, built a bridge over the 




Nassau. 


ROUTE 100.— OBERSTEIN. VALE OE THE NAHE. 


o37 


Nahe ; since then the river has changed 
its bed, and left the bridge on dry land. 

Monzingen Stat. Inn ; Pflug. 

At Martinstein a basin-shaped valley 
opens out, at whose extremity rise the 
majestic ruins of the Castle of Dhaun , 
commanding a fine view. A path leads 
down from them, past the village of 
Dhaun and Johannisberg, into the 
Nahe valley again, in about 4 m. to 
Kirn. 

Kim Stat. Inn: Post. A little 
town, with a curious old Church (ta¬ 
bernacle, and monuments of Pfalz- 
graves). Above it rises the Castle of 
Kyrberg. The scenery of the vale of 
the Nahe from the Castle of Dhaim to 
Oberstein is magnificent. 

The Nahe has been bridged several 
times for the rly. before it reaches 

Oberstein Stat., at some distance 
from the town ( Inns: Heindls, on the rt. 
bank; Post, on the 1. bank of the Nahe. 
Oberstein is one of the dirtiest small 
towns it is possible to conceive. “ It is 
very picturesque from its old ruined 
wooden buildings, and beautifully situ¬ 
ated on the Nahe, shut in by high and 
romantic cliffs, chiefly of porphyry or 
amygdaloid, abounding in agates and 
crystals. The agate quarries, f m. 
above Idar, are much less productive 
than formerly, and their exhaustion 
has given rise to the importation of 
other half-precious stones, of finer 
quality, from the East Indies and 
Brazil, (Prov. Bio Grande) in the 
rough , which are here cut and polished. 
This business occupies a consider¬ 
able number of the 3000 Inhab. 
The stones are ground and polished 
by means of grinding-stones of red 
sandstone, moved by water - wheels 
in numerous small mills scattered 
along the neighbouring streams. There 
are large polishing mills at Idar, 
1-i m. off. Mr. Wild is one of the 
principal dealers. Close to Oberstein 
are 2 fine precipitous isolated rocks. On 
the summit of each are remains 
of an ancient castle; one still in¬ 
habited by peasants, the other quite a 
ruin. Immediately under the latter, 
in the face of the precipice, about | of 
its height above the valley, a large 
cavity has been hollowed out, in which i 


the ancient Lutheran chut'ch may be 
said to be embedded.”— T. T. It is 
approached by stairs cut in the rock. 
The living rock forms the roof and one 
side of the building; the other side is 
built up with a wall of masonry, in 
which are 2 large windows to light 
the interior. A spring of water gushes 
out of the floor. 

The locality is interesting to the 
mineralogist, as, in addition to very 
fine and large agates, the porphyry 
rocks here furnish many other rare 
minerals and crystals, as chabasitc, 
harmotomc, &c. 

Oberstein belongs to the distant 
duchy of Oldenburg. The territory 
on the opposite side of the river for¬ 
merly belonged to Saxe Coburg, but has 
been sold to Prussia. 

The difficulties in making the rly. 
above Oberstein were very great: 20 
bridges and 10 tunnels occur between 
Fischbach and Birkenfeld, and in several 
places the bed of the Nahe has been 
turned. 

Kronweiler Stat. 

Birkenfeld Stat. (Inn, Emmerich’s) 
is the chief town of the principality 
of that name, belonging to Oldenburg, 
and contains a plain whitewashed Ducal 
Chateau. The stat. is 3 m. from the 
town. 

[A hilly, but well macadamised road, 
provided with post-horses, leads over 
the bleak high land of the Hochwald, 
from Birkenfeld, by Hermeskeil, to 
Treves, about 32 Eng. m.] 

The summit level of the line is at 
Wallhause, whence it descends in the 
Yale of the Saar. 

St. Wendel. Stat. A fine Church here. 

Ottweiler Stat. A long tunnel. 

Neunkirchen Junct. Stat. Here the 
rly. to Mannheim (Ludwigshafen) di¬ 
verges. (Bte. 103.) Iron furnacesm. 

At Duttweiler, about 3 Eng. N. 
of Saarbriickcn, is a seam of coal which 
has been on fire since 1710. It is 
called “ der brennende Berg I 

Saarbrucken Junct. Stat. ( Inns: H. 
Guepratte, best, in the suburb of St. 
Johann Zix’s), a Prussian town of 8000 
Inhab. on the Saar, which here begins to 
be navigable, and is crossed by a bridge 
connecting the town with the sub- 

2 A 3 





538 


ROUTE 100 A.—SAARfiRUCKEN TO TREVES. Sect. VIII. 


urb of St. Johann. The Schloss was, 
down to 1793, the residence of the 
Princes of Nassau-Saarbriicken ; and 
in the Schlosskirche are some monu¬ 
ments of them. There are coal-mines 
in the neighbourhood, the centre of a 
coal basin, producing near 3 million 
tons per annum, and employing 14,000 
men. About 2 m. S. of Saarbriicken, 
and higher up the valley of the Saar, 
is Arnual, with a fine Gothic church 
(1315), in which are some remarkable 
monuments of the Nassau-Saarbriicken 
family. Saarbriicken was shelled and 
partly burned by the French in the 
opening conflict of the war of 1870, but 
they retired with great loss, Aug. 6. 

Steamboats run daily between Saar¬ 
briicken and Saarlouis. 

Bailways to Metz in 2| hrs., and Paris 
in 12 hrs.;—to Mannheim by Kaisers¬ 
lautern, Rte. 103;—to Treves, by Saar- 
burg. Saarlouis (Rte. 100 a). 

ROUTE 100 a. 

SAARBRUCKEN TO TREVES (SAARLOUIS.) 

121 Germ. m. = 56| Eng. m. Railway 
opened 1860. Trains in 2f hrs. 

The railroad from Saarbriicken (see 
Rte. 100) to Treves descends the beau¬ 
tiful valley of the Saar, touching the 
stats. Louisenthal, Bouss, Ensdorf. 

Fraulautern Stat. [2 or 3 m. distant lies 
Saarlouis (Inns: Rheinischer Hof; 
Zwei Hasen), a strong frontier fortress 
of Prussia, with a long stone bridge over 
the Saar, which flows half round the 
town, and sometimes during the winter 
lays part of it under water. The 
fortifications, constructed by Vauban, 
in the course of 1 year, for a bet 
with Louis XIV., may be inun¬ 
dated by sluices. Its name was 
changed during the first French revo¬ 
lution to Sarrelibre. The Inhab. (7000) 
are partly descended from English 
prisoners placed here by Louis XIV. 
It is the birthplace of Marshal Ney, 
whose father’s house is marked by a 
tablet. By the peace of Ryswyk, 
France was left in possession of Saar¬ 
louis, but it was transferred to Prussia 
by the treaties of 1814-15.] 

Dillingen Stat. 


Merzig Stat. (Inn: Rheinischer Hof). 
A long tunnel before reaching 

Mettlach Stat. (Inn : Saarstrom). The 
extensive buildings, a Benedictine ab¬ 
bey, founded in the 7th cent., are now a 
pottery. The ruins of a castle Mont¬ 
clair peer down upon the valley from 
an almost inaccessible cliff. 

About 3 m. before reaching Saarburg, 
high above the river and road, rises a cliff, 
partly excavated in chambers, called 
Castel, originally a Roman castle , hang¬ 
ing like a bird’s-nest against the face 
of the rock, repaired in 1838 by Fred. 
Wm. IV., King of Prussia, as a chapel 
in which to bury the remains of his 
ancestor King John of Bohemia, only 
son of the Emp. Henry VII., who was 
killed in the battle of Crecy, 1346. 

At the village Nennig is a Roman 
villa, retaining fine Mosaic pavements, 
combats of gladiators, 8 groups, &c. 

Saarburg Station (Inn : Post), a 
dirty and picturesque town of 2000 
Inhab. on the slope of a hill on the 
Leuk, which in traversing it forms a 
cascade near the Post, just before join¬ 
ing the Saar. Above rise the pic¬ 
turesque ruins of a Castle which be¬ 
longed to the Elector of Treves. 

A carriage from the port to Castel, 
2 thalers 10 sgr. 

The Saar is crossed near its junction 
with the Moselle at Conz; date of bridge, 
1782. Ausonius alludes to a very old 
one on this spot. “ Qua bis terna fre- 
munt scopulosis ostia pilis.” Near here 
are scanty remains of a summer palace 
of the Lower Empire. The Monument 
of Igel is about 1^ m. from Conz. The 
rly. crosses the Moselle to reach the 
stat. on its 1. bank. 

3 Treves Stat. (Rte. 41). 


ROUTE 101. 

MAYENCE TO METZ, BY KAISERSLAU¬ 
TERN, HOMBURG [ZWEIBRUCKEN], 
SAARBRiiCK, AND FORBACH—RAIL. 

By railway from Mayence to Ludwigs- 
hafen, Forbach, and Metz (Rte. 103), 
Paris may be reached in 18 hrs.hyAlzey. 

In consequence this high road, made 
by the Emp. Napoleon, is seldom 
followed. The distance by it is 21^ 




Nassau. 


539 


ROUTE 101 . —MAYENCE TO METZ. 


Germ. m. and 7f French posts — 146 
Eng. ni. Eilwagen to Alzey. 

1^ Niederolm. 

Worrstadt. 

1^ Alzey {runs: Darmstadter Hof; 
Poste; zum Kaiser), a very ancient 
town (3500 Inhab.), known to the Ro¬ 
mans as Altiaia. Rathaus, 16th centy., 
good wines. Hundhopfer, Ilcilingenblut, 
Gundersheim (2nd). The Castle , an ex¬ 
tensive ruin, was destroyed by the 
French in 1689. The road quits Hesse 
Darmstadt and enters Bavaria at the 
village of Morschheim. 

1^ Kirchheim Bolanden (7nn, Lowe), 
a town of 3200 Inhab., having a fine 
church and ironworks in its vicinity. 

[The Mont Tonnerre (Donnersberg) 
is about 6 m. distant. The road leaves 
it on the rt., winding round its base. 
It is mentioned hy Tacitus, who calls 
it Mons Jovis. During the French do¬ 
mination it gave the name to a De¬ 
partment, of which Mayence was the 
chief town. The mountain is 2090 
Par. ft. above the sea, and is composed 
of porphyry. The plateau at the 
top is planted with trees. It is en¬ 
circled by a wall, whose origin is un¬ 
known, though it is supposed to be 
Roman. The best view is obtained 
from the Kaisersstuhl , the highest point 
from the tower, 92 feet high, which was 
erected for a trigonometrical survey. 
It is not so fine as that from the Meli- 
bocus on the opposite side of the Rhine.] 

1^ Standeblihl. 

2 m. E. of Dreisen lies Gollheim 
(/mi, Hirsch), where the Empr. Adol¬ 
phus of Nassau was slain by the lance 
of his rival the Empr. Albert, 1298; 
a stone cross under an open chapel 
marks the spot. 

2£ Sembach. The Ch. of Otterberg, 
a little to the N.W. of Sembach, is a 
beautiful Gothic structure, begun by 
the Empr. Conrad II., 1040, but com¬ 
pleted at a much later period. 

IT Kaiserslautern Stat. ( Inns: Don¬ 
nersberg ; Schwan; a town of 15,984 
Inhab., in a very pretty situation. 
There are ironworks here, and the beer 
is esteemed. The Empr. Barbarossa built 
a strong castle here, which was destroyed 
by the French in the War of the Suc¬ 
cession, and a prison now occupies its 


place. Three successive engagements 
took place near this in 1793-94, be¬ 
tween the French and Germans, in 
which the last gained some advantage. 
There are considerable woollen manu¬ 
factories here. Railway to Homburg, 
Mannheim, and Saarbriick, called the 
Pfalzer-Ludwigsbahn. Our road here 
strikes upon the railway from Mannheim 
to Saarbriick, Forbach, and the French 
frontier, now completed by Metz to 
Paris. (Rte. 103.) 

2 Landstuhl Stat. (Inns: Engel; 
Baierische Krone; Post), a town of 
1500 Inhab., which formerly belonged 
to the Counts of Sickingen, whose 
Castle in ruins overhangs the town; 
its walls are 24 ft. thick, and many of 
its chambers are hewn out of the rock. 
The brave and chivalrous Franz of 
Sickingen, the Cid and Bayard of 
Germany, the friend of Luther and 
of Gotz of Berlichingen, lost his life 
in it, in a bold struggle to defend it 
from the besieging forced of his deadly 
and powerful enemies, the Bishop of 
Treves and the Elector of Hesse. His 
death was caused by a heavy beam de¬ 
tached by a cannon-ball from the roof, 
which fell on him and crushed him. 
He was buried under the altar of the 
Catholic church, where his monument, 
mutilated by the French, may still be 
seen. 

1^ Bruchmuhlbach Stat. 

1^ Homburg Junct. Stat. ( Inn , 
Pfalz), a town of 2840 Inhab., has a 
handsome church, built 1840. The for¬ 
tress upon the Schlossberg, celebrated 
in the history of the Thirty Years’ 
War, was razed 1714. 

[Branch Rly. in ^ hour to 

2T Zweibriicken ( French , Deux 
Pouts). — Inns : Post; Zweibriicker 
Hof. A town of 7300 Inhab., in a 
very picturesque situation, once the 
capital of the duchy of Zweibriicken, 
or Deux Ponts. The dukes resided 
in the Palace , partly destroyed by the 
French. It is now seat of the Supreme 
Court of Justice of the Palatinate. 
Here is a District Gaol. The name of 
this place is supposed to be derived from 
the two bridges leading across the river 
Erbach to the palace. The Principality 
was added to the crown of Sweden, 



540 


ROUTE 102. -MAYENCE TO STRASBURG. Sect. Ylll. 


on the accession to the throne of Charles 
Gustavus Duke of Deux Pouts, hut fell 
by inheritance to the King of Bavaria, 
to whom it now belongs. The series 
of the Classics known as “ The Bipont 
Edition” was printed here by a so¬ 
ciety of learned men in 1779.] 

2 Rohrbach. A productive coalfield 
is reached at 

Bexbach Stat. and 

Neunkirchen Junot. Stat. Railway 
to Saarhrucken and Treves. 

At Renderich is the Bavarian frontier. 

2 Saarbriicken Junct. Stat., Prussian. 
Rte. 100. 

1^ Forhach Stat. is the first place 
within the French frontier. Railway 
from Forhach to 

Metz Stat. ( Inns: H. le Jeune, good; 
H. des Victoires) and Paris. 

See Handbook for France. 


ROUTE 102. 

THE RHTNE(E). MAYENCE TO STRASBURG, 

BY WORMS, MANNHEIM, AND SPIRES. 

Railway ou 1. bank by Ludwigshafen, 
opposite to Mannheim. 3 trains daily, 
in about 2 hours, while the steamer 
requires 5 or 6 hrs. Rly. from Ludwigs- 
haven to Strasburg by Hagenau, Rte. 
104. Mayence to Strasburg in 6 to 8 
hrs. Rly. from Mannheim to Kiel and 
Strasburg, on the rt. bank of the Rhine, 
preferable to that on 1. bank. 

The Rhine, above Mayence, loses all 
its beauty; the wide plain through 
which it flows, bounded by the very 
distant chains of the Vosges and Hardt 
on the W., and the Odenwald and 
Black Forest on the E., is as dull and 
nearly as flat as Holland. The river 
does not fall more than 22 ft. between 
Spires and Mannheim. 

The following route passes through 
the territory of Ilesse as far as Worms, 
thence through Rhenish Bavaria to 
Mannheim ; it conducts the traveller to 
the ancient Imperial cities of Worms 
and Spires, so interesting in an histo¬ 
rical point of view, and so dull and 
desolate in their present state. Those 
who prefer pretty scenery should take 
the route by Darmstadt and the Berg- 


strasse (Rte. 105). Whichever route is 
followed, the traveller should not omit 
to visit Heidelberg and Baden. 

Steamers ascend the Rhine from 
Mayence to Mannheim twice a-day, in 
6 hrs., returning in 4. 

The river winds very much in this 
part of its course, and the ascending 
voyage is tedious and slow. Of late 
years many canals have been formed 
across the isthmuses created by the 
turns of the river, and thus its course 
is being shortened. Still it is prefer¬ 
able to travel upwards by railway, 
though the fares by rail are double 
those of the steamer. 

The E. bank of the Rhine, along 
which the railroad runs from Mayence, 
is at first a succession of gentle hills 
planted with profitable vineyards, the 
best among them being those of Lauben- 
heim Stat. and Bodenheim Stat. The 
soil of the low ground of the Rhine 
valley, all the way to Switzerland, is 
fertile in the extreme. 

1. Nierstein Stat. {Inn, Anker), a 
small town of 2200 Inhab., gives its 
name to a very good second-class wine, 
produced in the surrounding vineyards. 
The Sironabad, near Nierstein, was 
known to the Romans: not far from 
it, at the Yellow House Inn , is a filing 
bridge over the Rhine. The Chapel 
of the family v. Herding is decorated 
with frescoes by Gotzenberger, a mo¬ 
dern artist, representing the Adoration 
of the Shepherds—the Coronation of 
the Vii’gin — penitent Magdalen— 
Faith, Hope, and Charity. 

2T ]. Oppenheim Stat. Inn: Zum 
GelbenHause (theYellow House), men¬ 
tioned above, outside the town, tolerable. 
On a hill to the N.W. of this town (of 
2400 Inhab.), under the stately ruins of 
the ancient Imperial Castle of Landskron, 
stands the Ch. of St. Catherine , a build¬ 
ing worthy to arrest the attention of all 
who pass this way. It is a pure ex¬ 
ample of the Gothic style, displaying 
at the same time the utmost richness 
of decoration consistent with elegance 
and propriety. The towers are in the 
style of the 12th cent.; the nave and 
E. chancel, begun 1262 by Richard of 
Cornwall, Empr. of Germany, were 
i completed in 1317; the W. chancel, 



Darmstadt. 


541 


Iioute 102, 

now a ruin, in 1439. The nave is re¬ 
markable for its lightness and beauty ; 
the painted glass of the windows must 
have been splendid; in one of them it 
still remains nearly perfect. Some of 
them have a species of fan-shaped tra¬ 
cery. The rose window is one of the 
finest specimens in Germany, and most 
elaborate in its tracery. There are some 
good monuments in the chiu’ch of the 
Dalbergs and Riedesels, a family of 
the Wetterau, who bore asses’ ears for 
their crest; obs., the staircase at W. 
end of N. aisle, and the Immaculate 
Conception carved over W. door. It 
is melancholy to see what was once 
so fine a building, and still possesses 
so much beauty, fallen into such a state 
of decay and neglect. The roof of the 
nave is gone, and within its walls is a 
wilderness of grass and weeds. These 
injuries owe their origin to the French, 
who burnt down a part of the church 
during the war of the Palatinate. It has 
happily undergone some repair, to which 
the government contribute 700 florins 
a-year. 

A ruined chapel within the church¬ 
yard is half filled with the skulls and 
bones of Swedes and Spaniards, who fell 
here in battle, 1631, champions of the 
causes of Protestantism and Popery. 

The Castle Landskoon , connected by a 
wall with the town, was once an Im¬ 
perial residence, founded by the Emp. 
Lothair, and restored by Emp. Rupert 
1416. It commands now a good view. 

rt. Gustavus Adolphus recorded his 
passage of the Rhine, in the winter of 
Dec. 7, 1631, by a monument on the 
rt. bank at Erfelden, a little above 
Oppenheim, but not seen from the 
steamer, which traverses an artificial 
cut. It consists of a pillar with a lion 
on the top. The Swedes crossed the 
Rhine singing a psalm; and there is a 
tradition that their sovereign and 
leader was ferried over on a barn door. 
The field of battle still goes by the 
name of the Spaniards’ churchyard, 
from the number of bones found in it. 

The road now quits the borders of 
the river, which winds exceedingly. 
A canal, cut across an isthmus formed 
by its bendings, saves the boatmen a 
circuit of several miles. 


—OPPENHEIM. 

rt. At Gernsheim Stat., on rly. to Darm¬ 
stadt, called Riedbahn ( Inn , Lamm, 
Karp fen), on the rt. bank of the Rhine, 
a colossal statue of sandstone, 12 ft. 
high, of Peter Schoffer, the partner of 
Faust in the discovery of printing 
(1457), who was born here, has been 
erected, and is fresh painted every year 
on his birthday! 

Guntersblum Stat. (Pialzer Hof), 
a town belonging to the Count v. 
Lciningen, who has a Schloss here. 
The election of an Empr. of Germany 
(1024), which ended in the choice of 
Conrad II. (the Salic), was held on the 
great plain between Oppenheim and 
Guntersblum : the various German 
races, who had a voice, encamped on 
either side of the Rhine, no city being 
large enough to hold them. 

Alsheim Stat. 

Mittenheim Stat. 

Osthofen Stat. 

1. Immediately below Worms, out¬ 
side the walls, though once in a 
flourishing suburb, utterly destroyed 
by the Swedes (1632) and French 
(1689), is the fine Gothic * Church of 
Our Lady (Liebe Frau), founded 
1220, rebuilt 1467, restored 1867. 
Over the W. door are curious carvings 
representing the Wise and Foolish 
Virgins. It is situated within the vine¬ 
yard which produces the pleasant wine 
called after it Liebfrauenmilch (our 
Lady’s milk). It is the property of Mr. 
P. J. Valckenberg, an eminent wine 
merchant. The finest quality of wine 
is grown close to the ch. 

The steamer brings to off 

Worms; the fown is about 1 m. dis¬ 
tant from the Rhine, which anciently 
washed its walls. It is partly concealed 
from view by trees. 

1.2| Worms Stat. — Inns: Alter Kaiser, 
near the Dom ; Bellevue; Rheinischer 
Hof, near the steamer’s landing-place, 
1 m. from the town. 13,381 Inhab. 
(3500 Rom. Cath., 900 Jews) is the 
actual amount of the pop. of Worms, 
which once contained 40,000. It 
still retains its old Walls, flanked at 
intervals by handsome and massive 
towers, probably of the 13th cent. This 
once important Imperial Free City is 





Sect. VIII. 


ROUTE 102. —THE RHINE. WORMS. 


542 

still venerable even in its decay from 
historical associations connected with it, 
such as few other cities in Europe can 
boast of. It was called by the Romans 
Augusta Vangionum and Borbetomagus. 
In the times succeeding their dominion 
it was the residence of many Frankish 
and Carlovingian kings; Charlemagne 
himself was married here, and held, 
near "Worms, those rude legislative 
assemblies of the Franks, called, from 
the month in which they were con¬ 
voked, Mai Lager (Champs de Mai). 

Worms was the seat of many Diets of 
the German Empire: two of them are 
particularly important in the history of 
Europe; that of 1495, which, by abolish¬ 
ing the right of private war (Faustrecht ), 
first established order in Germany; and 
that of 1521, when Luther appeared 
before the young Empr., Charles V., 
and the assembled princes, to declare 
his adhesion to the Reformed doctrines, 
which the Diet finally declared to be 
heretical. Since the infamous burning 
and demolition of Worms by the incen¬ 
diary Melac (1689), the ruffian instru¬ 
ment of Louis XIV. and Louvois, the 
city has never regained its prosperity. 

The only fine edifice in the town is 
the Domkirche or Cathedral; —a plain 
and massive Romanesque building of red 
sandstone, dedicated 1016 in the pre¬ 
sence of the Epip. Henry II., though 
little remains of that age, as the ch. 
was consecrated anew in the 12th cent., 
and the greater part is of that period, 
while the vaulting and W. end are of the 
13th cent.; the pointed arch makes its 
appearance in the W. end of the nave. 
It has 2 towers at each end, and within 
has 2 choirs and 2 high altars, one for 
the chapter, the other for the laity. 
The interior, 470 ft. long, has been re¬ 
paired in a very skilful manner, 1860, 
by binding the tottering walls together 
with iron ties and the roof repaired. The 
side chapels date from the 14th and 15th 
cents. On the S. side is a magnificent 
pointed portal, whose sculptures deserve 
examination, date 1472. In the Baptist¬ 
ery , close to the S. door 1., are placed 
some very remarkable sculptures (date 
1487), removed from the cloister, no w de¬ 
stroyed : they represent, 1. the Annun¬ 
ciation ; 2. the Nativity; 3. the Genealo¬ 


gical Tree of the Virgin; 4. the Descent 
from the Cross; 5. the Resurrection. 
The traces of faded painting on the 
walls and piers are among the earliest 
productions of German art. Here are 
many gravestones, with figures in relief; 
the monument of Eberhard of Hep- 
pingen; akneeling figure is of good work. 

The red stone walls to the N. of the 
Dom are substructions of the ancient 
Bischofshof , destroyed by the French 
in 1689, and again in 1794. In it was 
held the diet of 1521, at which Luther 
appeared before Charles V. Some have 
incorrectly supposed that this event 
occurred in the Rathhaus, which stood 
where the Lutheran church now stands, 
in the market-place, and in which a poor 
picture representing the Diet is hung up. 

A grand * Monument to Luther was 
completed 1868. The bronze statue, 
12 ft. high, of the great Reformer, 
raised on a lofty pedestal, intent on 
his Bible, forms the centre and summit 
of a group of precursors and cotempo¬ 
raries ranged around him—Wickliff, 
Peter Waldo, Savonarola, and John 
Huss. Surrounding these, at a lower 
level, are Frederick the Wise, Elector 
of Saxony; Philip the Generous, Land¬ 
grave of Hesse, leaning on his sword ; 
Ph. Melancthon and John Reuchlin. 
Three stout females personify cities 
connected with the Reformation — 
Augsburg, Magdeburg, and Spires. 
The arms of 24 other cities decorate 
the parapet. The design was made by 
Rietschel, 1856, who died 1866, after 
completing the statues of Luther and 
Wickliff. The rest were modelled by his 
pupils Schelling, Dondorf, and Kietz. 

The W. end and choir of St. Paul's 
Ch. are interesting for the antiquity and 
beauty of their architecture. They date 
probably from the year 1016 ; the rest 
of the church is recent. It is now a 
Avarehouse. 

The W. doorway of St. Martin's 
Church , opposite the Post Office, is Avorth 
seeing. 

The Synagogue near the Mainz Gate 
is a small 12th cent, building, a plain 
Roman vault, resting on 2 piers of sin¬ 
gle shafts Avith sculptured capitals, 
like those at Jerusalem. A recess at 
the side is devoted to the women: 







Baden. route 102.— frankentiial. ludwig shafen. 


windows mostly round-headed. The 
ark for holding the hooks of the Law is 
of poor Renaissance style (18th cent.) 
The Jews have been established in this 
spot from a very early period, and en¬ 
joyed privileges denied them in most 
other parts of Germany. They have 
a very ancient burial-ground like that 
at Prague. 

Strangers should visit the fine gardens 
and hothouses of Mr. Heyl, visible 12 
to 2, commanding a fine view of the 
Dom. 

On part of the Old City Walls grow 
the vines which produce the wine called 
Lug-ins-land. They command a good 
view. The wine trade and the making 
of glazed leather (glanz-leder) form the 
business of Worms. 

The best beer in Worms to he had at 
Caf€ Convent. 

The country round Worms was the 
favourite theme of the Minnesanger, 
who speak of it under the name of 
Wonnegau (Land of Joy). It is partly 
the scene of the Nibelungenlied ; * and 
the island facing the Rheinischer Hof 
is called Bosengarten, a name which 
often occurs in the Heldenbuch. 

Raihoay from Worms (Rosengarten) 
by Gemsheim to Darmstadt in 1 hr. 30 
(Riedbahn). 

Near Pfiffligheim stands Luther's Elm 
Tree, under which the reformer is re¬ 
ported to have reposed on his way to 
the Diet, when, in reply to the warn¬ 
ings of friends who wished to deter him, 
he said that he “ would go to Worms, 
even though there were as many devils 
within its walls as there were tiles on 
its houses.” At Hernsheim, about 2 
m. out of the town, are the Chateau, and 
Park of the Dalherg family, and a church 
of the 14th cent., containing several of 
their monuments* an elegant stone 
pulpit, 1482, and credence table, iso- 

* This fine old German poem was written 
towards the latter end of the 12th century, but 
the traditions on which it is founded appear to 
have been handed down, probably in popular 
lays, from very remote times, and to have 
been common to all the tribes (German, Saxon, 
and Scandinavian) of the Teutonic race. No 
less than 20 poems of the Edda, which, as it 
has been satisfactorily shown, must have been 
composed prior to the year 863, contain the 
same tragical story of the mythic-heroic per¬ 
sonages who figure in the Nibelungen. 


543 

lated columns supporting the chapels of 
St. Nicholas and St. Catherine. 

N. B.—Travellers proceeding down 
the Rhine, and acquainted with its 
scenery between Mayence and Bingen, 
may vary their route in an agree¬ 
able manner, by leaving the Rhine at 
Worms and proceeding through an in¬ 
teresting country by Alzei (Rte. 101), 3 
Germ. m. to Kreuznach on the Nahe 
(Rte. 100), 3f Germ. m.—road excellent, 
but hilly. The beautiful scenery of the 
Nahe is described in Rte. 100: they 
should ascend it as far as Oberstein, and 
may then either return to the Rhine at 
Bingen, or proceed on by Birkenfeld to 
Treves, whence they may descend the 
Moselle to Coblenz. 


As far as Worms both hanks of the 
Rhine belong to Darmstadt, A few 
miles above it commence the territories 
of Baden on the rt. hank, and of Rhenish 
Bavaria on the 1., across which our road 
lies. The railroad passes— 

1. Frankenthal Stat. {Inn, Hotel 
Olto), originally a colony of Fle¬ 
mings, driven out of their country 
by religious persecution in 1562, who 
introduced manufactures not before 
known in Germany, and raised this 
small town by their industry to a state 
of great prosperity. It was held for 
some months in 1622*23 by the scanty 
English force under Sir Horace Vere, 
sent over by James I. to support the 
cause of his son-in-law the Elector 
Palatine : hut neither in number nor in 
the skill of their commander were they 
fit to cope with a veteran general like 
Spinola, to whom and his army of 
“ tough old blades” they were opposed, 
and they were accordingly obliged to 
surrender the town to the Spaniards 
It has now 5000 Inhab. A canal con* 
nects it with the Rhine 3 m. off. 

21. OggersheimStat. Inn, Pfalzer Hof. 

rt. The Neckar enters the Rhine 
about £ m. below Mannheim. An 
iron bridge over the Rhine leads into 
Mannheim from 

1. Ludwigshafen June. Stat. {Inn: 
Deutsches Haus, near the Stat.) A 
flourishing trading town, which has risen 
up since 1843 on the site of the Tete-du- 
Pont forming part of the outworks of 






544 


ROUTE 102. —MANNHEIM. 


Sect. VIII. 


Mannheim while it was a fortress. It 
was the scene of many fights during the 
war of the French Revolution, and in 
1814 the Russian division of Gen. Sacken 
here forced the passage of the Rhine. 
Railways connect Ludwigshafen with 
Forbach, Metz, and Paris, with Saar- 
briick and Homburg, also by Neustadt 
with Hagenau and Strasburg. There is 
a branch line to Spires. (Rte. 103.) The 
landing-place of the steamer is just 
below the bridge, ~ m. distant from 
Mannheim, near the bonding ware¬ 
houses ( Freihafen ), a handsome build¬ 
ing by Hubsch, erected at the water¬ 
side. 

A handsome double iron lattice 
Bridge , on stone piers, resembling that 
of Cologne, carries both rly. and 
carriage traffic across the Rhine into 

1. Mannheim Stat. Inns: H. de 
1’Europe, close to the landing-place' of 
the steamers, a large house with 100 
bed-rooms, from 1 fl. upwards (servants 
24 kr. daily) civility and cheapness. 
La Cour du Palatinat (Pfalzer Hof), 
in the town, verjr good. 

The situation of this town, on the rt. 
hank of the Rhine, and between it and 
the Neckar, is low. A high dyke pro¬ 
tects it from inundations. The Rhine 
here, at 317 Eng. m. from the sea, is 
1200 ft. in breadth. Mannheim was 
formerly the capital of the Palatinate, 
and has 34,000 Inhab. It has become 
a place of considerable trade since 1846. 
It was once strongly fortified, and 
was in consequence several times ruined 
and twice literally reduced to ashes 
and levelled with the dust by sieges 
and bombardments—first in the Thirty 
Years’ War, afterwards by the French 
in the war of the Orleans succession. 
It did not exist as a town till after 
1607, and, within a century, was twice 
rebuilt, after which it was again bom¬ 
barded by the French in 1794, and 
by the Austrians in 1795; indeed, from 
the first moment of its existence it ap¬ 
pears to have been an object of struggle. 
The French general who took the town 
in 1689 called the townspeople together 
and informed them that it was the un¬ 
alterable determination of his master, 
Louis le Grand, to raze Mannheim with 
the ground; but, as a special favour, he 


would intrust the work of destruction 
to themselves, and would allow them 20 
days to complete the work. As the 
inhabitants could not bring themselves 
to put into execution this diabolical 
sentence, the duty was performed by the 
soldiers, who drove out the lingering 
tenants, set fire to the houses, blew up 
the fortifications and churches. During 
the siege of 1795 half of the palace was 
burnt, and only 14 houses remained un¬ 
injured—26,000 cannon-balls and 1780 
bombs were thrown. At length the 
French gandson of 9700 men surren¬ 
dered to General Wurmser. Fortunately 
for its future welfare it is now defenceless, 
owing to the removal of its ramparts. 

To the cause stated above the modern 
town owes its present rectangular and 
monotonous regularity. It consists of 
11 straight streets, crossed by 10 other 
streets at right angles to them, and at 
equal distances. “ The system by 
which houses are identified is sin¬ 
gular and merits explanation. The 
town is divided into two parts by 
the great street leading from the palace 
to the Suspension Bridge over the 
Neckar. The first row of blocks 
of houses parallel to this street, on 
each side, is numbered 1 ; the second 
row of blocks of houses on each side, 
parallel to the first, is numbered 2, and 
so on. But taking the blocks in cross 
rows,on one side of the above-mentioned 
great street, the row nearest to the 
palace is lettered A, the second B, and 
so on; and on the other side the street, 
the row nearest the palace is lettered 
L, the second M, and so on. Thus a 
letter and a figure are necessary to de¬ 
fine any block of houses. In each 
block the houses are numbered 1, 2, 3, 
&c. Thus, in looking in the Mannheim 
Directory for a person’s residence, you 
will find (for instance) C 3, 6. This 
means No. 6 in the block which is de¬ 
fined by the mark C 3. The letter C 
shows in which row of blocks it is as 
taken one way, and the figure 3 shows 
in which row of blocks it is as taken the 
other way.”— G. B. A. In the public 
squares are fountains which want 
only water to render them useful as well 
as ornamental; indeed, good water is 
scarce here. The town is remarkable 



llhenish Bavaria. ROUTE 102.— 

for its cleanliness. Gothe calls it “ Das 
freundliche, reinliche Mannheim.” 

Mannheim does not possess many ob¬ 
jects of interest, and need not detain a 
traveller long. 

The principal building is the Palace , 
a huge structure of red sandstone, more 
remarkable for size than architecture, 
erected by the Elector Palatine Karl 
Philip, when he removed his court from 
Heidelberg and made Mannheim his 
capital (1720). A Theatre in one wing, 
which was reduced to • a mere shell 
by the Austrian bombardment, has 
been repaired and rebuilt. A part of 
the palace serves as a Museum to 
contain the Gallery of Paintings , the 
majority of which, except some speci¬ 
mens of the Dutch school, are very 
mediocre ; a Collection of Plaster Casts , 
and a Cabinet of Natural History , with 
some good specimens of minerals and 
fossils. The best part of all the Mann¬ 
heim collections were transferred to 
Munich in 1778. 

The Gardens behind the palace, end¬ 
ing in a raised terrace (Rheindamm) 
upon the brink of the Rhine, and the 
Planken , a broad street, planted with 
trees, between the Heidelberg and 
Rhine gates, are the promenades of the 
inhab. The private gardens along the 
banks of the Neckar are a great orna¬ 
ment to the outskirts of the town. 

In the Schiller’s Platz stand statues 
of Schiller, Dalberg, and Iffland,—the¬ 
atrical worthies and contemporaries. 

If we except the Jesuits’ Church , 
which, after all, is not of first-rate archi¬ 
tecture, and, though imposing, is over¬ 
loaded with marble inside, there is no 
remarkable building here. 

The Theatre is on a good footing. 
The orchestra is not sui-passed in this 
part of Germany. Here Schiller’s 
‘ Robbers ’ was first brought out in 
1782. Opposite the principal entrance 
to the theatre is the house of Kotzebue, 
where he was assassinated by the mad 
student Sand; the victim and murderer 
are both buried in the Lutheran church¬ 
yard. Schiller lived on the Parade Platz, 
in the house called Zum Karlsberg. 

The reading-room of the club called 
the Harmony , in the Planken, is thrown 
open to strangers properly introduced. 


SCHWETZlNGEtt. 545 

A very agreeable lounge here is the 
establishment of Messrs. Artaria and 
Co., where all the productions of the 
fine arts and literature in Germany and 
Italy are to be met with, and a tourist 
can supply himself with all sorts of maps, 
views, &c., indispensable on a foreign 
journey. M. A. has a fine collection oi 
original paintings. 

Heidelberg is only ^ an hour by rail 
from Mannheim. From Friedrichsfeld 
Sta., half way, you may drive to 
Schwetzingen. 

Speyer is only 1 hr. by rail. 

[Schwetzingen should be visited from 
Mannheim for the sake of the gardens, 
about 9 m. distant (j hr. to Friedrichs¬ 
feld Ely. Stat., f hr. thence in Ein- 
spanner). Inns: Erb Prinz ; Hirsch. 
It is a small town of 2500 Inhab. Its 
Chateau had been from early times a 
seat of the Electors Palatine, when the 
Elector Charles Theodore made it his 
summer residence in 1743, and em¬ 
ployed the 20 following years, and vast 
sums of money, in converting into an orna¬ 
mental garden a flat sandy desert, in¬ 
debted to nature for no favour but the 
very distant prospect of a picturesque 
chain of hills. Those who desire to see 
all the sights here may prolong their 
walk for 2 or 3 hrs.; at any rate it is 
well to take a guide at the gate. The 
objects best worth notice are the Mosque, 
the temples of Mercury and Apollo, the 
Bath, the Roman aqueduct, and the 
Temple of Pan. The vista looking over 
the great basin towards the Vosges 
Mountains has the pleasing effect of a 
natural diorama. The Gardens them¬ 
selves are perhaps the finest in Germany, 
laid out in the formal French style, 
carried to perfection by Le Notre at 
Versailles, with straight basins edged 
with stone, and ruffled by ever-spurting 
fountains, with prim parterres, peopled 
with statues, flanked by cropped hedges, 
and intersected by long avenues. They 
extend about 1 i 4 Eng. acres. The 
Botanic Garden , included within their 
circuit, contains a fine collection of Al¬ 
pine plants. The conservatories and 
the orangery are worth notice. 

The Chateau , originally a small hunt¬ 
ing-lodge, augmented from time to time 
by wings, orangeries, and other addi- 





546 


Sect. VIII. 


ROUTE 102. —SPIRES. HISTORY. 


tions to accommodate a court, is ho¬ 
noured with few and short visits from 
the reigning Grand Duke, and is not 
worth notice ; hut the grounds are kept 
in good order, and well deserve a visit.] 

Omnibus from the Ludwigshafen 
Stat. on the 1. hank of the Rhine to 
the Frankfurt and Heidelberg Stat., 
If m., a drive of 20 min.; fare 22 krs.; 
also Droschkies. 

Railroads to Heidelberg, 15 Eng. m. 
Trains in 1 hr. to Baden and Strasburg; 
—to Frankfurt and Carlsruhe (Rte. 
105);—from Ludwigshafen to Spires;— 
to Kaiserslautern, Homburg, Bexhach, 
and Saarbriicken;—to Hagenau and 
Strasburg ;—to Metz and Paris in 16 
hrs. (Rte. 103) ;—to Mainz. 

Steamers go several times a day to 
Mayence and Coblenz. 

There is no inducement to follow the 
Rhine above Mannheim, as Spires may 
now he visited by railway from Lud¬ 
wigshafen. The traveller going south¬ 
ward had better proceed by Heidelberg 
along the Baden railway. (Rte. 105.) 

Railway from Ludwigshafen to Spires 
and Germersheim ,—trains in f hr. After 
leaving the stat. the Castle of Heidelberg 
is seen in the distance, under a red scar 
on the hill side of the Kaiserstuhl. 

Mutterstadt Stat. 

Schifferstadt Junct. Stat. [Here the 
branch railway to Spires and Germers¬ 
heim diverges from the line which runs 
W. to Neustadt, to Kaiserslautern, and 
Bexhach. (Rte. 103.) 

1. Spires (Germ. Speier) Stat .— 
Inns : Post ( Wittelsbacher Hof ) ; 
Rheinischer Hof. This ancient and 
venerable city, one of the oldest, and 
originally one of the chief, cities in 
Germany, lies upon the 1. hank of the 
Rhine. Its population, which in the 
14th cent, amounted to 27,000, is now 
reduced to 14,800 (3-5ths Protestants), 
and it is in all other respects a mere 
shadow of its former self. It received 
from the Romans the name Civitas 
Nemetum , or Noviomagus; hut in their 
time it was only a fortified outpost on 
the Rhine to resist the attacks of the 
neighbouring- Allemanni. Charlemagne, 
however, and the Emprs. of Germany 
who followed him, especially those of 


the Franconian and Swabian lines, 
made it their place of residence and 
the great of the Germanic Diet, bestow¬ 
ing upon it, at the same time, the pri- , 
vileges of a Free City of the Empire , 
which made it the centre of a flourishing 
trade, and poured wealth into its wrnlls. 
The Charter (Freibrief), conferred by 
Henry V. in 1111, gave to its citizens a 
monopoly of the carrying trade up and 
down the Rhine, and entitled them to 
destroy any baronial castle which might 
he built within 3 Germ. m. of their 
gates—anenactment intended effectually 
to secure them from troublesome and 
rapacious neighbours. The history of 
Spires during the period of the middle 
ages is an alternate record of Imperial 
festivities and courtly show, and of scenes 
of tumult and violence within its walls, 
and deadly feuds and combats without. 
Its citizens, in those unquiet times, 
were as well versed in the use of arms 
as in the arts of trade. At one time 
they were called upon to issue from their 
walls in order to chastise the lawless 
rapacity of some feudal baron, who had 
waylaid their merchants and pillaged 
their property on the high road, and 
who often paid for his insolence by hav¬ 
ing his castle burnt about his ears and 
levelled with the ground; at another 
they were engaged in a quarrel with a 
neighbouring town, or in a feud with 
their bishop, or even with the Empr. 
himself. On several occasions armies of 
20,000 men, composed of the levies of 
more than 100 different barons and 
towns, each marshalled under their- own 
banners, in vain laid siege to Spires, 
being repulsed by the bravery of the 
citizens. Now and then fortune de¬ 
clared against them, and they suffered 
from the plundering inroads of hostile 
armies. In the 14th cent, the city 
maintained in its pay an army of knights 
and soldiers, to whom it partly intrusted 
its defence, and whom it engaged to 
fight its battles. At length the Imperial 
edict, which abolished the right of private 
war, in 1530, restored peace to Germany. 
The Imperial Chamber , Reichs-Kammer- 
gericht, by which its enactments were 
enforced, and all infringements of them 
punished, was established at Spires. 
This tribunal, the paramount court of 






54? 


Rhenish Bavaria, route 1 02.—spires, cathedral. 


appeal in Germany, existed here 200 
years, until removed to Wetzlar 1689. 

The trade and prosperity of Spires 
began to decay in the 17 th cent. ; hut 
the final blow and the greatest injury 
was inflicted upon it by the atrocities of 
the French under Louis XIV., during 
the Orleans Succession War. In 1689 
the town was taken by the French, 
who shortly after issued a proclamation 
to the citizens, commanding them to 
quit it, with their wives and children, 
within the space of 6 days, and to be¬ 
take themselves into Alsace, Lorraine, 
or Burgundy, but upon pain of death 
not to cross the Rhine. To carry into 
execution this tyrannic edict, a provost- 
marshal, at the head of 40 assistant 
executioners, marched into the town; 
they bore about them the emblems of 
their profession, in the shape of a gal¬ 
lows and wheel, embroidered on their 
dress. On the appointed day the miser¬ 
able inhabitants - were driven out by 
beat of drum, like a flock of sheep. The 
French soldiers followed them, after 
having plundered everything in the de¬ 
serted town, which was then left to the 
tender mercies of executioners and in¬ 
cendiaries. In obedience to the com¬ 
mands of Montclair, the French com¬ 
mander, trains of combustibles were laid 
in the houses and lighted, and in a few 
hours the seven-and-forty streets of 
Spires were in a blaze. The conflagra¬ 
tion lasted 3 days and 3 nights ; but the 
destruction of the town did not cease 
even with this. Miners were incessantly 
employed in blowing up the houses, 
walls, fountains, and convents, so that 
the whole might be levelled with the 
dust and rendered uninhabitable. The 
Cathedral was dismantled, the graves of 
the Emprs. burst open and their re¬ 
mains scattered. For many years Spires 
lay a desolate heap of rubbish, until at 
last the impoverished inhabitants re¬ 
turned gradually to seek out the sites 
of their ancient dwellings. Since that 
time the town, although rebuilt, has 
never raised its head. 

This, however, was not the last of the 
calamities which this ill-fated city was 
destined to endure and from foes of the 
same nation. In 1793 the revolution¬ 
ary army under Custinc burst upon the 


town, and, after 6 different assaults, 
carried it by storm, and repeated all the 
wanton acts of atrocity and cruelty 
which their predecessors had enacted a 
century before. Previous to the siege 
of 1683 the town had 5 suburbs en¬ 
closed within ramparts, 13 gates, and 
64 towers of defence provided with ar¬ 
tillery. After twice suffering desola¬ 
tion so complete, it can hardly be ex¬ 
pected to display many marks of its 
antiquity and former splendour in its 
buildings. From 1794 to 1822 the 
cathedral was desecrated and tinned 
into a warehouse. In 1816, however, 
Spires came into the possession of the 
crown of Bavaria, and it was once more 
fitted for divine service, by King Maxi¬ 
milian of Bavaria; and his successor, 
the present king, has restored it with 
a splendour only equalled by the 
modern churches of Munich: with some 
injury, however, to the antique cha¬ 
racter of the edifice. 

The **Dom or Cathedral , whose twin 
towers present a noble appearance from 
the Rhine, is almost the only edifice 
which has bid defiance to the attempts 
to destroy it; the French undermined 
it, and tried to blow it up; but the 
venerable structure remained unshaken 
by the explosion. In point of dimen¬ 
sions it is perhaps the most stupendous 
building in the Romanesque style ex¬ 
isting. The 2 tall pointed towers and 
the semicircular termination at the E. 
end date from the 12th cent. : the 
crypt , under choir and transept, is pro¬ 
bably the only remaining portion of 
the original edifice, founded in 1027 by 
Conrad II. the Salic. The upper part 
of the church, as it now stands, arose 
after 1165, when a conflagration de¬ 
stroyed the earlier building. The W. 
front, tower 225 ft. high, and the 
Porch (Kaisers Halle) under it, were re¬ 
built 1854-58, by Hiibsch—and modern 
statues of the emperors interred here 
have been placed in it. All that was 
consumable in the W. end, cupola, nave, 
and choir, was burnt by the French, 
1689, although they had promised to 
respect the building, and had thereby 
induced the citizens to fill it with their 
valuable goods and chattels, which, 





548 


ROUTE 102. —SPIRES. PHILIPSBURG. 


Sect. VIII, 


after being plundered by the spoilers, 
served as fuel to assist in consuming it. 

The interior, originally severe in 
style of architecture and without orna¬ 
ment, has been decorated with frescoes 
by artists of the modern German 
school, including 30 large composi¬ 
tions by Joh. Schraudolph. The 
width (138 feet) and height (105 
ft.) of the nave strike the beholder. 
The ch. is 474 ft. long. In the King’s 
choir, between the nave and transept 
(or hauptchor), is the Imperial Vault , in 
which 8 Emperors of Germany were 
buried; among them Henry III., IV., 
and Y., Rudolph of Ilabsburg, Adolph 
of Nassau, and Albert of Austria. Since 
their graves were sacrilegiously broken 
open and plundered by the French in 
1689 and 1794, it is difficult to say who 
remains behind. The Empr. Charles VI., 
the last of the male line of Habsburg, 
caused search to be made for the bones of 
his ancestors; some were found and rein¬ 
terred, but to whom they belonged was 
not ascertained. The Duke of Nassau 
has raised to his ancestor Adolph a 
modern monument by Ohmacht; it con¬ 
sists of a kneeling figure of the Em¬ 
peror in armour, on a Byzantine sar¬ 
cophagus of black Nassau marble. 
A statue of Rudolph of Habsburg has 
been erected by King Lewis of Bavaria; 
executed by Schwanthaler of Munich. 
The 32 frescoes of scriptural and 
legendary subjects by Schraudolph and 
his scholars, covering the walls of choir 
and nave, are among the finest 
modern works in Germany. The 
Crypt , under the choir, supported by 
short massy columns, deserves a visit. 
Traces of the mines formed by the 
French in their ineffectual attempt 
to blow up the building may still be 
perceived here; and here is placed 
the original gravestone of Rudolph 
of Habsburg, bearing his effigy care¬ 
fully copied from the life. The 
font dates from the 9th or 10th 
cent. In the Sacristy are a set of 
priest’s robes of the 14th cent., beauti¬ 
fully embroidered with subjects from 
Scripture, figures of the apostles, &e.; 
they were brought from Aschaffen- 
burg. The treasures of the sacristy dis¬ 
appeared at the Revolution. In the 


Chapel of St. Afra, of which a beautiful 
fragment exists on the N. side of the 
building, the remains of the Empr. 
Henry IY. were laid by his faithful 
subjects, the citizens of Worms, and 
remained 5 years unburied, until the 
removal of the papal ban of excom¬ 
munication opened for him the Imperial 
vault. The Dom is surrounded by 
agreeable pleasure-grounds extending 
down to the Rhine; on the S. side is 
the Oelberg, an emblematical repre¬ 
sentation of the Mt. of Olives in stone, 
date 1441. Under the trees is a rude 
vase of sandstone (the Domnapf), which 
every new bishop, after pledging him¬ 
self to respect the liberties of the citi¬ 
zens, was, bound to fill with wine for 
them to drink. 

In the Hall of Antiquities , an open 
hall, N.E. side of the Dom, are de¬ 
posited Roman remains found in 
Rhenish Bavaria, chiefly at Rheinza- 
bern; pottery, with the moulds in 
which they were shaped, bas-reliefs 
in stone and terra-cotta, glass vessels, 
lamps, votive tablets, spear-heads, 
sword-blades, a bronze statue of Mer¬ 
cury, and the eagle of a Roman legion. 
Also, some mediaeval antiquities—a 
mutilated sculpture of the Mount of 
Olives, with scenes from the Passion; 
Gothic tracery and foliage in sandstone 
(1411), formerly in the cloisters. 

The broad Maximilian Strasse extends 
AY. from the Dom to the Alt Portal , an 
almost solitary relic of the old imperial 
city. 

A ruined and unsightly wall, near the 
Protestant church (built 1717), is the 
only remaining relic of the Petscher , or 
Imperial palace, in which 29 Diets 
were held. It will be remembered that 
the “ protest ” of the reformed princes 
and cities asserting the right of Reli¬ 
gious Liberty against the decree of the 
Diet held here in 1529 gave rise to 
the name of Protestant. 

There are pleasant walks round the 
town. 

A good road leads to Landau, and the 
Castle of Trifels , the prison of Richard 
Coeur-de-Lion, described in Rte. 104.] 

Following the Rhine, above Spires, 
i we pass (rt.) Philipsburg, named after 


( 







liken. Bavaria, r. 103. manniieim to Paris.— 104. to strasburg. 549 


Philip von Sotern, Arclibp. of Spires, 
who founded it at the beginning of the 
Thirty Years’ War; it was formerly a 
fortress of the empire, and makes an 
important figure in the campaigns of 
Turenne. Its works were razed in 
1800. Marshal Berwick was killed 
under its walls, 1734. Large and un¬ 
wholesome morasses, below the level of 
the Ehine, overspread the country. The 
Ely. is carried to 

2 1. Germersheim Stat.— Inn , a filthy 
hole, not fit for a dog. It is a mile 
distant from the Ehine. This is a 
miserable small town of 2000 Inhab., 
of which a barrack and a church spire 
rising above the ramparts are alone 
visible from the river. It was founded 
by the Empr. Eudolph of Habsburg, 
who died here, 1291. It is converted 
into a Fortress of the German Confe¬ 
deration, and strong military defences 
have been in progress since 1834. 

There is a gold-washery here, in the 
sands of the Ehine. Ducats of Ehine 
gold are not uncommon in Baden. 

Bridge of boats over the Ehine here. 

Omnibus to Landau in 2f hrs. 

1. Near Lauterberg, the Lauter river 
enters the Ehine, the boundary (since 
1815) between Alsace and the Palatinate. 

rt. Leopoldshafen (formerly called 
Schrbck), a poor village without proper 
accommodation for travellers. 

rt. Knielingen (Thw, Zum Eheinbad). 
Bail connecting Carlsruhe with Wenden 
Stat. by floating bridge at Maxau. 

Here is a villa of Margrave Max, of 
Baden. The rt. bank of the Ehine, all 
along the territory of Baden and Darm¬ 
stadt, is lined with stone dykes, for the 
protection of the banks. More than 
100,000 acres of good meadow-land 
have thus been gained. 

rt. Iffetsheim, 6 m. from Baden Baden. 

1. Fort Louis, a fortress raised by 
Yauban, on an island, taken and razed 
by the Austrians 1793. The spire of 
Strasburg is visible from this (27 m. 
off) in clear weather ; and perhaps the 
best view of it is from the Ehine, higher 
up. Like Mt. Blanc, its height is not 
appreciated when you are near it. 

A small quantity of gold is found in 
the sand and gravel of the Ehine in 
this part of its course. A few persons 
occupy themselves in gold-washing, but i 


the gain is small and very precarious. 
It occurs chiefly along the banks. 

1. Strasburg. In Ete. 107. 

1. Below the bridge of Kehl a canal 
opens into the Ehine, connecting 
it with the Ill, and enabling steamers 
to penetrate into the heart of Strasburg. 


EOUTE 103. 

MANNHEIM (LUDWIGSHAFEN) TO METZ 

AND PARIS, BV HOMBURG, KAISERSLAU¬ 
TERN, SAARBRuCKEN, AND FORBACII: 

RAILWAY OF THE PALATINATE. 

18'| Germ. m. to Forbach. 

This Railway —the Pfalzer-Ludwigs- 
eisenbahn—was opened 1847, 48, and 
54. Terminus at Ludwigshafen on 1. 
bank of the Ehine, opposite Mannheim. 
Trains 3 or 4 times a day, in 54 hrs. 
Fast trains in 18 hrs. to Paris. A tra¬ 
veller familiar with the Ehine may 
agreeably vary his route by going from 
Mannheim to Treves, and descending 
the Moselle. 

Mutterstadt Stat. 

Schifferstadt Junction Stat. Here a 
branch Eailway diverges (1.) to Spires. 

Hasloch Stat. 

4 Neustadt Junct. Stat. Hence a Ely. 
branches to Edenkoben and Landau 
(Ete. 104). The Ely. now enters the 
Haardt mountains, and penetrates for 
6 m. up the narrow winding valley of 
the Speierbach, through whose red sand¬ 
stone rocks 11 short tunnels have been 
driven. 

Frankenstein Stat. 

8^ Kaiserslautern Stat. 

104 Landstuhl Stat. 

114 Bruchmuhlbach Stat. 

The road quits the Bavarian territory 
and enters that of Prussia. 

13 Hamburg Stat. (See Ete. 101.) A 
productive coalfield is reached near 

Bexbach Stat. 

15f Neunkirchen Junct. Stat. 

(Jochum’s Inn). Rig. down the Nahe 
to Kreutznach and Bingen (Ete. 100). 

174 Saarbriichen J"nct. Stat. — Rail¬ 
way to Treves (Etes. 100, 100 a). 

18| Forbach Stat. on French frontier. 

Metz Stat. \ In Handbook of 

I Paris Terminus. I France. 


) See Ete. 
101 . 




550 


ROUTE 104.— DURKHEIM. NEUSTADT. 


Sect. VIII. 


KOUTE 104. 

MAYENCE TO STRASBURG, BY MANNHEIM, 

NEUSTADT, AND LANDAU—RAILWAY. 

EXCURSIONS TO DURKHEIM, ANN- 

WEILER, AND TRIFELS. 

15 Germ. m. = 69 Eng. m. 

Trains in 6 to 8 hrs. 

Mayence to Mannheim Ely. (Ete. 

102 ). 

To Neustadt Junct. Stat., seeEte. 103. 

[The circle of the Eliine (Rhein Kreis) 
includes much pleasing scenery among 
the chains of the Haardt and Vosges 
mountains, and many old towns and 
castles, interesting from their history. 
The following route, not much traversed 
hitherto by English travellers, lays open 
some of the most interesting objects 
in this part of the country, and will 
conduct to the prison of Eichard Coeur- 
de-Lion, an object of interest for all 
Englishmen. They must not expect 
to meet with a good road, or very capi¬ 
tal accommodation off the Eailway. 

From Mannheim as far as 

Oggersheim Stat. (Inn : Pfalzer Hof). 
Here is a plush-mill. See Ete. 102. 

[Either from Oggersheim, or better 
still from Ludwigshaven, (rail, distance 
12 m.), an excursion may be made to 

Durkheim. — (Inn, Vier Jahrer- 
zeiten ; H. Hausling, warm and cold 
baths. This town, of 7500 Inhab., was 
once the residence of the Princes of 
Leiningen-Hartenburg, whose palace 
was burnt by the French, 1794; it was 
originally a strong fortress, but its works 
have long since been razed. It is now 
chiefly remarkable as a place of resort 
for invalids, who take the grape-cure 
(Trauben-Kur), and for its agreeable 
situation at the foot of the hills on 
the skirts of the plain of the Ehine, and 
at the entrance of the valley of the Isen- 
ach, up which runs the road to Kaisers¬ 
lautern, and for its pleasing environs. 
The chief beauties of the Eheinpfalz 
begin at Durkheim, on the borders of 
the Haardtgebirge. The proper way 
•—indeed the only one—to explore its 
heights and valleys is on foot, guided 
by a good map—such as Eeizmann’s 
map of Germany, sheets 199 and 218, 
price 15 S. gr. each. 

Within a short distance lie the salt¬ 


works of Phillipshall. The summit ot 
the nearest height, the Kastanienberg, 
is crowned by the Heidenmauer (Pa- 
.gan’s Wall), a rampart of loose stones 
8 to 10 ft. high, 60 or 70 wide at the 
base, enclosing a space of about 2 m. 
The Eomans are said to have built it to 
keep in check the barbarians: and 
Attila is reported to have passed the 
winter in it, after having expelled the 
Eomans, and when on his way to take 
possession of Eome itself. It has given 
a name to a novel of Cooper, the Amer¬ 
ican. Near it is the Devil’s Stone , a 
natural rock, bearing the impression of 
a gigantic paw, on which the pagans 
are said to have sacrificed. A pleasing- 
view from it over the plain of the Pala¬ 
tinate, along the Ehine and Neckar as 
far as Heidelberg, and the near prospect 
of fertile and industrious valleys. 

At the entrance of the Isenach- 
thal, at the top of a hill nearly en¬ 
circled by the stream, stand the grace¬ 
ful ruins of the Abbey of Limburg, 
with its vast romanesque church, 
founded 1029, by Conrad the Salique, 
in the style of the Dom of Spires, and 
destroyed by the Swedes 1632. The 
height on which it stands commands fine 
views, and is now converted into gar¬ 
dens. A eh. tower (a good point of 
view), a crypt and part of the cloister 
remain. Within sight of the ruins of 
the abbey are those of Hartenburg , the 
castle of the Counts of Leiningen, its 
greatest enemies, who were engaged in 
constant feuds with the monks, and 
burnt the abbey in the 15th cent. One 
of the Eaugrafs of Hartenburg, having- 
made the abbot his prisoner, built his 
head into the wall of the castle, with 
his face towards the ahbey, that he 
might see the conflagration of it. 

The railroad from Durkheim to Neu- 
stadt (9 m.) passes by Wachenheim 
Stat., Forst, and 

Deidesheim Stat. (Inn, Baierischer 
Hof), all famous for the wines produced 
in the neighbouring vineyards. It is a 
most delightful ride. Geologists will 
remark with interest the eruption of 
basalt, proceeding from the mountain 
called Pechstein-Kopf : the basalt as¬ 
sumes the shape of balls.] 

Neustadt an der Haardt. Junct. Stat. 

•— Inns: Lowe, near the Ely.; Krone. 




Rhenish Bavaria, route 104.— l. 

This town of 8000 Inlmb. is old and un¬ 
inviting within, but its situation at the 
foot of the Haardt mountains is delight¬ 
ful. Its Church , finished in the 14-tli 
cent., contains monuments of the 
Pfalz graves. In the fore-court, called the 
Paradise , some remains of ancient fresco 
paintings may be traced. The neigh¬ 
bourhood abounds in ruined castles, 
many being reduced to their present con¬ 
dition in the Peasants’ War (1525). 

Railroads to Metz and Paris by For- 
bach, to Kaiserslautern and Saarbriick- 
on, to Weissemburg and Strasburg. 

On the hill above the town rise the 
ivy-clad ruins of the Castle Winzingen , 
called Haardter Schlosschen (originally 
the summer residence of the Electors 
Palatine, now attached to a modern 
villa), and Wolfsburg, destroyed in the 
Thirty Years’ War. It commands a 
fine view, extending as far as Heidel¬ 
berg castle. About 2 m. S. of Neustadt 
is the Maxburg , formerly Castle of 
Hambach , built by the Emp. Henry IV., 
who is said to have set out from hence 
on his disgraceful pilgrimage to Pome 
barefoot, in 1077, to appease the anger 
of the haughty Pope Hildebrand. It 
was presented to King Maximilian II. of 
Bavaria, on his marriage, by the Rhein- 
kreis, and he has built a modern castle 
6n the old foundations, part of which 
are Roman probably. View fine, but 
inferior to that from the Madenburg. 

Near Neustadt very extensive quar¬ 
ries are excavated in the Buntersand- 
stein and Muschelkalk ; the latter 
abounds in fossils. The railroad passes 

Edenkoben Stat. (Inn, Schaaf, good), 
a town of 4500 Inhab., surrounded by 
vineyards, producing a wine of inferior 
quality. Near it is the Royal Villa 
Ludwigshohe, and the ch. and tower of 
the ruined convent Heilsbruck. 

The Queich, which formed the ancient 
boundary between the Palatinate and 
Alsatia, and was defended by ramparts 
called the Landau lines, is crossed. 

Landau Stat.— Inns : Schwan; Pfitl- 
zer Hof. This strong fortress of the 
Germanic Confederation (more than a 
mile from the Stat.), is occupied by 
a garrison of 4500 Bavarians, and num¬ 
bers 11,000 Inhab. It is situated on the 
Queich, which fills its fosse with water. 


NDAU. ANNWEILER. 551 

It has been an object of contest in 
every great European war from the 
15th cent., and consequently its his¬ 
tory is nothing but a succession of 
sieges, blockades, bombardments, cap¬ 
tures, and surrenders. During the 
Thirty Years’ War it was taken 8 times, 
by the troops of Count Mansfeldt, by 
the Spaniards, Swedes, Imperialists, 
and French. In the 17th cent, it fell 
into the hands of the French, was for¬ 
tified by Vauban, and was considered 
impregnable until 1702, when it was 
taken by Margrave Lewis of Baden. 
From 1713 to 1815 it remained in the 
hands of the French. It stood a siege 
of 9 months in 1793, in the course of 
which 30,000 shells, &c., were thrown 
into it. In the following year the pow¬ 
der magazine blew up. On the tower 
of the arsenal (a desecrated ch.), hangs 
the tin cap of liberty, painted red, 
stuck up by the French, 1793. The only 
church is decorated (?) with a monument 
to the Baron de Montclair. The gates of 
the fortress are shut at an early hour. 

[An agreeable excursion may be made 
to the Madenburg , 8 m., near Eschbach 
(Gunter’s Inn), the most perfect castle 
in the Rheinpfalz, which long was the 
property of the Archbishops of Spires, 
ruined by the French 1689. The view 
from it is the finest in the district. A 
guide should be engaged at Eschbach 
to cross the hills to Trifels, 5 m. to the 
E. The walk from it through the 
woods to Annweiler, taking Trifels by 
the way, is about 8 m. 

The post-road from Landau to Zwei- 
briicken runs up the pretty valley of the 
Queich, a beautiful pass of the Vosges, to 

1^ Annweiler.— Inns , Post*—Trifels. 
This is a town of 2600 Inhab,, on 
the Queich. The ruined castle of 
Trifels, memorable as the prison 
of Richard Cceur-de-Lion, is 5 m. 
distant. It is now a total ruin. It 
occupies the summits of three dis¬ 
tinct conical rocks, as its name im¬ 
plies, called Trifels, Anebos, and Schar- 
fenburg. An agreeable path, 1^ hr.’s 
walk, leads up to it from the town. 
The chief remains are a tower, of large 
blocks of stones 80 ft. high. The sub¬ 
terranean dungeon, in which, according 
to tradition, he was confined, and 





552 


ROUTE 105. —FRANKFURT TO BASLE. 


Sect. VIII. 


watched night and day by guards with 
drawn swords, is still pointed out. After 
being captured by his treacherous ene¬ 
my, Leopold of Austria, on his return 
from the Holy Land, Richard was sold 
by him for 30,000 marks of silver to the 
Emp. Henry VI., who basely detained 
him a prisoner from 1192 to 1194. It 
was probably beneath these walls that 
the song of the faithful minstrel Blon- 
dcl first succeeded in discovering the 
prison of his master, by procuring the 
vocal response from the royal trou¬ 
badour. In 1193 his jailor, the Emp., 
brought Richard in chains before the 
Diet at Hagenau, to answer the charge 
of the murder of Conrad of Montferrat, 
which he repelled with such manly and 
persuasive eloquence, so clearly proving 
his innocence, that the Diet at once ac¬ 
quitted him, and ordered his chains to 
he knocked off. In 1194 he was re¬ 
leased from Trifels in consideration of 
a ransom of 130,000 marks of silver. 

The castle of Trifels stands on the 
summit of a singular mountain of 
sandstone (Buntersandstein) called the 
Sonnenberg, 1422 ft. above the sea- 
level. It was a favourite residence of 
the German emperors, and must have 
been a place of great magnificence as 
well as strength. Frederick Barba- 
rossa, and many of his predecessors and 
successors, held their court here, and 
the Regalia of the empire were depo¬ 
sited within its walls for security. It 
was also used as a state prison for many 
unfortunate captives besides Richard of 
England. Taken by the Swedes in the 
Thirty Years’ War, it has remained a 
ruin, hut has something imposing even 
in its present state. The chapel has 
been stripped, and the marble pillars 
removed from it to the ch. of Ann- 
weiler. On the top of Scharfenburg 
rises a tower 100 ft. high; the ditch 
around it is hewn out of the rock. 

Annweiler contains nothing remark¬ 
able, hut the scenery of the valley of 
the Queich, for 12 m. above it, should 
not he left unseen. The scenery be¬ 
tween Annweiler and Dahn is particu¬ 
larly interesting from the extraordinary 
forms assumed by the sandstone rocks 
(Buntersandstein), which have been 
split and fissured in all directions. At 


Willgartswiesen (Tun, Lamm; good and 
cheap), (j to 8 m., is a pretty modern 
Ch. with twin towers. A walk of 2 
hrs. by Hauen stein, with a guide, 
brings you to Dahn (Ain, Pfalz, St. 
George), near which rises the over¬ 
hanging rock called Jungfernsprung.] 
Railway: Landau to Strasburg. 
Winden Junct. Stat. This is the stat. 
for Berg-Zabern, [Bi’anch Rly. to Carls- 
ruhe, crossing the Rhine at Maxau.] 
Schaidt Stat. Here is the Bavarian 
customhouse. The Lauter forms the 
boundary of Bavaria and France, and 
is crossed before reaching 

Weissenburg Stat., a town of 6000 
Inhab. (Inn: H. do l’Ange),—a for¬ 
tress down to 1868,—has a fine Gothic 
ch., SS. Peter and Paid, of 13th centy. 
The rly. traverses the famous Lines of 
Marshal Villars, formed 1704, to defend 
the course of the Lauter, and extend¬ 
ing from the hill of the Pigeonnier or 
Scherold, 1 m. from the town, rt. of the 
road to Bitche, E. as far as Lauterburg. 
The view from its top is very interest¬ 
ing. The parapets and redoubts have 
now fallen to decay, hut in 1793 they 
were held by the Austrians, until Gen. 
Hoche carried the position at the point 
of the bayonet. In 1870 the Prussians 
surprised a French division and drove 
them out of the position of the Geis- 
berg with great slaughter. 

Soultz-sous-Foret. Stat. 

Walburg Stat. Through forests. 
Hagenau Junct. Stat. (Inn, Post), a 
walled town of 11,000 Inhab. (3000 
Jews), once a free city of the German 
Empire. The Ch. of St. George dates 
partly from 13th cent. Pail to Forbach. 
Bischweiler Stat. Cloth-mills. 
Wendenheim Junct. Stat. on the line 
from Paris to Strasburg. (Hbk. France.') 
Strasburg Terminus. (Rte. 107.) 


ROUTE 105. 

FRANKFURT TO B4.SLE, BY DARMSTADT, 
THE BERGSTRASSE AND ODENWALD, 
HEIDELBERG, CARLSRUHE, AND FREI¬ 
BURG.—RAILWAY. 

Frankfurt to Heidelberg or Mann¬ 
heim 7 trains daily—express in 2£ lirs., 





H. Darmstadt. 


ROUTE 105.- 

slow train. 4^, by the Main-Neckar 
Eisenbahn , 55 E. m. 

Heidelberg to Basle, in 7 hrs., by 
the Badische Staatsbahn. —35 Germ. m. 
= 160 E. m. 

Terminus in Frankfurt outside the 
Gallus Thor. 

The line crosses the Main at Frank¬ 
furt by an iron bridge, and passes 1. on 
the height the watch-tower of Sachsen- 
hausen , whence the view over Frank¬ 
furt, the Main, the distant Taunus, and 
the immediate foreground of neat villas 
and vineyards is very pleasing. At 
Sachsenhausen the railway to Offenbach 
turns off to the E. 

Langen Stat. The country, as far as 
Darmstadt, is flat and uninteresting. 

Cross the Illy, from Mayence to 
Darmstadt and Aschaffenburg. 

Darmstadt Junct. Stat. — Inns: 
Darmstadter Hof; Traube (Bunch of 
Grapes); Kohler’s, near the rly. stat., out¬ 
side the Rheinthor. Darmstadt, the capi¬ 
tal of the Grand Duchy of Hesse Darm¬ 
stadt, the residence of the Grand Duke, 
and seat of the government and cham¬ 
bers, has a Pop. of 35,000 (chiefly Pro¬ 
testants). It is a dull, uninteresting 
town, which need not detain the tra¬ 
veller long. The appearance of tor¬ 
pidity is increased by the extent of 
surface over which it is spread. The 
streets are straight and very wide, the 
squares numerous; and many of the 
houses are built singly. The old 
town, with its dark and confined 
streets, is very properly kept in 
the background, and none of the 
great thoroughfares pass through 
it. Near the end of the Rheinstrasse, 
leading from the railway, rises a Column , 
134 ft. high, surmounted by a statue of 
the Grand Duke Louis, founder of the 
new town, by Schwanthaler. 

The Catholic Ch. built by Moller, a 
native architect, is worth notice. Its 
exterior is of brick; the interior, a ro¬ 
tunda, 173 ft. in diameter and 123 ft. 
high, suiTounded by pillars, 50 ft. high, 
is imposing, though simple. See monu¬ 
ment to the late Grand Duchess Ma- 
thilde, by Widnmann. 

The New Palace of no great archi¬ 
tectural pretensions, next door to the 
[n. g.] 


•DARMSTADT. 553 

Traube Hotel is used only for balls and 
fetes. 

The Old Palace (Altes Schloss) is the 
residence of the Grand Duke. It is a 
sort of castle of various ages, from 
the 16th to the 18th ; still sur¬ 
rounded by a dry ditch, now con¬ 
verted into a shrubbery and garden. It 
contains likewise the Museum of Paint¬ 
ings and of Natural History. Among 
the 700 pictures which fill the gallery, 
the following seem best worth notice :— 
The Purification of the Virgin, by 
William of Cologne , a rare master.— 
Sclioreel, the Death of the Virgin.— L. 
Cranach , portrait of Albert of Branden¬ 
burg, Abp. of Mayence, as St. Jerome 
with his lion; and of Luther and his 
Wife;—Portraits of Louis XIV. and 
XV., Cardinal Mazarin, Maria Lec- 
zinsky, Marie Antoinette, Cardinal 
Fleury, and Madame du Barry, by 
French artists. —In the Dutch School: 
Sdial ken, portrait of William III. of 
England.— Vandgh , Virgin and Child ; 
sketch of the portrait of Lord Pem¬ 
broke.— P. Potter (?), Cow and Herd, 
with a horn.— Echliout , a Man’s Head. 
— Teniers , Peasants, — P. de Hooge, 
Dutchman and his Wife.— Pembrandt , 
portrait of his Second Wife.— Italian 
School: P' Veronese, sketch of the great 
picture in the Louvre of the Marriage 
in Cana.— Titian (?), a Venus (doubt¬ 
ful).— Velasquez , a Child in a white 
frock. — Domenichino , David and Na¬ 
than.— Piaphael (?), St. John in the 
Wilderness, varying slightly from the 
paintings of the same subject at Flo¬ 
rence, and in the Stafford gallery ; the 
Archangel Michael. St. Genoveva by 
a modern German artist, Steinbruck 
There is some very good painted 
glass in this gallery, and numerous 
antique ivory carvings, enamels, &c. 
In the Collection of Coins are many of 
the thin and barbarous Bractcatse of the 
middle ages. 

Museum of Natural History. The 
most valuable and interesting part of 
this collection are the fossils, found in 
the neighbourhood of the Rhine, such 
as remains of the whale and elephant, 
some from the bed of the Rhine : very 
perfect skulls, and other bones of 

2 B 



554 


ROUTE 105. — ODENWALD. 


Sect. VIII. 


rhinoceros from Oppenheim; of Sus 
antiquus and Mastodon from Eppels- 
heim : perfect jaws and other remains 
of the Dinotherium. These unequalled 
specimens were found in sandpits at 
Eppelsheim, near Alzei, along with 
marine shells. The fossils of this mu¬ 
seum have been described in a work 
published by Dr. Kaup. The Palace 
also contains a good Public Library of 
200,000 vols.; the inhabitants of the 
town are allowed to take hooks home. 

Near to the Catholic ch. is the palace 
built by Queen Victoria, at a cost of 
20,000/., for Prince Louis and the 
English Princess Alice. In the Palace 
of Prince Carl is the very fine picture 
by Holbein of the Holy Family, with 
portraits of the Meyer family of Bale ; 
a replica, with variations of his famous 
picture at Dresden, by some thought to 
be superior to it. 

The Theatre (Hof-Opernhaus), near 
the Palace, was built in 1819 from the 
designs of Moller. 

Near the theatre is the Exerzier 
Haus (Drilling House), a sort of 
large riding-school. It was built for 
the purpose of drilling the garrison 
under cover in bad weather, and is re¬ 
markable for the great size of its roof 
157 ft. broad, and 319 ft. long; con¬ 
structed, it is said, by a common car¬ 
penter, after architects of pretension 
had declared the task impossible. The 
building now serves as a depot for 
artillery. 

The Gardens of the Palace (Bosquet, 
or Herrngarten) are very prettily laid 
out, but sadfy neglected; one lofty white 
poplar is remarkable; within them is the 
grave of Margravine Henrietta Caro¬ 
line, a Prussian princess. The spot 
was chosen by herself in her lifetime, 
and Frederick the Great engraved upon 
her urn the words, “ Sexu foemina, 
ingenio vir.” 

The landlord of the inn will intro¬ 
duce the traveller to the Casino club. 
The House of Commons of the duchy 
assembles under the same roof, and, 
at particular seasons, balls, concerts, 
and assemblies take place in it. 

There is very little commerce at 
Darmstadt; the inhabitants depend in 
a great measure on the court. A mile 


or two out of the town is the preserve, 
where wild boars are kept for the ducal 
chasse. Strangers are often taken in 
the evening to see the animals fed. 
Kranichstein , a shooting seat, 3 m. dis¬ 
tant, is the summer residence of the 
Grand Duke. Pretty walks lead to it. 

Railways to Mayence (4^ Germ, m.), 
by Gross-Gerau, crossing the Bhino 
by a bridge (Rtc. 99 a) ;—to Aschaf- 
fenburg and Wurzburg (S. Germany). 
To Gernsheim and Worms (Ried Bahn). 

Eberstadt Stat. A little beyond this 
(1.) is the ruined castle of Frankenstein. 

The picturesque district called the 
Odenwald (forest of Odin) begins a 
few m. S. of Darmstadt, not far from 
this station. It lies to the E. of the 
railroad and of the high road to Hei¬ 
delberg, and some of its most inter¬ 
esting scenes, particularly the Melibo- 
cus, may be visited on the way thither. 
The entire excursion may not suit the 
taste or convenience of all travellers; but 
the ascent of the Melibocus mountain 
cannot fail of affording gratification by 
its fine panoramic view. 

[A very good but hilly road leads 
from Darmstadt to Heidelberg, through 
the heartof the Odenwald, amid scenery 
of great interest. The stats, are Brens- 
bach, Erbach (see next page), and 
Hirschhorn. The distance, 55 m. The 
best sleeping place is Michelstadt, but as 
the Inn (Lion) is not good it is better 
to push on.] 

The Railroad, for the greater part 
of the way, runs near the old post-road 
from Darmstadt to Heidelberg, which 
is celebrated for its beauty. It is called 
Pergstrasse (mountain road, from the 
Latin strata montana f although, in fact, 
perfectly level), because it runs along 
the base of a range of hills, which 
form the E. boundary of the valley of 
the Rhine. Its chief beauty arises 
from the fertility and high cultivation 
of the district it overlooks, rich in its 
luxuriant vegetation of vines and maize, 
enlivened by glimpses of the Rhine, 
and bounded by the outline of the 
Vosges mountains in France. (1.) The 
wooded and vine-covered range of 
mountains, with their old castles, form¬ 
ing the boundary of the Odenwald, 




555 


II. Darmstadt, route 105. —the 

runs parallel with the railroad and at 
a short distance from it; rt. stretches 
a vast sandy flat, through which the 
Rhine wanders, bounded by the 
heights of Mont Tonnerre and the 
Vosges at 50 or 60 m. distance. * The 
villages and towns are beautifully 
situated at the foot of the mountains, 
overhung by vine-covered slopes, and 
embosomed in orchards, which extend 
in cheerful avenues along the road from 
one town to another. “Almost every 
mountain of the Bergstrasse, and many 
of those in the Odenwald, are crowned 
by a castle ; which, embosomed in the 
woods of beech, or surrounded by 
vineyards, adds the interest of its anti 
quity and chivalrous associations to the 
charms of the landscape.” — Autumn 
near the Rhine. 

Zwingenberg Stat. close under the 
woody Melibocus. 1 hr/s walk to the 

top. 

[Those who wish to ascend the Meli¬ 
bocus should leave the railroad here 
(/nw, Lowe). Take refreshments with 
you—none are to he had above—and 
ask for the key of the tower. The visit, 
including ascent and descent by Schloss 
Auerbach, the best way to return to 
the road, occupies 3 hrs. walking. 
The tower alone commands the view 
on the side of the Odenwald, over its 
forest-clad hills; the keys are kept at 
Auerbach, and at Alsbach. The whole 
excursion to the Melibocus, Felsherg, 
Felsenmeer, and through the valley of 
Schonberg back to Auerbach and 
Zwingenberg, occupies about 6 hrs. 

The Melibocus , or Malchen , is a 
conical hill of granite, 1632 Paris ft. 
above the sea: it is the highest of 
the Odenwald chain of hills, and is 
conspicuous far and wide, on account 
of the white tower on its top, erected 
1772, as a Belvedere. The view from 
it is most extensive, owing to the vast 
expanse of flat in the valley of the Rhine 
below. “ The more distant objects are, 
Spires, and Mannheim with its slated 
dome, to the 1.; Worms and its Gothic 
cathedral, opposite; and the dark 
towers of Mayence, lower down. The 
tower is built on the very edge of the 
declivity. The smoking villages, the 
gardens, vineyards, and orchards of the 


MELIBOCUS. EltBACH. 

Bergstrasse, appeared immediately be¬ 
neath us. We traced the course of the 
Rhine, which now gleamed in the 
bright sun, and appeared little removed 
from the base of the mountain, from 
above Mannheim, almost to Bingen, a 
distance of nearly 60 Eng. m. At 
Bingen it loses itself in the defiles of the 
Rheingau mountains, which bound the 
view on that side. The course of the 
placid Neckar and its junction with the 
Rhine are very visible, as also that of 
the Main. By the help of a good tele¬ 
scope, in a clear day, you may distin¬ 
guish the tower of Strasburg cathedral, 
at a distance of above 100 Eng. m. 
Towards the N. the view reaches the 
mountains in the neighbourhood of 
Giessen, in Hesse, 60 m. distant. To 
the E. lies the Odenwald, over the 
chaotic wooded hills of which the pro¬ 
spect stretches as far as the vicinity of 
Wurzburg—a distance of 60 or 70 m.; 
while on the W., across the Rhine, the 
eye ranges over the smooth plain, till 
it is bounded by the blue broken tops 
of the Mont Tonnerre and the Yosges 
mountains, at a nearly equal distance.” 
Autumn near the Rhine. - ] 

[Those who intend to extend their 
walk through the Odenwald continue 
by a convenient path to another moun¬ 
tain, the Felsberg, 3 m. off, surmounted 
by a hunting-lodge (Jagerhaus), which 
also commands a fine view. The valley 
which separates it from the Melibocus 
is one of the wildest in the Odenwald. 
A little way from the Jagerhaus, on 
the declivity of the hill, by the side of 
the path leading to Reichenbach, lies 
the Riesensaule (Giant’s Column), a gi¬ 
gantic column of hard syenite, similar 
to the rock of which the mountain is 
composed, and without doubt quar¬ 
ried on the spot; it is about 30 ft. 
long, nearly 4 in diameter, and taper¬ 
ing towards one end. Its origin and 
use are unknown, but it must be of 
great antiquity. Not far off lies a 
vast block of the same stone, called 
Riesenaltar , bearing on it incisions and 
marks of the saw. The appearance of 
these vestiges of human power and art 
in the depths of a sequestered forest is 
peculiarly striking, and not easily ac¬ 
counted for. Some have supposed that 

2 b 2 





556 ROUTE 105.— ERBACH. CASTLE OF RODENSTEIN. Sect. VIII. 


they are of German origin, and were 
intended to form part of a temple of 
Odin. It is more probable that they 
are the work of Roman artificers, 
during the time they were established 
in this part of Germany, which was 
included in the Agri Decumates. It 
was at one time proposed to erect the 
column on the field of Leipzig, as a 
monument of that victory—a project 
more easily started than executed. 

The Felsenmeer (Sea of Rocks) is a 
singular accumulation of fragments of 
syenite, some of vast size, heaped upon 
one another, and extending from near 
the top of the Felsberg almost to 
Reichenbach. They are of the same 
kind of rock as the mountain itself, so 
cannot have been transported from a 
distance. They appear like an avalanche 
of stones, hurled by some convulsion of 
nature from the summit. 

From this point again the traveller 
has the choice either of returning to 
Zwingenberg Station, by way of 
Reichenbach and Auerbach, or of 
proceeding about 18 m. from Auer¬ 
bach, along a tolerable road, passing 
through Schonberg, Reichenbach, the 
hill of Winterkasten, and Reichels- 
heim, to Erbach (Inns: Burg Wilden- 
stein; Krone). This small town is 
situated in a valley lying upon the 
new red sandstone (Buntersandstein) 
and muschelkalk of geologists. 

The Castle of the Counts of Erbach , 
a modern building, erected on the site 
of an ancient baronial residence, the 
greater part of which, except the 
donjon tower, was removed in the last 
cent., contains a very interesting Ar¬ 
moury , highly deserving of a visit. 
There are many suits, arranged, some 
on horseback, in the attitude of the 
tournament, others on foot. The 
history of every one is known: many 
have belonged to ancestors of the 
family, others have been worn by robber 
knights (Raubritter), not a few of 
whom expiated their crimes on the 
wheel or scaffold. Those which have 
a more general historical interest are, 
the suits of Philip the Good of Bur¬ 
gundy, the Empr. Frederick III., 
Maximilian I. of Austria, Gian Gia¬ 
como Medici, Margrave Albert of 


Brandenburg, Gustavus Adolphus, and 
Wallenstein. The last two, with many 
other suits in the collection, were 
brought from the arsenal at Nurem¬ 
berg. Here is besides the panoply of 
Franz of Sickingen, and his friend 
Gotz of Berlichingen, with the iron 
hand, brought from Heilbronn, and a 
small suit made for Thomele, the dwarf 
of the Archduke Ferdinand of Austria, 
and worn by him on some festive occa¬ 
sion when he was presented in a pie to 
the company seated at table. There 
are other curiosities in the castle, such 
as fire-arms of various periods, painted 
glass, antiques, vases, &c.; in short, it 
is highly worthy of a visit from 
strangers. In the chapel is the coffin 
in which Eginhard, secretary and son- 
in-law of Charlemagne, and the faith¬ 
ful Emma his wife, were buried; it 
was removed from the church in Seli- 
genstadt in 1810. Eginhard was an 
ancestor of the Erbach family. 

Erbach is connected by a very good 
post-road with Darmstadt; the dis¬ 
tance is 5^ Germ, m., and the country 
is very beautiful. There is also a way 
from Erbach to Heidelberg by Beer- 
felden and Eberbach on the Neckar, 
from whence the descent of that river 
may be made in a boat, or the road 
along the banks may be followed. 

About 9 m. N.W. from Erbach, 
between Reichelsheim and Bilstein, and 
near the former place, in a wild and 
secluded mountain district, surrounded 
by forests, lies the Castle of Rodenstein , 
the seat of the singular superstition of 
the wild Jtiger, the Knight of Roden¬ 
stein, who, issuing from out the ruined j 
walls of the neighbouring castle of 
Schnellert, his usual abode, announces 
the approach of war by traversing the 
air with a noisy cavalcade, to the Castle 
of Rodenstein, situated on a solitary 
mountain opposite. “ The strange 
noises heard on the eve of battles are 
authenticated by affidavits preserved in 
the village of Reichelsheim; some are 
of so recent a date as 1743 and 1796, 
and there are persons who profess to 
have been convinced by their eyes as 
well as their ears. in this manner 
the people assert that they were forc- 
waimed of the victories of Leipzig and 







STARKENBURG. 


5 61 


11. Darmstadt, route 105. —aUErbach. 


Waterloo. If the spectral host return 
at once to Schnellert, nothing mate¬ 
rial occurs; hut if the huntsman tarry 
with his train, then some momentous 
event, threatening evil and calamity 
to Germany, is expected by the people 
to occur. The flying army of Roden- 
stein may probably he owing to a simple 
cause. The power of the wind is very 
great, and its roar singularly solemn 
and sonorous, in these vast districts of 
forest. In the pine forests it some¬ 
times tears up thousands of trees in a 
night.”— Autumn near the Rhine. 

The legend of the Wild Huntsman 
has been attributed, with some proba¬ 
bility, to another cause—the passage 
at night of vast flocks of the larger 
birds of passage, as cranes, storks, &c., 
through the air in their annual migra¬ 
tions. The rustling of so many wings, 
and the wild cries of the fowl, heard 
in the darkness of night and in the 
solitude of the forest, may easily have 
furnished the superstitious peasant with 
the idea of the aerial huntsman and 
his pack. Since the dissolution of the 
German empire, the spectre, it is said, 
has given up his nocturnal chase; at 
least, the inhabitants of the farm-house 
standing directly under the Itodenstein 
have not, for many years, been dis¬ 
turbed by noise or sight that can he 
traced to a ghostly origin. 

There is a road from Reichelsheim 
by Fiirth to Weinheim Stat. on the 
Bergstrasse.] 

The Railroad runs nearly parallel 
with the Bergstrasse from Darmstadt 
to Weinheim, where it diverges to 
cross the Neckar at Ladenburg, be¬ 
yond which it joins the railroad be¬ 
tween Mannheim and Heidelberg half¬ 
way between those towns. 

Auerbach Stat. [Inns: Krone (Crown), 
good), one of the prettiest villages on 
the Bergstrasse. It is sometimes re¬ 
sorted to as a watering-place, on 
account of a mineral spring in the 
neighbourhood. In the village itself 
there is nothing remarkable, but it is 
worth while to explore the beauties 
of its neighbourhood. A gradual as¬ 
cent, practicable for a light char, leads 
in 2 in. past the Brunnen to the ruins 


of the Castle of Auerberg , one of the 
most picturesque in the Odenwald. It 
was dismantled by the French under 
Turenne, 1674, and time is fast com¬ 
pleting the work of destruction begun 
by man ; one of its tall slender towers 
fell in 1821, and the other threatens to 
follow it. The hill on which it stands 
is composed of granite and gneiss. A 
shady and easy path conducts from the 
ruins to the Melibocus, 2 m.; guides 
and mules are to be hired by those who 
require them, and carnages can safely 
ascend. 

Bensheim Stat. (Inn, Bahnhof 
Hotel), a town of 4000 Inhab., with 
a church in the round style, built by 
Moller. 

[About 3 m. W. of Bensheim, off 
the road, is the ruined Abbey of Lorsch , 
the oldest Gothic edifice in this part 
of Germany. A fragment of a portico, 
which served as an entrance into the 
original church, consecrated in 774, 
in the presence of Charlemagne, his 
queen, and two sons, still exists : it is a 
specimen of the debased Roman style. 
A part of the building, at present used 
as a storehouse for fruit, dates from 
1090. Lorsch is now only interest¬ 
ing to the antiquary and architect. 
The holy monks who founded the 
abbey not only spread civilisation and 
religion through the surrounding coun¬ 
try, but redeemed it from the state of 
a wilderness, like the back-woods of 
America, and brought it under culti¬ 
vation. In process of time the priory 
surpassed in wealth and extent of pos¬ 
session many bishoprics and principali¬ 
ties. Duke Thassilo of Bavaria, deposed 
by Charlemagne, for treason, ended his 
days here as a monk. The Roman 
Emp. Louis II. was buried here 876.] 

Heppenheim Stat. — Inn , Halber 
Mond (Half Moon), good, capital trout, 
and wine of the country. This small 
town of 3700 inhab., like most others 
on the Bergstrasse, has an ancient and 
decayed appearance, but is prettily situ¬ 
ated. The church was built by Charle¬ 
magne. On a commanding height be¬ 
hind (l£ m.) rise the towers of Stark- 
enburg Castle , built 1064 by the abbots 
of Lorsch as a defence against the at¬ 
tacks of the German Emperors. It 







558 


ROUTE 105. —HEIDELBERG. 


Sect. VIII. 


afterwards belonged to the Archbishops 
of Mayence, who considered it their 
strongest fortress, and maintained a 
garrison in it down to the time of the 
Seven Years’War. It was taken by the 
Spaniards under Gon. di Cordova(162I), 
by the Swedes under Gustavus Adol¬ 
phus (1631), and was twice fruitlessly 
besieged by Turenne (1645 and 1674). 
The ascent—^ an hr.’s drive by a 
rough road—from Heppenheim is not 
very difficult, and is well repaid by 
the beautiful view. The ground round 
these picturesque ruins is tastefully 
laid out in a garden. Upon a hillock, 
surmounted by 3 trees, in the middle 
of a field, called Landberg, in ancient 
times the Burgraves of Starkenburg 
held, in the open air, their tribunal 
called Gaugericht. A little way out of 
Heppenheim the railroad crosses the 
frontier of Darmstadt into Baden. 

Hemsbach Stat. Near here is the 
country seat of M. Rothschild of Frank¬ 
furt, surmounted by 2 towers. He has 
large estates here. 

Weinheim Stat. (. Inns: Der Karls- 
berg, in the mai'ket-place ; Pfalzer 
Hof, £ m. from stat.) is an ancient 
town, surrounded by towers and a 
ditch; it lies on the Weschnitz, and 
has 4900 Inhab. A handsome modern 
Church. Its wealth consists in the 
orchards and vineyards around. The 
best wine of the Bergstrasse is the 
Ilubbergcr, which grows near Wein¬ 
heim. Above the town is the castle of 
Windeck , remarkable for its cylindrical 
donjon tower. 

The railroad beyond Weinheim takes 
a bend to the S.W. away from the Berg¬ 
strasse, and makes direct for the Neckar. 

Gross-Sachsen Stat. Beyond this 

Ladenburg Stat., old town with walls 
and towers, and a handsome church (St. 
Gallus), on the rt. bank of the Neckar, 
which the Railway here crosses by a 
fine bridge. Inn , Adler. 

Friedrichsfeld Stat., Junction with 
the Railway from Mannheim to Hei¬ 
delberg, from which places this stat. 
is nearly equally distant. At this stat. 
the Prince of Wales first saw the Prin¬ 
cess Alexandra. Omnibus to Schwetzin- 
gen Gardens, 1£ m. off (Rte. 102). 
The ruined castle of Strahlenberg , above 


the town of Schriessheim, may be dis¬ 
cerned on the 1. Heidelberg is hidden 
from view until you are just opposite 
to it. Under the Kbnigstuhl lies 

Heidelberg Stat., about £ m. out¬ 
side the Mannheim Thor.—Omnibus 
into the town.— Inns: Near the stat., 
*H. Schrieder, kept by Kiihne, good and 
moderate;—*Miiller’s (Victoria) Hotel, 
perfectly clean, reasonable, and comfort¬ 
able ;—H. del’Europe in the gardens. In 
the town near the Castle , Prinz Karl, good; 
—Badischer Hof;—Adler, near the P. 
Karl,clean and moderate;—H.de Russie. 

2nd class;—Darmstadter Hof; — 
Bayrischer Hof. 

English Chapel —Plockstrasse, near 
the Anlage. Sundays, at 11 and 3. 

If pressed for time, you may walk in 
4 hr. from the railway, ascending the 
hill at once to the Anlagen ,—pretty 
gardens, lined with villas, on a terrace 
formed on the hill side, above the town; 
thence to the Castle , and the Garden 
Terrace ; returning down the footpath 
(Burgweg) into the Kornmarkt, and 
through the town back to the Rail¬ 
way. From the great Ch. a street leads 
N. in 5 min. to the Bridge , which is a 
good point of view. The Kanzel , a pro- 
jecting rock, and the Molkenkur , a sum¬ 
mer-house still higher up the hill than 
the Castle are fine points of view, but 
will extend the walk by about £ an horn-. 

Carriages are waiting at the Railway, 
which, at the rate of 1 fl. or 1 fl. 
12 kr. the hour, will drive you to the 
Castle, up the Neckar, to the top of the 
Kbnigstuhl, and back, in 3 or 4 hours, 
giving ample time to see the Castle. 
Carriage to the Castle 2 fl. 

The beauty of the Bergstrasse has 
been perhaps exaggerated; that of 
Heidelberg cannot be too much ex¬ 
tolled ; it is charmingly situated on the 
1. bank of the Neckar, on a narrow 
ledge between the river and the castle 
rock. It is almost limited to a single 
street, nearly 3 m. long, from the Rail¬ 
way Stat. to the Heilbronn gate. It has 
18,400 Inhab., one-third Rom. Catholics. 
Few towns in Europe have experienced 
to a greater extent, or more frequently, 
the horrors of war, than the ill-starred 
Heidelberg. Previous to the Thirty 
Years’ War it displayed in its buildings 










Baden . 


559 


ROUTE 105. —HEIDELBERG. UNIVERSITY, ETC. 


all the splendour arising from flourish¬ 
ing commerce and the residence of the 
court of the Electors Palatine of the 
Rhine. It has been 5 times bom¬ 
barded, twice laid in ashes, and thrice 
taken by assault and delivered over to 
pillage. In 1622 (the fatal period of 
the Thirty Years’ War) the ferocious 
Tilly took the town by storm after a 
cruel siege and bombardment of nearly 
a month, and gave it up to he sacked 
for 3 days together. The garrison re¬ 
treated into the castle, headed by an 
Englishman named Herbert; hut the 
death of their commander, who was 
shot, compelled them to surrender in a 
few days. The Imperial troops retained 
possession of the place for 11 years; 
after which it was retaken by the 
Swedes, who were hcfrdly to he pre¬ 
ferred as friends to the Imperialists as 
foes. But Heidelberg was destined to 
suffer far worse evils from the French. 
In 1674 the Elector Charles Louis 
incurred the displeasure of Louis XIY.; 
and a French army, under Turenne, 
was in consequence let loose upon the 
Palatinate, carrying slaughter, fire, and 
desolation before it. The Elector be¬ 
held with distress, from the castle in 
which he had shut himself up, the 
inroads of foreign troops, and flame and 
smoke rising up along the plain from 
burning towns and villages. Unable to 
oppose the French with equal force at 
the head of an army, hut anxious to 
avenge the wrongs of his country, he 
resolved, in a spirit which some may 
deem Quixotic, others chivalrous, to 
endeavour to end the contest with his 
own sword. Accordingly he sent a 
cartel to Marshal Turenne, challenging 
him to single combat. The French 
general returned a civil answer, 
but did not accept it. The am¬ 
bition of Louis XIY. led him, on 
the death of the Elector’s son, 
1685, to lay claim to the Palatinate 
on behalf of the Duke of Orleans ; and 
another French army, more wicked 
than the first, was marched across the 
Rhine. Heidelberg was taken and 
burnt, 1688, by Melac, a general whose 
brutality and cruelty surpassed that 
of Tilly. But it was at the following 
siege, under Chamilly, in 1693, that it 


was reserved for the French to display 
the most merciless tyranny, and prac¬ 
tise excesses worthy of fiends rather 
than men, upon the town and its 
inhab., paralleled only in the French 
Revolution, and which will ever render 
the name of Frenchman odious in the 
Palatinate. The castle was betrayed 
through the cowardice or treachery of 
the governor, with the garrison, and. 
many of the townspeople who had fled 
to it for refuge. The cruelty of the 
treatment they met with was, in this 
instance, heightened by religious intol¬ 
erance, and no mercy was shown to the 
Protestants. On this occasion the castle 
was entirely ruined. 

The University , founded 1386, is one 
of the oldest in Germany : the number 
of students is about 700. It is as a 
school of law and medicine that Hei¬ 
delberg is most distinguished. Many of 
the professors are men of great reputa¬ 
tion—Mittermeyer in criminal law; 
Yon Vangarau in Roman law, and 
Chelius in surgery. Gervinus resides 
here in retirement. 

As an edifice the University is not 
remarkable. It is a plain and not very 
large house in the small square (Lud¬ 
wigs Platz) near the middle of the 
town. The Library , in a building by 
itself, consists of 120,000 volumes, be¬ 
sides MSS. A portion of the famous 
Palatine Library , which was carried off 
by the Bavarians in the Thirty Years’ 
War, and sent to the Yatican as a 
present to the Pope, and as a trophy of 
the success of the Catholic cause, was 
restored to Heidelberg by Pope Pius 
VII. in 1815. The volumes sent back, 
890 in number, relate principally to 
German history. It is related that 
Tilly, being in want of straw after 
taking the castle, littered his cavalry 
with books and MSS. from the library 
of the Elector, at that time one of the 
most valuable in Europe. The curiosi¬ 
ties of this collection as it at present 
stands are,—a Codex of the Greek 
Anthology, 11th cent.; MSS. of Thucy¬ 
dides and Plutarch, of the 10th and 
11th, and many autographs of remark¬ 
able persons; Luther’s MS. translation 
of Isaiah; his Exhortation to Prayer 
against the Turks; and a copy of the 




560 


ROUTE 1 05 .- —HEIDELBERG CASTLE, 


Sect. VIII. 


Heidelberg Catechism, annotated by 
him ; the Prayer-book of the Electress 
Elizabeth (James I.’s daughter); a 
Mass-book, ornamented with minia¬ 
tures, by John Dentzel of Uka, 1499. 
The library is freely open to all persons 
for 2 hrs» daily, except on Sundays. 

In the University Museum are Creuzers’ 
Cabinet of antiquities; Professor Bronn’s 
fossils of the neighbourhood of Heidel¬ 
berg ; and Leonhard’s fossils and mi¬ 
nerals, particularly rich in specimens 
illustrative of the geology of this part 
of Germany. 

The Museum Club (§ 44), opposite the 
University, contains reading, ball, and 
concert rooms, well supplied with 
papers and journals. 

Neither the public nor private build¬ 
ings in the town are at all remarkable 
in an architectural point of view, chiefly 
owing to the destruction caused by 
repeated sieges. One house, however, 
escaped, which in the richly decorated 
faqado, ornamented with statues, coats 
of arms, &c., may give some notion of 
former splendour; it is the inn called 
Zum Ritter , from the figure of a knight 
on the top: it was built in 1592. It 
stands in the market-place, near the 
Church of the Holy Ghost , in which 
many electors and counts palatine were 
buried. Their fine monuments were 
destroyed by the French in 1793, when 
neither reverence for the dead nor the 
sacredness of the building prevented it 
becoming the scene of slaughter and 
sacrilege. The church is divided by a 
partition wall between the Catholics 
and Protestants, and the two services 
arc performed under the same roof. The 
resistance of the townspeople to the elec¬ 
tor, Charles Philip, who wanted to de¬ 
prive the Protestants of their half of this 
church, occasioned him to remove the 
Electoral court from Heidelberg to 
Mannheim in 1719-20. 

To the door of the Ch. of St. Peter , 
on the hill at the' end of the Anlagen, 
Jerome of Prague, the companion of 
Huss, attached his celebrated theses , 
which he maintained, at the same time 
expounding the Reformed doctrines to 
a multitude of hearers in the adjoining 
churchyard. Here also is the simple 
tomb of Olympia Morata, who com¬ 


bined the feminine grace and beauty of 
a woman with the intellect and learn¬ 
ing of a philosopher. Persecuted as a 
heretic in Italy, the land of her birth, 
she was forced to fly, along with her 
husband, a German, and at length 
settled at Heidelberg, where she de¬ 
livered lectures to a large and admiring 
audience. Her extraordinary acquire¬ 
ments in learning, her beauty, misfor¬ 
tunes, and early death, shed a peculiar 
interest upon her grave. 

The objects of greatest interest here 
are the Castle, and the views of the 
Rhine and Neckar valley. 

The **Castle, anciently the residence 
of the Electors Palatine, presenting the 
combined character of a palace and a 
fortress, is an imposing ruin. ( Admis¬ 
sion daily, 1 person 30 kr.; 2 48 kr. ; 
3 or more, 1 fl. The building dis¬ 
plays the work of various hands, the 
taste of different founders, and the 
styles of successive centuries : it 
is highly interesting for its varied 
fortunes, its picturesque situation, its 
vastness, and the relics of architectural 
magnificence which it still displays, 
after having been three times burnt, 
and having ten times experienced the 
horrors of war. Its final ruin, how¬ 
ever, did not arise from those causes; 
but after the greater part of the build¬ 
ing had been restored to its former 
splendour in 1718-20, it was set on fire 
by lightning in 1764; and since the 
total conflagration which ensued, it has 
never been rebuilt or tenanted. It is 
at present only a coUection of red stone 
walls, and has remained roofless for 
nearly a century. It is approached by 
a carriage-road from behind, and by a 
winding foot-path on the side of the 
Neckar. The oldest part remaining is 
probably that built by the Electors 
Rudolph and Rupert. It has all the 
character of a stronghold of the middle 
ages, and the teeth of the portcullis 
still project from beneath the archway 
leading to it. The Friedrichsbau , named 
from the Elector, who built it in 1607, 
is distinguished by excessive richness 
of decoration: its fa£ade to the S. 
is ornamented with statues of ancestors 
of the Electoral family from Charle¬ 
magne. The part of the building most 




Bade)} 


ROUtE 105.— HEIDELBERG CASTLE, 


561 



non. Footpath leading up to the Castle. 

b. Carriage-road. 

e. Platform or Terrace. Alton. 

d. Building of Frederick IV. (1607). The 
statues in the facade are ancestors of the reign¬ 
ing house of Bavaria, from Charlemagne and 
Otho of Wittelsbach. 

e. Cellar containing the Tun. 

f. Entrance to it. 

g. Building of Otho Henry, or Ritter Saal, 
begun 1556, finished 1559. This is the finest 
portion of the Castle ; it is in the best style of 
Italian architecture, and the sculpture with 
which it is decorated is of high merit. 

h. Octagon Tower (1525), first struck by the 
lightning which finally consumed the Castle in 
1764. 

t. Library Tower. 


h. Frederick II.’s Buildings (1549). 

/. Oldest part of the Castle, begun in 1300 
by the Elector Rudolph. 

m. Rupert’s Building, begun 1400. 

n. Well, under a Canopy supported by pillars 
brought from Ingelheim (of Odenwald granite). 

o. Grand Gateway (1355), with Portcullis. 

p. The Blown-up Tower. 

q. The Gate raised in honour of the English 
Princess Elizabeth, daughter of James I.; her 
grandson was George I. 

r. The Garden. 

s. The English Building erected lor the Prin¬ 
cess Elizabeth, by her husband the Elector 
Frederick IV. (16o7). 

t. Tower built by Elector Lewis V. 1533. Its 
walls are 22 ft. thick. It was destroyed by 
the French, 1689. 


2 b 3 














































562 


ROUTE 105. —HEIDELBERG CASTLE. 


deserving of admiration, for the good 
taste of its design and the elegance of 
its decorations, is that which overlooks 
the river, and extends along the E. 
side of the quadrangle (g in the plan), 
built by Otto Henry (1556), in the style 
called cinque-cento, which is allied to 
the Elizabethan of England. The 
statues of heroes from sacred and pro¬ 
fane history, which decorate the front, 
though of (keuper) sandstone, are by no 
means contemptible as works of art. 

The English traveller will view with 
some interest that part of the castle 
called the English Palace (s), from its 
having been built for the reception of 
the Princess Elizabeth Stuart, daughter 
of James I., and grand-daughter of 
Mary Queen of Scots. The triumphal 
arch (7), having pillars entwined with 
ivy-leaves, was erected by her husband, 
the Elector Frederick V., afterwards 
King of Bohemia, to celebrate their 
nuptials; it led to the flower-garden 
which he caused to he laid out for her 
pleasure, and it still goes by the name 
of Elizabethen Pforte. 

“ When her husband hesitated to ac¬ 
cept the crown of Bohemia, this high¬ 
hearted wife exclaimed, ‘ Let me rather 
eat dry bread at a king’s table than 
feast at the board of an elector and it 
seemed as if some avenging demon 
hovered in the air to take her literally 
at her word; for she and her family 
lived to eat dry bread—ay, and to beg 
it before they ate it; but she would be a 
queen.”—M rs. Jameson. The granite 
pillars supporting the canopy of the 
well ( [n ) in the comer of the court of 
the castle are said by some to have 
been brought from Charlemagne’s pa¬ 
lace at Ingelheim, though they are un¬ 
doubtedly derived from the quarry in 
the Odenwald. 

In a cellar under the castle (e, /) is 
the famous Heidelberg Tun, constructed 
1751 ; it is the largest wine-cask in the 
world, 36 ft. long and 24 ft. high; 
being capable of holding 800 hogsheads 
or 283,200 bottles, which is far less, 
after all, than the dimensions of one of 
the porter vats of a London brewer. 
In former days, when the tun was filled 
with the produce of the vintage, it was 
Usual to dance on the platform on the 


Sect. VIII. 

top. It has, however, remained empty 
since 1769. 

One of the towers which formed the 
outer defences of the Castle ( der ges~ 
prengte Thurni) (p), was undermined 
and blown up by the French; but so 
thick were the walls, and so strongly 
built, that, though nearly the whole of 
one side was detached by the explosion, 
instead of crumbling to pieces it merely 
slid down from its place, in one solid 
mass, into the ditch, where it still re¬ 
mains. Subterranean passages, for the 
most part still preserved and accessible, 
extend under the ramparts. 

The Gardens (originally laid out by 
the engineer Solomon dc Caus) and 
Shrubberies round the castle, and the 
adjoining Terrace to the eastward, 
afford the most agreeable walks and 
splendid points of view it is possible to 
conceive over the Neckar, issuing out 
of its vine-clad valley, and winding 
through a plain of the utmost fertility 
to join the Khine, which appears here 
and there in distant flashes glittering 
in the sun. Spires and towers proclaim 
the existence of cities and villages 
almost without number, and the land¬ 
scape is bounded by the outline of the 
Vosges mountains. 

There is an Inn or Boarding-house 
within the Castle; comfortable rooms. 
Table d’hote at 1. 

The best general View of the Castle 
may be obtained from the extremity of 
the Terrace raised upon arches, and pro¬ 
jecting over the Neckar. The build¬ 
ing, however, is so grand an object, and 
the surrounding country so exceedingly 
beautiful, that the stranger will hardly 
be satisfied with seeing it from one 
point. The Obere Schloss , a restaurant 
on the hill behind the Castle, con¬ 
siderably higher, is another good 
point of view. The visitor should 
mount the heights on the rt. bank 
of the Neckar, cither by a path 
leading from the end of the bridge, 
which is steep, or by a more gradual 
ascent from Neuenhcim. An agreeable 
path, easily accessible, called the Philo¬ 
sopher’s Walk, conducts along the slope 
of the hill fronting the town. The hill 
behind it, which stands in the angle be¬ 
tween the valley of the Khine and 



Baden. 


ROUTE 105. —Ivd^IGSTUUL. 


563 


Neckar, called the Heiligenberg, presents 
a more extensive prospect. On the top 
are ruins of a castle and church of St. 
Michael, which succeeded to a Roman 
fort built on the spot. In 1391 the wild 
sect called Flagellants made a pilgrim¬ 
age to this holy mountain, clad in black 
and wearing a white cross in front and 
behind. In the Thirty Years’ War 
Tilly opened his trenches to bombard 
the town from this point. 

About 50 yards above the bridge, on 
the rt. bank, in a solitary inn called 
Hirschgasse, the students’ duela are 
fought. 4 or 5 sometimes take place 
in a day ; and it is no uncommon thing 
for a student to have been engaged in 
25 or 30, as principal , in the course of 
4 or 5 years. Duelling-days are Tuesday 
and Thursday, between 10 a.m. and 1. 
Strangers are not admitted, unless in¬ 
troduced by a member of “ the corps,” 
which comprises only about 150 out of 
700 students. There are 5 different 
corps, distinguished by the colours of 
their caps: 1, white, Prussians ; 2, red, 
Vandals; 3, green, Westphalians; 4, 
blue, Rhinelanders; 5, yellow, Sua- 
bians. 

In the Wrede Platz is a bronze 
statue of Field Marshal Wrede , a Bava¬ 
rian general, but born here. 

The Kdnigstuhl , the highest hill iiv 
this district, lies behind the town and 
castle. The summit may be reached 
in 1 or 1^ hr.’s walk, or in a carnage, 
and the view is the most extensive in 
the neighbourhood. A lofty tower has 
been erected for the convenience of 
visitors, who often repair hither to see 
the sun rise, and if possible to extend 
the limits of the panorama, which in¬ 
cludes the valleys of the Rhine and 
Neckar, the Odenwald, Haardt Moun¬ 
tains on the W., the Taunus on the 
N.W., the ridge of the Black Forest on 
the S., with the Castle of Eberstein- 
berg, near Baden, and the spire of 
Strasburg Minster, 90 m. off. Tilly 
bombarded the town from this hill, 
after his attack from the rt. bank had 
failed : remains of his trenches are still 
visible. 

The banks of the Neckar above 
Heidelberg are very interesting, and 
afford many pleasant excursions—one 


of the most agreeable being to Neckar- 
gemiind (Inn, Pfalz), G m. off; the 
excursion may be agreeably prolonged 
to Neckar Steinach, on the rt. bank 
(Inn, Die Harfe). The course of the 
Neckar is described in the Handbook 
for S. Germany , Rte. 159. 

A road, overlooking the Neckar, runs 
from the castle along the shoulder of 
the hill to the Wolfs Brunnen, an 
agreeable walk or drive of 2 m. ; 
charming views. It is a pretty retired 
nook, named from a spring which 
rises there. There is a small inn close 
to it, famed for its beer and trout—like 
a Swiss cottage. Trout are reared 
here by thousands, in a succession of 
well-contrived ponds and tanks; in the 
last of which they are fattened for the 
table. They are also largely exported. 
Here, according to tradition, the en¬ 
chantress Jetta, who lived on the spot, 
and first foretold the greatness of the 
house of the Palatinate, was torn in 
pieces hy a wolf. You may return 
hence to Heidelberg by the road along 
the margin of the river. 

Hausacker’s collection of armour 
and paintings, old iron and steel work, 
and executioners’ swords, outside the 
Karls Thor, well deserves a visit. 

The cherries of Dossenheim, a village 
about 2 m. beyond Handschuhsheim, 
on the Bergstrasse, are sent by steam¬ 
boats to the London market. 

The pretty gardens of Schwetzingen, 
about an hour’s drive, form a pleasant 
excursion* (See Rte. 102.) 

Droskies —stands, in the rly* stats*, 
Ludwig Platz and Korn-markt—may 
he hired for excursions in and around 
the town. 

Heidelberg is a cheap place of resi¬ 
dence, provisions being moderate and 
abundant. 

Railways :—to Wurzburg (Rte. 110), 
by Mosbach: to Mannheim (Rte. 
102 .) in 35 min., stopping at Fried- 
richsfeld, junction stat. of the Frank¬ 
furt and Mannheim Railway;—to 
Ilcilbronn and Stuttgard, by Bruch- 
sal, in 4^ hrs. 

Steamboats on the Neckar to Heil- 
bronn, in 13 hrs., tedious; descending 








564 


ROUTE 105. — CARLSRUUEi 


in 7 or 8. (See Handbook for S. Ger¬ 
many, Etc. 159.) 


The Baden Railway — Heidelberg to 
Bale , with branches to Baden-Baden 
and Kehl (opposite Strasburg) : trains 
to Carlsruhe in Itt hrs.; Baden 2£ and 
3£ hrs.; Kohl in 5 hrs.; to Freiburg 
in 7 hrs.; Ilaltringen, 8 m. from Bale, 
in 9 hrs. : the 2nd-class carriages are 
commodious, with stuffed seats, and 
quite respectable. 

St. Ilgen Stat. 

The country to the S. of Heidelberg 
scarcely retains any trace of the beauty 
of the Bergstrasse, but the line is car¬ 
ried through a flat but fertile country, 
with a range of hills to the eastward. 

Wiesloch Stat. rt. The large build¬ 
ing called Kisslau was formerly a Ducal 
Palace, but is now a State Prison. 

Langenbriicken Stat. Inn , Ochs. 
Here are sulphur baths, very efficacious 
for diseases of the skin and of the 
respiratory organs, for gout, rheu¬ 
matism, &c. Lodging at the Bathing 
Establishment. Table d’hote and wines 
very good. A cheap and agreeable 
summer residence for families. 

Bruchsal Junct. Stat.— Inns: Post, 
or Badischer Hof, best; Eose nr. Stat. 
This inanimate town of 7200 Inhab. 
formerly belonged to the Prince-Arch¬ 
bishops of Spire, whose Palace is now 
converted into Law Courts. The large 
building on 1. is a Prison on the separate 
system. Here the Wurtemberg Railway 
diverges E. by Bieteghemto Stuttgard. 
Travellers going to Munich, the Tyrol, 
and Vienna, turn off here. 

Weingarten Stat. 

Barlach June. Stat. (Inn: Carlsburg), 
once the residence of the Margraves of 
Baden-Durlach, now the reigning family 
since the extinction of the line of Baden- 
Baden, 1771. An old ruined castle, 
with its conspicuous watch-tower , upon 
the height of the Thurmberg, was the 
cradle of the family. The more recent 
Chateau or Palace in the town is now 
half pulled down; what remains is 
turned into a cavalry barrack. In the 
gardens are some Eoman altars and 
milestones, found in the neighbour¬ 
hood. Here a Ely. diverges to Pforz- 


Sect. VIII. 

heim and Wilferdirigen, and Wildbad 
(See South Germ. Handbook.) 

After passing (rt.) Gottesau, once a 
convent, now an artillery barrack, and 
the interesting Cemetery of Carlsruhe,we 
reach the handsome buildings, designed 
by the architect Eisenlohr, which 
compose the 

Carlsruhe Stat.— Inns : Erbprinz, 
good; H. d’Angletcrre ; II. Grosso. 
2 nd class, Griiner Ilof, moderate. 
Good baths in the town. Carls¬ 
ruhe, the capital of the Grand Duchy 
of Baden, the seat of government and 
of the Chambers of Eepresentatives, 
and residence of the court and foreign 
ministers, contains 32,000 Inhab. It 
is a pretty but rather dull town, and 
one of the youngest capitals of Ger¬ 
many, as it was not begun till 1715. 
It owes its origin, not to any fitness in 
the situation for trade or manufac¬ 
tures, but solely to the accident of 
the Margrave Charles of Baden build¬ 
ing a hunting-seat on the spot, which 
he fixed on from its seclusion and 
retirement, the surrounding country 
being at the time an almost uninter¬ 
rupted forest. He called this retreat 
“ Charles’s Best.” In a few years, 
however, his solitude was invaded by 
other dwellings, and converted into a 
populous settlement, and the hunting- 
lodge became the nucleus of a new city, 
which derived from it the name of 
Karls-ruhe. It is regularly built, in 
the form of a fan, or rather of a wheel. 
The main streets, like the spokes, all 
j radiate from the palace, which termi¬ 
nates the vista in every street. The 
buildings are of 3 periods, the oldest in 
the French style of the early part of the 
18th centy.; next come the classic imi¬ 
tations of Weinbrenner , of the beginning 
of the 19th cent.; and last, the produc¬ 
tions of the existing school of architec¬ 
ture, of which Hiibsch is the head. 

From the railway you enter Carls¬ 
ruhe by the Ettlinger 'Gate, and pass, 
in traversing the street leading to the 
palace (Carl Frederichs St.), the monu¬ 
ments of the Grand Duke Karl (d. 1818), 
obelisk and a bust; Lewis (d. 1830), 
a statue; and that of the Margrave 
Charles William, founder of Carls- 







Baden. 


ROUTE 105. —CARLSRUHE. 


565 


ruhc, a pyramid of red sandstone, 
with a neat inscription. The 2 last 
are in the market-place, on the AV. 
side of 'which is the Rathhaus , on the 
E. the Protestant Ch ., and further on, 
in the court-yard of the palace, is the 
statue of the Grand Duke Karl Fre¬ 
derick (d. 1811), by Schwanthaler. 
The Polytechnic School was built by 
Hiibsch in 1836. Over the portal rea 
statues of Ivepplcr and Erwin von 
Steinbach. 

The Palace or Schloss presents no¬ 
thing remarkable. The view from the i 
turret which surmounts it, called The 
Bleithurm, deserves to be seen, as it 
will give a correct notion of the singu¬ 
lar plan on which Carlsruhe is built. 
The town is nearly surrounded by the 
Haardt Forest, which is intersected by 
roads radiating from the palace, and cor¬ 
responding with the streets of the town. 
Beyond this are seen the silvery wind¬ 
ings of the Rhine, and behind it the 
Vosges Mountains, in France ; while to 
the S. the picturesque outline of the 
Black Forest mountains, and on the FT. 
those of the Bergstrasse, complete the 
panorama. The Theatre, on the W. side 
of the palace, built 1847-53, is open 
3 times a w T eek. 

There is a Museum of Natural His¬ 
tory in the E. wing of the palace, rich in 
fossil remains; a large portion of the 
skeleton of a mammoth was dug up at 
Oos. Here also is the Court Library of 
90,000 vols. 

The Estates or Parliament of Baden 
hold their sittings here: their debates 
are open to the public. 

One of the tinest buildings is the 
Kunsthalle, near the Botanic Garden, 
erected by Hiibsch, 1845, of grey sand¬ 
stone, with stripes of red. It is decorated 
■with frescoes by Schwind, and contains 
a collection of paintings, and other j 
works of art. There are—portraits 
of Colbert, Ph. de Champagne; 2 por¬ 
traits by Van dcr Heist; many Dutch 
pictures; and a medallion portrait of 
Newton, by de Witte. Those of the 
old masters are of 2 nd-rate value, but I 
there are good specimens of the modern 
German school; Achenbach, Dietz, 
Schwind ; Lessing , Crusaders; Sohn, 
Question of Conscience. Dietz. Battle 


pieces, in which the Baden soldiers 
figure; Cartoons by Overbeck , Schnorr * 
&c.; Landscapes by Frommel ; also a por¬ 
trait of Luther, after death, by Cranach. 

An archway in the W. wing of the 
palace leads to the Palace Gardens and 
those called Amaliensruhe , which are 
thrown open to the public, and afford 
agreeable walks. On the 1., near the 
entrance* are large conservatories ( Win¬ 
ter gar ten), and adjoining them the Bo¬ 
tanic Garden. Another pleasant short 
walk is to the village of Biertheim, 
where there are good baths. 

A noble avenue of Lombardy pop¬ 
lars, the oldest and highest in Germany, 
none being under 90 ft., and some more 
than 120 ft. high, 2 m. long, leads to¬ 
wards Durlach. 

Mr. Stultz, the tailor, founded an hos¬ 
pital in this town, near the Muhlberg 
gate, which he endowed with a sum of 
100,000 fl.; he was in consequence 
created a baron. 

English Ch. Service in the Chapel 
near the Stiftung. 

In the shops of Franz Noldeke and 
M. Bielefeld will be found a number 
of interesting publications, engravings 
of all sorts, with guide-books, and views 
of the Rhine, and of Baden, &c. 

The Club (§ 44) is called the Mu¬ 
seum ; strangers may be admitted to it 
by a member. M. Noldeke will intro¬ 
duce English strangers. All the Ger¬ 
man, many French, and a few English 
papers are taken in here. 

The Friedhof , not far from the Rly. 
Stat., is very well arranged and kept. 
Very conspicuous is the Prussian Monu¬ 
ment, from designs by the King of 
Prussia (Fred. Wm, IV.) himself, to 
the memory of his soldiers who fell in 
putting down the Baden revolutionary 
insurgents, 1849. It is a temple of 
red sandstone, surmounted by the arch¬ 
angel Michael, in zinc gilt. Another 
monument records the death of 64 per¬ 
sons at the fire in the theatre here, 1847. 
Here is the grave of Jung Stilling, 
who died here 1817. 

Railways to Stuttgart; to Pforzheim 
and Wildbad; to Augsburg; Ulm; 
Munich; Friedrichshafen; to Landau 
by Maxau, where it crosses the Rhine 









566 


ROUTE 105. —RASTADT. THE FAVOURITE* 


Sect. VIII. 


and joins the rly. on the 1. hank of 
the Rhine at "Winden. 


Railway to Baden continued. —About 
2 m. from Carlsruhe, rt., at Bulach, is 
a modern Romanesque Ch., with 2 
towers, built by Hiibsch , 1838. The 
interior contains frescoes by Dietrich of 
Stuttgart. 

Ettlingen Stat. (Krone); paper and 
silk mills. 

Malsch Stat. 

Muggensturm Stat. Omnibus to 
Gemsbacli, near Baden. (Rte. 106.) 

The Duchy of Baden is one of the 
most fertile districts in Germany, and 
that part of it through which the 
railroad passes produces tobacco in 
large quantities, maize, hops, hemp, 
and flax, besides every species of grain. 
It is a country of wine also, and oil, as 
the hills are clothed with vineyards, 
and the roads are shaded by luxuriant 
walnut-trees, from the nuts of which 
an excellent and clear oil is pressed, 
nearly as good for culinary purposes as 
fine olive-oil. The agricultural pea¬ 
santry in this country commonly wear 
cocked-hats, even in the fields,—a sin¬ 
gular decoration for a ploughboy. 

Rastadt Stat.— Inns: Post; Kreutz. 
This town, of 10,726 Inhab., on the 
Murg, is a dull place, but has been con¬ 
verted since 1840 into a strong Fortress 
of the German Confederation, as a 
frontier defence against France, by 
Austrian engineers. 

The Palace , built by the eccentric 
Margravine Sibylla (see below), is a 
large edifice of red sandstone. It was 
the residence of the last Margraves of 
Baden, but is now deserted and in part 
serves as a barrack. 2 Congresses, im¬ 
portant in the annals of Europe, have 
assembled in it: one in 1714, when 
Marshal Villars and Prince Eugene 
signed a treaty of peace in the small 
unpainted cabinet, its walls stained 
With ink-spots, still pointed out to 
visitors ; the second, in 1797-99, which 
Was terminated abruptly by the mys¬ 
terious murder of the French Re¬ 
publican envoys, Roberjot and Bonnier, 


as they were quitting the town. 
About 10 min. walk outside theRheinau 
gate a monument marks the spot. No 
satisfactory light has ever been thrown 
upon the murder. 

In one apartment are the Turkish 
trophies, horsetail standards, arms, &c., 
gained by the Margrave Louis in his 
successful campaigns against the Turks, 
together with the armour he Wore, 
and his portrait. Many things were 
stolen by the revolutionary blackguards 
who called themselves Freischaaren, 
about 6000 men, consisting of mutineer 
soldiers, students, Poles, and Hunga¬ 
rians, who got possession of Rastadt in 
1849, but surrendered the place in July 
of the same year, after causing much 
bloodshed. 

Branch Railway to Gernsbach. 

After leaving the Rastadt Stat. the 
railway crosses the river Murg, and a 
little further passes on the 1., ^ m., the 
Favourite , a deserted chateau of the 
Margraves of Baden, built by the 
Margravine Sibylla, wife of the heavy 
Louis of Baden, who fought against the 
Turks along with Prince Eugene. It is 
chiefly interesting as illustrating the 
manners and tastes of former days, and 
from the singular character of Sibylla, 
its founder. In her youth she was very 
handsome, and not a little vain of her 
beauty; as a proof of which she has 
left in her boudoir 60 or 70 portraits 
of herself, in as many different cos¬ 
tumes. The old-fashioned furniture of 
the chateau, orignally tawdry rather 
than tasteful, is nearly worn out. There 
are no works of art in the house ; but 
one or two old cabinets filled with glass, 
and some singular Delft ware in the 
forms of birds and beasts, are kept 
in the lower rooms. In the garden 
is an odd, many-sided building, 
resembling a Chinese temple: this 
was Sibylla's Chapel. A youth of fri¬ 
volity seems, in her case, to have ter¬ 
minated in an old age of bigotry and 
superstition. Before an altar within 
it, in a chamber designedly rendered as 
gloomy as a dungeon, she spent the 
greater part of her days and nights, 
during the latter years of her life, in¬ 
flicting upon herself all kinds of priva- 







Baden. 


567 


ROUTE 105. —SASSBACH. OFFENBURG* 


• 

tions and penances. Here is still pre¬ 
served the scourge of 'whipcord, ending 
in wire points (like a cat-o’-nine¬ 
tails), with which she used to discipline 
herself; also, her hair shirt, and a cross 
of wire net-work, with points turned 
inward, which she wore next her skin, 
while 2 circular pieces of the same were 
placed for her to kneel upon. Her bed 
was a thin rush mat, laid on the floor ; 
and her only companions were 2 wooden 
figures, as large as life, of the Virgin 
and St. John. These were her guests, 
and with them she used to sit down 
to table ; equal portions of every meal 
being served to all three; but their 
share was afterwards given to the poor. 
The Favourite is about 6 m. from Baden. 

O 03 Junct. Stat.— Branch Railway to 
Baden, 3 m. E. (Rte. 106). The railway 
then crosses the Oos rivulet. 1. see 
the castle tower of Yburg. 

Sinzheim Stat. 

Steinbach Stat., at the foot of the 
hill of Yburg, the birthplace of Erwin, 
the architect of Strasburg Minster. A 
sandstone statue of him crowns a height. 

Buhl Stat.— Inn , Post. Very old Ch. 

Ottersweier Stat. Here the valley 
of Hub opens out on the E.; within 
it lie the Hubbad and the ruined 
Castle of Windeck. 

[At Sassbach , 2 m. 1. of the railroad, 
stands an obelisk of granite, erected 
in 1829, by the French, to mark the 
spot where their great General Tu- 
renne was killed by a cannon ball, 
while reconnoitring the Austrian army, 
27th July, 1675. This is the 4th mo¬ 
nument which has been set up to his 
memory, the others having been de¬ 
stroyed* His death arrested instantly 
the success of the French arms, no ge¬ 
neral in his army being found capable 
of following up his plans. The most 
contradictory and futile orders were 
issued; till the troops, discouraged by 
inaction and failure, exclaimed in irony 
“ Lachcz la pie (the piebald charger of 
Turenne, upon which he had so often led 
them to victory); elle nous conduira.” 
The bowels of Turenne were interred in 
the little chapel of St. Nicholas; his 
body was conveyed to France.]] 


Achern Stat.— Inn : Poste (Huber’s), 
good. A Statue of Gd. Duke Leopold (d. 
1852) in the Market-place. [Horsesand 
carriages may be hired here for an in¬ 
teresting excursion of 8 m. by Ober- 
Achern, Cappel, and Ottenhofen, to the 
ruids of the Abbey of Allerheiligen 
(All Saints), destroyed by fire 1803 : 
now a picturesque ruin, (//in, bey 
Mittenmeyer.) Below the convent the 
hill has been cleft by a zigzag fissure for 
400 ft.; through this chasm a stream 
forces its way in numerous falls. The 
scenery around is scarcely surpassed 
anywhere in the Schwarzwald.] 

A little beyond this the railroad 
crosses the Bench, a stream descending 
from the Kniebis. 

Benchen Stat. 

Appenweier Junct. Stat. A rly. here 
branches off"rt.to Kehl (Strasburg), Bte. 
107. Travellers bound for Strasburg, and 
going afterwards to Freiburg or Schaff- 
hausen, will find it convenient to go on 
to Offenburg, and, leaving their baggage 
there, to return thence to Strasburg* 
They may deposit it at M. Pfaehler’s 
(of the Fortuna), opposite the station, 
without any extra expense. 

[A road goes from Appenweier 
over the Kniebis to Freudenstadt and 
Stuttgart (39 m.) by Oberkirch. 

[3 m. from which is the fine Gothic 
Ch. of Lautenbach (built 1471).] 
2 m. Oppenau (Inn, Krone: not a 
regular post station, but will supply 
horses), and 3 Freudenstadt. From 
Appenweier an Eilwagen to Bippoldsau, 
the last place in Baden on this road, in 
6 hrs.] 

S. of Oppenan, in the valley of Bench 
is a group of small watering places 
(Kniebis Baths), the chief of which is 
Petersthal (Kimmig-Miiller’s Hotel), 
1400 ft, above the sea; waters, iron, 
with carb. acid gas. It opens in May. 
Diligence daily td Appenweier.] 

rt. The spire of Strasburg Minster 
is visible. 1. The well-preserved Castle 
of Staufenberg, built in the 11th cent., 
by a Bp. of Strasburg, crowns a distant 
eminence. 

Offenburg June. Stat .—Buffet good* 




568 


ROUTE 105. —FRlEBURGi OFFENBACH. 


Sect. Villi 


Inn , the Fortuna Hotel, very good 
and moderate,^capital cuisine, civil host, 
understands English. Right of fishing 
in the Kinzig for 24 rn., and of shoot¬ 
ing, is given to guests staying at the 
Fortuna. The Zeller and Klingel- 
herger wines, grown near this, are 
very good; the price of a cask varies 
from 12^. to 15^. LaPoste. OfFenburg 
is a town of 3700 Inhab., situated at the 
entrance of the valley of the Kinzig, 
through which runs the direct road from 
Strasburg to Schaffhausen (Rte. 108). 
Here is a statue to Sir Francis Drake, 
the first introducer of the potato into 
Europe. 1. the modern Gothic Castle of 
Ortenburg (sec Rte. 108), built by a Rus¬ 
sian nobleman at a cost of 30,000^., is 
2 m. distant. Strasburg is about 12 m. 

Diligence to Rippoldsau. Railway to 
Hausach on the way to Schaffhausen. 

The railway to Basle crosses the 
Kinzig on a lattice bridge. 

Nieder-Schopf heim Stat. 

Friesenheim Stat. 

Dinglingen Stat. —Inn , Post; good 
and cheap. m. E. lies Lahr (Post; 
Sonne), a flourishing and industrious 
town, on the Sc-hutter. W. beyond 
the Rhine appears the outline of the 
Yosges Mountains, E. the red sand¬ 
stone cliffs of the Black Forest. On a 
steep conical hill rise the ruins of 
Schloss Hohengeroldseck, destroyed by 
the French, 1697. 

Kippenheim Stat. This village is the 
birthplace of Mr. (afterwards Baron) 
Stultz, the tailor : a neat monument of 
cast-iron has been set up by the road¬ 
side to his memory. 

Orschweier Stat. Beyond this the 
railroad crosses the Ettenbach. A little 
to the E., 1., is Ettenheim, where a 
party of French emigrants, among 
whom was the Due d’Enghien, were 
seized, 1804, by 2 columns of troops 
sent by Napoleon across the Rhine, 
who thus committed a breach of the 
law of nations, and a 'violation of the 
territory of the German Confederation. 
The Duke was inhumanly shot 6 days 
after, at Vincennes. 

Herbolzheim Stat. The Elz river is 
crossed. 

Kenzingen Stat. — Inn, Laclis (Sal¬ 
mon) ; good and clean. 


Ricgel Stat. A drainage Canal con¬ 
veys the Dreisam into the Elz and the 
Rhine, and has rescued the district 
from a state of swamp, rt. The Kaiser- 
stuhl, an isolated, volcanic, hilly range, 
fertile and thickly peopled, rises out of 
the plain of the Rhine. The railway 
bends E., passing between it and the 
Black Forest range. The summits of the 
Bellchen and Blauen are conspicuous. 

Emmendingen Stat. 

1. beyond the town, the Castle of 
Hochburg , one of the most extensive 
ruins in Germany, appears. 

Denzlingen Stat. 

About 3 m. N. of Freiburg, on the 
1., is the ruined Castle of the Counts of 
Z'ahringen, founders of the reigning 
family of Baden. From the ruins a 
beautiful view is obtained over the sur¬ 
rounding district, called the Breisgau ; 
for nearly 500 years a province of Aus¬ 
tria, but ceded to Baden by the Peace 
of Presburg, 1805. 

Freiburg Stat. — {Inns: Zahringer 
Hof, near the Rlv. Stat., first-rate; 
Hotel Fohrenbach, near the rly., good, 
and civil landlord; Deutscher Hof, 
middling ; civil landlord ; Angel ; 
Pfau (Peacock) ; Sauvage (Wilder 
Mann), very fair.) 

Eng. ch. service cn Sundays in a large 
room at the Post; resident chaplain. 

This flourishing and increasing town, 
the ancient capital of the Breisgau, 
was for nearly 300 years under the 
rule of Austria. It is situated in one 
of the prettiest spots on the outskirts 
of the Black Forest, at the mouth of 
the Hollenthal (Valley of Hell), upon 
the Dreisam, runlets from which are 
carried through all the streets. It has 
20,800 Inhab. (2000 Protestants set¬ 
tled here since 1850.) 

The **Minster is remarkable as being 
almost the only large Gothic church 
in Germany which is finished. It is 
equally admired for the delicate sym¬ 
metry of its proportions, and the good 
taste of its decorations. It owes its 
existence, partly to the munificence 
of the princes of Zahringen; but 
also to the zeal and liberality of Ihe 
citizens of Freiburg, who taxed them- 








Baden . 


569 


ROUTE 1 Oo.—FREIBURG* MINSTER. 


selves to the utmost to complete 
it. The architect’s name is unknown ; 
Erwin of Steinbach, who built Stras- 
burg, may have been his pupil. It 
was begun under Conrad III., of 
Zahringen, 1152. The nave (early 
pointed), TV. front, tower, and rich 
porch below it, date from 1236-72, and 
are by far the finest part of the build¬ 
ing ; the choir is inferior, and of a 
later period, 1513. The oldest parts 
are the transepts, together with their 
external turrets, 12th centy. The W. 
tower, 380 ft. high, one of the very few 
of the kind ever completed, exhibits 
a skilful transition from a square base 
into an octagon, which is surmounted 
by a pyramidal spire of the most exqui¬ 
site open-work tracery, all of stone, of 
extreme boldness as well as lightness. 
The ascent of the tower (6 kr.) gives 
a good idea of the beauty of the 
building :—the view is better from the 
Schlossberg. 

Beneath the tower is the main en¬ 
trance into the church, by a magnificent 
portal, richly ornamented with sculp¬ 
tures. The portal leading into the 
choir from the N. also deserves atten¬ 
tion ; the sculptures ' below the arch 
represent the Ci'eation by the Deity in 
the form of an old man, shaping the 
sun, moon, and stars out of halls, and 
breathing life into Adam. 

The interior of the church contains 
the monument and armed effigy of 
Berchtold V., last Duke of Zahringen 
(1228); an artistic carved pulpit, the 
work of George Ivempf, 1561; and a 
singular piece of sculpture of the Lord’s 
Supper, consisting of 13 figures, by an 
artist named Hauser, 1561. The win¬ 
dows are filled -with stained glass, of 
beautiful colours; the oldest is of the 
15th cent.; that of the choir, supe¬ 
rior in point of drawing, dates only 
from the beginning of the 16th. That 
in St. Alexander’s or the Miners’ 
Chapel , is from designs of Baldung 
Grim, 1515, and vciy fine. Some good 
modern painted glass has been inserted. 

In the chapel of St. Martin (Locher- 
ers), on the N. of the choir, a remark¬ 
able carving in wood represents the 
Virgin, sheltering beneath her mantle a 
whole host of worshippers of all ranks, 


including popes, cardinals, bishops, &c., 
date 1520. Prior (Domprohst) Boek- 
lin’s chapel contains his monumental 
effigy in armour, and a Crucifix of silver, 
hammered and gilt, of Eastern work¬ 
manship. 

The painting over the high altar, set 
within an elegant Gothic framework, is 
by Hans Baldung Griin (an old painter 
of Gmiind in Swabia, d. 1552). The 
chief subject, in the centre when the 
doors are opened, is the Ascension of the 
Virgin and her Coronation by the First 
and Second Persons in the Trinity : on 
the shutters at either side are the 12 
Apostles. The outside of these is occu¬ 
pied by 4 subjects—the Annunciation, 
Visitation of Elizabeth, Birth of Christ, 
and Flight into Egypt (perhaps the 
best). At the back of these paintings 
are others by B. Griin also, visible from 
the choir aisle, the chief piece being a 
row of portraits of magistrates of Frei¬ 
burg. On the one side ace St. George 
and St. Lawrence; on the other, St. John 
Baptist and St. Jerome as a cardinal. 
It is curious, rather than beautiful, as 
a work of art. The Bishop’s throne, 
carved in wood, 1851, deserves notice. 

The University Chapel in the S. aisle 
contains 2 good pictures by Holbein , in 
his early style — a Nativity, and an 
Adoration of the Magi; the latter very 
fine, especially the figure of the Virgin. 
It was painted for the Oberriedt family, 
whose portraits are introduced below. 

The University, founded 1456,has only 
228 students. It is the Roman Catholic 
seminary of the Grand Duchy of Baden. 
Heidelberg is Protestant. Freiburg is 
now the see of an archbishop. 

Near the gate leading to Frankfurt 
stands the Protestant Church , an ele¬ 
gant building in Romanesque (Byzan¬ 
tine) style, with an octagon tower. It 
was skilfully transferred, stone by stone, 
from an old convent at Thennenbach, 
15 m. off in the forest. 

The Kaufhaus , S. of the cathedral, is 
a very quaint Gothic building of the 
16th cent., resting on pointed arches, 
decorated externally with fresco por¬ 
traits gilt of the Empr. Maximilian, his 
son Philip I., Charles V., and Ferdinand 






570 


Sect. VIII. 


ROUTE 106. —BADEN WE1LER. 


I. The Gothic portal under the arcade 
exhibits a singular arrangement. A 
sandstone statue of Berthold Schwartz , 
the monk, inventor of gunpowder, has 
been set up here. 

2 Gothic Fountains in the Kaiser 
strasse, with statues of bishops, knights, 
and saints, and in the same statue to 
Duke Berthold III., founder of Frei¬ 
burg, are worth notice. The town 
is flourishing from the wine and 
timber trade and the manufacture 
of chicory. There are delight¬ 
ful Walks round the castle hill 
(Schlossberg ), about £ hr.’s walk from 
The minster. The ascent begins near 
the Schwaben Thor. The eye ranges 
over the vale of the Dreisam, bounded 
m the distance by the waving outline 
of the Black Forest Hills rising one be¬ 
hind another. The filigree work of the 
spire is seen from this to the greatest 
advantage. 

The beautiful scenery of the Hollen- 
thal , on the way from Freiburg to Schaff- 
hausen, is described in Bte. 109. A 
traveller, not intending to pass through 
it on his way to Switzerland, should 
make an excursion from Freiburg as far 
as Steig, 11 m., to explore its beauties. 

Eilwagen daily to Donaueschengin, 
through the Hollenthal; to Alt-Breisach 
in 2 ^ hrs., and thence to Colmar Stat. 
on the railway. See Hbk. France. 

[16 m. W. of Freiburg, on a high 
rock above the rt. bank of the 
Bhine, stands Alt-Breisach (Post), a 
decayed town, once a frontier fortress, 
and the key of Germany on the W., but 
with nothing to show its former impor¬ 
tance save the Minster of St. Stephen , 
Gothic, 13th centy., on a hill. The choir 
is raised on a crypt supported by reeded 
piers. The transepts Bomanesque. It 
contains a fine old Food Screen, 
some monuments, and a silver shrine, 
which held the relics of the mar¬ 
tyrs Gcrvasius and Protasius, found 
by St. Ambrose at Milan. Its chief 
curiosity, howevei’, is its beautiful 
Altar Screen , carved in wood. The 
central compartment, a Coronation of the | 


Virgin, a very masterly work of art, 
with the date 1597, has the monogram 
of the sculptor, Hans Leifrink, or 
Leychman. The l.-hand shutter bears 
patron saints of the town ; the rt.-hand 
is occupied by St. Stephen and St. 
Lawrence. The whole is surmounted 
by pinnacles, that in the centre reach¬ 
ing up to the roof. A monument to 
the Grand Duke of Baden, Carl Frede¬ 
rick, has been placed on the top of the 
Fggardsberg , where once stood the 
Citadel. It sustained a memorable 
siege, 1638, from the Swedes under 
Duke Bernhard of Saxe-Weimar. 
Flying bridge across the Bhine on 
road to Colmar, by Neu Breisach ( Inn , 
H. de France).] 

The Baden Railway —Trains—fast, in 
1 ^; slow, in 2~ hrs.—to Basle from 
Freiburg. 

Schallstadt Stat. 

Rrotzingen Stat. {Inti : Post.) Near 
this are the ruins of Staufenburg 
Castle. 

Heitersheim Stat. 

Miilheim Stat. {Inns: Kittler’s;— 
Krone). [Omnibus from this to 3 m. 
E. to 

The Baths of Badenweiler {Inns : 
Stadt Carlsruhe, fine view ; Bomerbad, 
both good), a rapidly increasing water¬ 
ing-place. The waters were known 
to the Bomans, and the Baths 
erected by them were discovered, 1748, 
in a very perfect state of preserva¬ 
tion. They consist of 4 large and 8 
smaller baths, and include a vapour- 
bath, anointing-room, dressing-room, 
&c. They are regarded as the most 
perfect out of Borne, and are 324 ft. 
long by 100 broad. An inscription found 
on the spot proves that they were de¬ 
dicated to Diana Abnoba. This plea¬ 
sant little place, 1400 ft. above the sea 
level, is now furnished with a handsome 
Cursaal , from EisenlohPs plans. Behind 
it rises the Castle , ruined by the French, 
1688, a capital point of view. Cold 
water, which is scarce here, has been 
conveyed in a conduit from the Blauen 
to Badenweiler. Excursions may be 
made to the castle of Biirgeln , 6 m., 







Baden . 


571 


ROUTE 106. —BADEN-BADEN - . 


and to the top of the Blauen mountain 
(6 m.), 3597 ft. high, the loftiest in 
the district. Still finer is the pano¬ 
rama of the Vosges, Jura, Alps, and 
Black Forest from the Belchen. The 
excellent white wine called Mar kg rafter, 
the best which Baden produces, is 
grown near this. 

Sulzburg, to the N.E., was the birth¬ 
place of Schopflin the Reformer. 

At Neuenburg, 3 m. W. of Miilheim, 
Duke Bernard of Saxe Weimar died, 
1639, poisoned, it was supposed, by 
Richelieu.] 

SchliengenStat. (Inn, Baselstab.) Here 
an action was fought between Moreau 
and the Archduke Charles, 1796. 

The Railway approaches the Rhine, 
here encroached upon by hills, which 
are bored by 3 short tunnels. 

Efringen Stat. Through fine scenery. 

JIaltingen Stat. 

The Baden custom-house is at Leo- 
poldshohe, but passengers’ baggage is 
strictly examined at Basle Stat., which 
belongs to Baden (§ 32). 

Basle Terminus in Little Basle. 
Handbook for Switzerland (Rtc. 1). 


ROUTE 106. 

CARLSRUHE (OOS) TO BADEN-BADEN— 
BRANCH RAILWAY. 

•5 Germ. m. = 3 Eng. m. 

This railroad branches off from the 
Great Baden railroad at the Oos stat. 
(Rte. 105, p. 566.) Beyond Oos the 


valley begins to contract and the hills 
to rise on either side. On the 1. the old 
castle of Baden is seen crowning the 
summit of a fir-clad hill. On the rt. 
rises the hill of Yburg, on which an¬ 
other castle is perched. Both of them 
were, perhaps, Roman forts originally. 

1 ^- Baden Terminus (called Baden- 
Baden, to distinguish it from places 
of the same name in Switzerland 
and near Vienna). Inns: Badischer 
Hof (much frequented by the Eng¬ 
lish), good, excellent table-d’hote;— 
II. Victoria, a handsome house;—H. de 
1’Europe, opposite the Conversations- 
haus and Trinkhalle;—H. d’Angleterre, 
an excellent house;—II. de Russie, 
clean and good, comfortable and mode¬ 
rate. *11. de Hollande, good. Charges 
at these hotels nearly alike: rooms 
from 1^ fl. upwards, lights 24 lu\, break¬ 
fast 42 kr.; table-d’hote at 5, 2 fl.; 
servants 24 kr. II. de France;— 
Zahringer Hof. Charges in 2 nd class 
Inn : room 48 kr. to 1 fl. 12 kr. ; ligh s 
18 kr.; breakfast 28 kr.; dinners at l, 
1 fl. 12 kr.; at 5, 1 fl. 36 kr.; servants 
18 kr. There are many other inns, and 
nearly j of the houses in the town are 
let as lodgings, but do not provide 
dinners. The price of rooms varies, 
according to season and situation, from 
l£ fl. to 12 or 14 fl. a week. A bath 
costs 24 kr.=8^<7. Some of the inns 
are provided with baths, but there is 
no building here appropriated exclu¬ 
sively to bathing. The best wines of the 
country are Affenthaler (red), Klingel- 
berger, and Markgrafler. 

There can be but one opinion as tc 
the beauty of the situation of the town 
of Baden, embosomed among hills form¬ 
ing an offset or commencement of the 
Black Forest range, and seated in the 
narrow valley of the Oos, a stream 
which, though insignificant in size, once 
formed the boundary-line between the 
Franks and Alemanni. The town has 
about 9000 permanent Inhab., and is 
built chiefly on the slope of a hill, the 
sides of which, above the streets, are 
dotted with bright villas and gardens. 
The mineral springs were known to 
and appreciated by the Romans, who 
fixed a colony here, and called it Civitas 






o?2 


ROUTE 106.— BADEN-BADEN. SPRINGS. 


Sect. VIII. 


Aurelia Aquensis. It was for 6 centuries 
the abode of the Margraves of Baden, 
until the incendiary devastation of the 
Palatinate by the French caused them 
to remove to Rastadt in the flat plain of 
the Rhine. At present the Grand Duke 
of Baden occasionally visits his Villa 
here, but resides principally during the 
summer at his Castle of Eberstein. Ba¬ 
den may be considered one of the most 
fashionable German watering-places 
(§ 41). During the season princes may 
be met with in abundance, but are usu¬ 
ally outnumbered by blacklegs. The 
influx and concourse of visitors has 
greatly increased of late, and, in con¬ 
sequence, the number of new inns and 
other buildings has multiplied pro¬ 
portionately. It is by far the most 
beautiful of the baths of North Ger¬ 
many in its situation, even surpassing 
in this respect the Brunnen of Nassau. 
The surrounding country, Without the 
sublimity and grandeur of Switzer¬ 
land, is distinguished by a pleasing 
and romantic wildness: it is, as it 
were, a prelude to the Alps. The neigh¬ 
bourhood will afford almost endless gra¬ 
tification in the beauty of its prospects 
and the number and variety of the rides 
and walks, cut for miles in every direc¬ 
tion through the forests and up the sur¬ 
rounding hills. 

Whatever be the taste or disposition 
of the traveller, he will assuredly find 
something to please him here. There 
are saloons, promenades, balls, concerts, 
gaming-tables, and other luxuries of a 
capital; and, on the other hand, 20 dif¬ 
ferent paths, leading in 10 min. into the 
depths of dark woods or deep valleys, 
where he may enjoy solitude so com¬ 
plete that he may fancy himself far 
from the haunts of men, and shade 
even in the height of summer. The 
months of July and August are the 
season when the baths are most fre¬ 
quented, but visitors are constantly 
coming and going from May to October, 
if the weather be fine. Of late years 
more than 50,000 persons have visited 
Baden in one season, chiefly French. 
The number of English visitors increases 
so much of late that the place assumes 
the appearance of a settlement of our 
countrymen. This influx has the effect of 


diminishing its advantages of cheapness 
and retirement, as within a few years 
the price of everything has been raised 
nearly one half. After October the soil 
and climate are extremely damp—the 
grassy banks are oozing with water, 
which the granitic substratum will not 
absorb, and the hotels and lodging- 
houses suffer greatly from moisture. 

The Hot Springs (13 in number) burst 
out of the rocks at the foot of the castle 
terrace, called Schneckengarten, behind 
the parish church. That part of the 
town goes by the name of “ Hell,” and 
in the coldest weather snow never rests 
upon it. Neither summer nor winter 
produces any variation in the tempera¬ 
ture of the springs. The hottest are 54° 
Reaum., the coldest 37°. Water from 
them is conveyed through the town in 
pipes, to supply the different baths, and 
loses little of its warmth in the passage; 
but the supply greatly exceeds the de¬ 
mand, so that some of the sources are 
used by the townspeople to scald their 
pigs and poultry. A building in the 
form of a temple is erected over the 
principal spring (Ursprung), one of the 
hottest as well as most copious sources. 
The vault of masonry which encloses 
the spring is of Roman construction. 

Neptune seems to have been the 
adopted patron of Baden and of 
this medicinal fountain. Remains 
of Roman vapour-baths, well preserved, 
were discovered in 1847 just beneath the 
new castle. The mineral water which 
comes out of the rock was conducted by 
a canal to a subterraneous chamber of 
about 20 ft. in breadth and 40 in length, 
from which the vapour ascended to the 
bathing-room by a great many pipes 
which open all round its walls. The 
floor is supported by small columns 
3 ft. high. 

The Neue Trinkhalle (i. e. Pump- 
room), a colonnade joined by flat arches, 
on the public walks, and nearly on a 
line with the Conversationshaus, is 
from Hlibsch’s design, and is covered 
with faded frescoes, representing le¬ 
gends of the Black Forest. The hot 
water is conducted in pipes from the 
source, and other mineral waters, goat’s 








Baden . 


ROUTE 106 . —CONVERSATIONSHAUS. BADEN-BADEN. 


573 - 


whey, &c., are to be bad. Tbe com¬ 
pany assembles here between 6^ and 
a.m. to drink the waters, and tbe 
band plays. 

On the 1. bank of tbe Oosbacb, oppo¬ 
site to tbe town, are tbe Promenade 
and tbe Conversationshaus , a handsome 
building with a Corinthian portico, 
surrounded by pleasure-grounds, form 
ing the lounge and chief resort—in 
fact, tbe grand focus of attraction for 
the visitors at Uaden. It is one of tbe 
most splendid establishments of the kind 
in Germany, and includes a very fine 
and large assembly-room, where there 
is dancing at times, to which people 
repair in their morning dress. Gaming¬ 
tables are open and occupied from 
midday to midnight. There is a Res¬ 
taurant in the rt. wing, where dinners 
may be had h la carte; and in the 1. 
the Library and Reading-room of M. 
Marx. 

Strangers who intend to remain any 
time here may subscribe for a fortnight 
or month to the rooms and balls. In 
the shop of Marx the bookseller there is 
a Circulating Library and reading-room, 
open to all, where The Times, Galignani’s 
Messenger, and other English papers 
are taken in. The shady avenues leading 
to the Conversationshaus are occupied 
by shops of traders from various parts of 
Europe—Tyrol, Switzerland, Paris—all 
selling their national commodities, and 
commonly not very cheap. In the after¬ 
noon, when dinner is over, the walks 
and colonnades in front of the Con¬ 
versationshaus become the fashionable 
resort, and are crowded with people 
sipping coffee and ices, or smoking; 
and a band of music is stationed close 
at hand. 

After 6 p.M. the Lichtenthaler Altec 
is crowded with gay equipages, groups of 
equestrians, and “ The Corso” may be 
compared with the Ping in Hyde Park 
or the Bois de Boulogne. 

The rouge-et-noir and roulette tables, 
though opened for a forenoon course of 
gambling, are chiefly frequented in the 
evening, and stakes become higher as 
the night advances. Females are some¬ 


times seen at them as well as men, ladies 
but rarely. Players alone are allowed 
to be seated. 

The Conversationshaus is let out by 
the government of Baden to a company 
of speculators, who pay for the ex¬ 
clusive privilege of opening gambling- 
tables 11,000/. annually, and agree 
to spend in addition 250,000 fl. on the 
walks and buildings. Some idea may 
be formed from this of the vast sums of 
money which must be yearly lost by the 
dupes who frequent this licensed gaming¬ 
house. The whole is under the direction 
of M. Benazet, who formerly farmed 
the gambling-houses of Paris. He has 
fitted up the interior with much taste 
and great splendour. The gaming¬ 
tables draw hither much disreputable 
society, and must be considered as a 
very serious disadvantage to the place. 
It is chiefly through their baneful in¬ 
fluence that Baden has sadly fallen off 
in respectability of late years. 

Immediately above the highest houses 
of the town rises das Neue Schloss (new 
castle) summer residence of the Grand 
Duke of Baden—called new only by way 
of distinguishing it from the still older 
castle on the very summit of the hill 
above, in which the Duke’s ancestors 
resided during the insecure times of the 
middle ages, down to 1471, when the 
present new schloss was founded. It 
was burnt and ruined in the fatal year 
1689 by the French army that ravaged 
the Palatinate, but was afterwards re¬ 
stored in its present form. It is an 
ugly building, remarkable for its 
situation and the curious Dungeons be¬ 
neath it. Under the guidance of the 
castellan (admission at all times 30 kr., 
or 18 kr. when the party exceeds 2), 
the stranger is conducted into these 
singular vaults down a winding stair, 
under the tower in the rt.-hand cor¬ 
ner of the inner court, through an 
ancient bath constructed by the Ho¬ 
mans. This entrance has been broken 
through in modern times; originally 
the dungeons were only accessible 
from above, by a perpendicular shaft or 
chimney running through the centre 
of the building, and still in existence. 
The visitor, in passing under it, can 
barely discern the daylight at the top. 





574 


Sect. VIII* 


llTE. 106. —BADEN-BADEN. CHURCH. 


According to tradition, prisoners, bound 
fast in an arm-chair and blindfolded, 
were let down by a windlass into these 
dark and mysterious vaults and wind¬ 
ing passages, excavated out of the solid 
rock on which the castle is founded. 
The dungeons were closed, not with doors 
of wood or iron, but with solid slabs of 
stone, turning upon pivots, and inge¬ 
niously fitted. Several of them still 
remain; they are nearly a foot thick, 
and weigh from 1200 to 2000 lbs. In 
one chamber, loftier than the rest, called 
the Rack Chamber (Folter-Kammer), the 
instruments of torture stood; a row of 
iron rings, forming part of the fearful 
apparatus, still remains in the wall. In 
a passage adjoining there is a well or 
pit in the floor, now boarded over, ori¬ 
ginally covered with a trap-door. The 
prisoner upon whom doom had been 
passed was led into this passage, and 
desired to kiss an image of the Virgin 
placed at the opposite end; but no sooner 
did his feet rest on the trap-door than it 
gave way beneath his weight, and pre¬ 
cipitated him to a great depth below, 
upon a machine composed of wheels, 
armed with lancets, by which he was 
torn to pieces. This dreadful punish¬ 
ment was called the “ Baiser de la 
Vierge,” and the fatal pit, with its trap¬ 
door, an oubliette; because those who 
were precipitated down itwere “ oublies ,” 
never heard of more. The secret of 
this terrible dungeon remained un¬ 
known until, as the story goes, an at¬ 
tempt to rescue a little dog, which had 
fallen through the planking above the 
pit, led to the discovery, at a depth of 
many yards, of fragments of ponderous 
wheels set round with rusty knives, 
with portions of bones, rags, and torn 
garments adhering to them. 

The last and largest of these vaults 
is called the Hall of Judgment. Here 
the judges sat upon stone benches, 
remains of which may still be traced 
round the wall. Behind the niche 
where the president (Blutrichter) sat 
is the outlet to a subterranean passage, 
by which the members of the court en¬ 
tered ; it is said to have communicated 
at one time with the Alte Schloss on 
the top of the hill, but is now walled up. 

According to popular belief, these 


dungeons were the seat of a Secret Tri¬ 
bunal (Vehmgericht), such as that de¬ 
scribed so well by Scott in Anne of 
Geierstein, and by Gothe in Gotz of 
Berlichingen. It must be remembered, 
however, that the famous Vehme of 
Westphalia held its meetings, not in 
the dark, nor in dungeons, but in broad 
day, and in the open field. (See 
Dortmund.) 

There is little doubt that these pri¬ 
sons were the place of meeting of a 
mysterious tribunal, over which the lord 
of the castle most probably presided. 
Similar prisons (excepting the stone 
doors) are to be found in almost every 
well-preserved baronial fortress of the 
middle ages; and, though sometimes* 
appropriated to the trial of real offences 
committed within the seigneur’s juris¬ 
diction, were not unfrequently the in¬ 
struments of tyranny, and the scenes of 
dark crime; while at the best, from the 
secrecy of the proceedings, such a trial 
must have been but “ wild justice.” 

The upper part of the castle, con¬ 
taining portraits of the Baden family, 
rich ceilings and wood carvings, is also 
worth notice on account of the fine 
view from its windows, and from the 
Pavilion on the terrace. See the open 
shaft running through the building 
from top to bottom, within the winding 
staircase, which was the means of access 
to the dungeons below, and served 
to convey air into those subterranean 
chambers. The small garden ad¬ 
joining the castle, called Schnecken- 
garten (snail garden, because snails 
were once bred in it for the table) and 
the terrace, are agreeable walks, com¬ 
manding fine views. 

The Parish Church is noticed chiefly 
as being the burial-place of the Mar¬ 
graves of Baden, and as containing 
several of their monuments. The most 
conspicuous is that of Margrave Louis 
William, who distinguished himself 
against the Turks, and was the im¬ 
practicable colleague of Marlborough 
and Eugene. In the teeth of his 
epitaph, “ Atlas Germanise, semper 
vicit, nunquam victus,” it must be 
recorded that he was thrashed by 
Marshal Villars at Friedlingen, 1702, 





Baden. 


575 


HTE. 106 . —BADEN-BADEN. EXCURSIONS. 


and at Haguenan, 1706. He died 
1707. Ilis monument is by Pigalle (the 
sculptor of that of Marshal Saxe 
at Strasburg), and is not in good 
taste. Margrave Frederick, although 
Bishop of Utrecht, is represented on his 
tomb clad in armour, but with a mitre 
on his head instead of a helmet. An¬ 
other of the family, Leopold William, 
also fought against the infidel, in token 
of which his monument (one of the 
best in the collection) is supported by 
Turks, chained. • Ho was the colleague 
of Stahremberg and Montecucoli, and 
died at Warasdin in Hungary, 1671. 
At the E. end of the town is a Convent 
of nuns of the Holy Sepulchre : their 
dress is black, in sign of mourning; to 
bo worn until the Holy Sepulchre shall 
be again rescued from the Infidels by 
the Christians. The sisters conduct a 
female school; the service in their con¬ 
vent chapel, aided by the voices of a 
female choir, is very impressive and 
pleasing. 

The English Church Service is performed 
every Sunday in the very pretty Eng¬ 
lish Church , built and consecrated 1867, 
at 11 A.m. and 3 or 4 p.m. English 
visitors usually subscribe towards the 
stipend of the clergyman. 

The Russo-Greek Chapel , on the hill 
behind the Pump-room, was built by 
Prince Michel Stourdza to contain the 
grand monument of his son. Leo von 
Kleuze was architect. The interior is 
decorated with paintings. 

Dr. Hermann Muller, a resident Ger¬ 
man physician, understands the English 
language and practice. Dr. Chelius, 
the celebrated physician from Heidel¬ 
berg, is here in the season. 

Railways. —To Frankfort— Freiburg 
—Basle—to Strasburg in 2 hrs.; thence 
to Paris (express once a-day in 10 hfs.). 

Hired carriages , donkeys , and riding- 
horses are to be had in abundance dur¬ 
ing the season at all the principal inns. 
About 2 or 3 in the afternoon they 
collect at the end of the avenue leading 
to the Conversationshaus, to await 


employers. All the charges are fixed 
according to distance, by a printed 
tariff (taxe). 

Excursions. — A stranger cannot be 
at a loss for excursions: let him follow 
almost any path leading out of the 
town, and he will find it a pleasant 
walk. One of the most agreeable, 
and usually the first taken, is that to 
(a) das alte Schloss (2^ m., an hour’s 
walk), the conspicuous ruin which rises 
out of the woods on the summit of the 
hill above the town. A carriage-road, 
commencing behind das neue Schloss > 
leads up the hill to it in zigzags, but 
a shorter foot-path is open for pedes¬ 
trians, or those who trust to mules and 
asses, the usual beasts of burden em¬ 
ployed in this excursion. The shade 
of the woods through which the path 
winds alleviates the fatigue of the 
ascent in the heat of the day, while 
seats, opportunely placed, wherever a 
projecting rock displays the view to 
advantage, enable the wanderer to re¬ 
cruit his strength, if weary. 

The Alte Schloss was the earliest 
residence of the ancestors of the reign¬ 
ing house of Baden. Its situation 
afforded its owners security from foes 
during many centuries of rapine and 
disorder. At length, in the 15th cent., 
when the right of private warfare was 
abolished, the Lords of Baden ven¬ 
tured to descend from their tower on 
high, and settled in the New Chateau, 
close to the town. This interesting 
and picturesque old ruin was disman¬ 
tled and reduced to its present state 
by the French in the devastating war 
of the Palatinate. The view which the 
galleries round its mouldering battle¬ 
ments afford is the most pleasing and 
extensive in the neighbourhood of 
Baden. On one side are seen the dark 
hills of the Black Forest, luxuriantly 
clothed with the woods from which 
they get their name, contrasting with 
the verdure of the valleys they enclose, 
while the town of Baden at our feet, 
numberless villages, church spires, con¬ 
vents, and mills, clustering on the 
borders of winding streams, fill the 
foreground : on the other side, the hills 






576 


ROUTE 106. —BADEN. LICIITENTHAL. 


Sect. VIII. 


subside into the plain of the Rhine, 
whose course may he traced in the 
distance, backed by the Yosges Moun¬ 
tains in France. 

A path leading from the gateway of 
the castle to the left, and winding 
round the shoulder of the hill, conducts 
to Ebersteinburg (2 m.), another ruin, 
near a village of the same name. 
This is an agreeable prolongation of 
the morning’s excursion. Walks are 
also cut in the hill above the castle to 
the curious rocks called Felsenbriicke 
on the summit, whence a good view 
over the level land to Strasburg may 
be enjoyed. 

(b) The views from the top of the other 
hills around Baden, the Jagdhaus 
(Hunting Lodge, from which the spire 
of Strasburg maybe seen), (c) the Yburg , 

6 m. (accessible for carriages only part 
of the way—to the foot of the hill), and 
(d) the Mercuriusberg , 5 m. (on whose 
summit a tower is built), partake more 
or less of the character of that from the 
Alte Schloss. Nevertheless, a person 
residing some time at Baden will find 
each of them a pleasant excursion, ; 
affording most excellent situations for a 
picnic party, (e) More distant but very 
interesting are the ruins of Allerheiligen 
Abbey, taking the rail to Achern Stat. 
(see Index). 

(f ) Lichtenthal. An avenue of shady J 
oaks, commencing near the S. end 
of the town of Baden, leads up the 
valley to the Convent of Lichtenthal , 

1 J m. It was richly endowed in ancient 
days by the Margraves of Baden, but 
has undergone the fate of all such reli¬ 
gious establishments; its revenues only 
escaped entire confiscation by the inter¬ 
ference of the Grand Duke, but the 
number of its' inmates is now reduced 
to 20 nuns. In tbe older and smaller 
of the two churches attached to the 
convent are many curious monuments 
of the Margraves, bearing their mailed 
effigies, and the crest of goat’s horn 
displayed on their helmets : one prince 
lies on a slab or table, clad in mail, with 
bars of iron running down the sleeves, 
a curious transition from chain to plate 
armour. 

The Orphan-house attached to the 
convent is one of the foundations of the 


charitable London tailor Stultz, who 
was created a nobleman by the Grand 
Duke of Baden. 

The convent and the village of Ober- 
beuern , close to Lichtenthal, lie at the 
entrance of a beautiful valley, which 
well deserves to be explored. It is 
the picture of quiet seclusion, a minia¬ 
ture of a Swiss valley. A clear rippling 
stream flows through the midst, and 
sets in activity several saw-mills ; rich 
verdant meadows and well cultivated 
cornfields line its banks, and extend 
up to the hem of the forest, which 
clothes all the hills around with its 
dark foliage. A carriage-road leads by 
Geroldsau, a picturesque village, to a 
waterfall called the Butte (6 m. from 
Baden). The drive is pleasant; but as 
for the waterfall, it is a paltry jet, 
dried up for a great part of the season, 
when its attractions are most needed. 

A pedestrian disposed to take a good 
long walk may go to Yburg, proceed 
thence with a guide over the hills to 
Geroldsau and the waterfall, and return 
to Baden by Lichtenthal, making alto¬ 
gether 12 or 13 miles. 

A traveller pressed for time may visit 
the most interesting objects around 
Baden in 6 hrs., with a carriage and 
2 horses, costing 6 or 7 florins (consult 
the Tarif). After seeing the Old Schloss, 
which will take up 3 hrs. on foot, he 
may drive by Lichtenthal to Neu- 
Eberstein; thence descend theMurgthal 
to Gernsbach, by Ottenau, Rothenfels 
(good Inn ), and Kuppenheim, to the 
Favourite; whence he may return to 
Baden in time for the evening pro¬ 
menade and Corso. 

• 

( g ) The most pleasing excursion, how¬ 
ever, beyond doubt, among the many 
which lie within the reach of the visitor 
at Baden, is that to the Valley of the 
Murg and Neu Eberstein (7 m.) and 
back, which will occupy a morning or 
afternoon. 

An admirably constructed road leads 
by Lichtenthal and Beuern direct to 
Schloss Eberstein, a drive of 2 hrs., 
winding gradually over the ridge of 
steep hills, a spur or promontory shoot¬ 
ing out from the Black Forest range, 







Baden . 


ROUTE 107. —BADEN TO STRASBURG. 


577 


which divides the valley of Baden from 
that of the Murg. 

The Castle of Neu Eberstein , an an¬ 
cestral fortalice of the Grand Ducal 
family, projects forward on the summit 
of a beetling crag, in a situation ena¬ 
bling its owners, in ancient days, to 
command the passage up and down 
the stream and valley, and to take 
toll from all comers. The old feudal 
ruin has been built up into a modern 
residence. Strangers are freely ad¬ 
mitted to see it. In front of it, on a 
stone pedestal, is placed a huge statue 
of a wild* boar. (Eber.) The Gothic 
furniture, ancient armour, and painted 
glass with which it is decorated, though 
curious, will hardly distract the stran¬ 
ger’s attention from the exquisite view 
which he will gain from the platform in 
front. The road descends in zigzags 
from the castle-gate to the Murg, and 
joins a shorter footpath through the 
wood, at a little white chapel called 
Der Klingel , the resort of pilgrims at 
certain seasons. 

In the small town of Gemsbach (Inns: 
Stem; Lowe), 2000 Inhab., the saw¬ 
mills, which abound, are employed in 
cutting into planks the noble trees of 
the Black Forest, which, having been 
floated down the Murg, arc here sorted, 
cut, and made up into rafts, to find 
their way down the Rhine to Holland. 

There is good fishing in the Murg 
(trout and grayling), from Gernsbach to 
Forbach. 

Railway down the valley of the Murg 
to Rastadt by Rothenfels, which has a 
fine hotel, pleasantly situated on the 
Murg, in pretty grounds, near a mineral 
spring called the Elizabethenquelle. 

[Those who intend to wander further 
up the valley above Eberstein will find 
a footpath descending from the castle 
straight to the village of Oberzroth, 
where they again reach the side of 
the Murg. The road is rough, and in 
places very steep. The villages passed 
in succession are Ililpertsau, where 
the road crosses over to the rt. bank 
of the Murg; Weissenbach; Langen- 
brand, on a lofty granite rock, a 
very striking object; Gausbach, where 

r o-] 


the wooden houses resemble those of 
Switzerland; and Forbach (Inn, Krone, 
dirty), the last village belonging to 
Baden, 12 m. from Baden. Forbach 
generally forms the limits of a day’s 
excursion, if the traveller intends re¬ 
turning the same day to Baden. Tho 
vale of the Murg is the entrance to 
other very beautiful valleys of tho 
Black Forest. 

In the side valley of tho Rauhmunz- 
ach, a few miles above Forbach, and in 
the midst of the mountains, may be 
seen a kind of tank (Schwellung), 
formed by damming up the stream, 
which is opened at stated periods to 
float down vast masses of timber. 
The valley of the Murg loses its 
beauty in its upper extremity. Tho 
frontier of Wurtemberg is reached at 
the post station Schonmiinznach (Inns: 
Post and Zum Waldhorn), 2 posts from 
Wildbad. See Handbook of South Ger¬ 
many , Route 162, where the road from 
Baden to Wildbad is described.] 


ROUTE 107. 

BADEN TO STRASBURG—RAILWAY. 

A branch line from the Appenweier 
Stat., on the Great Baden railway 
(Rte. 105), leads W. to Kehl and Stras- 
burg. Trains run in 25 min. 

Kork Stat. Over marshy ground. 

2 Kehl Stat.— Inn: Post, or Weisses 
Lamm; Buffet. 

Kehl, on the bank of the Rhine, at 
the confluence of the Kinzig and Schut- 
ter with the Rhine, though dignified 
by the name of a town, resembles more 
nearly a village. It was once a strong 
fortress of the German empire, strength¬ 
ened as a bulwark against France, and 
has consequently been bombarded, 
burned, and razed more than a dozen 
times by French armies on crossing the 

2 G 







578 


110UTE 107. —STRASBURG. CATHEDRAL. 


Sect. VIII. 


Rhine. At present its fortifications 
are dismantled, but the German Confe¬ 
deration have caused the towns of 
Germersheim on the 1. hank of the 
Rhine, and Rastadt on the rt., to he con¬ 
verted into places of strength. 

As the French Custom-house must 
he encountered on the opposite side of 
the Rhine, persons wishing merely 
to see Strasburg, and not to penetrate 
farther into France, had better leave 
their baggage at Kehl Stat. The dis¬ 
tance to Strasburg is nearly 4 m. 
The gate at the end of the bridge of 
Kehl is closed soon after sunset. 

An iron Lattice Bridge of 5 spans 
on 4 piers, erected 1861, carries the 
Railway over the Rhine from Kehl to 
Strasburg. The 2 outer arches are 
moveable and swing aside to let vessels 
pass. The bridge was blown up in 
the war between France and Germany, 
1870. 

The Rhine opposite Strasburg is 
divided into 2 branches by an island, 
upon which stands the French Custom¬ 
house, and (1.) a little way beyond 
it, surrounded by willows, the monu¬ 
ment erected to General Dessaix, in¬ 
scribed with the words 11 a Dessaix, 
l’Armee du Rhin, 1800.” The island 
is connected with the mainland by a 
bridge of boats on each side. Ap¬ 
proaching the city, the railroad passes 
on the S. side of the Citadel of Stras¬ 
burg, considered a masterpiece of the 
skill of Yauban; and, a few hundred 
yards beyond it, reaches the 

Porte d’Austerlitz Stat. 

Near the Austerlitz gate, by which 
the road from Kehl enters Strasburg, 
is a milestone inscribed “ Route de 
Parish Vienne /” 

For persons intending to stop at 
Strasburg it is a good plan to alight 
here, where their baggage may be 
examined quickly by the douaniers, 
and an omnibus will carry hem to their 
hotels. They then avoid the bustle 
and delays of the Grande Stat. Those 
going on to Paris, however, must ad¬ 
here to the trains, which not only 
encircle the city, but make a wide 
sweep into the country before reaching 

Strasburg Stat. 

10 Strasburg (Germ. Strassburg).— 


Inns: Ville de Paris; a handsome house, 
good cuisine, best, but charges in * 
proportion ; — *Rothes Haus (Maison 
Rouge), on the Place Kleber, good; 
—Hotel d’Angleterre, near the Railway 
Stat. 

Strasburg, capital of the ancient 
province of Alsace (Elsass), is a strong 
frontier fortress, with 85,000 Inhab., 

(± Protestants), and a garrison of 10,000 
men, even in time of peace, on the 
Ill, which, on its way to join the 
Rhine, at the distance of about a mile, 
intersects the town in all directions, in 
canals. Strasburg is the Argentoratum 
of the Romans. 

Though it has been united to France 
for more than a cent, and a half, and 
forms at present the chief town in the 
Dept, du Bas Rhin, yet it bears all the 
external aspect of a German town in 
the appearance of its streets and houses, 
and in the costume and language of its 
inhabitants. Louis XIY. got possession 
of Strasburg, which was a Free Imperial 
city of the German empire, in 1681, by 
an unwarrantable attack during the 
time of peace. 

The principal and most interesting 
building in the town is the **Cathedral , 
or Munster , one of the noblest Gothic 
edifices in Europe, remarkable for its 
Spire , the highest in the world, rising 
468 ft. above the pavement; 24 ft. 
higher than the Great Pyramid of 
Egypt, and 140 ft. higher than St. 
Paul’s. The artist who designed this 
admirable masterpiece of airy open¬ 
work was Erwin of Steinbach: his 
plans are still preserved in the town. 
He died in 1318, when the work was 
only half finished: it was continued 
by his son, and afterwards by his 
daughter Sabina. The remains of this 
family of architects are interred within 
the cathedral. The tower was not com¬ 
pleted till 1439, long after their deaths, 
and 424 years after the church was 
commenced, by John Hiiltz of Cologne, 
who was summoned to Strasburg for 
this end. Had the original design been 
carried into execution, both the towers 
would have been raised to the same 
height. A doorway in the S. side 
of the truncated tower leads to the 
summit of the spire. On the platform, 





Baden. 


579 


ROUTE 107.-STRASBURG. PUBLIC BUILDINGS. 


about § of the way up, is a station for 
the watchmen, who are set to look out 
for fires (§ 43). One of them will ac¬ 
company any person who has permis¬ 
sion from the Mayor to mount the 
upper spire, and will unlock the iron 
grate which closes the passage. There 
is no difficulty or danger in the ascent 
to a person of ordinary nerve or steadi¬ 
ness of head; hut the stonework of the 
steeple is so completely open, and the 
pillars which support it are so wide 
apart, and cut so thin, that they more 
nearly resemble a collection of bars of 
iron or wood; so that at such a height 
one might almost fancy oneself sus¬ 
pended in a cage over the city; and, if 
the foot were to slip, the body might 
possibly drop through the open fret¬ 
work. At the same time, the elaborate¬ 
ness of the tracery, and the sharpness of 
the angles and ornaments, are proofs 
of the skill of the architect and the 
excellent materials he had chosen; and 
it is only by a close inspection -that the 
delicacy of the workmanship can be 
truly appreciated. Within a few feet 
of the top the winding stair terminates, 
under a species of carved rosette. 
Several instances are recorded of per¬ 
sons who have either fallen or have 
thrown themselves off the top. 

The view of the multitude of rusty- 
coloured tiled roofs of the town is not 
very pleasing ; nor is it the bird’s-eye 
panorama of the rich district around, 
of the Ehine and Black Forest in 
Germany, and of the Vosges Mountains 
on the side of France, that will reward 
the adventurous climber; but rather 
the exploit, the great elevation, and 
the near view which it affords of the 
steeple. 

Now, to descend to the body of the 
church. The exterior of the W. end 
deserves the most minute examina¬ 
tion. 

u The gigantic mass, over the solid 
part of which is thrown a netting of 
detached arcades and pillars, which, 
notwithstanding their delicacy, from 
the hardness and excellent preservation 
of the stone, are so true and sharp as 
to look like a veil of the finest cast- 
iron, contains a circular windoAV 48 
ft. in diameter, and rises to the height of 


230 ft.; i. e. higher than the towers of 
York Minster.”— Hope's Architecture. 

“ The building,” says Dr. Whewell, 

“ looks as though it were placed behind 
a rich open screen, or in a case of 
woven stone. The effect of the com¬ 
bination is very gorgeous, but with a 
sacrifice of distinctness from the mul¬ 
tiplicity and intersections of the lines.” 

The nave was begun in 1015, and 
finished in 1275. The Romanesque 
choir is part of an older building, attri¬ 
buted to the time of Charlemagne. The 
most remarkable things in the interior 
are the vast and beautiful W. marigold 
window, 43 ft. in diameter; the rich 
painted glass, executed in the 15th 
cent., filling nearly all the windows; 
the Font in the N. transept; the Pul¬ 
pit of carved stone (date 1487) ; and 
the famous Clock in the S. transept, 
made by a living artist of Strasburg 
to replace an older one which had 
fallen to decay. The full mechanism 
is set in motion at noon only. The S. 
transept is supported by a beautiful 
single pillar, ornamented with statues : 
above the Gothic border, which runs 
along the wall, appears a statue of the 
architect of the Minster, Erwin of 
Steinbach, carved by himself: he is 
interred here, and in 1835 his family 
tombstone was discovered in the little 
court behind the chapel of St. John. 

The Guild of Freemasons has existed 
at Strasburg since the foundation of 
the Minster, and is the parent of the 
lodges throughout Germany. 

The Frauenhaus , which belonged to 
the cathedral chapter, near the Minster, 
has an elegant Gothic winding-stair of 
stone, and some curious sculpture. Here 
are preserved many original designs of 
the architect of the Minster. 

In walking from the Munster to St. 
Thomas, you pass the Gutenberg's Flatz , 
in the midst of which is placed a bronze 
statue, by David (raised 1840), to John 
Gutenberg , by whom the earliest attempt 
at printing was made at Strasburg 
(about 1436) though he finally brought 
his invention to perfection at Mayence. 
Peter Schoffer, who assisted him, and 
made many improvements, particularly 
in the casting of metallic letters, was a 
citizen of Strasburg. 


2 C 2 







580 


ROUTE 107. —STRASBURG. PUBLIC BUILDINGS. Sect. VIII. 


The Ch. of St. Thomas , appropriated 
to the use of a Protestant congregation, 
contains the Monument of Marshal Saxe , 
the masterpiece of the sculptor Pigalle, 
erected to his memory by Louis XY. 
It represents the general descending 
with a calm mien to the grave, while 
Prance, personified in a beautiful fe¬ 
male figure, endeavours to detain him, 
and at the same time to stay the 
threatening advance of Death. It is 
looked upon as a very successful effort 
of the chisel: there is a tenderness of 
expression about the female figure 
which is truly charming. Schopflin, 
and a brother of the pastor Oherlin, are 
buried in this church ; and there are 
one or two other small monuments. 
Two bodies, a Count of Nassau-Saar- 
briicken-Saarwerden and his daughter, 
are shown, on account of the wonder¬ 
fully perfect state in which flesh and 
clothes have been preserved after the 
lapse of more than a cent. This is 
truly a disgusting spectacle. 

The Academie Roy ale, originally a 
Protestant school, founded 1538, raised 
to the dignity of a university in 1621, 
hut suppressed at the Revolution, has 
produced several remarkable scholars, 
as Schopflin, Oberlin, Schweighauser, 
&c. : here also Gothe completed his 
studies, and took his degree of Doctor 
in Laws, 1772. His residence at Stras- 
burg is admirably described in his auto¬ 
biography. The Academy possesses a 
Museum of Natural History , which ranks 
far higher than the common average of 
provincial collections. It is very com¬ 
plete in the productions of Alsace, and 
especially in the fossils of the gres bi- 
garre; and there is a large series of 
the fossil plants discovered at Sulz les 
Rains and Muhlhausen. The botanical 
collection contains the section of the 
trunk of a silver fir, from the Hoch- 
wald, near Barr; its diameter was 8 
ft. close to the ground, its height 150 
ft. There are many other specimens 
of woods preserved in such a manner 
as not only to interest the botanist, 
but to be useful to the practical man, 
to the carpenter and the like, by showing 
the texture and quality of the timber. 

The Public Library , of more than 
100,000 vols., boasts of many literary 


curiosities: the principal are, the 
4< Landsberg Missal” of Herrade, Ab¬ 
bess of Hohenberg, richly and co¬ 
piously decorated with illuminations 
and miniatures in the early Byzantine 
style, executed in 1180; a missal, 
written on purple vellum in silver let¬ 
ters ; many early printed books; Cicero, 
printed by Faust, 1465; a Bible, 
printed at Strasburg, 1466, by Egge- 
stein; Mentelin’s Bible, printed here 
in the same year. 

In the H. de Ville is a small collec¬ 
tion of pictures, including the St. 
Apollinus of Perugino. 

Persons interested in military mat¬ 
ters will be disposed to visit the 
Arsenal of a fortress so important as 
Strasburg: it contains fire-arms for 
155,000 men, and 952 pieces of cannon, 
412 of which are required for the de¬ 
fence of the town and the citadels. 
There is a cannon foundry here, and one 
of the largest depots of artillery in 
France. By means of large sluices, 
constructed in the time of Louis XY. 
by Yauban, at the spot where the Ill 
enters the town, the country around 
Strasburg, between the Rhine and the 
Ill, can be laid under water, and the 
city rendered unapproachable by an 
army, and almost impregnable. 

The Seminaire is a huge and hand¬ 
some edifice, close to the cathedral: it 
was originally the bishop’s palace. 

There is a good provincial Theatre 
here, near the square called Broglie, 
from a governor of Alsace of that name. 

Nowhere did the Jews suffer more 
cruel or tyrannical persecutions. The 
street called Brand Strasse (Fire- 
street) was so named because, on the 
spot where the Prefecture now stands, 
a bonfire was made, in 1348, to burn 
the Hebrews; and 2000 of that de¬ 
voted race, accused of having poisoned 
the wells and fountains, and thus caused 
the plague which desolated the city 
about this time, were consumed in the 
flames. From henceforth no Jew was 
allowed to live within the walls ; and 
the summons of a horn, blown every 
evening from the Minster tower, com¬ 
pelled them all to depart. 

The body of General Kleber (a 
native of Strasburg), originally in- 






-Baden. 


581 


ROUTE 108. —OFFENBURG TO CONSTANCE. 


ten’ed in the Minster, has been re¬ 
moved to a vault in the centre of the 
Place d’Armes (Paradeplatz), and a 
statue of him by Grass has been erected 
over it. 

Strasburg is famous for its Pates 
de foies gras , made of the livers of 
geese, which are enlarged. to an un¬ 
natural size by the process of shut¬ 
ting the birds up singly in coops too 
narrow to allow them to turn, and 
stuffing them twice a day with maize. 
They are generally kept in a dark 
cellar, and the winter is the season for 
fattening them, coolness being essen¬ 
tial. There is such a coop in almost 
every house in the town. Sulphur is 
steeped in the water given to the birds 
to increase their appetite. Instances 
are known of a goose’s liver which had 
attained the weight of 2 or even 3 lbs. 
Hummel, No. 9, Rue des Serruriers, is 
said to make good pates. 

The storks are as numerous here, 
in the streets, and as well protected by 
popular feeling, as in Holland. Their 
nests are encouraged on the houses and 
chimneys as the harbingers of good luck. 

The principal Promenade is the Ru- 
prechtsau , an extensive space laid out in 
walks and gardens, beyond the walls. 

Railroads — Terminus at the N.W. 
side of the city, near Porte de Saverne 
—to Paris, express in 10 hrs., other 
trains in 14—to Basle—see Handbook for 
France — Baden-Baden — Carlsruhe— 
Heidelberg — Frankfurt — to Stutt- 
gard, Munich, and Vienna — to Sarre- 
bourg — to Weissenburg, Hagenau, 
Landau and Mannheim—to Besanfon 
and Lyons. 

Omnibus from the Place Kleber to 
the Paris Ely. Stat. and Porte d’Aus- 
trelitz Ely Stat. 


ROUTE 108. 

offenburg to schaffhausen and 

CONSTANCE, BY THE KINZIGTHAL 

AND DONAUESCHINGEN. 

18^ Germ. m.=85 Eng. m. to Schaff¬ 
hausen. Thence to Constance, 5 Germ, 
m. = 24£ Eng. m. 

Rail , Offenburg to Hausach, 4 trains 
daily, in 1 hour. Villingen to Schaff¬ 
hausen, 4 trains daily, in about 4 hrs. 

Eilwdgen daily from Offenburg to 
Villingen in hrs. Railway in pro¬ 
gress. 

Offenburg—Znn, Fortuna, good (Ete. 
105) — is situated at the entrance of 
the valley of the Kinzig. This stream 
descends from the Black Forest, and 
joins the Rhine at Kehl. The scenery 
at its upper extremity is very pleasing, 
though inferior to that of the Hollen- 
thal (Ete. 109). 2m. beyond Offenburg, 
near the pretty village of Ortenberg 
Stat., the modern Gothic Castle of the 
Russian Baron Berkholz is conspicu¬ 
ous on the 1. of the road, upon an emi¬ 
nence overlooking the mouth of the 
Kinzigthal. 

The first small town of the route is 

Gengenbach Stat. ; it has 2000 
Inhab., and an old monastery, now 
secularised, with a fine ch. attached 
to it. 

Schamberg Stat. 

2 ^ Bieberach Stat. The scenery 
from Bieberach to Homberg is very 
picturesque, almost romantic. The 
road passes through Steinach Stat. 
and Hasslach Stat. ( Inn , Kreutz), on 
the 1. bank of the Kinzig, before 
reaching 

2 £ Hausach Stat. Inn , H. Schmeider, 
at the Stat. Omnibus to Hornberg 
and Villingen until the rly. is finished. 

The ruined castle anciently belonged 
to a branch of the family of Fiirsten- 
berg, who were seigneurs of the town. 
A road turning off on the 1. conducts 
to the baths of Rippoldsau. ( Hand¬ 
book of South Germany.') 

Our road, continuing to the rt., 
passes through a country which has 
quite a Swiss character. The broad- 
roofed wooden houses, the costume of 




o 32 


ROUTE 108. —VILLINGEN. DONAUESCHINGEN. 


Sect. VIII. 


the people, and, above all, the frequent 
occurrence of goitre , tend to increase 
the resemblance. 

Itj Hornberg. — Inns : Post, off the 
road, comfortable sleeping quarters; Bar 
(Bear). This little town is beautifully- 
situated under a height, crowned by 
an old donjon keep, and at the foot of 
the main chain of the Black Forest 
range. The skeleton of these moun¬ 
tains is granite ; and they attain their 
greatest elevation (4616 ft. above the 
sea) near Feldberg. 

The road hence to Triberg is the 
pleasantest and prettiest part of the 
journey: it is carried up the valley of 
the Gutach, one of the most sequestered 
and beautiful in the Black Forest, and 
through a gorge, being partly hewn 
in the rock, to 

1 ^ Triberg. Inns: Ochs; Sonne ; 
Lowe, good, near the "Waterfall. The 
village, of 800 Inhab., lies off the road 
in a very romantic situation, hemmed 
in by high precipices, from one of 
which a pretty waterfall (the finest 
in Germany) descends. Triberg is the 
centre of a manufacture peculiar to the 
Black Forest, that of wooden clocks, 
exported to the number, it is said, of 
200,000 yearly, under the name of 
Dutch clocks, not only throughout 
Europe, but even to America and 
China. The sulphur-coloured straw- 
hats worn by the peasantry are also 
made here. Beyond Triberg there is a 
very long but easy ascent. 

The Briegach, one of the head¬ 
waters of the Danube, rises within a 
short distance of 

lJj St. Georgen. (Inns: Adler; 
Hirsch.) Here is a suppressed Bene¬ 
dictine convent of great antiquity, one 
of the focuses of the civilization of the 
surrounding district. It was burnt by 
a Duke of Wiirtemberg because the 
monks refused to adopt the Reforma¬ 
tion, but was soon succeeded by ano¬ 
ther. Ruins of the old convent exist. 
An almost continuous descent leads to 

2 Villingen Stat. — Inns , Post ; 
Blume; neither good—a market town, 
4179 Inhab., surrounded by bleak 
hills. It has the" appearance of having 
been built on the site of a Roman 
encampment. It is a square crossed 


by 2 main streets at right angles, one 
passing through the centre of the 
square, the other somewhat on one side 
of it. There are 4 gates, one at each end 
of these streets. 

About 4 m. E. of "Villingen, near a 
village called Swenningen, is the Source 
of the Neckar. This is indeed a land 
of fountains and of watercourses ; and 
though the height of the mountains is 
not great, and they have no glaciers or 
perpetual snow, yet the reservoirs of 
the Black Forest feed with large sup¬ 
plies the two principal rivers of Eu¬ 
rope. The flakes of winter snow which 
descend upon some of the ridges, nay, 
even the drops of rain falling on oppo¬ 
site sides of a house, in some situations, 
are destined to end their career at the 
two opposite extremities of a continent; 
and, while part find their w r ay to the 
German Ocean, others, which reached 
the ground within a few feet of them, 
take an opposite course, and fall into 
the Black Sea. 

IT Donaueschingen Stat. — Inns: 
Schutze; Post This town is the chief 
place of the small Landgraviate of Baar, 
and contains 3053 Inhab. The principal 
building is the Palace of the mediatised 
Prince of Fiirstenberg, a plain modem 
edifice. Containing some Pictures , a 
rich collection of Engravings , and a very 
choice Library abounding in old Germ. 
MSS. 

In a comer of the garden, and be¬ 
tween the w r alls of the palace and the 
church, is a round basin filled with 
clear sparkling water, which may be 
seen bubbling up from the bottom. 
Its waters, running out of the basin, 
are conducted for about 50 yds. in a 
subterranean channel into the Brieg¬ 
ach, which from that point receives 
the name of the Danube. This little 
basin, under the castle window, goes 
by the name of the Source of the Da¬ 
nube. The real origin of that river 
seems to have been involved in a por¬ 
tion of the same mystery which con¬ 
ceals the source of the Nile. The 
claims which the basin in the court¬ 
yard has to be considered the source 
are, that the name of Danube is not 
given to the river until the waters of 
this little rill are received into it, and 



Baden. 


583 


ROUTE 108.— SCHAFFHAUSEN. CONSTANCE. 


that the two upper streams, the Bregc, 
whose fountain-head is at the solitary- 
chapel of St. Martin, about 5 m. NAY. 
of the village of Furtwangen, and 25 
m. from Donaueschingen, and the 
Briegach, rising near the convent of 
St. George, 20 m. off, in spite of the 
previous length of their course, are 
both liable to he exhausted by drought, 
until supplied by the rill from the 
castle garden of Prince Fiirstenberg. 

The whole country round Donaues¬ 
chingen may he compared to a wet 
sponge, so abundant and numerous are 
the sources of water in springs, rills, 
ponds, and marshes, all of which go to 
swell the tide of the Danube. About 
a mile out of Donaueschingen, at the 
village of Hiilfingen, the road crosses 
the Brege, which in regard to its previ¬ 
ous length may he looked on as the main 
stream of the Danube; the Briegach 
falls into it about a mile lower down. 


The Railway continues direct from 
Donaueschingen to Constance by Gei- 
singen Stat. (1^ Germ. m.). Engen 
Stat. ( 2 ), where Moreau heat the 
Austrians, in 1800, -with a loss of 7000 
men on either side, when the height of 
Hohenhdwen, an extinct volcano, once 
more vomited forth flames ; hut in spite 
of the tremendous fire of the Austrian 
artillery planted on it, it was carried 
by the French. Radolfzell (3). Con¬ 
stance ( 2 £). 


Welschingen Stat. 

Miilhausen Stat. 

Singen Junct. Stat., about half way 
between Schaffhausen W. i and Con¬ 
stance E. (Inn: Krone) a town of 
Baden, Pop. 1532, near the foot of 
Hohentwiel , crowned by a hill fort, 
ruined by the French under Vandamme. 
Near this appear 3 singular mountains, 
which from their shape may at once 
be known as extinct volcanoes; they 
are called Hohenstoffeln, Hohen- 
kriihe, and HohentwieL 

Schaffhausen (see Handbook for 


Switzerland). Inns : at the Falls— 
Schweitzer Hof, best, vo.cs. ; and Schloss 
Laufen, good. In the town—Couronne, 
good, and not expensive. 

Railway from Schaffhausen to Con¬ 
stance. 4 or 5 trains daily in 2 hrs. 
See Handbook for Switzerland. 

Between Singen and Constance the 
railway passes. 

Radolfzell Stat. (Post, good inn), a 
desolate town situated at the ex¬ 
tremity of the branch of the Lake of 
Constance called Unter See, with a 
fine ch ., in the true German Gothic 
style. In the broad part of the 
Rhine, where it is still rather a lake 
than a river, is the Isle of Reichenau , 
anciently famed for a monastery, 
founded by one of the successors of 
Charlemagne, of which the Ch. (partly 
Romanesque) and Treasury remain. In 
the Treasury are to be seen, the shrine of 
St. Fortunata, an ivory ciborium, a cope, 
a crozier, and a missal of the 10th cent. 

The Rhine here, suddenly contracted 
from a lake to a river, is crossed by an 
iron railway- and road -bridge into 

2£ Constance Stat., near the lake 
and steamers.— Inns : Brochet ( Hecht ), 
looking over the lake, attentive land¬ 
lord ;—Goldner Adler ;—Hahn, on the 
lake: all three recommended. Anglers 
may obtain from the innkeepers here 
rods, nets, punts, and all appliances for 
fishing, trolling, &c., on moderate 
terms. This is capital head-quarters for 
fishing. 

Constance, a city of 9400 Inhab., 
instead of 40,000, which it once pos¬ 
sessed, is remarkable for its antiquity, 
since its streets and many of its build¬ 
ings remain unaltered since the 15th 
cent. Although situated on the 1. or 
Swiss bank of the Rhine, it belongs 
to Baden. It is connected with the 
opposite shore by an iron bridge, and 
occupies a projecting angle of ground at 
theAY. extremity of the Bodensee, or lake 
of Constance ; its agreeable position and 
interesting historical associations make 
amends for the want of life perceptible 
within its venerable walls. It has of 
late, however, revived considerably; 
the government have formed, at a large 
expense, a port on the lake, which fa- 






584 


ROUTE 108 .— CONSTANCE. 

cilitates the navigation, while it is an 
ornament to the town. 

The *Minster is a handsome Gothic 
structure, begun 1052, rebuilt in the 
16th centy.; the tower and spire of 
open-work, added 1850-57 ; the doors 
of the main W. portal between the two 
towers are of oak, elaborately carved in 
20 compartments, with a representation 
of the Passion of our Lord, executed 
in 1470 by one Simon Bainder. The 
nave is supported by 16 pillars, each 
of a single block, 18 ft. high, and dates 
from the 13th cent.; it is flanked by 
circular arches in the Romanesque 
style, and is very wide; the aisles are 
pointed. The spot where the “Arch¬ 
heretic Huss” stood, as sentence of 
death by burning was pronounced on 
him by his unrighteous judges, is still 
pointed out as a stone in the centre of 
the nave near the pulpit. Robert Hal- 
lam, Bishop of Salisbury, who presided 
over the English deputation to the 
council, is buried here, in front of the 
high altar, under a tomb, which is very 
remarkable, as being of English brass ; 
which is fully proved by the workman¬ 
ship. It was probably sent over from 
England by his executors. He wears 
the Order of the Garter. The choir 
and its side aisles were rebuilt end of 
the 13th cent. Choir-stalls and their 
satirical carved reliefs are of the same 
age as the doors. In the X. transept 
is a representation of the death of the 
Virgin; in the S. one of the entomb¬ 
ment, figures of life size. The crypt 
is of the 10th or 11th cent. Two sides 
of the ancient” cloisters, whose arches 
are filled in with beautiful tracery, 
are yet standing. In an angle of the 
cloisters is a circular building in the 
pointed style, in the centre of which 
is a Gothic rotunda, used for Good 
Friday ceremonies, and ornamented 
with Scriptural figures. 

There are numerous relics in the 
Sacristy , as, one of the arrows which 
pierced St. Sebastian, skull of St. Con¬ 
rad enclosed in a silver figure, piece of 
the true Cross, &c.; also much fine 
Brabant lace, and a beautiful Gothic 
fireplace and piscina, superior to those 
at C our tray. In the Vestry - room 


MINSTER* COUNCIL. Sect. VIII. 

above are a range of cupboards or 
presses of carved oak, none of a later 
date than the 15th cent. There is a 
beautiful view from the tower of the 
cathedral, E. over the lake and moun¬ 
tains of Tyrol, and W. over the valley 
of the Rhine. 

The Dominican Convent , now a Turkey 
red cotton-printing establishment, is the 
place where Huss was confined, but 
all that remained of the stone chamber 
itself has been removed to the Kauf- 
haus. The church forms a pic¬ 
turesque ruin, in the early style of 
German Gothic. The chapter-house is 
even older. The cloisters are perfect. 
The little island upon which this build¬ 
ing stands was fortified by the Romans, 
and a portion of the wall, towards the 
lake, can yet be discerned. 

In the Hall of the Kaufhaus (built 
1388), looking towards the lake, the 
Great Council of Constance held some of 
its sittings, 1414-18, in a large room 
supported by wooden pillars. That fa¬ 
mous assembly, composed, not of bishops 
alone, like the ancient councils, but of 
deputies, civil and ecclesiastical, from 
the whole of Christendom, including 
princes, cardinals (30), patriarchs (4), 
archbishops (20), bishops (150), pro¬ 
fessors of universities and doctors of 
theology (200), besides a host of am¬ 
bassadors, inferior prelates, abbots, 
priors, &c., was convened for the pur¬ 
pose of remedying the abuses of the 
church; and as those abuses began with 
its head, the proceedings were prefaced 
by a declaration that a council of the 
church has received, by Divine right, 
an authority in religious matters, even 
over that of the Pope. It exerted its 
influence in curbing the Papal power, 
by deposing the infamous John XXIII. 
and Benedict XIII., and by electing in 
their place Martin V. But there is one 
act of this council which fixes lasting 
and odious celebrity on it—the trea¬ 
cherous seizure and cruel murder of 
John Huss and Jerome of Prague, in 
spite of the safe-conduct granted to the 
former by the Emperor Sigismund, the 
president of the assembly. 

The chairs occupied by the Emperor 
and Pope; the Bible of Huss; a model 




Baden. 


585 


ROUTE 109. -FREIBURG TO SCHAFFHAUSEN. 


of the dungeon, now destroyed, in 
which he was confined, of the same 
size as the original, and in which the 
actual door and other fragments have 
been incorporated; a car which is said 
to be that in which he was drawn to 
execution; the figure of Abraham which 
supported the pulpit in the Minster, 
and which the people mistook for Huss, 
and defaced accordingly; and some other 
relics of the council, still remain in the 
hall, besides a collection of Roman and 
German antiquities, dug up in the 
neighbourhood. 1 F. fr. is charged for 
admission. 

The house in which Huss lodged, 
hearing a rude likeness of him, is 
pointed out in the Paul’s Strasse, near 
the Schnetzthor. He was thrown into 
prison, soon after his arrival, in the 
Franciscan Concent , now a ruin, whence 
he was removed to a more irksome 
dungeon, affording scarcely room to 
move, in the before-mentioned Do¬ 
minican Convent. 

The field outside of the town, in the 
suburb of Briihl, in which he suffered 
martyrdom, with a fortitude which 
moved even his judges and executioners 
to admiration—nay, even the place 
where the stake was planted,—are still 
pointed out: rude images of Huss and 
Jerome, formed of clay taken from 
the spot, are offered for sale to the 
stranger. 

In 1415 a perpetual treaty of peace 
(signed at Aarberg, 24 July, 1415) 
was negotiated at Constance, between 
Sigismund of Austria and the Swiss 
Confederation, which put an end to the 
contest for the liberty of the Swiss can¬ 
tons, which began with the fight of 
Morgarten (15 Nov. 1315), and was 
decided by that of Sempach (9 July, 
1386). Behind the Hecht inn is the 
house, distinguished by an elegant 
Gothic hay window, in which the 
Emperor Sigismund lodged. Constance 
belonged to the crown of Austria from 
1549 to 1805, when, by the treaty of 
Presburg, it was transferred to Baden. 
Since 1802 it has ceased to he a bishop¬ 
ric. The spirit of industry is reviving, 
and several manufactories of cotton, 
two of muslin, and one of silk, have 
sprung up. 


Excursions. —To Reichenau—to the 
island of Meinau , about 4 m. N. of 
Constance, well cultivated, yet with 
no want of trees, forming a nice little 
estate. The house was once a com- 
mandery of the Knights of the Teu¬ 
tonic Order. From the terrace of the 
garden there is a magnificent view 
over the lake, of the mountains of the 
Vorarlberg and Appenzell, among which 
the Sentis is pre-eminent. Meinau is 
approached by a wooden foot-bridge j 
m. long, connecting it with the shore ; 
there is an inn on the island. 

By Steamer to Ueberlingen , where is 
a fine Ch., also caves in the rocks, used 
as a refuge from the Huns. 

Railways —to Zurich from Romans- 
horn—to Schaffhausen in 2 hrs. 

Diligences to Donaueschingcn, in 8 
hours, and to Freiburg. 

Steamers daily between Constance 
and the different ports of the lake. 
They correspond with the trains to 
Coire at Rorschach, with the Rail¬ 
way for Stuttgart at Friedrichshafen, 
and with that to Augsburg and Munich 
at Lindau — thus maintaining a daily 
communication between Constance and 
these cities. 

The Lake of Constance is described 
in the Handbook for Switzerland. 


ROUTE 109. 

FREIBURG IN BREISGAU TO SCHAFF¬ 
HAUSEN, BY THE HOLLENTHAL. 

11£ Germ. m. = 51 Eng. m. Eilwd- 
gen in 12^ hrs. Omnibus from Frei¬ 
burg to the Stem Inn daily in 2 hrs., 
returning in the afternoon. The stages 
are so hilly that at least 12 hrs. are 
occupied on the road travelling post, ex¬ 
clusive of stoppages. 

The valley of the Dreisam, up which 
the road is carried, is at its commence¬ 
ment near Freiburg a level and fertile 

2 c 3 







586 


ROUTE 109. —FREIBURG TO SCHAFFHAUSEN. Sect. VIII. 


plain of considerable width, bounded 
by gently sloping wooded hills. In the 
neighbourhood of 

1^ Burg, it begins to ascend, and in 
this part is styled Himmelreich (Hea¬ 
ven), in reference to its elevation, and 
in contrast to the frowning gorge which 
succeeds, commonly known as the Holle 
(Valley of Hell), which about 9 m. from 
Freiburg assumes a character of ro¬ 
mantic beauty and grandeur. Its charm 
lies in the rich foliage of the woods 
covering its steep sides, out of which 
project buttresses and pinnacles of bare 
rock, at the foot of which runs the 
Dreisam, bordered with turf and studded 
with frequent water-mills. Even here, 
its scenery, though wild, exhibits none 
of those horrors which its name would 
seem to imply. The narrow pass extends 
little more than a mile. Perhaps the 
most remarkable spot is that called the 
Hirschsprung. 

Through this valley Moreau executed 
his famous retreat of the Black Forest, 
with an army, in 1796, and gained by it 
as high a reputation for military talent 
as he would have acquired by a victory. 
The French Marshal Villars declined 
attempting this pass in 1702, saying he 
was “not devil enough.” 

f Steig.— Inn, Post or Stem (Star) ; 
a solitary house, clean, and good fare, 
including capital trout, at a cheap rate. 
The ascent of the Feldberg , the highest 
mtn. in the Schwarzwald (4590 ft.), 
may be made from this in 3 hrs. There 
is an Inn on the summit. Immediately 
beyond the Star the road begins to 
ascend a steep slope, which carries 
it -out of the Hollenthal, leaving be¬ 
hind the finest scenery. 1 fl. 12 kr. is 
paid for an extra horse up the Hollen- 
steig. At the top the road divides into 
2 branches; that on the 1. goes to 
Donaueschingen: we continue to follow 
the shortest and most direct. A small 
lake, called Titisee ( Inn , Rossle), is 
passed on the rt., and another equally 
steep hill succeeds, which must be sur¬ 
mounted before reaching 

If Lenzkirch.— Inns: Post, best; 
Cheval Blanc, good. Here many wooden 
clocks, for which the Black Forest is 
famed, are made: one may be bought 
for 4 fl. Vorspann going to Steig. 


[There is a good road through grand 
scenery from Lenzkirch to Albbriick or 
Waldshut Stats, on the rly. from Basle 
to Schaffhausen, by the Lake of Schluch 
(7 m.), to 

7 m. St. Blasien (Hotel Weisshaar, 
best sleeping place). The magnificent 
Benedictine Abbey of St. Blaize, now 
sequestrated, is turned into a factory, 
where spinning-jennies and fire-arms 
are made. The Church, built by Ixnard 
1768-80, is a rotunda of somewhat 
larger dimensions than the Pantheon at 
Rome, with a portico of granite pillars. 

On the dissolution of the monastery 
the monks removed into Carinthia, 
taking with them the bones of some 
ancestors of the house of Habsburg, 
who had been buried here. 

2 hrs.’walk is Menzenschwand, birth¬ 
place of the painters "Winterhalter. 
(Inn.) Fine panorama from the Hill 
of Ilochenschwand. 

5^ m. below St. Blasien, at Immen- 
eich (small Inn), begins the grand 
new road, the Albstrasse , through wild, 
rocky scenery, penetrating the cliffs in 
5 or 6 tunnels, carried above the rush¬ 
ing Alb. At length the road emerges 
on the valley of the Rhine at 

9 m. Albbriick Stat. (See Handbook 
of Switzerland .)] 

2 Bondorf. Inn: Poste, homely, but 
clean. This village was burnt down in 
1827. Vorspann going to Lenzkirch. 

At the summit of the ascent which 
the road makes in this stage the Lake 
of Constance may be descried in clear 
weather. Near the end of this stage is 
the castle of Hohenlupfen , belonging 
to Prince Furstenberg, but inhabited 
only by a peasant. It occupies a most 
commanding position on the brow of a 
hill, at whose foot lies 

2 Stuhlingen. — Inns: Post and 
Hirsch. Vorspann going to Bondorf. 

A little further on, the Wutach, a small 
stream, is crossed, which forms the 
boundary of Switzerland. 

2^ Schaff hausen. — Inns : in town, 
Couronne; Schweitzerhof at the Falls, 

2 m. from town, far the best. (In the 
Handbook for Switzerland.) 

The l.-hand road, leading out of the if 
Hollenthal, conducts from Steig to 





Baden. 


ROUTE 110. —HEIDELBERG TO WURZBURG. 


587 


1 post—Neustadt (Inn, Post; good), 
a town of 1500 Inhab., on the Wutach. 
Here and in the neighbourhood are 
manufactured numbers of the wooden 
clocks for which the Black Forest is 
famous. The inhabitants, an indus¬ 
trious race, employ themselves also in 
polishing garnets and crystals, as well 
as in rearing singing birds. A very 
excellent cheese, sold as Swiss, is pro¬ 
duced in this district. 

If post—Loppingen;—thence by 
If Donaueschingen Stat. (Rte. 108) 
to Schaffhausen. 


ROUTE 110. 

HEIDELBERG TO WURZBURG, BY 
MOSBACH. RAIL. 

2If Germ. m. = 90 Eng. m. 

Railway—5 trains daily in 5 hrs. 

There is nothing of particular inte¬ 
rest on the way except the scenery 
within a few stages of Heidelberg, along 
the Neckar. The Ely. passes under 
the Castle in a tunnel, and soon pene¬ 
trates into the mountains. 

Bammenthal Stat. 


Neckar-Gemiind Stat. 

Mekesheim Stat. 

Heidenstein Stat. 

Helmstadt Stat. 

Aglasterhausen Stat. 

Asbach Stat. 

Neckar Elz Stat. The Neckar is 
crossed. (Inn, Alte Poste.) 

Mosbach Stat. (several Inns, which 
appear respectable), the most consider¬ 
able town on the road, prettily situated 
on a tributary of the Neckar. Here is 
a fine large church. 

2 Ober-Schefflenz Stat.— Inn, Post; 
bad. 

Eicholzheim Stat. 

Seckach Stat. 

Eubigheim Stat. 

Wolehingen Boxberg Stat. 

Konigshofen Stat. 

Lauda Stat. 

Gerlachsheim Stat. 

Wittighausen Stat. 

Reichenberg Stat. 

Heidingsfeld Junct. Stat. 

The Rly. from Ambach joins here. 
The River Main is crossed. 

“The Bavarian frontier (§ 76) is 
is crossed within about 6 m. of'Wurz¬ 
burg. A fine view is obtained of the 
town in approaching it. It bears some 
resemblance to Prague, though very 
inferior.”— Pr. F. 

4 Wurzburg Terminus (Inns: Rus- 
sischer Hof; Franckischer Hof), in 
Handbook for South Germany (Rte< 
167). 












( 589 ) 


INDEX. 


*** 1° order to facilitate reference to the Routes, most of them are inserted in the Index 

twice; thus the road from Hamburg -to Berlin is also mentioned under the head Berlin 

* to Hamburg. Such reversed Routes are marked in the Index with an asterisk (*) to dis¬ 
tinguish them. 


AA. 

Aa, river, 87 
Aachen, 242 
Aart, 236 | v' 

Abcoude, 70 
Achern, 567 
Achim, 407 
Adalbert, St., 435 
Adenau, 305 

Adersbach, rock labyrinth of, 
445 

Adseux, 189 
Aeltre, 129 
Aerschot, 194 
Agimont, 205 I 
Aglasterhausen, 587 
Agriculture in Holland, 21 
Ahlefeld, 404 
Ahr, river, mouth of, 273 

-excursion up the valley, 

303 

Alirweiler, 304 
Ahrbleichart wines, 304 
Aigremont, chateau d’, 118 
Aisiq, 108 

Aix-la-Chafelle, 242. Con¬ 
gresses of, 242. Hotel de 
Ville, 242. Plan, 243. Ca¬ 
thedral, 244. Theatre, 245. 
Mineral springs and baths, 
246. Kurhaus, 246. Boule¬ 
vard, 246. 

-to Cologne, 242. 

— - to Diisseldorf, 260 

- * to Antwerp, by Maes- 

tricht and Louvain, 194 

-* to Liege, byjVerviers, 185 

-to Treves, 323 

Aken, 373 
Alb, river, 586 
Albbriiek, 586 
Albendorf, 450 
Alberts Bahn, 495 
Aldekerk, 249 
Alexisbad, 416, 417 
Alf, 309, 319 
Alfeld, 406 
Aiken,193, 322 
Alkmaar , 66 
Aller, river, 406 
Allerheiligen, 567, 578 
Alost, 122 
Alsheim, 541 
Alsenz valley, 536 


ANS. 

Alster, river, 332 
Alt-Benatek, 447 
Alt-Breisach, 570 
Alt-Bunzlau, 447 
Alt-Damm, 422 
Altena, 329, 386 
Altenahr, 305 
Altenbeken, 390 
Altenberg on the Lahn, 528 
Altenberg, abbey of, 259 
Altenburg in Saxony, 499 
Altenkirchen, 329, 425 
Altenstein, 502 
Altfelde, 430 
Altona, 332 
Alzey, 539 
Amay, 177 

Amber fishery on the Baltic,432 
Ambleve, valley, 189 
Amerongen, 86 
Amersfoort, 74 

Amsterdam, 49-60. Steamers, 
49. Palace, 51. Town-hall, 
Exchange, 52. Churches, 52. 
Picture Gallery, 53. Chari¬ 
table institutions, 55. Felix 
Meritis, 56. Societies, 56. 
Modes of living, 57. Har¬ 
bour and quay, 57. Her¬ 
ring fishery, 57. Dockyard, 
58. Manufactures,59. Thea¬ 
tres, 59. Railroads, 60 

-- to Broek and Saardam, 60 

-* to Texel and Helder, 64 

- to Cologne, 70 

- to Utrecht and Nijme¬ 
gen, 70 

-to Kampen, 73 

-to Groningen and Frede- 

riksoord, 75 

—— to Zwolle and Leeu- 

warden, 73, 76 
Anclam, 423 
Andennes, 176 
Andernach, 274 
Andreasburg, 416 
Angermiinde, 420 
Annaberg, 451 
Anna Pawlona, 67 
Annenthal, 456 
Annweiler,—Castle of Trifels, 
551 

Ans, 193 


ARNHEM. 

Anseremme, 204 
Antoing Castle, 111 
Antwerp, 142-155. Cathedral 
and works of Rubens, 143. 
Spire, 146. Churches—of St. 
Jacques, 147 ; St. Paul, 147 ; 
St. Andrew, 148 ; Augustins, 
148; St. Anthony, 149 ; Je¬ 
suits, 150 ; Museum of pic¬ 
tures, 148-159. Docks, 153. 
Citadel and siege, 153. Ho¬ 
tel de Ville, 154. Bourse, 
154. Railways, 155 
Antwerp, siege by the Duke of 
Parma, 120,142 

-•* to London, 118 

-* to Rotterdam by land, 86 

■-* by water 

88 

•-- to Brussels, 157 

- # to Ghent, 141 

-’to Turnhout, 156 

-to Aix-la-Chapelle by 

Maestricht, 194 
Apolda, 460 
Apollinarisberg, 272 
Appeldoorn, 80 
Appenweier, 567 
Arbergen, 404 

Ardenne, seat of King Leopold, 
205 

Ardennes, the country of, 102 ; 
forest of, 204 

-Tour of the, 102 

Ardres, 106 
Argenfels, 273 
Argenteau, 185 
Arkona in Riigen, 427 
Arlon, 201 

Arminius, 375, 389; colossal 
statue of, 393 
Ameeke, 115 
Arnswalde, 434 
Armouries : 

-Berlin, 359 

-Dresden, 478 

-Erbach, 556 

-Wartburg, 456 

Arnau,447 
Ameeke, 114 
Arnhem, 72 

-to Cologne, 240 

-* to Utrecht, 73 

















590 


INDEX, 


ARNHEM. 

Arnhem to Wesel, 72 

-to Zutphen, 79 

Arnsberg, 38*7 
Arnsburg, 402 ‘ 

Arnstadt, 508 
Arnstein Schloss, 530 
Arnual, 540 
Arolsen, 387 

Art, works of, in the Low- 
Countries, 98 

Artevelde, James van, 135,136 

-Philip van, 113, 134 

Asbach, 587 
Aschersleben, 374 
Assche, 121 
Assen, 76 
Assesse, 200 
Assmannshausen, 290 
Ath,111 
Audeghem, 138 
Audenaerde, 112 
Audruick, 106 
Auerbach, 557 
Auerberg castle, 557 
Auerstadt, 460 
Augustwalde, 434 
Aumenau, 529 
Aunelle, river, 205 
Auvelais, 199 
Avenaye, 205 
Aye, 200 

B. 

Baal, 260 
Baarn, 74 
Babelsberg, 368 
Baberhausen, 535 
Bacharach, 289 
Bacon, Lord, on Travel, ix 
Baden, duchy of, 558, 566 
Baden-Baden, 571. Inns,571. 
Beauties of situation, 571. 
Hot springs, 572. Con- 
versationshaus, 573. New 
Schloss and its dungeons, 
573. Secret Tribunal, 574. 
Church, 574. Convent, 575. 
Physicians, 575. Excursions 
around : Alte Schloss, 575. 
Ebersteinburg, Lichtenthal, 
f Murgthal, 576. Gernsbach, 
578* 

—- to Wildbad, 577 

-* to Carlsruhe, 571 

-to Strasburg, 577 

Badenweiler, 570 
Baggage, 93 
Baiseux, 108 
Baisy, 174 
Balduinstein, 530 
Balesfeld, 324 
Ballenstadt,4l7 
Bamberg, 505 
Bammenthal, 587 
Banteln, 406 
Bardewieck, 342 
Barmen, 386 

Barneveld, execution of, 31 
Barv Maulde, 111 
Bas Oha, 177 
Basilly, 111 


BERLIN. 

Bastei, The, 493 

Baths : Aix-la-Chapelle, 246 

-Alexisbad,416 

-Baden-Baden, 571 

-Badenweiler, 571 

-Bertrich, 309 

-Briickenau, 455 

- - Cudowa, 450 

-Dobberan, 341 

-Driburg, 390 

-Ems, 511 

— Hofgeismar, 391 

-Homburg, 532 

——• Landeck, 449 
—— Liebenstein, 502 

-Liebwerda, 441 

-Oeynhausen, 377 

-Putbus, 424 

-Pyrmout, 403 

-- Reinerz, 454 

-Salzbrunn, 447 

—— Schandau, 494 

-Scheveningen, 36 

-Schlangenbad, 517 

-Schwalbach, 515 

-Swinemiinde, 421 

-Warmbruun, 443 

-Wilhelmsbad, 454 

Baumanns and Biels-Hohle,415 

Bautzen, 439. Battle, 440 

Bavarian (?) broom girls, 396 

Bavay, 198 

Bayard, Roche d, 204 

Beaufort, castle, 177 

Bebra, 455, 501 

Beckum, 376 

Beds, 215 

Beellsloo, 90 

Beemsterin N. Holland, 67 
Beilstein, 320 
Beirvelde, 140 
Belgard, 422 

Belgium, 91. Introductory in¬ 
formation, 92-103. Pass¬ 
ports, 92. Money, 92. Travel¬ 
ling, 93. Railroads, 93. Vigi¬ 
lantes, 94. Inns, 94. General 
view of, 94. Cities of, and ar¬ 
chitecture, 96. |Chimes and 
clocks, 97. Works of art, 98, 
Tour of the Meuse, 102 
Belle Alliance, la, 169 
Belceil, 110 
Bendorf, 276 
Benrath, 239, 375 
Bensheim, 557 
Berchem, 157 

Berg, ancient duchy of, 384 
Berge-BorbeCk, 375 
Bergedorf, 344 
Bergen-op-Zoom, 89 

-to Maestricht, 90 

Bergen, 426 
Bergstrasse , 556-560 
Bergues, 115, 116 
Bergwitz, 371 

Berlin, 345. Inns,345. Post- 
office, 345 ; droschkies, 346. 
Time-table of sights, 346. 
Society in, 347. Unter den 


BIERVLIET. 

Linden, 347. Brandenburg 
gate, 347. Monuments, 
347. Churches, 349. Jews’ 
Synagogue, 349. Schloss- 
briicke, 349. Royal Palace, 
349. Prince Fred. William’s 
palace, 350. Museum, 350 ; 
vases and bronzes, 351. Sculp¬ 
tures, 352. Pictures, 352-354. 
New Museum, 355. Egyp¬ 
tian Museum, 355. Kuust 
cabinet, 356. Royal Library, 

358. University, 358. Mu¬ 
seum of natural history, 358. 
Arsenal, 359. Iron-foundry, 

359. The Gewerbe Schule, 

360. Theatres, 360. Music, 
Sing-Academic, 361. Winter 
gardens, 361. Restaurateurs, 

361. Confectioners, 361. Best 
shops, 362. Environs, 362. 
Tegel, 362. Botanic garden, 

362. Kreutzberg, 362. Ch.- 
yards, 362. Bellevue, 363. 
Park, 363. Reviews, 364. 

Berlin* to Hamburg, 344 
- to Magdeburg by Pots¬ 
dam, 364 

-to Leipzig, 369 

-to Dresden, 374 

-* to Diisseldorf, by Hesse 

Cassel and Elberfeld, 385 

-* to Hanover, 375 

-* to Cologne, by Minden, 

Hanover, Brunswick, and 
Magdeburg, 375 

-to Stettin and Swinemiin- 

de, 420 

-to Danzig or Posen, 426 j 

to Konigsberg, 429 

- to Bromberg, 434 

-to Frankfiirt-on-the-Oder 

and Breslau, 436 

- to the Riesengebirge, 

Hirschberg, and Warm- 
brunn,441 
Bernau, 420 
Bernburg, 372 
Berncastel, 318, 329 
Bertrange, 202 
Bertrich baths, 309 
Berzde, 199 
Best, 90 
Bettingen, 202 
Betuwe, 86 
Betzdorf, 329 
Bevensen, 242 
Beveren, 140 
Beverloo, 194 
Beverst, 194 
Beverungen,401 
Beverwijk, 65 
Bexbacli, 540 
Bialoslime, 427 
Biebricli, 299, 523 
Bieberacli, 581 
Bielefeld, 376 
Bienenbiittel, 343 
Bierset, castle, 193 
Biervliet, 119 














INDEX, 


591 


* BIESBOSCH. 
Biesbosch, 83 

Bingen, 294. St. Roch’s Cha¬ 
pel, 294 

-excursions from, 294 

--to Mavence, by Ingel- 

lieim, 533 

■ -to Mayence up the Rhine, 

295 

■ -to Kreuznach and Saar- 

briick, 575 

-to Treves, 328 

-* to Coblenz, 294 

Binger Loch, 292 
Bingerbriick, 293, 537. 
Birkenfeld, 537 
Bischofsheim, 534, 535 
Bischofsstein, castle, 322 
Bischofswerda, 439 
Bisseghem, 116 
Bistritz, 450 
Bitburg, 325 
Bitterfeld, 371 

Bi^ack Forest at Baden, 575 

-the Kinzig, 582 

-sources of the Danube in, 

582 

Blaize, St., abbey of, 587 
Blanc Misseron, 198 
Blandain, 108 
Blankenau,401 
Blankenburg (Belgium), 130 

-(Prussia), 415 

- (Saxony), 506 

Blankenese, 332 
Blasewitz, 487 
Blasien, St., 586 
Blauen Mt., 571 
Bleichart wine, meaning of, 
304 

Bloed-Panne, 116 
Bloemendaal, 46, 130 
Blucher, 337, 341, 437, 439. 

His grave, 446 
Blumberg, 584 
Bockenheim, 395 
Bode,415 
Bodenbach, 495 
Bodenfelde, 400 
Bodenwerder, 402 
Bofzen, 401 
Boischot, 194 
Bois-le-Duc, 88 
Boitsfort, 200 
Boitzenburg, 344 
Bommel, 84, 85 
Bonames, 395, 535 
Bondorf, 586 

Bonn, 265. University, 266. 
Museums, 267. Poppelsdorf, 
267. Minster, 267. Kreuz- 
berg, 268 

-to Coblenz, 268 

-to the valley of the Ahr, 303 

-to the Eifel, and Lake of 

Laach, 306 
Boppart, 285 
Borcette, 246 
Borsdorf apples, 465 
Borsum, 391 
Bouchat, 194 


BROHL. 

Bouillon, 206 
Boulder stones, 344 
Boussu, 198 
Bouvignes, 203 
Bouwel, 156j 
Boxtel, 90 
Brachmiihlen, 384 
Brackwede, 376 
Bracquegnies, 198 
Brahlsdorf, 344 
Braine le Comte, 208 
Brandeis, 448 
Brandenburg , 368 
Brasses, engraved monumental, 
at Bruges, 126. At Gade- 
buscli, 34 4. Lubeck, 338. 
Nijmegen, 73. Schwerin, 
341. Paderborn, 390. Posen, 
435. Meissen, 467. Verden, 
407 

Braubach, 284 
Brauneberger wine, 318 
Braunfels-Solms, 529 
Braunsberg, 430 
Breda, 87 
Bredelar, 387 
Brederode, 46, 65 
Brege river, 583 
Breisach, Alt, 571 
Breisgau, 568 
Breitenfeld, 374 
Bremen, 407. Money, 407. 
Territory and commerce, 
407. Cathedral, Bleikeller, 
Rathhaus, 408. Museum, 
&c., 408 

-* to Munden, 400 

-* to Hamburg and Olden¬ 
burg, 343 
Bremerhafen, 409 
Bremm, 320 

Brest.au, 437. Churches, 438. 
University, 439. Commerce, 
wool fairs, 439 

-* to Dresden, 439 

—— to the Riesengebirge, 441 

•-to Glatz and Prague, 449 

-to Schweidnitz and Lande- 

shut, 446 

-* to Berlin, 436 

-to Cracow, 450 

—— to Vienna, 451 
Breukelen, 70 
Brieg, 451 
Briegach, 582 
Brielle, 24 
Briesen, 436 
Brilon, 387 

Brockedon’s Advice to Travel¬ 
lers, xiii, xix, xxv 
Brocken, ascent of 414. Spec¬ 
tre of the,414. Witches,414. 
View from, seldom seen, 
415 

Brodenbach, 322 
Broeh ,62 

Brohl, trass-mills of, 273 

-valley of, 273, 306 

-to the Lake of Laach, 

Mayen, and Lutzerath, 306 


BUHL. 

Bromberg, 427 

-to Danzig and Berlin, 427 

Bromserburg, 295 
Bromserhof, 295 
Broom girls, 396 
Bruchmiihlbach, 539 
Bruchsal, 564 

Briickenberg (Norwegian Ch.), 
443 

Bruckman, 455 
Brudeldreis, 327 
Bruges, 124. Churches, 125. 
Paintings of Memling at, 
126, 127, 128. Hotel de 
Ville, 127. .Palais de Jus¬ 
tice, 128. Academy, 128. 
Les Halles, 129 

-* to Calais, 117 

-- to Courtrai, 140 

-to Ghent, 130 

Bruhl, 265 

Brumagne, chateau, 176 
Brummen, 79 
Brunnen of Nassau, 511-523 
Brunsberg, 400 

Brunswick, 380. Palace, 380. 
Museum, 380. Albert Dii- 
rer’s St. John in the Wil¬ 
derness, 380. Cathedral, 381. 
Black Brunswickers, 382. 

-to Berlin, by Magdeburg, 

375. 

Brussels, 159-167. Park, 160. 
King’s Palace, 160. Palace 
of the Duke of Brabant, 160. 
Chambers, 161. Museums, 
161, 162. Library, 162. 

Hotel de Ville, 162. Brood-* 
huis, 163. Cathedral of St. 
Gudule, 163. Notre Dame 
de la Chapelle, 164. Prison 
des Petits Carmes, 164. Eng¬ 
lish church, theatre, 165. 
Post-office, 166. Railroads, 
166. Carriages, 166. Shops, 
166. Lace, 166. Promenades 
and environs, 167. Excursion 
to Waterloo, 167 ; to Tervue- 
ren, 167 

-* to Calais, by Lille, 103 

-*to Lille, 112 

-* to Courtrai, 113 

-— *to Malines and Ant¬ 

werp, by railroad, 157 
- to Liege, Waterloo, Na¬ 
mur, &c., 167 

-to Liege, by Louvain, 190 

—— to Luxemburg, by Namur, 
200 

-to Paris, by Mons, 207 

-to Paris, by Ottignies, &c., 

209. 

Brustem, battle of, 193 
‘ Bubbles of the Brunnen,’ 516 
Biichen, 337, 344 
Biichenbeuern, 328 
Biickeburg, 377 
Budenheim, 534 
Biiderich, 237 
Buhl, 567 













592 


INDEX 


BUIKSLOOT. 

Buiksloot, 61 
Buillon, 206 
Bair, 249 
Buissiere, la, 210 
Buke, 390. River, 390 
Bunda, 90 
Bunzlau, 437 

-- to Hirscliberg, Warm- 

brunn, and Landeshut, 441 
Burbard, Tour de, 110 
Burg, 369, 586 
Burgdorf, 343 
Biirgeln castle, 570 
Burial-grounds, German, 230 
Burresheim, 307 
Bursfelde, 400 
Burtscheid, 247 
Butgenbacli, 324 
Buttlar, 455 
Butzbach, 396 
Buysingen, 112 

c. 

Cadsand, 118 
Calais , 104 

-to Brussels, by Lille, 104 

-to Courtrai, by Dunkirk 

and Ypres, 113 
—— to Bruges, 117 

-to Cologne, 197 

Calcar, 241 
Calkum, 239, 375 
Camperdown, 66 
Campthout, 88 
Canals in Holland, 12 
Canal, Great, of North Hol¬ 
land, 61 

Capelle-aux-Bois, 140 
Capellen, 88, 283 
Carden, 320 
Carlsbad, 501 
Carlshafen, 400 
Carlsruhe, 564. Its origin, 
palace, 564. Bleitliurm, 565. 
Theatre, other buildings, 565 

-to Baden, 571 

*-to Strasburg, 577 

-to B&le, 564 

- * to Heidelberg, 564 

Carolinenhorst, 422 
Carriage travelling, xxi 
Carvin, 197 
Cassel in France, 114 
Cassel, Hesse, 397. Palace, 

397. Museum, 398. Pictures, 

398. Marble bath, 399. Wil- 
helmshohe, 399 

-to Berlin, 385 

-to Hanover, 404 

--to Gottingen and the 

Harz, 404 

- # to Diisseldorf, 385 

-* to Frankfurt, 395 

- to Coburg, by Eisenach 

and Meiningen, 501 
Casselburg, 326 
Castel on the Rhine, 299, 536 
Castles on the Rhine, 290 
Castricum, 66 


COLOGNE. 

Catenes, 322 
Caub, 288 

Caxton, William, 129, 251 
Celle, 343 
Celles, 205 
Cerfontaine, 199 
Charity, Society of, 76 
Charlemagne’s grave, 244 
Charlemont, 204 
Charleroi, 198 

-to Virieux and Givet, 199 

Charles V., 137 
Charlottenburg, 363 
Chatelineau. 199 
Chaudfontaine, 186 
Chemnitz, 498 
Chenee, 186 
Chimes, or carillons, 97 
Chokier, 178 

Churches, English, abroad,— 
Rotterdam, 26. Amsterdam, 
52. Ghent, 138. Brussels, 
165. Hamburg, 335. Wies¬ 
baden, 522. Homburg, 532. 
Heidelberg, 560. Baden, 575, 
Ciney, 200. 

Circular notes, xv 
Clausthal,±\\, School of Mines, 
411. Mint, 411. Reservoirs, 
smelting-houses, 412 
Clervaux, 210 
Cleves, 241 

Clothes for travelling, xxiii 
Clotten, 320 
Clubs, 230 
Cobern, 322 

Coblenz, 277-282. Fortifica¬ 
tions of, 278. Good head¬ 
quarters for travellers on the 
Rhine, 281. Church of St. 
Castor, and fountain, 279. 
Courts of justice, 280. Plea¬ 
sant excursions from, 281 

-to Mayence, up the Rhine, 

283 

-to Miinster-Maifeld and 

Elz, 308 

-to Treves, by post-road, 

308 

-, * up the Mo¬ 
selle, 317 

-to Frankfurt, by the 

Brunnen of Nassau, 511 
Coburg —described, 503 

-*to Eisenach, 501 

-*to Gotha and Gottingen, 

504 

-* to Leipzig by Rudol- 

stadt, 505 
Cochem, 320 
Coeslin, 422 

Coins, tables of foreign, xxxvi 
—xxxix 

Colmerberg, 211 
Cologne, 249. Historical as¬ 
sociations, 250. Decline and 
revival, 251. Cathedral, 
252. Shrine of the three 
kings, 253. Dom-bild, 254. 
Archbishop’s Museum, 254. 


CUXIIAVEN. 

Church of St. Cunibert, 

254. St. Ursula and 11,000 
Virgins, 254. Jesuits, 254. 
St. Gereon, 255. Apostles, 

255. Church of St. Peter, 
and Rubens’ Crucifixion, 

256. Santa Maria, 256. 
Other churches and build¬ 
ings, 257, 258. Museum of 
pictures, 257. Eau de Co¬ 
logne, 258 

Cologne * to Amsterdam, 70 

-to Frankfurt, by Siegburg 

and Giessen, 329 

-to Altenberg Abbey, 259 

-* to Aix la-Chapelle, 242 

--to Bonn and Coblenz, up 

the Rhine, 260 

-- * to Diisseldorf, 236 

-to Berlin, by Elberfeld, 

385 

-to Berlin, by Minden, 375 

-to Brunswick, 389 

-to Hanover, 375 

-* to Nijmegen or Arn¬ 
hem, 237, 240 
Comines, 116 
Commissionaire, xxv 
Constance — described, 583. 
Minster, 583 

- council of, 584 

- # to Schaffhausen, 585 

Contich, 154, 156 
Continent, landing on the, xxv 
Conz, 203 
Coo, 188 

Copernicus at Frauenburg, 430; 

his birthplace, 427 
Corbetha, 461 
Corneli-Miinster, 323 
Corphalie, 177 
Correggio’s “ Notte,” 474 
Cortenbosch, 193 
Corvey, 401 ^ 

Coslin, 422 
Coster, printer, 44 
Coswig, 372 
Cbthen, 371 
Couriers, xix 
Court St. Etienne, 209 
Courtrai, 112 

-to Brussels, 113 

-to Calais, 114 

Cracow, 451, and S. Germ. 
Handbook 

Cranach, L., his grave, 461 
Crefeld, 240 
Creil, 210 
Creutznach, 540 
Crevecceur, 203 
j Cudowa, 450 
Cuesmes, 204 
Culm, 427 
Cus, 318 

Custom-houses abroad, xxv; 
in England, xxvi 

-German, 216 

-of Prussia, 232 

Ciistrin, 426 
Cuxhaven, 332 



























INDEX 


593 


DAblZEELE. 

D. 

Dadizeele, 116 
Dahn,554 
Damme, 130 
Dammgarten, 342 
Danholm, 423 
Dannecker’s Ariadne, 528 
Dante, 130 

Danube , source of the, 582 
Danzig, 427. Granaries, ca¬ 
thedral, 427. Picture by J. 
Memling, 427. Artus Hof- 
fortifications, 428. Lang- 
gasse, 428. Duke of, 428 
Danzig to Marienburg and Ko- 
nigsberg, 429 

- * to Berlin, 420, 426 

-* to Stettin, by Brom¬ 
berg, 434 

Darmstadt, 553. Catholic 
church, palace, pictures, 
553. Fossils, 554. Theatre, 
Exercier Haus, 554. Gar¬ 
dens, Casino, wild boars, 
554 

-to the Odenvvald, 552 

-to Heidelberg and Carls- 

ruhe, 552 

-* to Frankfurt, 552 

Daun,327 
Dedemsvart, 76 
Deidesheim, 552 
Delft, 28 
Delfzijl, 78 
Delitsch, 371 
Delmonhorst, 343 
Demker, 371. 

Dernier, river, 122, 139 
Denderleeuvv, 114, 122 
Dendermonde or Termonde, 
139 

Denis, St., Bovesse, 200 
Dennewitz, 369 
Denzlingen, 568 
Dessau, 372 
Detmold, 395 

Deutz, 259. Good inn, 249, 
259 

Deux Ponts, 539 
Deventer, 79 
Deynze, 113 
Dhorn, 248 
Diebelich, 323 
Diefenbach, 194 
Diekirch, 211 
Diemel, river, 390 
Diemer, river, 194 
Dieren, 79 
Diest, 194 
Dietkirchen, 531 
Diez, 529 
Dill, valley, 329 
Dillenburg, 329 
Dillingen, 538 
Dinant, 203 

-- to Givet/203 

- to Hans-sur-Lesse and 

Bouillon, 205 
Dingelstadt, 504 


DRESDEN. 
Dinglingen, 568 
Dinslaken, 237 
Dirschau, 427, 429 
Dissibodenberg, 536 
Ditmarschen, 332 
Dixmude, 117 
Dobberan, 341 
Dochweiler, 327 
Dolhain, 190 
Dolitz, 434 

Dollars, Prussian, 233 ; Saxon, 
453 

Dollart, river, 78 
Dollnitz, vale, 466 
Dolme, 402 
Dommel, river, 90 
Dommeldange, 211 
* Donaueschingen, source of 
Danube, 582 

-* to Orenburg, 581 

-to Schaffhausen, 584 

-to Freiburg, 586 

Donnersberg, 539 
Dort, or Dordrecht, 83 

-Synod of, 83 

Dortmund, 375 
Dossenhein, 565 
Douai, 197 

Dover toCalaisandBrussels,104 

-to Ostend, 123 

Drachenfels, 270 
Drakenburg, 404 
Dransfeld, 405 
Dreisam valley, 586 
Dreiser-Weiher, 327 
Dreschenich, 322 
Dresden, 468. Post-office, 
468. Elbe bridges, 469. 
Churches and church music, 
470. Terrace of Briihl, 470. 
Palace, 470. Collections— 
mode of obtaining admission, 
468, 469. Green Vault, 470. 
Picture gallery, 473. Plaster 
casts, 477. Print Room, 478. 
Zwinger, 478. Armoury, 
478. Museum of natural 
history, 482. Japanese pa¬ 
lace, 482. Antiquities, 482. 
Porcelain, 483. Library, 
484. Theatre, 485. Shops, 
cafes, gardens, 485. Envi¬ 
rons, 486. Moreau’s monu¬ 
ment, 486. Dance of Death, 

486. Baths of Link, 487. 
Schiller’s summer-house, 

487. Weber’s house, 487. 
- to the Saxon Switzer¬ 
land, 488 

-*to Berlin, 374 

-to Breslau, 439 

-* to Leipzig and Frank¬ 
furt, 454, 466 

-to the Bast.ei, 489 

-to Schandau, 489 

- to Hof, 495 

-to Plauensclie Grund and 

Tharand, 495 

- to Zittau and Reichen- 

berg, 448 


EILSEN. 

Driburg, 390 
Driebergen, 72 
Driesen, 426 
Duffel, 157 
Duisburg, 237, 375 
Duiven, 236 
Dulfsen, 76 
Dumpelfeld, 305 
Dunes of Holland, 15 

-battle of the, 116 

Duns Scotus, tomb, 257 
Dunkirk, 114 

-to Bruges, 117 

Diiren, 248 
Diirkheim, 550 
Durlach, 564 
Durrenberg, 463 
Dusemond, 318 

Dusseldorf, 238. School of 
painting, 238 

-to Berlin, by Elberfeld, 

385 

-to Cologne, 240 

-* to Arnhem, 236 

-to Osnabriick, by Munster, 

391 

-*to Rotterdam, 240 

-to Bremen, 406 

Dusselthal, 239 

Dutch manners, peculiarities 
of, 18 

Dutch clocks, 582,587 
Dutch school of art, 17 
Duttweiler, 537 
Dykes of Holland, 9 * 

Dyle, river, 157, 190 


E. 

Eberbach, 297,518. Cellars of, 
298 

Eberstadt, 554 
Ebersteinburg, 577 
Ebernburg, Sickingen’s Castle, 
536 

Ecclou, 130 
Eclite, 90 

Echternach, 211. Abbey, 211 
Eck, 86 

Eckhardsberge, 460 
Edenkoben, 551 
Ediger, 320 
Eekeren, 88 
Efringen, 571 
Eger, valley, 507 
Egmont, ruins of, 66 
Ehrenbreitstein, 280 
Ehrenberg, 322 
Ehrfenfels, 292 
Ehrenthal, 286 
Eibenstock, 501 
Eichelskamp, 238 
Eicholzheim, 587 
Eichsfeld, 504 
Eifel, the Upper, 326 
-the Lower, 306. Inhabit¬ 
ants of, 324 

-excursions in, 306 

Eilsen, 376 

















594 


INDEX, 


EIMBECK. 

Eimbeck, 405 
Eindhoven, 90, 240 
Eisenach, 455. Wartburg, 455 
Eisfeld, 503 

Eisleben, Luther’s birthplace, 

388 

Eitorf, 329 

Elbe, mouth of the, 332. 
Islands formed by, 369. 
Sources of, 444. In Saxony, 
the most beautiful parts of 
its course, 488 

-from Schandau to Dres¬ 
den, 494. 

Elberfeld, 385 

-to Berlin, 385 

-to Hanover, 342 

-- *to Cologne, 389 

Elbing, 430 
Elbingerode, 415 
Elder, river, 332 
Elend,415 
Elewyt, 159 
Elgersburg, 508 
Eller, 320 
Elsfieth, 343 
Elten, 236 
Eltville, 298, 519 
Else, 406 

Elster, valley, 373. River, 
465 

Elz, vallev, 309, 321. Castle 
of, 321 
Emden, 78 
Emmendingen, 568 
Emmerich, 237 
Ems, 511 

-to Frankfurt, 511 

-river, 78, 376 

Engen, 584 
Engers, 275 

-(Westphalia), 377 

Enghien, 111 

Enghien, Duke, his treach¬ 
erous seizure, 569 
Engis, 177 

English Church on the Conti¬ 
nent, xxvii 
Enkhuisen, 69 
Enkirch, 319 
Ensival, 187 
Eppstein, 531 
Erasmus, 26 
Erbach, 297 

Erbach in the Odenwald, 556 
Erdmannsdorf, 445 
Erft, valley, 249 
Erfurt, 458 

-to Coburg, 507 

Erkelenz, 260 
Erkerath, 384 
Erkner, 436 
Erpeler Lei, 272 
Erquelines, 210 
Erzgebirge, 501 
Eschede, 343 
Eschweiler, 248 
Esemael, 193 
Esquelbecq, 115 
Essclien, 88 


FRANKFURT. 

Essen, 375 
Ettelbach, 211 
Etten, 87 

Ettenbach, river, 568 
Ettenheim, 568 
Ettlingen, 566 
Eubigheim, 587 
Extersteine, 394, 403 
Extra post, 217, 234 
Eydtkuhnen, 433 
Eyk, Van, school of, 98. 
Paintings of, at Berlin, 354. 
At Ghent, 133 
Eylau, 432 
Eysden, 185 


F. 

Facliingen, 530 
Falkenlei, 309 
Falkenstein, 531 
Farciennes, 199 
Fees of Prussian physicians, 
228 

Fehrbellin, 345 
Feignies, 204 
Feldberg, 532, 586 
Felsenmeer, 387, 556 
Fexhe, 193 

Field of the Cloth of Gold, 
106 

Fijenoord, 28, 83 
Filehne, 427 
Fischbach, 445 
Fischbeck, 402 
Flamignoul, 204 
Flemalle, 178 

Flemish school of painting 
98-102 
Fleurus, 210 
Fliessem, 325 
Floha, 498 
Flone, 177 
Floreffe, 198 
Florenville, 206 
Florsheim, 534 
Flushing, 119 
Fontenoy, 111 
Forbach, 541, 551, 577 
Forest, 112 

“ Forest of Arden,” 200 
Forst, 552 

Forum Hadriani, site of, 37 
Frameries, 209 
Franchimont, 186 
Francorchamps, 210, 325 
Franeker, 75 
Frankenstein, 449, 551 
Frankenthal, 543 
Frankfurt on the Main, 
523. Inns, Old and New 
Town, 523. Cathedral, 523. 
Rdmer, 523. Saalhof, 526. 
Stadal Museum of pictures, 

526. Senkenberg Museum, 

527. Dannecker’s statue of 
Ariadne, 528. Public library, 

528. Birthplace of Gothe 


FURSTENWALDE. 

and of the Rothschilds, 528. 
Jews, 528. Fairs, 529. Diet, 

529. Theatre, 529. Casino, 

529. Shops, 529. Public 
gardens, 529. Cemeteries, 

530. Excursions, 530 
- to Leipzig, by Gotha 

Erfurt, Weimar, 454 

- to Cassel and Berlin 

394 

-to Cassel and Hanover 

394 

-* to Coblenz and the 

Brunnen of Nassau, 511 

-* to Mayence, 536 

- * to Homburg and the 

Taunus, 533 

-to Basle, by Darmstadt, 

Heidelberg, Carlsruhe, 552 

-to Baden-Baden and Stras- 

burg, 572, 578 
Frankfurt on the Oder , 436 

-* to Breslau, 436 

-to Hirschberg and Warm- 

brunn,441 
Frauenberg, 431 
Frauenstein, 299, 518 
Frau lautern, 538 
Frederick the Great, at Rheins- 
berg, 345. At Lissa, 438. 
At Rossbach, 463. Relics of, 
at Berlin, 356. His tomb and 
sword, 364. His palace of 
Sans Souci, 365. His death, 
365. 

Frederiksoord, pauper colony 
of, 76 

Freiberg, 496. Church, 496. 
School of Mines, 497. Mines 
and miners, 497 
Freiburg, 447 

Freiburg in Breisgau, 568. 
Beautiful Minster, 568. Uni¬ 
versity, 569 

-to Schaffhausen, by the 

Valley of Hell, 585 

-to Basle, 569 

Freivvaldau, 451 
Freyenwalde, 420 
Freyr, 204 
Friedberg, 395 
Friedland, battle, 432 

- Wallenstein’s castle, 441. 

Friedrichsfeld, 558 
Friedrichsruhe, 344 
Friedrichsstein, 275 
Friesak, 345 
Friesdorf, 268 
Friesenheim, 568 
Friesland, 75 
Fritzlar, 396 
Froissart, 136, 137 
Fronhausen, 396 
Fulda, 455. River, 455 
Fumes, 117 
Fiirstenberg, 401, 436 
Fiirstenberg, 584. Palace o 
Prince, 583 

Fiirstenstein Castle, 447 
Fiirstenwalde, 436 














INDEX 


595 


GADEBUSCir. 

G. 

Gadebusch, 344 
Galen, Bishop, 391 
Gaming-houses, German, 227 
Gandersheim, 391 
Gardens, Dutch, 15 
Garz, 424 

Geilenkirchen, 260 
Geilnau, 530 
Geisenheim, 296 
Geldern, 241 
Gelnhausen, 456 
Gelsenkirchen, 375 
Gembloux, 200 
Genappe, 174 
Gender, river, 90 
Gengenbach, 581 
Genthin, 369 
Georgen, St., 582 
Georgenborn, 518 
Gera, 461 
Gerlaehsheim, 587 
Gerolstein, 327 

Germany. — Preliminary in¬ 
formation, 213-231. Pass¬ 
ports and police regulations, 
213. Inns, 213. Tables- 
d’hute, 214. Beds, 215. Va- 
lets-de-place, 215. Custom¬ 
houses, 216. Coinage, 216. 
Distances, travelling - maps, 

217. Modes of travelling, 
posting, 217. Schnellposts, 

218. Voiturier, 219. Rail¬ 
ways, 220. Peculiarities 
of German manners, 221. 
Public gardens and taverns, 
223. Kirmes, 224. Hand- 
werksburschen, 224. Water¬ 
ing-places, 225. Music, 228. 
Clubs and reading-rooms, 
230. Burial-grounds, 230. 

German doctors’ fees, 228 
Germersheim, 549 

-to Strasburg, 551 

Gernrode, 418 
Gernsbach, 577 
Gernsheim, 541 
Gerolstein, 327 
Gerresheim, 385 
Gerstungen, 501 
Gesecke, 390 
Geule, valley, 190 
Gheel, 156 

Ghent, 113, 130-139, Belfry, 
132. Cathedral of St. Bavon, 

132. Paintings of Van Eyk, 

133. University, 134. Hotel 
de Ville, 135. Museum, 135. 
Marche au Vendredi, 135. 
The English at Ghent, 136. 
Charles V., 137. Citadel, 
137. Beguinage, 138. By- 
loque, 138. House of Cor¬ 
rection, 138 

-* to Bruges, 130 

-to Antwerp, 141 

-* to Oudenarde, 113 

-to Brussels, 122 


GRAND-HALLEN. 
Ghislain, St., 198 
Ghislenghen, 111 
Ghistelles, 117 
Giebichenstein castle, 373 
Giessen, —University, &c., 396 

-to Coblenz, 528 

-descent of the Lahn from, 

529 

Gillenfeld, 328 

Gingelom, 193 

Gitschin, 447 

Givet, 204 

Gladbach, 260 

Glatz, 449 

Gleiwitz, 451 

Glewitz, 423 

Glogau, 437 

Glowen, 345 

Gliicksbrunn, 502 

Gliickstadt, 332 

Gm unden-Maar, 328 

Gnadau, 371 

Gnadenberg, 437 

Gniesen, 435. Cathedral, 435. 

St. Adalbert, 435 
Goar, St., 286 
Goarshausen, 286 
Gobesmuhle, 211 
Goch, 240. 

Godelheim, 401 
Godesberg, 269 

-to the Seven Mountains, 

269 

— to the Ahr Valley, 303 

Godfrey de Bouillon, 206 

Godinne, 203 

Goes, 89 

Gogolin, 451 

Golheck, 371 

Goldene Aue, 388 

Goldenfels, castle, 328 

Gbllheim, 539 

Gomez, 211 „ 

Gondorf, 322 
Gorcum, 84 
Gdrlitz, 440 

Goslar, 412. Relic of Cathedral 
and altar of Krodo, 413. 
Rammelsberg, 413 
Gosselies, 198 
Gossnitz, 500 
Gotha, 456 

Gothe, the poet’s birthplace, 
526. House and collections, 
460 

Gottingen, 405. 'University, 
405. Library and Museum, 
405 

—— to the Harz, 409 

-* to Cassel, 404 

-to Gotha, 504 

Gouda, 80. Painted glass at, 80 
Gouy-lez-Pieton, 190 
Graach, 313 
Grabow, 345 
Grafenberg, 451 
Grafenhainchen, 371 
Grafenthal, 507 
Grammont, 122 
Grand-Hallen, 210 


1IAINAU. 

Graudenz, 427 ! 

Gravelines, 113 
Grebenstein, 391 
Greifenstein, 506 
Greifswald, 423 
Groenendael, 200 
Groningen, 75 

-to Leer, 78 

Groschen, 233. Neugroschen 
453 

Gross-Beeren, 368 
Grossenbaum, 375 
Gross-Gerau, 535, 556 
Gross-Gorschen, battle of, 462 
Gross-Kreutz, 367 
Gross-Oschersleben, 383 
Gross-Sachsen, 558 
Gross-Salza, 373 
Grotenberg, 394 
Grotius, escape from prison, 84 
Griinau, 465 
Grupont, 201 
Guben, 436 
Guilders, Dutch, 2 
Guillemins, 178, 185 
Guines, 106 
Guls, 323 
Guntersblum, 541 
Guntershausen, 397, 501 
Giirzenich, 247 
Giisen, 369 

Gustavus Adolphus landing in 
Germany, 422. His death at 
Liitzen, 462. On the Rhine, 
541 

Gutemberg, the inventor of 
printing, 302 
Gutenfels, 288 
Giitersloh, 376 


H. 

Haardter Schlossen, 552 
Haarlem, 43-49. Organ, 43. 
Tulips, 45, Museum, 45. 
Siege, 46. Lake of, 48 

-to Amsterdam, 47 

-to Alkmaar and the 

H elder, 64 
Hadmersleben, 383 
Haecht, 190 
Haerlebeke, 113 
Half, river, 431 
Hagelskaul, 327 
Hagen, 329, 386 
Hagenau, 552 
Hagenossen, 402 
Hagenow, 340, 344 
Hague, 30-36. Binnenhof, 
31. Picture gallery, 31. Ja¬ 
panese Museum, 34. His¬ 
torical relics, 35. Royal 
library, 35. Medals, 35. 
Private cabinets, 35. Statues, 
35., t Storks, 36. Theatre, 
36. House in the Wood, 
36. Scheveningen, 36 

-to Leiden, 37 

Hainau, 437 










596 


INDEX 


HAL. 

Hal, 112 
Halbau, 437 
Halberstadt, 419 
Halfweg, 49 

Halle, 373. University, 373. 
Orphan House, 373. Salt 
springs, 374 
Halloren, 372 
Haltingen, 571 
Hameau, 199 
Hambach, 553 

Hamburg, 332. Money, 332. 
Trade, 333. Fire of 1842, 
333. Costumes, 333. Fune¬ 
rals, 333. Buildings, 334. 
Institutions, 334. Jungfern- 
stieg, 334. Theatres, 335. 
Ramparts, 335. Cemeteries, 
335. English church, 335. 
Environs, 336 

-* to London, 331 

-to Liibeck, 337 

-to Bremen, 343 

-to Hanover, 342 

-to Stralsund, 340 

-to Dobberanand Rostock, 

340 

— to Berlin, 344 
Hameln, 402 

Hamilton, Capt., on Travel, xii 
Hamm, 376, 388 
Hammer, 452 
Hammerstein, 274 
Hanau, 454 
Handschuhsheim, 565 
Handwerksburschen, 225 
Handzaeme, 118 
Hanover, 378. Palace, 378. 
Waterloo monument, 378. 
Leibnitz’s monument, 379. 
Church, 379. Library, 379. 
Picture Gallery, 379. Herr- 
enhausen, 379 

-to Bremen, 404 

-to Brunswick, 342 

-* to Hamburg, 342 

-* to Gottingen, 404 

-* to Frankfurt, by Cassel, 

404 

-* to Berlin, 375 

-* to Cologne, by Minden, 

375 

Han-sur-Lesse, cave of, 200 
Hansbeke, 130 
Hansdorf, 436 
Hanseatic League, 339 
Harburg, 342 
Hardewijk, 74 
Harlingen, 75 
Harmelen, 81 

Harz, the, 409-419. Gene¬ 
ral account of, exaggerated 
descriptions of its scenery, 

409. Points usually visited, 

410. Plan for tour of, 410. 
Roads, 410. Mines, 411, 412 

Harzburg, 383, 412 
Harzgerode, 417 
Hasselt, 90, 194 
Hasslach, 582 


Herrmann’s. 

Haste, 378 

Hastenbeck, 401 

Hastieres, 204 

Hattem, 74 

Hattenheim, 297 

Hattersheim, 531, 534 

Hatto, Bishop, and the rats, 292 

Hatzenport, 322 

Hausach, 581 

Hautmont, 210 

Havel, river, 345, 367 

Havennes, 111 

Havre, 198 

Have Sainte, la, 170 

Hazebrouck, 113 

Hedersdorf, 328 

Helilen, 402 

Heidelberg, 558. Its mis¬ 
fortunes, 558. University 
and library, 559. Club, 
560. Churches, 560. Olym¬ 
pia Morata’s grave, 560. 
Castle, 560. Tun, 562. Gar¬ 
den, walks, 562. Hirschgasse, 
563. Kdnigstuhl, 563. Wolfs- 
brunnen, 563 

- to Carlsruhe and Baden, 

564 

- # to Schwetzingen and 

Mannheim, 549 

-* to Darmstadt and Frank¬ 
furt, 552 

-to Wiirzburg, 587 

Heidenmauer, 552 
Heidenstein, 587 
Heidingsfeld, 587 
Heiligenstadt., 388, 506 
Heimburg, 290 
Heinsen, 402 
Heinri chsburg,— 

Heisterbach, ruined abbey of, 
269 

Heitersheim, 570 

Helder, 68. Great dyke of, 68 

-to Amsterdam, 68 

Helenenberg, 325 
Heligoland, 331 
Hell, Valley of, 586 
Helldorf, 240 
Hellvoetsluis, 24 
Helme, river, 387 
Helmond, 90 
Helmstadt, 382,587 
Helsa, 387 
Hemsbach, 558 
Hennef, 329 
Heppenheim, 557 
Heppingen, 304 
Herbesthal, 190 
Herbeumont, 206 
Herbolzheim, 568 
Herent, 190 
Herenthals, 155 
Herford, 376 
Herlasgriin, 500 
Hermalle, 177 
Hermsdorf, 443 
Herne-Bochum, 375 
Herring fishery, 25, 57 
Herrmann’s Monument, 393 


HORNU. 

Herrenhausen, 378 
Herrnhut, 448 
Herrnsheim, 543. 
Herrnskretschen, 495 
Herschel, 379 
Herstal, 185 
Herstelle, 401 
Herthaburg, 425 
Hertogensbosch, 90 
Herzberg, 373 
Herzogenrath, 260 
Hetserath, 309, 329 „ 

Heteren, 86 
Heule, 113 
Heuscheuer, 450 
Hiddensoe, 426 
Hildburghausen, 503 
Hildesheim, 406 
Hillesheim, 326 
Hillegomerbeek, 43 
Hirschberg, 443 
Hirschenstand, 507 
Hocliburg, 568 
Iloche, obelisk to, 276 
Hochdahl, 385 
Hochheim vineyards, 534 
Hochkirch, battle of, 442 
Hochst, 534 
Hochstein, 492 
Hoegne, valley of, 186 
Hof, 500 
Hofgeismar, 391 
Hohenelbe, 447 
Hohen Siegburg, 239 
Hohen Sybu rg, 368 
Hohentwiel, 584 
Hohenwarte, 369 
Hohnstein, 431, 492, 516 
Holland, introductory infor¬ 
mation, 1-24. Passports, 1. 
Money, 2. Custom-house, 2. 
Railroads, posting, diligen¬ 
ces, roads, tolls, 2. Trek- 
schuiten,3. Drinking water, 
5. Inns, Cafes, 5. General 
view of, 5. Dykes, 9. Canals, 
12. Polders, turbaries, and 
peat, 12. Dunes, 15. Gar¬ 
dens and summer-houses, 15. 
Paintings, picture-galleries, 
17. Manners of the inha¬ 
bitants, 18. Music, 20. Agri¬ 
culture, 21. Herring fishery 
2d, 57. 

Holland, North, 60-70 
Hdllenthal, 568, 570 
Holm, 428 

Holzemme, river, 419 
Holzminden, 390, 401, 402 
Homberg, 238, 260 
Homburg, Hesse, 532 

-Carriage tour from, 530 

-in Rhenish Bavaria, 539 

Homme, valley, 201 
Hondsbosche, *66 
Hooghstraeten, 88 
Hoorn, 69 
Horn, 394 
Hornberg, 582 
Hornu, 198 












INDEX 


597 


HORREJI. 

Horrem, 249 

Horrem-Dormagen, 241 

Horst Sevenum, 90 

Hougoumont, 170 

House in the Wood,Hague, 36 

Houten, 190 

Hdxter, 401 

-* to Pyrmont, 400 

Hoya, 404 
Hub bad, 568 
Hubertsburg, 464 
Hubert, St., 201 
Hudibras, author of, his de¬ 
scription of Holland, 8 
Hugowaard, 67 
Huissen, 86 
Hulpe, la, 200 
Hiimme, 391 
Hundsruck, 328 
Hiinfeld, 457 
Hunte, river, 34 
Huss, John, trial and execu¬ 
tion of, 584, 585 
Huy, 177 


I. 

Idar, 539 
Iffetsheim, 549 

Igel, Roman monument at, 
316, 358 
Ihna, river, 422 
Ilbenstadt, 394 
Ilgen, St., 564 
lime, river, 404 
Ilmenau, 508 
Ilsenburg, 414 
Inde, river, 248 
Ingelheim, palace of Charle¬ 
magne, 533 
Ingelmunster, 139 
Ingramsdorf, 446 
Inns and Innkeepers, xxvi 
Insterburg, 433 

Interment, prevention of pre¬ 
mature, 230 
Irrlich, 275 
Iseghem, 140 
Iserlohn, 386 
Ixelles, 167 


J. 

Jabbeke, 124 

Jiiger, the Wild, legend of, 556 

Jahde,343 

Jambes, 203 

Jansenists, 71 

Jansenius, 192 

Jaromierz, 450 

Jemappes, 198 

Jemelle, 200 

Jemeppe, 178 

Jena, battle-field, 460, 461 ; 

university, 506 
Jerxheim, 383 
Jeumont, 210 
Jews of Amsterdam, 52 


KOLIN. 

Jews at Brussels, 163, 164 

-at Frankfurt, 528 

-at Strasburg, 580 

-at Worms, 544 

Johann-Georgenstadt, 501 

Johannisberg, 296. Wine, 296 

Josephstadt, 450 

Juliers, 260 

Julin, 422 

Jung-Bunzlau, 447 

Jupille, 185 

Jurbize, 208 

Jiiterbog, 369 


K. 

Kahla, 506 
Kaisersesch, 309 
Kaiserslautern, 539 
Kaiserswerth, 239 
Kalbe, 373 
Kalsclieuren, 265 
Kaltenherberg, 323 
Hamburg, 506 
Kamen, 376 
Kamp, 285 
Kampen, 74 
Kandrzin, 451 
Kanth, 446 
Karlsberg, 450 
Karlshafen, 401 
Kastrop, 375 

Katwijk, the Rhine at, 42, 85 
Katz, 422 

Katzbach, 437. Battle of the, 
437 

Kautenbach, 211 
Kehl, 577. Steamboat from, 
551 

Kellberg, 326 
Kelmienen, 433 
Kemnade, 402 
Kempen, 240 
Kenzingen, 568 
Kesselheim, 276 
Kevelaer, 240 
Kidrich, 298 
Kiel, 336 

Kinzig, valley of the, 582 
Kippenheim,569 
Kircheim Boland, 539 
Kirchweiler, 329 
Kirchberg, 328 
Kirmes, 223 
Kirn, 537 
Klarenthal, 519 
Klausthal, 410 
Klein-Ankerholz, 422 
Kleinen, 341 
Kleinenbroich, 260 
Klopstock’s grave, 336. Birth¬ 
place, 419 

Kloster Launitz, 506 
Ivniebis Baths, 569. 
Knielingen, 549 
Kohlfurt, 437, 441 
Kohlscheid, 260 
Kolberg, 422 
K olin, 327 


LANDEN. 

Koniggriitz, 450 
Koniqsbero, 431. Palace, Ca¬ 
thedral, 431. University, 
432. Pillau, sturgeon and 
amber fishery, 432 

-to Tilsit and Memel, 433 

-* to Danzig, 429 

Konigsborn, 376 
Konigsdorf, 249 
Konigshofen, 587 
Konigshiitte. 451 
Kbnigstein in Saxony, 489-493 
Konigstein in the Taunus, 531 

-■ to Soden,531 

Konigsstuhl, 284, 425, 564 
Kbnigs Weinberg, 487 
Konigswinter, 269 
Konigszelt, 446, 449 
Kopenik, 436 
Kork, 578 

Korner’s grave, 345 
Kosel, 451 
Kosen, 460 
Koslin, 422 
Kostritz, 461 
Kothen, 372 
Kotomiers, 427 
Krabbendijke, 89 
Kranenburg, 241 
Kreiensen, 390 
Kreutz, 426, 434 
Kreutzers, 509 
Kreuzberg, near Bonn, 268 

-in the Ahr valley, 305 

Kreuznacli, 535 

-to Worms by Alzey, 545 

Krieblowitz, grave of Bliicher 
at, 439 

Krimmitschau, 500 
Krimpen, 85 
Krippen, 493 
Kronberg, 532 
Kronweiler, 537 
Krotzingen, 570 
Kuhstall, 494 
Kuilenburg, 90 
Kunersdorf, battle of, 436 
Kuppersteg, 375 
Kyffhauser, 388 
Kyll river, 327 

Kynast, castle and legend, 443, 
444 

L. 

Laacw, Lake of, 306. Excur¬ 
sion to, 306. Abbey of, 307 
Lace manufacture, 157, 165 
Ladenburg, 558 
Laeken, 122 ; palace of, 158 
La/in, the river, mouth of, 284, 
511. Descent of, from Gies¬ 
sen to Ems, 529 
Lahnstein, 284 
Lahr, 569 
Landau, 551 
Landeck, 449 
Landeghem, 129 
Landelies, 210 
Landen, 193 












598 


INDEX 


LANDESHUT. 

Landeshut, 445, 447 
Landrecies, 210 
Landsberg, 426 

Landskrone, castle of, 304, 541 
Landstuhl, 539 
Langen, 553 
Langenau, castle, 530 
Langenbogen, 387 
Langenbriicken, 564 
Langenfeld, 375 
Langensalza, 504 
Langen-Schwalbaen ,514 
Langenweddingen, 383 
Langerwehe, 248 
Languages, value of foreign, 
to the traveller, xiv. 
Langwedel, 407 
Lanneken, 195 
La Roche, 205 
La Trappe, 156 
Lauda, 587 
Lauenburg, 344, 422 
Lauenforde, 401 
Laufzettel, 218 
Laurenburg, castle, 530 
Lausitz, Lusatia, 439 
Lautenbach, 567 
Lauter, river, 549, 552 
Lauterberg, 549 
Leau, 193 
Lede, 122 
Leer, 79 
Leeuwarden, 75 
Leforest, 197 
Lehrte, 343, 380 
Leiden, 37-42, Town Hall, 

38. Siege of, 38. University, 

39. Museum of Natural 
History, 40. Egyptian Mu¬ 
seum, 40. Library, 40. 
Japanese Museum, 40. Bo¬ 
tanical garden, 41 

Leiden to Haarlem and Am¬ 
sterdam, 42 
Leine, river, 377, 405 
Leipzig, 463. University, 463. 
Auerbach’s cellar, 464. Gar¬ 
dens, 465. Fairs, 465. Book- 
trade, 465. Battle of, 464 

-* to Berlin, 369 

— to Dresden, 466 

-•* to Frankfurt, 454 

- to Hof, by railway to 

Altenburg, 499 

-to Carlsbad, 501 

-to Coburg, 505 

Lek, 83, 84, 236 ; from Rotter¬ 
dam to Arnhem, 85 
Lekker Kerk, 85 
Lemgo, 395 
Lenne, river, 386 
Lenzkirch, 586 
Leopoldshafen, 549 
Leopoldshohe, 572 
Lesse, river, 205 
Lessines, 122 
Letmathe Cave, 386 
Leuze, 111 
Lewin, 450 
Ley, 323 


LONDON. 

Lichtaert, 156 
Lichtenfels, 504, 505 
Lichtenstein, 498 
Lichtenthal, 577 
Lichtervelde, 117, 140 
Liebenau, 404 
Liebeneck, 285 
Liebenstein, 285 

-Baths in the Thiiringer 

Wald, 502 

Liebethaler Grund, 490 
Liebewerda Baths, in Bohe¬ 
mia, 441 

Liebfrauenmilch, 543 
Liege, 178. Coal-mines, 179. Bi¬ 
shop’s palace, 179. Churches, 
179. University, 182. Wal¬ 
loon dialect, 182. Localities 
and events of ‘ Quentin Dur- 
ward,’ 183. Historical notice, 
183. Environs, 184 

-to Chaudfontaine and 

Spa, 186 

-to Aix la-Chapelle, by 

Verviers, 185 

-* to Louvain, 190 

-* to Namur, 175 

Liegnitz, 437 
Lierre, 154, 194 
Ligne, 111 
Ligny,209 
Lilienstein, 491, 492 
Lille,107 

-- to Brussels by Tournay, 

109 

-, by Courtrai and 

Ghent, 112 
Lillo Fort, 119 
Limburg in Belgium, 190 

-on the Lahn, 529 

-on the Lenne, 386 

Lindern, 260 
Linge, river, 84 
Link, 487 

Linnaeus’s residence in Hol¬ 
land, 43 

Linz on the Rhine, 272 
Lippe, river, 237, 394 
Lippe Detmold, 394 
Lippspringe, 394 
Lippstadt, 389 
Lippoldsberge, 400 
Lissa, battle of, 437 
Lixhe, 185 
Lobau,440 
Lobbes, 210 
Lobith, 236 
Lobshorn, stud at, 394 
Lochmiihle, 304 
Loccum Abbey, 406 
Lodelinsart, 210 
Loevestein, Grotius’s prison, 84 
Lohmen, 490 
Lohnbedienter, 215 
Lohne, 377, 394 
Lolinkutscher, 219 
Lokeren, 141 
Lomme, valley, 199 
London to Rotterdam, 24 
-to Ostend, 123 


MAASBRACHT. 

London to Antwerp, 118 

-to Hamburg, 331 

Longdoz, 194 
Longlier, 201 
Loo,the, 80 
Loochristy, 140 
Loppingen, 587 
Lorch,289 
Lorchhausen, 289 
Lorsch, 557 
Losheim, 324 
Lossnitz, 468 
Loth, 112, 207 

Louvain, 190. Magnificent 
Hfitel de Ville, 191. Church, 
191. University, 192. Pic¬ 
tures, 192. Tower of Jan- 
senius, 192. Beer, 192 

-to Maestricht and Aix- 

la-Chapelle, 194 

-to Liege, 190 

Louviere, la, 198 
Ldwen, 451 
Lowenberg, 442 
Lubeck, 337. Historical notice, 
337. Cathedral, 338. Ma- 
rienkirche, 339. Rathhaus, 
339. Other buildings, 340. 
Trade, 340 
Luckenwalde, 369 
Ludwigsfelde, 369 
Ludwigshafen, 543 
Ludwigslust, 344 

-to Schwerin and Dobbe- 

ran, 344 
L'uneburg, 342 
Lungwitz, 498 
Luppa Dahlen, 466 
Lurlei, 287 
Lustin, 203 

Luther at Eisleben,388. Mag¬ 
deburg, 384. Marburg, 397. 
Erfurt, 458.'Wittenberg, 370. 
Relics of, at Wolfenbuttel, 
352. Capture of, 455,502. At 
Schmalkalden, 502. At Co¬ 
burg, 503. His beech-tree, 
502. Worms, 542. Wartburg, 
455. Frankfort, 526. His 
elm, 543. 

Lutter, 391 
Luttre, 198 

L'utzen, 462. The Swede’s 
Stone, 462. Campaign of 
1813, 462 
Liitzerath, 309 
Luxemburg, 202, 211 

-* to Namur, 199 

Luxemburg Railway (Great) 
199 

Lys, river, 112, 131 


M. 

Maars, or crater lakes, of the 
Eifel, 328 
Maarsen, 70 
Maas, 24, 87 
Maasbracht, 90 














INDEX 


599 


MACHELEN. 

Machelen, 113 
Madenburg, 551 
Maese, river, 90 
Maeseyck, 196 

Maestricht, 90, 195. Citadel 
and caves of the Pietersberg, 
ft 195. 

—— to Aix-la-Chapelle, 196 
—— to Liege, 196 

-* to Bergen-op-Zoom, 90 

-* to Brussels, 194 

Magdeburg, 383. Fortifica¬ 
tions, 383. Cathedral, 383. 
Gardens, 384. Luther at, 384 

-* to Berlin, by railroad,364 

-to Leipzig, 372 

-* to Hanover and Cologne, 

375 

-* to Nordhausen and the 

Harz, 417 

-* to Brunswick and Pa- 

derborn, 389 

-to Wittenberge, 375 

Miigdesprung, 418 
Mahlwinkel, 371 
Main-Weser-Bahn, 394 
Mainz, 299 
Maldeghem, 129 
Malderen, 139 

Malines , 157. Cathedral, 157. 
Paintings, 158. Church of 
Notre Dame, 158. Lace, 158 
Malmedi, 325 
Malplaquet, 209 
Malsch, 437, 566 
Mandersclieid, 328 
Mannheim, 544. Its history, 
544. Has few objects to 
detain travellers, 545. Pa¬ 
lace, 545. Gardens, theatre, 
club, 545 

-to Heidelberg and Schwet- 

zingen,545 

-to Spires, 546 

-to Saarbriicken, 550 

-to Strasburg, by Landau, 

550 

Mansfeld, 388 

Maps, travelling, of Germany, 
217 

-of Holland, 3 

Marbais, 209 

Marburg, 396. Church of St. 

Elizabeth, 396 
Marceau, monument of, 276 
Marche les Dames, 176 

-en Famenne, 200 

Marchiennes, 198, 210 
Mariembourg, 199 
Marienburg on the Vistula, 429 

-on the Moselle, 319 

Marken, isle of, 70 
Markt-Hanstiidt, 463 
Marksburg, 284 
Marlcsuhl, 455 
Martinstein, 537 
Marvel, Andrew, verses on 
Holland, 8 

Matsys, Quentin, 146, 148, 194 
Maubeuge, 210 


MEUSE. 


Maulus-Muhle, 211 
Maxau, 551 
Mayen, 307 

Ma'yence, 299. Cathedral, 
299. Museum, 301. Public 
gardens, 302. Tower of 
Drusus, theatre, 302. Print¬ 
ing invented here, 302. 
Gutemburg’s statue, 302 

-* to Coblenz and down 

the Rhine, 283 

-* to Bingen by Ingelheim, 

535 

-to Frankfurt, by railway, 

534 


-to Darmstadt and Aschaf- 

fenburg, 535 

-to Mannheim and Heidel¬ 
berg , 539, 550 

-to Metz, 538 

-by the Rhine to Worms, 

Mannheim, Spires, and Stras¬ 
burg, 540 

Measures, Foreign, Table of, 
xxxv 

Mechlin, 156 

-to Liege, 190 

Medemblik, 69 

Meerfelder-Maar,?328 

Meersen, 196 

Mehlem, 269 

Meinau, isle of, 586 

Meinberg, 394 

Meinbrexen, 401 

Meiningen, 503 

Mekesheim, 588 

Meissen, 467 ; cathedral, 467 ; 

china manufactory, 467 
Meissner mountain, 387 
Melibocus, 555 
Melle, 138, 393 
Memel, 433 

Memling, Hans, 99, 125, 427 
Mendelssohn, birthplace of, 334 
Mendig quarries, 307 
Mengede, 376 
Menin, 116 
Menzenschwand, 586 
Meppel, 76 
Meppen, 79 
Merk, river, 87 
Merkelsdorf, 447 
Merode, 248 

Merseburg, 462 ; cathedral, 462 
Merwe, river, 84 
Merxleben, 505 
Merzig, 538 
Meschede, 387 
Metkau, 446 

Metternich, birthplace of 
Prince, 280. Village, 308. 
Castles, 320 
Mettlach, 538 
Metz, 540 

-* to Mayence, 538 

Meuse, the river, from Namur 
to Liege, 176 

-from Namur to Dinant 

and Givet, 203 
-, tour of, 102 


MUNSTER-BILSEN. 

Miasteckzo, 429 

Middelburg, 120 

Minden or Miinden, 377. 

Battle of, 377 
Mines of the Harz, 410 
Mittelheim, 296 
Mittelspay, 285 
Mittenheim, 541 
Mbckern, 374 
Moerdijk, 87 
Mdhra, 502 
Mdllenbeck, 403 
Mdlln, 337 
Mollwitz, 451 
Mombach, 534 
Monchshof, 391 

Money, best mode of taking 
abroad, xv. Tables of fo¬ 
reign, with the English value, 
xxxvi-xxxix. Dutch, 2. 
Belgian, 92. German, 217. 
Prussian, 234. Saxon, 453. 
Of Nassau, Frankfurt, &c., 
509 

Monnikendam, 69 
Mons, 208 

-to Valenciennes, 209 

-*to Brussels, 207 

Montabaur, 532 
Montaigle, 204 
Montigny, 197 
Montjardin, 189 
Montjoie, 323 
Montroyal, 319 
Mont St. Guibert, 200 
Mont St. Jean, 169 
Mont Tonnerre, 541 
Monzingen, 537 
Moravian colony, 72, 275, 448 
Moreau’s monument, 486 
Moritzburg, 374 
Mosbach, 299, 534, 587 
Moselle river, 203. Junction 
with the Rhine, 276. Ice on 
the, 277. Descent of, 317. 
Wines, 317. Steamers on 
the, 317 
Moselkern, 321 
Moselweiss, 323 
Mouscron, 112 
Mouse Tower, 292 
Moustier, 199 
Miiden, 321 
Muggensturm, 566 
Miihlberg, 466 
Miihlhausen, 504, 583 
Muhlhofen, 276 
Miihlthal, 285 
Mulde, river, 372, 468 
Miilheim on the Rhine, 239, 
259, 570. 

-on the Moselle, 318 

•-on the Rhur, 375 

Miilsengrund, 498 
Miinden, 404 
Mungersdorf, 249 
Munster, 391. Anabaptists, 392 

- to Osnabruck,391 

-to Detmold, 393 

Munster-Bilsen, 194 

















GOO 


INDEX 


MUNSTER-AM-STEIN. 
Miinster-am-Stein, 536 
Miinster-Maifeld, 308 
Murg, valley of the, 577 
Music, in Holland, 20. Ger¬ 
man, 228 
Muskau, 440 
Mutterstadt, 546 
My Uncle Toby, 139, 175 
Myslowitz, 451 

N. 

Nachod, 450 

Nahe, river — mouth of, 293. 

Excursion up the, 535 
Nakel, 427 ^ 

Nameche, 176 
Namedy, 274 

Namur, 175. Cathedral, 175. 
Church of St. Loup, 175. 
Citadel, 175. Cutlery, 175. 

-to Virieux and Givet, 199. 

-to Liege, 176 

•-to Luxemburg and Treves, 

200 

Nannine, 200 

Nassau: Coins, 509. Posting, 
510. Castle of, 514. Baths 
and Brunnen, 512-523 
Natoye, 200 
Nauen, 345 

Nauheim, 396, 533, 535 
Naumburg, 461 
Nazareth, 113 
Neckar, source of, 582 

- junction with Rhine, 

543, 555 

■-at Heidelberg, 563 

Neckar Elz, 587 
Neckar Gemund, 587 
Neerwinden, 193 
Neethe, river, 157 
Neisse, 451. River, 436, 449 
Nenndorf, 378 
Nennig, 538 
Nessonvaux, 186 
Nette, river, 275 
Neudeck, 505 
Neuenahr, 304 
Neuenburg, 571 
Neuendorf, 276 
Neuenheim, 565 
Neufahrwasser, 429 
Neufch&teau, 207 
Neufmoustier, 177 
Neu-groschen, 453 
Neumagen, 318 
Neumarkt, 437 
Neunkirchen, 537, 540, 549 
Neu Paka, 447 
Neu Ruppin, 345 
Neuss, 240 

Neustadt-Eberswalde, 420 
Neustadt an der Haardt, 549, 
550 

Neustadt in Prussia, 345, 422 
Neustadt in Saxony, 507 
Neustadt on the Wutach, 587 
Neuwied, 275 
Nicholas, St., 141 


ODER. 

Nidda, valley, 394 
Niedeggen, 249 
Niederau, 467 
Niederbiber, 275 
Niederbreisig, 273 
Nieder-Dollendorf, 269 
Niedergrund, 494 
Nieder-Heimbach, 290 
Niederlahnstein, 284 
Nieder-Mendig, 307 
Niederolm, 539 
Niederselters, 516 
Niedershof heim, 568 
Niederspay, 282 
Niedervvald, the, 294 
Nieder-Walluff, 298 
Niedervvdllstadt, 395 
Nienburg, 404, 407 
Nienhagen, 418 
Nierstein vineyard, 540 
Nieuport, 116; battle of, 116 
Nieuwesluis, 70 
Nieuwpoort, 85 
Nieuwe Diep, 67 
Nieuwer Oosteinde, 37 
Nijmegen, 72 

-* to Amsterdam, 70 

-* to Rotterdam, 82 

-to Cologne, 240 

Nimkau, 437 
Nimy, 198 
Ninove, 122 
Nippes, 306 
Nirm, 248 
Nivelles, 174 
Nogat river, 429 
Nonnenwertli, 271 
Nordernei Isle, 408 
Nordhausen, 388 

-to Halle, 388 

-to Magdeburg and the 

Harz, 417 

Nordheim, 405,411 
Nordstemmen, 406 
Norwegian church of wood, 443 
N uenen-Tongerlee, 9 0 
Niirberg, 305 
Nylen, 156 .« 

Nymwegen, 90 

0 . 

Oberbeuern, 576 
Oberbreisig, 273 
Oberhausen, 238,375 
Oberhoff, 505 
Oberlahnstein, 284 
Ober-Roblingen, 389 
Ober-Schefllenz, 587 
Oberspay, 285 
Oberstein, 537 
Ober-Ursel, 532 
Oberwerth, 283 
Oberwesel, 287 
Oberwinter, 271 
Obourg, 198 
Ocker, river, 381 
Odenwald, excursion in the, 
554-557 

Oder, river, 420 


PADERBORN. 

Oderberg, 452 
Oederan, 498 
Oelde, 376 
Oels, 439 
Oest Cappel, 115 
Oestrich, 297 
Oetringen, 203 
Oevnhausen, 377 
Offenburg, 567, 581 

- to Schaffhausen, by the 

vale of the Kinzig and Do- 
naueschingen, 581 
Oggersheim, 543, 552 
Ohlau, 451 
Ohr, 402 
Ohrdruf, 505 

Oker,. vale of, 411. Village , 
412 

Oldenburg, 343 
Oldendorf, 403 
Oldesloe, 337 
Oliva, 429 
Olsene, 113 
Omer, St., 106 

Ommerschans, penitentiary 
colony at, 77 
Oos, 567' 

Opatowitz, 450 
Oppeln, 451 
Oppenan, 569 

Oppenheim, beautiful Gothic 
church, 540 

Organs in Dutch churches, 20 
Orschweier,’568 
Ortenburg Castle, 568 
Orval, abbey, 206 
Oschatz, 468 
Oschersleben, 383, 419 
Osnob ruck, 393 
Ossiek, 427 

Ossmandstadt.Wieland’s grave, 
460 

Ostend, 123 

-to Bruges and Ghent, 123 

-*to Calais, 117 

Osterath, 241 
Osterburg, 371 
Osterode, 405, 411 
Osterspay, 285 
Ostervvijk, 90 
Osthofen, 541 
Oswiecim, 451 
Otterberg, 541 
Ottersweier, 567 
Ottensen, 336 
Ottersberg, 343 
Ottignies, 200, 209 
Ottowalder Grund, 490 
Ottweiler, 537 
Oudenarde, 113 
Oudenbosch, 87 
Oudenburg, 123 
Oudewater, 81 
Ougree, 178 

Ourthe, river, 179, 183, 186 

P. 

Pader, river, 390 
Paderborn, 390 



















INDEX 


C01 


PADERBORN. 

Paderborn to Hanover, 394 
Pallien, 316, 325 
Pankenin, 422 
Pannerden, 86 
Pardubitz, 450 

Paris * to Brussels, by Mons, 
207 

•-* to Brussels, by Ottignies, 

&c„ 209 

Paschenburg, 378 
Pasewalk, 423 
Passarge, river, 430 
Passow, 421 

Pa sspoets, English, xvi. Aus¬ 
trian, xviii. Belgian, 92. 
Dutch, 1. German, 213, 233 
Patersberg, 287 
Paulinenau, 345 
Paulinzelle, 506 
Pauper agricultural colonies, 
76,156 

Pays de Waes, 141 
Peacock Island, 364 
Peat fuel in Holland, 12 
Peculiarities of manners 
Dutch, 18; German, 221 
Peine, 380 
Pelm, 326 
Penipelfort, 239 
Penzig, 441 
Pepinster, 186 
Perck—Teniers’ house, 159 
Peter the Great, 64 
Petershagen, 404 
Peterspay, 285 
Petertnal, 569. 

Pfahlgraben, 513, 521 
Pfalz, 288 
Pfiffligheim, 543 
Philip the Good, 204 
Philippeville, 195 
Philipsburg, 548 
Philipsland, 88 
Phillipsliall, 552 
Physicians’ fees in Germany, 
228 

Picture Galleries:— 

-Amsterdam, 53 

■-Antwerp, 149 

-Berlin, 352 

-Breslau, 439 

-Bruges, 128 

- Brunswick, 380 

-Brussels, 161 

-Cassel, 398 

-- Cologne, 257 

-Darmstadt, 553 

-Dresden, 473 

-• Frankfurt, 527 

-Ghent, 135 

-Gotha, 455 

-Haarlem, 43 

-Hague, 31 

-Hanover, 379 

-Leipzig, 464 

-Louvain, 192 

-Liitzschena, 466 

-Mayence, 301 

-Potsdam, 367 

-Schwerin, 341 

[n. g.] 


PURMERENDE, 

Pierre-les-Calais, St., 105 
Piesport, 318 
Piet-Gyzenbrug, 43 
Pietersberg, near Maestricht, 
caves of, 185, 195 
Pillau, 431, 432 
Pillnitz, 490 
Pima, 490 
Planchenoit, 170 
Plasschendael, 124 
Platte, the, 522 
Plauen, 495, 500 
Plauensche Grund, 497 
Plittersdorf, 269 
Podelzig, 426 
Poganitz, 421 
Poilvache, 203 
Poix, 200 
Polch, 308 

Polders, 12. In N. Holland, 67 
Polle, 402 
Pommritz, 440 
Poniatowski’s death, 464 
Pont-a-Celles, 198 
Poperinghe, 116 
Poppelsdorf, 267 
Porta Westphalica, 377, 403 
Posen, 434 

-to Breslau, 435 

Posting — in Holland, 3 ; in 
France and Belgium, 93 ; in 
Germany, 218 ; in Prussia, 
234 ; in Saxony, 453 ; in 
Nassau, Hesse, &c., 510 
Potschappel, 495 
Potsdam, 364. Tomb of Fre¬ 
derick the Great, 365. Pa¬ 
lace, 365. Sans Souci, 366. 
New Palace, 367. Charlot- 
tenhof, 367. Russian colony, 
368 

-to Magdeburg, 368 

-to Dresden, 374 

-* to Berlin, 364 

Potzscha, 489 
Praust, 429 
Prebisch Thor, 494 
Pregel, river, 432 
Prenzlow, 421 

Priessnitz’ Water-Cure Estab¬ 
lishment, 451 

Printing, invention of, 44, 302, 
579 

Pristewitz, 467 
Priim, 324 

-to Gerolstein, Daun, 

and Lutzerath, 326 
Prussia —Passports, 232. New 
custom-house system, 232. 
Money of, 233. Travelling 
in, 234. Posting in, 234. 
Schnellposts, 234. Inns, 
235 

Prussian commercial' league, 
216 

Putfendorf’s birthplace, 498 
Pumpe (Eschweiler), 248 
Pumpernickel, 385 
Piinderich, 319 
Purmerende, 63, 69 


RAILROADS. 

Putbus baths, 424 
Putzburg, 269 
Putzfeld, 305 

Pyrmont, watering-place, 402, 
Mineral springs, 403. Gas 
Grotto, 402 

-to Hanover, 393 

-*to Frankfurt, 394 

-*to Cologne, 374 


Q. 

Quariz, 436 

Quarterly Review on Travel, xii 

Quatre Bras, 174 

Quatre Fils Aymon, 189 

Quedlinburg, 418 

Queich, river, 551 

Quentin Durward, 189 

Quentin, St., 210 

Quevv, 209 

Quievrain, 198, 205 

Quint, 318 

Quoltitz, 425 


K. 

Radeberg, 439 
Radolfzell, 583 
Rafts on the Rhine, 262, 577 
Railroads : 

-Rotterdam to Amsterdam, 

28 

-Hague to Leiden, 37 

-Amsterdam to Haarlem, 

Leiden, the Hague, and 
Rotterdam, 42, 47 

-Amsterdam to Broek and 

to Zaandam, 60 

-Haarlem to the Helder, 

by Alkmaar and HetNieuwe 
Diep, 64 

-Amsterdam to Utrecht 

and Arnhem, 70 

-Arnhem to Zutphen and 

Zwolle, 79 

-Rotterdam to Antwerp, 

by Moerdijk, 86 

- Arnhem to Emmerich, 

Cologne, Minden, and Cleves, 
72. 

-Utrecht to Maestricht, 90 

-Calais to Brussels, 103 

-Courtrai to Brussels, 113 ' 

-Belgian, 93, 12!, 124, 130, 

140, 141, 157, 190 
-Great Luxemburg,to Na¬ 
mur by Groenendael, Ottig¬ 
nies, Gembloux, and llhisne 
Stats., 168, 200 

-Mechlin to Liege and 

Aix-la-Chapelle, 185, 190 
-Antwerp to Aix-la-Cha¬ 
pelle, 194 

-Arnhem to Cologne, 236 

-- Aix-la-Chapelle to Co¬ 
logne, 242 

2 D 




















602 


INDEX 


RAILROADS. 
Railroads : 

-Cologne to Coblenz, 265 

- Riidesheim to Biebrich, 

295 

-Mayence to Frankfurt, 

303, 524, 530 

• -Cologne-Giessen, 329 

-- Hamburg to Lubeck, 337 

-to Stralsund, 340 

——-to Berlin, 344 

-Berlin to Potsdam and 

Magdeburg, 364 
-to Leipzig, by Wit¬ 
tenberg, 369 ; by Cotben, 371 

-to Dresden, 374 

-to Stettin, 420 

-to Frankfurt on the 

Oder, 436 

• - Cologne to Berlin, 375 

-Dresden to Breslau, 439 

-Breslau to Cracow, 450 

-Breslau to Vienna, 451 

- - Cassel to Eisenach, 501 

• -Diisseldorf to Eiberfeld, 

385 

-Brunswick to Wolfenbiit- 

tel and Harzbnrg, 382 
-Brunswick to Hanover,342 

• -Brussels to Namur, by 

Charleroi, 197 

-Louvain to Charleroi, 199 

-Charleroi to Paris, 198 

--Frankfurt a.M. to Leipzig, 

626 

■-Carlsruhe to Baden-Baden, 

571 

-Baden to Strasburg, 577 

-Leipzig to Dresden, 466 

-Leipzig to Hof, 499 

-to Carlsbad, 501 

— - Frankfurt a. M. to Cassel, 
395 

— -Coblenz to Frankfurt a. 

M., by Ems, 511 
—— Frankfurt to Mayence 
and Wiesbaden, 523,530,535 

-Mannheim to Heidelberg, 

549 

Frankfurt to Heidelberg, 
554 

-Mannheim to Forbach, 

Railway of the Palatinate, 

549 

-Mayence to 'Strasburg, 

550 

; -Heidelberg to Carlsruhe 

Baden, Strasburg, and Bale, 
554,566 
Raismes, 197 
Ramillies, 193 

Rammelsberg mines, 411, 412 
Ransart, 206 

Raphael’s Madonna di San 
Sisto, 475 

Rastadt, Palace, 566. Con¬ 
gresses of, 566 
Ratibor, 454 
Ratzeburg, 337 
Rauentbal, 298 
llebaix, 122 


THE RHINE. 

Rech,304 

Rechnitz, river, 342 
Rees, 238 
Rehme, 377, 403 
Reichartshausen Schloss, 297 
Reichenau, 447, 584 
Iteichenbach, 440, 502 
Reichenberg, 449, 587 
Reichenberg castle, 287 
Reid, la, 189 
Reil, 319 
Reinbeck, 344 
Reinerz, 450 
Reinhardsbrunn, 455 
Reinhardswald, 400 
Reinstein castle, 416 
Remagen, 272 

-to Ahrweiler and Alten- 

ahr, 303 

Rembrandt, pictures, 33, 54 ; 

mill, 41; statue of, 55 
Remouchamps, 189 
Renchen, 567 
Renderich, 540 
Rethen, 407 
Reuwer, 90 

Reynolds, Sir J., description 
of the Dutch school, 17 

-School of Rubens, 99 

- pictures at the Hague, 13 

-at Amsterdam, 53 

-at Alost, 121 

-at Ghent, 134 

——--at Mechlin, 157 

-at Brussels, 161 

-at Antwerp,142-151 

-at Cologne, 256 

Rheda, 376 
Rheenen, 86 
Rheindiebach, 289 
Rheine, 79, 393 
Rheineck, 273 
Rheinfels, 286 
Rlieingau, 290 
Rheingrafenstein, 536 
Rlieinsberg, 345 
Rheinstein, castle of New 
290 

Rhense, 284 
Rheydt, 260 

The Rhine, mouth of, at Kat- 
wijk, 42, 85 

-(A) in Holland, 82-89 

--ascent of, not recom¬ 
mended, 82 

-Waal branch, Rotterdam 

to Nijmegen, 82 

-Lek branch, Rotterdam 

to Arnhem, 85 

■-IJssel branch, 86 

-(B) Arnhem to Cologne, 

236 

-(C) Cologne to Coblenz, 

260 

-Byron’s description of 260 

-a German account of, 261 

-bridge over, 249 

-rafts on, 262 

-steamers on, 263 

-scenery of, 264 


ROTTERDAM. 

The Rhine, best mode of seeing, 
264 

-(D) Coblenz to Mayence, 

283 

—— castles, 290 

-wines and vinevards, 290, 

296 

-scenery near Bingen, 294 ‘ 

-(E) from Mayence to 

Strasburg, 540-549 

--scenery dull, 540 

-gold washed from its 

sands, 549 

Rhine, caution as to taking 
places in the steamers direct 
from London, 264 
Rhisnes, 200 
Ribnitz, 342 

Richard Coeur-de-Lion’s pri¬ 
son, 553 
Riegel, 568 
Riesa, 466, 473 
Riesensaule, 555 
Riestedt, 388 
Riedbohringen,f584 
Riesengebirge, 441-447. Ge¬ 
neral account of the, 441. 
Sketch of a tour in, 442 
Rijmenant, 190 
Ilinteln, 403 
Ritter, birthplace of, 419 
Roche, la, 209 
Rochefort, 200 
Rodach, 505 
Rodelheim, 528 
Iiodenstein castle, 556 
Roderau, 374 
Roderberg, 271 
Roer, river, 248, 260 
Roermond, 90 
Rogatz, 371 
Rogers on Travel, x 
Rohrbach, 542 
Roisdorf, 265 

Rolandsaule, 363, 407, 459 
Rolandseck, 271 
Rdmhild, 503 

lloneberg, 507 , 

Roosbecke, battle of, 112 
Roosendaal, 89 

Rosenau, Prince Albert’s birth. 

place, 504 • ,/ 

Rosendael, 90 
Rosenthal, 448 
Roslau, 372 

Rosoux, 193 .1 * 

Rossbach, 461 
Rossla, 388. River, 372 
Rosstiappe, 416 
Rostock, 341 
Rotte, river, 26 
Rotterdam, 25-28 
-to the Hague and Amster¬ 
dam, 28 

-to Arnhem, Cologne, &c., 

by Gouda and Utrecht, 80 

- to Nijmegen, by the 

Waal, 82 

-to Arnhem by the Lek, 85 

-to Antwerp, by Rail, 86 



































Index 


603 


ROTTERDAM. 

Rotterdam to Antwerp, by 
water, 88 

-ascent of the Rhine from, 

86 

Roth, 327 
Rothenburg, 343 
Roubaix, 112 
Roulers, 139 
Rousbrugge, 116 
Roux, 198 
Riibeland, 414 

Rubens’s chair, 149. Birth¬ 
place, 256, 329 

-chateau at Steen, 159 

-pictures at Ghent, 133 

-Antwerp, 143, 

148, 150 

-Cologne, 256 

- — -Mechlin, 158 

-school and character of, 99 

Rudesheim, 295. Wine, 296 
Rudolstadt, 506 
R'ugen, isle of, 423 
Ruhrort, 237 

Ruhr river, 237. Valley, 238, 
329 

Rumbeke, 140 
Rumpchen, 304 
Runkel, 529 
Ruremonde, 196 
Rustemburg, 67 
Ruysbroek, 112, 207 
Ryswyk, 30 


s. 

Saal, river, 463 
Saalburg, 533 
Saale, 371, 505 
Saaler-Bodden, 342 
Saalfeld, 507 
Saaimrinster, 45 
Saar, river, 203, 538 
Saarbriicken, 537, 540 

-to Treves, 538 

Saarburg, 538 

Saardam, Peter the Great’s 
house, 63 
Saarlouis, 538 
i ehsenhausen, 526 
owa, battle-field, 450 
~an,436 
,ard, 425 
fcaintes, 111 
Salm, river, 188 
Salzbergen, 81, 392 
Salzbrunn, 447 
Salzderhelden, 405 
Salzig, 285 
Salzkotten, 390 
Salzungen,502 

Sambre, la, 199. River, 199,200 
Sambreand Meuse Railway,198 
Samter, 434 
Sandersfeld, 343 
Sangerhausen, 388 
Sans Souci, 365 
Santbergen, 122 
Sarstedt, 407 


SCHWALBACI1. 

S’assbach, death ofTurenne, 568 
Saterland, 79 
Sassendorf, 389 

Saventhem, Van Dyk’s adven¬ 
ture at, 167 

Saxon Switzerland, 488-495 
Saxony, 453-487. Money, 
453. Posting, 453 
Sayn valley, and iron-works 
of, 276. Castle, 276 
Schaerbeclt, 158 
Schamberg, 581 
Scliaffhausen, 580, 586 

- * to Freiburg, 586 

-* to Offenburg, 582 

Schagen, 67 
Sehaidt, 552 
Schallstadt, 570 
Schandau, 493 

•-to Dresden, 488 

Schatzlar, 445 
Schaumburg 378, 530 
Schelde, 89, 108, 117, 131, 

141, 197 

Schenkenschanze, 236 
Schermeer Hoorn, 67 
Scheveningen, 37 
Scliie, river, 28 
Schiedam, 25, 28 
Schierke, 414 
Schierstein, 298 
SchUl'erstadt, 546, 551 
Schiller’s house and grave, 462. 

Statue, 302 
Schkeuditz, 374 
Schladern, 329 
Schlaigneux, 177 
Schlangenbad , 517 
Schlawe, 422 
Schlayn, 176 
Schleusingen, 505, 508 
Schliengen, 572 
Sell loss Elz, 321 
Schliichtern, 459 
Schlusselburg, 404 
Schmalkalden, 502 
Sclimiedeberg, 446 
Schmiergeld, 212 
Schmdllen, 507 
Schneeberg, 501 

-the, 450 

Schneekoppe, 444 
Schneidemuhl, 427 
Schnellposts, 218, 235 
Schoffer, 543 

Schonberg, or Schomberg, 288, 
445 

Schonebeck, 371 
Schonecken, 324 
Schdnbornlust, 276 
Schonlanke, 427 
Schbnmiinznach, 578 
Schoonhoven, 85 
Schoppenstadt, 383 
wen,89 
.nrock, 551 
Schulpforta, 461 
Schiualbach, 514. ‘The Rub¬ 
bles,’ 515. Springs, 515. 
Excursions, 516 


SPA. 

Schwarzenbeck, 344 
Sclnvarza, 506 
Schwarzburg castle, 506 
Scluvar/.-Uheindorf, 265 
Schwajze, river, 451 
Schwedt, 420 
Schweidnitz, 446 
Schweitzerthal, 287 
Schwelm, 386 
Schwerin, 340 
Schw'etz, 427 
Schwetzingen, 543 
Sebaldsbruck, 407 
Sechtem, 265 
Seckach, 587 
Seclin, 197 
Seehausen, 371 
Seesen, 391 
Selke valley, 418 
Selters, 517 
Seltzer w'ater, 517 
Sembach, 539 
Senhals, 320 
Senheim, 320 
Senne, river, 207 
Senner Wald, 394 
Seraing, 178 
Seven Mountains, 269 
S’Gravendeel, 88 
Shalkenmehrer-Maar, 328 
Sichens, 194 
Sidney, Sir Philip, 79 
Siebengebirge, 269 
Sieg river, 265, 329 
Siegburg, 329 
Siegen, 329 
Siegersdorf, 438 
Sievershausen, 380 
Silberberg, 450 
Silenrieux, 197 j 
Silesia, 436 
Simpelveld, 196 
Simmern, 328 
Singen,583 
Sinzheim, 567 
Sinzig, 273 
Sittard, 90 

Skeleton tours, xxviii-xxxiv, 

102 

Slate quarries of the Harz, 411 

Sluis, 129 

Sobernheim, 536 

Soden, 531 

Soest, 73,389 

Soestdyk, 73 

Soignies, forest of, 169 

- tow n, 208 

Solingen, 385 

Solre, 210 

Somain, 197 

Sombrefle, 175 

Sommerfeld, 436 

Sondershausen, 388 

Sonneberg—its manufactures 

of toys, 507 
Sorau, 436 
Sose, river, 410 
Sotteghem, 114 
Soultz-sous-Foret, 552 
Spa, 187. Kedoute, 187. 














004 


INDEX, 


STEINBERG. 

Mineral springs, 187. Caves 
near, 189 

•Spa to Liege, 185 

- to Verviers, 189 

■-to Malmedi.the Eifel, and 

Coblenz, 325 
Spandau,34 5 
Sparenberg castle, 37 6 
Speier, 548 
Speyk, Van, 120 
Spires, 546. Its eventful his¬ 
tory, 546. Atrocities of the 
French. 547. Cathedral, 547. 
Antiquities, 548. Alt portal 
Retscher, 548 
—— to Strasburg, 540, 548 

-* to Mayence, 540 

Spittelndorf, 437 
Sponheim Abbey, 536 
Spree, river, 345, 440 
Sprottau, 437 
Spurs, battle of, 113 
Stade, 332 
Stadel Musem, 527 
Stadthagen, 378 
Stadtkyll, 326 
StafFelstein,505 
Standebiihl, 539 
Stargard, 422, 434 
Starkenburg, 319,557 
Starzeddel, 436 
Staudernheim, 536 
Stavelot, 210, 325 
Stavenis, 88 

Steamboats from England to the 
Continent, xxiv 

-- London to Rotterdam, 24 

-Antwerp, 118 

-Ostend, 123 

-Hamburg, 331 

— --Harlingen, 75 

-at Rotterdam, 28 

—— Dover to Calais, 104 

--Amsterdam to Harlingen, 

75 

— Rotterdam to Nijmegen, 
up the Rhine, 82 

-- Amsterdam to Zaandam 

and Alkmaar, 60, 64 

-- on the Meuse, 176 

-Dinant to Namur, 203 

— Arnhem to Cologne, 236 

--Cologne to Coblenz and 

Mayence, 263 
--on the Moselle. 317 

• - Lubeck to St. Petersburg, 

340 

--on the Elbe, 342 

• -on the Weser, 400 

--Mayence to Mannheim 

and Strasburg, 540 
Stecknitz, valley, 337 
Steeg, 79 

Steen, Rubens’ chateau at, 158 

Steenkerke, 208 

Steig, 586 

Stein, castle of, 514 

Steinbach, 567 

Steinberg vinevard and wines 
298 


TAPIAU. 

Steinhuder Meer, 407 
Stendal. 371 
Sternberg, 285 

Sterne’s Advice to Travellers 
xii 

Sterpenich, 201 
Stettin , 421 

-to Swinemiimle,421, 423 

-to Stralsund and Riigen, 

423 

-* to Berlin, railroad, 420 

- to Danzig, Posen, and 

Breslau, 434 
Stevin, Simon, 130 
Stolzenau, 404 
Stolberg, 417 

Stolberg in Rlien. Prussia, 248 
Stolpe, 423 
Stolzenfels, 282, 283 
Storks in Holland, 20 
Strahlenberg castle, 558 
Stralsund, 424 

Strasburg, 578. Monument 
to Dessaix, 578. The Rhine 
at, 579. Munster, 578. Spire, 

578. Invention of printing, 

579. Marshal Saxe’s monu¬ 
ment, 580. Museum and 
library, 580. Arsenal, 580. 
The Jews’ Synagogue, 580. 
Pates de foies gras, 580. Ru- 
prechtsau, 581 

—— to Paris, 581 

-* to Mayence, 540 

-to Schaffhausen and Con¬ 
stance, bv Donaueschingen, 
581 

* to Baden, 577 

-* to Frankfurt, by Carls- 

ruhe and Heidelberg, 552 
Streckelberg, 422 
Striegau, 447 
Stromberg, 328 
Strdtzbusch, 328 
Stubbenkammer, 425 
Stiihlingen, 586 
Stultz, Baron, hospital founded 
by, 565. His birthplace, 569 
Stumsdorf, 373 
Sulil, 505 
Suiza, 460 
Sulzburg, 571 1 
Summer-houses in Holland, 15 
Sundwich, 387 
Sure, river, 202, 212 
Susteren, 90 
Suterberg, 343 
Swalmen, 90 
Swenningen, 583 
Swinemiinde, baths, 421 
-to Rugen,423 


T. 

Tables-d’hSte in Germany, 214 

Tafelfielite, 441 

Tamines, 199 

Tantow, 421 

Tapiau, 433 


TREVES. 

Taunus mountains, 302, 530 

Tegel, 361 

Tegelen, 90 

Teniers, 159 

Tergouw, 80 

Terespol, 427 

Termonde, 138 

Ternath, 122 

Terneusen, 119 

Tervueren, 166 

Tete de Flandre, 140 

Teufel’s Kiiclie, 489 

Tetschen, 495 

Teutschenthal, 389 

Texel, 68 

Thale-Halberstat, 415 
Thalers, kron, xxxviii 
Tharand, 495 
Themar, 503 
Theux, 186 
Thielen, 156 
Tholen, 89 

Thomas-h-Kempis, 74 
Thorn, 427 
Thorout, 140 
Thuin, 210 
Thulin, 198, 210 
Thurnberg, 286 
Tiefer Grund, 492 
Tieffurt, 460 
Tiel, 85 
Tilburg, 90 
Tilleur, 178 

Tilly’s birthplace, 209. Atro¬ 
cities at Magdeburg, 383 
Tilsit, 433 
Tirlemont, 192 
Titisee, 587 
Titles, German, 221 
Todtenliausen, 404 
Tolbiacum, 249 
Tollhuis, 86 
Tongres, 194 
Tonnerre, Mont, 539 
Tonnisstein, 306 
Tostedt, 343 
Tourcoing, 112 

Tours, sketches of,xxviii*xxxiv, 
103 

Tournay, 109 
Traben, 319 
Trarbach, 318 
Trappe, la, convent of, 156 
Trass, 273 
Trautenau, 449 
Travemunde, 340 
Travelling, maxims and bints 
for, ix-xiv 

- requisites for, xxii 

Trebbin, 369 
Trechtingshausen, 290 
Treis, 320 

Trekschuiten—in Holland, 3 
Treves, 311. History of, 311. 
Antiquities, 312. Cathedral, 

312. Church of our Lady, 

313. Heathen’s tower, 313. 
Roman baths or White Gate, 
313. Amphitheatre, 314. 
Black Gate, 314. Bridge, 










INDEX 


605 


TREVES. 

315. Library, Codex Aureus, 
310. Igel, 316 
Treves* to Coblenz, 308 

--down the Moselle, 

317 

- * to Aix-la-Chapelle, 323 

-*to Bingen, 328 

Triberg, 582 
Trier, 311 

TrifelsCastle, prison of Richard 
Coeur-de-Lion, 548, 551 
Trinkgeld, 217 
Trois Fonts, 212 

-Vierges, 211 

Tromp, Admiral, 24, 29 
Trond, St., 193 
Trooz, 186 
Trou de Han, 205 
Trouille, river, 209 
Tubise, 208 

Tulip mania in Holland, 45 
Tiindern, 402 
Turenne, death of, 568 
Turnhout, 156 
Turnpikemen, 224 
Tyrolese Protestant exiles in 
Silesia, 445 


u. 

Ueberlingen, 585 
Uelzen, 343 
Uerdingen, 238,260 
Uerzig, 318 
Ues, river, 309 
Unkel, 271 
Unkelstein, 271 
Unna, 376 
Ursula, St., 254 
Usedom, 422 
Usingen, 531 

Utrecht, 70. Treaty, 70. Stad- 
huis, 70. Cathedral, 70. Uni¬ 
versity, 71. Maliebaan, 71 

-* to Amsterdam, 70 

-to Arnhem, 72 

-to Nijmegen, 70 

-* to Rotterdam by Gouda, 

80 


V. 

Vacha, 457 
Val Benoit, 178 
Val St. Lambert, 178 
Valenciennes, 197 
Valets-de-place, 215 
Valkenburg, 196 
Van Dyk, 112,148, 151,167 
Varenholz, 403 
Vechelde, 380 
Vecht, river, 70 
Veckerhagen, 400 
Yeenenburg, 43 
Veenhuizen, mendicity colony 
at, 77 

Vehm Gericht, 376, 387, 574 
Velm, 193 


WANDSBECK. 

Velp, 72, 79 
Vends, 422, 426 
Venlo, 90 
Venloo, 196 
Verden, 407 
Vertryk, 192 
Verviers, 189 

Vesdre, valley of the, 186, 189 
Vianden, 212, 325 
Vianen, 85 

Victoria, Roman remains of,275 
Yierves, 199 
Vierland, 344 
Vierlanden, 333 
Vieux Dieu, 158 

-Salm, 180, 211, 326 

Vigilantes, 93 
Vilbel, 395 
Villers la Ville, 209 
Villingen, 582 
Vilmar, 529 
Vilvorde, 159 
Vink, 37 

“ Virgin's kiss,” 676 
Virieux, 199 
Virneburg castle, 305 
Virton, 207 
Vise, 185 

Vistula, 427, 429. Mouth of 
the, 429 

Vlaardingen, 25 
Vlissingen, 118 
Vlotho, 403 
Vogelenzang, 43 
Vohwinkel, 385 
Voigtland, 500 
Voorburg, 37 
Voorden, canal, 29 
Voorn, island, 24 
Voorschoten, 37 
Vreeland, 70 
Vreeswijk, 85 


w. 

Waal branch of the Rhine, 8,2 
86, 237 

Waardenburg, 90 
Wahern, 397 
Wachenheim, 554 
Wadenheim, 304 
Waereghem, 113 
Wageningen, 86 
Wahlstatt, 437 
Walburg, 552 
Walcheren, 117 
Walcourt, 199 
Waldbockenheim, 536 
Waldburg, 395 
Waldeck, 386 
Waldenburg, 447 
Waldorf, 265 

Walker’s ‘ Original ’ on Travel, 
xii, xiv 
Wallers, 197 

Walloon language, 95, 182 
Walporzheim, 304 
Wandre, 185 
Wandsbeck, 337 


WIEHENGEBERGE. 

Warbeck, Perkin, 110 
Warburg, 391 
Ware m me, 193 

fVarmbrunn —Baths, 443. River 
Zacken, 443. Kynast, 443. 
Schneekoppe,444 
Warmond, 42 
Warnemiinde, 342 
Warnow, 341 
Warnsfeld, 79 

-Wartburg, Luther’s prison, 455 
Wartha, 449 

-, river, 434 

Wassenach, 306 
Wasserbillig, 203 
Wasserglass painting, 356 
Watering-places, German, 325 
Watergueusen, 24 
Waterloo, 168-172. 

- to Namur, 173 

Watten, 106 
Wavre, 172, 174, 192. 
Wedigenstein, 403 
Weener, 78 
Weespelaer, 190 
Wegersleben, 383 
Wehlau, 433, 635 
Weichsel, or Vistula, 427 
Weilburg, 529 

Weimar, 459. Palace, library, 

459. Theatre, churchyard, 

460. Gothe’s house and grave, 
460. Schiller’s house and 
grave, 460 

Weinfelder-Maar, 327 
Weinheim, 558 
Weiskirchen, 528 
Weiss on the Moselle, 323 
Weissenburg, 552 
Weissenfels, 461 
Weissenthurm, 275 
Welmich, 286 
Welchingen, 583 
Wendel, St., 537 
Werdau, 500 
Werder, 368 
Werl, 389 
Wernigerode, 415 
Werra river, 387, 403, 501 
Werra-Baliu (Rail), 501 
Werther, scene of his “ Sor« 
rows,” 531 
Werwicq, 116 
Wesel, 237 

Weser river, 331, 377, 378, 401, 
404 

Wespenstein, 506 
West Kappel, dyke of, 117,118 
Westmael, 156 
Westphalia, 376 
Westuffeln, 387 
Wetteren, 122, 138 
Wetzlar, 528. * Sorrows of 

Werther ’ 528 
Wevelghem, 117 
Wichelen, 139 
Wickrath, 260 

Wied, river, 275. Castle, 531 
Wiel, 86 

i Wiehengeberge, 377 








606 


INDEX 


WIERTZ. 

Wiertz, painter, 204 
W ie8baden, 519. Inns and 
baths, 519. Kursaal, 620. 
Trinkhalle, 520. Kochbrun- 
nen, 520. Temperature of 
the springs, 520. Roman 
remains, 521. Pfahlgraben, 
521. Museum, 521. Thea¬ 
tre, 522. Platte, 522. Bi- 
berich, 523 

Wiesbaden* to Coblenz, 511 
—-to Frankfurt,by railway, 
523 

--to Eppstein, Falkenstein, 

and the Taunus, 533 
Wiesloeh, 564 
Wijk, by Duurstede, 86 
Wildenthal, 503 
Willebrod, St., basilica of, 211 
Wilferdange, 2J1 
Willgartswiesen, 552 
Wilhelmsbad, baths, 456 
Wilhelmsbahn, 452 
Wilhelmshafen, 343 
JVilhelmshuhe, 501; palace and 
garden, 399 
Willemsdorp, 87, 89 
Willemsoord, pauper colony of, 
76 

Willgartswiesen, 554 
William I. of Orange, statue of, 
29 ; murder of, 29; relics of, 
35 

Wilsnack, 345 
Wilverwich, 212 
Wimbern, 387 
Winden, 552 

Windmill of Sans Souci, 366 
Windmills in Holland, 49; 
Belgium, 108 

Wines and vineyards of the 
Rhine, 290 
Winkel, 296 
Winningen, 323 
Winsen, 342 
Winterberg, 494 
Winzingen, castle, 551 


XANTEN. 

Wirsitz,'427 
Wismar, 341 
Wissen, 329 

De Witt’s birthplace, 24. 
Death, 31 

Wittemberge, 418 . •- 

Witten, 386 
JVitXenberg , 369 
Wittenberge, 345 
Wittighausen, 587 
Wittlich, 309 
Witzenhausen, 389 
Wobbelin, 344 
Woensdrecht, 89 
Woerden, 81 
Wolchingen, 587 
Woldenberg, 434 
Wolfenbiittel, 382 
Wollin, 422 
Wollmirstadt, 371 
Worlitz, 372 

Worms, 541. Present state 
and former greatness; seat of 
imperial Diets, 542. Ca¬ 
thedral, 542 

Worms to Kreuznach, by 
Alzei, 543 
Worringen, 241 
Wbrstadt, 539 

Wortel, pauper colony of, 165 

Woudrichem, 84 

Wronker, 434 

Wulfel, 407 

Wultingerode, 388 

Wunstorf, 378 

Wupper, valley of the, 385 

Wurzburg, 588 

Wurzen, 466 

Wusterwitz, 369 

Wutach, river, 587 

Wyck, 196 

Wylre, 196 


X. 

Xanten, 237, 241 


ZWYNDRECHT. 

Y 

Yburg, 390, 572 
Ypres, 116 
1.1, river, 49, 60 
l[ssel river, 79, 82, 86 
IJsselmonde, island, 28 • 

Yvoir, 203 

z. 

Zaan, river, 63 
Zaandam, 63 
Zabrze, 451 
Zacken, 443 
Zahlbach, 303 
Zahna, 369 
Zahringen, 568 
Zand,the, 67 
Zappendorf, 505 
Zealand, 117 
Zehlendorf, 364 
Zeist, 72 
Zeitz, 461 
Zell, 319 
Zella, 505 
Zeltingen, 318 
Zernitz, 345 
Zevenaar, 236, 240 
Zevenbergen, 87 
Ziericksee, 89 
Zijp, 89 
Zittau, 448 
Zollverein, 216 
Zons, 239 
Zorbig, 371 
Zorndorf, 426 
Zuid Beveland, 89, 119 
Zuider Zee, 67, 69, 74 
Ziilpich, 249, 324 
Zutphen, 79 

Zweibriicken (Deux Ponts), 
539 

Zwickau, 498 
Zwingenberg, 555 
Zwolle, 74 
Zwyndrecht, 141 


THE END. 


LONDON : PRINTED BY "WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS, STAMFORD STREET, 

AND CHARING CROSS. 










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MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 

1870. 


The best Advertising Medium for all who are desirous of attracting the attention 
of English and American Tourists in all parts of the world. 

Annual Circulation, 15,000. 

Advertisements must be received by the ‘20th April, and are inserted at the rate of £5 for a page 

and 50s. for half a page. 


INDEX TO THE ADVERTISEMENTS. 


■ Page 

Aix LF.S Bains—G rand Hotel de 

PEnrope.64 

Alex a n dk i a —The Bulkeley Hotel 56 
Alexandra and Cairo—R obert¬ 
son, Booksellers.38 

Antwerp —Hotel St. Antoine . . 38 

Hotel de l’Europe .... 48 

■ H6tel de la Paix.48 

HOtel du Grand Laboureur . . 64 


Page 


Geneva —Grand Hotel de Itu9sie. 58 
Malignon’s Jewelry .... 46 

Pension Pieaud.58 

Mauchain, Wood Carvings . . 49 

Golav and Co.’s Watches and 

Jewelry.57 

Troll’s Musical Boxes . . .44 

Genoa —Hotel des Quatre Nations 50 
Hotel Croix de Malta .... 20 


Page 

VlENNA*-H6tel Archduke Charles 50 
Neuhoefer, Optician .... 49 

Klein’s Leather and Bronze Goods 32 
Villeneuve— Hotel Byron , . 44 

Wiesbaden— Black Bear Hotel . 48 
Four Seasons Hotel .... 42 

Wildbab —Hotel Klumpp ... 41 
Zoug —Stag Hotel.45 


Baden-Baden—V ictoria Hotel . 37 
Barcelona — Hotel des Quatre 

Nations.46 

Bellas to—Great Britain Hotel . 18 

HOtel Villa Giula.47 

Berlin—H otel Royal . . . .21 

Hotel d’Angleterre .... 39 
Berne—H eller’s Musical Boxes . 30 

Bex—G rand Hotel des Salines . 05 

Biarritz—H otel de France . . 33 

Bonn—G olden Star Hotel ... 23 
Bordeaux—HO tel des Princes . 10 

Bbienz—G rossmaun’s Wood Sculpt. 5 
Brussels—H otel de Belle Vue . 63 
Grand HOtel de Saxe .... 45 

Cairo—T he New Hotel.... 40 

Chamonix—C ompany’s Hotels . 57 
Ohaumont—HO tel de Chaumont. 37 
Cologne—F arina’s Eau de Cologne 8 
Constantinople—H otel d’Angle¬ 


terre .64 

Dieppe —HOtel des Bains ... 48 

HOtel Royal.45 

Duon—HO tel du Jura .... 31 

Dresden—HO tel de Saxe ... 44 
Kayser’s Hotel Bellevue ... 28 


lioppa, Pipes and Cigarholders 63 

EnGADINE—B aths of St. Moritz . 33 

Engeluebg—H otels Titlis audAnge 11 

Florence—A glietti <fc Sons, Artists 9 
Bianchim’s Mosaic .... 5 

Brizzi’s Musical Establishment. 24 

Costa and Conti, Artists . . .10 

Montelatid’s Mosaics. ... 61 

Romanelli, Sculpior .... 25 

Sasso and Son. Ai tists ... 43 

Frankfort— i'acclii’s Glass Ware¬ 
house .7 

Roman Emperor Hotel ... 19 

Holder's Manufactory of Stag¬ 
horn .51 

Geneva—B aker, Chemist . . . 60 

BrOmond, Musical Boxes . . 25 

Grand Hotel, Beau Kivage . .21 

Pension Flagell.36 

Grivaz, Jeweller ..... Is 
Hotel de la Couronne ... 24 

Hotel Victoria.34 

HOtel du Lac.18 

Hotel de 1’JScu.19 

Hotel de la Metropole ... 31 

HOtel de la Reconnaissance . 34 


Heidelberg—H otel de l’Europe . 43 
Homdourg—HO tel Victoria . . 42 

Hotel des Quatre Saisons. . . 16 

IntekLachkn—H otel de Belle Vuc 47 
HOtel Jungfrau.47 

Lausanne—H otel Beau Kivage . 42 

Hotel Gibbon.34 

Hotel Riche-Mont.34 

Lucerne—HO tel d’Angleterre. . 25 
Hotel Beau Kivage .... 42 

HOtel Schweizerhof .... 39 

Swan Hotel ...... 39 

Luchon — Grand Hotel Bonne- 
Maison.36 


Marseilles—G rand HOtel Noailles 40 
Mayence—H otel d’Angleterre . 18 

Milan—H otel Cavour .... 47 
Hotel de la Grand Bretagne . 39 
Munich — Wimmer’s Gallery of 
Fine Arts.6 

Naples—C ivalleri, Agent . . .61 

Nice—B aker, Chemist .... 60 

Hotel Chauvain.36 

Nuremberg—HO tel de Baviero . 44 

Red Horse Hotel.45 

Paris—H otel des Deux Mondes . 29 
Galiguaui's Guide .... 25 

Pisa—A ndreoni, Sculptor ... 5 

Poitiers—G rand HOtel du Palais 43 
Prague—H ofmann's Glass Manu¬ 
factory .9 

Kagaz—HO tel Tamina .... 18 

Rome—B aker, Chemist . . . 60 

>tiea. House Agent .... 16 

Rotterdam—K ramers, Bookseller 25 

Schaffhausen— Hotel Schweizer- 

Uot.41 

Seville —Hotel de Loudres . . 48 

Thun—S terchi, Sculptor in Wood 6 

Valais—HO tel Pension of Morgins 37 
Venice —Grand Hotel Victoria . 64 

Ponti, Optician.10 

Veuona—U dtel Colomba d’oro . 61 

Vevay—H otel Monuet .... 48 

Vienna—L obmeyr’s Glass Manu¬ 
factory. ....... 9 

Grand Hotel.43 


LONDON. 

Agents—M'Cracken .... 2-4 

- Olivier and Co. ... 12, 18 

-Carr and Co.14,15 

Books and Maps.59 

Cary’s Teles coi»e.19 

Chubb’s Locks and Safes . . . 17 

Continental Express Agency . . 35 

Couriers and Servants .... 22 

Dinneford’s Magnesia .... 58 

Education—Young Gentlemen . 47 

Edwards’ Photographic Apparatus 41 
Ellis’s Aerated Waters .... 28 

Foreign Books.32 

Gillott’s Pens.57 


Heal’s Furniture and Bedsteads . 62 

Lee and Carter's Guide Depot. . 66 

London and Westminster Bank . 28 


Mudie’s Library.24 

National Provincial Bank ... 52 
Note Paper and Envelopes ... 68 
Parr’s Life Pills.49 


Passport Agency—Adams ... 20 

Passport Agency—Dorrell ... 65 

Passport Agency—Stanford . . 21. 

Portmanteaus—Allen's .... 26 

Railway—South-Western ... 27 


Tennant—Geologist.11 

Thresher’s Essentials for Travel¬ 
ling .61 

Birmingham— 

Western Hotel ...... 65 

Bristol— 

Royal Hotel.87 

Exeter— 

Royal Clarence Hotel.... 47 


Lynton— 

Valley of Rocks Hotel ... 49 

Oxford— 

Spiers’ Ornamental Manufac¬ 
tures .25 

Penzance— 

Mount’s Bay House and Hotel . 58 
IRELAND. 

PORTRUSH— 

Antrim Arms Hotel .... 27 

IS 







































































2 


MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 


May, 


London, May 1, 1870. 

MESSRS. J. & R. M C CRACKEN, 

38, QUEEN STREET, GANNON STREET, E.C., 

AGENTS, BY APPOINTMENT, TO THE ROYAL ACADEMY, NATIONAL GALLERY, 
AND GOVERNMENT DEPARTMENT OF SCIENCE AND ART, 

GENERAL AND FOREIGN AGENTS, 

WINE MERCHANTS, 

Agents for Bouvier’s Aeuchatel Champagne, 

AND 

AGENTS GENERALLY FOR THE RECEPTION AND SHIPMENT OF WORKS OF 

ART, BAGGAGE, &C., 

F21QM ANB TO ALX» TARTS OF THE WORLD, 

Avail themselves of this opportunity to return their sincere thanks to the 
Nobility and Gentry for the patronage hitherto conferred on them, and hope to 
be honoured with a continuance of their favours. Their charges are framed with 
a due regard to economy, and the same care and attention will be bestowed as 
heretofore upon all packages passing through their hands. 


J. and R. M c C. have the advantage of 

DRY AND SPACIOUS WAREHOUSES, 

Where Works of Art and all descriptions of Property can be kept during the 
Owners’ absence, at most moderate rates of rent. 


Parties favouring J. and R. M c C. with their Consignments are lequestcd to be 
particular in having the Bills of Lading sent to them direct by Post, and also to 
forward their Keys with the Packages, as, although the contents may be free of 
Duty, all Packages are still examined by the Customs immediately on arrival. 
Packages sent by Steamers or otherwise to Southampton and Liverpool also attended 
to; but all Letters of Advice and Bills of Lading to be addressed to 38 , Queen 
Street, as above. 

MESSRS. J. AND R. MQCRACKEN 

ARE THE APPOINTED AGENTS IN ENGLAND OF MR. J. M. FARINA, 

GEGENUBER DEM JULICHS PLATZ, COLOGNE, 

FOR HIS 

CELEBRATED EAU DE COLOGNE. 





1870 


MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER, 


3 


MESSRS. J. AND R. MCCRACKEN’S 

PRINCIPAL CORRESPONDENTS. 


ALEXANDRIA. 

ALICANTE. 

ANCONA. . 

ANTWERP. 

ATHENS, PIRtEUS 

BADEN BADEN ... j 

BAD EMS. 

BAGNERES DE BI.-> 
GORRE (Hautes > 
Pyrenees).1 

BASLE.{ 

BERLIN. \ 


BERNE... 
BEYRQUT 
BOLOGNA 


BORDEAUX 


BOULOGNE S. M... 

CALAIS. 

CALCUTTA. 

CANNES. 

CARLSBAD. 

CARRARA. 

CATANIA . 

Cl VITA VECCHIA . 


COLOGNE. 

CONSTANCE. 

CONSTANTINOPLE 

COPENHAGEN. 

CORFU . 


DRESDEN 


FLORENCE 


j 


FRANKFORT 0. M. 

FRANZENSBAD.... 
GENEVA . 

GENOA.. 

GHENT. 

GIBRALTAR . 

HAMBURG . 

HAVRE . 

HEIDELBERG. 

HONFLEUR. 


Mr. P. R. Dahlander. 

Messrs. Moore, Mouellet, & Co. 

Messrs. F. Mack & Co. 

Messrs. Stuffer & Binder. Mr. F. Pelikan’s Successor, C. Kascu. 

Messrs. Mellerio Freres. Mr. H. Ullrich. 

Messrs. Becker ik Jung. Mr. H. W. Thiel. 

Mr. Leon Geruzet, Marble Works. 

MeSsrs. Jean Preiswerk & Fils. 

Mr. J. Frey. 

Messrs. Schickler Brothers. 

Mr. Lion M. Coiin, Comm re . Expediteur. 

Messrs. A. Bauer «fc Co. 

MM. Henry Hf.ald & Co. 

Messrs. Renoli, Buggio, & Co. Sig. L. Meni. 

Mr. Gremailly Fils Aine. 

Mr. Leon Geruzet, 44, Allees de Toumy. 

Messrs. Riviere & Co., Place du Palais, 4. 

Messrs. Mory & Co. Messrs. L. J. Vogue & Co. 

Messrs. L. J. Vogue & Co. 

Messrs. Gillanders, Arbutiinot, & Co. 

Mr. Taylor. 

Air. Thomas Wolf, Glass Manufacturer. 

Sig. F. Bienaime, Sculptor. 

Messrs. Jeans & Co. 

Messrs. Lowe Brothers, British Vice-Consulate. 

Mr. J. M. Farina, gegenuber dem Julichs Platz. 

Messrs; G«e. Tilmes & Co. 

Mr. Fred. Hoz. 

Mr. Alfred C. Laughton. Messrs. C. S. Hanson & Co. 

Messrs. H. J. Bing & Son. 

Mr. J. W. Taylor. 

Messrs. H. W. BaSsenc.e & Co. Mr. E. Arnold, Printseller. The 
Director of the Royal Porcelain Manufactory Depot. Mr. E. 
Richter, 4, Neumarkt. Messrs.; Seeger & Maeser. Madame 
Helena Wolfsohn, Schossergasse, No. 5. Mr. Moritz Meyer, 
Moritz Strasse. 

Messrs. French & Co. Sig. Luigi Ramacct. Messrs. EMMie. Fenzi 
& Co. Messrs. Maquay and Pakenham. Mr. E. Goodban. 
Messrs. Nesti, Ciakdi, & Co. Mr. Ant°. di Luigi Piacenti. 
Mr. T. Bianchini, Mosaic Worker. Messrs. P. Bazzanti & Fig., 
Sculptors, Lungo l’ Amo. Messrs. Eyre and Matteini. 

Mr. P. A. Tacchi’s Successor, Glass Manufacturer, Zeil D, 44. 
Messrs. Bing, Jun., & Co. Mr. F. Bohler, Zeil D, It. 

Messrs. Sachs and Hociiheimer, Wine Merchants. 

Mr. C. J. Hofmann. 

MM. Levrier & Pelissier. 

Messrs. Granet, Brovin, & Co. 

Messrs. G. Vignolo & Fig«. Mr. A. Mos3a, Croce di Maltc. 
Messrs. De Buyser Freres, Dealers in Antiquities, Marche au 
Beurre, No. 21. 

Messrs. Archbold, Johnston, & Powers. Messrs. Turner k Co* 
Messrs. J. P. Jensen & Co. Messrs. Schurmer & TeichJiann. 
Messrs. Louedin, Phre. Fils jeune, and G. Capron. 

Mr. Ph. Zimmermank. 

Mr. J. Wagner. 

B 2 


































4 


MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 


May, 


M e CRACKEN’S LIST OF CORRESPONDENTS— continued. 


INTERLACKEN.... Mr. J. Grossmann. Mr. A. Tremp. Mr. C. H. Schuh. 

JERUSALEM. Messrs. E. F. Spittler & Co. Mr. M. Behgheim, Jr. 

LAUSANNE. Mr. Dubois Renou, Fils. 

TFrwrvRM ( Messrs. Alex. Macbean & Co. Messrs. Maquay & Pakekham. 

. ( Messrs. Thomas Pate & Sons. Mr. M. Ristori. 

LEIPZIG. Mr. J. E. Oeulschlager’s Successor. 

LISBON. Mr. E. Bourgard. 

LUCERNE. Messrs. F. Knorr & Fils. 

MADRAS. Messrs. Binny & Co. 

MALAGA. Mr. George Hodgson. Mr. J. A. Mark. 

r Mr. Emanuel Zammit. Messrs. Josh. Darmanin & Sons, 45, Strada 

MALTA.^ Levante, Mosaic Workers. Mr. Fortunato Testa, 92, Strada Sta 

i Lucia. 

MANNHEIM . Messrs. Eyssen & Ceaus. 

MAR1ENBAD. Mr. J. T. Adler, Glass Manufacturer. 

MARSEILLES. Messrs. Claude Clero & Co. 

MAYENCE_... Mr. G. L. Kayser, Expediteur. 

MENTONE. Mr. Palmaro, Mr. Jean Orengo Fils. 

MESSINA. Messrs. Caterer, Walker, & Co. 

MTT AN f Mr. Buffet, Piazza di S. Sepolcro, No. 1. 

. \ Messrs. Fratelri Brambilla. Messrs. Ulrich & Co. 

MUNICH I Messrs. Wimmer & Co., Printsellers, Brienner Strasse, 3. Messrs. 

lviumion.^ Bleichf.r & Andreis. Messrs. Souindo & Scheuer. 

NAPTF «5 (Messrs. Iggulden & Co. Messrs. W. J. Turner A Co. Mr. G. 

0 . I Scala, Wine Merchant, 42, Via Concezione di Toledo. 

NEW YORK. Messrs. Austin, Baldwin, & Co. 

Yjpp (Messrs. A. Lacroix & Co., British Consulate. Messrs. M. A N. 

. l Giordan. Mr. II. Ullrich. M.M. Mignon Freres, 9,Rue Paradis. 

nttpitmkfrf I Mr. John Conrad Cnopf, Banker and Forwarding Agent. 

u 1 u . x Mr. A. PickerT, Dealer in Antiquities. Mr. Max Pickekt. 

OSTEND. Messrs. Bach & Co. Messrs. Mack and Co. 

PARIS. Mr. L. Chenue, Packer, Rue Croix Petits Champs, No. 24. 

PAU. Mr. J. Musgrave Clay. Mr. Bergerot. 

prc;A (Messrs. Puguet & Van Lint, Sculptors in Alabaster and Marble. 

. ( Mr. G. Andreoni. 

pp * p TT p ( Mr. W. Hofmann, Glass Manufacturer, Blauern Stem. 

1 u J .( Mr. A. V. Lebeda, Gun Maker. 

QUEBEC. Messrs. Forsyth & Pemberton. 

r Messrs. Plowden, Ciiolmeley, & Co. Messrs. Alex. Macbean & Co. 
Messrs. Freeborn & Co. Messrs. Maquay, Fakenham, & Hooker. 

ROME.... •' Messrs. Spada, Flamini, & Co. Messrs. Furse Bros. & Co. 

I Mr. Luigi Branching at the English College. Mr. J. P. Shea. 
I Messrs. Wf.lby, Bros. 

ROTTERDAM. Messrs. Preston & Co. Messrs. C. Hemmann & Co. 

SANREMO. MM. Asquasciati Freres. 

SCHAFFHAUSEN .. Mr. Fred Hoz. 

SEVILLE. Mr. Julian B. Williams, British Vice-Consulate. M. J. A. Bailly. 

SMYRNA. Messrs. Hanson & Co. 

ST. PETERSBURG . Messrs. Thomson, Bonar, & Co. Mr. C. Kruger. 

THOUNE. Mr. J. Kehrli-Stekchi. Mr. N. Buzberger. 

TRIESTE. Messrs. Moore & Co. 

TURIN. Messrs. J. A. Lachaise & Ferrero, Rue de l’Arsenal, No. 4. 

i Mr. L. Bovardi, Campo S. Fantino, No. 2000, rosso. 

VENICE. \ Messrs. Freres Schif.lin. Mr. Antonio Zen. Mr. C. Ponti. 

I Messrs. S. & A. Blumentiial & Co. 

VEVEY. Mr. Jules Getaz Fils. 

vtf.ntni a I Mr. H. Ullrich, Glass Manufacturer, am Lugeck, No. 3. 

I Messrs. J. & L. Lobmeyer, Glass Manufacturers, 940, Kamthner 

VOLTERRA . Sig. Ott°. Solaini. TStrasse 

WALDSHUTT. Mr. Fred. Hoz. 

ZURICH. Mr. Honegger-Fugli. 










































1870. 


MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 


FLORENCE. 


TELEMACO DI G. BIANCHINI, 

MANUFACTURER OF TABLES AND LADIES’ ORNAMENTS 
OF FLORENTINE MOSAIC, 

LUNG’ ARNO NUOVO, 1, AND BORG’ OGNISSANTI, 2, 

TNVITES the English Nobility and Gentry to visit his Establishment, where 
may always be seen numerous specimens of this celebrated and beautiful 
Manufacture, in every description of Rare and Precious Stones. Orders for Tables 
and other Ornaments executed to any Design. 

T. Bianchini’s Correspondents in England are Messrs. J. & R, M‘Cracken, 
38, Queen Street, Cannon Street, E.C., London. 


BRIENZ —INTERLAOKEN. . 

J. GROSSMANN, 

SCULPTOR IN WOOD, AND MANUFACTURER OF SWISS 
WOOD MODELS AND ORNAMENTS, 

AT mTEEMCSEW. 

TT1S WAREHOUSE is situated between the Belvedere Hotel and Schweizerhof, 
where he keeps the largest and best assortment of the above objects to be 
found in Switzerland. He undertakes to forward Goods to England and elsewhere. 

Correspondents in England, Messrs. J. & R. McCracken, 38, Queen Street, 
Cannon Street, E.C., London.- 


PISA. 

giusepptTandreoni, 

Sculptor in Alabaster and Objects of Fine Art, 

NO. 872, VIA SANTA MARIA, 

WHERE 

A GREAT ASSORTMENT OF FINE ARTS, SCULPTURE, Ac., 

CAN BE SEEN. 

Correspondents in England, Messrs. .1. & R. M‘CraC'KEN, 38. Queen Street, 

Cannon Street, E.C., London. 












MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER, 


Mav, 


(5 


■ ■ » 

JEAN KEHRLI-STERCHI, 

Sculptor iit Moob, 

AND 

MANUFACTURER OF SWISS MODELS AND ORNAMENTS, 

For 20 years at the Woodwork Establishment at the Giessbach Falls, 
eldest son of the founder of said establishment, 

I NVITES the attention of English tourists to his Establishment at the Bellevue 
Hotel, Thun, where a choice assortment of Swiss Wood Carvings may always 
be seen. 

Correspondents in England, Messrs, .T. & R. M‘CRACKEN, 38, Queen Street, 
Cannon Street, London. 


MUNICH. 


WIMMER & CO., 

GALLERY OF FINE ARTS. 

3, BRIENNER STREET, 

Invite 11 it* Nobility and Gentry to visit their Gallery of Fine Arts,, containing 

an Extensive Collection of 

MODERN PAINTINGS 

by the best Munich Artists, 

E* A S IV ' 8 ' 2 IV C* & ON PORCELAIN AN® O IV OLAKI 9 , 

also a large Assortment of 

PHOTOGRAPHS, 

including the complete Collections of the various Public Galleries. 

Correspondents in England, Messis. J. & R. M'Cracken, 38, Queen Street, 
Cannon Street, E.C., London. 

Correspondents in the United States, Messrs, Keller & Lingo, 97, Reade 
Street, New York. 







1870 


MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER 


7 


FRANKFORT. 


P. A. TACCHI’S SUCCESSOR, 

5KEI1L, Xo. 4 A, 

BOHEMIA! FAMCY BJLAgi AMB C1YOTAE 

WAlEHOUJEEo 


A,x/u>A»uvAAy\n/wvvwKWV 

P, A. TACCHI’S SUCCESSOR, Manufacturer of Bohemian 
Glass, begs to acquaint the Public that he has always an extensive 
Assortment in the Newest and most Elegant Designs of 

ORNAMENTAL CUT, ENGRAVED, GILT, & PAINTED GLASS, 

BOTH WHITE AND COLOURED, 

In Dessert Services, Chandeliers, Candelabras, Articles for the Table 
and Toilet, and every possible variety of objects in this beautiful 
branch of manufacture. He solicits, and will endeavour to merit, a 
continuance of the favours of the Public, which he lias enjoyed in 
so high a degree during a considerable number of years, 

P. A. Tacchi’s Successor has a Branch Establishment during the 
Summer Season at 

WIESBADEN, in the Old Colonnade, No. 1, 

OPPOSITE THE THEATRE, 

Where will always be found an extensive Selection of the newest 
Articles from his Frankfort Establishment. 

Visitors to Frankfort should not fail to pay a visit to the Show 
Rooms of Mr. P. A. Tacchi’s Successor. 

His Correspondents in England, to whom he undertakes to forward 
Purchases made of him, are Messrs. J. & R. M‘Cracken, 38, Queen 
Street, Cannon Street, E.C., London ; and Mr. Louis Henlk, 3, Budge 
Row, Cannon Street, London, E.C. 





S MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, 

COLOGNE ON THE RHINE. 

JOHANN MARIA FARINA, 
GEGENUBER DEM JULICH’S PLATZ 

(Opposite the Jiilich’s Place), 

PURVEYOR TO H. M. QUEEN VICTORIA; 

TO H. R. H. THE PRINCE OF WALES; 

TO H. M. THE KING OF PRUSSIA; THE EMPEROR OF RUSSIA; 

THE EMPEROR OF FRANCE; 

THE KING OF DENMARK, ETC. ETC., 

OF THE 

ONLY GENUINE EAU DE COLOGNE, 

Which obtained the only Prize Medal awarded to Eau de Cologne at the Paris Exhibition 

of ls67. 


fFHE frequency of mistakes, which are sometimes accidental, but for the most 
-i part the result of deception practised by inierested individuals, induces me to request 
the attention of English travellers to the following statement:— 

The favourable reputation which my Eau de Cologne has acquired, since its invention by 
my ancestor in the year 1709, has induced many people to imitate it;, and in order to be able 
to sell their spurious article more easily, and under pretext that it was genuine, they pro¬ 
cured themselves a firm of Farina, by entering into partnership with persons of my name, 
which is a very common one in Italy. 

Persons who wish to purchase the genuine and original Eau de Cologne ought to be parti¬ 
cular to see that J;he labels and the bottles have not only my name, Johann Maria Farina, 
but also the additional words, gegeniiber dem Julich’s Platz (that is, opposite the Julich’s 
Place), without addition of any number. 

Travellers visiting Cologne, and intending to buy my genuinq article, are cautioned against 
being led astray by cabmen, guides, commissioners, and other parties, who offer their services 
to them. I therefore beg to state that my manufacture and shop are in the same house, 
situated opposite the Julich’s Place, and nowhere else. It happens too, frequently, that the 
said persons conduct the uninstructed strangers to shops of one of the fictitious firms, where, 
notwithstanding assertion to the contrary, they are remunerated with nearly the half part of 
the price paid by the purchaser, who, of con se, must pay indirectly this remuneration by a 
high price and a bad article. 

Another kind of imposition is practised in almost every hotel in Cologne, where waiters 
commissioners, &c., offer to strangers Eau de Cologne, pretending that it is the genuine one 
and that 1 delivered it to them for the purpose of selling it for my account. 

The only certain way to get in Cologne my genuine article is to buy it personally at my 
house, opposite the Julich’s Place, forming the corner of the two streets, Unter Goldschmidt 
and Oben Marspforten, No. 23, and having in the front six balconies, of "which the three 
bear my name and firm, Johann Maria Farina, Gegeniiber dem Julich’s Platz. 

The excellence of my manufacture has been put beyond all doubt by the fact that the 
Jurors of the Great Exhibitions in London, 1851 and 1862, awarded to me the Prize Medal; 
that I obtained honourable mention at the Great Exhibition in Paris, 1855; and received 
the only Prize Medal awarded to Eau de Cologne at the Paris Exhibition of 1867, and in 
Oporto 1865. 

Cologne, January, 1869. JOHANN MARIA FARINA, 

GEGENUBER DEM JULICH’S PLATZ. 

%* My Agency in London is at Messrs. J. & R. M‘Cracken, 38, Queen 

Street , Cannon Street, E.C, 



1870 


MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER, 


9 


PRAGUE. 


WILLIAM HOFMANN, 

BOHEMIAN GLASS MANUFACTURER, 

TO HIS MAJESTY THE EMPEROR OF AUSTRIA, 

HOTEL BLUE STAR, 

Recommends his great assortment of Glass Ware, from his own Manufactories in 
Bohemia. The choicest Articles in every Colour, Shape, and Description, are sold, 
at the same moderate prices, at his Establishments. 

Correspondents in London, Messrs. J. and R. M‘CI\ACKEN, 38, Queen Street, 
Cannon Street, E.C. Goods forwarded direct to England, America , <fc. 


FLORENCE. 


JOHN AGILIETTI AND SONS, 

ARTISTS, 

GROUND FLOOR, No. 15, VIA MAGGIO, 

Have a large Collection of Ancient and Modern Original Paintings, and also Copies 
from the most celebrated Masters. 

Copies, Carved Frames, Gilt or Plain, made to order, and forwarded with 
despatch to all parts of the world. 

Correspondents in England, Messrs. J. and R. M‘CRACKEN, of No. 38, Queen 
Street, Cannon Street, E.C., London. 


VIENNA. 


The most extensive Warehouse for Bohemian White and Coloured 

Crystal Glass. 

J. & L. LOBMEYR, 

GLASS MANUFACTURERS, 

No. 13, KARNTHNERSTRASSE. 

All kinds of Bohemian White and Coloured Crystal Glass; Table, Dessert, and 
other Services; Vases, Candelabras,Chandeliers, Looking-glasses; Articles of Luxury, 
in Crystal Glass, mounted in Bronze, and in Carved Wood. They obtained the 
Prize Medal at the International Exhibitions of 1862 and 1867. 

The prices are fixed at very moderate and reasonable charges.—The English 
language is spoken. 

Their Correspondents in England, Messrs. J. and R. M‘Cracken, No. 38, 
Queen Street, Cannon Street, E.C., London, will transmit all orders with the 
greatest care and attention. 













10 


MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER 


May, 


FLORENCE. 


MESSRS, COSTA & CONTI, 

ARTISTS, 

No. 8, VIA ROMANA, 

Opposite the Museum of Natural History ( Specola ), and near the Pitti Gallery. 

Messrs. Costa and Conti keep the largest collection in Florence of original 
Ancient and Modern Pictures, as well as Copies of all the most celebrated Masters. 

N.B.—English spoken. 

Correspondents in England, Messrs. J. and R. M‘CRACKEN, 38, Queen Street, 
Cannon Street, E.C., London. 


BORDEAUX. 

HOTEL DES PRINCES ET DE LA PAIX. 

GREMAILLY FILS AINE, Proprietor. 

This is an Hotel of the first rank, in the centre of the town, facing the Grand 
Theatre and the Prefecture. 

Excellent Table-d’hote at Six. Restaurant and Private Dinners at moderate 
prices. The Times newspaper. 

Correspondents in London—Messrs. J. & R. McCracken, 38, Queen Street, 
Cannon Street, E.C. 

N.B.—The various types of the Medoc Wines may be tasted in this Hotel. 


VENICE. 

-K>«- 

CARLO PONTI, 

OPTICIAN AND PHOTOGRAPHER, 

Who gained the Prize Medal at the International Exhibition of 1862, and whose 
House is acknowledged to be the first of the kind in the City, is the Inventor of 
the Optical Instrument known under the name 

MEGALETOSCOPE, 

' first called Aletoscope), the most perfect instrument for magnifying photographs 
and showing them with the effects of night and day. His 

ISOPERISCOPIC SPECTACLES 

gained Medals at the Exhibitions of Paris and Padua, and were pronounced by the 
scientific bodies to be superior in principle to all others, as well as being more 
moderate in price. 

His Photographic Establishment is in the Piazza San Marco, No. 52. near the Cafe 
Florian; and his Optical Establishment at Riva dei Schiavoni, No. 4180, near the 
Albergo Reale. 

Correspondents in London, Messrs. J. and R. M‘Cracken, 38, Queen Street. 
Cannon Street, E.G» 

















1 1870 . 


MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 


11 


EIX GHE LBER Gr. 

*— 

HOTEL ET PENSION TITUS. 

I CATLAIN, Proprietor, 

I HPHIS new Hotel is fitted out with every comfort; containing 
-L 80 Beds, Ladies’ Sitting-room, Heading, Billiard, and Smoking- 
rooms. English, French, and German Newspapers. English Services 
every Sunday. 

The best starting-place for ascending Mount Titlis (18 miles); good 
guides, tariff 10 francs ; the same as at Engstlen (see Berlepsch). Very 
| nice excursions on the glaciers of Uri-Eothstock, Schlossberg, and 
Grassen, 


HOTEL ET PENSION DE L’ANGE, 

BELONGING TO THE SAME PROPRIETOR. 

Excellent Second-class Hotel. Clean and well-furnished Booms 

at moderate prices. Warm and Cold Baths. 


MR. TENNANT, GEOLOGIST, 149, STKAND, LONDON, 

1"JL W.C., gives practical instruction in Mineralogy and Geology. He can also supply 
Elementary Collections of Minerals, Rocks, and Fossils, on tire following terms:— 

100 Small Specimens, in cabinet, with three ti’ays.£2 2 0 

*200 Specimens, larger, in cabinet, with five trays. 5 5 0 

300 Specimens, larger, in cabinet, with eight drawers . . . . 10 10 0 

400 Specimens, largei’, in cabinet, with twelve drawers . . . . 21 0 0 

More extensive collections, to illustrate Geology, at 50 to 100 Guineas each, with every 
requisite to assist those commencing the study of this interesting science, a knowledge of 
which affords so much pleasure to the traveller in ajl parts of the world. 

* A collection for Five Guineas which will illustrate the recent works on Geology by 
I Ansted, Jukes, Lyell, Murchison, Page, Phillips, and contains 200 Specimens, in a cabinet, 
with five trays, comprising the following, viz.:— 

( Minerals which are either the components of Rocks, or occasionally imbedded in them :— 
Quartz, Agate, Chalcedony, Jasper, Garnet, Zeolite, Hornblende, Augite, Asbestus, Felspar, 
Mica, Talc, Tourmaline, Calcareous Spar, Fluor, Selenite, Baryta, Stroutia, Salt, Cryolite, 

I Sulphur, Plumbago, Bitumen, Jet, &c. 

.Native Metals or Metalliferous Minerals: these are found in masses, in beds, or in 
l veins, and occasionally in the beds of rivers. Specimens of the following are contained in 
) the Cabinet:—Iron, Manganese, Lead, TiD, Zinc, Copper, Antimony, Silver, Gold, Piatina,&c. 
Rocks: —Granite,Gneiss, Mica-slate, Porphyry .Serpentine,Sandstones,Limestones,Lavas, .'fee. 
Palaeozoic Fossils, from the Llaudeilo, Wenlock, Ludlow, Devonian, and Carboniferousltocks, 
Secondary Fossils, from the Trias, Lias, Oolite, Wealden, and Cretaceous Groups. 
Tertiary Fossils, from the Woolwich, Barton, and Bracklesham Beds, London Clay,Crag, &c. 
In the more expensive Collections some of the Specimens are rare, and all more select. 

ELEMENTARY LECTURES ON MINERALOGY AND GEOLOGY, 

adapted to young persons, are given by J. TENNANT, F.R.G.S., at his residence, 149, 
STRAND, W.C., and Private Instruction to Travellers, Engineers, Emigrants, Landed 
Proprietors, and others, illustrated by an extensive collection of Specimens, Diagrams, 
Models, &c. 

All the recent works relating to Mineralogy, Geology, Conchology, and Chemistry; also 
Geological Maps, Models, Diagrams, Hammers, Blowpipes, Magnifying Glasses, Platina Spoons, 
Electrometer and Magnetic Needle, Glass-top Boxes, Microscopic Objects, Acid Bottles, &c., 
can be supplied to the Student in these interesting and important branches of Science. 













12 


MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 


May, 


VISITORS TO THE CONTINENT. 

OLIYIER Sc C O.. 
37, Finsbury Square, London, 

(Mr. Olivier established in 183.0,) 

COMMISSION MERCHANTS AND GENERAL AGENTS 

For Shipment and Reception of Goods to and from all Parts of the World , 

and IMPORTERS OF WINES, $c. 

/VLTVIER & CO. have the honour to inform 

J VISITORS TO THE CONTINENT 

that, they undertake to receive and pass through the Customhouse in London, 

Liverpool, Southampton, &c., 

WORKS of ART, BAGGAGE, and PROPERTY of EVERY DESCRIPTION, 

which are attended to on arrival 

witli the utmost Care in Examination and Removal, 

under their own personal superintendence. They beg to call particular attention to 

their Moderate Charges, 

which have given universal satisfaction. 

Many Travellers having expressed a desire to know in anticipation to what 
expenses their Purchases are liable on arrival in England, the following 

Rates of Charges on the Reception of Packages 

may be relied upon, for Landing from the Ship, Clearing, Delivery in London, 
and Agency:— 

On Trunks of Baggage.about 9s. each. 

On Cases of Works of Art, &c., of moderate size and value . about 15s. „ 

„ ,, „ of larger „ „ 20s. to 25s. ,, 

On very large Cases of valuable Statuary, Pictures, &c., on which an estimate 
cannot well be given, the charges will depend on the care and trouble required. 
When several cases are sent together the charges are less on each case. 

OLIVIER & CO. undertake the 
FORWARDING OF PACKAGES OF EVERY KIND 

to the Continent, to the care of their Correspondents, where they can remain, if 
required, until the arrival of the owners. 

Also 

THE EXECUTION OF ORDERS FOR THE PURCHASE OF GOODS 

of all kinds, which, from their long experience as Commission Merchants, they 
are enabled to buy on the most advantageous terms. 

Residents on the Continent will find this a convenient means of ordering any¬ 
thing they may require from London. 

N.B.—The keys of locked Packages should always be sent to Olivier & Co., 
as everything, although free of duty, must be examined by the Customs on arrival! 

INSURANCES EFFECTED, and Agency Business of every description 

attended to. 






187*0 


MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER, 


13 


OLIVIER 

At Aix-la-Chapelle 


& 


»» 
9 9 
I 9 


le 


CO.’S principal Correspondents arc— 

. Messrs. A. SOUHEUR and CO. 

. Mr. J. W. BROWNE. 

. Mr. F. VERELLEN BEERNAER1. 

Messrs. VLEUGELS and CO. 

. Mr. J. J. FREY. 

. Messrs. ANTONIO MAZZETTI and CO. 

. Messrs. H. and 0. BEYERMAN and CO., Wine Growers. 

(Messrs. L. BRANLY and CO., 81, Rue Napoleon. 

' (Messrs. L. I. VOGUE and Co. 

. Mr. G. LUYCKX, 24, Rue des Fabriques. 

Mr. L. STEIN, 22, Montague de la Cour. 

. Messrs. L. I. VOGUE and CO. 

. Messrs. 0. H. VAN ZUTI'HEN and CO. 

Messrs. G. TILMES and CO. 

. Messrs. VALSAMACHY and CO., Galata 
. Messrs. KRAETSCHMER and CO. 

. Messrs. HASKARD and SON, 4, Borgo SS. Apostoli. 

Messrs. W. H. WOOD and CO. 

. Mr. MARTIN BECKER, 5, Bleidenstrasse. 

Mr. MORITZ B. GOLDSCHMIDT, Banker. 

. Messrs. JOLIMAY and CO. 

. Messrs. G. B. PRATOLONGO and CO. 

Messrs. P. CAUVIN, D1 AM ANTI, and COSTA. 

, Messrs. JULIUS WUSTENFELD and CO. 

, Messrs. CHR. EGLIN and MARING. 

Messrs. RITSCHARD and BURKI. 

. Messrs. GERHARD and HEY. 

. Messrs. HENDERSON BROTHERS. 

. Messrs. ROSE & CO. 

Messrs. GIRAUD FRERES. 

Messrs. HORACE BOUCHET and CO. 

. Messrs. GIO. CURT! & FIG”. 

. Messrs. GUTLEBEN and WEIDERT. 

( Mr. G. CIVALLERI, 267, Riviera di Ckiaja. 

' ( Messrs. CERULLI &CO., 5,|Vico Satriano ii Cliiuia. j le Port. 
Messrs. LES FILS DE CH. GIORDAN, Quai Lunel, 14 (sur 
Mr. J. DUCLOS ASSANDRI. [Martin, 43. 

. Messrs. LANGLOIS FILS FRERES, Rue des Marais St. 

M. HECTOR L’HERBIER, 18, Rue de la Douane. 

. Mr. BEllGEROT. 

Mr. J. J. SEIDL, Hibernergasse, No. 1000. 

. Mr. J. P. SHEA, 11, Piazza di Spagna. 

Mr. A. TOMBINJ, 23, Place St. Louis des Frainjais. 

Mr. J. A. HOUWENS; Messrs. P. A. VAN ES and CO. 
Messrs. MARTIN FRERES. 

Mr. CHIABODO PIETRO, Via Dora Grossa, 13. 

Mr. HENRY DECOPPET. Mr. F c ° TO LOME I DI F™ ‘ 
Mr. ANTON POKORNY, Stadt Sonnenfelsgasse, 2. 

Any other houses will also forward goods to 0. & C. on receiving instructions 
to do so. Travellers are requested always to give particular directions that their 
Packages are consigned direct to OLIVIER &CO., 37, FINSBURY SQUARE. 


Alexandria 
Antwerp . 

Basle . . 

Bologna . 
Bordeaux 

Boulogne . 

Brussels . 

Calais 
Cologne . 

Constantino 
Dresden . 
Florence . 

, Frankfort 

Geneva . 

, Genoa 

Hamburg 

Havre 

Interlacken 

Leipzig . 

Leghorn . 

Malta 

Marseilles 

Milan . . 

Munich . 

Naples 

Nice . . 

Ostend . 
Paris. . 


Pau . 
Prague 
Rome . 


Rotterdam 
Trieste 
Turin 
Venice 
Vienna . 


PRICES OF 


WINES 


IMPORTED BY 


OLIVIER AND CO., 


AGENTS TO GROWERS. 

—o— per doz. duty paid. 

Claret, Shipped by F. Beyerman, Bordeaux.18s., 24s., 30s., 36s., to 120s. 

Burgundy ,, Dumoulin aine, Savigny-sous-Beaune . 24s., 28s., 36s., to 84s. 

Hock Moselle, Jodocius Frcre3 & Co., Coblentz . . 24s. t 30s., 36s., to 120s. 

„ Sparkling, ,, . . 48s. to 60s. 

Champagne . 48s. to 72s. 

Marsala, in Qr. Casks, from jfc'11 ; Ilhds. .£21 .... 26s. to 30s. 


Sherries, Pale, Gold, or Brown, in Qr. Casks, £15 to £35, delivered 42s. to 60s. 

Claret, Burgundy, and Hock, in the Wood, at Growers’ Prices. 

Detailed Price Lists mag be had of O. & Co., 37, Finsbury Square. 















14 - 


May, 


MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 

VISITORS TO THE CONTINENT. 

CHARLES CARR & CO., 

14, BISHOPSGATE STREET WITHIN, LONDON, E.C. 

(Mr. CARE, late of the Firm of OLIVIER Sf CARR), 

COMMISSION MERCHANTS, 

Agents for Shipment and Reception of Goods to and from all 

Parts of the World, 

AND 

WINE MERCHANTS. 

AH ARLES CARR & CO. have the honour to inform 

- VISITORS TO THE CONTINENT, 

that they undertake to receive and pass through the Custom House 

WORKS of Art, BAGGAGE, and PROPERTY of EVERY DESCRIPTION; 

which are attended to on arrival 

with the utmost Care in Examination and Removal, 

under their Personal Superintendence, and at 
very Moderate Charges, 
of which the following may be taken as a guide :— 

Landing from the Ship, Clearing, Delivery in London, and Agency— 

On Trunks of Baggage .about 9s. each. 

On Cases of Works of Art, of moderate size and value • about 15s. 

On Large and Valuable Cases, according to care and trouble required. 

On several Cases sent together, the charges are less on each. 

CHARLES CARR & CO. undertake the 

POEWAEDING OP PACKAGES OP EYEEY KIND 

to the care of their Correspondents, where they can remain, if required, until the 

arrival of the owners. Also 

THE EXECUTION of OEDEES for the PUEOHASE of GOODS, 

which from their knowledge of all the markets they are enabled to buy on the 

most advantageous terms. 

N.B.—Keys of all locked Packages should always be sent, as everything, 
although free of duty, must be examined by the Customs on arrival. 

INSURANCES EFFECTED, AND AGENCY BUSINESS OF EVERY 
DESCRIPTION ATTENDED TO. 

Mr. C. CARR having had many years’ experience in all the above branches of 
business, can with confidence assure those who will kindly favour him with their 
support, that their interests will be well cared for in the hands of his firm. 






1870 


MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER 


15 


( HAS. CARR 

At Aix-la-Chapelle 
„ Antwerp 
„ Basle . 

„ Berlin 
„ Bologna 
„ Bordeaux 
„ Boulogne 
„ Brussels 
„ Calais . 

„ Cologne 
„ Dresden 
„ Florence 
„ Frankfort 
„ Geneva 
„ Genoa . 

„ Hamburg 
„ Havre . 

„ Interlocked 
„ Leipzig 
„ Leghorn 
„ Malta . 

„ Marseil es 
„ Milan . 

„ Mu n ich 
„ Naples 
„ Nice 
„ Ostend 
„ Fan's . 

„ Fau . 

„ Prague 
„ Borne . 

„ Rotterdam 
„ Turin . 

„ Venice . 


Vienna 


& CO.’s principal Correspondents arc— 

. Messrs. A. SOUHEUR and CO. 

. Messrs. VLEUGELS and CO. 

. Mr. J. WILD, 12, Steinenthorstrasse. 

. Mr. F. A. FISCHER. 

. Messrs. ANTON 10 MAZZETTI and 00. 

. Messrs. ALBRECHT et FILS. 

Messrs. L. BRANLY and CO., 81, Rue Napoleon. 

Mr. G. LUYCKX, 24, Rue des Fabriques. 

. Messrs. L. J. VOGUE and CO. 

. Messrs. C. H. VAN ZUTPHEN and CO. 

. Mr. R. WEIGAND; Messrs. SCHEFFLER, SIEG, k. CO. 
Messrs. IIASlvARD and SON, 4, Borgo SS. Apostoli. 

Mr. MARTIN BECKER, 5, Bleidenstrasse. 

. Messrs. JOLIMAY and CO.; Mr. The. STRASSE. 

Messrs. D. and E. MOLO and CO.; Mr. J. WILD. 

. Messrs. HOFMKI9TER, SCHEFFLER, and SIEG. 

. Messrs. CHR. EGLIN and MAR1NG. 

. Messrs. RITSCHARD and BURKI. 

. Messrs. GERHARD and HEY. 

. Messrs. J. THOMSON HENDERSON and CO. 

Messrs. ROSE and CO^ 

Messrs. GIRAUD FKERES. 

Messrs. G. BONO and CO., 8, Via Agnello. 

. Messrs.GUTLEBEN and VVEIDERT. 

. Messrs. CERULLI and CO.; Mr. G. CIVALLERI. 

. Messrs. M. and N. GIORDAN, Quai Lunel, 14 (sur le Foil) 
. Mr. J. DUCLOS ASS AN DR I. 

Messrs. J. ARTHUR and CO., 10, Rue Castiglionc. 

M. HECTOR L’HERBIER, IS, Rue de la Douanc. 

. Mr. BERG E ROT. 

. Mr. J. J. SEIDL, Hiberuergasse, No. 1000. 

. Mr. J. P. SHEA. 11, Piazza di Spagna; Mr. A. TOMBINI. 

Mr. J. A. HOUWENS; Messrs. P. A. VAN ES and CO. 

. Mr. C. A. RATTI. 

. Mr. GAETANO PIETROBONI. 

Mr. F«> TOLOMEI DI Fco 

Mr. ANTON POKORNY, Stadt Sonnenfelsgasse 2. 


Any other houses will also forward goods to C. C. & Co., on receiving instructions to do so. 
Travellers are requested always to give particular directions that their Packages are consigned 
direct to CHAS. CARR & CO, 14, Bishopsgate Street Within, London, E.C. 


CHAS. CABS, & CO 


beg to call attention to their 

W INE8 


IMPORTED BY THEMSELVES DIRECT FROM THE GROWERS. 


CLARET— Bas Mcdoc. 



Per doz. 

These Wines at 

Medoc, &c.. 



18s. and 2Is. 

Reduced Prices by 

JVlargaux, St. Estephe, &c. 



30s. to 36s. 

the purchase of a 

St. J ulien, Chateau Poujeaux 



42s. 

half Hhd., 12 doz. 

St. Emilion, 1865 .... 



48s. 


Pontet Canet Pauillac, 1862 . 



54s. 


Chateau La Rose .... 



60s. 


Chateau Leoville, 1858 . . 



72s. 


Choice Old Vintage Wines, . 



84 s. to 126S. 


BURGUNDY— Beaune. 





Volnay. 



36s. to 54s. 


Superior qualities . 



60s. and upwards. 

Chablis. 



30s. to 54s. 


HOCK and MOSELLE .... 





SPARKLING do. .... 



42s. to 54s. 


CHAMPAGNE . 




J 

PORT-Excellent Wines. 





Fine Old Vintage Wines . . . 



84s. to 126s. 


SHERRY . 





MARSALA . * bs - t0 

and OTHER WINES. 



Detailed Price Lists may be had at C- C. & Co.’s Office. 























16 


MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, 


ROME. 


J. P. SHEA, 

ENGLISH HOUSE-AGENT, 

FORWARDING AGENT 
TO H.R.H. THE PRINCE OF WALES, 

11, PIAZZA DI SPAGNA. 

At this Office persons applying for 

Large or Small Furnished Apartments 

invariably obtain correct and unbiassed information on all matters connected with 

Lodging-Houses, Boarding-Houses, 

and 

Household Management, 

while 

Low and Fixed Charges 

for practical services offer safe and satisfactory assistance to Proprietor and Tenant, 
as testified by the increasing confidence of English and American Travellers 
since the opening of the establishment in 1852. 

Plans and Lists of Apartments sent by Post 

to persons who wish to secure accommodation, or avoid inconvenience at the 
approach of Carnival or the Holy Week. 

AS CUSTOM-HOUSE AGENT, 

Mr. Shea clears and warehouses 

Baggage and other effects 

for travellers who, to avoid the expense of quick transit, send their things by sea or 

luggage-train, directed to his care. 

He also superintends the 

Packing of Works of Art and other Property 

intrusted to his care, and the forwarding of the same to England, &c.; and being 
Agent for Messrs. Burns and Melvers’ Italian line of steamers, can offer 
'facilities on the freight of packages between Italy and England. 


CORRESPONDENTS- 

LONDON.Messrs. J. ft R. M'CRACKEN, 38, Queen Street* Cannon Street, X.C. 

Messrs. CHAS. CARR & CO„ 14, Bishops gate Street Within. 

BOULOGNE S.M.Mr. BERNARD, 18, Quai des Paquebots. 

PARIS .Messrs. L HERBEITE, KANE, ft CO., 8, Place de la Bourse. 

MARSEILLES .Messrs. G1RAUD FEE RES, 44, Rue Salute. 

FLORENCE .Messrs. I1ASKARD & SON. 

NEW YORK .Messrs. AUSTIN, BALDWIN, & CO., 12, Broadway. 

BOSTON.Messrs. WELLS, FARGO, & CO. 















1870 . 


MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 


17 


CHUBB’S LOCKS and SAFES. 

-»< >• — 

* 

Paris Exhibition, 1867, SILVER PRIZE MEDAL. 

Dublin International Exhibition, 1865, PRIZE MEDAL AWARDED. 

- - - 

CHUBB & SON, 

BY APPOINTMENTS, 

MAKERS TO THE QUEEN, AND TO H.R.H. THE PRINCE OF WALES. 


pHUBB’S PATENT DETECTOR LOCKS, the most secure from 

\J picklocks and false keys, are strong, simple, and durable, and made of all sizes and for 
every purpose to which a Lock can be applied. 

Trunks, Portmanteaus, Travelling Bags, Dressing Cases, Writing Desks, &c., fitted with 
only the usual common and utterly insecure Locks, can have the place of these supplied by 
Chubb’s Patent without alteration or injury. 

Travellers’ Lock-Protectors and Portable Scutcheon Locks for securing Doors that 
may be found fastened only by common Locks. 

CHUBB & SON have always in stock a variety of Writing and Despatch Boxes in 
Morocco or Russia Leather and japanned Tin; the latter being particularly recommended 
for lightness, room, durability, and freedom from damage by insects or hot climates. 

Best Black Enamelled Leather Travelling 1 Bags of various sizes, all with 
Chubb’s Patent Locks. Cash, Deed, and Paper Boxes of all dimensions. 



pHUBB’S PATENT SAFES 

\J are constructed in the very best 
manner, of the strongest wrought iron, 
fitted with Chubb’s Patent Drill-pre¬ 
ventive and their Gunpowder-proof 
Steel-plated Locks, are the most 
secure from fire and burglary, and form 
the most complete safeguard for Books, 
Papers, Deeds, Jewels, Plate, and other 
valuable property. 

CHUBB & SON have also strong 
wrought-iron Safes , without fire-resisting 
lining, bnt equally secure in all other 
respects, intended for holding plate where 
protection from fire is not an object, and 

___ affording much more room inside than 

IL-"" _ aa ® the Patent Safes. They are recom¬ 

mended specially in place oi the ordinary wooden cases for plate, which may so easily be 
broken open. - 

pUENOS AYRES GOVERNMENT CERTIFICATE. 

I) Translation. 

We, the undersigned, at the request of Messrs. Jas. C. Thompson & Co., certify that the 
Iron Safes of Messrs. Chubb & Son, London, of which these gentleman are Agents, were 
exposed for several hours to the Fire that took place in the offices of the National Govern¬ 
ment on the evening of the 26th instant; that in our presence they were easily opened with 
Iheir respective keys: that the moneys and important documents they contained were found 
in perfect order, and that these Safes are now in use iu the National Treasury Office.—Buenos 
Ayres 31 st July, 1867. 

(Signed) J. M. Drago, Treasurer of the National Government. 

Jose Tomas Rojo. 

Juan M. Alvarez. a true copy—A. M. Bell. 


Complete Illustrated Priced Lists of Chubb’s Locks, Boxes, Safes, and other Manufactures, 

gratis and post-free. 


CHUBB and SON, Makers to the Bank of England, 

57, St. Paul's Churchyard, London, E.C. 

c 





























































































18 


MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 


May, 


RAGAZ LES BAINS, 


Oanton de St. Gall. 


HOTEL TAMINA PENSION FOR FAMILIES. 


This First-class Hotel is recommended to all English and 
American Families for its great comfort. 

Hot and Cold Baths and Mineral Waters in the Hotel. 

It is very well situated for all kinds of Excursions. 

Pension from 15th September to 1st June. 

For information, and to engage rooms, apply to Mr. Jakle, 
Directeur of the Hotel. 


LAKE OF COMO, BELLAGIO. 
GHE.A.T BRITAIN HOTEL. 


Proprietor: A. MELLA. 

ABGE and Small Apartments, Beading, Billiard, and 



AJ Smoking Rooms, Baths in the Hotel and on the Lake. Divine Service 
according to the Established Church throughout the year. This Hotel is beauti¬ 
fully situated, enjoying at once a full and splendid view of the Lake and of the 
villas Melzi, Sei belloni, and Sommariva. 

The Hotel, having been recently enlarged, will afford every possible comfort to 
strangers during their stay on the Lake. Telegraph office in the Hotel. 


GENEVA. 


HOTEL DU LAC 


Splendid view on the Lake and the Mountains ; opposite the 
Steamers. Especially recommended to families. Very reason¬ 
able prices. 


TABLE D’HOTE AT 12, 5, and 7 O’CLOCK. 

II. SPAHLINGER, Proprietor 


MAYENCE, 


HOTEL D’ANGLETERRE. 


HENRY SPECHT, Wine Merchant and Grower. 


This first-rate and excellent Hotel (combining every English comfort), situated 
in front of the Bridge, is the nearest Hotel to the Steamboats and close to the 
Railway Stations. From its Balconies and Rooms are Picturesque Views of the 
Rhine and Mountains. Galignani , Times, and Illustrated Nev~s taken in. The 
Table-d’Hote is renowned for its excellence, and for its Genuine Rhenish Wines 
and Sparkling Hock, which Mr. Speclit exports to England at Wholesale Prices. 



















1870 


MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER 


19 


GENEVA. 

F. GRIVAZ, 

MANUFACTURING JEWELLER, 

No. 10, GRAND QUAI. 

Only Proprietor of the celebrated Grotto 
de Topozes discovered in August , 
1868, in the Mountains du Galan- 
stock, Canton d’ Uri. 

An immense choice of Jewels in the first 
taste will be found here, and all the 
Oriental Stones mounted and unmounted. 

This house was founded in 1837, 
and is highly recommended by the nu¬ 
merous travellers who have visited it. 


CARY’S IMPROVED POCKET 
TOURIST’S TELESCOPE. 

(Nee ‘Murray’s Handbook.’) 
Manufacturer of all descriptions of Mathe¬ 
matical, Surveying, and Optical Instruments, 
for the use of Naval and Military Officers, &c. 
Also the new Binocular Reconnoitring Field 
Glass, in Aluminium of exceeding lightness 
and durability, so highly spoken of by officers 
and other gentlemen : from 11. Is.; ordinary 
metal from 21. 10s. Cary's improved Achro¬ 
matic Microscope, with two sets of choice 
lenses, capable of defining the severe test 
objects; from 21. 15s. Travelling Spectacles 
of all kinds. 

Mathematical and Optical Instrument 
Maker by special appointment to the War 
Office, Admiralty, Trinity House, Royal 
Military College, Sandhurst, Royal Geogra¬ 
phical Society, Christ’s Hospital, Trinity 
House, King’s College, &c.; and Optician to 
the Royal London Ophthalmic Hospital. 
GOULD & PORTER, Successors to CARY, 
181, STRAND, LONDON. 
Established upwards of a Century. 


GENEVA. (SWITZERLAND.) 


•-*- 

IX O T EL I > M L ’ XI O TJ. 


New Proprietor, GUSTAVE WOLFF. 

Also Proprietor of Hotel Byron, near Villeneuve. 

r PHIS unrivalled and admirably conducted Hotel has long enjoyed an 
J- extensive and high reputation among Travellers. Situated in the finest part of the town, 
and facing the lake, it commands a beautiful view of the environs. Its accommodation is of 
so superior a character, that tourists will find it a highly desirable place of residence or of 
temporary sojourn. Table-d’Hote at 1 o’clock, 4 fr.; at 5 o’clock, 4 fr. Arrangements made 
with families during the winter months at very reasonable charges. New Reading and 
Smoking Rooms. 


FRANKFORT O. M. 


MR. C. A. LOHR, 

PROPRIETOR OP 

THE ROMAN EMPEROR HOTEL, 

Begs to recommend his House to English Travellers. 
fDHIS large and well-situated Establishment is conducted under the immediate 
X. superintendence of the Proprietor, and newly furnished with every comfort, 
and a new splendid Dining-room. 

The “ Roman Emperor” is often honoured by Royal Families and other high 
personages. The following have lately honoured this Hotel— 

H.M. THE KING AND QUEEN OF WURTEMBERG. 

H.M. THE QUEEN OF HOLLAND. 

H.R.H. THE CROWN PRINCE AND PRINCESS OLGA OF WURTEMBERG. 
H.I.H. THE ARCHDUKE OF AUSTRIA. &c. &c. &c. 

Table-d’hSte at 1, Ifl. 30kr. Breakfast, 42kr. 

5, 211. Tea, 42kr. 

Bed Rooms, from Ifl. to 3fl. 

c 2 


u 













‘JO 


MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 


May, 


PASSPORT AGENCY OFFICE, 

W. J. ADAMS, 59, FLEET STREET, LONDON, E.C. 
Regulations gratis for obtaining Foreign Office Passports. 

pOUNTRY or LONDON Residents, 

\J by forwarding a Banker's Application, or 
Certificate of Identity, can have a PASSPORT 
obtained. Country Residents, by this arrangement, 
are saved the trouble of a personal attendance. 

Fee obtaining Passport, Is. 6 d.; Visas, Is. each. 

Passports caref ully Mounted and Cased , and 
Names lettered thereon in Gold. 

Passport Cases from Is. 6d. to 6s. each. 

THE LATEST EDITIONS OF MURRAY’S HANDBOOKS. 

BRADSHAW’S BRITISH and CONTINENTAL GUIDES and HANDBOOKS 

to France, Belgium, Switzerland, Italy, Spain and Portugal, Normandy, Brittany, I'yrol, 
Paris, Turkey, Syria, and Palestine (2 vols). 

Tourist’s Handbook to Great Britain, &c. 

Baedeker’s Foreign Handbooks. 

Bradshaw’s Complete Phrase Books, French, Italian, Spanish, and German. -Is. each. 
Bradshaw’s Overland and Through Route Guide to India, China, and Australia, 5s. . 
Bradshaw’s Handbooks to Bombay, Madras, and Bengal, 10s. each. 

Kellar’s, Lettthold’s, and Ziegler’s Maps of Switzerland. Mate’s Map of the Tyrol. 
Knapsacks, Rugs, Waterproof Coats, Door-fasteners. Handbags, Portmanteaus, Straps, Soap, 
Compasses, Drinking Cups, Courier Bags, Glycerine, ike. 

Harper’s Handbook to Kurope and the East. Phrase Books and Dictionaries. 

Black’s Guides to England, Ireland, Wales, and Scotland. 

O’Shea’s Spain and Portugal. 

Experienced. Couriers engaged upon application. 


GENOA. 


HOTEL CROIX de MALTE. 

Mr. FELIX BOTTANTIS, Proprietor.' 
rj^HIS Hotel is situated in the centre of the town, commands 
a fine view of the sea, and is the nearest to the Steam Packet 
Wharf. It has lately been much enlarged and embellished, 
and all the modern improvements conducive to comfort have 
been introduced to render this Establishment worthy of the 
patronage of the English Nobility and Gentry. 

00013 TABLE D’HOTE. 

OMNIBUS. ENGLISH SPOKEN. 































1870 


MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 


21 


Stanford’s Foreign Office Passport Agency, 

6 & 7, CHARING CROSS, LONDON, S.W. 


Passports (which are good for life) 
mounted on Muslin or Silk, in Roan, 
Morocco, or Russia Case, with the 
name of the Owner lettered on the 
outside, thus preventing injury or 
loss, as well as lessening the delay in 
examination abroad. 

For further particulars, including 
the Forms of Application, Cost of 
Passport, Visas, &c. &c., see Stan¬ 
ford’s Passport Circular, 
which will be forwarded per post on 
receipt of One Stamp. 

STANFORD’S TOURIST’S CATALOGUE, 

Containing Title, Price, &c., of the Best Guide Books, Maps, Conversation Books, Diction¬ 
aries, &c. &c„ published in the United Kingdom, the Continent, and America, Gratis on 

application, or free per post for One Stamp. 

London: EDWARD STANFORD, 6 & 7, Charing Cross, S.W., 

Agent for the Sale of the Ordnance Maps, Geological Survey Maps, and Admiralty Charts. 



GENEVE. 




GRAND HOTEL BEAU RIVAGE. 

T HIS first-rate, splendid Hotel has the advantage of being the most pleasantly 
situated in Geneve, on the Quai du Mont Blanc, near the English Church, in 
front of the Steamboat Landing, and very near the Railway Station. From the 
Garden and two delightful Terraces, and from each window of the Hotel, Mont 
llianc the. Lake, and the Town, can be seen in their fullest extent. Charges moderate. 
Table-d’Hote three times a day. Is the resort of the first English and American 

l ‘ amlllCS ' MAYER & KUNZ, Proprietors, 

First-rate House, containing about one hundred large Apartments and Saloon, 
for Families, having been lately enlarged . 

ENGLISH SPOKEN AND ENGLISH NEWSPAPERS KEPT. 


BERLIN 


Lj . 


hotel r o y a 

Proprietor: Mr. FRIEDRICH LANGE, 

UNTER DEN LINDEN, No. 3, and corner of Wilhelm Street. 

Situated in the most beautiful part of the town, near the Royal Theatres, the Museum, the 
' “ l j the Ministry and Ambassadors. AVaterworks and Baths in the Hotel. Carriages. 
Dinners and suppers at any hour. Good English cuisine, and French restaurant in elegant 
saloons looking over the Promenade. Prompt attendance and moderate prices. 



















































22 


MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 


May, 


THE CONTINENT. 


COURIERS AND TRAVELLING SERVANTS OF 
DIFFERENT NATIONS. 


Society of Couriers and Travelling 

Servants. 

Established 1(3 Years. 

Patronised by the Eoyal Pamily, Nobility, and Gentry. 

12, BURY STREET, ST. JAMES’S. 

mHIS Society is composed of Members of different Nations, 
J- all of well-established reputation, great experience, efficiency, 
and respectability. 

Couriers suitable for any country can be obtained. 

j 

Italians, Germans, Swiss, French, and Men of other 
Nations, compose this Society; some of whom, besides the 
usually required languages, speak Spanish, Russian, Swedish, 
Turkish, and Arabic,—in fact, every Continental and European 
language. 

Travellers for any part can immediately meet with 
Couriers and Travelling Servants on application to the 
Secretary. 


COURIERS AND TRAVELLING SERVANTS OF DIFFERENT NATIONS, 

12, BURY STREET, ST. JAMES’S. 





1870. 


MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER 




23 


BONN ON THE RHINE. 

MR. SCHMITZ, 

PROPRIETOR OF THE GOLDEN STAR HOTEL, 


Begs leave to recommend his Hotel to English Travellers. The apart¬ 
ments are furnished throughout in the English style ; the rooms are 
carpeted; and the attendance, as well as the kitchen and the wine- 
cellar, is well provided. Mr. SCHMITZ begs to add that at no first- 
rate Hotel on the Rhine will be found more moderate charges and more 
cleanliness. 


The STAR HOTEL has been honoured by the visits of the following 
Members of the English Royal Family :— 


1857. 

Oct. 16 | 

1857. 

Aug. 20 | 

1857. 

Aug. 8 

1857. 

July 29 j 

1857. 

July 29 | 

1857. 

July 15 | 

1856. 

Nov. . | 
( 

1846. 

June 18 < 

1818. May . . 
1825. March j 
and Sept. . 1 

1834. 

July. . | 

1836. 

1837. 
1839. 

Aug. . 
July. . 
Nov, . 

— 

Nov. . j 

1840. 

i 

• • • • | 

1841. 

.... ^ 

1841. 

• • • • 

1844. 

• • • • 

• • » 

1845. 

June . | 

1847. 

July -5 


II. R. H. the Prince of Wales, accompanied by General Sir W. Codrington, 
Colonel {■’on son by, Sir Frederic Stanley, Dr. Armstrong, Rev. F. C. 
Tarver, Mr. Gibbs, etc. 

H. R. H. the Prince of Wales and his Suite paying a visit at the Golden 
Star Hotel to His Majesty the King of the Belgians. 

H. R. H. the Prince of Wales and his Suite. 

T. R. H. the Duchess of Cambridge and Princess Mary of Cambridge, 
accompanied by the Baron Knesrbeck and Suite. 

H. R. H. the Prince of Wales paying a visit at the Golden Star Hotel to 
T. R. H. the Duchess of Cambridge and Princess Mary of Cambridge. 

H. R. H. the Prince of Wales, accompanied by the Right Honourable C. 
Grey, General Major, Colonel Ponsonby, Sir Frederic Stanley, Dr. 
Armstrong, Rev. F. C. Tarver, Mr. Gibbs, etc. 

H. R. H. Prince Alfred of Great Britain, accompanied by Lieutenant- 
General Sir Frederick Stovin and Lieutenant Cowell. 

H. M. Adelaide, Queen Dowager of Great Britain, accompanied by 
His Highness Prince Edward of Saxe Weimar, Lord and Lady Bar¬ 
rington, Sir David Davies, M.D., Rev. J. R. Wood, M.A., Captain 
Taylor, &c. &c., honoured the above establishment with a Three 
Days’ Visit. 

H. R. H. the Duke of Cambridge and Suite. 

H. R. H. the Duke and Duchess of Clarence (King William IV. and 
Queen Adelaide) and Suite. 

H. M. Queen Adelaide, accompanied by the Earl and Countess of Errol, 
Earl and Countess of Denbigh, Earl and Countess Howe, &c. 

H. R. H. the Duchess of Gloucester and Suite. 

H. R. H. the Duchess of Cambridge and Suite. 

H. R. H. the Prince George of Cambridge and Suite. 

H. R. H. Prince Albert of Saxe Coburg Gotha, accompanied by Prince 
Ernest of Saxe Coburg Gotha, and their Suite. 

H, R. H. the Duchess of Cambridge, accompanied by the Princess Augusta 
of Cambridge, and their Suite. 

H. R. H. the Duchess of Kent and Suite, accompanied by H. S. H. the 
Prince of Leiningen. 

H. R. H. the Duchess of Cambridge and Suite. 

H. R. H. Princess Carolina of Cambridge. 

H. R. H. the Duchess of Cambridge and Suite. 

H. R. H. Princess Mary of Cambridge. 

H. R. H. the Duchess of Kent and Suite, accompanied by H. S. H. the 
Prince of Leiningen. 

T. R. H. the Duke and Duchess of Cambridge, with their Family and 
Suite. 






MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER, 


24 


May* 


MUDIE'S SELECT LIBRARY. 


BOOKS FOR ALL READERS. 


FIRST-GLASS SUBSCRIPTION 

FOR A CONSTANT SUCCESSION OF THE NEWEST BOOKS, 

One Guinea per Annum, 

COMMENCING AT ANY DATE. 

BOOK SOCIETIES SUPPLIED ON LIBERAL TERMS. 

CHEAP BOOKS.—NOTICE. 

TWENTY THOUSAND VOLUMES OF 

BOOKS IN ORNAMENTAL BINDING FOR PRESENTS. 

CONSISTING CHIEFLY OP 

WORKS OF THE BEST AUTHORS, 

AND MORE THAN TWO HUNDRED THOUSAND VOLUMES 
of Surplus Copies of other Popular Books of the Past Season, 

ARE NOW ON SALE AT GREATLY REDUCED PRICES. 
Catalogues postage free on Application. 

MUDIE’S SELECT LIBRARY, New Oxford Street, London. 

CITY OFFICE—4, King Street, Cheapside. 

GENEVA. 

HOTEL 33E COURONNE. 

Proprietor, Mr. F. BAUR. 

HPHIS ESTABLISHMENT, of the first Rank, completely 

newly furnished throughout, situated in front of the magnificent Pont <1 u 
Mont Blanc, the National Monument, the Steam-boat landing, and the English 
Garden, enjoys a most extended view of Lac Leman and Mont Blanc. 

Every attention paid to the comfort and wishes of Families and Gentlemen. 
Active attendance, good cuisine and cellar. English and American newspapers. 
Tables-d’Hote 3 times a day. Omnibus from the Hotel to every Train. 

FLORENCE. 

BRIZZI AND NICCOLAPS 

Musical 

PIANOFORTES, OF THE BEST MAKERS, 

FOR SALE AND ON HIRE. » 

GENERAL DEPOT FOR WIND-INSTRUMENTS. 

Italian and Foreign Music. 

Musical Lending Library. 

PIAZZA MADONNA, I BRANCH HOUSE (Music Deu6t) 

PALAZZO ALDOBRANDJNI. | 12, VIA CERRETANI. 















1870. 


MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 


25 


FLORENCE. 


P. ROMANELLI, 

Sculptor, Pupil of, and Successor to, the late 
Professor Bartolini, has opened a Gallery, 

Lung’ Arno Guicciardini, No. 7. 

The intelligent amateur will find there a 
Collection of Statues, both originals and copies, 
artistically executed. 

Principal Works :—The Son of William 
Tell; the Young Franklin ; the Young Wash¬ 
ington; the Young Whittington; the Young 
Napoleon; the Young Moses; Garibaldi. 


OXFORD. 


SPIERS AND SON, 

102 & 103, HIGH STREET, 

Respectfully invite TOURISTS to VISIT 
their Extensive Warehouses for Useful and 
Ornamental Manufactures* suitable for Pre¬ 
sents and remembrances of Oxford. 

Copies of every Guide-Book and Map of 
the City, published, kept in stock. Photo¬ 
graphs, &c. 

Inventors and Manufacturers of the cele¬ 
brated “ Oxford Cyclopean Washstands.” 

Information relative to Oxford afforded to 
strangers visiting their establishments. 


GENEVA MUSICAL BOXES. 


B. A, B R EM ON D, MANUFACTURER. 

Prize Medal, Paris Exhibition, 1867. 

WHOLESALE. RETAIL. EXPORTATION. 

7, RUE READIER, GENEVA, SWITZERLAND. 


LUCERNE. 


EMLISCHER HOF.—HOTEL 
d’AHGLETEKKE. 

Proprietor—JEAN REBER. 


rrillS First-rate Establishment, very 
J. well recommended by the best class of 
Travellers, is situated close to the Steamers’ 
Landing-place, and vis-a-vis the Railway Sta¬ 
tions, on the loveliest position of the Lake, 
with superb views of the Rigi, Pilatus, Alps, 
and Glaciers; contains several Saloons, 62 
comfortable Rooms, Smoking and Reading 
Rooms, where are French and English news- • 


papers. 

Charge for Rooms per diem, lfr. 50c. 
to 3fr. 

Table d’Hote, at 1 ... 3fr. 

4‘30 . . 4fr. 

7‘30 . - 8fr. 


n 


>> 

»» 


The ‘ Times,’ ‘ Galignani,’ 4 VIndepen- 
dance,’ the ‘Bund,’ and other German, 
French, and American papers are taken for 
the Reading Room. , 


GALIGNANPS 

NEW PARIS GUIDE. 


Compiled from the best authorities, revised 
and verified by personal inspection, and ar¬ 
ranged on an entirely new plan, with Map 
and Plates. Royal 18mo. 10s. 6cZ. bound; or 
with Map only, 7s. 6 d. bound. 

London : Simpkin, Marshall, & Co. 


ROTTERDAM. 


H. A. KRAMERS, 

Importer of Foreign Books. 

Mr. Murray’s ‘ Handbooks for Travellers, 
Bradshaw’s Monthly Railway Guides, Bae¬ 
deker's 4 Reischandbiicher,’ and Hend- 
schel’s 4 Telegraph,’ always in Stock. 

English, French, and German Books im¬ 
ported Weekly, and a great variety of New 
Books kept in Store. 

47, GELDERSCHE KADE. 


















26 


MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER 


May, 



By Appointment to H.R.H. 


The Prince of Wales. 

i 


37, WEST STRAND, LONDON, W.C. 

New Illustrated Catalogues of Registered Articles for 1870 

Post Free. 



ALLEN’S PATENT ALLEN’S PATENT 
BAG. DESPATCH-BOX DESK. 


ALLEN’S PATENT 
Quadruple Portmanteau. 



ALLEN’S 
SOLID LEATHER 
DRESSING-CASE. 



ALLEN’S NEW 
DRESSING BAG. 




ALLEN’S 10 GUINEA 
SILVER DRESSING BAG. 


ALLEN’S SOLID 
MAHOGANY 
DRESSING-CASE. 

ALSO 


LADY’S 

WARDROBE 

PORTMANTEAU. 


. Allen’s Barrack Furniture Catalogue, for 
Officers joining, Post Free. 


PRIZE MEDAL AWARDED 


FOR -GENERAL EXCELLENCE. 














































1870. 


MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 


27 


IRELAND. 

ANTRIM ARMS HOTEL, 

TORTRUSH. 


r PHIS 

JL view 


Hotel is beautifully situated, having an uninterrupted 

of the Atlantic Ocean, the Giant’s Causeway, the Skerries, and Lough Foyle , 


It contains upwards of 100 Apartments, 

Principally facing the Sea. 

A NOBLE COFFEE-ROOM, 

with Drawing-Room attached, equally available for Ladies and Gentlemen. 

Table-d’Hote daily during the Season. 

Cuisine and Wines First-Class. Terras moderate. French spoken. 

BSilliavd aisel Smoking Rooms. 

THE SEA BATHS, 

Recently rebuilt on the Hotel Grounds, by Mr. Brown, will be found to contain every 
modern improvement. Separate Apartments for Ladies and Gentlemen. Hot, Cold, Shower, 
and Douche Baths. The Superintendents in each Department being people of experience, 
visitors to the Baths may depend on every attention. 

Extensive Posting and Livery Establishment in connection with the Hotel. 

A Vehicle to the Giant’s Causeway and back daily during the Season. 

Visitors to the Hotel are respectfully requested to he particular in inquiring for the ANTRIM 
ARMS HOTEL Omnibus. It attends all Steamers and Trains, for the conveyance of 
Passengers to the Hotel free. 

J. BROWN, Proprietor. 

Portrush is the nearest Railway Station to the Giant's Causeway. 


London and South-Western Railway. 

LONDON STATION, WATERLOO BRIDGE. 

The Cheap and Picturesque Route to 

PARIS, ROUEN, HONFLEUR, AND CAEN, 

Via SOUTHAMPTON and HA VRE. 

Every Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, the last Train from London at 9 p.m. for the 
Southampton Docks, alongside the Steamer. 

Fares throughout (London and Paris)— First Class, 33 / 0 ; Second Class, 221 / 0 - 
Return Tickets (available for one month)— First Class, 50 / ; Second Class, 36 /. 

JERSEY, GUERNSEY, AND ST. MALO, 

DAILY MAIL SERVICE, 

Vid SOUTHAMPTON—The favourite Route. 

Fares throughout (London and Jersey or Guernsey)— 32/0 First ; 23/0 Second Class. 

Every Weekday. 

Return Tickets (available for One Month)— 48/0 First ; or 38/0 Second Class. 

The Last Train from London in time for the Steamers leaves at 9 p.m. ( except on Saturdays, 
on which clay the Last Train is at 5.15 p.m.) for the Southampton Docks, alongside 

the Steamer. 

For further information apply to Mr. De Voulle, 3, Place Vendome, Paris.—Mr. Larigstaff, 
47, Grand Quai, Havre.—Mr. Enault, Honfleur.—Mr. E. D. Le Couteur, Jersey. — Mr. 
Spencer, Guernsey. — Captain Gaudin, St. Malo. — Or to Mr. E. K. Goiike, Steam Packet 
Superintendent, Southampton. 





28 


MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 


May, 


DRESDEN. 

HOTEL BELLEVUE, DRESDEN. 

Kept by Mr. EMIL KAYSER. 


rpHIS line large Establishment, situated on the banks of the Elbe, between the 
-*• two beautiful bridges, facing the Theatre, Museum, and Catholic Cathedral, 
adjoining the Bruhl’s Terrace, and opposite the Royal Palace and Green Vaults, 
contains One Hundred Front Rooms. These apartments combine elegance and 
comfort, and most of them fronting either the Theatre Square, or public walks 
and gardens of the Hotel, and command fine views of the River, Bridges, and 
distant Mountains. The Gardens of the Hotel afford its guests an agreeable and 
private Promenade. Table d’Hote at one and five o’clock. Private Dinners at any 
hour. To families or single persons desirous of taking apartments for the winter, 
very advantageous arrangements will be offered, and every effort made to render 
their residence in the Hotel pleasant and comfortable. Carriages, Baths, Riding. 
Billiard and Smoking Rooms. Ladies’ Parlour. 


rPHE LONDON and WESTMINSTER BANK issues Cir- 

-L cular Notes of £10, £25, and £50 each, for the use of Travellers, payable in 
the principal Towns on the Continent of Europe, also in Asia, Africa, and North 
and South America. No expense whatever is incurred, and when cashed no charge 
is made for commission. Letters of Credit are also granted on the same places. 
They may be obtained at the City Office in Lothbury, or at any of the Branches,viz.: 


Westminster Branch 
Bloomsb.ury ,, 

Southwark ,, 

Eastern ,, 

Marylebone ,, 

Temple Bar ,, 

Lambeth ,, 

May 1, 1870. 


. 1, St. James’s Square. 

. 214, High Holborn. 

. 3, Wellington Street, Borough. 

. 130, High Street, Whitechapel. 

. 4, Stratford Place, Oxford Street. 

. 217, Strand. 

. 89 <k 91, Westminster Bridge Road. ’ 

Wm. EWINGS, General Manager. 


PURE AERATED WATERS. 



Ellis’s Biithin Soda Water. 
Ellis’s liuthin Potass Water. 
Ellis’s Buthin Seltzer Water. 
Ellis’s Biithin Lemonade. 

Ellis’s Lithia Water. 

Ellis’s Lithia and Potass Water. 


FOR GOUT —the last-named is a splendid remedy. 

EVERY CORK IS BRANDED “R. ELLIS & SON, RUTHIN,” and every label 
bears their trade mark, without which none is genuine. Sold by Chemists, Hotel Keepers, 
Confectioners, and Wholesale only from R. Ellis k Son, Ruthin, North Wales, 

London Agents :}W. Best ? & Sons, Henrietta St., Cavendish Square. 















1870. 


MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 29 

» 

PARIS. 

-oo^gc'.oc-- 

HOTEL DES DEUX MONDES 
ET D’ANGLETEItRE, 

. 8, EDE D'ANTIN, 

Near (he New Avenue Napoleon I8ff., TuileHes, Place 
Yendome, and the Boulevards. 


/THIS magnificent first-class Hotel, recently constructed and 
elegantly furnished in the newest and most fashionable 
style, surrounded by gardens, justifies the preference accorded 
to it by Families and Gentlemen for the splendour and com¬ 
fort of its Apartments, its excellent Cuisine, and the care and 
attention shown to all who honour the Hotel with their 
patronage. 

LARGE AND SMALL APARTMENTS, AND SINGLE 
ROOMS, AT MODERATE CHARGES. 

PRIVATE RESTAURANT. 

SPLENDID COFFEE-ROOMS, SALOONS, READING AND 

SMOKING ROOMS. 

LETTER-BOX. INTERPRETERS. 

HORSES, ELEGANT CARRIAGES, OMNIBUSES 

FOR THE RAILWAYS, 






MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER 


May, 




BERNE (Switzerland). 


USICAL B O X E 

WOOD CARVINGS, SCULPTURES, 4c, is., 

OP 

J. H. HELLER, AT BERNE. 



Mil. J. H. HELLER, OF BEENE, Manufacturer of the CELEBRATED 

SWISS MUSICAL BOXES, 

With all the latest improvements, 

INVENTOR 

Of the greatest part of ARTICLES WITH MUSIC, and 

PURVEYOR 

To several Courts, begs to invite the Nobility and Gentry of England travelling in 

Switzerland to visit his well-known 

EXTENSIVE ESTABLISHMENT AT BERNE, 

Where will he found the largest and richest assortment of his celebrated 

MUSICAL BOXES, 

Flaying from Four to Eighty-four airs (tunes), with or without Chimes ; 

Drums, Castagnettes, 

CELESTIAL VOICES,' MANDOLINES, 
EXPRESSIVES, &c.; 

Also Swiss Chalets, Necessaires, Photographic Albums; Glove Boxes, Work Tables 
and Boxes, Writing Stands, Letter Weights, Wine and Water Bottles, 

Cigar Cases, tlolders, Snuff Boxes, &c., 

JX.nLUi "WITH: MUSIC; 

Chairs playing when sitting on them, &c.; further, an extensive assortment of 
Swiss Sculptures in Wood, Cuckoo Clocks, Drawing-room Clocks (Pendules), 
Tables, Chairs, &c., as well as every possible variety of objects in 
this important and beautiful branch of 

Manufacture unattained by auy other House. 








1870. 


MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER 


31 


GENEVA. 

-oo^oo-— j 

HOTEL DE LA METROPOLE, 

Directed by Mr. CHARLES ALDINGER, formerly the well-known 
Proprietor of the Hotel de la Couronne, and now the 
Proprietor of the Hotel de la Metropole. 


ris HIS large and excellent Establishment, situated in the most favourable quarter of 
I the town, facing the Pont du Mont Blanc, with the English Garden in front, 
which is well provided with flowers and shrubs, and shady seats, and goes down 
ro the edge of the lake. 

From the rooms in front there is a very fine view of the lake, and from those at 
the back the snow-capped summit of Mont Blanc is seen in the distance; and 
from an Observatory at the top of the house, of very easy access, both can be seen, 
and a very extended view of the surrounding country. 

It contains 200 most elegantly furnished Bed and Sitting Rooms in every 
variety, and the Proprietor himself superintends all the arrangements. 

A Reading Room, with all English, American, French, and German newspapers, 
and a spacious Coffee and Smoking Room are in the Hotel; in short, every comfort 
Visitors can expect in a first-class Hotel is at their disposition.' 

The House, by its good ventilation, is exceedingly cool in summer ; and in 
winter is heated by large stoves. Charges are very moderate, and pension during 
the winter. Table-d’hote 3 times a day. Omnibus from the Hotel 3 times a day. 

Private Carriages and Cabs always ready. 


I> I . O TV. 


HOTEL DU JURA, 


MR. DAVID, Proprietor. 


''PHIS Hotel, which has been considerably enlarged, is a first-class house, 
I and the nearest to the Railway Station. Contains five Salons, 
sixty Bed-rooms en suite , for families, Drawing-room, Smoking-room. 
Table-d’hote ; Private Service. Carriages for Drives; Omnibus to all the 
Trains. French, English, and German Papers. English and German 
spoken. Bureau de Change in the Hotel, where English Bank Notes can 
be exchanged. , A first-rate cellar of the finest Burgundy Wines. 1 

There is a Church of England’Service in the Hotel. Visitors; taken 
en pension at reduced Prices from the 18th November to 15th May. 
















32 


MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 


May, 


FOREIGN BOOKS AT FOREIGN PRICES. 

■ - -* o » - 

Travellers may save expense and trouble by purchasing Foreign Books in 
England at the same prices at which they are published in Germany or France. 


WILLIAMS & NORGATE 

have published the following CATALOGUES of their Stock :— 


1. CLASSICAL CATALOGUE. 

2. THEOLOGICAL CATA¬ 

LOGUE. 

3. FRENCH CATALOGUE. 

4. GERMAN CATALOGUE. 

5. EUROPEAN LINGUISTIC 

CATALOGUE. 

6. ORIENTAL CATALOGUE. 

7. ITALIAN CATALOGUE. 

8. SPANISH CATALOGUE. 


10. NATURAL HISTORY 
CATALOGUE. Zoology, Bo- 
tany, Geology, Chemistry, Mathe¬ 
matics, &c. 

11. MEDICAL CATALOGUE. 

Medicine, Surgery, and the Depen¬ 
dent Sciences. 

12. SCHOOL CATALOGUE. Ele¬ 
mentary Books, Maps, &c. 

13. FOREIGN BOOK CIRCU¬ 
LARS. New Books, and New 

Purchases. 

14. SCIENTIFIC-BOOK CIRCU¬ 
LARS. New Books and Recent 


9. ART-CATALOGUE. Art,Archi¬ 
tecture, Painting, Illustrated Books. Purchases. 

ANY CATALOGUE SENT POST-FREE FOR ONE STAMP. 
■WILLIAMS & NORGATE, Importers of Foreign Books 
14, Henrietta Street, Covent Garden, London, and 
20, South Frederick Street, Edinburgh. 


VIENNA. 


AUGUST KLEIN, 

By Appointment Purveyor to tlie Prince of Wales and to the 
Imperial Courts of Austria and France, 

THE LARGEST MANUFACTORY OF VIENNA 




11 1IU. 

Mr. Klein wishes to call attention to his articles, which are 
not to be equalled in novelty and variety. 

DEPOTS. 

VIENNA—Stadtgraben, 20. 
MANUFACTORY—Neubau, Andreasgasse, 6. 
PARIS—6 and 8 Boulevard des Capucines. 
LONDON—75 Wimpole Street, W. 

Wholesale. » 

N.B,—Free admission is granted to all persons wishing to visit the Manufactory. 











33 


1870. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 


ENGADINE, GRISONS, SWITZERLAND. 

BATHS OF ST. MORITZ. 

llailway to Coire and Como. Daily Diligences to and from Coin 1 , ' 
Cliiavenna , and Colico (Lake of Como). 

THESE BATHS, the highest in Europe, are open from 15th June to 

A 15th September. The waters (acidulous-chalybeate') are superior in their beneficial 
effects, combined with the bracing mountain air, to the similar and celebrated waters of 
Schwalbach, Pyrmont, Spa, &c., in all disorders characterised by a want of tone, the comfort 
and excellence of the H<>tel Bathing and Drinking Arrangements are we 1 known and univer¬ 
sally admitted. The spacious Boarding-houses have a covered communication with the steam- 
heated Baths and Springs. Church Service; saloon-; telegraph. Good causewav and 
frequent carriage communication with the neighbouring village of ST.. MORITZ, which has 
also abundant and comfortable accommodation. Romantic sc-nery. Magnificent tours in all 
directions of the Alpine Valley, renowned for its sublime beauty, rich with glaciers and lakes. 

Perfect, durable, and unaltered conservation of the bottled voters in cases of 15 or 30 
quarts (carriage free to Coire ) at 10i Jr. and 1 8 fr.; 25 or 5 > pints, 13 fr. and , 23 fr. 

For a description of the Baths, see ‘ The Principal Baths of Switzerland aud Savoy, by 
Edwin Lee, M.D, London.’ 

Applications for rooms to be addressed, as much beforehand as possible, to the Director of 
the Hotel, and for bottled Waters to the Director of the Water Department. 

London Depots — 

W. SCHACHT, English and Foreign Chemist, 6, Finsbury Place South, E.C., etc., etc. 


BIARRITZ, 

4 

HOTEL DE FRANCE, 

And the magnificent Maison Garderes. 

Proprietor, Mr. GARDERES. 

ipHESE two first-class Establishments are delightfully 

situated on the Beach, in front of the Imperial Chateau, the Baths, and in 
the centre of the Promenades. They are furnished in a most superior style, with 
every comfort and convenience that can he desired by English or American Tra¬ 
vellers. Moderate charges. The Proprietor speaks English. 

Carriages for Excursions in the Pyrenees and Spain, 

Table-d’hote. ‘ The Times ’ newspaper, 

. D 










MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 


May, 


34 


GEN EVA. 

HOTEL VICTORIA, 

RUE DE MONT BLANC. 

Near tlie English Church, the Railway Station, and the Steam¬ 
boat Landings. 

FIRST-CLASS HOTEL. 

MALSCH BERTHOUD, ’Proprietor. 

GENEVA. . 

— +o* -— 

A MOUNTAIN RESIDENCE, MONT SALEVE, 

One and a-half hour from Geneve, 3300 ft. above the level of the sea. 

MOUNETIER 

HOTEL DE LA RECONNAISSANCE, 

Kept by PERREARD-FAURAX. 

OMNIBUSES TO GENEVE TWICE A DAY. 


LAUSANNE. 


-+o* 


Hotel Gibbon: Mr. Ritter, Proprietor. 

'THIS First-class Hotel, highly recommended in every 

1 respect, is situated in the best part of the town, and commands the llnest 
and most extensive views of the Lake, the Alps, and the splendid scenery around 
Lausanne. The terraced garden adjoining the salle-a-manger is unsurpassed by 
any in the neighbourhood, and was the favourite residence of Gibbon, who wrote 
here his History of Rome. From the extensive Garden, which is tastefully laid out 
and attached to the Hotel, the view is most grand and romantic. In fact, this 
house will be found to give very superior accommodation, and to offer to travellers 
a highly desirable place of residence or of temporary sojourn. 

Pension at Reduced Prices during the Winter. 


LAUSANNE. 


Hotel Riche-lViont: kept by Fritz Ritter. 

HpHXS Hotel is of the first order, worthy of tbe highest recom- 

mendations, and in a situation of surpassing beauty. It is surrounded by 
gardens and promenades, and possesses the advantage of having three fronts facing 
the Alps. Reduced prices for protracted stay, and Pension' during Winter season. 




















1870. 


MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 


. 35 


Important to the Travelling Public. 
PARCELS TO AND FROM THE CONTINENT, 

--OO^OO—-- 

THE CONTIHEITAL 

DAILY PARCELS EXPRESS 

(ESTABLISHED 1849), 

S OLE Agency for England of the Belgian Government Bail¬ 
way and North German Postal Confederation, and Correspondent of the 
Northern of France Railway, conveys by Mail Steam Packets, Every Night, 
(Sunday excepted), via Dover, Calais, and Ostend, and rapidly by Rail and Post 
to destination, Parcels and Packages of all kinds, between England and all parts 
of the Continent, at Through Rates, which are very moderate, and include all 
charges, except Duties and Entries. 

Parcels should he hooked as follows :— 

HOMEWARD.— From the Continent. 

In all Germany. At any Post-office of the North German Postal Confederation, 
or of the countries in connection therewith, viz., Austria, Italy, Switzer¬ 
land, Russia, Denmark, &c. 

Belgium. At any of the State Railway Stations, at the Office of the Agent in 
Brussels, A. Crooy, 90 bis, Montague de la Cour; or they can be 
sent direct to Mr. De Bidder, 54, Rue St. Joseph, Ostend. 

Holland. In the principal towns. Van Gend and Loos. 

France. Paris, G. Pritchard, 4, Rue Rossini. To whose care also, parcels 
for conveyance to England can be despatched from towns beyond 
Paris, with advice by Post. 

OUTWARD.— To the Continent. 

In London. At Chief Office, 53, Gracechurch Street, City (D. N. Bridge, 
Manager, to whom all communications should be addressed), or at the 
Universal Office, 34, Regent Circus. 

In Country Towns. At the Agency in Liverpool, Manchester, Sheffield, Hull, 
Birmingham, Leeds, Glasgow, Dublin, Bradford, Nottingham, South¬ 
ampton, Dover, and Folkestone, as stated in Books of Rates, which 
can be had gratis, on application to Chief Office. 

In other Towns, where no Agent may be appointed, parcels should 
be sent under cover, by Railway, to D. N. Bridge, at above address, 
with advice of contents and value by Post. 
r N.B.—Persons wishing to obtain goods of any kind from Belgium, can do so 
through this Express, “ Contre Rembouisement,” i.e., Payment of the Amount of 
Invoice on delivery of the Parcel. 

London: Chiee Office, 53, Gracechurch Street, 

May, 1870. 







36 


MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 


May, 


* GENEVA. 

-- 

PENSION FLAGELL, GRAND QUAI. 

T7IRST-CLASS PENSION, near the Hotel de la Metropole, 

A facing the English Garden and the Lake of Geneva. Sixty Bed Rooms and 
10 Salons. First-rate Cuisine. Pension, according to the rooms and the time ol 
the year. 

Strangers are received for one or two days. 

LUCHON (BAGNERES DE), PYRENEES. 

Grand Hotel Bonne-Maison et de Londres, 

Mr. VIDAL, Jun., Proprietor. 

S ITUATED opposite the Thermal Establishment or Bath-rooms. This favourite 
and first-rate Hotel affords extensive accommodation of the best description 
for a large number of visitors. It is delightfully situated, and will be found most 
comfortable for Families or Gentlemen. 

:iv ice. 

ALPES MAR1TIMES—FRANCE. 

GRAND HOTEL CHAU VAIN. 


r |IHE largest and nicest Hotel of the town, situated all South, 
much frequented by the English nobility and most of tlie 
Americans coming to Nice. Newly enlarged by the addition 
of a splendid “ Atrium,” magnificent Ball and Concert-rooms, 
very fine Salons for Reception, and Beading-rooms—the best 
"Table d’Hote of Nice. Charges moderate. 


MR. P. CHAIJVAIN FILS, Proprietor. 














1870. 


MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 


BADEN-BADEN. 


VICTORIA II O r T E I,. 


Proprietor, Mr. FRANZ GRQSHOLZ. 



commands the most charming views in Baden. It is reputed to be one of the best 
Hotels in Germany. The Table and Wines are excellent, with prompt attendance 
and great civility. Prices very moderate. English and other Journals. 


BRISTOL. 


ROYAL HOTEL, COLLEGE GREEN. 

HTHIS favourite Hotel lias been recently enlarged by the addition 
of 33 new Bed-rooms, and is now one of the largest and best appointed 
Hotels in England. All Omnibuses pass the door. Night Porter kept. 

Postal Telegraph Office in the Hotel. 

W. SWANSON, Manager. 

Bristol College Green Hotel Company, Limited. 


CHAUMONT (near Neuchatel, Switzerland.) 

HOTEL AND PENSION DE CHAIJMONT, 

C. BITZMANN, Proprietor. 

HPHIS Hotel, exceedingly well situated for an extensive view 

JL of the magnificent Panorama of the Alps and the surrounding scenery, contains 
large and small Apartments, Saloons, Dining Rooms, Billiard and Reading Rooms. 
Private Suites of Rooms for Families. Bath Rooms. New milk and whey sup¬ 
plied on the premises. Leading country and foreign Newspapers. Telegraph 
Station and Post-office here. Moderate charges. 

VALAIS, SWITZERLAND^ 

HOTEL PENSIOTTOF MORGINS. 

PTHIS beautiful Establishment, newly built and furnished, 
JL situated in the midst of the most splendid mountains of Switzerland, 4300 
feet above the sea, 15 miles from the Lake of Geneva, 30 from Mont Blanc, 36 
from the Grand St. Bernard, close to the celebrated Dent du Midi, offers to 
Visitors and Tourists all desirable comfort. Large Saloon, Reading and News 
Rooms. Billiards. The spot abounds with beautiful walks, splendid forests, and 
a few minutes’ walk from the Hotel is an excellent Iron Spring of Water, with 
Baths, &c. A distinguished Physician attached to the Establishment. Post and 
Telegraph Offices. Guides, Carriages, Horses, Mules, &c., on the shortest notice. 
Terms Moderate, and Good Attendance. 

For further information apply to CONSTANTIN BARALDINI, Landlord* 













38 


MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 


May, 


ANTWERP. 

HOTEL ST. ANTOINE, 

PLACE VERTE, 

OPPOSITE THE CATHEDRAL. 

npms Excellent first-class Hotel, which enjoys the 
well-merited favour of Families and Tourists, has been 
repurchased by its old and well-known Proprietor, Mr. Schmitt- 
Spaenhoven ; who, with his Partner, will do everything in 
their power to render the visit of all persons who may honour 
them with their patronage as agreeable and comfortable as 
possible. Baths in the Hotel. 


E G YPT. 


ALEXANDRIA AND CAIRO. 


special Appointment to AjSf;,, fbilAb % Jinnee of (Stales. 


DAVID ROBERTSON & CO., 

English Booksellers, Stationers, Photograph Vendors, 
and General Commission Agents, 
ALEXANDRIA AND CAIRO. 


A Register of English and American Travellers is kept at the 
above Establishment , and Visitors will receive any assistance 
or information they may require. 

English and Indian Newspapers by every Mail. 

TAUCHNITZ EDITIONS. 


DAVID ROBERTSON AND CO., 

ALEXANDRIA AND CAIRO. 






1870, 


MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER 


LUCERNE, 


09 


—- -- 

HOTEL SCHWEIZEEHOF. 

HAUSER BROTHERS, Proprietors. 

THE IiAROEST HOTEL SN SWITZERLAND. 

Best Situation on the Quay, with splendid view of the cele¬ 
brated panorama of the Lake and Mountains. 

r PIIE high reputation which this establishment enjoys among 

J- Travellers, and especially English and American families, is the best and 
strongest assurance of its superior arrangement and comfort. Its new immense 
Dining-Room, with adjoining Garden, Salon, and large Parlour, attract the attention 
of every Visitor. 

Reduced Prices (Pension) are made for longer visits in the early and later 
parts of the Season. 


BERLIN, 


HOTEL D’ANGLETERRE, 

2, PLACE AN DER BAUACADEMIE, 2. 

SITUATED IN THE FINEST AND MOST ELEGANT PART OF THE TOWN, 

Near to the Royal Palaces, Museums, and Theatres. 

Single travellers and large families can be accommodated with entire suites of Apartments, 
consisting of splendid Saloons, airy Bedrooms, Ac., all furnished and carpeted in the best 
English style. First-rate Table-d’Hote, Baths, Equipages, Guides. Times and Galignani’s 
Messenger taken in. Residence of Her British Majesty's Messengers. 

It. SIEBELIST, Proprietor, 


MILAN, LOMBARDY. 

H OTEL DE LA GRANDE BRETAGNE.—Vital. Biganzoli, 

situated Via Toronto, No. 45. Large and small apartments. TabRd’Hote delicately and 
abundantly served. Single Rooim for Bachelors ; Lock-up Coach-houses; Baths ; Galignani’s 
Messenger taken in; English and French spoken. The Hotel is recommended in Murray’s 
“ Handbook,” and is well known to all Travellers who have honoured it hitherto, for its 
reasonable prices, great comfort and excellent situation. British Chapel three minutes’ walk 
from the Hotel door. London Times. 


LUCERNE. 

S WAN HOTEL.—This Hotel, in the very best situation, 

enjoys a high character. Mr. HiEFELI, the Proprietor, has made in the later years 
a great many improvements, and does his utmost to olfer to his visitors a comfortable 
home. An elegant new Ladies’ Drawing-room, besides a Reading-room and Smoking-room. 
Cold, Warm, and Shower Baths. 














40 


MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, 

MARSEILLE S. 

GRAND HOTEL NOAILLES, 

RUE NOAILLES, CANNEBIERE PROLONGEE. 
FIBST-CLASS HOUSE, 

Constructed in imitation of the GRAND HOTEL, PARIS. 

Director: CAMILLE GAV0TT0, late Manager of the Grand Hotel, Milan 

T HIS splendid establishment, the largest, most important, and most recent in 
Marseilles, is the only one in the Rue Noailles which possesses a beautiful 
Garden full south. Table d’Hote all the year round, with very good wine. 
Reading and Smoking-rooms, Piano, &c.; 15 Bath-rooms always ready. All the 
Journals, native and foreign. 

The luxury and comfort of all the arrangements, and careful attention of the 
Manager, make this Hotel one of the most important and most distinguished in 
Europe. 

Waiters and Interpreters speaking every language. 

The Omnibus of the Hotel meets every Train. Voitures de Itemise. 

N.B.—Omnibuses and Carriages enter a covered space in the Hotel. 


CAIRO. 

THE NEW HOTEL. 


THE ORIENTAL HOTELS COMPANY, LIMITED. 


T'HIS Hotel lias been constructed on tlie most approved system, 
and combines all the sanitary and domestic arrangements of a First-class 
London Hotel, including a magnificent Table d’Hote Room, a Billiard Room, and 
Ladies’ Saloon. The Bath-rooms and other conveniences are of the most complete 
character. 

There are Female Domestics attached to the Hotel, especially for attendance on 
Ladies and Invalids. 

Travellers are requested to observe that the Hotel of this Company at Cairo is 
called “'The New Hotel,” and not the Hotel d’Orient, or Oriental Hotel, which 
is another establishment. 

All information may be obtained in London, on application at the Company’s 
Offices, or at the New Hotel, Cairo, Mr. W. H. Ralph, Manager; or the Oriental 
Hotel, Pont de Galle, Mr. T. M. Barker, Manager. 

14, George Street. Mansion House* London, EiCh 






1870. 


MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 


41 


Edwards’ New Miniature Photographic 
Apparatus for Tourists, 

NO KNOWLEDGE OF PHOTOGBAPIIY BEQUISITE. 

Sole Manufacturers : 

MURRAY & HEATH, Opticians, &c., to Her Majesty, 

69, JERMYN STREET, LONDON, S.W. 

Description and Prices forwarded on recept of stamped envelope. 


SWITZERLAND. 

FALLS OF THE EHINE, near SCHAFFHAUSEN. 

HOTEL S O IT W EIZER II O F 

{formerly Hotel Weber). 

HPHIS large and justly renowned first-class Establishment is under the personal 
J management of the proprietor, Mr. Wegenstf.in, who spares no pains to render it 
agreeable and comfortable. Charmingly situated opposite the celebrated Falls of the Hhine 
and surrounded by a beautiful garden, with shaded walks. The apartments command 
splendid views of the glaciers and the. beautiful scenery around. '1’lie air is very salubritus 
and healthy, the temperature regulated by the “Rhine Fall Breeze.” Boarders taken by the 
week. Grayling and trout fishing. Cioquet ground. Billiard and smoking-rooms, l adies’ 
Sitting-room. Reading-room, with “Times,” “Galignani,” “Punch,” “Illustrated,” “New 
York Herald,” etc., etc. 

On Sundays, English Divine Service in the house. 


W I L D B A D. 

--- 

Hotel Klumpp, formerly Hotel de l’Ours, 

Mr. W. KLUMPP, Proprietor. 

T HIS First-class Hotel, containing 36 Salons and 170 Bed-rooms, a separate 
Breakfast, a very extensive and elegant Dining-room, new Reading anti 
Conversation as well as Smoking Salons, with an artificial Garden over the liver, 
is situated opposite the Bath and Conversation House, and in the immediate 
vicinity of the Promenade. 

It is celebrated for its elegant and comfortable apartments, good cuisine and 
cellar, and deserves its wide-spread reputation as an excellent hotel. Table-d’hote 
at One and Five o’clock. Breakfasts and Suppers a la carte. 


EXCHANGE OFFICE. 

Correspondent of the principal Banking-houses of London for the payment of 
Circular Notes and Letters of Credit. 


Omnibus of the Hotel to 


and from each Train. 


fillc /anf private carriages , 












42 


MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 

WIESBADEN. 


May, 


■ ' ■ • 

FOUR SEASONS HOTEL & BATHS, 

PROPRIETOR, DR. ZAIS. 


'THIS First-Class Establishment, equal to any on the 

I Rhine, is in the best and most delightful situation in the Great Square, 
opposite the Kursaal, the Theatre, the Promenades; close to the Boiling 
Spring and the new English Chapel. 

This Hotel is the largest in the place, containing a great choice of 

SPLENDID AND COMFORTABLE APARTMENTS, 


for Families and Single Travellers ; exquisite Cuisine and first-class Wines, 
combined with attentive service and moderate charges. 


TABLE D’HOTE at 1 and 5 p.m., and PRIVATE DINNERS, 


Numerous comfortable Bathing Cabinets, supplied with Hot , Mineral , 

and Sweet Waters. 


LUCERNE. 


HOTEL BEAU RIVAGE. 

Proprietor—Mr. ED. ST RUB. 


rpHIS newly-established Hotel is fitted up with every comfort, 

and recommends itself by its magnificent view on the Rigi, Pilatus, &c. 


Beautiful Gardens. Pleasure Boats. Private Saloons for ladies and families. 
Smoking-rooms. Baths. Variety of Newspapers. Most scrupulous attendance. 
Moderate prices. (Reduced prices for protracted visits.) Omnibus at the Railway 
Station. 


NEAR TO LAUSANNE. 

HOTEL BEAU RIVAGE. 

SITUATED IN ONE OF THE MOST BEAUTIFUL SPOTS OF 

THE LAKE OF GENEVA. 

Directeur, RUFENACHT. 

HOMBOUEG. 

DOYAL VICTORIA HOTEL.—First-rate for Families and Single Gentlemen, 

* *' close to the Springs and the Kursaal; it is one of the best situated Hotels in the town. A splendid 
Dining-room, and two suites of airy and quiet apartments (with balconies), overlooking the fine Taunus 
Mountains, have been newly added to the Hotel. It has been patronised by His Royal Highness the Prince of 
Wales, and several other Royal personages. The Proprietor, who has been for years in first-class hotels in 
London, offers visitors the advantages of good and comfortable accommodation. All the Attendants speak 
English. Best French and English cooking. Excellent Wines. Moderate charges. 

GUSTAVE WEIGAND, Proprietor. 















1870. 


MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 


FLORENCE. 


-*o*- 


Messrs. Anthony Sasso & Son, Artists, 

4, VIA DI BORGO OGNISSANTI, 

Distinguished with Medals at the Italian Exhibition of 1861, keep the most beautiful and 
i ich Private Gallery in the City of Ancient and modern original pictures, copies of the most 
celebrated pictures in the Public Galleries, water-colour paintings, and beautiful ancient 
carved cabinets, &c. f 1 

ENGLISH SPOKEN. 

Agents and Correspondents in England and America: — 

Messrs. J. & R. McCRACKEN, 38, Queen Street. Cannon Street, London, E C. 

Messrs. DUNCAN, SHIRMAN, & CO„ and Messrs. AUSTIN, BALDWIN, & CO., New York. 

POITIERS. 

- -- 

GRAND HOTEL DU PALAIS. 

HENRI SAFIN, Proprietaire. 

"E TABLI.SiSEMENT construit specialement pour Hotel. 

90 chambres, 10 salons. Salon de Lecture, Cafe, Billard, Journaux 
francais et strangers, Boite aux lettres, Poste te'legraphique. Voitures de Remise. 

On trouve VOmnibus a tons les Trains. 


HEIDELBERG. 


-Kh 


HOTEL DE LEU RO PE. 

THIS new, magnificent, first-rate Establishment, sur¬ 
rounded by private and public gardens, with the view 
of the Castle, and the very best situation in Heidelberg, 
enjoys already an European reputation. 


READING ROOM, 

Willi English and American Papers. 

Reduced prices for protracted stay , and for 
the Winter Season. 


TLffiFELI-GUJER, Proprietor. 
















44 


MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER, 


May, 


VILLEN EUVE. 

-——■»— — 

BYRON, 

NEAR TO THE CASTLE OP CHILLON. 

New Proprietor, GUSTAVE WOLFF. 

Same Proprietor as of the Hotel cle VEcu at Geneva. 

'jC 1 IEST-CLASS HOTEL, offering every comfort for an agreeable residence; 

.1 surrounded by a vast Park and a beautiful Garden, and admirably situated for excursions 
to the mountains. Reading, Billiard, and Smoking Rooms. Reduced prices for a prolonged 
stay. Horses and Carriages. Breakfast; Table-d’Hote. Private Dinners at any hour. English 
spoken. Landing place for Steamers. Telegraph Bureau. 


NUREMBERG. 


HOTEL DE B AY IE RE 

(BAYERISCHER, HOF). 

rpIlIS old-established, first-class, and best situated Hotel, in the 
1. centre of the town, close to the river, contains suites of apartments and 
single rooms, all elegantly furnished in the new style. It is patronised by the 
most distinguished families. English Divine Service during the season. Foreign 
newspapers. Carriages in the Hotel, Omnibus to and from each train. Moderate 
and fixed prices. 


GENEVA. 

Manufactory of Musical Boxes. 

SAMUEL TROLL FILS, 

WHOLESALE, RETAIL, EXPORTATION. 

6, RUE BONIVARD, 

GROUND FLOOR, NEAR THE ENGLISH CHURCH, GENEVA. 

DRESDEN. 

GRAND HOTEL DE SAXE. 

r rHIS celebrated First-class Hotel, kept by Mrs. DORN and 

-*• her SONS, has been recently enlarged and embellished. It contains 150 Front 
Rooms, and is situated in the centre of the town, at the New Square, in the 
immediate vicinity of all the curiosities. Table-d’Hote at one and four o'clock, 
in the splendid dining-hall first-floor. Carriages, Reading-room, with English 
and American Papers, and Smoking-room. Much reduced prices for the winter, 












1870. 


MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 


45 


DIEPPE. 

HOTEL R O Y A L, 

/ 

FACING THE BEACH, 

Close to the Bathing Establishment and the Parade. 


TT IS ONE OF THE MOST PLEASANTLY SITUATED HOTELS 
A IN DIEPPE, commanding a beautiful and extensive View of the 
Sea. 

Families and Gentlemen visiting Dieppe will find at this Establish¬ 
ment elegant Large and Small Apartments, and the best of accommo¬ 
dation, at very reasonable prices. Large Reading-room, with French 
and English Newspapers. 

The Refreshments, &c., are of the best quality. 

In fact, this Hotel fully bears out and deserves the favourable opinion 
expressed of it in Murray’s and other Guide Books. 

Table-cVEote and Private Dinners. 


NUREMBERG. 


RED HORSE HOTEL 

(Rothes Ross), 

Proprietor : M. P. GALIMBERTI. Manager: M. BAUER. 

rpHIS excellent old-established Hotel, situated in one of the best quarters of the 
X town, is well adapted for Tourists and Families making a visit to Nuremberg of 
some duration, and who will find every conceivable comfort and convenience. 
Table-d’Hote at 1 p.m., and Private Dinners at all hours. The Establishment 
will be found well worthy of the renown and patronage it has enjoyed from English 
travellers of the highest rank during many years. _ 

ZOUG. 

-- 

C TAG HOTEL. Near the Steamboat landing-place. 

Beautifully situated, and the best Hotel in the town. Moderate prices. 
A large and elegantly fitted-up Dining Hall. 

Board and Residence , 5 to 6 francs per day . 

BRUXELLES. 

THE GRAND HOTEL DE SAXE, Rub Neuve, 77 and 79, is 

A admirably situated close to the Boulevards and Theatres, and is the nearest Hotel to the 
Railway Stations. The Hotel is considerably enlarged, and has a new Dining-room which 
will contain 300 persons. Fixed prices:—Plain Breakfast, li franc; Dinner at the ruble- 
d’hfite 34 francs; Bedrooms, from 2 to 4 francs; Service, 1 franc; Sitting-rooms, 3 to ]2 
francs’; Steaks or Cutlets, If franc. Travellers must beware of coachmen and conductors of 
omnibuses who endeavour to drive them to some other hotel. 














16 


MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, 


VIENNA (AUSTRIA). 

-— ~+o+ - 

GRAND HOTEL. 9, KARNTIINER- RING. 

l^HIS splendid first-class Hotel has been newly built and furnished 
-L by Mr. Akthony Schneideii, tlie well-known late Proprietor of the “Archduke 
Charles” Hotel. It is most advantageously situated in a central and salubrious position on 
“ the Ring,” in the immediate vicinity of the new grand Opera House, and offers, both 
to Families and Single Persons, every possible accommodation, combined with elegarice and 
comfort. The “King” is the name of the new Boulevard that encircles the inner town, 
forming an avenue of stately palaces, superb edifices, and new establishments of every kind. 
It is also the fashionable promenade of the capital. 

The Grand Hotel contains 240 beds, large and small apartments, and single rooms, a 
Ladies’ Parlour supplied with Piano, also Reading, Smoking, and Billiard-rooms. Two 
large Dining Saloons; Hot and Cold Baths on every floor. Lifts for communication with 
each story; also a Telegraph Office corresponding with all countries. 

The Culinary Department and Wine Cellars furnish everything that is exquisite and 
excellent. For further information applications to be addressed to— 

Mr. ANTHONY SCHNEIDER, Vienna, Austria. 


BARCELONA, 


GRAND HOTEL DEB -QUATRE NATIONS. 

IN THE RAMBLA. 

Kept by Messrs. FORTIS & CO. 

r PHIS is a first-rate Establishment, advantageously situated close to 

-L the Post-office and the Theatre, with a southern aspect, and newly decorated. Table- 
d’bbte; private service; large and small apartments; many fire-places; baths; reading- 
rooms ; Spanish and foreign newspapers. Carriages of every description. Omnibus at the 
Railway Stations. Interpreters. Moderate terms. 


GENEVA. 


A. MALIGN ON, 8 , GRAND QUAI, 

One of the oldest Manufacturing Establishments in Geneva. 

SPECIALITY FOR WARRANTED CHRONOMETERS. 

Plain and Complicated Watches for Ladies and Gentlemen, winding up with 

or without a key. All warranted. 

EXTENSIVE ASSORTMENT OF JEWELRY. 

REMOVED FROM RUE DE LA CORRATERIE, 6. 

H O MBU RG. 

HOTEL DES QIJATRE SAISONS. 

ME. SCHLOTTEEBECIv, Proprietor. 
r PHIS Hotel is of the first class, and enjoys a well-merited reputation. 
J- It is situated near the Sources and the Cursaal. Excellent Table-d’Hote and Wines; 
the Proprietor is a large dealer in',Wines; and endeavours to make the stay of his patrons as 
comfortable and pleasant as possible. 

















1870. 


MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 


4? 


MILAN. 

Hotel Cavour, Place Cavour, 

Just opposite the Public Gardens. 

KEPT BY J. SUARDI AND CO. 

•UHIS first-rate Hotel is fitted up with every modem appliance, and situated in the finest 
X part of Milan. It commands a fine view of the Promenade near to the Station, the Grand 
Theatre, the National Museum, and the Protestant Church. Excellent Table-d’hote. Charges 
very moderate. Baths on each floor. A Smoking and a Reading Room supplied with foreign 
newspapers. 

Omnibus of the Hotel at the arrival of all trains. 


INTERLACHEN. 

HOTEL DE TbELLE VUE, 

Kept by Mr. HERMANN RIMPS. 

I EXCELLENT Second-class Hotel, very well situated, containing 1 a 

branch “ Pension Felsenogg,” with a fine Garden attached to it. Boarders taken in, per 
day 54- francs during the months of May, June, September, October; and 64 francs per 
day during the months of July and August. English, French, and German Newspapers. 
Omnibuses; Private Carriages, and Saddle Horses. English spoken. Moderate charges. 


INTERLAKEN. 

— ■ ■ ♦ 

Hotel and Pension J ungtrau. 

Proprietor, Mr. F. SEILER. 

^pUIIS excellent Hotel is situated on the finest Promenade, and is surrounded with 
I a large and beautiful Garden, from which an extensive view is to be had all over the 
Glaciers. English travellers will find at this Hotel large and small well-furnished apartments 
and rooms for families and single tourists. Moderate charges. 


YOUNG GENTLEMEN, 

WHOSE PARENTS wish 

H to go Abroad, are received for 
BOARD, and EDUCATION, by Rev. 
Robert Thomson, Graduate of the 
London and Edinburgh Universities, at 
12, Rutland Square, Edinburgh. 


EXETER. 

ROYAL CLARENCE HOTEL, 

CATHEDRAL YARD. 

LADIES’ COFFEE ROOM. 

Ilot and Cold Baths . 

W. BIRKETT, Proprietor. 


BELLAGIO, LAKE OF COMO. 


HOTEL AND PENSION VILLA GIULA 

(CHATEAU DU ROI DES BELGES). 

rpHE undersigned has the honour to announce that the 
JL maonificent VILLA GIULIA has been turned into an Hotel, and will be 
opened on the 1st of APRIL next. The beautiful situation of the Palace, which 
commands a view of the two arms of the Lake, its park of 250 hectares, and the 
size of its gardens, together with the comfort which the long experience of the 
Proprietor enables him to give, cannot fail to render it an agreeable abode to 
travellers who will favour it with a visit. 

A. M ELL A, 

Proprietor and Manager of the Hotel Grande-Buetagne, Bellaqio. 1 




















48 


MURRAY’S HANDBOOK AD\ IRTISER. 


Mav, 

J 7 


VEVAY (Switzerland). 

HOTEL M O NNE r J.\ 

Bit des 3 Couronnes. 

Messrs. SCHOTT & CO., Proprietors, and Successors to Mr. Monnet. 
f [PHIS Large and First-class Establishment, situated close to 
-*- the Lake, affords superior accommodation for Families and Gentlemen. It is 
extensively patronised for its comfort and cleanliness. Persons remaining some 
time will find this a most desirable Residence; and from October 15 to June 1 
they can live here moderately en pension. 


DIEPPE. 

HOTEL DE~S BAINS 

(MORGAN), 

TRACING the Sea and Baths, of the Highest Class, quiet, 

thoroughly recommendabie, A large pi ivate House also on the beach for Families. 

aktwerpT 

H O TEL X> E 3L. ? JEJ 'IT JE& O 1? E, 

Next to the Pont Office. 

THE MOST AGREEABLE SITUATION IN THE TOWN. 

Formerly Hotel du Pare. 

1 PHIS Hotel has been rebuilt, a magnificent Salle a manger added, as well as many Bed 

1 and Sitting Rooms, entirely new fundated and redecorated ; and the present Proprietor spares no exertion 
to render it one of the most popular hotels on the Continent. Excellent Table-d’Hote. Hot and Cold Bath:. 
Stabling and Coach-House. English and French Newspapers. 

ANTWERP 

XX OTEL .O .IE 3L. .A. I* .A. X !X. 

jN the centre of the town, in close proximity to the Cathedral, the 
L Exchange, Theatres, &c. This Hotel, formerly the HOTEL DES BAYS BAS, has been 
entirely rebuilt and newly furnished. No pains will be spared by the present Proprietors to 
render it worthy of tiie patronage of the travelling public. First-class Table-d’Hote. 
Choice Cellar of Wines. English and Foreign Newspapers. 


WIES8 DAD EN. 

BLACK BEAR HOTEL AND BATHS. 

OTTO FREYTAG, Proprietor. 

SCRUPULOUS CLEANLINESS, ATTENTIVE SERVICE, AND MODERATE 

CHARGES. 

Central Situation—Close to the Mineral Springs, the Theatre, the Conversation 
House, and the Charming Promenades. Contains 140 Rooms and Saloons, 
elegantly furnished; GO neatly fitted-up Bathing Cabinets, spacious. Dining-Rooms, 
and Ladies’ Parlour. Table d' Hole at 1 and 5 o'clock, and Private Dinner? 1 1| 

Exquisite Wines. English, French, and German Papers. Visitors Boarded 
during the Winter Months. 

SEVl LLE (SPAIN). 

H OTEL DE LON)) RES.—This highly-recommended Hotel is situated 

- on the Plaza Nueva, the most central and beautiful part of this delightful citv. Tra¬ 
vellers will find here every accommodation for families and single gentlemen. Splendid 
dining-room, fine sitting-rooms, clean bed-rooms, and excellent attendance. French and 
English newspapers. Baths, carriages, &c. English, French, and Italian spoken 















1870. 


MURRAY3J HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 


40 



P ARR’S LIFE PILLS KEEP PEOPLE in 

GOOD HEALTH and make them CHEERFUL and 
HEARTY. Persons suffering from Headache, Liver Com¬ 
plaints, Bilious Ailments, Skin Eruptions, Lowness of Spirits, 
Costiveness, Gout, Lumbago, <fcc.. are particularly recom¬ 
mended to try PARR’S LIFE PILLS. They have 
never been known to fail in affording immediate relief. 


Mr. William Saunoekson, Captain of the Schooner Mary 
Maria, of Newcastle-on-Tyne, says that “since he com¬ 
menced taking Park's Pills he has gained eleven pounds 
in weight, looks younger, and feels better in every way.— 
Jan 20tb, 1868.” 


PARR’S Lib t, PiLLS may be obtained of any Medicine Vendor, in boxes, Is. 1 id., 2s. 9 il., 

and in Family Packets, Us. each. 


VIENNA. 

FOR OPTICAL INSTRUMENTS, OPERA GLASSES, &c. 

» THE ESTABLISHMENT OF 

JOS. NEUHOEFER (late Cm G ross & Co.), 

1149, KOHLMARKT, VIENNA, 

Manufacturer of Double Opera Glasses with six, eight, and twelve lenses, on a 
invention and -newest construction , to be used for the theatre, travelling, and the 
field, Telescopes for the Army and Navy, Racing Glasses, and all other kinds of 
Optical and Mathematical Instruments. 

LYNTON, NORTH DEVON. 

THE VALLEY OF LOCKS HOTEL. 

JOHN CROOK, Proprietor. 

-- 

The above well-known Hotel has lately had extensive alterations, additions and improve¬ 
ments. it contains all the appointments of a First-Class Establishment. 

Charges strictly moderate. Situation unrivalled. Splendid views of Land and Sea. 

Handsome Coffee Rooms. 

Most conveniently situate as a centre for visiting all the places of interest in the district. 

Post Horses and Carriages.—Stables and Coach Houses. 

Coaches during the season to Ilfracombe, Barnstaple, and the West Somerset Railway. 

GENEVA. 

-» . 

A. MAUCHAIN, 32 Grand Quai, 

MANUFACTURER OF SWISS WOOD CABVINGS, 
ALSO A VERY LARGE CHOICE OF ALL KINLS OF MUSICAL 
SURPRISES IN CARVED WOODS. 

4 MEDALS. 

F 



















50 


MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 


May, 

VIENNA (Austria). 

HOTEL “ ARCHDUKE CHARLES.” 

Kept by M. JOSEF ZIMMEBMANN, 

The new Proprietor. 

rjTHIS First-class Hotel, situated in the best part of Vienna, 1 
lias been greatly improved in modern comfort, recherche 
cuisine and excellent service at moderate charges. The 
Landlord will spare no trouble to maintain its ancient repu-‘ 
tation, and to give satisfaction to the travelling Gentry and 
Nobility. 

GENOA. 


HOTEL DES QUATRE NATIONS. 


OEVASCO BROTHERS, Proprietors. 


mHIS Hotel can be strongly recommended: it is in one of the best 
situations in Genoa, and travellers will find there very good rooms, 
moderate charges, cleanliness, excellent Table-d’hote, as well as private, 
service, with great attention and civility ; the comfort of visitors being 
consulted. 


English spoken by the Proprietor . 










1870. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 51 

FRANKFORT O. M. 


FRIEDRICH- BOHLER, 

ZEIL, No. 54, 

NEXT DOOR TO THE POST OFFICE. 

•PRIZE MEDAL, LONDON. 



TVE^ISrTJ^-^GTO^l.r OJ? 


CARVED STAGHORN AND IVORY ORNAMENTS, 


CARVED WOOD WORK (Vieuxchene) Furniture & Fancy Objects, 


(Hocks. jCanips, ironies, (fbiiur, JOmcg Articles of efuerg Description. 

SPECIALITIES OE GERMAN ARTICLES. 

Vienna Bronzes, Marquetry, Leather and Meerschaum Goods, Travelling 

Articles, Toilette Requisites, etc., etc. 

SUPERIOR COPIES OF THE ARIADNE BY DANNICKER. 

Genuine Eau de Cologne of Jean Marie Farina , opposite the Jiilichsplatz. 

FIXED PRICES. 

The Agents in London are Messrs. J. and R. McCracken, 38, Queen Street, 

Cannon Street West. 






















































































































MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 


Ala)*, 


THE 

NATIONAL PROVINCIAL BANK of ENGLAND 

ESTABLISHED' IN THE YEAR 1833. 


Head Office—BISHOPSG ATE STREET, corner of THREADNEEDLE STREET. 
St. James’ Branch—14, WATERLOO PLACE, PALL MALL. 

St. Marylebone „ 28, BAKER STREET. 

Islington „ 173, UPPER STREET. 


Capital. 

SUBSCRIBED CAPITAL . 

PAID-UP CAPITAL . 

RESERVE FUND . 

No. of SHAREHOLDERS ... 



£ 2 , 100,000 0 0 
1,080,000 0 0 
268,231 0 1 

2,189. 


IBtrcct 0 r£. 


Right Hon. Lord Ernest Augustus Charles 

v Brudenell Bruce, M.P., \7, St. George’s j 
Place, Hyde Park Corner, S.W. 

John Oliver Hanson, Esq., 4, Dorset 
Square. 

John Kingston, Esq., 6, Crosby Square. 

Henry M’Ciilery, Esq., 16, Leadenhall 
Street. 

William James Maxwell, Esq., Rich¬ 
mond, Surrey, S.W. 

Henry„Paull, Esq., 33, Devonshire Place, 
Portland Place, W. 


Sir James Sibbald David Scott, Bart., 
Cosham House, Cosham. 

Richard Blaney Wade, Esq., 13, Seymour 
Street, Portman Square, W. 

Hon. Eliot Thomas Yorke, 15, Park 
Street, Grosvenor Square, W. 

Duncan Macdonald, Esq., Weybank Lodge, 
Guildford, Surrey, and 21, Birchin Lane. 

George Han bury Field, Esq., Oakfield, 
Penshurst, Kent. 

Alex. Robertson, Esq.,20, Grafton Street, 
Berkeley Square, VV., and the College, 
Elgin, N.B. 


The National Provincial Bank of England, having numerous branches in England and 
Wales, as well as agents and correspondents at home and abroad, affords great facilities to 
parties transacting Banking business with it in London. Customers keeping accounts with 
the Bank in town may have moneys paid to their credit at its various branches, and remitted 
free of charge. 

Current accounts conducted at the Head Office and Metropolitan Branches on the usual 
terms of London Banks. 

Deposits at interest received in London of sums of 107. and upwards, for which receipts are 
granted, called “ Deposit Receiptsand interest allowed according to the value of money 
from time to time as advertised by the Bank in the newspapers. 

The Agency of Country and Foreign Banks, whether Joint Stock or Private, is undertaken. 

Purchases and Sales effected in all British and Foreign Stocks; and Dividends, Annuities, 
&c„, received for customers. 

Circular Notes and Letters of Credit are issued for the use of Travellers on the Continent 
and elsewhere. 

The Officers of the Bank are bound to secrecy as regards the transactions of its customers. 

Copies of the last Annual Report of the Bank, Lists of Shareholders, Branches, Agents, 
and Correspondents, may be had on application at the Head Office, and at any of the Bank’s 
Branches. 

By order of the Directors, 

E. ATKINSON, > Joint 
WM. IJOLT, ) General Managers. 


March 18T0. 














MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER 


1870. 




PENZANCE, CORNWALL. 


MOUNT’S BAY HOUSE, 

ESPLANADE, PENZANCE, CORNWALL, 

Has been erected and fitted up expressly as a 

SEASIDE 

FAMILY HOTEL & SUPERIOR LODGING-HOUSE. 

XTO expense or labour has been spared by the Proprietor, 
-t 1 The house is furnished in the most modern style, is well supplied with Hot 
and Cold Baths, and replete with every accommodation suitable for Tourists to 
West Cornwall. 

All the Drawing Rooms command an uninterrupted and unsurpassed \iew of that 

• Beauteous gem set in the silver sea,' 

St. Michael’s Mount, and the whole of the magnificent Bay. 

Invalids will find in Mount’s Bay House the comforts of a home, while the 
beauty and salubrity of the situation, and its nearness to the charming walks on 
the sea-shore, render it a healthy and delightful residence. 

Suites of apartments for families of distinction. 

Choice Wines and Ales. Post Horses and Carriages. Charges moderate. 

E. LAYIN, Proprietor. 


From 

5 G-roschen 
to more 
than a 
100 Thaler 
a-piece. 


DRESDEN. 




All Orders 
will be 
executed 
in the 

t 

shortest 

time. 


GEORG KOPPA, at Dresden, 

30, Suliloss Street, 30. 

MANUFACTORY AND MAGAZINE OF 

PIPES AND CIGARHOLDERS 

IN 

GENUINE MEERSCHAUM AND GENUINE AMBER. 








54 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, 

VENICE. 

——— 

GRAND HOTEL VICTORIA. 

(Formerly REGINA D’INGHILTERRA.) 

ROBERT ETZENSBERGER, Manager. 


fjpHE largest and finest Hotel in Venice, most conveniently 
situated near the Piazza S. Marco and the principal Theatres. 180 Bed¬ 
rooms, Private Sitting-rooms, Reading-room, with Piano, Billiard-room, and 
Smoking-room. Baths of every description, great comfort and cleanliness. Service 
on the Swiss system. Charges more moderate than in any other first-class Hotel. 


Arrangements for Pension. 

English spoken by all the Servants. 


CONSTANTINOPLE. 

HOTEL DANGLETERRE. 

JAMES MISSIRIE, Proprietor. 

r ]PHIS long-established and well-known Hotel, situated in 
JL the GRAND RUE DE PERA, commanding a magnificent view of the 
UNRIVALLED BOSPHORUS, is replete with every comfort and convenience for 
the Accommodation of Families and Tourists. 

A Select Table-d’Hote. 

In consequence of the largely increasing number of Visitors to the OTTOMAN 
CAPITAL, from the facility with which it can now be reached from all parts of 
Europe, and Passengers who select this agreeable Route to and from INDIA and 
the EAST, it is requested that Families desirous of securing Rooms telegraph or 
write in anticipation. Every attention will be paid to instructions thus transmitted. 

CAREFULLY SELECTED INTERPRETERS FOR ALL 

LANGUAGES. 

The Attendants and Boats of the Hotel await the arrival of the Steamers. 









1870. 


MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER 


55 



DORRELL & SON’S 

PAS8PORT AGENCY, 

15, CHARING CROSS, S.W. 

Every Information given respecting Travelling on the Continent. 

French and Italian spoken, and Correspondence carried on in either Language. 


British Subjects visit¬ 
ing the Continent will 
save trouble and expense 
by obtaining their bass- 
ports through the above 
Agency. No personal 
attendance is required, 
and country residents 
may have their Pass¬ 
ports forwarded through 
the post. A ‘ Passport 
Prospectus,’ containing 
every particular in de- 



^ tail, by post, on applica¬ 
tion. 

Passports Mounted, 
and enclosed In Cases, 
with the name of the 
bearer impressed in gold 
on the outside; thus af¬ 
fording security against 
injury or loss, and pre¬ 
venting delay in the 
frequent examination of 
the Passport when tra¬ 
velling. 


Fee, Obtaining Passport, Is.; Visas, Is. each. Cases, Is. 6d. to 5'. each. 


THE LATEST EDITIONS OF MURRAY’S HANDBOOKS. 

English and Foreign Stationery, Dialogue Books, Couriers’ Bags, Pocket- 
books and Purses of every description, Travelling Inkstands, and a va¬ 
riety of other Articles useful for Travellers. 


CARTON DE VAUD, BEX (Switzerland). 


GRAND HOTEL DES SALINES, 

Kept by L. FELLER. 

. \ 

Opened on 1st May, 18^0. 

HYDROPATHY, RUSSIAN BATHS, TURKISH BATHS. 

SALOON FOR PULVERISED SPRAY BATHS OF 
VARIOUS MINERAL WATERS. 

Established after the newest and most perfect systems known. 
Consulting’ Doctor . DR. COSSY, 

LATELY BOUSE SUltGEOK TO THE PARTS HOSPITAL. 




























MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 


May, 


ALEXANDRIA. 

THE BULKELEY HOTEL, 

RAMLE, 

IN THE ENVIRONS OF ALEXANDRIA. 

AN ENGLISH HOTEL IN EGYPT. 

' y- r./N/v r./i r-./.A.AA/'..'', «• 

One of the best hotels, and well adapted 
for Invalids seeking to recruit their health. 
It is considered the sanitarium of a warm 
climate. Idas a large Garden, and is situated 
near the sea, facilitating bathing. 

Saline Baths on the premises. 

Mosquito curtains not required, which 

speaks volumes. 

* / 

TERMS MODERATE. 


Railway communication to and from Alexandria 
every Half Hour, at very Low Fares. 






1870. 


MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 


BY ROYAL COMMAND. 

JOSEPH GILLOTT ’ S 

CELEBRATED 

STEEL PENS. 

Sold by all Dealers throughout the World. 


Every Packet bears the Fac-similc 
of his Signature, 


57 



GENEVA. 

A. GOLAY, GERESCH & SONS, 

31, Quai des Berques , and 1, Place du Port, 

MANUFACTURERS OF WATCHES AND JEWELRY. 

Two large Establishments, completely furnished with goods of the newest designs'. 
Warranted Watches of all kinds, especially of Chronometers and with complex 
movements. Also a very large assortment of Jewelry. 

House in Paris, No. 2, RUE DE LA PAIX. 

CHAMONIX. 

♦ —■ 

HOTELS—IMPERIAL, ROYAL ANGLETERRE, 
LONDRES, UNION, PALAIS DE CRISTAL. 
and COURONNE, 

All belonging to the same Company, and under the direction of 

Mr. E. CHEISTIAENS. 


PE SION TILL THE 15th JULY. 






























58 


MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, 


GENEVE. 


PENSION PIC AUD, 

QUAI DES EATJX VIVES, 12. 

Facing the Lake and Jardin xlnglais, admirably situated , well heft , 
reasonable prices and superior cuisine. 

WITH DINNERS APART IF DESIRED. 


GENEVA (Switzerland). 

- •<>•- 

GRAND HOTEL DE RTJSSIE. 

No. 1, QTJAI DU MONT BLANC, No. 1. 

PIE,SO?-CLASS HOTEL. 

HPHIS new Hotel, with rooms furnished in the finest style, 

JL private and public gardens, situated in the centre of the city, opposite the 
Pont de Mont Blanc, Steamer Landings, near the English Church and Post Office, 
commands the most beautiful view of Mont Blanc, the Lake of Geneva, and the 
surrounding country, 

TABLE d'HOTE AT 1 and 5 O’CLOCK. 

Arrangements made with Families during the Winter months at reasonable prices. 

READING AND SMOKING ROOMS. 

Omnibuses at each Train FREE OF CHARGE. 


THE NEW REGISTERED M OURNI NG STATIONERY. 

THE OXFORD NOTE PAPER & ENVELOPES. 

Entered at Stationers’ Hall. 

Each sheet of paper or Envelope bordered as Illustrated 
after the pattern of Oxford frames. 

SOLD BY ALL STATIONERS. 

Wholesale and for Exportation of the Sole Manufacturers, 

TERRY, STOTTEMAN, & Co., 

Wholesale Stationers, 

6 & 82, Hatton Garden, Holborn Circus, London, E.C. 


*** Agents for the supply of English Goods on the 
Continent and in the Colonies. 




DINNEFORBS 

SOLUTIOCpOF 

BSlfli — " 


THE best Remedy for Acidity of 
the Stomach, Heartburn, Headache, 
Gout, and Indigestion; and the best mild 
aperient for delicate constitutions, es¬ 
pecially adapted for Ladies, Children, and 
infants. 


DINNEFORD & Co., 172, New Bond Street; and of all Chemists throughout the world. 







































1870 


MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 


59 


BOOKS AND MAPS FOR TRAVELLERS. 


The High Alps without Guides; being a Narrative of 

Adventures in Switzerland, together with Chapters n the Practicability of such mode of 
.Mountaineering, and Suggestions tor its Accomplishment,. By the Rev. A. G. Girdle- 
stonk, M.A., late Demy in Natural Science, Magdalen College, Oxford. With Frontispiece 
aud Iwo Maps. Square crown 8vo., price 7s. 6 d. 

The Alpine Guides. By John Ball, M.K.I.A., late 

President of the Alpine Club. With Maps, Panoramas of Summits, and other Illustrations. 
In Three Parts or Volumes, post 8vo.:— 

Guide to the Eastern Alps, price 10s. 6c/. 

Guide to the Western Alps, including Mont Blanc, Monte 

Rosa, Zermatt, &c., price 6s. 6 d. 

Guide to the Central Alps, including all the Oberland 

District, price 7s. 6d. 

Introduction on Alpine Travelling in general and on 

the Geology of the Alps. Price One Shilling. Each of the Three Volumes or Parts of 
the Alpine, Guide may be had with this 1 ntkoduction prefixed, price One Shilling extra. 

Guide to the Pyrenees, for the Use of Mountaineers. By 

Charles Packe. Second Edition, corrected; with Frontispiece and Map, and an 
Appendix. Crown 8vo., price 7s. (>d. 

Map of the Chain of Mont Blanc, from an Actual 

Survey in 1863-1864. By A. Adams-Reii.lt, F.R.G.S., M.A.C. In Chromo-lithography 
on extra stout Drawing Paper 28 inches by 17 inches, price 10s. To be had also mounted 
on Canvas, in a folding case, price 12s. 6a. 

Map of the Valpelline, the Val Tournanche, and the 

Southern Valleys of the Chain of MONTE ROSA, from an actual Survey in 1865-D66. 
By A. A dams- Reilly, F.R.G.S., M.A.C. In Chromo-lithography, on extra stout Drawing 
Paper, 25 inches by 14 inches, price 6s. To be had also mounted on Canvas, folded anti 
jointed, for Pocket or Knapsack, price 7s. 6d. 

Westward by Rail: The NEW ROUTE to the EAST. By 

W. F. Rae. A Reprint, with Additions, from the Daily News, of Letters about the 
Pacific Railway, the Mormons, and California. In One Volume, post 3vo. 

[Nearly Beady. 

England to Delhi: a Narrative of Indian Travel. By John 

Mathkson, Glasgow. With a Map and Eighty-two Illustrations engraved on Wood 
(Twelve full size of page). Imperial 8vo., price 31s. 6cZ. 

Travels in the Central Caucasas and Bashan, including 

Visits to Ararat and Tabreez and Ascents of Kazbek and Elbruz. By Douglas W. 
FkesHFIfxd. With 3 Map?, 2 Panoramas of Summits, 4 full-page. Wood Engravings, 
and 16 Woodcuts. Square crown 8vo., price 18s. 

Cadore, or Titian’s Country. By Josiah Gilbert, one of 

the Authors of the ‘ Dolomite Mountains.’ With Map, Facimile, and 40 Illustrations. 
Imperial 8vo., price 31s. 6 d. 

The Dolomite Mountans: Excursions through Tyrol, 

Carintbia, Carniola, and Friuli. By J. Gilbert and G. C. Churchill, F.R.G.S. With 
numerous Illustrations. Square crown 8vo., price 21s. 

LONDON: LONGMANS, GREEN & CO., PATERNOSTER ROW. 






60 


MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, 


GENEVA. 

NO. 2, PLACE DES BERGUES. 


GEO. BAKER, 

ENGLISH CHEMIST AND DRUGGIST, 

PRESCRIPTIONS CAREFULLY PREPARED. 

ALL KINDS OF PATENT MEDICINES & PERFUMERY. 

Homoeopathic Preparations. Soda and Saratoga Water. 

Medicines and Preparations forwarded with the greatest despatch and 
safety to all parts of Switzerland by Post. 


ROME. 

17 & 18, VIA DELLA MEKCEDE. 


GEO. BAKER, 

ENGLISH CHEMIST, GENEVA, 

INFORMS the Inhabitants and Visitors of Rome that he has opened an 
Establishment at the above address, for the supply of English specialities 
and goods adapted for the use of Families at prices far inferior to those 
hitherto charged in Rome. 


NICE. 


PHARMACIE DANIEL ET C 1K - 

QUAI MASSENA. 


GEO. BAKER, 

ENGLISH CHEMIST OI' (GENEVA, 

INFORMS the Visitors and Residents of Nice, that he has succeeded to 
the above old established and justly renowned Pharmacy, and that having 
associated with him Mr. GEORGE BUSBY, Avho for nine years past has 
been Assistant Manager of it, he hopes by careful attention and a moderate 
Scale of Charges, not only to maintain, hut to extend, its ancient and well 
deserved reputation. 


















1870 


MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 


01 


VIS ITORS TO NAPLES. 


GENERAL AGENCY & COMMISSION OFFICE of the BRITISH LIBRARY 

(Established in 1837 by Mrs. Dorant ), 

DIRECTED BY , 

! GEORGE CIVALLERI, 

Palazzo Friozzi, No. 267, Riviera di Chiaja. 

WORKS OF ART, GOODS, AND LUGGAGE 

forwarded to and received from all parts of the world, and warehoused at moderate charges 

of rent. 

BANK BILLS, CIRCULAR NOTES, AND LETTERS OF CREDIT 

cashed free of commission. 

COUNTRY WINES OP EVERY DESCRIPTION, 

both in Bottle and in Cask, for exportation, at reduced prices. 

FOREIGN WINES, ENGLISH BEERS, TEAS, Sfc., IMPORTED. 

Agency Business of every description attended to; also the PURCHASE of LANDS, 
HOUSES, or VILLAS for the account of Foreigners. 

Correspondents ( Messrs. OLIVIER & CO., 37, Finsbury Square. 

in London \ Messrs. CHARLES CARR & Co., 14, Bishopsgate Street, 

FLORENCE. 

12, ZLiTTHSra-’ ABHO UTTOYO. 

MONTELATIGI BROTHERS, 

Ittanufactums of Florentine tttosaics. 

ASSORTMENT OF CASKETS AND ALBUMS. 

COMMISSIONS AND EXPORTATION. 


VERONA.. 


HOTEL C0L0MBA D’ORO, 

NBAS THE 

AMPHITHEATRE ARENA. 

Hood Accomodation at Moderate Prices. 
F PROPRIETOR, 

FRANCESCO BRANCA. 


ESSENTIALS 

FOR 

TRA VELL ING-. 

Thresher’s India Tweed Suits. 
Thresher’s Kashmir Flannel Shirts. 
Thresher’s Kashmir Woollen Socks. 
Thresher’s Coloured Flannel Shirts. 
Thresher’s Travelling Bags. 

SOLD ONLY BY 

TIIRESHEK & GLENNY, 

NEXT DOOR TO SOMERSET HOUSE, 

STRAND. 

















62 


MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER, 


May, 


THE FURNISHING OF BED-ROOMS. 


HEAL & SON have 16 separate Iiooms, each completely furnished with 
a different Suite of Furniture, irrespective of their general Stock displayed 
in Six Galleries and Two Large Ground-floor Warerooms, the whole 
forming the most complete stock of Bed-room Furniture in the Kingdom. 

Japanned Deal Goods may be seen in complete suites of five or six 
different colours, some of them light and ornamental, and others of a 
plainer description. Suites of Stained Deal Gothic Furniture, Polished 
Deal, Oak, and Walnut, are also set apart for separate rooms, so that 
customers are able to see the effect as it would appear in their own rooms. 
A Suite of very superior Gothic Oak Furniture will generally be kept in 
stock, and from time to time new and select Furniture in various woods 
will be added. 

Bed Furnitures are fitted to the Bedsteads in large numbers, so that a 
coippletc assortment may be seen, and the effect of any particular pattern 
ascertained as it would appear on the Bedstead. 

A very large stock of Bedding (HEAL & SON’S original trade) is 
placed on the BEDSTEADS. 

The Stock of Mahogany Goods for the better Bed-rooms, and Japanned 
Goods for plain and Servants’ use, is very greatly increased. The entire 
Stock is arranged in sixteen rooms, six galleries, each 120 feet long, and 
large ground-floors, the whole forming as complete an assortment of Bed¬ 
room Furniture as they think can possibly be desired. 

Every attention is paid to the manufacture of the Cabinet work, and 
they have large Workshops on the premises for this purpose, that the 
manufacture may be under their own immediate care. 

Their Bedding trade receives their constant and personal attention, 
every article being made on the premises. 

They particularly call attention to their Patent Spring Mattrass, the 
Sommier Elastique Portatif. It is portable, durable, a nd elastic, and lower 
in price than the old Spring Mattrass. 


HEAL AND SON’S 

ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE OF 

BEDSTEADS, BEDDING, & BED-ROOM FURNITURE, 

SENT FREE BY POST. 

196, 197, 198, TOTTENHAM COURT ROAD. 






1870 


MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 


63 


BRUSSELS. 


HOTEL 1)E BELLE VUE. 

Proprietor, Mr. EDWARD DREMEL. 

r JpHIS magnificent Hotel, in offering to the Visitor every 
kind of comfort and accommodation, has the great advantage of 
being situated adjoining 

THE PALACE OF THE KING, 

and facing 

THE PLACE ROYALE AND THE PARK. 

It contains numerous large and small Apartments, as well as single 
Kooms. 

Table-cFHote, richly served. Choice Wines. 

% 

SMOKING ROOM. 

READING ROOM, with the best Ifielgiati, English, French, 
Gmtmii, ancl American Daily Papers and Periodicals. 

Terraces, with Splendid View overlooking the Park, 

ARRANGEMENTS MADE FOR THE WINTER. 


Mr. Dremel, the new Proprietor of this Hotel, hopes to justify the 
confidence placed in him, by a carefully arranged system of prompt and 
civil attendance, combined with moderate charges. 









C+ MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, 

AIX LES BAINS. 

♦ 

GRAND HOTEL DE L’EUROPE. 

PKOPEIETOK, J. BERNASCON. 

First-class house—admirably situated near the Casino, the 
Baths, and the English Church. This Hotel is strongly recom¬ 
mended to travellers for the comfort of its arrangements. Good 
gardens, with a beautiful view of the Lake and Mountains. 
Large and small apartments for Families at moderate prices, 
and a Chalet in the garden for Families who may prefer being 
out of the Hotel. Excellent Table-d’Hote. 

Carriages for hire, and an Omnibus belonging to the Hotel 

to meet every Train. 


ANTWERP. 

HOTEL Dll GRAND LABOUREUR, 

PLACE DE MEIR, 26. 


This old-established and highly-recommended Hotel, which 
has been considerably enlarged, is situated in the finest and 
healthiest square of the city of Antwerp; its cleanliness and 
the excellency of the Table-d’Hote and Wines, added to the 
attention and civility shown to all visitors, have made it 
deservedly popular. 


HOT AND COLD BATHS. 

ENGLISH AND FRENCH NEWSPAPERS. 
















BIEMIN GHAM 


1870. 


MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 


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MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 


May, 1870. 


ESTABLISHED 183 3. 

THE ORIGINAL GUIDE:^TRAVELLERS’ DEPOT, 

AND 

^Passport mtb <&a\xxux*' 

LEE & CARTER, 


440, WEST STRAND, LONDON 


(Nearly opposite the Charing Cross Hotel). 



KNAPSACKS PORTMANTEAUX BAGS 


STIFF OR LIMP. OF ALL PATTERNS. OF ALL KINDS. 


Intending Tourists are respectfully invited to visit this Establishment 
before making purchases for their journey. 

AN EXTENSIVE STOCK OF TRAVELLERS’ REQUISITES TO SELECT FROM:— 
Guide Books (in pocket bindings). 


Maps and Plans of all Parts. 
Foreign Dictionaries. 
Dialogues and Grammars. 
Polyglott Washing Bojks. 
Journals and Diaries. 

Pocket Books and Note Cases. 
Purses, Sov. and Nap. Cases. 
Money Belts and Bags. 
Writing Cases and Blotters. 
Ink Stands and Light Boxes. 
Foreign Stationery. 

Travelling Chess Boards, &c. 
Knives, Scissors, & Corkscrews. 
Barometers & Thermometers. 
Field Glasses & Compasses. 
Eye Preservers and Spectacles. 
Railway Rugs and Straps. 


Hat Cases and Bonnet Boxes. 
Luggage Straps and Labels. 
Travelling Lamps. 

Camp Candlesticks. 

Flasks and Drinking Cups. 
Sandwich Cases. 

Luncheon Baskets. 

Dressing Cases & Housewives. 
Soap and Brush Boxes. 

Sponge and Sponge Bags. 
Baths and Air Cushions. 
Waterproofs. 

Camp Stools and Leg Rests. 
Portable Closet Seats. 

Etnas for boiling water. 

Door Fasteners. 

Combs, Brushes, and Mirrors. 
Glycerine and Insect Powder. 


London: Printed by William Ci.owks and Sons, Stamford Street and Charing Cross. 




















































































MURRAY’S HOME AND COLONIAL LIBRARY. 


A Eence of Works selected for their acknowledged interest and ability of the Author* 
and adapted for all circles and classes of Headers. Post Svo. Published at 2a, and 
3s. 6d. each, and arranged under two distinctive heads as follows:_ 


CLASS A 


HISTORY, BIOGRAPHY, 

1. THE SIEGE OF GIBRALTAR. By 

John Drink water. 2s. 

2. THE AMBER-WITCH. Translated 

from the German. 2s. 

3. CROMWELL AND BUNYAN. 

By Robert Southey. 2i. 

4. LIFE OF SIR FRANCIS DRAKE. 

By John Baruow. 

5. CAMPAIGNS AT WASHINGTON. 

By Rev. G. R. Gleiq. 2s. 

6. THE FRENCH IN ALGIERS. From 

the German and French. 2s. 

7. FALL OF THE JESUITS. 2s. 

8. LIVONIAN TALES. By a Lady. 2s. 

9. LIFE OF TILE GREAT COND& 

By Lord Mahon. 3s. 6d. 

10. SALE’S BRIGADE IN AFGHANIS¬ 

TAN. By Rev. G. R. Gleiq. 2*. 

11. THE TWO SIEGES OF VIENNA. 

By Lord Ellesmere. 2s. 


AND HISTORIC TALES. 

12. THE WAYSIDE CROSS. A Tale. 

By Capt. Milman. 2s. 

13. THE LIBERATION WAR IN GER¬ 

MANY. Translated by Sir A. 
Gordon. 3s. 6tf. 

14. THE STORY OF THE BATTLE OF 

WATERLOO. By Rev. G. R. 
Gleiq. 3s. Cd. 

15. AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF HENRY 

STEFFENS. 2s. 

1G. LIVES OF THE BRITISH POETS. 
By Thomas Campbell. 3s. 6d. 

17- HISTORICAL ESSAYS. By Lord 
Mahon. 3s. 6d. 

IS. LIFE OF LORD CLIVE. By Rev. 
G. R. Glkio. 3s. 6d. 

19. STOKERS AND POKERS: or The 

North-Westekn Railway. By Sir 
F. B. Head. 2s. 

20. LIFE OF GENERAL MUNRO. By 

Rev. G. R. Gleiq. 3s. 6d. 


CLASS B. 

VOYAGES, TRAVELS, AND ADVENTURES. 


1. THE BIBLE IN SPAIN. By Georgb 
Borrow. 3s. 6 d . 


2. THE GIPSIES OF SPAIN. By 
George Borrow. 3s. 6d. 

3 & 4. JOURNALS IN INDIA. By 
Bishop Heber. 2 Vols. 7s. 

5. TRAVELS IN THE HOLY LAND. 

By Irby and Mangi.es. 2s. 

6. MOROCCO AND THE MOORS. By 

J. Drummond Hay. 23. 

7. LETTERS FROM THE BALTIC. By 

a Lady. 2s. 

8. SKETCHES OF NEW SOUTH 

WALES. By Mrs. Meredith. 2s. 

9. THE NEGROES OF THE WEST 

INDIES. By M. G. Lewis. 2s. 

10. SKETCHES OF PERSIA. By Sir 

John Malcolm. 3s. 6 d . 

11. FATHER RIPA’S RESIDENCE AT 

THE COURT OF PEKIN. 2s. 

12 & 33. TYPEE AND OMOO j or, the 
South Sea Islanders. By Her¬ 
mann Melville. 2 Vols. 7s. 


14. MISSIONARY LIFE IN CANADA. 

By Rev. J. Abbott. 2s. 

15. LETTERS FROM MADRAS. By a 

Lady. 2s. 

16. HIGHLAND SPORTS. By Charles 

St.John. 2 s . Gd. 

17. PAMPAS JOURNEYS. By Sir F. B. 

Head. 2s. 

IS. GATHERINGS FROM SPAIN. By 
Richard Ford. 3s. Gd. 

19. THE RIVER AMAZON. By W H 

Edwards. 2s. 

20. MANNERS & CUSTOMS OF INDIA. 

By Rev. C. Acland. 2s. 

21. ADVENTURES IN MEXICO. By 

G. F. Ruxton. 3s. Gd. 

22. PORTUGAL AND GALLICIA. By 

Lord Carnarvon. 3s. 6d. 

23. BUSH LIFE IN AUSTRALIA. By 

Rev. H. W. Haygarth. 2s. 

24. THE LIBYAN DESERT. By Bayle 

St. John. 2s. 

25. LETTERS FROM SIERRA LEONE 

By a Lady. 3s. 6d. 


*** Each uork may be had separately. 


JOHN MURRAY, 

January, 1S70. 


ALBEMARLE STREET. 

































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